November 1, 2024 • 32 mins
Nimene learns how ‘street couture’ fashion came to be with a brand new hip-hop track about fashion pioneer Willi Smith. Featuring an interview between fashion designer Humberto Leon and an 8 year old fashion lover from New York named Olivia.
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Speaker 1 (00:01):
Hey listeners, Niminy here, host of historical records. Get ready
to hear about a historical hero through hip hop although.
Speaker 2 (00:10):
Parents and teachers.
Speaker 1 (00:11):
You can download a free activity related to today's episode
by visiting story pirates dot com slash Historical Records, and
now onto the show. After a few words for the
grown ups, Hi listeners, Niminy here in the ballroom of
the Secret Bunker, reporting to you live from fashion's biggest
(00:35):
night of the year. In just a moment, Tina and
the other raccoons are going to try on all my
clothes and hit the runway. We're expecting a lot of
different looks out of my closet tonight, and we're hopeful
that we'll find at least one outfit that I am
still willing to wear. I've just received word from Tina
that the show is starting.
Speaker 2 (00:56):
Oh and here comes the first model down the runway.
Speaker 1 (00:58):
It's Tina on top of four other raccoons, so they're
the same height as me.
Speaker 2 (01:03):
And look at this.
Speaker 1 (01:04):
They're wearing my favorite simple black dress. Now, this dress
is very special to me. I got it during my
junior year of college. I wear it to eighty percent
of the nice events I have to attend, and it's
honestly starting to get a little scratching in the shoulders.
It is pretty, but it's also pretty tired and should
probably be cut up and repurposed into kitchen rags. Sorry, Tina,
(01:29):
that one is not happening.
Speaker 2 (01:31):
But don't worry, listeners.
Speaker 1 (01:32):
We've got two more, hopefully passable options to see, and
here they come again.
Speaker 2 (01:39):
Wow.
Speaker 1 (01:40):
This next piece coming down the runway is a real stunner,
also being worn by five raccoons standing on top of
each other. This one is a floral pants suit, and
it looks like the raccoons are having some fun up there.
We love to see it, But does this dress still
work for me? I'm not so sure it does, Tina.
(02:02):
This is an outfit that I wore once for my
cousin's wedding and then never wore again.
Speaker 2 (02:07):
Did it look good.
Speaker 1 (02:08):
At the time, Absolutely? Can I bring myself to wear
it again? Absolutely not. No one said fashion was easy.
Side note. Is there anything more adorable than the sound
of a crowd of raccoons being bummed out?
Speaker 2 (02:24):
I think not. Now.
Speaker 1 (02:26):
This last outfit coming down the runway, once again being
worn by five raccoons standing on top of one Another
is a.
Speaker 2 (02:33):
Vampire cape, vampire tape, and.
Speaker 1 (02:36):
A vampire wig. It's my Halloween costume from last year
I was a vampire. It's not the music, Tina. None
of these options work. I have a confession to make.
Scientists International Magazine is doing a big feature on scientists
(02:56):
who live in top secret underground bunkers, and they're sending
a photographer here today to how our top secret underground
bunker to take a.
Speaker 2 (03:04):
Picture of me. I agree.
Speaker 1 (03:07):
The reason I ask you and the other raccoons to
do this fashion show is because.
Speaker 2 (03:12):
I have absolutely nothing glamorous to wear.
Speaker 3 (03:20):
Its Historical Records. You are now listening to Historical.
Speaker 1 (03:28):
To make history, you got to have struggles to make history.
You got to show poise. Cannot be quiet loud as
a riot to make history, you gotta make some noise.
Welcome back to Historical Records, where we conduct highly experimental
experiments combining history and hip hop. Today's episode is about
(03:50):
the pioneering fashion designer Willie Smith.
Speaker 2 (03:53):
But we'll get to Willy in a minute. Right now,
I'm in the middle of my own fashion Sasser.
Speaker 1 (04:00):
I agree, the vampire costume is funny, but I need
to impress my fellow scientists, not make them laugh. My
boring black dress, my floral pantsuit, my vampire Halloween costume.
None of these outfits feel like they're really gonna wow anyone.
Speaker 2 (04:16):
I want to wow people. What do you mean you
have just the thing? Tana? Where are you calling? Oh? Okay,
the spotlight on the runway is back. Uh.
Speaker 1 (04:31):
Our next model is about to come down the runway
wearing what she assures me is the greatest outfit of
all time. Yes, there she is, Tana the Raccoon, and
it appears that she is wearing a dress made entirely
of garbage.
Speaker 2 (04:49):
Okay, no raccoons.
Speaker 1 (04:54):
Thanks for your help, but I can't wear a dress
made of trash for my big photo shoot. This is
Science Tists International magazine we're talking about. It's like the
biggest publication amongst scientists who are international and who also
read magazines.
Speaker 2 (05:11):
Repeat, thanks, Tina, I knew you'd understand.
Speaker 1 (05:14):
Let's look in my closet one more time in case
I missed something. Hello, cute and fancy clothes, where are you?
Speaker 2 (05:22):
Hm?
Speaker 1 (05:26):
Nope, no fancy, impressive clothes in here, just a bunch
of useless junk. Wait a minute, how have I never
noticed this hidden door before. Just as I suspected, this
door leads to a gigantic closet. Closet, Oh nope, this
is a library. That tiny door just led to the library.
(05:47):
Wait a second, maybe one of the historians can.
Speaker 2 (05:50):
Help me find something to wear. Gabe, lay anyone in here.
Speaker 1 (05:56):
I need a historian who also has the fashion sends
it possible?
Speaker 2 (06:00):
Well what was that? And where is all this smoke
coming from?
Speaker 4 (06:06):
Oh? Hi, niminy, Gabe, what was that huge kaboom sound?
Sorry about that. I've just been testing out the latest
design for my history simulator. Want to give it a try?
Well I kind of need Come on, it'll just take
a second. Here, put on this helmet.
Speaker 2 (06:20):
Hmm okay, I guess this helmet is kind of cute.
Speaker 4 (06:24):
Now climb up here and slide down this tube. God
New love a slade, and get ready to get blasted
off in this gigantic old timey cannon like the kind
they have at the circus.
Speaker 2 (06:34):
I thought you said this was a history simulator.
Speaker 4 (06:37):
It is. It just so happens to be shaped like
a gigantic old timey cannon like the kind they have
at the circus. But instead of launching the space. It
launches you through time.
Speaker 2 (06:47):
Gabe.
Speaker 1 (06:48):
You and I both know I love traveling through history,
but I don't know that I want to be launched
through history.
Speaker 4 (06:55):
Don't worry about it. I'll do it with you.
Speaker 2 (06:59):
Hut of a tight fitting.
Speaker 4 (07:01):
Here, an astute observation, and an improvement I'll make in
version two point zero.
Speaker 2 (07:05):
Wait, this is only the first draft of your time cannon.
Speaker 4 (07:08):
I prefer history simulator shape like a gigantic old timey cannon,
like the kind they have at the Circus. But yes,
this is the first draft. Now let's simulate history.
Speaker 2 (07:21):
This is safe, right, Gabe.
Speaker 4 (07:23):
Honestly, I'm still working out the kinks.
Speaker 2 (07:25):
Wait, what what's.
