Episode Transcript
Available transcripts are automatically generated. Complete accuracy is not guaranteed.
(00:01):
Welcome to the Dog Help Podcast, proudly sponsored by Positive Improvement and hosted by Christy Kirby Barron.
As a certified dog behavior consultant, I'm eager to share my extensive experience and expertise to help you with all of your dog training needs.
From tackling common issues to diving deep into the mysteries behind dog behavior, I'm confident I can help provide you with the solutions you need.
(00:24):
So don't hesitate to hit the subscribe button and join me on this exciting journey of discovery.
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Hello, friends and welcome back.
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Life has been so busy lately.
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I've been judging AKC scent work competitions, which is as thrilling as it sounds.
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And it mimics a drug dog work, drug, dog bomb, dog detection, sniffing type activities.
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Our dogs search for certain essential oils instead of drugs or bombs, but the principle is kind of the same.
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They love it.
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Of course, anytime you're doing something with your dog that you both enjoy.
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It's a great time.
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We're also preparing for a bunch of adorable long hair/ dachsund.
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puppies.
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They're due to be born soon and there'll be down here in my office./
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So in future podcasts, you may hear some little squeaking in the background.
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I really can't wait for those babies as you get here.
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And I'll promise there will be baby pictures and videos.
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Uh, they really will be coming to YouTube soon.
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And also I have a puppy cam.
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So a plan to capture some cute moments just to brighten your day and just to put a smile on your face.
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And I have to tell you though, one other thing.
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I've recorded this episode about three times.
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And I got a new, editing software.
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And it's a learning curve.
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So even though it is so much better, I managed to goof up twice have to delete and rerecord because somehow I had it jumbled and I can't even describe the way that I made that.
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And impossible mess, but we are finally here.
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I am still doing podcasts.
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So.
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Today's topic.
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Is let's tackle a common but harrowing experience and that's your dog dashing out the door.
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It never happens at a good time.
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Does it? It's always when we're terribly late for something or it's pouring rain, but it's never at a good time.
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Whether your dog is heading towards danger or you're frantically calling their name in a situation.
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Uh, we, we all like to avoid that.
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So that's what we're going to talk about today.
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Some different ways that you can help this problem.
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one is to teach your dog to wait to go out of her front door and to come to you when you call them those skills are absolutely invaluable, but there are other things too, that can help a great deal.
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knowing why dogs are escaping is the key.
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To understanding their motives.
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And that's our first step in changing the behavior.
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So, have you ever been told you can't do something like you've been told you can't have something that makes you want to do even more? Doesn't it? It becomes a proverbial forbidden fruit.
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It's like going on a diet and craving all this stuff.
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You don't usually eat because it's on the list of things you can't have.
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Like, I don't like dark chocolate, but I promise you if I'm trying to cut out sweets and I see a piece of dark chocolate, I just start craving it.
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Ordinarily.
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I'll look at that.
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And I'm like, you.
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Uh, but when it becomes a forbidden fruit, I would definitely eat that chocolate.
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And for our dogs, the urge to explore beyond the door is akin to a forbidden fruit.
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They see you come and go through the door.
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They see other people or animals.
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There are a window or a fence, but they're prevented from going out there.
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And that causes the whole front yard area to be basically a forbidden fruit or forbidden zone.
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So they start looking for ways to escape so they can go explore.
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To counter this it's absolutely vital that we consider our dog's natural instincts and incorporate them into a routine that safely allows them to act on those instincts.
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In a way more safe and controlled manner.
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What I mean is dogs need time to just be a dog out there? Without it being such a huge deal.
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Often, we only allow the dogs out in the front yard when they're being put in a car to go somewhere.
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Or we go out the front door.
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Uh, into the front yard as a transition place to a longer walk, but your front yard can be a destination.
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Yeah, maybe that could be the dog version of a staycation.
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But anyway, dogs actually can do a lot in the front yard without having to go on longer walks and they still find that enriching.
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If you have a dog that's been restricted from physical exercise, for example, sometimes allowing them to just hang out in the front yard or a side yard is fabulous for them.
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That allows them calm, controlled explorations.
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And it can translate those areas from a forbidden zone to just another familiar place.
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So it's kind of like your house.
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They just sort of follow you from room to room and it's no big deal because it's just a familiar place and the front yard can be an extension of that./
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If they're not trying so hard to come up with ways to find opportunities to escape.
