December 6, 2025 • 32 mins
Dean answers all your calls!
Today, a question about how to best preserve the wood outside of the house. Also, the possibility of moving a vent from the top of a house to the middle. And Dean answers questions about getting the right cabinet doors.
See omnystudio.com/listener for privacy information.
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Episode Transcript
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Speaker 1 (00:00):
KFI AM six forty. You're listening to Dean Sharp, The
House Whisper on demand on the iHeart Radio app CAFI
AM six forty and live streaming in HD everywhere on
the iHeartRadio App. Hey, welcome to home where. Every week
we help you better understand that place where you live.
(00:22):
I am Dean Sharp, the House Whisper, custom home Builder,
custom home Designer. Most importantly, today, your guide to turning
your ordinary house into something truly extraordinary. I'll tell you
what we're doing today. It's an all calls day.
Speaker 2 (00:38):
It is it.
Speaker 1 (00:39):
You set the agenda. Anything that is going on with
your home, whether it be construction issues, DIY questions, design concerns,
anything at all. The phone lines are open. I am
here to help you sort it all out. We'll put
our heads together and we'll get it sorted. I promise.
(01:00):
Here is the number to reach me, and these lines
are open now.
Speaker 2 (01:03):
The number to.
Speaker 1 (01:04):
Reach me eight three three two Ask Dean eight three
three to ask Dean. You see, it just rolls off
the tomb on that note. How about we go to it.
We're going to take some calls. Anything you want to
talk about, So let's get to it. Hey, Kathy, Welcome home.
Speaker 3 (01:23):
Hi Dean, thanks so much for taking my call and
I appreciate your show. I have a question about some
LED dimmable clear light bulbs that I put in a
metal floor lamp and I thought they would be good
because LED isn't supposed to get hot, and within about
(01:46):
five minutes the metal shade was super hot. I'm just
during why that might be okay.
Speaker 1 (01:57):
So it's in a floor lamp, and the floor lamp
has its own dimmer switch, like a rolling dimmer switch
on it.
Speaker 3 (02:05):
Uh not yet, I was going to plug it into
a dimmer switch. It's for a Airbnb and the original lamp,
the base fell apart the I guess it's called a loader,
the weighted part. So until I repair that, I put
this other lamp in there, and I wanted to eventually
(02:26):
attach it to a dimmer but right now it's just
three individual bulbs and they just turn on turnoff.
Speaker 1 (02:33):
Really just individual bulbs that are turning on turning off,
and there's no dimmer switch attached to them right now
at all.
Speaker 3 (02:42):
No, So it's a pole lamp with one shade and
then a little further up another shade, and then a
little further up another shade. Yeah, they're just either on
or off individually. So I thought, well, because air and
B people don't always they're not always mindful of when
(03:03):
they turn things off and on.
Speaker 1 (03:07):
Yeah, well, okay, so I can tell you this, Kathy.
I'm not sure it's a problem because a clear led bulbs,
they tend to even though they're led based clear bulbs,
because they're trying to give off this attractive kind of
vintage look to them. They don't have the same kind
(03:28):
of cooling mechanisms that other bulbs, frosted bulbs that are
back cooled have, So sometimes a clear decorator bulb will
in fact, well always a clear decorator bulb will in
fact always give off a little bit more heat even
an LED bulb. I was thinking at first that maybe
you had an incompatible dimmer switch attached to them and
(03:52):
as a result that they were kind of fighting with
the dimmer switch. But you're just talking about on and off.
So if they're in a relatively tight little metal shade,
then yeah, so you might want to consider instead of
going with the clear bulb, because a clear bulb its
real purpose is to be seen, and you know, like
the whole thing exposed. If it's in a metal shade
(04:15):
and we're just talking about light coming out from the
front of the bulb, you might want to consider switching
those out to just a standard kind of frosted LED.
They will definitely be cooler than the clear wins that
you've got there. And when the time comes to actually
put a dimmer switch controlling that lamp, make sure that
(04:36):
you are going to be using an LED compatible dimmer switch,
Otherwise the lights will start to strobe out on you,
they'll start to flash, they'll start to have all these
weird behaviors because LEDs require a different kind of dimmer
switch than an old standard incandescent dimmer switch, which are
still being sold out there unfortunately. So make sure that
(05:00):
your dimmer is LED compatible and you won't have a
problem with that. But as far as them being in
a tight little metal housing with those hoods on a
three stack floor lamp, I would probably change it out
to a either a spot bulb that's coming out of
those directed or a standard frosted bulb as opposed to
(05:22):
the clear, because I'm not sure you really need the
clear if you're not going to be seeing the entire
bulb from every angle.
Speaker 3 (05:29):
Okay, I appreciate that. Yeah, it had a bigger frosted
bulb and it didn't get hot at that point. Let
me ask you this. I always use one of those
slider dimmers, and I just wonder do they make those
that are good for LED bulbs. I didn't even realize
I needed a dimmer that was compatible.
Speaker 2 (05:52):
Yeah, yeah, no, they make every imaginable kind.
Speaker 1 (05:55):
Uh. Well, you know what, I take that back, because
I'm not sure I've seen the the the big knob
dimmers that are LED compatible. I'm sure they are, but yes,
slider dimmers totally common. They make just about every kind
of dimmer that you're used to for LEDs now. Because
(06:18):
of the big changeover that happened a few years back
and so everything is LED based now. But the point
is there are still standard dimmers out there, so don't
make the mistake of just grabbing a dimmer switch off
the shelf. Make sure it says LED compatible and you're
gonna be use that with dimmable LED bulbs.
Speaker 2 (06:37):
That's the other thing too.
Speaker 1 (06:38):
Some people have LED compatible dimmers and they just buy
standard LED bulbs. The bulbs have to say dimmable and
the dimmer has to say LED compatible, then they'll made
up just fine and you'll get everything you want out
of it. Otherwise you're gonna get like a disco strobe
effect happening in the room and you're like, this is
(06:58):
not right. So uh yeah, just make sure they're made
it up properly and you're good to go.
Speaker 4 (07:03):
Kathy, if I've never if I have a dimmer that
I think probably is not LED compatible and I've used
it for years and never had the strobing, is that okay?
Speaker 1 (07:16):
It probably is LED compatible. Then if you've used it
with LED dimmable bulbs and you've never seen any strobing,
then it is compatible.
Speaker 3 (07:24):
Okay. Well I bought it way before they even had
LED bulbs, so I better switch out because I'm pretty
sure it's not okay. Thanks so much, Dean. I really
appreciate it.
Speaker 1 (07:38):
You're so welcome, Kathy. Thanks for the call and for
your chipper attitude. I appreciate that too. How about some
more of your calls when we return. You are listening
to Home with Dean Sharp. The House Whisper welcomes you
home or every week we help you better understand that
place where you live. I'm Dean Sharp the House Whisper
here with you live like I am every weekend, or
whether you are listening to the local right here in
(08:01):
southern California, or you're streaming us live from across the country,
or if you have joined in.
