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February 19, 2025 14 mins
Take an immersive journey through the Guadeloupe Islands in this special Black History Month episode. Join host Darley Newman and local guides on an exciting island-hopping adventure, discovering the rich culture, delectable cuisine, hidden travel gems, and captivating history of this French Caribbean destination. Venture to the island of Les Saintes to explore the bustling markets of Terre-de-Haut. Enjoy views at Fort Napoléon and unwind on the pristine white sands of Pompierre Beach. Savor fresh seafood and hear about restaurants you might like to experience like Au Bon Vivre.

On the island of Basse-Terre, indulge in a wellness escape at Spa Tendacayou, where Darley shares what it’s like to try a unique fish pedicure. Off the coast, go snorkeling and scuba diving at La Reserve Cousteau, a protected area with biological diversity and a vibrant marine ecosystem.

Get expert tips on where to stay and the best times to visit the Guadeloupe Islands from Audrey Yacou, PR and Marketing Officer for the Guadeloupe Islands Tourism Board. Learn about the upcoming Saint-Georges International Music Festival, which showcases performances honoring the legacy of Saint-Georges and celebrating diversity in classical music. Pack your swimsuit and love of learning on an adventure in the French Caribbean!
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Episode Transcript

Available transcripts are automatically generated. Complete accuracy is not guaranteed.
(00:00):
Where can you snorkel in a protected preserve teeming with tropical fish?

(00:03):
Dine on passionate pastries? To be enjoyed without moderation. We love the pastries.
Get a fish pedicure? They're getting my ankles too.
And attended a music festival paying tribute to a trailblazer? He influenced great composers
like Motzart, and he was born in Guadeloupe. It's Black History Month and in this second podcast
on the Guadeloupe Islands, we're island hopping to not only learn about the dazzling beaches and

(00:28):
bays, but to take you to sites and share experiences that showcase the islands' heritage and history.
This podcast is immersive, taking you on location to experience the islands,
and also to share practical tips to get you there for real. It's the Travels with Darley podcast,
where traveling with the locals brings you an authentic take on a destination.

(00:57):
The Guadeloupe Islands are part of the Lesser Antilles, an arc of small islands extending
from the Virgin Islands to Trinidad and Tobago, and including Martinique and Antigua,
among other Caribbean island destinations. You can fly to one of the main islands,
Grande-Terre, or take a boat or ferry to explore this lush, geographically diverse archipelago,

(01:20):
where beaches nature, rum and culture are some of the biggest draws for travelers.
Get ready to island hop, discovering Guadeloupe's diverse islands of Grande-Terre,
Les Saintes, Basse-Terre, and Marie-Galante. To get to our first destination, the Island of Les Saintes,
we'll be taking a ferry from Trois-Rivières, not far from the capital city of Basse-Terre on the island

(01:42):
of Basse-Terre. On route, I'm stopping by the Archaeological Gardens of Engraved Rocks,
a botanical garden and historic monument with petroglyphs dating back to the 4th century.
Left on volcanic rocks, these were created by the Arawak Indians, the first recorded
inhabitants of the Guadeloupe Islands. This is a great place to learn and pay tribute to the

(02:06):
island's rich heritage. Les Saintes, which has been dubbed the Capri of the Caribbean,
takes about a half hour to reach by ferry from Trois-Rivières. Les Saintes Bay has been listed by UNESCO as
one of the most beautiful bays in the world. Right off the ferry and I'm in the bustling village of
Terre-de-Haut, on the island of Terre-de-Haut, the largest island in the Les Saintes archipelago. I'm taking a walk

(02:32):
with a Guadeloupean local, Sandra Venite, and starting on the village's main shopping street.
So are you are you a shopper, Darley? I am, I can definitely do some shopping here.
So you're definitely in the right place. In Les Saintes, it's a great shopping destination, so you're
gonna find a lot of nice jewelry, handmade jewelry. You're gonna find a lot of clothing in

(02:54):
Madras, which is our traditional fabric. The main colors in the archipelago is white and blue.
So always trying to coordinate with the natural elements, but blue and white and the sea.
So the sea is very prevalent. Look at all the blues that we have here. Oh, it's beautiful.
So it's very like the landmarks of the archipelago of Les Saintes.
And what is life like for people that live here in Les Saintes? 'Cause there's not that many people

(03:16):
on the island, right? No, it's only in Terre-de-Haut, you only have two thousand inhabitants in Terre-de-Bas
by it only like one thousand, so total of like three thousand people. So it's a very small population.
Terre-de-Haut, it's the only city in Terre-de-Haut, like the name of the island is the name of the city.
So those people will basically live on the fishing industry.
The hilly and dry climate in Les Saintes was not optimal for agriculture.

