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In this episode, we have two-time world surfing champion Tom Carroll sharing insights on surf technique, wave reading, and building a relationship with the ocean. He talks about the value in surfing different conditions, good and bad, the delicate balance between intuition and analytical thinking, and the benefits of staying physically fit and having proper equipment for maintaining performance, especially as you get older. He also offers advice for younger surfers and shares details on his upcoming retreats focused on breathwork for surfers.
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Chapters
00:00 Introduction: The Ocean as a Teacher 00:51 Paddle Power and the Basis Trainer 01:52 Framing the Conversation: Surfing, Technique and Longevity 02:40 Building Wave Knowledge Over a Lifetime 05:27 Fear in Surfing and Early Experiences 07:58 Surf Everything: Learning in All Conditions 10:35 Equipment Evolution and Staying Curious 14:24 Wave Reading: Intuition vs Analysis 18:47 Developing a Mental Map of Waves 23:19 Observing and Learning from Other Surfers 25:03 Drills: Finding the Perfect Line 29:55 The Roundhouse Cutback Drill 32:25 Favorite Boards for Crappy Waves 37:22 Training for Longevity and Recovery 42:21 Final Reflections and Upcoming Retreats
Subscribe for more interviews with pro surfers, coaches, shapers, and everyday surfers like Tom Carroll, Zeke Lau, Victor Bernardo, Matt Parker of Album Surf, Matt Meola, Ryan Lovelace, Eric Arakawa, Noel Salas of Surf n Show, Parker Coffin, Dane Gudauskas, Kassia Meador, Clayton of Ombe Surf, Dylan Lightfoot, Derek Dunfee, Magnum Martinez, and more!
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