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Then the problem just sort of diffuses somewhat.
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When I say let him out there, I am absolutely not telling you to let them out.
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With no color, no leash that that's absolutely not safe.
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So.
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Taking them out needs to be controlled.
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But having them out there can be very important.
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Sniffing forging for treats licking, chewing.
These are all self-soothing things that dogs do.
It's just part of their natural instincts.
So think about those toddler with a thumb in the mouth.
These are things, dogs do their calming and soothing.
And if you give the dogs an opportunity to go out on the front yard.
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And do what dogs tend to do.
I call it dogging.
It's just part of being a dog.
And if you let them do those kinds of things in the front yard, then it greatly reduces their impulse to just bolt out that door to get there.
And I can't stress this enough.
Safety.
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I always worry.
When I give advice that someone will forget to take things.
Into account think things through before trying them there are exceptions sometimes.
Or things have to be changed in order for everyone to be safe.
And that means before you decide to try this advice.
And take your dog to the front yard.
(07:18):
You need a plan.
You need a plan out and think it through before you just start.
You need to decide what type of collar or harness and leash.
You plan to use, especially with a wide variety of dog breeds and their unique needs.
Four stents brachiocephalic dogs.
You know, those are the ones with a little smooshed in faces, like pug sheets, whose bulldogs they generally should wear a harness to avoid respiratory issues.
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That's will tell you that they can have a predisposition or they're predisposed to have breathing issues.
And they generally say don't put things around their neck.
That's going to make them choke or restrict their breathing in any way.
So big dogs are a little harder to control on harness, and sometimes that can allow them to just jerk you around.
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That's not safe either.
Leashes matter.
I tend to not like to use flexi or retractable leashes though, for a lot of reasons.
But first the dog learns to get where he wants to go by pulling.
And even if he's not polling, there's still tension on the line.
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If you drop one of those flexi leashes, it will chase the dog.
Sometimes that can frighten them.
But now you have a dog that was running down the road with a leash, attacking them from behind.
That's definitely not the experience we want to have.
So I like to give the dogs little more than just a six foot leash if possible, because I really want them to be able to engage in those natural activities like sniffing foraging around, rolling on the grass.
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And it's harder on a short leash, a regular six foot leash.
But we call these long training lawns and they're just long leashes.
They come in many different sizes, any or lengths anywhere from 10 to 16 to 20 or 50 feet up to a hundred feet.
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Super easy to get.
You're going to order them from online sources in generally most pet stores have long training leashes.
But you want them to have a leash? That's a long enough to allow them a little freedom to move around, but not so much that they take off and jerky down or hurt themselves.
So smaller dogs are a little easier.
They can't quite get up there running start before you can slow them down a little before they hit the end of the line.
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But if you have a great Dane or a massive or a Rottweiler and you give them a 50 foot line and they take off, most people are going to have some difficulty slowing them down.
Before they hit the end of that line.
And furthermore, they could be big enough.
To drag you, if you don't let go.
So for a larger dog, it may be better to have a little bit shorter lawn.
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If you have a bigger dog, just plan it out.
Just kinda know what your dog is physically capable of and what you are physically capable of and make a plan.
Don't just open the door and say, Hey, we're going to try this.
Think it through decide what's gonna work for your situation.
Not every harness fits every dog or every situation and not every color, not every length of leash.
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Uh, so consulting with our trainer is crucial for addressing your specific needs.
I'm not going to get into all the aspects of equipment.
But just know that I'm big on safety.
So equipment is an integral part of being safe in these activities.
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So I did want to mention it.
Because when you're dealing with Harding dogs are often trying to escape.
And that can be.
Dangerous.
In my mind, think about the racetracks, where you see the cars and they're doing burnouts in there.
Getting up to the start line and the light turns green, like they're just ongo the engines.
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Light turns green and they take off and they fly.
It's kind of what it reminds me.
When a dog sees an opportunity to fly out the door and they think they're going to get somewhere, they'll do burnouts and fly out their door and that can be inherently dangerous.
So plan it out.
Don't leave it to chance.
So.
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Making that for bins.
Um, a familiar place is the first piece of that puzzle.
Second is teaching the dog door and gate manners, which require consistency and patience.
I really cannot express how vital it is to be both consistent and patient.
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We need to create a calm exit routine where your dog just learns to wait and move through doors and gates calmly.
