June 17, 2025 • 38 mins
From the floating gardens of Xochimilco, to the sinking sights of El Zócalo, Mango and Gabe explore some of the most fascinating, offbeat attractions in Mexico City. Along the way we'll dole out some helpful travel tips, including the best drink to beat the heat (and the altitude!), a must-try carb-on-carb breakfast sandwich, and the only subway station in the world with its very own woolly mammoth!
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Transcript
Episode Transcript
Available transcripts are automatically generated. Complete accuracy is not guaranteed.
Speaker 1 (00:14):
You're listening to Part Time Genius, the production of Kaleidoscope
and iHeartRadio.
Speaker 2 (00:23):
Guess what Mango?
Speaker 1 (00:24):
What's that gave?
Speaker 2 (00:25):
So you know how the capital of Mexico is Mexico City.
Speaker 1 (00:29):
Yeah, I mean I've played a lot of carbon San
Diego as a kid. All right.
Speaker 2 (00:33):
Well, the funny thing is that it wasn't technically true
when you first learned it. How do you mean, Well,
until recently, the official name of Mexico's capital was the
Distrata Federal, the Federal District, or DF for short, and
that was the name that was on the books for
nearly two hundred years, but it never caught on in
(00:54):
other countries.
Speaker 1 (00:55):
So Mexico City wasn't officially called Mexico City. That's so bizarre.
How come?
Speaker 2 (01:01):
Well it's because most countries have their own federal districts,
so you know, it could get confusing if people don't
know which one you're referring to. So instead, people just
kept calling the capital Mexico City, which was the district's
original name. That's what it was called prior to Mexico
winning its independence from Spain way back in the eighteen twenties.
Speaker 1 (01:20):
Oh, that's fascinating. So it was Mexico City, then it
was in Mexico City, and now it's Mexico City again,
Like why to change?
Speaker 2 (01:29):
All right? Well, so you know how in Washington, DC,
there's a movement to get representation in Congress. Sure, Well,
in Mexico City, there's been this ongoing effort for the
last forty years to help the district become more autonomous,
and in twenty sixteen, then President Enrique pinonetto champion that
caused in a big way when he officially rebranded the
(01:50):
capital Mexico City. The restructuring from a district to a
city granted it new political rights, including the ability to
set its own budgets and even adopt its own constitution,
which it did in twenty seventeen.
Speaker 1 (02:03):
So there's so much trivia, like global trivia that I loved,
like that there was a part of Bangladesh that was
in India, that was in Bangladesh that was in India. Similarly,
the idea that Mexico City is not Mexico City. But
I feel like that's a fact I would have dined
out on for a very very long time.
Speaker 2 (02:23):
Yeah, it's tough to keep straight, but in this case,
it's actually more than just trivia. And that's because one
of the most unique aspects of Mexico City is the
way it embraces both tradition and modernity. So on one hand,
adopting the old name of Mexico City is a nod
to the region's past, but it's also a nod to
the future, like one where the city is hopefully less
(02:45):
beholden to the federal government and has more of a
voice in how it's governed. But that's just one of
the many connections between the past and the present in
Mexico City. There's a lot more to explore in today's travelogue,
so let's dive in.
Speaker 1 (03:19):
Hey, their podcast listeners, and welcome to Part Time Genius.
I'm Mongish particular, and today I'm joined by my good
friend and writer researcher extraordinary for this show, Gabe lucy A.
And on the other side of the soundproof glass downing
a bottle of coconut flavored electro lit that is our
friend and producer Dylan Fagan and watch him go. Apparently,
(03:43):
the drink is a summer staple in Mexico City because
it's load with electrolytes to help you stay hydrated in
the high heat.
Speaker 2 (03:50):
Yeah, but our studios air conditions. So why is Dylan drinking?
Speaker 1 (03:56):
I'm guessing it has something to do with the fact
that he was doing all those guitar solos with shredding
in there for hours and hours. When you're practicing to
leave it out all on the stage, you really need
to hydrate.
Speaker 2 (04:06):
Yeah, I've heard Keith Richards was also big on hydration
for that same reason. So is this kind of like
Mexico's answer to Gatorade because this bottle looks way more medicinal.
Speaker 1 (04:19):
Yeah, apparently electroly it tends to be less sugary, and
it's a little closer to what you'd find in an
actual IV drip. But just like Gatorade, the drink is
stocked at convenience stores and consumed by just about everyone,
not just athletes. It also predates Gatorade by about fifteen years,
having been invented in nineteen fifty, and this was in
(04:39):
the midst of a cholera epidemic. The oral rehydration solution,
which is also known as suero in Mexico. It helped
save thousands of children's lives during this crisis, and ever
since it's been the drink of choice not just for
sick children, but for local athletes, hikers, or anyone else
who feels a little out of sorts in the there.
(05:00):
But there's actually another reason why the drink is so
popular in Mexico City in particular, and that's because the
region's high altitude. It's sometimes easy to forget since we
usually associate high altitudes with cold temperatures, but Mexico's capital
is actually twenty two hundred meters above sea level, or
nearly a mile and a half. So it's pretty common
(05:21):
for visitors to feel lightheaded or tired shortly after their arrival.
But thankfully that can be easily fixed with a bottle
or two of electrolt.
Speaker 2 (05:31):
All right, well, I just want to point out that
part time Genius is not sponsored by Electrolyte.
Speaker 1 (05:37):
I mean, I just want to point out to the
sponsors that we are open to it.
Speaker 2 (05:43):
Yeah, okay, obviously, But now, okay, So I know you
mentioned the elevation, but Mexico City's geography is unusual in
lots of other ways too. For instance, another thing that's
easy to overlook is that the current city is built
on top of a dried up lake bed those seven
hundred years ago the Mashika, who later became known better
(06:04):
known as the Aztecs. They built the original Mexico city
on an island in Lake tex Coco, but after the
Spanish invaded in the fifteen twenties, the lake was drained
to allow for greater expansion.
Speaker 1 (06:15):
You know, I've always loved that story that the Aztecs
built their city on an island in the middle of
a lake. But do you actually know the rationale for that,
because I feel like I've always heard that but never
knew why they chose to do that.
Speaker 2 (06:27):
Yeah, it seems like a strange place to build a city,
but with the lake and the surrounding mountains, it was
a pretty secure place to build a city. Plus it
had its own built in water supply. But according to legend,
the real reason why the Aztec settled there was the
fulfillment of an ancient prophecy. They were in their nomadic
phase in the early fourteenth century, wandering from one place
(06:47):
to the next, but they believed that their gods would
eventually show them where to settle by sending a very
distinctive sign an eagle perched atop a cactus eating a snake,
and what do you know, it one day thirteen twenty five,
while passing by Lake tex Coco, they looked out to
a small island and saw exactly that. So with that
divine stamp of approval, the Aztec set out to build
(07:09):
an elaborate floating city, which they called Tenosh Teethlon, or
Place of the Prickly Pear Cactus.
Speaker 1 (07:17):
It's funny because I hadn't associated the two with one another,
but like that image of a golden eagle standing on
a cactus chomping on a snake, that's actually the image
on Mexico's flag.
Speaker 2 (07:28):
Right, yeah, exactly. It became a foundational symbol pretty much
for the entire country, with the eagle representing the spirit
of the Mexican people, and Tanosh Teethlan itself was, you know,
pretty incredible. The city was built across a series of
natural and artificial islands, the ladder of which were created
using soil dredged from the lake bottom, and the city
(07:49):
was laid out in a symmetrical grid, with four sectors
surrounding a central area, which is where all the temples
and palaces were located. But most impressively, the different sectors
were connected to each other by four causeways or elevated roads,
which also acted as barriers to separate the lake's brackish
saltwater from its fresh water, so residents could also get
(08:10):
around the city by boat thanks to this elaborate system
of canals, a feature for which the Spanish would later
dub tanosh Titlan the Venice of the New World. So
for the next two hundred years, the Aztecs thrived in
this floating capital. They conquered other tribes throughout the region,
and eventually they became the largest and most populous city
(08:31):
in pre Columbian America, covering more than five square miles
and boasting upwards of two hundred thousand citizens.
Speaker 1 (08:39):
You think about this then, like the symmetry of the
structures here, the fact that they built islands, It just
sounds so impressive. They built up this real civilization. And
then the Spanish cam right.
Speaker 2 (08:52):
Yeah, Spanish explorer Hernand Cortes showed up in fifteen nineteen
and he immediately set his eyes on the Aztec sophisticated
city and all the treasure that he assumed was stored
inside of it. He spent the next two years securing
the support of local tribes who were you know, itching
to overthrow the Aztecs, and then in fifteen twenty one,
he and his troops laid siege to tein O Schtiethln.