Speaker 2 (08:06):
For another episode of the House Whisper podcast. I am
just glad that you are here with us. Good morning
to you, and welcome home. We are doing an all
calls weekend, Dan, welcome home.
Speaker 5 (08:22):
Good morning, Dean.
Speaker 3 (08:23):
How are you.
Speaker 2 (08:24):
I'm well, sir. How you doing very good?
Speaker 5 (08:28):
Very good.
Speaker 6 (08:28):
I'm curious about sodium borate as of wood preservative on
new construction or remodels. I'm going through a little bit
of a remodel and my contractor recommended a borrate preservative,
and I'm just curious on if you've heard of it,
if you've got any thoughts.
Speaker 1 (08:47):
Well, bor rates are actually a common preservative for wood,
and they also bear the advantage of being an anti
moisture and an anti insect. Oh, you got a little
bit of background noise there, Dan, You must be in
(09:08):
the car traveling there. I'm just gonna I'm just gonna
pop you on hold real quick so we get that
background noise out of there.
Speaker 3 (09:15):
Uh.
Speaker 2 (09:15):
Borates are they're they're.
Speaker 1 (09:19):
Just everybody knows. Sodium borate is a natural mineral and
there's nothing weird about it. But it's got a lot
of pretty magical properties. As I said, we use it
in cellulose insulation all the time and it is a
great expeller of moisture. As a result, it works well
(09:43):
on wood. It's friendly to wood long term. And also
did I just say I did that it has a
lot of anti insect anti termite properties as well. Termites
do not enjoy ingesting borates. It's toxic to them. It's
not toxic to it. I mean, I don't want you
to eating borates, but the point is you can come
(10:03):
into contact with it no problem for for termites, it
is a no go. The same with rodents as well,
and so it has a lot of just generally good properties.
Speaker 3 (10:16):
Dan.
Speaker 1 (10:17):
Now, some people don't want to invest in treating their
framing with bor rates before they cover it up. That's,
of course, a totally independent decision for you to make.
But we've had you know, I don't want to say
a lot of good luck with them, because you know,
we've had certain wood framing members on houses treated with
(10:39):
borates and officially nothing has happened. I mean, that's the thing.
It's the herd. It's hard to prove a negative where
it's like, yeah, you put this stuff on your wood,
and well, nothing happens, nothing bad happens, and that's the
good news.
Speaker 6 (10:58):
I appreciate I really appreciate them. But I've been doing
a little research myself, and it looks like it's got
some fire properties as well, which is really curious to me.
Speaker 1 (11:08):
And you know why, I know why it has you
know why it has fire properties.
Speaker 2 (11:12):
This is weird, this weird bit.
Speaker 1 (11:14):
But sodium borate has a has Like I said, it
has a moisture issue. It has moisture. How do I
put it. I'll just I'll explain it this way. In
cellulose insulation, sodium borate, once it gets heat eated up
and exposed a high heat, it actually expels moisture. It'll
(11:37):
draw moisture out of the wood and actually bring it
to the surface. And so yeah, it's the same way
it works in cellulose insulation. Whatever moisture is in the material,
as the sodium borate heats up, it actually brings that
moisture to the surface, which actually gives it some fire
retardant capability.
Speaker 2 (11:57):
So it is. It is pretty outstanding stuff.
Speaker 6 (12:01):
I really appreciate. Yeah, it seems like a no brainer
to me, with the costs not being very expensive at
all and trying to be proactive, it just seems like
a good idea. But I want to just get your
view on it. I appreciate your time, all right.
Speaker 1 (12:13):
My friend, I appreciate the call and the question. Let's
talk to Robbie. Hey, Robbie, welcome home.
Speaker 7 (12:19):
My problem there are two large trees. I'm taking over
my grandmother's property. There are two large trees in the
front yard. The roots are exposed. I believe they're causing
the sidewalk in front to crack. I want to know,
can it be corrected or must I remove the trees?
Speaker 1 (12:40):
Well, I hope you don't remove the trees, especially if
they're big, beautiful trees and they are contributing to the
overall aesthetic and look of the home, and most southern
California homes, in my opinion, need more trees. So surface roots.
This is the question. Surface roots. If these are really old,
well established trees, Robbie, then they get a lot of
(13:02):
roots going all over the place, down out everywhere. So
whatever roots are starting to cause uplift of the sidewalk itself,
those roots could be cut, cut those at the sidewalk
line and repair the sidewalk so it doesn't do any
more damage to the sidewalk. Don't worry about cutting that
root is somehow going to kill the tree, an old
(13:23):
established tree that is just one of you know, five
hundred roots that it's got going on, and it can
do without the one that's uplifting the sidewalk. The key
is we don't want to encourage any more surface root
growth and root growth, and so the principle is very simple.
Trees that are watered and dependent upon surface water, those
(13:46):
trees are the ones who are always going to be
growing roots on the surface. Okay, Old trees like what
you've got right there have undoubtedly have far more than
just surface roots. And so what we want to do
to keep it from spreading any further is we want
to make sure that these trees are not in an
(14:07):
area where we're exposing them to lawn sprinklers or surface water. Okay,
we want to make sure that we rework the irrigation
system so that we keep water away from them. Because
number one, an old established tree. It doesn't need any
more surface watering. It has its own sources of water
deep beneath us in the earth. But number two, it
(14:28):
will still keep giving us surface root growth if it
still keeps finding surface water to feed off of. And
so we simply want to get rid of any surface
water in the area of the canopy of these trees
as much as possible. And when we plant new trees,
new trees need to be irrigated at the base of
(14:51):
the root, not up on the surface. So trees that
grow as the result of sprinkler water will always have
surface roots. Trees that have deep water will grow deep roots.
And that's how it works. Now, there's no getting rid
of the surface roots at this point, but start feeding
it deep and keep the surface water away and you
(15:11):
should be good to go. Thanks Robbie, appreciate the call.
You are listening to Home with Dean Sharp the House Whisper.
Speaker 8 (15:18):
You're listening to Home with Dean Sharp on demand from
KFI AM six forty.
Speaker 1 (15:25):
KFI Dean Sharp, the House Whisper.
Speaker 2 (15:31):
Welcome home. All calls.
Speaker 1 (15:33):
Weekends are great because we can kind of catch up
with everybody and just have fun listening to what's going
on with your home. If you didn't get through today
or I didn't get to you, then just stick with us.
Give me a call next Saturday, next Sunday. You'll get through.
Persistence matters, you will make it through. Hey Scott, welcome home, Bhi.
Speaker 5 (15:53):
Dean, I've got it. Nineteen eighty six house and I
live in Riverside and it's starting to get a little hot.
