All Episodes

July 12, 2023 36 mins

This edition of eponymous food stories involves two noodle dishes, and both of them are classic comfort foods that you can easily find in pre-made frozen versions in most grocery stores. But both of them started out as entrées for fancy people. 

Research:

  • Britannica, The Editors of Encyclopaedia. "Stroganov Family". Encyclopedia Britannica, 6 Apr. 2023, https://www.britannica.com/topic/Stroganov-family
  • Britannica, The Editors of Encyclopaedia. "Luisa Tetrazzini". Encyclopedia Britannica, 25 Jun. 2023, https://www.britannica.com/biography/Luisa-Tetrazzini
  • “Chicken Tetrazzini.” Daily News Republican. Oct. 30, 1909. https://www.newspapers.com/image/582035221/?terms=%22chicken%20Tetrazzini%22%20&match=1
  • Eremeeva, Jennifer. “The Definitive Beef Stroganoff.” The Moscow Times. Nov. 6, 2020. https://www.themoscowtimes.com/2019/02/20/the-definitive-beef-stroganov-a64566
  • Gattey, Charles Nelson. “Luisa Tetrazzini: the Florentine Nightingale.” Amadeus Press. 1995. Accessed online: https://archive.org/details/luisatetrazzinif0000gatt/page/144/mode/2up
  • Lew, Mike. “Beef Stroganoff Is Named for Who Exactly?” Bon Appetit. Jan. 16, 2014. https://www.bonappetit.com/entertaining-style/trends-news/article/origin-of-beef-stroganoff
  • Goldstein, Darra. “A Taste of Russia.” Russian Information Service. 1999.
  • Hillibish, Jim. “Tetrazzini Leftover Will Leave Them Singing.” The State Journal-Register. Nov. 22, 2022. https://www.sj-r.com/story/news/2012/11/23/tetrazzini-leftover-will-leave-them/45812546007/
  • Kurlansky, Mark. “Salt: A World History.” Thorndike Press. 2002.
  • “Luisa Tetrazzini, Diva, Dies in ” New York Times. April 29, 1940. https://timesmachine.nytimes.com/timesmachine/1940/04/29/92957232.pdf?pdf_redirect=true&ip=0
  • McNamee, Gregory Lewis. "beef Stroganoff". Encyclopedia Britannica, 31 Oct. 2022, https://www.britannica.com/topic/beef-Stroganoff
  • Peters, Erica J. “San Francisco: A Food Biography.” Rowman & Littlefield. 2013.
  • Price, Mary and Vincent. “A Treasury of Great Recipes.” Ampersand Press, 1965.
  • Rattray, Diana. “Chicken Tetrazzini Casserole.” The Spruce Eats. Nov. 11, 2021. https://www.thespruceeats.com/chicken-tetrazzini-3053005
  • Sifton, Sam. “Chicken Tetrazzini, the Casserole Even Snobs Love.” New York Times Magazine. Sept 29, 2016. https://www.nytimes.com/2016/10/02/magazine/chicken-tetrazzini-the-casserole-even-snobs-love.html
  • Snow, Glenna H. “Peasants of Russia Thrive on Monotonous, Though Well Balanced Diet, Says Editor.” The Akron Beacon Journal. May 14, 1934. https://www.newspapers.com/image/228861067/?terms=%22beef%20stroganoff%22%20&match=1
  • Syutkin, Pavel and Olga. “The History and Mystery of Beef Stroganoff.” Moscow Times. Dec. 3, 2022. https://www.themoscowtimes.com/2022/12/03/the-history-and-mystery-of-beef-stroganoff-a79582
  • “Tetrazzini Here, Meets With Injunction.” New York Times. Nov. 25, 1910. https://timesmachine.nytimes.com/timesmachine/1910/11/25/102052010.pdf?pdf_redirect=true&ip=0
  • Tetrazzini, Luisa. “My Life of Song.” Arno Press. 1977. (Reprint edition.) https://archive.org/details/mylifeofsong0000tetr/page/68/mode/2up
  • “To San Franciscans, I Am Luisa,” Declares Mme. Tetrazzini.” The San Francisco Chronicle. March 12, 1913. https://www.newspapers.com/image/457433091/?terms=Luisa%20Tetrazzini&match=2
  • “Turkey Tetrazzini.” Saveur. https://www.saveur.com/article/Recipes/Turkey-Tetrazzini/
  • Webster, Jessica. “Chicken Tetrazzini, or how I stopped worrying and learned to love the mess.” The Ann Arbor News. May 12, 2010. https://www.annarbor.com/entertainment/food-drink/giadas-chicken-tetrazzini/
  • Welch, Douglas. “Squirrel Cage.” The Tribune. May 17, 1967. https://www.newspapers.com/image/321669094/?terms=Luisa%20Tetrazzini&match=1
  • “Wh
Mark as Played
Transcript