Speaker 4 (07:32):
Look beneath us? That's all of human history and it's
flying right by us.
Speaker 2 (07:36):
Kind of feels like we're flying right by next Now
you're getting it.
Speaker 4 (07:41):
Remember to tuck and roll when you land, tucking roll
when you boo. I was saying, never mind you, Okay, Gabe.
Speaker 1 (07:48):
Can I give you some constructive feedback on your history
simulator shaped like a gigantic old timey cannon, like the
kind they have at the circus.
Speaker 4 (07:55):
It's a long name. I know, I'm working on it.
Speaker 1 (07:58):
That's not what I was gonna say, look, there is
that a fashion show?
Speaker 4 (08:03):
Let's take a look.
Speaker 1 (08:04):
Oh, wait a minute, where are we This doesn't look
like a normal fashion show.
Speaker 4 (08:09):
You're right. It's the early nineteen eighties and we're at
the Alvin Ailey American Dance Theater in New York City.
Speaker 2 (08:15):
A dance studio. Yep.
Speaker 4 (08:17):
Alvin Ailey was a famous choreographer who fused ballet, jazz theater,
and modern dance with narratives about black life.
Speaker 2 (08:24):
Well, Alvin Ailey sounds cool, But if we're doing.
Speaker 1 (08:27):
A fashion show in a dance studio, the designer probably
isn't that good.
Speaker 4 (08:32):
Are you sure about that? Take a closer look at
the crowd.
Speaker 1 (08:35):
Wait a minute, is that Spike Lee, the famous film director?
Speaker 2 (08:39):
M h and keep harrying. Oh, he's one of my
favorite artists.
Speaker 4 (08:44):
And sitting right next to him is Andrew Whitten aka Zephyr,
a legend in the graffiti world.
Speaker 2 (08:50):
Is everyone in this audience somewhat interesting?
Speaker 4 (08:52):
Yep? Each of them is a luminary in their field,
most from the New York fashion scene.
Speaker 2 (08:58):
So whose fashion show is this going down?
Speaker 4 (09:01):
Let's watch him find out together.
Speaker 1 (09:02):
Oh my goodness, these models are all so beautiful and unique.
Some of them are tall, some of them are short,
some are bigger, some are smaller.
Speaker 2 (09:13):
I see different shades of skin men and women. Is
this what every fashion show was like in the nineteen eighties?
Speaker 4 (09:20):
Not at all for the nineteen eighties. This is incredibly
diverse and.
Speaker 1 (09:25):
These clothes, shapes and colors and fabrics. I love everything
I'm seeing. I have to know who the designer is.
Speaker 4 (09:33):
Well, here he comes.
Speaker 1 (09:34):
Now.
Speaker 4 (09:34):
His name is Willie Smith and we're at a show
for his popular fashion brand, Willie Ware.
Speaker 2 (09:39):
So that's Willie Smith. He's such a talented designer. Uh hey, Gabe,
do you hear that sizzling sound?
Speaker 1 (09:48):
Like someone lit a long wick and it's slowly burning
its way towards something gigantic?
Speaker 4 (09:53):
I do That means it's time to head back into
the jis or can hiss you later? Huh uh? The
Gigantic Circus canon history simulator. I'm workshopping the name.
Speaker 2 (10:06):
Remember that when you wear?
Speaker 1 (10:13):
Where are we now? And what's that delicious smell?
Speaker 4 (10:17):
I believe you're smelling fresh doses because we're in Mumbai, India.
Speaker 2 (10:22):
What are we doing here?
Speaker 4 (10:23):
This is one of the places where Willie Smith got
his inspiration. While traveling the world in search of the
right fabrics for his clothing, Willie didn't look to Paris
or Milan.
Speaker 1 (10:33):
But that's where all the fashion designers find the fabrics
with all the fun colors and patterns.
Speaker 4 (10:38):
Right, not exactly. WILLI was looking for colors and patterns, sure,
but he was also looking for durable fabrics that could
give his clothes a flowing feel in looser shapes.
Speaker 2 (10:49):
Woo, look at the price.
Speaker 1 (10:51):
Tag on this fabric. It's lavish, but it's also affordable.
Speaker 4 (10:55):
That's exactly what brought Willy to India. He wanted fabrics
that weren't just pretty look at, but that you could
actually live and work in, and it helped him make
sure that everyone could afford his pieces.
Speaker 1 (11:07):
So he didn't want to look in all the same
place as all the other designers were looking exactly smart.
Oh man, that dosa looks tasty. Maybe I'll just snag
a bike.
Speaker 4 (11:18):
No time, there's more history to simulate to the historical
circus blaster three thousand.
Speaker 2 (11:26):
That's not it either, Hey, can we go slower this time?
Speaker 4 (11:29):
Sorry? Gigantic old timy cannon like the kind they have
at the circus only has one speed.
Speaker 1 (11:35):
Here we go, man, I keep landing wrong, and now
I'm hungry.
Speaker 4 (11:49):
I really wanted that dosa nimony. It was a simulated dosa.
Speaker 2 (11:53):
Well, it made me simulated hungry. Where are we now?
Speaker 4 (11:57):
We're in Harlem, New York City. There's the Abyssinian Baptist Church,
and there's the Apollo Theater, and over there is one
hundred and twenty fifth Street, lined with vendors selling everything
from T shirts to community newspapers to incense.
Speaker 1 (12:11):
Em Let me guess that's stylish. Young man over there
with the loose fitting dress clothes, looking at all the
people and sketching in his notebook is a young Willie
Smith bingo.
Speaker 4 (12:23):
Before he started, williwaere. Willie Smith would walk the streets
of New York, strolling past black churches on Sundays, taking
inspiration from the women wearing their Sunday best. While other
fashion designers were trying to dress celebrities and the ultra rich,
Willy was inspired by the style of everyday working class people.
Speaker 2 (12:42):
Hey look at that park.
Speaker 1 (12:44):
Those breakdancers have some pretty funky moves.
Speaker 4 (12:48):
This is the kind of park where Willy would watch
office workers in their old stuffy business suits walking past
those breakdancers in their hip street wear, and wonder how
can I bring these two worlds together?
Speaker 1 (13:00):
So streetwear hasn't always been a part of high fashion.
Speaker 4 (13:04):
Willie was one of the first fashion designers to bring
influence from the streets, the clubs, and black culture in
general into high fashion. Without him, a lot of today's
streetwear brands probably wouldn't be what they are.
Speaker 1 (13:16):
So Before Willie Smith, high fashion was only for the rich,
and his work helped make fashion more accessible for everybody.
Speaker 5 (13:24):
Yes.
Speaker 4 (13:25):
In fact, one of his most famous quotes is, I
don't design clothes for the queen, but for the people
who wave at her as she goes by.
Speaker 2 (13:33):
I love that.
Speaker 1 (13:35):
But so far we're just talking about businessmen and bee boys.
Speaker 2 (13:39):
Did Willi Smith design any clothing for women?
Speaker 4 (13:42):
Actually, Willie Smith wasn't interested in designing solely for men
or for women. His brand, Williware was one of the
first major fashion brands to design both and even include
plenty of gender neutral designs.
Speaker 1 (13:56):
Sounds like Willie Smith was really ahead of his time.
Is this the neighborhood where he grew up?