(09:15):
The battle lasted for ninety three days and a large
portion of the city was destroyed in the fighting. So
once the Aztec surrendered, the Spanish looted and burned most
of what remained. Then they drained the surrounding lake and
built Spain's new colonial center right on top of the ruins,
creating what we know today as Mexico City.
Speaker 1 (09:35):
You know, it's one of those things that, like, it
always astounds me that the conquistadors just like came in
as one culture, wiping out another culture just to take
what they wanted.
Speaker 2 (09:44):
Right, Yeah, it's a shame. And you know, the detail
that really gets to me is that the Spanish used
many of the same stones from Tano Schteethlan in the
construction of their new city. So, for instance, one of
the most famous buildings in the Zocallo that's Mexico City's
main PubL book square is the Metropolitan Cathedral. It's the
largest cathedral in Latin America and it was built directly
(10:07):
on top of the Templo Mayor, the Sacred Temple complex
at the heart of the Aztec capital. It's such a
stark physical symbol of one culture, just kind of railroading
and building over another. Like there's no subtext here, it
is all text.
Speaker 1 (10:22):
There's actually an interesting PostScript to this that might make
you feel a bit better. So the Metropolitan Cathedral is
a very very big building, as you said, and since
it's made of stone, it's also incredibly heavy, and it
is so heavy, in fact, that it's actually sinking into
the ground, with its south wing now almost a full
(10:43):
meter lower than the rest of it. This development wasn't
surprising in itself, because all of Mexico City is sinking
by as much as fifteen inches per year because it's
built on a lake bed right exactly. But the cathedral
slow descent turned out to be a special case because
the lower got, the more visible the ancient structures beneath
it became. And what's amazing is that, like archaeologists hadn't
(11:06):
been able to pinpoint the temple's exact location, but in
the nineteen seventies they started finding engraved stone discs and
other artifacts around the cathedral sinking base, and these discoveries
led to extensive excavation, and now the remains of this
temple Mayora are actually on full display for visitors. There's
even a museum next door that spotlights many of the
(11:28):
relics unearthed there.
Speaker 2 (11:29):
It really just goes to show you can't keep a
good temple down. My mom always said that, Yeah. It
is amazing though, that the European conquerors they tried to
bury the region's past, but it literally rose to the
surface in this case, and now it sounds like the
city's kind of safeguarding it for the future. It actually
(11:50):
reminds me of this quote. I came across on a
site called Escaping Worlds. So this reporter, Lisy, she spoke
to a bunch of Mexico City natives to get, you know,
local perspective on the culture. And one of the people
she talked to was this middle aged mechanic named Pedro.
He tied the city's pass to the president in a
really lovely way, so I wanted to share it, he said.
(12:12):
Quote as tech legend says, Cortes burned the feet of
our last as tech emperor because he was looking for
his treasure. He would ask where is the treasure? And
the emperor said, admire my treasure. It is before your eyes.
He never understood that the Mexican treasure is the people,
the town. Get to know the people and the country.
Don't base your thoughts of Mexico on what the news says.
(12:35):
We are more than bad news, tacos and beer.
Speaker 1 (12:39):
Although I do love tacos, and I feel like that's
a lot more insightful than I think my mechanic has
ever told me. Who just tells me I need to
rotate my tires more?
Speaker 2 (12:50):
Well, I mean I've heard that's important too. But before
before we start the next leg of our tour, why
don't we take a quick break.
Speaker 1 (13:10):
You're listening to part Time Genius, and we're talking all
about the many links between ancient Aztec civilization and modern
Mexico City today. So, Gabe, we just spent a little
time on Zacalo, which of course is a must for
anyone who visits the Mexican capital, but now want to
head south to a neighborhood called Hochi Milco, or as
(13:31):
it's known in English, the Land of Flowers. It is
a very special part of the city because it's home
to the original Aztec cities last remaining waterways.
Speaker 2 (13:40):
Oh no way. I thought the Spanish strained the city's
lake when they took it over.
Speaker 1 (13:45):
Yeah, but apparently like a handful of lagoons remained in
the Mexico City basin, and the ones here are especially
notable because they were and still are a vital source
of food for the city. You know, you mentioned earlier
that the Aztec extended the city's area by creating all
these man made islands that were just above the water line. Well,
(14:07):
those basically functioned as floating gardens, and farmers built rafts
out of reeds, covered them in mud, and cultivated fruit
and vegetables right there on the water. And as time
went on, the rafts gradually rooted to the bottom of
the lake and became islands.
Speaker 2 (14:22):
That's incredible. These guys are so ahead of their time.
But you said these gardens are still in use today.
Speaker 1 (14:28):
Yeah, so some of them are. Chinampas, as the islands
are called, were a main source of food for the
city prior to the twentieth century, but rapid urbanization it
obviously took a heavy toll on the practice. That said,
Chinampa farming has been making this steady comeback in recent decades,
and as many of these sort of like homegrown practices did.
(14:49):
It actually got quite a boost from COVID nineteen and
the pandemic when the industrial food supply was disrupted, and
that whole chain was sort of like picked apart local
farmers and rehabilitating chinampas to feed their city. And the
project proved so successful that it's continued ever since, with
more chinampas being restored every year.
Speaker 2 (15:09):
I'm kind of surprised they were able to grow enough
food to make a difference like that, because I pulled
up a picture here and these aren't very big islands.
It's like maybe an acre or two tops.
Speaker 1 (15:20):
Don't let their size fool you, because according to our
friends at Atlas Obscura, chinampas are actually one of the
most productive forms of agriculture in the world. They produce
as many a seven harvest per year, which this is
astounding to me. And because of the rich lake soil
and warm climate, they can grow just about anything, so
you can have greens, herbs, flowers, fruits, you name it,
(15:42):
which is how the Aztecs were able to sustain two
hundred thousand people in such a small space.
Speaker 2 (15:47):
Yeah, that explains it. I mean seven harvests a year
is really quite a lot.
Speaker 1 (15:52):
That's crazy.
Speaker 2 (15:54):
I am curious though, are the Chinampas off limits to
everyone but farmers or is this something that's you know,
opened to the public.
Speaker 1 (16:02):
I love that idea that like I would tease you
about going there and then like you would actually show
up and couldn't visit.
Speaker 2 (16:09):
Travel destination you can't visit.
Speaker 1 (16:13):
I mean, we probably should do an episode on just
travel destinations you can't visit. But uh, you should absolutely
check this one out. There's about one hundred miles of
murky canals weaving through the Chinampas there, and visitors are
welcome to explore them aboard these colorful flat bottomed boats
they're called trahinneras, and you can do that or you
can actually take a guided kayak tour. You should keep
(16:36):
in mind that the trahinias provide more of a party atmosphere,
so they can cloud and crowded, and they tend to
like bump into each other a lot. So if you're
looking for a more relaxed, informative visit, maybe the kayak
tours more your speed. Uh. The kayak tours also provide
a great chance to see the wildlife up close in
this region, including more than two hundred species of birds,
(17:00):
as well as the elusive axe lottel.
Speaker 2 (17:03):
Oh okay, you've piqued my interest. I love those weird
looking salamanders. They've got those feathery gills on the side
of their heads.
Speaker 1 (17:11):
I know, they are so cute and so weird and
just so great. You know. And while most of the
axe lottles actually alive today were bread and captivity, either
as pets or as research subjects. That's actually what makes
Mexico City so special in this regard. They are the
last wild population of Acx lottls in the world. And
(17:32):
these foot long amphibians, I actually didn't realize they were
foot long, like I thought they were tinier. They used
to thrive in the lakes surrounding Mexico City, but thanks
to habitat loss and water pollution, they now exist solely
in these canals. Wow.
Speaker 2 (17:46):
Yeah, I had no idea they could get that big either,
And I also didn't know that Mexico City was the
best place to find them. Do we know how many
of these little critters are left out there?
Speaker 1 (17:56):
So the current estimate is between fifty and one thousand,
which is few enough to qualify the species as critically endangered,
but it is so hard to get an exact count
because these little guys aren't easy to spot in this
like murky water. And that's partially because there's another difference
between the axe lottles that are bred, which are pink
(18:18):
and white in color due to a genetic mutation, but
these wild axe lottles, they're basically brown or gray, so
they kind of blend in with the water.
Speaker 2 (18:29):
But they're amphibians, right, So why can't we just you know,
count them when they come onto the land.