Two store downstairs stays tindigrees cooler than the upstairs. My
question is when it was built, they put the vent
above the doors for the beardrooms. Can I move those
vent to like the center or should I move them?
Speaker 1 (16:12):
Okay, so your concern is that the vents are too
high and they're not getting the job done.
Speaker 5 (16:17):
Like the airflow I feel would be better in the
middle of the room or not a buve.
Speaker 2 (16:21):
Oh yeah, yeah, yeah yeah.
Speaker 1 (16:23):
Vents over entry doors are really a hilarious thing. Well,
it's not hilarious when you're the one suffering with it.
It's such a common tract home, and you've got to
understand that they weren't put there scientifically. They were put
there economically. You know, you would think in one house
a little bit more ducting. It's no big deal, right,
It isn't. When you take a look at your entire
(16:45):
tract and the thousand or so houses that went into
the entire tract, then everything that's just a little bit
more is something that the builders, generally speaking cut back
on the developers so that they didn't have that one
larger line item. And for those of you who are like,
why is he making such a big deal about vents
(17:07):
over doors? I kind of like my vent over my
door in the bedroom because when I walk in, I
don't see a vent anywhere, you know, because it's back
behind me and everything looks pristine. Well, you're right, one
way to hide e vent so that as you walk
into the room there's no view of it anywhere. However,
if somebody likes Scott, my house is not staying cool
(17:31):
the way it needs to. Especially if I've got a
two story home, there's a very very good reason not
to have the vent over the entry door. And maybe
your house is working for you in your situation just fine,
But it's got a two story home, there are events.
You know, it's hotter upstairs than it is downstairs. Classic situation.
(17:53):
You know, it's called science because heat rises and cold
air descends these days, brand new HVAC systems, there are
ways to resolve that issue. Scott's real issue though, right now,
is he's staring at the fact that in a typical
tract home built in the eighties, you've got vents above
the entry doors, right up above the door, blown into
(18:15):
the room. And it seems at first like that's kind
of a cool place to place. Event you don't see
it when you walk into the room. It's back behind you,
it's up over your head. Esthetically, as a designer, hey,
if the science worked, if the physics of it worked,
I'd be all in favor of all vents above doors
when you walk in. I'm in favor of putting you know,
(18:38):
smoke detectors right up there for the exact same reason,
so we don't have to see them out on the
ceiling or the you know, the far wall of the room.
Speaker 2 (18:46):
Why don't I want to.
Speaker 1 (18:47):
Have the vent there. It's a very very simple idea. Guys,
want you to think of your home, your air conditioning system.
You've got to realize that it's a recirculating system for
all of those small vents that are blowing into rooms, bedrooms,
family rooms, living rooms, kitchens, so on. There is also
and depending on the size of the home, maybe more
(19:08):
than one. There are some large, much larger vents which
are the return air vent o the ducks that are
blowing into the house, into the room where you feel
air coming out of them. Those are supply vents supplying
air into a space, and then there is a return
vent is literally sucking air out of the room, okay,
(19:31):
and that's what is creating the current of air flowing
in your house. If you were to take a sheet
of paper while the AC is running and go over
to the return air vents or large vents usually found
in ceilings of hallways, or if your AC unit is
located inside the house, like it's a vertical unit inside
(19:52):
a closet where the furnace closet is, then quite often
and very likely the big vent right underneath that closet
door is the return air vent. Anyway, they're huge compared
to the other vents because they have to take in
as much air as all the other vents in their
little system are putting out. If you were to take
a piece of paper while it's running and put it
(20:14):
over that vent, you will find out that the paper
just sucks right up to it because it is sucking
air out of the room, all right. The point being this,
all central HVAC systems with forest air are operating on
a recirculation principle. That means if we were to put
a fog or a gas that's visible in the room,
(20:34):
you could see that coming out of the vents eventually
turning around and heading towards the return air. That would
be so illustrative to most homeowners. To drive my point home,
and it's simply this, in order to cool a room,
we need to get that cool air crossing the majority
of the airspace in the room. The best place to
(20:57):
put a vent to cool and or heat a room
is as far away from the exit point of that
room as possible. Like I said, most tracked homes, there's
going to be a return air vent out in the hallway.
And your HVAC system is not some high pressure system
(21:17):
where it's fire hosing air into a space. So what's
happening is if that bedroom door is open, for the
system to work optimally, it should be air is popping
out of the vent over the door. It's getting maybe
a quarter of the way into the room before the
suction that the return air vent is creating in the hallway,
(21:40):
pulls it back out and into the hallway. So this
is the case, and people will notice this, Scott, You
will notice this. People who have doortop vents for their
HVAC system have very very cool hallways. That's because the
hallway is getting the benefit of all of that cold
air the rooms. If we were to imagine the air
(22:03):
flowing into that room, it's only going, in maybe best
case scenario, fifty percent of the way in before it
turns and is being pulled back out again down the
drain as it were. So yeah, you're absolutely one hundred
percent correct if you've got attic space, if you've got room,
even if you know, if you're serious about downstairs rooms,
(22:23):
if you want to open up some drywall and run
ducting as far into the other side of the room
as possible, it's just a few more feet and it's
not that expensive for the homeowner to pay for because
it's a one off. It was expensive for the developer
to pay for a thousand times over, and that's why
they chinched on the HVAC system. So, yes, knowing that
(22:45):
the air that's in the room is going to be
sucked out of the room by the return air. We
want that air on the far side of the room,
so as it's being sucked out, it's passing through all
the air space in the room and doing its damn job.
Speaker 2 (23:00):
Does that make sense, Scott?
Speaker 5 (23:01):
Thank you, Dean, That's what I was thinking. But you're
the best.
Speaker 6 (23:04):
You and Tina are both the best.
Speaker 5 (23:06):
How's that?
Speaker 3 (23:06):
Oh?
Speaker 1 (23:07):
Well, she will very much appreciate hearing that she actually
is the best. I am her sidekick in life and
happy to be number two in that woman's life. But
thank you very much, Scott. Good luck on that. Usually,
especially for those upstairs rooms which are so critical for you,
you've got attic space above it, and so moving those
vents from over the door you have a little drywall
(23:28):
patch there, But moving them from over the door to
the far side of those bedrooms shouldn't be that big
of a deal and really kind of a minimal expense,
and you will see a massive difference. Not going to
solve the whole upstairs downstairs temperature deferential, but at least
the upstairs rooms will have a fighting chance. More of
your calls to come. You're listening to Home with Dean
(23:49):
Sharp the house whisper.
Speaker 2 (23:50):
Thank you for joining us.
Speaker 1 (23:51):
On the program today, Dean Sharp the house whisper with you.
It is an all calls weekend. We are just going
to the phones. You're setting the agenda today. The number
to reach me eight three three two ask Dean Laura,
good morning and welcome.