Speaker 4 (14:02):
Not at all? He grew up in Philadelphia, want to see?
Speaker 1 (14:05):
Oh no, not more time blasting time blasting.
Speaker 4 (14:08):
That's pretty good. Let's keep spitballing off that. Look, I
can do a backflip where we're flying.
Speaker 2 (14:17):
Ooh, we're in a house.
Speaker 1 (14:19):
Maybe I can find some cool clothes in one of
these closets.
Speaker 4 (14:22):
Wait, wait, wait, first, look around this bedroom we're in.
Speaker 1 (14:26):
Hmm, there are a lot of drawings on the walls,
like a lot of drawings.
Speaker 2 (14:33):
Is this Willie Smith's room?
Speaker 4 (14:34):
Yes, it's his childhood bedroom in Philadelphia in the early
nineteen sixties.
Speaker 1 (14:39):
Look at this notebook. These drawings have so much imagination
in them. Oh, look at all these people wearing elegant costumes.
Speaker 4 (14:49):
Even from a young age, Willie loved to draw in
design clothes. His mother even told him that she knew
he was born to be an artist or a designer.
Speaker 2 (14:58):
Is Willy here right now?
Speaker 4 (15:00):
He's not home. His mom and grandma have taken him
to the Philadelphia Museum of Art, something they did frequently.
Speaker 2 (15:05):
Oh, I love that museum.
Speaker 4 (15:07):
So did Willy's family. They encouraged his love of drawing
clothing and took him to the museum to sketch. They
didn't have a lot of money, but they did have style,
and after his parents divorced, Willy's grandma encouraged him to
continue pursuing his dreams of working in fashion design.
Speaker 1 (15:24):
Sounds like his upbringing was a really big influence on him.
Speaker 4 (15:28):
Indeed, Willy's friend, former neighbor and fashion editor Kim Hastrider
once said what would make Willy proud was not when
a movie star wore his clothes. He would burst with
pride when he'd see black kids on the street running
around in his stuff, or those black ladies at the
bank wearing it to work.
Speaker 2 (15:47):
How sweet? Okay? Now about those.
Speaker 4 (15:50):
Closets nimity, their simulated closets full of simulated clothes.
Speaker 2 (15:54):
Well, I can still try them on, can't I?
Speaker 4 (15:56):
But there's so much more to see to the super big,
super old circuits, reminiscent history, simulating blasting machine.
Speaker 1 (16:04):
That's an even worse and longer name than before. Wait,
why are we in a comic book shop?
Speaker 4 (16:12):
Well, I wanted to talk about Willy Smith's legacy. Sadly,
as his company was making record profits, Willie's success in
the fashion world was cut short when he passed away
in nineteen eighty seven at the age of thirty nine
due to complications from AIDS.
Speaker 2 (16:27):
That's so young.
Speaker 4 (16:29):
Unfortunately, yes, the AIDS epidemic of the nineteen eighties took
away many of our best artists and leaders, especially those
in the LGBTQ community, But Willy's influence can still be
felt everywhere. His designs were worn by famous dancers in
Spike Lee movies like School Days, and even in the
pages of this comic.
Speaker 2 (16:49):
Book Spider Man Yep.
Speaker 4 (16:52):
In the issue where Peter Parker and Mary Jane finally
get married, Mary Jane's wedding grace was designed by none
other than Willie Smith. Now follow me outside. This bronze
plaque right here on the seventh Avenue Fashion Walk of
Fame in New York City commemorates Willie Smith in his
contribution to fashion in nineteen eighty eight. One year after
(17:15):
his death, New York City's first black Mayor, David Dinkins
proclaimed February twenty third as Willie Smith Day in New
York City.
Speaker 2 (17:23):
February twenty third.
Speaker 4 (17:26):
That's today, Well it is here in the simulation Oh boy,
speaking of look at the time space, we really should
be heading back home. Yun hey, nice landing.
Speaker 2 (17:40):
Thanks, I've had.
Speaker 1 (17:42):
Lots of practice with the gigantic old timey cannon, like
the kind they.
Speaker 2 (17:45):
Have at the circus.
Speaker 4 (17:47):
I believe you mean the time cannon.
Speaker 1 (17:49):
That's the official name you're going with.
Speaker 4 (17:51):
Yep.
Speaker 1 (17:52):
Isn't that what I called it the very first time
I got in Yep? And didn't you tell me you
prefer gigantic, old timey cannon, like the kind they have
at the circus.
Speaker 4 (18:00):
I've grown and I've changed fair Anyway, that was fun.
Speaker 2 (18:05):
Yeah, I had a blast, literally.
Speaker 1 (18:08):
But also I learned how to look at fashion in
a totally different way.
Speaker 2 (18:12):
Maybe I was thinking about my photo shoot all wrong.
Speaker 1 (18:15):
I wonder what Willie would suggest I wear something practical
and yet somehow still cool.
Speaker 4 (18:20):
Don't you have a song to record?
Speaker 2 (18:22):
Oh? You're right.
Speaker 1 (18:23):
I nearly forgot to the recording studio. Bye Gabe. Wow,
All right, listeners, check out this brand new song all
about Willie Smith.
Speaker 6 (18:39):
When people hear the name Willie Smith, I went in
to think that this is a person who cares enough
about them that he's taking the time to design and
create and thank for them.
Speaker 7 (18:53):
Like America, I could say, you would say I was
supposed to fail, but then I ended up sailing with
all the boats and whales. Before I was selling clothes
I had hope for sale, and even at a discount.
It was so for real. Grew up in Hill of Deelf,
had a little health, Nope, a lot of help. My
mother and my father.
Speaker 4 (19:12):
Told me to go for sale.
Speaker 7 (19:14):
Got it, be yourself, do your best, get it going
and you can get coins. But true freedom is the wealth. Willie,
that's my.
Speaker 4 (19:20):
Name, came into game. We'll get into all.
Speaker 7 (19:22):
Of that, but for now I'm saying I'm conveying my joy, struggle,
my joy not different from so many other black boys.
And I knew there was a world that was almost
had a reads, but I had to learn lessons that
nobody could teach. Tablets full of design and fabric colors.
Your fashion is one thing, with styles another. My joys
(19:47):
no freedom to love, imagine over brand news, but it's
still classing.
Speaker 4 (19:59):
Yes, I made clothes.
Speaker 7 (20:01):
Yes, I love to sew. I possessed the passion that
I ain't even know. I knew I had to grow
and you know I love Philly, but New York City, Yeah,
I knew I had to go. My best decision him
lines crafted with so much precision you could see the fishing.
A few people mentioned that it wasn't up to snuff.
But eventually everybody was loving my stuff. My mind went
to another place to create something live, colors, more vibrant,
(20:24):
my own little island where I could spend time on the.
Speaker 4 (20:27):
Shore, getting close to the source. And I'm smiling.
Speaker 6 (20:29):
Now.
Speaker 7 (20:30):
Got a new clothing line. Yeah, it's finally out. Will
he ware get it is? Get it there everywhere, I swear.
I think back to the famous line clothes don't make
the man unless you wear in mind my joy. The
scene is overdone. It's supposed to be fun. Now they
(20:58):
want to say, let's go on give I walked the
line from the harle of Renaissan syd Boys origin. Now
for the culture. No decoys, street bustle and loud crown,
sweet noise. These are the things I mean when I
speak joy. In twenty five mail offt designs. I chose
so you can chill or if you.