Speaker 1 (18:33):
Yeah, that's something I was wondering too. But it turns
out that axe lottels do this strange thing where they
retain their juvenile characteristics into adulthood. So that's why their
like eyes and limbs look too small for their bodies.
Speaker 2 (18:44):
And they've got that fin thing that runs down the
length of their whole body.
Speaker 1 (18:49):
Yeah, and that external guill, that feathery thing that you mentioned.
Most amphibians lose those by the time they reach adulthood,
but axe lottles keep theirs, and they actually stay aquatic
for life. They do have functional lungs, so they could
go on land. It's not off limits to them, but
they just prefer life in the water.
Speaker 2 (19:07):
Well fair enough. I mean, I love how bas are
they are. It's really quite endearing. But it makes you wonder, like,
what did the Aztecs think of these little weirdos swimming
all over their city?
Speaker 1 (19:20):
They must have been aware of them, yeah, I mean,
they definitely were. The word axe lottle comes from the
name for the Aztec god of fire and lightning, So
I mean, I guess they have a pretty high opinion
of these creatures, or at least thought there was, you know,
something cool about them or unusual about them, which of
course there is. You know.
Speaker 2 (19:38):
It is sad to think, though, that the species could
disappear from Mexico after all this time.
Speaker 1 (19:43):
So there is a little bit of promising news on
their front. Over the last few years, researchers have been
working closely with Chinampa farmers or chinamperos to create dozens
of axe lottle sanctuaries among the floating gardens. They've installed
these bamboo cates along the shores to protect the creatures
from invasive species. These are things like carp or tilapia,
(20:06):
and they've also started relocating some of the ax lottels
from the main canal systems to a series of interconnected
ditches in the middle of certain shinapas. Of course, there
are also a couple of places to see axe lottls
outside of the canals. The Chapultepec Zoo has a special
section devoted to the Mexican amphibians, and there's another museum
(20:26):
in Preserve located in Park Tarango, which is an eco park.
Speaker 2 (20:30):
I love that. Lots of options to see these guys.
And you know, we've talked a little bit about exploring
Mexico by boat, but there's a super strange and important
rule about driving in Mexico City that every visitor should
know ahead of time, and I want to tell you
all about it right after this break.
Speaker 1 (20:47):
Can't wait.
Speaker 2 (21:02):
Welcome back to part time genius. Okay, Mango. So, one
thing that might surprise first time visitors to Mexico City
is the sheer size of the place. The metropolitan area
spans five hundred and thirty seven square miles and is
home to just under twenty three million people. That's over
one hundred square miles more than New York City and
nearly three times the population.
Speaker 1 (21:24):
That is so many people to cram into a lake
bed it I know in one place where you'll really
feel the pinch is on the city's crowded highways. There
are about five million vehicles registered in Mexico City and
just as many more in the surrounding state of Estado
de Mexico, and as you'd expect, the resulting gridlock is
(21:46):
pretty unbearable, with the average resident spending roughly two hundred
and twenty seven hours stuck in traffic each year. That
is insane. You know, I have lived in Atlanta, which
has a traffic issue. I've lived in New York, I've
lived in Bombay, which also has insane traffic. But spending
(22:07):
two hundred and twenty seven hours stuck in traffic each year,
that's like ten full days in traffic. How do people
stand that?
Speaker 2 (22:14):
It's awful? You know, that's been one of the main
knocks against the city for decades, which is not to
say the city officials haven't tried to solve the problem.
For example, the most sweeping measure they've tried is this
government program where you're only allowed to drive on certain
days of the week, and the days when you can't
drive are determined by the last digit on your license plate. So,
(22:36):
for example, if your plate ends in a seven or
an eight, then you can't drive your car on Tuesdays,
and if it ends in a one or two, then
you're barred from the road on Thursdays. That is wild,
but I guess there's a certain logic to it. So
what do you think is the worst number to get
stuck with? Like, is there one that blocks you from
driving on Saturdays?
Speaker 1 (22:54):
Or yeah?
Speaker 2 (22:56):
Kind of So. The program was started in nineteen eighty
nine as a way to help improve the city's air
quality while also cutting down on commuter traffic. So at first,
the restrictions only applied on weekdays and only to drivers
whose cars didn't meet certain emission standards. But as time
went on and as pollution and traffic congestion continued to worsen,
(23:17):
the scope of the program broadened a bit. So as
a result, vehicles that only meet the weakest emission standards
are now barred from the road on certain Saturdays as well.
Vehicles with odd numbered plates have to stay home on
the first and third Saturdays of the month, and those
with even numbered plates can't go out on the second
and fourth Saturdays. It's a lot to keep track of,
(23:41):
but it's worth noting that the no Drive program only
applies between the hours of five am and ten pm,
so there is the seven hour window each day when
anyone can drive without restriction.
Speaker 1 (23:56):
It's when the teens hit the cars and just cruise.
I do feel like there should be an app to
keep track of all this, right, Like, I honestly feel
like I would be so bad at maintaining the calendar
for this.
Speaker 2 (24:10):
Yeah, it is not the most popular program in Mexico City,
as you can imagine. Opponents argue, you know that it's
a pain to navigate, which it is, and it hasn't
accomplished either of its stated missions so far.
Speaker 1 (24:22):
And oh noll.
Speaker 2 (24:23):
Worst of all, though, it mostly restricts low income residents
as they tend to drive older, high emission vehicles. And
of course it's led to some funny skirting of the
rules because of that, Like some folks own multiple license
plates and swap them out as needed, you know, to
get that terminating digit for the day.
Speaker 1 (24:43):
That is very sneaky. So in theory, if someone was
able to source five license plates with the right end digits,
that they could drive with impunity any day of the week,
whatever hoop do you were driving, you could get away
with this.
Speaker 2 (24:57):
Right, yeah, right, but again, theoretically, we're not suggesting that
listeners break international law just to avoid riding the bus
on a Wednesday.
Speaker 1 (25:05):
Don't do that. So is this like a locals only
kind of thing, or is this something that applied to
unite like foreigners as well?
Speaker 2 (25:13):
Oh yeah, yeah, no, the program absolutely applies to Taurus.
In fact, it's even more stringent for US because drivers
with foreign plates are actually barred from driving on every
Saturday as a month.
Speaker 1 (25:26):
That's almost easier though, twitch ones.
Speaker 2 (25:30):
Consult your calendar, right, But you know, while visitors can
register for an exemption ahead of their visit, if you forget,
you'll be subject to the same penalties for non compliance
as the locals are. What does that mean Exactly, it's
just a small fine, but when you factor in the
towing and impound fees, you're still probably looking at a
few hundred US dollars, not to mention at least half
(25:52):
a day lost of your vacation. I mean nothing to
sneeze at.
Speaker 1 (25:55):
No, completely. I feel like I've been on trips where
a car is conked out like a rental car. It
really throws off your timeline and schedule and feels a
waste of time. So I feel like anyone who's listening
should definitely apply for that tourist pass if you plan
to visit my car right.
Speaker 2 (26:11):
Or better, yeah, leave your car at home and travel
some other way instead. It will still be intensely crowded
at the airport and on the subway, but at least
you won't get fined for, you know, forgetting what day
it is.
Speaker 1 (26:23):
Speaking of the subway system, El Metro, as it's known
in Mexico City, that's another thing that might seem overwhelming
to first timers. It has three lines, one hundred and
ninety five stations, and about five million people rid it
every day. But the surprising part is that it is
shockingly easy to navigate. All of the stations are clearly
(26:45):
marked above ground, and each one has a unique icon,
which is usually something associated with the history or culture
of that location. So, for example, if you want to
visit the famous Chapultepec Park, you'd look for the stop
labeled with the grasshopper, because Chapultepec means the hill of
the grasshoppers.
Speaker 2 (27:03):
A subway icon system is such a good idea, But
what's the significance of the grasshopper is the you know,
is the park just like swarming with him or what
is it?
Speaker 1 (27:14):
So no one really knows if the name is meant
to refer to the shape of the hill or its
abundance of grasshoppers, but the insects have obviously been this
important part of Mexican culture and cuisine. This goes all
the way back to the Aztec, so it's only fitting
that they get their own metro stop. But the coolest
part of the Mexico City subway system is that some
(27:36):
of the stations also double as attractions in their own right. So,
for instance, the Vivero's station is named for the popular
plant nursery nearby, but there's also plenty of greenery right
there underground. The entire station is made to look like
a rainforest. It is complete with all these like imitation trees, animals,
(27:56):
and even a suspended rope bridge above this salters. It's
really pretty remarkable, and if you prefer your subway animal
exhibits to be a bit more authentic, you also can
hop over to the Talisman station, which uses a woolly
mammoth for its logo.
