Mike Yardley: Lapping up the Causeway Coast, Northern Ireland - Saturday Morning with Jack Tame

Who doesn’t love a great roadie? Self-drive adventures rank highly in my pantheon of golden travel experiences and Northern Ireland’s Causeway Coast touring route is a show-stopper. Bookended by Derry~Londonderry and Belfast Lough, this sublime 185km drive threads together a stirring mosaic of fishing villages, secluded beaches, wondrous rock formations, rugged coastlines, crumbling castles, storied history and mouth-watering scenery.

Pointing the car northeast from Derry~Londonderry, I began tracing the nooks and crannies of Northern Ireland’s theatrical coastline by stopping off at Mussenden Temple. Dramatically perched on a cliff lording over Downhill Beach, this flamboyant folly was constructed in 1785 - inspired by the Temple of Vesta, near Rome. This circular stone temple served as a library and retreat for the eccentric Earl of Bristol who was also the Bishop of Derry (Earl Bishop), along with enormous views over the Atlantic Ocean. The setting is lip-smacking, wrapped in glorious estate gardens which you can explore on the cliff-edge walk, along with the ruins of the Earl Bishop’s mansion, Downhill House.

Fancy a beach layover? The neighbouring seaside resort towns of Portstewart and Portrush are blessed with sprawling blonde-sand beaches, backed my muscular limestone cliffs. Portrush is the bigger, brasher resort with an abundance of souvenir shops and amusement arcades like Curry’s Fun Park. There’s a faded glory feel to this seaside spot, exuding a retro appeal, in a similar vein to Blackpool or Bournemouth. But it’s those drop-dead-gorgeous beaches and turquoise waters that really steal the show.

Liberally strung along the Causeway Coast, strategically located look-out points cater to roadtrippers eager to get snap-happy and drink in the panoramic views. Few spots command greater affection than the Dunluce Castle look-out. It’s a riveting perch to dreamily gaze across the crumbling castle ruins, clinging to the cliff, high above the churning ocean on a wind-walloped basalt outcrop. This medieval stronghold of the MacDonnell clan featured regularly on Game of Thrones. The MacDonnell Clan of Antrim still technically own it, even though the castle fell into disrepair 300 years ago. You can access it via the bridge which connects it to the mainland. Like many Irish castles, Dunluce has a fine bit of legend attached to it. It’s said that on a stormy night back in 1639, part of the castle’s kitchen fell into the icy water below. Apparently, only the kitchen boy survived, as he managed to tuck himself away in a safe corner of the room.

If set-jetting is your bag, there’s a host of fantastical shooting locations for Thrones fans to scout out in Northern Ireland, around the Causeway Coast. Just inland in Ballymoney, I jaunted to The Dark Hedges. Falling victim to over-tourism, stringent traffic and parking restrictions are now in place. Go early in the morning to dodge the hordes. Nor did I see

The Dark Hedges. Photo / Mike Yardley 

The legendary ghost, the Grey Lady, a spectral figure said to drift silently between the ancient beech trees. This iconic avenue of gnarly, intertwined beech trees was planted in the 18th century by the Stuart family to create a grand entrance to their estate, Gracehill House. It’s an ethereal landscape which of course became globally famed after appearing as Kingsroad on Game of Thrones. Sadly, over a dozen of these trees have been lost in recent storms and a heritage trust has been formed to try and keep the remaining 80 trees alive, given they are reaching the end of their natural lives.

Heading back to the ocean, the Causeway Coast earns its name from a primordial geological marvel that may well prove to be your road-tripping highlight. Yes, the Giant’s Causeway. Forged 60 million years ago when molten lava cooled quickly in the ocean water and contracted into crystallised basalt pillars, it is a head-spinning volcanic formation. The spectacle is compelling, a procession of 40,000 basalt hexagonal blocks and columns, reaching out into the ocean, like primal pistons thrusting out of the earth. You can take your chances and hop-scotch or clamber your way across these inter-locking formations, as crashing waves thunder in. The spectacle is best enjoyed at low-tide, revealing more and more of these basalt columns.

Carrick-a-Rede rope bridge. Photo / Mike Yardley

I enjoyed a night in the charismatic village of Bushmills, just minutes from the Giant’s Causeway. Sip on a dram from the world’s oldest licensed distillery. Old Bushmills Distillery started manufacturing after a grant from King James 1 in 1608. Over 400 years later, they're still making single-malt whiskey here, using Irish barley and the unique water from their own stream too, spilling out of the River Bush which flows over basalt rock. Jamesons is the No.1 selling Irish whiskey. Like Jamesons, Bushmills is tripl