Speaker 4 (21:14):
Want to profile and pose.
Speaker 7 (21:15):
And I don't make clothes for the queen. I'm making
for the people on the street who way better limousine.
I did it for us, those kids on the front,
stoopid beautiful ladies who need a cute news suits. You
don't have to be safe to have taste, make it
oversize plus neon green and at lace. Whatever. I lived
my life with no regrets. Being true to myself meant
more than my success. I never claimed to be the
(21:37):
greatest of the best. I just wanted you to be
well dressed, and it's my pleasure. Joy stretch your arms
out as far as you can, clad hands right there.
Speaker 8 (22:00):
You stay, We'll be right back after a few words
(22:25):
for the grown ups.
Speaker 2 (22:29):
What a song? The intercom is buzzing.
Speaker 1 (22:35):
Well, I guess that means the photographers here don't worry, Tina.
Speaker 2 (22:40):
I figured it all out for.
Speaker 1 (22:42):
My big photo shoot to be featured in Scientists International magazine.
I've decided that I'm just going to wear my normal,
everyday lab coat.
Speaker 2 (22:52):
Yep.
Speaker 1 (22:53):
High fashion doesn't always mean the most expensive or exclusive thing.
Fashion is about expression, and my lab coat is the
truest expression of me. It's comfy, it's functional, and a
nice uniform reminds me of what I do and why
I love it.
Speaker 2 (23:06):
OK. Of course, I.
Speaker 1 (23:10):
Want to impress my colleagues, and I think this lab
coat might do the trick. And I don't need to
spend a bunch of money on something over.
Speaker 2 (23:18):
The top to do that.
Speaker 1 (23:21):
No, you go, girl, to answer the door. I need
you to answer the door and tell them I'll be
just a minute. I have an interview.
Speaker 2 (23:29):
Thanks Tina.
Speaker 1 (23:31):
All right, yeah, this helmet hair probably isn't good for
a photoshoot or an interview for that matter. Today we're
joined by fashion designer Umberto Leon and an amazing kid
named Olivia.
Speaker 2 (23:47):
Can you too introduce yourselves?
Speaker 1 (23:49):
Hi?
Speaker 9 (23:49):
I'm Olivia. I'm eight years old and I live in
New York.
Speaker 5 (23:52):
I'm in Berte Leon and I'm co founder of Opening
Ceremony and was the former creative director of Kenzo and
I live in California, Amberta.
Speaker 9 (24:02):
Did you know I'm half Chinese too?
Speaker 1 (24:04):
You know what?
Speaker 5 (24:05):
I have daughters that are nine years old and they
look a little bit like you. So I was going
to ask you, if you are half Chinese, do you
speak it?
Speaker 1 (24:13):
I know?
Speaker 9 (24:13):
A B.
Speaker 3 (24:15):
Yeah, what dialect does your family speak?
Speaker 9 (24:17):
I think we speak Cantonese.
Speaker 3 (24:19):
Whoa, That's what I speak.
Speaker 2 (24:21):
Actually, So, Olivia, what's your first question? From Berto?
Speaker 9 (24:24):
Why'd you become a fashion designer?
Speaker 3 (24:26):
That's a great question.
Speaker 5 (24:27):
When I was younger, I didn't know that being a
fashion designer was a job, you know. I just went
to the mall and I saw clothing. I didn't really
think anything about that, and so I got my first
job working at a store.
Speaker 3 (24:43):
Have you ever heard of the store called The Gap?
Speaker 9 (24:45):
Yeah.
Speaker 5 (24:45):
I started selling clothes and then my manager said, you
look like you would really like dressing the mannequins. So
then I started dressing the mannequins, and then I started
to do other stores mannequins and windows, and through that
experience it led me to eventually becoming a fashion designer.
Speaker 9 (25:06):
Did you ever make clothes for your own parents?
Speaker 5 (25:09):
So, growing up, my mom had three kids and the
only job she could take was to sew clothing for
a factory at home.
Speaker 3 (25:17):
So that she could watch the kids.
Speaker 5 (25:18):
And so she actually made clothes for me growing up
because I would see all these clothing and magazines and
I really loved it, but I couldn't afford it at
the time. So my mom decided to make all this
clothing for me, and so as I got to be
an adult, I wanted to repay that by doing things
for her. So I started to design clothing for her,
(25:39):
which was really really fun.
Speaker 1 (25:41):
Wow, that's so cool. How did you become interested in fashion?
Speaker 9 (25:45):
Olivia and my family's related to fashion a lot too,
because my great grandmother she was a seamstress, and my
grandmother she makes me dresses. And my mom used to
work for Vera Wang before I was born.
Speaker 5 (25:59):
Did your mom save a lot of her clothing that
she got from your grandmother or that she made.
Speaker 3 (26:06):
Did she save a lot of it for you?
Speaker 9 (26:08):
Yeah? And my mom told me a long time ago
that Vera Wang made Mommy her wedding dress and she's
going to pass it on to me for my wedding.
Speaker 3 (26:16):
That is so so special.
Speaker 5 (26:19):
And Vera Wang is such a special designer because she's
one of the first Asian women to really make it
in the fashion world.
Speaker 1 (26:28):
Olivia, do you have any questions for Umberto about Willie Smith?
Speaker 9 (26:32):
So when you were younger, did Willie Smith have any
influence on your work?
Speaker 5 (26:36):
You know, I grew up loving Willie Smith's work so much.
Willie was really inspired by what people wore on the streets,
and you know, at the time, I think a lot
of people were looking towards what they called high fashion,
and high fashion was interesting and it was cool, but
it was exclusive. Do you know what that word exclusive means?
Speaker 9 (26:54):
I don't think so, not really, Okay.
Speaker 5 (26:56):
So exclusive means like, it's only for a really small
group of peas people who could afford it or who
could find it. So Willie went out to create fashion
and clothing for everybody. One of the things that is
super super big that he did is he created clothing
that was genderless. And I think that type of thinking
(27:17):
when he was doing this in the seventies and eighties
was really really big because at this time people were
making clothes specifically like girls had to wear this and
boys had to wear this.
Speaker 3 (27:28):
So he was.
Speaker 5 (27:29):
Really breaking the boundaries in terms of what clothing means.
I mean, I'll ask you, should a T shirt be
for boys or for girls?
Speaker 4 (27:37):
Like?
Speaker 3 (27:37):
What do you think?
Speaker 9 (27:38):
I think they should be for both?
Speaker 5 (27:39):
I totally agree with you. Why can't boys wear dresses?
Or why is pinka color for girls? I think that
a lot of the world has kind of put things
into buckets that don't need to exist. Everybody should be
able to wear anything they want to wear, and I
think that was Willy's idea. Willie Smith really changed what
(28:00):
fashion is and how people could participate in fashion.
Speaker 1 (28:04):
Olivia, is there anything else you'd like to ask Comberto
before we say goodbye?
Speaker 9 (28:08):
What's your favorite part of being a fashion designer.
Speaker 5 (28:11):
One of my favorite things that I get to do
is I get to create something from nothing. I also
love clothing from all around the world. I feel like
there's so many amazing kind of clothing that you see
people wear for function.