Episode Transcript

Available transcripts are automatically generated. Complete accuracy is not guaranteed.
Speaker 1 (00:01):
Welcome to Stuff You Missed in History Class, a production
of iHeartRadio. Hello, and welcome to the podcast. I'm Holly
Frye and I'm Crazy v Wilson. It's time for another
eponymous foods episode. So exciting. I love these. This one

(00:22):
involves two noodle dishes, although one has variations on that
depending where you're at in the world, you might not
get it with noodles. Both of them are kind of
classic comfort foods that you can easily find nowadays in
pre made, frozen versions in most grocery stores. Still going
to be more delicious if you make it yourself, though,
I think that's a fair thing to say. But both

(00:43):
of them actually started out as dishes intended for fancy people.
The first one has a lot of possible people as
the namesake, although they are all in the same family.
That section is going to be the longest because there's
just more info to pick through. The second dish is
a case where it's a little more modern and we
know exactly who it's named for, but exactly when it

(01:06):
was created and by what chef or just person is
a little more fuzzy, So it's our oops all noodles episode.
I will say before we start that there are a
number of like pre made, packaged things that I will
just fight to the death for. Oh, I love I
love certain frozen foods. But yeah, even so, usually if

(01:27):
you make it yourself, it's still going to be that
much more delicious. So we're starting with beef strogan off,
which is a relatively simple dish to make. Normally, it's
made by sauting thinly sliced pieces of beef in butter
and then adding stock to finish cooking the meat, then
adding sour cream and seasoning and serving all of that

(01:50):
over a delicious starch. In North America, a lot of
the time that starch is egg noodles. Yeah, we'll talk
about some other variations in a bit. Beef stroganoff really
has its roots in frickasy. The term frickasy really just
means meat that's stewed in a white sauce or sauteed
with butter and then stewed in broth. Gregory Lewis mcnammy,

(02:12):
writing for Encyclopedia Britannica, notes that stroganoff is a variation
of frickasy du bouff, which is a French standard frickasy
de bouf. If you order it in a French restaurant today,
will include beef that has been sauteed in butter and
then stewed with vegetables in broth, and that's often served
over potatoes, although rice or noodles also sometimes make up

(02:33):
the stark tree base of the dish. So some of
the DNA really remains the same between frickasy du bouf
and beef Stroganoff, but the differences between the two have
become more pronounced. The roots are still absolutely French, although
the dish has evolved a little over time and it
kind of lends itself to improvisation, so there are many

(02:55):
many recipes for it floating around now. So where did
that come from? Though? It's generally agreed upon that this
is named for someone in the Stroganov family, but exactly
which member of that family is where it becomes tricky.
That is, in part because we're talking about a family
that was essentially a dynasty. The first mention of the

(03:18):
family name and the historical record is from Novgrod in
the fourteen hundreds, and then in the early sixteenth century,
a family member set up a salt mining operation. Forty
years later, Greery's Stroganov received a land grant from Tzar
Ivan the fourth That land was along the Chusavaya and

(03:39):
Kama rivers. That would have put it in the area
of Perm a little more than fourteen hundred kilometers east
of Moscow and more than eighteen hundred kilometers east of
Saint Petersburg. So this was really not an area that
was highly populated or well developed. And then the Stroganovs
built it up. And that build up included everything from

(04:00):
founding towns, to developing infrastructure, to attracting other residents, to
mounting an army, and the Stroganovs did all of this.
Part of the reason this was possible was because the
Tsar had exempted them from two decades of taxes as
they developed the area, so all of their family wealth
could be folded back into these development projects. They set

(04:22):
up a variety of business enterprises as well, including additional
salt mines, iron mines, and timber operations. As their towns
and business efforts grew in the sixteenth century, so too
did their land grant. In fifteen sixty eight, the Tsar
expanded their holdings. For contexts for North American listeners, this
is kind of similar to the way westward expansion happened