Speaker 9 (24:07):
Home, Hidane. I'm looking to replace my cabinet door fronts
and drawer fronts in my kitchen and I know to
paint them use more cabinet paint based on your show,
and I'm how to paint them. Cabinets right now are
(24:27):
stand our spain, so I know I have to stand it,
crimate painted any best tricks. Placed the buy cabinet front
doors and drawer fronts, and then I had this edging
around my countertops that kind of looks like would but
it feels like plastic and I don't know if it's
the mirror or what it is. But how to paint
(24:49):
that because I don't know of standing it and it's
I'm hoping standing permanent and painting it it will last
with this cabinet paint, okay, and some where to sign stuff?
Speaker 1 (25:02):
Okay, So so you haven't actually selected the the the
doors yet, No, I'm.
Speaker 9 (25:09):
Looking online for places, but mixed reviews of every place
I'm looking, and I know, you know, everyone has their
own opinions of places, so you take them how you
want them. But do you have any recommendations of where
to purchase door fronts and drawer fronts? And then that's
utching around the count of time.
Speaker 1 (25:30):
Yeah, yeah, okay, so first of all, where to purchase.
You know, if you don't find exactly what you're looking
for online, then get some advice from the people at
the kitchen store. Honestly, you should call them up and say, okay,
here's my situation. Especially if you've got any odd sized doors,
they can definitely help you out with that because they've
(25:52):
got the they got the line on multiple different brands
and multiple different lines of cabinet doors. Uh, the cab
the cabinet door that you're looking to replace your existing
ones with. Is it a raised panel door? Is it
like a flat shaker door? What do you what are
you thinking? What's the planet?
Speaker 9 (26:11):
It's it's the house is built in ninety three, so
it and it used to be like a honey oak,
and I stand in a little bit darker so it's
not so yucky looking. So it's kind of raised ish
has some detail on it that we don't like anymore,
but we are looking at going more playing as a
(26:33):
shaker style cabinet doorfront and doorfronts.
Speaker 6 (26:38):
So well.
Speaker 1 (26:40):
The reason I yeah, the reason I asked is because
one of the big things about cabinet doors that a
lot of people aren't really aware of. If you're using
now you if you're going for a shaker, which is
a framed exterior and a flat panel in the center,
then you're good. You're good with you know, you don't
have to follow this particular piece of advice because that
(27:03):
center shaker panel some in almost every shaker door you
would buy, it's some form of a piece of vineyard plywood,
which is a good thing. That's a good thing, not
a bad thing. Some cabinet doors these days that have
raised panels, some people think, oh, well, I got.
Speaker 2 (27:24):
To go with the stain.
Speaker 1 (27:25):
Grade door because that's the solid wood panel, and that
must be the best, because all these other doors that
are paint grade have an MDF panel, like a medium
density fiberboard panel, even with a wood frame around them,
and that doesn't seem right. And yet that's exactly right.
For those of you who are thinking about doing this
because when it comes to a paint grade cabinet, we
(27:48):
always use an MDF fiberboard center panel because it won't
split and they're notorious of solid wood interior raised panels
are notorious for sometimes cracking and splitting along the grain line.
Speaker 2 (28:01):
But that doesn't apply to you, Laura.
Speaker 1 (28:03):
I'm just laying that out there for everybody else who's
thinking about replacing their cabinet doors. There are so many
good suppliers of Shaker style cabinet doors that I'm sure
you're gonna be able to find one, But you know,
give the kitchen store ring too and get some advice
along those lines, because there are multiple sources to find them.
Some of them are put together better than others, and
(28:24):
so that's what yeah, yeah, And that's that's what you
want to be looking for for sure. Uh And if
you if there's anywhere where you can get either a
sample or get hands on or eyes on, I would
always recommend that first before committing to it, because even
though you're not replacing all your cabinets, it's still it's
still a big pull to replace all of the doors
(28:46):
and drawerfronts in the kitchen. Now, let's talk about the
the stuff that you've got left over. If you're replacing
doors and drawerfronts, Okay, then you don't have to worry
about much prep on the new one because they're coming
in raw and ready to rock and roll for your paint.
Just I assume that, And the best thing to do
(29:09):
is to order them either raw and or pre primed,
and that's always a great primed Yeah, yeah, pre primed
from the factory is just a fantastic way to go
because they're basically paint ready for you. Okay, you just
make sure they're clean and dust free and they're paint
ready and ready to go. Now, as far as the
existing face frame of your cabinet, when we say sanding, okay,
(29:34):
I just want to make it really clear you're not
restaining these cabinets, you're painting them.
Speaker 2 (29:39):
Okay.
Speaker 1 (29:39):
So when we say sand, we do not need to
sand these cabinets all the way down to bear wood.
Speaker 2 (29:45):
Okay.
Speaker 1 (29:46):
What we're looking to do is number one, we want
to make sure those frames are cleaned up, nice and clean,
and we want to basically sand them just enough to
open up the porosity of the finish that's on there. Okay,
So we want to dull the finish. And if you've
successfully dulled the finish and then wipe them down super
clean and ready, then chances are they are ready for
(30:10):
paint at that point, because you know, the cabinets have
got paint or stain on them, and then they've got
a polyurethane finish on them that may or may not
be in great shape after the years have gone by.
You want to get to the point where you've opened
up the porosity simply so that the paint is going
to grab onto that surface and not peel and chip away.
(30:32):
And the same is true with that little strip around
the edge of the countertop. I hope it's not plastic,
because that would be weird. First of all, chances are
it's probably a highly because it's an edge piece. It's
probably a piece of wood with a lot of polyurethane
(30:52):
on it. Okay, So again we're talking about a very
a very fine, relatively fine grip of sand paper. And again,
because you're painting it, you're not really worried about messing up.
You know, even if it is plastic, messing up you
know some veneer that's printed on it. Okay, So we're
talking about very very light, very very small grit sand
(31:20):
paper to again take off sort of burnish, take off
the shine of that edge piece without changing its form
or digging into it. And I think chances are very
very likely, maybe ninety eight percent chance. You just take
off any kind of shine that it's got, clean it
up real good, it'll be ready for paint.
Speaker 9 (31:41):
And can I use the same cabinet paint for that
edging of the countertop?
Speaker 2 (31:45):
Yeah, I would say so.
Speaker 1 (31:47):
I mean, if you've got a cab quality paint, Yeah,
then that's where you should go with that edging piece,
because if that's part of the color.
Speaker 2 (31:56):
Scheme, then then use that there as well. Does that
make sense?
Speaker 9 (32:02):
Great? Thank you so much for your hop. I really
appreciate it.
Speaker 1 (32:05):
You're so welcome, Lauren. Thank you for the call, really
really great question. More of your calls to come. You're
listening to Home with Dean Sharp the House Whisper on KFI.