Speaker 3 (28:25):
So I love to think about function.
Speaker 5 (28:27):
You know, where are you going to put your pockets,
what are you going to be carrying when you're wearing
those pants, or what are you going to be carrying
when you're going on that hike. So it's almost like
a puzzle piece where you're designing, where you're thinking about
all these things that you want to make sure it does.
Speaker 9 (28:41):
I think fashion takes like a lot of work. Like
for me, I sit down in fashion clocks and two
minutes later, my hands are covered in glue and I'm
sweating and there's fabric all over the place. And if
I ever made clothes, what style of advice did you
have for me? Other kids my.
Speaker 5 (28:56):
Age, It's okay when you're designing to think a little
bit more wild and crazy, like don't hold back. And
I think that's the best advice I could.
Speaker 4 (29:06):
Give to you.
Speaker 9 (29:06):
Well, you and your career sounds so awesome, and thank
you for talking with me.
Speaker 3 (29:11):
Thank you.
Speaker 5 (29:12):
I honestly loved all these questions you asked. You seem
like you're so well informed, and I hope to one
day meet you and maybe help you with your fashion ideas.
Speaker 3 (29:22):
It sounds like you have a lot. Yeah, I love that.
Speaker 5 (29:25):
And I think that anything that you could take away
from this conversation that inspires you means a.
Speaker 3 (29:30):
Lot to me.
Speaker 9 (29:31):
Thank you, Bertel, goodbye.
Speaker 3 (29:33):
Thank you so much, Olivia, see you later.
Speaker 2 (29:38):
What a great interview.
Speaker 1 (29:39):
I can't wait to see the designs that Olivia comes
up with someday. And I already love Humberto Leone's designs,
so I really loved getting to hear more about where
he gets his inspiration. Thanks Tina, tell the photographer. I'll
be there in a minute. Let me just put on
my trusty lab coat and say thank you to the
(30:02):
listeners for learning all about Willie Smith with me today
and the extra special thank you to today's guests Humberto
and Olivia. Remember parents and teachers. You can download a
free activity related to today's episode by visiting story pirates
dot com slash historical Records. We'll be back next week
with another historical record. Now, if you'll excuse me, I've
(30:26):
got a photoshoot to do. Oh and one last thing.
Remember to make history, You've got to make some noise.
Speaker 10 (30:35):
Fine Historical Records is produced in partnership with Story Pirates Studios,
Questlove's two on five Entertainment, John Blickman and iHeart Podcasts
Executive produced by Emir Questlove, Thompson, John Glickman, Lee Overtree
(30:57):
and Benjamin Salga. Executive produced for iHeart Podcasts by Noel Brown.
Producers for Story Pired Studios are Isabella Riccio, Sam Bear,
Eric Gerson, Andrew Miller, Lee Overtree, Peter McNerney, Denisa Wharton
Bey and niminy Ware. Producers for two one five are
Sean g Brittany Benjamin and Sarah Zolman. Hosted by niminy Ware.
(31:20):
Our head writer is Duke Doyle. Our historians are Gabe
Pacheco and Lee Polus. Music supervision for two one five
by Stroe Elliott. Scoring and music supervision for Story Pirate
Studios by Eric Gerson. Sound designed and mixing by Sam
Bear at the Relic Room in New York City, song
mastering by Josh Hahn, Theme song by Dan Foster and
(31:41):
Eric Gerson, and produced by Eric Gerson, Production coordination by
Isabelle Riccio, Production management by Maggie Lee. The line producer
for Story Pired Studios is Glennis Brault. Pr for Story
Pired Studios is provided by Naomi Shaw. Episode artwork by
Camilla Franklin. This episode was written by Mike Cavalon. The
(32:02):
song Willie Smith was written and produced by Micah James.
Special guests Umbert Leone and kid interviewer Olivia. This episode
features performances by Micah James, Peter McNerney Lee Overtree, and
Gabe Pacheco.
Speaker 4 (32:16):
Special thanks to J. T.
Speaker 10 (32:17):
Sue and Dan Foster.
Hey listeners, Niminy here, host of historical records. Get ready
to hear about a historical hero through hip hop although.
Speaker 2 (00:10):
Parents and teachers.
Speaker 1 (00:11):
You can download a free activity related to today's episode
by visiting story pirates dot com slash Historical Records, and
now onto the show. After a few words for the
grown ups, Hi listeners, Niminy here in the ballroom of
the Secret Bunker, reporting to you live from fashion's biggest
(00:35):
night of the year. In just a moment, Tina and
the other raccoons are going to try on all my
clothes and hit the runway. We're expecting a lot of
different looks out of my closet tonight, and we're hopeful
that we'll find at least one outfit that I am
still willing to wear. I've just received word from Tina
that the show is starting.
Speaker 2 (00:56):
Oh and here comes the first model down the runway.
Speaker 1 (00:58):
It's Tina on top of four other raccoons, so they're
the same height as me.
Speaker 2 (01:03):
And look at this.
Speaker 1 (01:04):
They're wearing my favorite simple black dress. Now, this dress
is very special to me. I got it during my
junior year of college. I wear it to eighty percent
of the nice events I have to attend, and it's
honestly starting to get a little scratching in the shoulders.
It is pretty, but it's also pretty tired and should
probably be cut up and repurposed into kitchen rags. Sorry, Tina,
(01:29):
that one is not happening.
Speaker 2 (01:31):
But don't worry, listeners.
Speaker 1 (01:32):
We've got two more, hopefully passable options to see, and
here they come again.
Speaker 2 (01:39):
Wow.
Speaker 1 (01:40):
This next piece coming down the runway is a real stunner,
also being worn by five raccoons standing on top of
each other. This one is a floral pants suit, and
it looks like the raccoons are having some fun up there.
We love to see it, But does this dress still
work for me? I'm not so sure it does, Tina.
(02:02):
This is an outfit that I wore once for my
cousin's wedding and then never wore again.
Speaker 2 (02:07):
Did it look good.
Speaker 1 (02:08):
At the time, Absolutely? Can I bring myself to wear
it again? Absolutely not. No one said fashion was easy.
Side note. Is there anything more adorable than the sound
of a crowd of raccoons being bummed out?
Speaker 2 (02:24):
I think not. Now.
Speaker 1 (02:26):
This last outfit coming down the runway, once again being
worn by five raccoons standing on top of one Another
is a.
Speaker 2 (02:33):
Vampire cape, vampire tape, and.
Speaker 1 (02:36):
A vampire wig. It's my Halloween costume from last year
I was a vampire. It's not the music, Tina. None
of these options work. I have a confession to make.
Scientists International Magazine is doing a big feature on scientists
(02:56):
who live in top secret underground bunkers, and they're sending
a photographer here today to how our top secret underground
bunker to take a.
Speaker 2 (03:04):
Picture of me. I agree.
Speaker 1 (03:07):
The reason I ask you and the other raccoons to
do this fashion show is because.
Speaker 2 (03:12):
I have absolutely nothing glamorous to wear.
Speaker 3 (03:20):
Its Historical Records. You are now listening to Historical.
Speaker 1 (03:28):
To make history, you got to have struggles to make history.
You got to show poise. Cannot be quiet loud as
a riot to make history, you gotta make some noise.