(03:40):
Thus unlike other islands in the Guadeloupe archipelago, sugarcane plantations did not
develop here, and there were few enslaved peoples brought over to Les Saintes.
Instead, the island's population has historically depended on fishing for survival
and most recently tourism. While many people take ferries over to the island,

(04:00):
others sail in while cruising through the Guadeloupe Islands and the rest of the Caribbean.
We're going to walk up to the Fort Napoleon and you will see one of the most beautiful
bays in the world. I can't wait to see your face when you look at that view.
Oh, I can't wait. Let's go.
Yes. A trip up to Fort Napoleon is a must-do when you're visiting Les Saintes.
Wow, this is impressive.
You will never see a lot of battles going on here. It was more like a defensive fort.

(04:24):
With imposing stone walls in a strategic position located high on a bluff,
a trip to the top is worth it for a few reasons, most importantly, being postcard worthy views.
This is definitely the best place to take in these views.
Yes, you cannot beat that view. I think everybody just want to jump into the bay. Beautiful. Breathtaking.
It's really beautiful.
Back in the village, it's time to enjoy some seafood for which Les Saintes is so well-known.

(04:51):
All right, so now we're gonna have lunch at Au Bon Vivre, which is one of the best restaurants in
Les Saintes. The setting is laid back and island cool, making you want to relax and feast on one of
the multi-course meals for which Au Bon Vivre is so well-known.
In the Guadeloupe Islands, we just love to eat, so you're gonna find out why in a minute.
Just trust me on this.
Okay, my mouth is watering.

(05:12):
Oh, la la! Merci, chef.
The chef has created a medley with fish tartar with coconut milk and lemon,
smoked marlin with basil, pesto and mascarpone cheese on French bread
crostini, and shrimp profiteroles topped with escargot butter.
Mmm. It's good. No, it's really good.

(05:36):
It's really light, a little bit of spice.
Mm-hmm, definitely a mix of the French and an island cuisine.
Definitely. So you see how fresh the product are, you can really feel the product,
so it's all about that here.
Yeah, I could just sit here all day and eat.
Welcome to the Guadeloupe Islands.
And on that note, it's time for dessert.

(05:58):
You cannot leave Les Saintes without having the tourment d'amour.
Ooh, what is that? Ooh, ooh! That sounds interesting.
It's a specialty that they only do in Les Saintes.
You can only find this pastry in Les Saintes.
So it's kind of a spongy coconut cake filled with a coconut jam
and with a lot of spices.
If you ask the ladies about the recipes, they won't tell you because it's really a secret.

(06:22):
Oh, interesting.
A secret dessert.
Yes, secret dessert.
That works.
The not so secret location to find these pastries
is right by the docks and we buy a few.
Merci.
Merci beaucoup.
Yeah.
Very colorful.
We call them the tourment d'amour because you know,
tourment d'amour means a torment of love, of course,

(06:43):
because we're in the French Caribbean, so some love have to be, you know, in there.
A pastry with passion.
Yes.
To be enjoyed without moderation.
Okay, let's go.
Mm, it's good.
It's got a nice crunch on the outside.
Very soft on the inside.
Yeah.
Nice.
It's nice, huh?
I'm sure you're aware.
Oh, the love.
Yes!
We love the pastries.

(07:04):
[laughs]
A trip to Les Saintes wouldn't be complete without stopping by one of its beaches.
Not far from downtown, about a 15-minute walk,
or a shorter motor scooter ride,
is one of the most popular, Pompierre Beach.
Called one of the best beaches in the Guadeloupe

(07:25):
Islands and quintessential Caribbean,
white sand is shaded by tall coconut trees sprinkled across
this moon-shaped calm lagoon.
To continue my theme of relaxation,
I'm heading to an eco-spa on Basse-Terre.
Welcome to Spa Tendacayou.
Let's get changed.

(07:45):
Okay.
The spa and lodge were built by a husband and wife team
who dreamt of a treehouse getaway
and combined their passions and skills in art and carpentry
to form this rainforest oasis,
built with local materials to blend in with the environment.
Guests can take a wellness escape here, staying in bungalows
and enjoying ocean views while they undergo a variety of treatments.

(08:08):
Though many people come for massages and meditations,
I’ve decided to try something I never thought I would.
We’re going to try the fish pedicure,
so just have to sit down, put your feet in the water,
and they're going to come and eat everything on your feet,
dead cells, imperfections.
It’s going to tickle a little bit at the beginning,
but then it’s going to be really relaxing.