(04:45):
under the Homestead Act, with pioneers willing to set up
new towns and settlements in exchange for claims on that land.
Russia also had indigenous populations that were in these areas,
and new population that grew through the Stroganov settlement efforts
was often in conflict with those indigenous populations. Through assisting

(05:07):
the Russian government with expeditions, cozying up to the Tsar,
and the resulting additional land grants, the Stroganov family gained
a foothold in Siberia as well, and this was a
bold and strategic accomplishment that made the Stroganovs basically the
power in Siberia, and it also enabled them to continue
to grow their various industries of salt and iron mining,

(05:31):
fur trading, and lumber with no competition. At the end
of the sixteenth century and the beginning of the seventeenth
Russia went through a huge upheaval known as the Time
of Troubles. That could easily be a whole episode all
on its own, but the most pertinent aspects talking about
the Stroganov family is that it led to the end

(05:53):
of the Ruric dynasty and the beginning of Romanov rule.
During this transition, the Stroganov backed the Romanovs, and when
Mikhail Romanov became Czar in sixteen thirteen, they were in
a position to gain a great deal from this alliance
with Stroganovs had accumulated enough wealth that they were able
to essentially bankroll the launch of the Romanov dynasty. They

(06:17):
literally loaned the new dynasty money to shore up the
treasury that made them incredibly powerful. They gained a level
of near untouchable status within Russia. They did not answer
to any governing authority except Zar Romanov himself. The family
continued to prosper financially, but dwindled in number. By the

(06:40):
sixteen eighties. There was only one inheritor when Dmitri Andreya
Vish Stroganov died, and that was his son, Grigory Dmitrievitch Stroganov.
So all of that land and all of that power
basically passed to one man. Like his predecessors, he backed
the Romanov family and gied himself closely with Peter the First,

(07:02):
who you may also see mentioned as Peter the Great.
Peter had become Czar six years before Grigory inherited the
family fortune. When he was in control of the Stroganov wealth,
Grigory used it to bolster Peter the First's military, particularly
the navy. This further cemented the family's value to the Romanovs,
and over the next one hundred years, the titles held

(07:24):
by Stroganovs among the Russian nobility climbed higher and higher
in rank. This continued all the way up until the
October Revolution in nineteen seventeen. The Stroganov family was anti
Bolshevik and fought the Bolsheviks before leaving the country. We'll
talk more about what happened post nineteen seventeen from a

(07:45):
food standpoint, in just a moment. At this point, beef
Stroganov already existed and it had taken on a life
of its own. But for the Stroganov family that meant
that all the wealth and property and art they had
accumulated and had to leave behind became property of the state.
The Stroganov Palace in Saint Petersburg became national property and

(08:06):
was incorporated into the Russian Museum in nineteen ninety. Over
the years, a lot of the art collection and personal
effects from the family were auctioned off. There are as
we mentioned earlier several different theories about the origin of
beef Stroganov which generally uses the spelling with two f's
at the end instead of the V. You might see

(08:27):
it with a V, but usually it's the f's. All
of these versions have a French cook or chef in
the mix. The Romanov family really embraced European culture, and
the Stroganovs followed suit, so it makes sense that though
there are different locations to the various origins, it is
always from a kitchen run by a French chef. One
of the most popular versions of this story involves a

(08:49):
member of the family named Pavel Alexandrovitch Stroganov. Pavel was
born June eighteenth, seventeen seventy four in Paris, and that
was simply because at that point the Stroganovs were living
in the court of the newly crowned King Louis the sixteenth.
Pavel served in the military and then as a diplomat.
He was really accustomed to spending a lot of time

(09:12):
in Europe, and he was such a regular at the
French royal court that previous podcast subject Vige Lebromp painted
his portrait. Pavel Alexandrovitch Stroganov was allegedly visiting France when
a chef decided to create a special dish just for him,
or maybe he had hired a French chef to cook
for him at home. There are within this story even

(09:35):
different versions of what that dish actually was, So if
you read the Encyclopedia Britannica entry on be Stroganov, it
says the original one used mustard instead of sour cream.
But a nineteen ninety nine book published by the Russian
Information Service and written by Darren Goldstein states that sour
cream was added to a mustard sauce to create the