Speaker 8 (32:16):
You're listening to Home with Dean Sharp on demand from
KFI AM six forty
KFI AM six forty. You're listening to Dean Sharp, The
House Whisper on demand on the iHeart Radio app CAFI
AM six forty and live streaming in HD everywhere on
the iHeartRadio App. Hey, welcome to home where. Every week
we help you better understand that place where you live.
(00:22):
I am Dean Sharp, the House Whisper, custom home Builder,
custom home Designer. Most importantly, today, your guide to turning
your ordinary house into something truly extraordinary. I'll tell you
what we're doing today. It's an all calls day.
Speaker 2 (00:38):
It is it.
Speaker 1 (00:39):
You set the agenda. Anything that is going on with
your home, whether it be construction issues, DIY questions, design concerns,
anything at all. The phone lines are open. I am
here to help you sort it all out. We'll put
our heads together and we'll get it sorted. I promise.
(01:00):
Here is the number to reach me, and these lines
are open now.
Speaker 2 (01:03):
The number to.
Speaker 1 (01:04):
Reach me eight three three two Ask Dean eight three
three to ask Dean. You see, it just rolls off
the tomb on that note. How about we go to it.
We're going to take some calls. Anything you want to
talk about, So let's get to it. Hey, Kathy, Welcome home.
Speaker 3 (01:23):
Hi Dean, thanks so much for taking my call and
I appreciate your show. I have a question about some
LED dimmable clear light bulbs that I put in a
metal floor lamp and I thought they would be good
because LED isn't supposed to get hot, and within about
(01:46):
five minutes the metal shade was super hot. I'm just
during why that might be okay.
Speaker 1 (01:57):
So it's in a floor lamp, and the floor lamp
has its own dimmer switch, like a rolling dimmer switch
on it.
Speaker 3 (02:05):
Uh not yet, I was going to plug it into
a dimmer switch. It's for a Airbnb and the original lamp,
the base fell apart the I guess it's called a loader,
the weighted part. So until I repair that, I put
this other lamp in there, and I wanted to eventually
(02:26):
attach it to a dimmer but right now it's just
three individual bulbs and they just turn on turnoff.
Speaker 1 (02:33):
Really just individual bulbs that are turning on turning off,
and there's no dimmer switch attached to them right now
at all.
Speaker 3 (02:42):
No, So it's a pole lamp with one shade and
then a little further up another shade, and then a
little further up another shade. Yeah, they're just either on
or off individually. So I thought, well, because air and
B people don't always they're not always mindful of when
(03:03):
they turn things off and on.
Speaker 1 (03:07):
Yeah, well, okay, so I can tell you this, Kathy.
I'm not sure it's a problem because a clear led bulbs,
they tend to even though they're led based clear bulbs,
because they're trying to give off this attractive kind of
vintage look to them. They don't have the same kind
(03:28):
of cooling mechanisms that other bulbs, frosted bulbs that are
back cooled have, So sometimes a clear decorator bulb will
in fact, well always a clear decorator bulb will in
fact always give off a little bit more heat even
an LED bulb. I was thinking at first that maybe
you had an incompatible dimmer switch attached to them and
(03:52):
as a result that they were kind of fighting with
the dimmer switch. But you're just talking about on and off.
So if they're in a relatively tight little metal shade,
then yeah, so you might want to consider instead of
going with the clear bulb, because a clear bulb its
real purpose is to be seen, and you know, like
the whole thing exposed. If it's in a metal shade
(04:15):
and we're just talking about light coming out from the
front of the bulb, you might want to consider switching
those out to just a standard kind of frosted LED.
They will definitely be cooler than the clear wins that
you've got there. And when the time comes to actually
put a dimmer switch controlling that lamp, make sure that
(04:36):
you are going to be using an LED compatible dimmer switch,
Otherwise the lights will start to strobe out on you,
they'll start to flash, they'll start to have all these
weird behaviors because LEDs require a different kind of dimmer
switch than an old standard incandescent dimmer switch, which are
still being sold out there unfortunately. So make sure that
(05:00):
your dimmer is LED compatible and you won't have a
problem with that. But as far as them being in
a tight little metal housing with those hoods on a
three stack floor lamp, I would probably change it out
to a either a spot bulb that's coming out of
those directed or a standard frosted bulb as opposed to
(05:22):
the clear, because I'm not sure you really need the
clear if you're not going to be seeing the entire
bulb from every angle.
Speaker 3 (05:29):
Okay, I appreciate that. Yeah, it had a bigger frosted
bulb and it didn't get hot at that point. Let
me ask you this. I always use one of those
slider dimmers, and I just wonder do they make those
that are good for LED bulbs. I didn't even realize
I needed a dimmer that was compatible.
Speaker 2 (05:52):
Yeah, yeah, no, they make every imaginable kind.
Speaker 1 (05:55):
Uh. Well, you know what, I take that back, because
I'm not sure I've seen the the the big knob
dimmers that are LED compatible. I'm sure they are, but yes,
slider dimmers totally common. They make just about every kind
of dimmer that you're used to for LEDs now. Because
(06:18):
of the big changeover that happened a few years back
and so everything is LED based now. But the point
is there are still standard dimmers out there, so don't
make the mistake of just grabbing a dimmer switch off
the shelf. Make sure it says LED compatible and you're
gonna be use that with dimmable LED bulbs.
Speaker 2 (06:37):
That's the other thing too.
Speaker 1 (06:38):
Some people have LED compatible dimmers and they just buy
standard LED bulbs. The bulbs have to say dimmable and
the dimmer has to say LED compatible, then they'll made
up just fine and you'll get everything you want out
of it. Otherwise you're gonna get like a disco strobe
effect happening in the room and you're like, this is
(06:58):
not right. So uh yeah, just make sure they're made
it up properly and you're good to go.
Speaker 4 (07:03):
Kathy, if I've never if I have a dimmer that
I think probably is not LED compatible and I've used
it for years and never had the strobing, is that okay?
Speaker 1 (07:16):
It probably is LED compatible. Then if you've used it
with LED dimmable bulbs and you've never seen any strobing,
then it is compatible.
Speaker 3 (07:24):
Okay. Well I bought it way before they even had
LED bulbs, so I better switch out because I'm pretty
sure it's not okay. Thanks so much, Dean. I really
appreciate it.
Speaker 1 (07:38):
You're so welcome, Kathy. Thanks for the call and for
your chipper attitude. I appreciate that too. How about some
more of your calls when we return. You are listening
to Home with Dean Sharp. The House Whisper welcomes you
home or every week we help you better understand that
place where you live. I'm Dean Sharp the House Whisper
here with you live like I am every weekend, or
whether you are listening to the local right here in
(08:01):
southern California, or you're streaming us live from across the country,
or if you have joined in.