Speaker 2 (28:15):
Oh WHOA please make my day? Tell me they've got
a livew myth down there.
Speaker 1 (28:22):
Not a live mammoth, but at least not yet. They
have bought one from Colossal Bussi. But they do have
the next best thing. Back in nineteen seventy eight, when
the station was under construction, the workers unearthed this nearly
complete mammoth skeleton and the states all the way back
to the ice age. But rather than ship it off
(28:44):
to the museum, they decide to put the fossils right
on display there where the animal died. It is pretty remarkable.
Speaker 2 (28:51):
Yeah, that's so fun. And you know, I love the
idea of visiting Mexico City, specifically for the metro stops.
Would it be to just tour all the station attractions
and not actually go above ground?
Speaker 1 (29:06):
I feel like it would be a good story. I'm
not sure it's how I would want to spend my vacation,
but I like it. On the plus side, it would
be pretty cheap or budget friendly, Like the Metro fair
for one ride is just five pesos, so about twenty
five US cents.
Speaker 2 (29:20):
Oh well, I mean that settles it right there. Pack
your bags, kids, we're heading for l Metro.
Speaker 1 (29:28):
I mean, you can take my kids. I'm totally happy
with that. But before you go, let's take a quick
detour and they hit up our back off. You could
sapple dishes from all thirty one states in the Mexican capital.
But if you want to try a homegrown specialty, head
(29:50):
to a vendor on just about any street in Mexico
City and grab yourself a guahalota. This simple carb on
carbs which this of a steamed corn dough toamaal stuffed
inside a bread roll. That is it. It is cheap,
it is filling, it is highly portable. These sandwiches are
typically eaten at breakfast and especially popular with commuters and students.
(30:14):
And although the name is derived from the Nawattle word
for turkey, the bird actually isn't an ingredient. Instead, most
vendors use tamales filled with chicken, pork or chile pablana.
Speaker 2 (30:26):
That is quite a hearty breakfast. But why call the
sandwich turkey if it doesn't include turkey?
Speaker 1 (30:32):
You know, it's another one of these things that no
one really knows. But some people think it's because the
round bread rolls resemble a turkey breast, and others say
it's because of the sandwich is so high in calories
that it'll fatten you up like a turkey.
Speaker 2 (30:46):
Oh, well, I suppose both could be true. But okay,
here's a dish to try if you're feeling fancy and
a little daring on your next vacation. It's often referred
to as Mexican caviar, but locals know it better as
awa utla, or seeds of joy. Your own level of
joy may vary when you try this dish, though, because
these seeds in question are actually the eggs of an
(31:08):
ancient aquatic insect, the axayactyl, the waterfly said to have
an intense fishy flavor. The tiny golden eggs are often
used to make a savory pancake that's traditionally served with
a tomatillo and serrano chili sauce. The practice dates back
to the days of the Aztec Empire, when the fli's
eggs were considered a sacred food of the gods. They
(31:30):
were harvested from Lake tex Coco during the rainy season
and were used for religious ceremonies as well as in
the emperor's meals. And while they may no longer be
thought of as sacred, the eggs are still a prize
delicacy in the Mexican capital. The only problem is there's
a lot less water in the lake today, which means
much fewer eggs to harvest. As a result, only a
(31:52):
handful of restaurants in Mexico City still serve awa utle,
and the ones that do charge a pretty peso for it.
Into the Mexico News Daily, the average price of waterfly
eggs was about twenty three dollars per pound in twenty
twenty two, and with more of lake text cocoa drying
up each year, that price is bound to rise even higher.
Speaker 1 (32:14):
I mean, can you really put a price on an
ancient insect egg pancake?
Speaker 2 (32:19):
Well, in my case, I don't think there's any price
I would pay.
Speaker 1 (32:23):
But I mean it's not that different from like Llini's
and caviar, right if the taste it's like the image
that's hard to process in some ways.
Speaker 2 (32:34):
Okay, yeah, well I'm not eating that either, But.
Speaker 1 (32:37):
Well, for anyone who does try it, I've got the
perfect beverage to pair with it. It's called polke. It's
made from the fermented sap of the agave, the same
plant that's used to make tequila and mezcal. But Polke
is believed to be Mexico's oldest alcoholic drink. Oh, it's
kind of like their meat or something much like waterfly caviar.
(33:00):
The Aztecs considered polke a sacred gift from the gods,
and only emperors and their priests were allowed to drink it.
But when the Aztec Empire fell, polk became this drink
for the people and it was widely consumed throughout central Mexico. Now,
the popularity of the milky white beverage waned following the
introduction of beer and distilled spirits in the sixteenth century,
(33:21):
but polka never fully disappeared, and today the drinks experiencing
this cultural resurgence. In Mexico City, you'll find numerous bars
specializing in pulk known as pulcarias, and you can actually
buy big plastic cups of it at street markets and
also from floating vendors in the canals, which Cool's got
a special and for anyone wondering what pulk tastes like,
(33:44):
it's slightly sour and yeastya kind of like a kombucha
but with a touch of sweetness, and the alcohol content
is comparable to beer. You can also find flavored versions
of it, so there's everything from like guava to celery,
and as as long as you're of age, there's really no.
Speaker 2 (34:02):
Excuse not to try it sounds good. But moving away
from food and drink for a second, did you know
that Mexico City boasts the most museums of any city
outside of Europe? Second only, Yeah, right, second only to London.
The Mexican capital has more than one hundred and fifty
officially recognized museums, and if you add in all the
smaller institutions and galleries, that number sore is even higher.
(34:26):
So some of the city's most famous repositories include the
Palazzio de Beas Artes, which is the city's premier fine
arts museum, the Museo Nacional de Entropoli HIHA, which has
the best collection of Mexico's pre Hispanic artifacts, and La
Casa Azul, or the Blue House, which is the home
turned museum of renowned Mexican artist Free to Collo. But
(34:50):
if you astray a little off the beaten track, you'll
also find museums devoted to the history of caricatures, vintage toys,
herbal medicine, and just about anything else you can think of,
including both tequila and polka.
Speaker 1 (35:04):
That actually sounds so fun.
Speaker 2 (35:05):
I'd be all about it.
Speaker 1 (35:07):
Here's a quick one. Back in twenty seventeen, Mexico City
became the first city in the world to launch its
own official set of emojis. More than two thousand designs
were submitted through a contest run by the municipal government,
and from that twenty symbols were chosen to represent all
of the different aspects of the city's culture. So the
highlights were to include the popular street food elote, the
(35:29):
corn dish, the face of Frita Callo, one of the
party boats we talked about riding along those canals, and
of course an axe Lottel eating a torda. I love that.
Like an ax lottel was just cute enough. It also
had to be more Mexico City. There were so many
(35:49):
great submissions that the government ultimately decided to release way
more than the initial twenty. They planned more than two
hundred designs in total. The package was made available for
free through the emoji See You DoD the Mexico app,
and that means that anyone, including non residents, can use them. Wow.
Speaker 2 (36:08):
Well, it is not quite as highbrow as the city's
museum scene or you know, an all subway tour of
the city. But I love the idea of a whole
stack of Mexico City specific emojis. I think you get
the trophy this week. Congrats Mango.
Speaker 1 (36:26):
I know we've got to download them all, and it's
obviously tough to compete with the tor To eating axe Lottel. Yeah.
That wraps things up for today's Part Time Genius from Gabe, Mary, Dylan,
Will and myself. Thank you so much for listening. If
you enjoyed this episode, please come say hi on Instagram
we are waiting at Part Time Genius, or leave us
a review on Apple Podcast. We do read them all
(36:48):
and we take them to heart. I know we've barely
scratched the surface of all the amazing things Mexico City has.
We didn't talk about luchadors with the arts or even
get into some of the specific neighborhoods that are so fast,
So please be sure to tell us what we missed
and maybe we'll throw it all into another episode in
the meantime. Thank you so much for listening. Part Time
(37:22):
Genius is a production of Kaleidoscope and iHeartRadio. This show
is hosted by Will Pearson and me Mongish Heatikler and
research by our good pal Mary Philip Sandy. Today's episode
was engineered and produced by the wonderful Dylan Fagan with
support from Tyler Klang. The show is executive produced for
iHeart by Katrina Norvel and Ali Perry, with social media
(37:44):
support from Sasha Gay, trustee Dara Potts and buy Any Shorey.