(09:57):
new and unique dish that would be fit for a
Russian diplomat. Pavel, unfortunately, would not have gotten to enjoy
this dish for terribly long, as he died of consumption
quite young, at the age of forty three at the
time he was at sea bound for Copenhagen. Coming up,
we will talk about another Stroganov who might be the
inspiration for this entree, but first we will pause for

(10:20):
a sponsor break. Another Stroganov, who is also cited as
the dish's inspiration, came right after Pavel, and that is
Alexander Grigorovitch Stroganov, who was born in seventeen ninety five

(10:41):
and served as Russia's Minister of the Interior before becoming
Governor General of Novorosia, an area that's part of modern
day Ukraine. Alexander lived in Odessa, and in that city
he was known almost as much for his love of
sharing food as he was for his statesmanship. He had
this practice that I really love, which is that anyone

(11:02):
was allowed to have dinner at his open table, and
the meals served there were prepared by French chefs and cooks.
And this version of the origin story suggests that one
of the French kitchen staff developed the beef stroganoff recipe
just because it was easy to make in large batches,
which was perfect when a surprise number of dinner guests
shows up. It's also easy to plate for large gathering.

(11:26):
Since the beef is thinly sliced as cooked in the
sauce doesn't involve a full cut of meat. It's really
easy to just ladle onto dishes as much as anybody needs.
But wait, there is still another story. Grigory Alexandrovitch Stroganof
was a contemporary of Alexander Grigorovitch. Gregory was born in

(11:47):
seventeen seventy and he was also known for his love
of food, so his chef is also credited with creating
beef Stroganoff, and rumors were that it was a matter
of practice cality. While Alexander's chefs are said to have
created this dish to serve very large parties, Gregory's chef

(12:07):
was catering, according to legend, expressly to his employer because
as Grigory aged, he lost his teeth. This is allegedly
why his chef started cutting the meat into very thin
strips and then stewing them in a sauce to make
them really tender. Yet another origin story is that chef
Charles Brier created the dish while he was working in

(12:29):
Saint Petersburg, and he actually claimed this in his lifetime.
He said that he created it in eighteen ninety one
and that he named it for the Stroganov family, and
because it was his original creation, he entered it into
a culinary competition in Saint Petersburg and won. He also
submitted it to the French magazine l'at Cullinaire as his

(12:51):
original creation, but this preerre claim has a pretty serious flaw.
A cookbook called A Gift to Young Housewives was written
in eighteen seventy one, and in it is a recipe
that translates as beef stroganof with mustard. That sauce included mustard,
sour cream, and beef broth. That cookbook post dates Pavel

(13:14):
Alexandrovitch Stroganoff, and it came out while Alexander Grigorovitch Stroganoff
was still alive. He would have been seventy six at
the time, So this kind of supports either the Pavel
or the Alexander origin. It's kind of a bummer that
the cooks or the chefs that may have created this
in either of those cases don't have names included in

(13:36):
any of the sources that we saw. Yeah, but we
know it existed before Brier claimed that he did it.
Another cookbook shifted the beef Stroganoff story once again. This one,
titled Practical Guide to the Basics of Culinary Arts, was
written in nineteen twelve by Pelagia Alexandrova Ignatieva. This is

(13:57):
where mushrooms got added to the stroganov Plaja also added
tomato sauce to the mix and spread her version of
the dish on top of potato straws. Those are crispy
shoe string potatoes instead of noodles or some softer starch.
This is allegedly, I cannot speak from experience, how you

(14:18):
will most often see it served in Russia today. This
sounds delicious to me. I love some I love some
potato straws. Pavel and Olga Sutkin, writing for the Moscow
Times in twenty twenty two, hunted through old cookbooks looking
for some kind of precursor that might put the origin
of beef strogan off even earlier than any of these accounts.