Speaker 2 (08:06):
For another episode of the House Whisper podcast. I am
just glad that you are here with us. Good morning
to you, and welcome home. We are doing an all
calls weekend, Dan, welcome home.
Speaker 5 (08:22):
Good morning, Dean.
Speaker 3 (08:23):
How are you.
Speaker 2 (08:24):
I'm well, sir. How you doing very good?
Speaker 5 (08:28):
Very good.
Speaker 6 (08:28):
I'm curious about sodium borate as of wood preservative on
new construction or remodels. I'm going through a little bit
of a remodel and my contractor recommended a borrate preservative,
and I'm just curious on if you've heard of it,
if you've got any thoughts.
Speaker 1 (08:47):
Well, bor rates are actually a common preservative for wood,
and they also bear the advantage of being an anti
moisture and an anti insect. Oh, you got a little
bit of background noise there, Dan, You must be in
(09:08):
the car traveling there. I'm just gonna I'm just gonna
pop you on hold real quick so we get that
background noise out of there.
Speaker 3 (09:15):
Uh.
Speaker 2 (09:15):
Borates are they're they're.
Speaker 1 (09:19):
Just everybody knows. Sodium borate is a natural mineral and
there's nothing weird about it. But it's got a lot
of pretty magical properties. As I said, we use it
in cellulose insulation all the time and it is a
great expeller of moisture. As a result, it works well
(09:43):
on wood. It's friendly to wood long term. And also
did I just say I did that it has a
lot of anti insect anti termite properties as well. Termites
do not enjoy ingesting borates. It's toxic to them. It's
not toxic to it. I mean, I don't want you
to eating borates, but the point is you can come
(10:03):
into contact with it no problem for for termites, it
is a no go. The same with rodents as well,
and so it has a lot of just generally good properties.
Speaker 3 (10:16):
Dan.
Speaker 1 (10:17):
Now, some people don't want to invest in treating their
framing with bor rates before they cover it up. That's,
of course, a totally independent decision for you to make.
But we've had you know, I don't want to say
a lot of good luck with them, because you know,
we've had certain wood framing members on houses treated with
(10:39):
borates and officially nothing has happened. I mean, that's the thing.
It's the herd. It's hard to prove a negative where
it's like, yeah, you put this stuff on your wood,
and well, nothing happens, nothing bad happens, and that's the
good news.
Speaker 6 (10:58):
I appreciate I really appreciate them. But I've been doing
a little research myself, and it looks like it's got
some fire properties as well, which is really curious to me.
Speaker 1 (11:08):
And you know why, I know why it has you
know why it has fire properties.
Speaker 2 (11:12):
This is weird, this weird bit.
Speaker 1 (11:14):
But sodium borate has a has Like I said, it
has a moisture issue. It has moisture. How do I
put it. I'll just I'll explain it this way. In
cellulose insulation, sodium borate, once it gets heat eated up
and exposed a high heat, it actually expels moisture. It'll
(11:37):
draw moisture out of the wood and actually bring it
to the surface. And so yeah, it's the same way
it works in cellulose insulation. Whatever moisture is in the material,
as the sodium borate heats up, it actually brings that
moisture to the surface, which actually gives it some fire
retardant capability.
Speaker 2 (11:57):
So it is. It is pretty outstanding stuff.
Speaker 6 (12:01):
I really appreciate. Yeah, it seems like a no brainer
to me, with the costs not being very expensive at
all and trying to be proactive, it just seems like
a good idea. But I want to just get your
view on it. I appreciate your time, all right.
Speaker 1 (12:13):
My friend, I appreciate the call and the question. Let's
talk to Robbie. Hey, Robbie, welcome home.
Speaker 7 (12:19):
My problem there are two large trees. I'm taking over
my grandmother's property. There are two large trees in the
front yard. The roots are exposed. I believe they're causing
the sidewalk in front to crack. I want to know,
can it be corrected or must I remove the trees?
Speaker 1 (12:40):
Well, I hope you don't remove the trees, especially if
they're big, beautiful trees and they are contributing to the
overall aesthetic and look of the home, and most southern
California homes, in my opinion, need more trees. So surface roots.
This is the question. Surface roots. If these are really old,
well established trees, Robbie, then they get a lot of
(13:02):
roots going all over the place, down out everywhere. So
whatever roots are starting to cause uplift of the sidewalk itself,
those roots could be cut, cut those at the sidewalk
line and repair the sidewalk so it doesn't do any
more damage to the sidewalk. Don't worry about cutting that
root is somehow going to kill the tree, an old
(13:23):
established tree that is just one of you know, five
hundred roots that it's got going on, and it can
do without the one that's uplifting the sidewalk. The key
is we don't want to encourage any more surface root
growth and root growth, and so the principle is very simple.
Trees that are watered and dependent upon surface water, those
(13:46):
trees are the ones who are always going to be
growing roots on the surface. Okay, Old trees like what
you've got right there have undoubtedly have far more than
just surface roots. And so what we want to do
to keep it from spreading any further is we want
to make sure that these trees are not in an
(14:07):
area where we're exposing them to lawn sprinklers or surface water. Okay,
we want to make sure that we rework the irrigation
system so that we keep water away from them. Because
number one, an old established tree. It doesn't need any
more surface watering. It has its own sources of water
deep beneath us in the earth. But number two, it
(14:28):
will still keep giving us surface root growth if it
still keeps finding surface water to feed off of. And
so we simply want to get rid of any surface
water in the area of the canopy of these trees
as much as possible. And when we plant new trees,
new trees need to be irrigated at the base of
(14:51):
the root, not up on the surface. So trees that
grow as the result of sprinkler water will always have
surface roots. Trees that have deep water will grow deep roots.
And that's how it works. Now, there's no getting rid
of the surface roots at this point, but start feeding
it deep and keep the surface water away and you
(15:11):
should be good to go. Thanks Robbie, appreciate the call.
You are listening to Home with Dean Sharp the House Whisper.
Speaker 8 (15:18):
You're listening to Home with Dean Sharp on demand from
KFI AM six forty.
Speaker 1 (15:25):
KFI Dean Sharp, the House Whisper.
Speaker 2 (15:31):
Welcome home. All calls.
Speaker 1 (15:33):
Weekends are great because we can kind of catch up
with everybody and just have fun listening to what's going
on with your home. If you didn't get through today
or I didn't get to you, then just stick with us.
Give me a call next Saturday, next Sunday. You'll get through.
Persistence matters, you will make it through. Hey Scott, welcome home, Bhi.
Speaker 5 (15:53):
Dean, I've got it. Nineteen eighty six house and I
live in Riverside and it's starting to get a little hot.
Two store downstairs stays tindigrees cooler than the upstairs. My
question is when it was built, they put the vent
above the doors for the beardrooms. Can I move those
vent to like the center or should I move them?