And not take an open door as a cue for an exhilarating escape.
It's so hard to calm them back down.
Once they've gotten, worked up and over the top and you've all seen it, like they can't follow commands.
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You can't get their attention.
You call their name.
They can't sit.
They forget everything.
They, they just can't function when they get wild and hyper and excited.
So keeping them calm before and during the exit to the front yard helps maintain that level of safety and control.
It also sets the stage for impulse control.
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So as they learn to control themselves and remain calm and not act wildly on impulses, then doing calming activities in the yard, instead of having a free for all comes easier./
If a dog has learned to wait every time the door is open, either a gate is open to go outside of a fence area or wait to go out of a garage door.
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In case the garage is open.
Or anywhere that's a door except for the one that they go and come naturally in a fenced area.
If they are used to waiting.
Before heading out of that door.
Then their natural impulse is if you've created that habit.
Is the sit and wait.
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Until you release them to come out.
And again, that's where that consistency comes in.
If sometimes you have them wait, and sometimes you just open the door and let them out.
It's inconsistent and it can be creating the, the wrong.
Habits and the wrong message that you want to send your dog.
(13:48):
So having them wait Asian every time.
Come out when they are released with our release word.
And then coming out and doing some self soothing activities that are calming in the front yard.
Just all work together.
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It's like a recipe.
Every piece of this puzzle of door darning is like an ingredient for a recipe.
Dogs naturally liked to slip and lick and chew, shred.
Those are all self soothing activities.
And if you haven't listened to the podcast on the destructive dogs, go back and give that a listen.
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We talked about it in there and some of the root causes for destruction, they kind of go hand in hand and they're similar.
Or have very similar root causes as dogs darting out the door.
So give that up and subs and love.
Uh, listen to that and it just helps make this one make more sense.
So.
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Again, sniffing.
Looking around chewing on the things.
Those are self-soothing activities, and you can think of a toddler with a thumb in the mouth.
They're doing things that are boredom busters.
So letting your dog out in the front yard and then toss and treats in the yard to help them learn to snuffle around and find, uh, YX uh, explore.
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Find the treats.
It really helps.
I've had clients who have contacted me after we've done these types of lessons.
On DOR darting and waiting at doors in front door manners.
I've had several who contacted me later and told me that this training paid off.
Either a gate got left, open or door, wasn't closed all the way.
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And instead of the dog, Darting out, running away.
They're hanging around the front yard, sniffing around, rolling in the grass.
And the owner was able to say, Hey, let's go inside.
And the dog happily got up and walked back in the house and it's because they had a chance to be there.
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It's now a familiar place.
It's not such a big deal.
We have not only allowed them to go out there, but we've had them go out there and do calming activities.
Not like racing around doing zoomies, but having them snuffle around and doing these calming things, rolling in their grass.
And it becomes just a mindset.
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It's a way to teach a mindset that when you go out, you're calm.
It's good.
And that's a huge piece of the puzzle.
Like I cannot explain how big a portion of running away.
That is just a forbidden fruit kind of thing.
So the third thing to know is that chasing them can make the whole situation.
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Once they've gotten out so much worse.
Not only have they escaped, but you chasing after them is now adding more speed, more intensity, more emotional chaos.
Basically just adding fuel to the fire.
It's better to run away from them and have them chase you back to the house.
But sometimes they are so intent on ignoring you and doing what they want, that they don't notice you're running away from them.
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Loring and back with something they love like a car ride or a treat or anything they know to be fun, can be an option.
But again, once they're loose, having a grand time is really hard to get them to focus on anything you say.
So.
Having a reliable come one called command.
Is invaluable in these situations and is often the reason why people want to teach their dog to come when called in the first place.
(17:38):
They've experienced something where they wanted the dog to come and there.
Calling the dog's name.
They're saying calm, the dog.
Doesn't come.
That's when they often reach out and say, I need my dog to come to me.
When I call them, we all know that not coming when called us such a dangerous thing.
And if your dog doesn't come when called and they don't listen when you're trying to get them, uh, to lure them back to the house or run away from them.
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That's the one we start chasing them.
And we know it's making it worse, but what other choice do we have? So.
It's very important at this point.
To have planned for this type of issue.
There's an old saying that if you're not planning for success, then you are planning for failure.
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And that's kind of, what's going to happen here.
If you do not teach your dog to come when called before, you need them to come when called in this situation.
You're planning for failure.