Welcome back to Historical Records, where we conduct highly experimental
experiments combining history and hip hop. Today's episode is about
(03:50):
the pioneering fashion designer Willie Smith.
Speaker 2 (03:53):
But we'll get to Willy in a minute. Right now,
I'm in the middle of my own fashion Sasser.
Speaker 1 (04:00):
I agree, the vampire costume is funny, but I need
to impress my fellow scientists, not make them laugh. My
boring black dress, my floral pantsuit, my vampire Halloween costume.
None of these outfits feel like they're really gonna wow anyone.
Speaker 2 (04:16):
I want to wow people. What do you mean you
have just the thing? Tana? Where are you calling? Oh? Okay,
the spotlight on the runway is back. Uh.
Speaker 1 (04:31):
Our next model is about to come down the runway
wearing what she assures me is the greatest outfit of
all time. Yes, there she is, Tana the Raccoon, and
it appears that she is wearing a dress made entirely
of garbage.
Speaker 2 (04:49):
Okay, no raccoons.
Speaker 1 (04:54):
Thanks for your help, but I can't wear a dress
made of trash for my big photo shoot. This is
Science Tists International magazine we're talking about. It's like the
biggest publication amongst scientists who are international and who also
read magazines.
Speaker 2 (05:11):
Repeat, thanks, Tina, I knew you'd understand.
Speaker 1 (05:14):
Let's look in my closet one more time in case
I missed something. Hello, cute and fancy clothes, where are you?
Speaker 2 (05:22):
Hm?
Speaker 1 (05:26):
Nope, no fancy, impressive clothes in here, just a bunch
of useless junk. Wait a minute, how have I never
noticed this hidden door before. Just as I suspected, this
door leads to a gigantic closet. Closet, Oh nope, this
is a library. That tiny door just led to the library.
(05:47):
Wait a second, maybe one of the historians can.
Speaker 2 (05:50):
Help me find something to wear. Gabe, lay anyone in here.
Speaker 1 (05:56):
I need a historian who also has the fashion sends
it possible?
Speaker 2 (06:00):
Well what was that? And where is all this smoke
coming from?
Speaker 4 (06:06):
Oh? Hi, niminy, Gabe, what was that huge kaboom sound?
Sorry about that. I've just been testing out the latest
design for my history simulator. Want to give it a try?
Well I kind of need Come on, it'll just take
a second. Here, put on this helmet.
Speaker 2 (06:20):
Hmm okay, I guess this helmet is kind of cute.
Speaker 4 (06:24):
Now climb up here and slide down this tube. God
New love a slade, and get ready to get blasted
off in this gigantic old timey cannon like the kind
they have at the circus.
Speaker 2 (06:34):
I thought you said this was a history simulator.
Speaker 4 (06:37):
It is. It just so happens to be shaped like
a gigantic old timey cannon like the kind they have
at the circus. But instead of launching the space. It
launches you through time.
Speaker 2 (06:47):
Gabe.
Speaker 1 (06:48):
You and I both know I love traveling through history,
but I don't know that I want to be launched
through history.
Speaker 4 (06:55):
Don't worry about it. I'll do it with you.
Speaker 2 (06:59):
Hut of a tight fitting.
Speaker 4 (07:01):
Here, an astute observation, and an improvement I'll make in
version two point zero.
Speaker 2 (07:05):
Wait, this is only the first draft of your time cannon.
Speaker 4 (07:08):
I prefer history simulator shape like a gigantic old timey cannon,
like the kind they have at the Circus. But yes,
this is the first draft. Now let's simulate history.
Speaker 2 (07:21):
This is safe, right, Gabe.
Speaker 4 (07:23):
Honestly, I'm still working out the kinks.
Speaker 2 (07:25):
Wait, what what's.
Speaker 4 (07:32):
Look beneath us? That's all of human history and it's
flying right by us.
Speaker 2 (07:36):
Kind of feels like we're flying right by next Now
you're getting it.
Speaker 4 (07:41):
Remember to tuck and roll when you land, tucking roll
when you boo. I was saying, never mind you, Okay, Gabe.
Speaker 1 (07:48):
Can I give you some constructive feedback on your history
simulator shaped like a gigantic old timey cannon, like the
kind they have at the circus.
Speaker 4 (07:55):
It's a long name. I know, I'm working on it.
Speaker 1 (07:58):
That's not what I was gonna say, look, there is
that a fashion show?
Speaker 4 (08:03):
Let's take a look.
Speaker 1 (08:04):
Oh, wait a minute, where are we This doesn't look
like a normal fashion show.
Speaker 4 (08:09):
You're right. It's the early nineteen eighties and we're at
the Alvin Ailey American Dance Theater in New York City.
Speaker 2 (08:15):
A dance studio. Yep.
Speaker 4 (08:17):
Alvin Ailey was a famous choreographer who fused ballet, jazz theater,
and modern dance with narratives about black life.
Speaker 2 (08:24):
Well, Alvin Ailey sounds cool, But if we're doing.
Speaker 1 (08:27):
A fashion show in a dance studio, the designer probably
isn't that good.
Speaker 4 (08:32):
Are you sure about that? Take a closer look at
the crowd.
Speaker 1 (08:35):
Wait a minute, is that Spike Lee, the famous film director?
Speaker 2 (08:39):
M h and keep harrying. Oh, he's one of my
favorite artists.
Speaker 4 (08:44):
And sitting right next to him is Andrew Whitten aka Zephyr,
a legend in the graffiti world.
Speaker 2 (08:50):
Is everyone in this audience somewhat interesting?
Speaker 4 (08:52):
Yep? Each of them is a luminary in their field,
most from the New York fashion scene.
Speaker 2 (08:58):
So whose fashion show is this going down?
Speaker 4 (09:01):
Let's watch him find out together.
Speaker 1 (09:02):
Oh my goodness, these models are all so beautiful and unique.
Some of them are tall, some of them are short,
some are bigger, some are smaller.
Speaker 2 (09:13):
I see different shades of skin men and women. Is
this what every fashion show was like in the nineteen eighties?
Speaker 4 (09:20):
Not at all for the nineteen eighties. This is incredibly
diverse and.
Speaker 1 (09:25):
These clothes, shapes and colors and fabrics. I love everything
I'm seeing. I have to know who the designer is.
Speaker 4 (09:33):
Well, here he comes.
Speaker 1 (09:34):
Now.
Speaker 4 (09:34):
His name is Willie Smith and we're at a show
for his popular fashion brand, Willie Ware.
Speaker 2 (09:39):
So that's Willie Smith. He's such a talented designer. Uh hey, Gabe,
do you hear that sizzling sound?
Speaker 1 (09:48):
Like someone lit a long wick and it's slowly burning
its way towards something gigantic?
Speaker 4 (09:53):
I do That means it's time to head back into
the jis or can hiss you later? Huh uh? The
Gigantic Circus canon history simulator. I'm workshopping the name.
Speaker 2 (10:06):
Remember that when you wear?
Speaker 1 (10:13):
Where are we now? And what's that delicious smell?
Speaker 4 (10:17):
I believe you're smelling fresh doses because we're in Mumbai, India.
Speaker 2 (10:22):
What are we doing here?