(14:41):
They found a publication called Chef's Calendar from eighteen oh
eight that had a recipe called mince, which instructed the
cook to finely chop some beef fried in butter and
then add broth, seasoning, vinegar, and sour cream. Another called clops,
is made with tender ezed cuts of beef that are
sauteed with onions and served with sour cream or the

(15:03):
fond from the skillet. The Suitkins mentioned that while these
are not Stroganoff, they do represent an existing tradition of
some similar dishes that stroganoff may have evolved from. It's
really highly probable that some version of the dish was
around for a long time and was taught through oral

(15:24):
tradition from generation to generation. And while we have covered
ancient cookbooks on the show before, in Russia and really
a lot of parts of the world, cookbooks didn't have
a huge presence until the second half of the nineteenth century.
That's just because printing got cheaper and cheaper, and people
were able to turn them out, and that's when we
start seeing Stroganoff recipes show up. It was at this

(15:47):
point that the dish expanded in recognition beyond the Stroganoff
family and became popular as a dish throughout Russia. Because
it was named after an important and long standing family
in the country, it also became viewed as an iconic
example of Russian cuisine. We mentioned a few moments ago
that the October Revolution, which resulted in the Bolsheviks seizing power,

(16:10):
was part of Beef Stroganoff's story. When the revolution happened
and families who had been loyal to Zar Nicholas the
Second Flood or were exiled, they went in two directions
to Europe, particularly Paris, and to China, and with them,
of course went their favorite recipes. As a result, Beef's
Stroganof has the distinction of being popular in China up

(16:32):
until today, although the version that's made there often reverts
back to a mustard sauce instead of including sour cream,
and it's usually served over rice. In Europe, the creamy,
rich texture of the dish with sour cream became really popular,
and variations made with heavy cream also emerged. I will
take all of them, thank you. From there, as both

(16:54):
home cooks and restaurants recognized how simple and cost effective
and delicious this dish is to make, it ballooned in
popularity in the US. It's become a standard in cookbooks,
in restaurants, and even, as we said, frozen ready to
heat dinners, although it is usually served over egg noodles
in North America rather than those potato straws or rice.

(17:16):
And The dish got to the US through two paths.
One was European immigrants, but the other was due to
US military deployments during World War Two. Men who were
sent to the Pacific theater encountered the version that had
been popularized in China and then spread to surrounding countries,
and some of these versions from Asia were not only

(17:37):
served over rice, but also incorporated other flavors associated with
various Asian cuisine, like soy sauce or fish sauce that
was added to the creamy base. So by the time
servicemen returned home from the war, they had a lot
of pretty varied ideas of what beef stroganof was, and
it came right with them. To be clear, though it

(17:58):
had hit US tables before World War Two, although it
was treated with kind of a degree of fascination for
having come from Afar. An article in the Akron Beacon
Journal from May fourteenth, nineteen thirty four that talked about
the dish ran under the headline quote peasants of Russia
thrive on monotonous, though well balanced diet, says editor the

(18:21):
Home Economics editor reference there was Glenna H. Snow, who
had once seen a lecture that said that Russians existed
almost exclusively on quote cabbage, rye or black bread, coffee,
and occasionally a cucumber for a change in diet. We
know that they also have potatoes and do have a
great deal of soup. Obviously, Snow had some interesting and

(18:45):
pretty unrealistic ideas about what a balanced diet is and
what the word thriving means. I would say, also, having
had as a source a lecture heard some time ago,
it's a little questionable. The rest of this rite up
is about a Beef's Stroganoff recipe that won Miss chlora

(19:06):
h drling of Wadsworth, Ohio a dollar from the paper
that includes in the ingredients beef thick sour cream, a
grated onion, mustard, salt, pepper, butter for frying, and ketchup.
Wah wah, how I fell reading that recipe, that entire
write up. I was like, this so exemplifies like the

(19:28):
concept of US residents perceiving others in ways that are
at kindest point and kind of conceited, by which I
mean from a conceded standpoint. And while opinions may be
mixed about that ketchup situation, listen, I'm shaking my head. Really,
that level of variability is part of the dish's long

(19:51):
term success. It's a recipe that's taught in its classic
version in cooking schools with beef, mushrooms, onions, sour cream,
et cetera. But it's also a recipe that invites improvisation
because it is so simple. You don't have to be
a good cook if you don't have beef, but you
need to use some pork that you have in the fridge.
Use that instead. Cooks can add wine, mustard, or tomato

(20:13):
if they wish, or borrow from those Asian styles and
use say or fish sauce. You can cut the beef
into petals or strips. You can serve it over rice,
noodles or potatoes. You can see how this would be
also a good way to use leftovers to make something new,
But all of it goes back to the Stroganov family
and their love of French food. The next food that