Speaker 1 (16:12):
Okay, so your concern is that the vents are too
high and they're not getting the job done.
Speaker 5 (16:17):
Like the airflow I feel would be better in the
middle of the room or not a buve.
Speaker 2 (16:21):
Oh yeah, yeah, yeah yeah.
Speaker 1 (16:23):
Vents over entry doors are really a hilarious thing. Well,
it's not hilarious when you're the one suffering with it.
It's such a common tract home, and you've got to
understand that they weren't put there scientifically. They were put
there economically. You know, you would think in one house
a little bit more ducting. It's no big deal, right,
It isn't. When you take a look at your entire
(16:45):
tract and the thousand or so houses that went into
the entire tract, then everything that's just a little bit
more is something that the builders, generally speaking cut back
on the developers so that they didn't have that one
larger line item. And for those of you who are like,
why is he making such a big deal about vents
(17:07):
over doors? I kind of like my vent over my
door in the bedroom because when I walk in, I
don't see a vent anywhere, you know, because it's back
behind me and everything looks pristine. Well, you're right, one
way to hide e vent so that as you walk
into the room there's no view of it anywhere. However,
if somebody likes Scott, my house is not staying cool
(17:31):
the way it needs to. Especially if I've got a
two story home, there's a very very good reason not
to have the vent over the entry door. And maybe
your house is working for you in your situation just fine,
But it's got a two story home, there are events.
You know, it's hotter upstairs than it is downstairs. Classic situation.
(17:53):
You know, it's called science because heat rises and cold
air descends these days, brand new HVAC systems, there are
ways to resolve that issue. Scott's real issue though, right now,
is he's staring at the fact that in a typical
tract home built in the eighties, you've got vents above
the entry doors, right up above the door, blown into
(18:15):
the room. And it seems at first like that's kind
of a cool place to place. Event you don't see
it when you walk into the room. It's back behind you,
it's up over your head. Esthetically, as a designer, hey,
if the science worked, if the physics of it worked,
I'd be all in favor of all vents above doors
when you walk in. I'm in favor of putting you know,
(18:38):
smoke detectors right up there for the exact same reason,
so we don't have to see them out on the
ceiling or the you know, the far wall of the room.
Speaker 2 (18:46):
Why don't I want to.
Speaker 1 (18:47):
Have the vent there. It's a very very simple idea. Guys,
want you to think of your home, your air conditioning system.
You've got to realize that it's a recirculating system for
all of those small vents that are blowing into rooms, bedrooms,
family rooms, living rooms, kitchens, so on. There is also
and depending on the size of the home, maybe more
(19:08):
than one. There are some large, much larger vents which
are the return air vent o the ducks that are
blowing into the house, into the room where you feel
air coming out of them. Those are supply vents supplying
air into a space, and then there is a return
vent is literally sucking air out of the room, okay,
(19:31):
and that's what is creating the current of air flowing
in your house. If you were to take a sheet
of paper while the AC is running and go over
to the return air vents or large vents usually found
in ceilings of hallways, or if your AC unit is
located inside the house, like it's a vertical unit inside
(19:52):
a closet where the furnace closet is, then quite often
and very likely the big vent right underneath that closet
door is the return air vent. Anyway, they're huge compared
to the other vents because they have to take in
as much air as all the other vents in their
little system are putting out. If you were to take
a piece of paper while it's running and put it
(20:14):
over that vent, you will find out that the paper
just sucks right up to it because it is sucking
air out of the room, all right. The point being this,
all central HVAC systems with forest air are operating on
a recirculation principle. That means if we were to put
a fog or a gas that's visible in the room,
(20:34):
you could see that coming out of the vents eventually
turning around and heading towards the return air. That would
be so illustrative to most homeowners. To drive my point home,
and it's simply this, in order to cool a room,
we need to get that cool air crossing the majority
of the airspace in the room. The best place to
(20:57):
put a vent to cool and or heat a room
is as far away from the exit point of that
room as possible. Like I said, most tracked homes, there's
going to be a return air vent out in the hallway.
And your HVAC system is not some high pressure system
(21:17):
where it's fire hosing air into a space. So what's
happening is if that bedroom door is open, for the
system to work optimally, it should be air is popping
out of the vent over the door. It's getting maybe
a quarter of the way into the room before the
suction that the return air vent is creating in the hallway,
(21:40):
pulls it back out and into the hallway. So this
is the case, and people will notice this, Scott, You
will notice this. People who have doortop vents for their
HVAC system have very very cool hallways. That's because the
hallway is getting the benefit of all of that cold
air the rooms. If we were to imagine the air
(22:03):
flowing into that room, it's only going, in maybe best
case scenario, fifty percent of the way in before it
turns and is being pulled back out again down the
drain as it were. So yeah, you're absolutely one hundred
percent correct if you've got attic space, if you've got room,
even if you know, if you're serious about downstairs rooms,
(22:23):
if you want to open up some drywall and run
ducting as far into the other side of the room
as possible, it's just a few more feet and it's
not that expensive for the homeowner to pay for because
it's a one off. It was expensive for the developer
to pay for a thousand times over, and that's why
they chinched on the HVAC system. So, yes, knowing that
(22:45):
the air that's in the room is going to be
sucked out of the room by the return air. We
want that air on the far side of the room,
so as it's being sucked out, it's passing through all
the air space in the room and doing its damn job.
Speaker 2 (23:00):
Does that make sense, Scott?
Speaker 5 (23:01):
Thank you, Dean, That's what I was thinking. But you're
the best.
Speaker 6 (23:04):
You and Tina are both the best.
Speaker 5 (23:06):
How's that?
Speaker 3 (23:06):
Oh?
Speaker 1 (23:07):
Well, she will very much appreciate hearing that she actually
is the best. I am her sidekick in life and
happy to be number two in that woman's life. But
thank you very much, Scott. Good luck on that. Usually,
especially for those upstairs rooms which are so critical for you,
you've got attic space above it, and so moving those
vents from over the door you have a little drywall
(23:28):
patch there, But moving them from over the door to
the far side of those bedrooms shouldn't be that big
of a deal and really kind of a minimal expense,
and you will see a massive difference. Not going to
solve the whole upstairs downstairs temperature deferential, but at least
the upstairs rooms will have a fighting chance. More of
your calls to come. You're listening to Home with Dean
(23:49):
Sharp the house whisper.
Speaker 2 (23:50):
Thank you for joining us.
Speaker 1 (23:51):
On the program today, Dean Sharp the house whisper with you.
It is an all calls weekend. We are just going
to the phones. You're setting the agenda today. The number
to reach me eight three three two ask Dean Laura,
good morning and welcome.