Speaker 4 (10:23):
This is one of the places where Willie Smith got
his inspiration. While traveling the world in search of the
right fabrics for his clothing, Willie didn't look to Paris
or Milan.
Speaker 1 (10:33):
But that's where all the fashion designers find the fabrics
with all the fun colors and patterns.
Speaker 4 (10:38):
Right, not exactly. WILLI was looking for colors and patterns, sure,
but he was also looking for durable fabrics that could
give his clothes a flowing feel in looser shapes.
Speaker 2 (10:49):
Woo, look at the price.
Speaker 1 (10:51):
Tag on this fabric. It's lavish, but it's also affordable.
Speaker 4 (10:55):
That's exactly what brought Willy to India. He wanted fabrics
that weren't just pretty look at, but that you could
actually live and work in, and it helped him make
sure that everyone could afford his pieces.
Speaker 1 (11:07):
So he didn't want to look in all the same
place as all the other designers were looking exactly smart.
Oh man, that dosa looks tasty. Maybe I'll just snag
a bike.
Speaker 4 (11:18):
No time, there's more history to simulate to the historical
circus blaster three thousand.
Speaker 2 (11:26):
That's not it either, Hey, can we go slower this time?
Speaker 4 (11:29):
Sorry? Gigantic old timy cannon like the kind they have
at the circus only has one speed.
Speaker 1 (11:35):
Here we go, man, I keep landing wrong, and now
I'm hungry.
Speaker 4 (11:49):
I really wanted that dosa nimony. It was a simulated dosa.
Speaker 2 (11:53):
Well, it made me simulated hungry. Where are we now?
Speaker 4 (11:57):
We're in Harlem, New York City. There's the Abyssinian Baptist Church,
and there's the Apollo Theater, and over there is one
hundred and twenty fifth Street, lined with vendors selling everything
from T shirts to community newspapers to incense.
Speaker 1 (12:11):
Em Let me guess that's stylish. Young man over there
with the loose fitting dress clothes, looking at all the
people and sketching in his notebook is a young Willie
Smith bingo.
Speaker 4 (12:23):
Before he started, williwaere. Willie Smith would walk the streets
of New York, strolling past black churches on Sundays, taking
inspiration from the women wearing their Sunday best. While other
fashion designers were trying to dress celebrities and the ultra rich,
Willy was inspired by the style of everyday working class people.
Speaker 2 (12:42):
Hey look at that park.
Speaker 1 (12:44):
Those breakdancers have some pretty funky moves.
Speaker 4 (12:48):
This is the kind of park where Willy would watch
office workers in their old stuffy business suits walking past
those breakdancers in their hip street wear, and wonder how
can I bring these two worlds together?
Speaker 1 (13:00):
So streetwear hasn't always been a part of high fashion.
Speaker 4 (13:04):
Willie was one of the first fashion designers to bring
influence from the streets, the clubs, and black culture in
general into high fashion. Without him, a lot of today's
streetwear brands probably wouldn't be what they are.
Speaker 1 (13:16):
So Before Willie Smith, high fashion was only for the rich,
and his work helped make fashion more accessible for everybody.
Speaker 5 (13:24):
Yes.
Speaker 4 (13:25):
In fact, one of his most famous quotes is, I
don't design clothes for the queen, but for the people
who wave at her as she goes by.
Speaker 2 (13:33):
I love that.
Speaker 1 (13:35):
But so far we're just talking about businessmen and bee boys.
Speaker 2 (13:39):
Did Willi Smith design any clothing for women?
Speaker 4 (13:42):
Actually, Willie Smith wasn't interested in designing solely for men
or for women. His brand, Williware was one of the
first major fashion brands to design both and even include
plenty of gender neutral designs.
Speaker 1 (13:56):
Sounds like Willie Smith was really ahead of his time.
Is this the neighborhood where he grew up?
Speaker 4 (14:02):
Not at all? He grew up in Philadelphia, want to see?
Speaker 1 (14:05):
Oh no, not more time blasting time blasting.
Speaker 4 (14:08):
That's pretty good. Let's keep spitballing off that. Look, I
can do a backflip where we're flying.
Speaker 2 (14:17):
Ooh, we're in a house.
Speaker 1 (14:19):
Maybe I can find some cool clothes in one of
these closets.
Speaker 4 (14:22):
Wait, wait, wait, first, look around this bedroom we're in.
Speaker 1 (14:26):
Hmm, there are a lot of drawings on the walls,
like a lot of drawings.
Speaker 2 (14:33):
Is this Willie Smith's room?
Speaker 4 (14:34):
Yes, it's his childhood bedroom in Philadelphia in the early
nineteen sixties.
Speaker 1 (14:39):
Look at this notebook. These drawings have so much imagination
in them. Oh, look at all these people wearing elegant costumes.
Speaker 4 (14:49):
Even from a young age, Willie loved to draw in
design clothes. His mother even told him that she knew
he was born to be an artist or a designer.
Speaker 2 (14:58):
Is Willy here right now?
Speaker 4 (15:00):
He's not home. His mom and grandma have taken him
to the Philadelphia Museum of Art, something they did frequently.
Speaker 2 (15:05):
Oh, I love that museum.
Speaker 4 (15:07):
So did Willy's family. They encouraged his love of drawing
clothing and took him to the museum to sketch. They
didn't have a lot of money, but they did have style,
and after his parents divorced, Willy's grandma encouraged him to
continue pursuing his dreams of working in fashion design.
Speaker 1 (15:24):
Sounds like his upbringing was a really big influence on him.
Speaker 4 (15:28):
Indeed, Willy's friend, former neighbor and fashion editor Kim Hastrider
once said what would make Willy proud was not when
a movie star wore his clothes. He would burst with
pride when he'd see black kids on the street running
around in his stuff, or those black ladies at the
bank wearing it to work.
Speaker 2 (15:47):
How sweet? Okay? Now about those.
Speaker 4 (15:50):
Closets nimity, their simulated closets full of simulated clothes.
Speaker 2 (15:54):
Well, I can still try them on, can't I?
Speaker 4 (15:56):
But there's so much more to see to the super big,
super old circuits, reminiscent history, simulating blasting machine.
Speaker 1 (16:04):
That's an even worse and longer name than before. Wait,
why are we in a comic book shop?
Speaker 4 (16:12):
Well, I wanted to talk about Willy Smith's legacy. Sadly,
as his company was making record profits, Willie's success in
the fashion world was cut short when he passed away
in nineteen eighty seven at the age of thirty nine
due to complications from AIDS.
Speaker 2 (16:27):
That's so young.
Speaker 4 (16:29):
Unfortunately, yes, the AIDS epidemic of the nineteen eighties took
away many of our best artists and leaders, especially those
in the LGBTQ community, But Willy's influence can still be
felt everywhere. His designs were worn by famous dancers in
Spike Lee movies like School Days, and even in the
pages of this comic.
Speaker 2 (16:49):
Book Spider Man Yep.
Speaker 4 (16:52):
In the issue where Peter Parker and Mary Jane finally
get married, Mary Jane's wedding grace was designed by none
other than Willie Smith. Now follow me outside. This bronze
plaque right here on the seventh Avenue Fashion Walk of
Fame in New York City commemorates Willie Smith in his
contribution to fashion in nineteen eighty eight. One year after
(17:15):
his death, New York City's first black Mayor, David Dinkins
proclaimed February twenty third as Willie Smith Day in New
York City.