(20:34):
we're going to talk about, also incorporating noodles, is a
favorite of Holly's and it's Tetrazini. It's named for Luisa Tetrazini,
who was a famous singer in the early twentieth century
who also sounds like a very fun person. Lusa was
born on June twenty ninth, eighteen seventy one, in Florence, Italy,
and she started singing at the age of three, training

(20:55):
alongside her sister Eva. When Luisa was still a teenager,
she married a man named Giuseppe Scalaberni and he managed
the Pagiano building, which included a theater, and that theater
was mounting a production of the opera La Fricana in
the early eighteen nineties. Luisa observed the rehearsals while her
husband worked, and she became so familiar with the opera

(21:18):
that it changed her life. When the soprano who was
cast in the lead role fell ill before opening and
was unable to perform, Luisa, who knew the entire opera
by heart, stepped in her unusual debut, was greeted with
a standing ovation, and her career as a professional singer
took off from there. She had been so confident and

(21:41):
so poised in her debut performance that a lot of
audience members believed that the claim that she had never
sung before a large crowd before must have been some
sort of publicity stunt. Luisa's early professional bookings were in
Rome and then touring companies that traveled to Russia, Mexico,
and South America. She had a lot a buzz internationally

(22:01):
by the early nineteen hundreds. There were often articles in
California newspapers in particular, that speculated on when this famed
diva might finally perform in the United States. She finally
did so in nineteen oh four in San Francisco. Luisa
was a confident woman. She did not let anyone boss
her around, and when she negotiated contracts, she only agreed

(22:25):
to terms that she wanted. She also got into a
number of legal battles on matters of business. For example,
when negotiating a year long engagement at the Metropolitan Opera
in New York, the contract included language that would restrict
her from performing in other cities. There were some legal
issues with that contract. She didn't like that clause, and

(22:46):
it seems that when she did not receive a deposit
on the contract at the time she expected, she just
started setting out to book other dates. But this caused
trouble with Oscar Hammerstein, who had been her manager. He
made a state and to the press that said quote,
when I sold out my interests to the Metropolitan Opera House,
a certain clause stated that such singers as did not

(23:08):
wish to be transferred I would take care of in
some manner. Madame Tetrazini was one of these. I wrote
her that since she did not want to go to
the Metropolitan, I still regarded my contract as good and
would send her on a concert tour this coming season.
Hammerstein said that he had given her an advance and
also sent her money for travel so that she could

(23:30):
come to him and they could work out a plan,
but that she never showed. Luisa said that she had
no contract with Hammerstein and that she could book engagements
wherever she wanted, and famously stated quote, I will sing
in San Francisco if I have to sing there in
the streets, for I know the streets of San Francisco
are free. When this case was finally settled, it was

(23:51):
Tetrasini who came out on top, and to celebrate, she
immediately booked a street performance in San Francisco. She was
really not considered to be a good actress, but her
singing was so expressive that it filled the gap. She
once said quote, I have been successful because I have
put feeling, experience, dramatic power, and acting into my voice.

(24:13):
I am not woulden I phrase words as I sing them.
I attune myself to the part. I make every word,
every act, every motion count. That is the reason of
my success. Tetrasini's heyday as a performer was really before
World War One. She was estimated by the New York
Times when she died to have earned five million dollars

(24:35):
in her career, an enormous sum for the time. She
had an ongoing feud with Dame Nellie Melba, who we've
talked about on the show before, and has an eponymous
food of her own, but a very close friendship with
Enrico Caruso and other singers of the day. She also
married three times in her life, and she had a
great number of other romantic partners. In short, Luisa Tetrasini

(24:57):
lived life to the fullest. She often and described her
life as a quote path of roses, and her passion
for living carried right on through to food. As she
aids she put on weight, and when people questioned whether
she should change her diet, she insisted that she thrived
on a rich diet and felt it gave her the
strength she needed to perform, and that she'd rather have

(25:19):
that than have a smaller figure. With all that in mind,
it makes sense that the entree that bears her name
would wind up being a rich one. We're going to
talk more about that rich entre after we hear from
the sponsors that keep stuff you missed in history class going.