Speaker 9 (24:07):
Home, Hidane. I'm looking to replace my cabinet door fronts
and drawer fronts in my kitchen and I know to
paint them use more cabinet paint based on your show,
and I'm how to paint them. Cabinets right now are
(24:27):
stand our spain, so I know I have to stand it,
crimate painted any best tricks. Placed the buy cabinet front
doors and drawer fronts, and then I had this edging
around my countertops that kind of looks like would but
it feels like plastic and I don't know if it's
the mirror or what it is. But how to paint
(24:49):
that because I don't know of standing it and it's
I'm hoping standing permanent and painting it it will last
with this cabinet paint, okay, and some where to sign stuff?
Speaker 1 (25:02):
Okay, So so you haven't actually selected the the the
doors yet, No, I'm.
Speaker 9 (25:09):
Looking online for places, but mixed reviews of every place
I'm looking, and I know, you know, everyone has their
own opinions of places, so you take them how you
want them. But do you have any recommendations of where
to purchase door fronts and drawer fronts? And then that's
utching around the count of time.
Speaker 1 (25:30):
Yeah, yeah, okay, so first of all, where to purchase.
You know, if you don't find exactly what you're looking
for online, then get some advice from the people at
the kitchen store. Honestly, you should call them up and say, okay,
here's my situation. Especially if you've got any odd sized doors,
they can definitely help you out with that because they've
(25:52):
got the they got the line on multiple different brands
and multiple different lines of cabinet doors. Uh, the cab
the cabinet door that you're looking to replace your existing
ones with. Is it a raised panel door? Is it
like a flat shaker door? What do you what are
you thinking? What's the planet?
Speaker 9 (26:11):
It's it's the house is built in ninety three, so
it and it used to be like a honey oak,
and I stand in a little bit darker so it's
not so yucky looking. So it's kind of raised ish
has some detail on it that we don't like anymore,
but we are looking at going more playing as a
(26:33):
shaker style cabinet doorfront and doorfronts.
Speaker 6 (26:38):
So well.
Speaker 1 (26:40):
The reason I yeah, the reason I asked is because
one of the big things about cabinet doors that a
lot of people aren't really aware of. If you're using
now you if you're going for a shaker, which is
a framed exterior and a flat panel in the center,
then you're good. You're good with you know, you don't
have to follow this particular piece of advice because that
(27:03):
center shaker panel some in almost every shaker door you
would buy, it's some form of a piece of vineyard plywood,
which is a good thing. That's a good thing, not
a bad thing. Some cabinet doors these days that have
raised panels, some people think, oh, well, I got.
Speaker 2 (27:24):
To go with the stain.
Speaker 1 (27:25):
Grade door because that's the solid wood panel, and that
must be the best, because all these other doors that
are paint grade have an MDF panel, like a medium
density fiberboard panel, even with a wood frame around them,
and that doesn't seem right. And yet that's exactly right.
For those of you who are thinking about doing this
because when it comes to a paint grade cabinet, we
(27:48):
always use an MDF fiberboard center panel because it won't
split and they're notorious of solid wood interior raised panels
are notorious for sometimes cracking and splitting along the grain line.
Speaker 2 (28:01):
But that doesn't apply to you, Laura.
Speaker 1 (28:03):
I'm just laying that out there for everybody else who's
thinking about replacing their cabinet doors. There are so many
good suppliers of Shaker style cabinet doors that I'm sure
you're gonna be able to find one, But you know,
give the kitchen store ring too and get some advice
along those lines, because there are multiple sources to find them.
Some of them are put together better than others, and
(28:24):
so that's what yeah, yeah, And that's that's what you
want to be looking for for sure. Uh And if
you if there's anywhere where you can get either a
sample or get hands on or eyes on, I would
always recommend that first before committing to it, because even
though you're not replacing all your cabinets, it's still it's
still a big pull to replace all of the doors
(28:46):
and drawerfronts in the kitchen. Now, let's talk about the
the stuff that you've got left over. If you're replacing
doors and drawerfronts, Okay, then you don't have to worry
about much prep on the new one because they're coming
in raw and ready to rock and roll for your paint.
Just I assume that, And the best thing to do
(29:09):
is to order them either raw and or pre primed,
and that's always a great primed Yeah, yeah, pre primed
from the factory is just a fantastic way to go
because they're basically paint ready for you. Okay, you just
make sure they're clean and dust free and they're paint
ready and ready to go. Now, as far as the
existing face frame of your cabinet, when we say sanding, okay,
(29:34):
I just want to make it really clear you're not
restaining these cabinets, you're painting them.
Speaker 2 (29:39):
Okay.
Speaker 1 (29:39):
So when we say sand, we do not need to
sand these cabinets all the way down to bear wood.
Speaker 2 (29:45):
Okay.
Speaker 1 (29:46):
What we're looking to do is number one, we want
to make sure those frames are cleaned up, nice and clean,
and we want to basically sand them just enough to
open up the porosity of the finish that's on there. Okay,
So we want to dull the finish. And if you've
successfully dulled the finish and then wipe them down super
clean and ready, then chances are they are ready for
(30:10):
paint at that point, because you know, the cabinets have
got paint or stain on them, and then they've got
a polyurethane finish on them that may or may not
be in great shape after the years have gone by.
You want to get to the point where you've opened
up the porosity simply so that the paint is going
to grab onto that surface and not peel and chip away.
(30:32):
And the same is true with that little strip around
the edge of the countertop. I hope it's not plastic,
because that would be weird. First of all, chances are
it's probably a highly because it's an edge piece. It's
probably a piece of wood with a lot of polyurethane
(30:52):
on it. Okay, So again we're talking about a very
a very fine, relatively fine grip of sand paper. And again,
because you're painting it, you're not really worried about messing up.
You know, even if it is plastic, messing up you
know some veneer that's printed on it. Okay, So we're
talking about very very light, very very small grit sand
(31:20):
paper to again take off sort of burnish, take off
the shine of that edge piece without changing its form
or digging into it. And I think chances are very
very likely, maybe ninety eight percent chance. You just take
off any kind of shine that it's got, clean it
up real good, it'll be ready for paint.
Speaker 9 (31:41):
And can I use the same cabinet paint for that
edging of the countertop?
Speaker 2 (31:45):
Yeah, I would say so.
Speaker 1 (31:47):
I mean, if you've got a cab quality paint, Yeah,
then that's where you should go with that edging piece,
because if that's part of the color.
Speaker 2 (31:56):
Scheme, then then use that there as well. Does that
make sense?
Speaker 9 (32:02):
Great? Thank you so much for your hop. I really
appreciate it.
Speaker 1 (32:05):
You're so welcome, Lauren. Thank you for the call, really
really great question. More of your calls to come. You're
listening to Home with Dean Sharp the House Whisper on KFI.
Speaker 8 (32:16):
You're listening to Home with Dean Sharp on demand from
KFI AM six forty
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