(08:29):
Where are these fish from?
These are fishes that you find in the rivers here in Guadeloupe.
Okay. Huh!
Ahhh! They're getting my ankles, too!
But it doesn't hurt, right.
No, it tickles.
How long is recommended?

(08:54):
About 10, 15 minutes.
That’s a lot of dead skin.
Well, yeah, you have the first two minutes that are really hard,
but then it's quite relaxing.
Do a lot of people do this?
Some people can't do it at all.
It's in their head, the fact that fishes come and eat their dead cells.
It's just not gonna happen.
It's more natural than any product that you can use for any foot scrub.

(09:16):
They're really going at my one ankle.
What's going on?
What's going on with that?
I've been hiking volcanoes, I've been on the beach.
These fish have got their work cut out for them.
They feel it.
They feel it.
They will not be hungry later on today.
After a few minutes, I do settle in,
though on my next trip to this spa,
I might opt for the massage instead,

(09:38):
depending on how adventurous I'm feeling.
My final tip on the Guadeloupe Islands
for this podcast, at least,
is another reason people travel here,
snorkeling and scuba diving.
The famous underwater explorer, Jacques Cousteau,
called the Pigeon Islands off the coast of Basse-Terre,

(10:01):
one of the world's top dive areas
and encouraged their conservation.
At only a 10 or 15 minute boat ride from the coast,
La Reserve Cousteau is accessible for a short trip.
It's also a good place to snorkel,
because of its shallow waters,
where sponges, coral, colorful tropical fish

(10:21):
and sea turtles reside.
It's this rich environment that Cousteau highlighted
while filming “The Silent World,”
the cinematic version of his 1953 book.
Whether you snorkel or dive here,
you're sure to be immersed in the biological diversity
that helped this spot gain protection.
If you're wondering when to go to the Guadeloupe Islands,

(10:50):
again, the high season is December to April,
but there are events year round.
You might want to check one out in November, coming up this year.
Audrey Yacou with the Guadeloupe Islands Tourism Board
fills us in on a special festival happening November 2025
that brings together world-class musicians and artists from around the world.

(11:13):
It's the Chevalier de Saint-Georges, also known as Joseph Bologne,
he was an 18th century composer, violinist,
fencer, a true Renaissance man.
He also was an exceptional military leader at the time of the French Revolution,
but his true love was really music.
He influenced great composers like Mozart.
And he was born in Guadeloupe, and Saint-Georges became a trailblazer,

(11:35):
excelling in music, and breaking barriers in European society at a time when
opportunities for people of color were almost nonexistent.
His compositions are timeless and remain a significant part of the classical music history.
Guadeloupe hosts the Saint-Georges International Music Festival
every four-year, one of the most prestigious music festivals in the Caribbean.

(11:57):
It actually stands out as a unique emblem for diversity in the classical music world.
This year will be celebrating the 288th birthday of Saint-Georges
with performances by the talented tenor who sang the French national anthem
at the Paris Olympics.
The festival will celebrate the enduring legacy of Saint-Georges,
and there will be rum.

(12:19):
Joseph Bologne, the Chevalier de Saint-Georges, also has another unique connection to Guadeloupe's culture,
which is rum.
His family is historically linked to the Bologne estates, the rum Bologne Distillery
and since its Black History Month, and we are already talking about rum,
I also wanted to highlight another important story in Guadeloupe's rum heritage,

(12:41):
the Papa Rouyo Distillery.
And what makes this distillery so special is that it's black-owned,
and which is a rare and powerful statement in an industry with deep colonial roots.
So where should you stay during these special events,
traveling to the Guadeloupe Islands?
Located in Bouillante, you will find Les Galets Rouges.
It's an adult only hotel. In the city of Pointe-a-Pitre,

(13:02):
you also have the hotel called Maison Victoire.
This is truly a charming boutique hotel that captures the essence of
Guadeloupe's culture and history.
It's perfect for those who want to stay right in the center of the action and immerse
themselves in the vibrant city life.
And also in Le Gosier you're going to find Arawak Hotel,

(13:23):
another wonderful black-owned option offering a more relaxed coastal vibe.
Located right by the beach, it's a favorite for visitors looking to unwind
in a comfortable and family-friendly environment.
The hotel has a long history in the community
and the owners have worked hard to maintain its legacy.
while offering a modern experience.

(13:44):
Whatever islands you hop to here, you'll find rich experiences combining great food,
culture, history, and beauty.
Need more intel on the Guadeloupe Islands?
Listen to my previous podcast, and watch my PBS episodes on the Guadeloupe Islands,
also now on Amazon Prime.
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