(25:43):
If you have never had tetrazini. It is another easy
to make comfort food. It's really a casserole. Jessica Webster,
writing for The ann Arbor News in twenty ten, described
it perfectly. Quote. This recipe seems to have a fairly
flexible set of ingredients, but most iterations include pasta, a cream, sauce,
white wine, vegetables, and some form of non red meat

(26:05):
that usually lends the dish the first part of its name.
When it's all said and done, it tastes kind of
like an Italian chicken pop pie from California. In contrast
to the Stroganov story, where we know a French chef
created it but aren't quite sure which member of the
family it was named for, we know that Luisa Tetrazini

(26:25):
is the inspiration for the chicken Tetrasini dish, we just
don't know when or where. Although it was in the
United States and it's possible that the inventor was the
singer herself. Even what was in the original version is debated.
Sam Sifton, writing about Tetrasini for The New York Times

(26:45):
in twenty sixteen, listed the original ingredients as quote, spaghetti,
heavy cream, chicken, mushrooms and parmesan, served with two classic
French sauces, chicken belote and Hollandais. Belote is a sauce
made with a roof of melted butter and flour with
poultry stock added to it. Almost forty years after Luisa

(27:07):
Tetrazini's death, though, writer Douglas Welch wrote an account of
the dish's creation in his column which was called Squirrel Cage,
and that account, which was published in May nineteen sixty seven,
included Welch reminiscing about meeting the singer as a child
and the story he learned growing up of how the
rich entree came about. Welch places the invention in Boston

(27:29):
at a restaurant called Bovars. He wrote, quote, The way
I heard the story is that one night after the opera,
she walked into Bovars and said she wanted something different.
She wondered if they had some sliced cold roast chicken
that they could heat up, along with spaghetti and mushrooms
and butter and sherry and cheddar cheese and a little
white sauce. So this is, obviously, if you know Tetrasini,

(27:51):
a shocking account cheddar cheese that's not usually in there.
Welch released this story as part of a larger narrative
about getting into an argument with his neighbors over telling
them that chicken Tetrazini was not Italian and also that
it had cheddar cheese and not parmesan or Romano cheese.
One article in SEVERER mentions that Augusta. Scoffier, whose Navy

(28:15):
may recognize as a previous podcast subject, is the one
who invented it, and his life and Tetrazini's did overlap.
He lived from eighteen forty six to nineteen thirty five,
but Iscaffee worked in Europe, and this dish has always
been cited as having been invented for the singer while
she was touring the United States. It's possible that the

(28:37):
attribution is due to one element of the dish that
beautet sauce, which was one of the five French mother
sauces that Escaffier touted as essential for any cook to
be able to create a myriad of recipes. Another often
cited originator is chef Ernest Arbagast, who worked at San
Francisco's Palace hotel in the early nineteen hundreds. This version

(29:01):
states that he created it for her when she was
singing in San Francisco, and is included in Charles Nelson
Gaddy's biography of Luisa Tetrasini, which is titled Luisa Tetrasini
The Florentine Nightingale. The biography account covers Luis's happy nineteen
ten return to perform in San Francisco, a city that
she loved and which clearly loved her back. She was

(29:23):
on that visit, presented with a skating rink named in
her honor and quote. At the Palace Hotel where Tetrasini
was going to stay again, its resourceful manager, Colonel John C. Kirkpatrick,
greeted her with the news that their renowned chef Ernest
Arbagast had created a new dish in her honor, chicken Tetrasini,
which would be served for the first time that evening.

(29:45):
This all took place, according to that biography, in December
of nineteen ten. That was when she staged her famous
street performance after her legal battle with the met and
with Hammerstein, but that does not not line up with
other records. The casseroles first known mention in print was
in Good Housekeeping in nineteen oh eight. It describes the

(30:09):
dish we'd all recognize as chicken tetrasini and says that
it was invented in New York quote at the restaurant
on forty second Street. They serve a good and easy
entree or main course. It is named after the famous singer.
That restaurant is believed to have been the one in
the Knickerbocker Hotel. The first instance we found for chicken

(30:29):
tetrasini in the USNA paper was in the autumn of
nineteen oh nine, over the course of October to December
of that year, a full year before Arbagast allegedly invented it.
It suddenly popped up in a lot of papers. While
Arbagast couldn't have invented it that year, it's possible that
he did invent it earlier, and there's just some confusion

(30:50):
on the date. In the twenty thirteen book San Francisco,
a Food Biography written by Erica J. Peters March sixth,
nineteen oh five, as listed it as the possible night
of creation at the Palm Court restaurant in the hotel. Regardless,
it is clear that the recipe was created sometime in
the early nineteen hundreds and spread quite rapidly during Luisa