For more podcasts from Kaleidoscope and iHeartRadio, visit the iHeartRadio app,
Apple Podcasts, or wherever you listen to your favorite shows
them
You're listening to Part Time Genius, the production of Kaleidoscope
and iHeartRadio.
Speaker 2 (00:23):
Guess what Mango?
Speaker 1 (00:24):
What's that gave?
Speaker 2 (00:25):
So you know how the capital of Mexico is Mexico City.
Speaker 1 (00:29):
Yeah, I mean I've played a lot of carbon San
Diego as a kid. All right.
Speaker 2 (00:33):
Well, the funny thing is that it wasn't technically true
when you first learned it. How do you mean, Well,
until recently, the official name of Mexico's capital was the
Distrata Federal, the Federal District, or DF for short, and
that was the name that was on the books for
nearly two hundred years, but it never caught on in
(00:54):
other countries.
Speaker 1 (00:55):
So Mexico City wasn't officially called Mexico City. That's so bizarre.
How come?
Speaker 2 (01:01):
Well it's because most countries have their own federal districts,
so you know, it could get confusing if people don't
know which one you're referring to. So instead, people just
kept calling the capital Mexico City, which was the district's
original name. That's what it was called prior to Mexico
winning its independence from Spain way back in the eighteen twenties.
Speaker 1 (01:20):
Oh, that's fascinating. So it was Mexico City, then it
was in Mexico City, and now it's Mexico City again,
Like why to change?
Speaker 2 (01:29):
All right? Well, so you know how in Washington, DC,
there's a movement to get representation in Congress. Sure, Well,
in Mexico City, there's been this ongoing effort for the
last forty years to help the district become more autonomous,
and in twenty sixteen, then President Enrique pinonetto champion that
caused in a big way when he officially rebranded the
(01:50):
capital Mexico City. The restructuring from a district to a
city granted it new political rights, including the ability to
set its own budgets and even adopt its own constitution,
which it did in twenty seventeen.
Speaker 1 (02:03):
So there's so much trivia, like global trivia that I loved,
like that there was a part of Bangladesh that was
in India, that was in Bangladesh that was in India. Similarly,
the idea that Mexico City is not Mexico City. But
I feel like that's a fact I would have dined
out on for a very very long time.
Speaker 2 (02:23):
Yeah, it's tough to keep straight, but in this case,
it's actually more than just trivia. And that's because one
of the most unique aspects of Mexico City is the
way it embraces both tradition and modernity. So on one hand,
adopting the old name of Mexico City is a nod
to the region's past, but it's also a nod to
the future, like one where the city is hopefully less
(02:45):
beholden to the federal government and has more of a
voice in how it's governed. But that's just one of
the many connections between the past and the present in
Mexico City. There's a lot more to explore in today's travelogue,
so let's dive in.
Speaker 1 (03:19):
Hey, their podcast listeners, and welcome to Part Time Genius.
I'm Mongish particular, and today I'm joined by my good
friend and writer researcher extraordinary for this show, Gabe lucy A.
And on the other side of the soundproof glass downing
a bottle of coconut flavored electro lit that is our
friend and producer Dylan Fagan and watch him go. Apparently,
(03:43):
the drink is a summer staple in Mexico City because
it's load with electrolytes to help you stay hydrated in
the high heat.
Speaker 2 (03:50):
Yeah, but our studios air conditions. So why is Dylan drinking?
Speaker 1 (03:56):
I'm guessing it has something to do with the fact
that he was doing all those guitar solos with shredding
in there for hours and hours. When you're practicing to
leave it out all on the stage, you really need
to hydrate.
Speaker 2 (04:06):
Yeah, I've heard Keith Richards was also big on hydration
for that same reason. So is this kind of like
Mexico's answer to Gatorade because this bottle looks way more medicinal.
Speaker 1 (04:19):
Yeah, apparently electroly it tends to be less sugary, and
it's a little closer to what you'd find in an
actual IV drip. But just like Gatorade, the drink is
stocked at convenience stores and consumed by just about everyone,
not just athletes. It also predates Gatorade by about fifteen years,
having been invented in nineteen fifty, and this was in
(04:39):
the midst of a cholera epidemic. The oral rehydration solution,
which is also known as suero in Mexico. It helped
save thousands of children's lives during this crisis, and ever
since it's been the drink of choice not just for
sick children, but for local athletes, hikers, or anyone else
who feels a little out of sorts in the there.
(05:00):
But there's actually another reason why the drink is so
popular in Mexico City in particular, and that's because the
region's high altitude. It's sometimes easy to forget since we
usually associate high altitudes with cold temperatures, but Mexico's capital
is actually twenty two hundred meters above sea level, or
nearly a mile and a half. So it's pretty common
(05:21):
for visitors to feel lightheaded or tired shortly after their arrival.
But thankfully that can be easily fixed with a bottle
or two of electrolt.
Speaker 2 (05:31):
All right, well, I just want to point out that
part time Genius is not sponsored by Electrolyte.
Speaker 1 (05:37):
I mean, I just want to point out to the
sponsors that we are open to it.
Speaker 2 (05:43):
Yeah, okay, obviously, But now, okay, So I know you
mentioned the elevation, but Mexico City's geography is unusual in
lots of other ways too. For instance, another thing that's
easy to overlook is that the current city is built
on top of a dried up lake bed those seven
hundred years ago the Mashika, who later became known better
(06:04):
known as the Aztecs. They built the original Mexico city
on an island in Lake tex Coco, but after the
Spanish invaded in the fifteen twenties, the lake was drained
to allow for greater expansion.
Speaker 1 (06:15):
You know, I've always loved that story that the Aztecs
built their city on an island in the middle of
a lake. But do you actually know the rationale for that,
because I feel like I've always heard that but never
knew why they chose to do that.
Speaker 2 (06:27):
Yeah, it seems like a strange place to build a city,
but with the lake and the surrounding mountains, it was
a pretty secure place to build a city. Plus it
had its own built in water supply. But according to legend,
the real reason why the Aztec settled there was the
fulfillment of an ancient prophecy. They were in their nomadic
phase in the early fourteenth century, wandering from one place
(06:47):
to the next, but they believed that their gods would
eventually show them where to settle by sending a very
distinctive sign an eagle perched atop a cactus eating a snake,
and what do you know, it one day thirteen twenty five,
while passing by Lake tex Coco, they looked out to
a small island and saw exactly that. So with that
divine stamp of approval, the Aztec set out to build
(07:09):
an elaborate floating city, which they called Tenosh Teethlon, or
Place of the Prickly Pear Cactus.
Speaker 1 (07:17):
It's funny because I hadn't associated the two with one another,
but like that image of a golden eagle standing on
a cactus chomping on a snake, that's actually the image
on Mexico's flag.
Speaker 2 (07:28):
Right, yeah, exactly. It became a foundational symbol pretty much
for the entire country, with the eagle representing the spirit
of the Mexican people, and Tanosh Teethlan itself was, you know,
pretty incredible. The city was built across a series of
natural and artificial islands, the ladder of which were created
using soil dredged from the lake bottom, and the city
(07:49):
was laid out in a symmetrical grid, with four sectors
surrounding a central area, which is where all the temples
and palaces were located. But most impressively, the different sectors
were connected to each other by four causeways or elevated roads,
which also acted as barriers to separate the lake's brackish
saltwater from its fresh water, so residents could also get
(08:10):
around the city by boat thanks to this elaborate system
of canals, a feature for which the Spanish would later
dub tanosh Titlan the Venice of the New World. So
for the next two hundred years, the Aztecs thrived in
this floating capital. They conquered other tribes throughout the region,
and eventually they became the largest and most populous city
(08:31):
in pre Columbian America, covering more than five square miles
and boasting upwards of two hundred thousand citizens.
Speaker 1 (08:39):
You think about this then, like the symmetry of the
structures here, the fact that they built islands, It just
sounds so impressive. They built up this real civilization. And
then the Spanish cam right.
Speaker 2 (08:52):
Yeah, Spanish explorer Hernand Cortes showed up in fifteen nineteen
and he immediately set his eyes on the Aztec sophisticated
city and all the treasure that he assumed was stored
inside of it. He spent the next two years securing
the support of local tribes who were you know, itching
to overthrow the Aztecs, and then in fifteen twenty one,
he and his troops laid siege to tein O Schtiethln.