It is.
You're going to be lucky.
If it works out for you in a way that does not include chasing.
And begging the dog to come back.
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One we're teaching this in class and I'm trying to help people work through this.
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One of the hardest stages is to teach the dog to come in the presence of distractions.
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And that's also.
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Y what you learn in class doesn't easily translate to having your dog come to you when they get loose.
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Because in class, it's on leash it's controlled and when they get loose, it's uncontrolled.
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So you need to prepare for this.
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Don't just do a little bit on a six foot leash and think, okay, my dog comes to me.
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No, you've absolutely got to overcome all these distractions.
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And you need to work at it until you can.
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Taking away that forbidden zone that forbidden fruit and all the allure of that is so important.
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It's like a sky high level distraction, and your dog really has a difficult time leaving such a valuable opportunity.
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Especially when you're going to turn around and make them come back inside.
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And they're going to lose all that freedom.
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So they don't want to do it.
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And you know, if you think about it, In some ways you really can't blame them.
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So making the yard more familiar and less enticing.
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Making an area, uh, to relax and is going to significantly increase your dog's ability to, to focus on you.
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And to come when you call them, when they're out there.
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It's something you need to practice for though.
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Don't wait until your dog has already gotten in the habit of slipping out the door and racing away.
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At that point, it's really hard to undo that because the fun in that is just so tremendous.
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So do yourself a favor.
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Control.
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The situation to prevent the dog from darting out the door until you have all your ducks in a row and you have things planned out.
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Then you can work on this in a structured way.
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That will give you.
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So much more in a way of control and peace of mind.
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Everybody.
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I can't say this enough.
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Work with our trainer.
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Uh, a professional trainer with our personalized advice strategies.
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Everybody wants to try things by themselves.
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Listen to people.
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Listen to podcasts, watch videos, read books, and then just go do it.
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And they don't understand why it doesn't work.
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These are never a substitute for hiring a trainer.
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It just kind of gives you some ideas of what's going on with the dogs and why these things may be occurring.
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But.
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It's never a substitute for a trainer./
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So I said that each piece of this is kind of like a recipe.
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And it really is, this is, I guess this episode really is a recipe on how to handle.
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Door darting.
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So.
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If I were writing out this recipe, it would look like the ingredients would be.
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Um, first ingredient.
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Micah training plan.
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Like don't just go off.
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Half-cocked make a training plan.
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plan for success.
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Two second ingredient.
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Would be to choose your equipment.
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And to think about safety.
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Three would be spending time.
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Out there making it not a forbidden fruit.
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Four would be teaching obedience cues like weight com.
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So that you have an exit strategy, or a contingency.
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If they do get out, you can call them to you.
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But really making the whole thing calmer.
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going out.
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You need to spend time doing calming activities once you're out there.
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That's another huge ingredient.
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You have got to hire a trainer.
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Patients.
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Is another ingredient and consistency is huge.
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So, these are kind of all of our ingredients that need to be mixed together.
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You can really do a lot just by spending time with your dog.
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It doesn't have to be this horrible training experience with the jerk on them.
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yelling at them, punishing them, trying to catch them.
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It literally can be just spending time with your dog doing relaxing activities in the front yard.
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That will help it go.
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A long ways toward not darting out the door.
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And running down the street and the ability to get them to just come back inside easily.
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If they do get out.
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So I hope you guys have enjoyed this.
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This has been kind of fun for me.
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people always want to have a command to make the dog stop doing something without realizing that for most things, you have to deal with the environment too.
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It's not just a common one called is going to fix the problem.
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Wait is going to fix the problem.
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You also have to take into account all the other factors, motivating the dog.
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And look at what their natural.
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Instincts and their natural behaviors are.
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And once you take all of that into account.
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Then you can follow a recipe.
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And Nick's at all up.
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To have a.
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End product of a dog that doesn't have a door darning problem who will come back when, when they do get out.
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And it will save you a lot of headache and fear.
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Late for work.
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Uh, all the things.
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So again, if you have not already subscribed to the podcast, be checking out the YouTube account at Christy Barron on YouTube.
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And we will.
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Have all kinds of fun things coming up.
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Uh, I keep saying that, but I promise you I'm going to be stuck at home on house arrest.
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Um, playing with puppies.
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And that will give me more time to take pictures of puppies and put them on YouTube.
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So until next time.
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Thanks for joining.