(31:12):
Tetrazini's lifetime. At this point there are so many different
versions of the recipe, which also lends itself nicely to
remaking leftovers into something new, that now there isn't any
one definitive version that anyone goes this is real Tetrasini,
except for that cheddar cheese thing. Well finished with a
throwback to another popular podcast subject. In nineteen sixty five,

(31:36):
Mary and Vincent Price included a Tetrasini recipe and their cookbook,
A Treasury of Great Recipes, with the fancier name of
mls of Chicken Tetrasini o grutten and then in parentheses
charmingly Chicken and Spaghetti Casserole. The Prices used a recipe
from Sardi's, the famed restaurant in the New York Theater district.

(31:57):
Vincent Price, per his own account, fell in love with
the dish when he was appearing in Victoria Regina at
the Broadhurst Theater in the nineteen thirties. He said he
loved Sarty so much. He was the three times a
week regular, so he probably had their Tetrasini a lot.
The version in the cookbook uses what Price calls supreme sauce.

(32:17):
It's the vellutee but with cream added. Yum. Yeah. I
love that we get to include the prices a little bit. Also,
what's interesting here is that emons just means really thinly
cut strips of meat, so it kind of links it
right back to Stroganoff, which also has thinly cut strips

(32:38):
of meat. But those are our noodle dishes for eponymous foods.
I also have a listener mail. This is from our
listener Melanie, who has a PhD and stuff you missed
in history class, which means she has listened to everything.
Melanie writes, Hello ladies. Last week I completed listening to

(32:59):
every episode of your podcast. I love learning about history,
especially the things no one knows about. My favorite episodes
are medical history. So now I've also started on saw
Bones back episodes as well. You're in for a treat.
Those are great. I listened to your episodes at one
point five speed, and like others have said, your voices
sound so slow. Now sorry, I bet I sound terribly

(33:22):
CALCULI at one point five I listened on my way
to and from work as a researcher after I found
a puppy on the side of the road while driving
to work. About six weeks ago, I also started listening
about walking her. Your podcast has given me several ideas
for my dissertation as I work on my PhD in
nursing research. I hope to have my second PhD by
the end of the year. I'm very grateful to both

(33:43):
of you for your careful research and balanced representation of history.
I am especially glad that those whose contributions to society
have been ignored before are being recognized now. I believe
Tracy once said that the reason you end up covering
so many LGBTQ plus and women in history is because
those are the one whose work society has missed. I
recently listened to a lecture funded by the NIH in

(34:05):
which the speaker made the comment that before Florence Nightingale,
women didn't do research. There's kind of thing. There's an
angry face in the email here. Sounds like there is
still more misistory to cover, So I'll keep listening and
recommending your podcast. Maybe you could do an episode about
unrecognized female researchers prior to flow. I'm attaching My tax

(34:25):
of pet pictures are seven rescue cats and one rescue puppy.
Keep us awfully busy giving love. This puppy is so cute.
Thank you for scooping her up and rescuing her. And
all of these baby kitties who look like an assortment
of trouble and delight. There's one picture of a black
cat with the fangiest thangs I've maybe ever seen. Oh yah,

(34:46):
and I want to kiss it so bad, Melanie, thank
you so much. And Yeah. Every once in a while,
I'll come across a similar statement that someone makes where
it's like, no one ever did this before this person,
and I'm like, that's demonstrably untrue. I was at a
museum one time that said is part of a display
that women weren't active in fandom until Star Trek, and
I was like, I'm gonna, oh my goodness, I'm gonna

(35:09):
punch a hole in this. I did not punch a
hole in it, obviously. I did, though, complain to the museum,
which we've talked about my rule of like not correcting
things unless they're either like harmful or embarrassing, and I
was like, I feel like this is kind of both yes, yeah,

(35:29):
uh and again at if you would like to write
to us You can do so at History podcast at
iHeartRadio dot com. You can also find us on social
media as Missed in History And if you haven't subscribed
yet and you want to get your PhD, that's a
great way to make it easy. You could do that
on the iHeartRadio app or wherever you listen to your

(35:50):
favorite shows. Stuff you Missed in History Class is a
production of iHeartRadio. For more podcasts from iHeartRadio, visit the
iHeartRadio app, Apple Podcasts, or wherever you listen to your
favorite shows.

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