(09:15):
The battle lasted for ninety three days and a large
portion of the city was destroyed in the fighting. So
once the Aztec surrendered, the Spanish looted and burned most
of what remained. Then they drained the surrounding lake and
built Spain's new colonial center right on top of the ruins,
creating what we know today as Mexico City.
Speaker 1 (09:35):
You know, it's one of those things that, like, it
always astounds me that the conquistadors just like came in
as one culture, wiping out another culture just to take
what they wanted.
Speaker 2 (09:44):
Right, Yeah, it's a shame. And you know, the detail
that really gets to me is that the Spanish used
many of the same stones from Tano Schteethlan in the
construction of their new city. So, for instance, one of
the most famous buildings in the Zocallo that's Mexico City's
main PubL book square is the Metropolitan Cathedral. It's the
largest cathedral in Latin America and it was built directly
(10:07):
on top of the Templo Mayor, the Sacred Temple complex
at the heart of the Aztec capital. It's such a
stark physical symbol of one culture, just kind of railroading
and building over another. Like there's no subtext here, it
is all text.
Speaker 1 (10:22):
There's actually an interesting PostScript to this that might make
you feel a bit better. So the Metropolitan Cathedral is
a very very big building, as you said, and since
it's made of stone, it's also incredibly heavy, and it
is so heavy, in fact, that it's actually sinking into
the ground, with its south wing now almost a full
(10:43):
meter lower than the rest of it. This development wasn't
surprising in itself, because all of Mexico City is sinking
by as much as fifteen inches per year because it's
built on a lake bed right exactly. But the cathedral
slow descent turned out to be a special case because
the lower got, the more visible the ancient structures beneath
it became. And what's amazing is that, like archaeologists hadn't
(11:06):
been able to pinpoint the temple's exact location, but in
the nineteen seventies they started finding engraved stone discs and
other artifacts around the cathedral sinking base, and these discoveries
led to extensive excavation, and now the remains of this
temple Mayora are actually on full display for visitors. There's
even a museum next door that spotlights many of the
(11:28):
relics unearthed there.
Speaker 2 (11:29):
It really just goes to show you can't keep a
good temple down. My mom always said that, Yeah. It
is amazing though, that the European conquerors they tried to
bury the region's past, but it literally rose to the
surface in this case, and now it sounds like the
city's kind of safeguarding it for the future. It actually
(11:50):
reminds me of this quote. I came across on a
site called Escaping Worlds. So this reporter, Lisy, she spoke
to a bunch of Mexico City natives to get, you know,
local perspective on the culture. And one of the people
she talked to was this middle aged mechanic named Pedro.
He tied the city's pass to the president in a
really lovely way, so I wanted to share it, he said.
(12:12):
Quote as tech legend says, Cortes burned the feet of
our last as tech emperor because he was looking for
his treasure. He would ask where is the treasure? And
the emperor said, admire my treasure. It is before your eyes.
He never understood that the Mexican treasure is the people,
the town. Get to know the people and the country.
Don't base your thoughts of Mexico on what the news says.
(12:35):
We are more than bad news, tacos and beer.
Speaker 1 (12:39):
Although I do love tacos, and I feel like that's
a lot more insightful than I think my mechanic has
ever told me. Who just tells me I need to
rotate my tires more?
Speaker 2 (12:50):
Well, I mean I've heard that's important too. But before
before we start the next leg of our tour, why
don't we take a quick break.
Speaker 1 (13:10):
You're listening to part Time Genius, and we're talking all
about the many links between ancient Aztec civilization and modern
Mexico City today. So, Gabe, we just spent a little
time on Zacalo, which of course is a must for
anyone who visits the Mexican capital, but now want to
head south to a neighborhood called Hochi Milco, or as
(13:31):
it's known in English, the Land of Flowers. It is
a very special part of the city because it's home
to the original Aztec cities last remaining waterways.
Speaker 2 (13:40):
Oh no way. I thought the Spanish strained the city's
lake when they took it over.
Speaker 1 (13:45):
Yeah, but apparently like a handful of lagoons remained in
the Mexico City basin, and the ones here are especially
notable because they were and still are a vital source
of food for the city. You know, you mentioned earlier
that the Aztec extended the city's area by creating all
these man made islands that were just above the water line. Well,
(14:07):
those basically functioned as floating gardens, and farmers built rafts
out of reeds, covered them in mud, and cultivated fruit
and vegetables right there on the water. And as time
went on, the rafts gradually rooted to the bottom of
the lake and became islands.
Speaker 2 (14:22):
That's incredible. These guys are so ahead of their time.
But you said these gardens are still in use today.
Speaker 1 (14:28):
Yeah, so some of them are. Chinampas, as the islands
are called, were a main source of food for the
city prior to the twentieth century, but rapid urbanization it
obviously took a heavy toll on the practice. That said,
Chinampa farming has been making this steady comeback in recent decades,
and as many of these sort of like homegrown practices did.
(14:49):
It actually got quite a boost from COVID nineteen and
the pandemic when the industrial food supply was disrupted, and
that whole chain was sort of like picked apart local
farmers and rehabilitating chinampas to feed their city. And the
project proved so successful that it's continued ever since, with
more chinampas being restored every year.
Speaker 2 (15:09):
I'm kind of surprised they were able to grow enough
food to make a difference like that, because I pulled
up a picture here and these aren't very big islands.
It's like maybe an acre or two tops.
Speaker 1 (15:20):
Don't let their size fool you, because according to our
friends at Atlas Obscura, chinampas are actually one of the
most productive forms of agriculture in the world. They produce
as many a seven harvest per year, which this is
astounding to me. And because of the rich lake soil
and warm climate, they can grow just about anything, so
you can have greens, herbs, flowers, fruits, you name it,
(15:42):
which is how the Aztecs were able to sustain two
hundred thousand people in such a small space.
Speaker 2 (15:47):
Yeah, that explains it. I mean seven harvests a year
is really quite a lot.
Speaker 1 (15:52):
That's crazy.
Speaker 2 (15:54):
I am curious though, are the Chinampas off limits to
everyone but farmers or is this something that's you know,
opened to the public.
Speaker 1 (16:02):
I love that idea that like I would tease you
about going there and then like you would actually show
up and couldn't visit.
Speaker 2 (16:09):
Travel destination you can't visit.
Speaker 1 (16:13):
I mean, we probably should do an episode on just
travel destinations you can't visit. But uh, you should absolutely
check this one out. There's about one hundred miles of
murky canals weaving through the Chinampas there, and visitors are
welcome to explore them aboard these colorful flat bottomed boats
they're called trahinneras, and you can do that or you
can actually take a guided kayak tour. You should keep
(16:36):
in mind that the trahinias provide more of a party atmosphere,
so they can cloud and crowded, and they tend to
like bump into each other a lot. So if you're
looking for a more relaxed, informative visit, maybe the kayak
tours more your speed. Uh. The kayak tours also provide
a great chance to see the wildlife up close in
this region, including more than two hundred species of birds,
(17:00):
as well as the elusive axe lottel.
Speaker 2 (17:03):
Oh okay, you've piqued my interest. I love those weird
looking salamanders. They've got those feathery gills on the side
of their heads.
Speaker 1 (17:11):
I know, they are so cute and so weird and
just so great. You know. And while most of the
axe lottles actually alive today were bread and captivity, either
as pets or as research subjects. That's actually what makes
Mexico City so special in this regard. They are the
last wild population of Acx lottls in the world. And
(17:32):
these foot long amphibians, I actually didn't realize they were
foot long, like I thought they were tinier. They used
to thrive in the lakes surrounding Mexico City, but thanks
to habitat loss and water pollution, they now exist solely
in these canals. Wow.
Speaker 2 (17:46):
Yeah, I had no idea they could get that big either,
And I also didn't know that Mexico City was the
best place to find them. Do we know how many
of these little critters are left out there?
Speaker 1 (17:56):
So the current estimate is between fifty and one thousand,
which is few enough to qualify the species as critically endangered,
but it is so hard to get an exact count
because these little guys aren't easy to spot in this
like murky water. And that's partially because there's another difference
between the axe lottles that are bred, which are pink
(18:18):
and white in color due to a genetic mutation, but
these wild axe lottles, they're basically brown or gray, so
they kind of blend in with the water.
Speaker 2 (18:29):
But they're amphibians, right, So why can't we just you know,
count them when they come onto the land.
Speaker 1 (18:33):
Yeah, that's something I was wondering too. But it turns
out that axe lottels do this strange thing where they
retain their juvenile characteristics into adulthood. So that's why their
like eyes and limbs look too small for their bodies.
