In this episode, Maison François founder Francois O’Neill shares what it really takes to keep restaurants thriving amid rising costs, changing diners, and constant uncertainty. From the realities of staffing and margins to the return of brasserie theatre — foie gras “burgers,” dessert trolleys, and caviar-topped chicken nuggets included — Francois reveals how optimism, generosity, and beautiful chaos keep his world turning.
Beyond the food, Francois is candid about the realities of running a restaurant today — the impossible margins, soaring ingredient costs, and the new normal of 35% staff overheads. But his optimism shines through as he explains how Maison François has weathered every storm: through generosity, energy, and human connection. He takes us from the flickering lights of Brasserie St Quentin, where a towering French chef named Marcel used to eat from the stockpot, to today’s buzzing St James’s dining rooms where corner booths, dessert trolleys, and champagne carts help guests “order with their eyes.” It’s a love letter to old-school glamour made relevant again — and a reminder that theatre and warmth are as vital as the food itself.
In a wide-ranging conversation, we hear about the breakfast hustle that went from one table to 200 covers, the behind-the-scenes of Frank’s, his quietly brilliant Borough Market venture, and the power of saying yes to single diners. Francois opens up about the grind and the gratitude — from crisis-era reopenings to future plans at Frieze London, and from late-night service lessons to the Brazilian beach barbecue that still defines his idea of heaven. It’s rich, funny, and full of texture — a portrait of a restaurateur who still believes in beauty, hospitality, and a good bit of butter.
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