Speaker 2 (18:44):
And they've got that fin thing that runs down the
length of their whole body.
Speaker 1 (18:49):
Yeah, and that external guill, that feathery thing that you mentioned.
Most amphibians lose those by the time they reach adulthood,
but axe lottles keep theirs, and they actually stay aquatic
for life. They do have functional lungs, so they could
go on land. It's not off limits to them, but
they just prefer life in the water.
Speaker 2 (19:07):
Well fair enough. I mean, I love how bas are
they are. It's really quite endearing. But it makes you wonder, like,
what did the Aztecs think of these little weirdos swimming
all over their city?
Speaker 1 (19:20):
They must have been aware of them, yeah, I mean,
they definitely were. The word axe lottle comes from the
name for the Aztec god of fire and lightning, So
I mean, I guess they have a pretty high opinion
of these creatures, or at least thought there was, you know,
something cool about them or unusual about them, which of
course there is. You know.
Speaker 2 (19:38):
It is sad to think, though, that the species could
disappear from Mexico after all this time.
Speaker 1 (19:43):
So there is a little bit of promising news on
their front. Over the last few years, researchers have been
working closely with Chinampa farmers or chinamperos to create dozens
of axe lottle sanctuaries among the floating gardens. They've installed
these bamboo cates along the shores to protect the creatures
from invasive species. These are things like carp or tilapia,
(20:06):
and they've also started relocating some of the ax lottels
from the main canal systems to a series of interconnected
ditches in the middle of certain shinapas. Of course, there
are also a couple of places to see axe lottls
outside of the canals. The Chapultepec Zoo has a special
section devoted to the Mexican amphibians, and there's another museum
(20:26):
in Preserve located in Park Tarango, which is an eco park.
Speaker 2 (20:30):
I love that. Lots of options to see these guys.
And you know, we've talked a little bit about exploring
Mexico by boat, but there's a super strange and important
rule about driving in Mexico City that every visitor should
know ahead of time, and I want to tell you
all about it right after this break.
Speaker 1 (20:47):
Can't wait.
Speaker 2 (21:02):
Welcome back to part time genius. Okay, Mango. So, one
thing that might surprise first time visitors to Mexico City
is the sheer size of the place. The metropolitan area
spans five hundred and thirty seven square miles and is
home to just under twenty three million people. That's over
one hundred square miles more than New York City and
nearly three times the population.
Speaker 1 (21:24):
That is so many people to cram into a lake
bed it I know in one place where you'll really
feel the pinch is on the city's crowded highways. There
are about five million vehicles registered in Mexico City and
just as many more in the surrounding state of Estado
de Mexico, and as you'd expect, the resulting gridlock is
(21:46):
pretty unbearable, with the average resident spending roughly two hundred
and twenty seven hours stuck in traffic each year. That
is insane. You know, I have lived in Atlanta, which
has a traffic issue. I've lived in New York, I've
lived in Bombay, which also has insane traffic. But spending
(22:07):
two hundred and twenty seven hours stuck in traffic each year,
that's like ten full days in traffic. How do people
stand that?
Speaker 2 (22:14):
It's awful? You know, that's been one of the main
knocks against the city for decades, which is not to
say the city officials haven't tried to solve the problem.
For example, the most sweeping measure they've tried is this
government program where you're only allowed to drive on certain
days of the week, and the days when you can't
drive are determined by the last digit on your license plate. So,
(22:36):
for example, if your plate ends in a seven or
an eight, then you can't drive your car on Tuesdays,
and if it ends in a one or two, then
you're barred from the road on Thursdays. That is wild,
but I guess there's a certain logic to it. So
what do you think is the worst number to get
stuck with? Like, is there one that blocks you from
driving on Saturdays?
Speaker 1 (22:54):
Or yeah?
Speaker 2 (22:56):
Kind of So. The program was started in nineteen eighty
nine as a way to help improve the city's air
quality while also cutting down on commuter traffic. So at first,
the restrictions only applied on weekdays and only to drivers
whose cars didn't meet certain emission standards. But as time
went on and as pollution and traffic congestion continued to worsen,
(23:17):
the scope of the program broadened a bit. So as
a result, vehicles that only meet the weakest emission standards
are now barred from the road on certain Saturdays as well.
Vehicles with odd numbered plates have to stay home on
the first and third Saturdays of the month, and those
with even numbered plates can't go out on the second
and fourth Saturdays. It's a lot to keep track of,
(23:41):
but it's worth noting that the no Drive program only
applies between the hours of five am and ten pm,
so there is the seven hour window each day when
anyone can drive without restriction.
Speaker 1 (23:56):
It's when the teens hit the cars and just cruise.
I do feel like there should be an app to
keep track of all this, right, Like, I honestly feel
like I would be so bad at maintaining the calendar
for this.
Speaker 2 (24:10):
Yeah, it is not the most popular program in Mexico City,
as you can imagine. Opponents argue, you know that it's
a pain to navigate, which it is, and it hasn't
accomplished either of its stated missions so far.
Speaker 1 (24:22):
And oh noll.
Speaker 2 (24:23):
Worst of all, though, it mostly restricts low income residents
as they tend to drive older, high emission vehicles. And
of course it's led to some funny skirting of the
rules because of that, Like some folks own multiple license
plates and swap them out as needed, you know, to
get that terminating digit for the day.
Speaker 1 (24:43):
That is very sneaky. So in theory, if someone was
able to source five license plates with the right end digits,
that they could drive with impunity any day of the week,
whatever hoop do you were driving, you could get away
with this.
Speaker 2 (24:57):
Right, yeah, right, but again, theoretically, we're not suggesting that
listeners break international law just to avoid riding the bus
on a Wednesday.
Speaker 1 (25:05):
Don't do that. So is this like a locals only
kind of thing, or is this something that applied to
unite like foreigners as well?
Speaker 2 (25:13):
Oh yeah, yeah, no, the program absolutely applies to Taurus.
In fact, it's even more stringent for US because drivers
with foreign plates are actually barred from driving on every
Saturday as a month.
Speaker 1 (25:26):
That's almost easier though, twitch ones.
Speaker 2 (25:30):
Consult your calendar, right, But you know, while visitors can
register for an exemption ahead of their visit, if you forget,
you'll be subject to the same penalties for non compliance
as the locals are. What does that mean Exactly, it's
just a small fine, but when you factor in the
towing and impound fees, you're still probably looking at a
few hundred US dollars, not to mention at least half
(25:52):
a day lost of your vacation. I mean nothing to
sneeze at.
Speaker 1 (25:55):
No, completely. I feel like I've been on trips where
a car is conked out like a rental car. It
really throws off your timeline and schedule and feels a
waste of time. So I feel like anyone who's listening
should definitely apply for that tourist pass if you plan
to visit my car right.
Speaker 2 (26:11):
Or better, yeah, leave your car at home and travel
some other way instead. It will still be intensely crowded
at the airport and on the subway, but at least
you won't get fined for, you know, forgetting what day
it is.
Speaker 1 (26:23):
Speaking of the subway system, El Metro, as it's known
in Mexico City, that's another thing that might seem overwhelming
to first timers. It has three lines, one hundred and
ninety five stations, and about five million people rid it
every day. But the surprising part is that it is
shockingly easy to navigate. All of the stations are clearly
(26:45):
marked above ground, and each one has a unique icon,
which is usually something associated with the history or culture
of that location. So, for example, if you want to
visit the famous Chapultepec Park, you'd look for the stop
labeled with the grasshopper, because Chapultepec means the hill of
the grasshoppers.
Speaker 2 (27:03):
A subway icon system is such a good idea, But
what's the significance of the grasshopper is the you know,
is the park just like swarming with him or what
is it?
Speaker 1 (27:14):
So no one really knows if the name is meant
to refer to the shape of the hill or its
abundance of grasshoppers, but the insects have obviously been this
important part of Mexican culture and cuisine. This goes all
the way back to the Aztec, so it's only fitting
that they get their own metro stop. But the coolest
part of the Mexico City subway system is that some
(27:36):
of the stations also double as attractions in their own right. So,
for instance, the Vivero's station is named for the popular
plant nursery nearby, but there's also plenty of greenery right
there underground. The entire station is made to look like
a rainforest. It is complete with all these like imitation trees, animals,
(27:56):
and even a suspended rope bridge above this salters. It's
really pretty remarkable, and if you prefer your subway animal
exhibits to be a bit more authentic, you also can
hop over to the Talisman station, which uses a woolly
mammoth for its logo.
Speaker 2 (28:15):
Oh WHOA please make my day? Tell me they've got
a livew myth down there.
Speaker 1 (28:22):
Not a live mammoth, but at least not yet. They
have bought one from Colossal Bussi. But they do have
the next best thing. Back in nineteen seventy eight, when
the station was under construction, the workers unearthed this nearly
complete mammoth skeleton and the states all the way back
to the ice age. But rather than ship it off
(28:44):
to the museum, they decide to put the fossils right
on display there where the animal died. It is pretty remarkable.
Speaker 2 (28:51):
Yeah, that's so fun. And you know, I love the
idea of visiting Mexico City, specifically for the metro stops.
Would it be to just tour all the station attractions
and not actually go above ground?
Speaker 1 (29:06):
I feel like it would be a good story. I'm
not sure it's how I would want to spend my vacation,
but I like it. On the plus side, it would
be pretty cheap or budget friendly, Like the Metro fair
for one ride is just five pesos, so about twenty
five US cents.
Speaker 2 (29:20):
Oh well, I mean that settles it right there. Pack
your bags, kids, we're heading for l Metro.
Speaker 1 (29:28):
I mean, you can take my kids. I'm totally happy
with that. But before you go, let's take a quick
detour and they hit up our back off. You could
sapple dishes from all thirty one states in the Mexican capital.
But if you want to try a homegrown specialty, head
(29:50):
to a vendor on just about any street in Mexico
City and grab yourself a guahalota. This simple carb on
carbs which this of a steamed corn dough toamaal stuffed
inside a bread roll. That is it. It is cheap,
it is filling, it is highly portable. These sandwiches are
typically eaten at breakfast and especially popular with commuters and students.
(30:14):
And although the name is derived from the Nawattle word
for turkey, the bird actually isn't an ingredient. Instead, most
vendors use tamales filled with chicken, pork or chile pablana.
Speaker 2 (30:26):
That is quite a hearty breakfast. But why call the
sandwich turkey if it doesn't include turkey?
Speaker 1 (30:32):
You know, it's another one of these things that no
one really knows. But some people think it's because the
round bread rolls resemble a turkey breast, and others say
it's because of the sandwich is so high in calories
that it'll fatten you up like a turkey.
Speaker 2 (30:46):
Oh, well, I suppose both could be true. But okay,
here's a dish to try if you're feeling fancy and
a little daring on your next vacation. It's often referred
to as Mexican caviar, but locals know it better as
awa utla, or seeds of joy. Your own level of
joy may vary when you try this dish, though, because
these seeds in question are actually the eggs of an
(31:08):
ancient aquatic insect, the axayactyl, the waterfly said to have
an intense fishy flavor. The tiny golden eggs are often
used to make a savory pancake that's traditionally served with
a tomatillo and serrano chili sauce. The practice dates back
to the days of the Aztec Empire, when the fli's
eggs were considered a sacred food of the gods. They
(31:30):
were harvested from Lake tex Coco during the rainy season
and were used for religious ceremonies as well as in
the emperor's meals. And while they may no longer be
thought of as sacred, the eggs are still a prize
delicacy in the Mexican capital. The only problem is there's
a lot less water in the lake today, which means
much fewer eggs to harvest. As a result, only a
(31:52):
handful of restaurants in Mexico City still serve awa utle,
and the ones that do charge a pretty peso for it.
Into the Mexico News Daily, the average price of waterfly
eggs was about twenty three dollars per pound in twenty
twenty two, and with more of lake text cocoa drying
up each year, that price is bound to rise even higher.
Speaker 1 (32:14):
I mean, can you really put a price on an
ancient insect egg pancake?
Speaker 2 (32:19):
Well, in my case, I don't think there's any price
I would pay.
Speaker 1 (32:23):
But I mean it's not that different from like Llini's
and caviar, right if the taste it's like the image
that's hard to process in some ways.
Speaker 2 (32:34):
Okay, yeah, well I'm not eating that either, But.
Speaker 1 (32:37):
Well, for anyone who does try it, I've got the
perfect beverage to pair with it. It's called polke. It's
made from the fermented sap of the agave, the same
plant that's used to make tequila and mezcal. But Polke
is believed to be Mexico's oldest alcoholic drink. Oh, it's
kind of like their meat or something much like waterfly caviar.
(33:00):
The Aztecs considered polke a sacred gift from the gods,
and only emperors and their priests were allowed to drink it.
But when the Aztec Empire fell, polk became this drink
for the people and it was widely consumed throughout central Mexico. Now,
the popularity of the milky white beverage waned following the
introduction of beer and distilled spirits in the sixteenth century,
(33:21):
but polka never fully disappeared, and today the drinks experiencing
this cultural resurgence. In Mexico City, you'll find numerous bars
specializing in pulk known as pulcarias, and you can actually
buy big plastic cups of it at street markets and
also from floating vendors in the canals, which Cool's got
a special and for anyone wondering what pulk tastes like,
(33:44):
it's slightly sour and yeastya kind of like a kombucha
but with a touch of sweetness, and the alcohol content
is comparable to beer. You can also find flavored versions
of it, so there's everything from like guava to celery,
and as as long as you're of age, there's really no.
Speaker 2 (34:02):
Excuse not to try it sounds good. But moving away
from food and drink for a second, did you know
that Mexico City boasts the most museums of any city
outside of Europe? Second only, Yeah, right, second only to London.
The Mexican capital has more than one hundred and fifty
officially recognized museums, and if you add in all the
smaller institutions and galleries, that number sore is even higher.
(34:26):
So some of the city's most famous repositories include the
Palazzio de Beas Artes, which is the city's premier fine
arts museum, the Museo Nacional de Entropoli HIHA, which has
the best collection of Mexico's pre Hispanic artifacts, and La
Casa Azul, or the Blue House, which is the home
turned museum of renowned Mexican artist Free to Collo. But
(34:50):
if you astray a little off the beaten track, you'll
also find museums devoted to the history of caricatures, vintage toys,
herbal medicine, and just about anything else you can think of,
including both tequila and polka.
Speaker 1 (35:04):
That actually sounds so fun.
Speaker 2 (35:05):
I'd be all about it.
Speaker 1 (35:07):
Here's a quick one. Back in twenty seventeen, Mexico City
became the first city in the world to launch its
own official set of emojis. More than two thousand designs
were submitted through a contest run by the municipal government,
and from that twenty symbols were chosen to represent all
of the different aspects of the city's culture. So the
highlights were to include the popular street food elote, the
(35:29):
corn dish, the face of Frita Callo, one of the
party boats we talked about riding along those canals, and
of course an axe Lottel eating a torda. I love that.
Like an ax lottel was just cute enough. It also
had to be more Mexico City. There were so many
(35:49):
great submissions that the government ultimately decided to release way
more than the initial twenty. They planned more than two
hundred designs in total. The package was made available for
free through the emoji See You DoD the Mexico app,
and that means that anyone, including non residents, can use them. Wow.
Speaker 2 (36:08):
Well, it is not quite as highbrow as the city's
museum scene or you know, an all subway tour of
the city. But I love the idea of a whole
stack of Mexico City specific emojis. I think you get
the trophy this week. Congrats Mango.
Speaker 1 (36:26):
I know we've got to download them all, and it's
obviously tough to compete with the tor To eating axe Lottel. Yeah.
That wraps things up for today's Part Time Genius from Gabe, Mary, Dylan,
Will and myself. Thank you so much for listening. If
you enjoyed this episode, please come say hi on Instagram
we are waiting at Part Time Genius, or leave us
a review on Apple Podcast. We do read them all
(36:48):
and we take them to heart. I know we've barely
scratched the surface of all the amazing things Mexico City has.
We didn't talk about luchadors with the arts or even
get into some of the specific neighborhoods that are so fast,
So please be sure to tell us what we missed
and maybe we'll throw it all into another episode in
the meantime. Thank you so much for listening. Part Time
(37:22):
Genius is a production of Kaleidoscope and iHeartRadio. This show
is hosted by Will Pearson and me Mongish Heatikler and
research by our good pal Mary Philip Sandy. Today's episode
was engineered and produced by the wonderful Dylan Fagan with
support from Tyler Klang. The show is executive produced for
iHeart by Katrina Norvel and Ali Perry, with social media
(37:44):
support from Sasha Gay, trustee Dara Potts and buy Any Shorey.
For more podcasts from Kaleidoscope and iHeartRadio, visit the iHeartRadio app,
Apple Podcasts, or wherever you listen to your favorite shows
them
Part-Time Genius News
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Mangesh Hattikudur
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