Speaker 2 (17:23):
February twenty third.
Speaker 4 (17:26):
That's today, Well it is here in the simulation Oh boy,
speaking of look at the time space, we really should
be heading back home. Yun hey, nice landing.
Speaker 2 (17:40):
Thanks, I've had.
Speaker 1 (17:42):
Lots of practice with the gigantic old timey cannon, like
the kind they.
Speaker 2 (17:45):
Have at the circus.
Speaker 4 (17:47):
I believe you mean the time cannon.
Speaker 1 (17:49):
That's the official name you're going with.
Speaker 4 (17:51):
Yep.
Speaker 1 (17:52):
Isn't that what I called it the very first time
I got in Yep? And didn't you tell me you
prefer gigantic, old timey cannon, like the kind they have
at the circus.
Speaker 4 (18:00):
I've grown and I've changed fair Anyway, that was fun.
Speaker 2 (18:05):
Yeah, I had a blast, literally.
Speaker 1 (18:08):
But also I learned how to look at fashion in
a totally different way.
Speaker 2 (18:12):
Maybe I was thinking about my photo shoot all wrong.
Speaker 1 (18:15):
I wonder what Willie would suggest I wear something practical
and yet somehow still cool.
Speaker 4 (18:20):
Don't you have a song to record?
Speaker 2 (18:22):
Oh? You're right.
Speaker 1 (18:23):
I nearly forgot to the recording studio. Bye Gabe. Wow,
All right, listeners, check out this brand new song all
about Willie Smith.
Speaker 6 (18:39):
When people hear the name Willie Smith, I went in
to think that this is a person who cares enough
about them that he's taking the time to design and
create and thank for them.
Speaker 7 (18:53):
Like America, I could say, you would say I was
supposed to fail, but then I ended up sailing with
all the boats and whales. Before I was selling clothes
I had hope for sale, and even at a discount.
It was so for real. Grew up in Hill of Deelf,
had a little health, Nope, a lot of help. My
mother and my father.
Speaker 4 (19:12):
Told me to go for sale.
Speaker 7 (19:14):
Got it, be yourself, do your best, get it going
and you can get coins. But true freedom is the wealth. Willie,
that's my.
Speaker 4 (19:20):
Name, came into game. We'll get into all.
Speaker 7 (19:22):
Of that, but for now I'm saying I'm conveying my joy, struggle,
my joy not different from so many other black boys.
And I knew there was a world that was almost
had a reads, but I had to learn lessons that
nobody could teach. Tablets full of design and fabric colors.
Your fashion is one thing, with styles another. My joys
(19:47):
no freedom to love, imagine over brand news, but it's
still classing.
Speaker 4 (19:59):
Yes, I made clothes.
Speaker 7 (20:01):
Yes, I love to sew. I possessed the passion that
I ain't even know. I knew I had to grow
and you know I love Philly, but New York City, Yeah,
I knew I had to go. My best decision him
lines crafted with so much precision you could see the fishing.
A few people mentioned that it wasn't up to snuff.
But eventually everybody was loving my stuff. My mind went
to another place to create something live, colors, more vibrant,
(20:24):
my own little island where I could spend time on the.
Speaker 4 (20:27):
Shore, getting close to the source. And I'm smiling.
Speaker 6 (20:29):
Now.
Speaker 7 (20:30):
Got a new clothing line. Yeah, it's finally out. Will
he ware get it is? Get it there everywhere, I swear.
I think back to the famous line clothes don't make
the man unless you wear in mind my joy. The
scene is overdone. It's supposed to be fun. Now they
(20:58):
want to say, let's go on give I walked the
line from the harle of Renaissan syd Boys origin. Now
for the culture. No decoys, street bustle and loud crown,
sweet noise. These are the things I mean when I
speak joy. In twenty five mail offt designs. I chose
so you can chill or if you.
Speaker 4 (21:14):
Want to profile and pose.
Speaker 7 (21:15):
And I don't make clothes for the queen. I'm making
for the people on the street who way better limousine.
I did it for us, those kids on the front,
stoopid beautiful ladies who need a cute news suits. You
don't have to be safe to have taste, make it
oversize plus neon green and at lace. Whatever. I lived
my life with no regrets. Being true to myself meant
more than my success. I never claimed to be the
(21:37):
greatest of the best. I just wanted you to be
well dressed, and it's my pleasure. Joy stretch your arms
out as far as you can, clad hands right there.
Speaker 8 (22:00):
You stay, We'll be right back after a few words
(22:25):
for the grown ups.
Speaker 2 (22:29):
What a song? The intercom is buzzing.
Speaker 1 (22:35):
Well, I guess that means the photographers here don't worry, Tina.
Speaker 2 (22:40):
I figured it all out for.
Speaker 1 (22:42):
My big photo shoot to be featured in Scientists International magazine.
I've decided that I'm just going to wear my normal,
everyday lab coat.
Speaker 2 (22:52):
Yep.
Speaker 1 (22:53):
High fashion doesn't always mean the most expensive or exclusive thing.
Fashion is about expression, and my lab coat is the
truest expression of me. It's comfy, it's functional, and a
nice uniform reminds me of what I do and why
I love it.
Speaker 2 (23:06):
OK. Of course, I.
Speaker 1 (23:10):
Want to impress my colleagues, and I think this lab
coat might do the trick. And I don't need to
spend a bunch of money on something over.
Speaker 2 (23:18):
The top to do that.
Speaker 1 (23:21):
No, you go, girl, to answer the door. I need
you to answer the door and tell them I'll be
just a minute. I have an interview.
Speaker 2 (23:29):
Thanks Tina.
Speaker 1 (23:31):
All right, yeah, this helmet hair probably isn't good for
a photoshoot or an interview for that matter. Today we're
joined by fashion designer Umberto Leon and an amazing kid
named Olivia.
Speaker 2 (23:47):
Can you too introduce yourselves?
Speaker 1 (23:49):
Hi?
Speaker 9 (23:49):
I'm Olivia. I'm eight years old and I live in
New York.
Speaker 5 (23:52):
I'm in Berte Leon and I'm co founder of Opening
Ceremony and was the former creative director of Kenzo and
I live in California, Amberta.
Speaker 9 (24:02):
Did you know I'm half Chinese too?
Speaker 1 (24:04):
You know what?
Speaker 5 (24:05):
I have daughters that are nine years old and they
look a little bit like you. So I was going
to ask you, if you are half Chinese, do you
speak it?
Speaker 1 (24:13):
I know?
Speaker 9 (24:13):
A B.
Speaker 3 (24:15):
Yeah, what dialect does your family speak?
Speaker 9 (24:17):
I think we speak Cantonese.
Speaker 3 (24:19):
Whoa, That's what I speak.
Speaker 2 (24:21):
Actually, So, Olivia, what's your first question? From Berto?
Speaker 9 (24:24):
Why'd you become a fashion designer?
Speaker 3 (24:26):
That's a great question.
Speaker 5 (24:27):
When I was younger, I didn't know that being a
fashion designer was a job, you know. I just went
to the mall and I saw clothing. I didn't really
think anything about that, and so I got my first
job working at a store.
Speaker 3 (24:43):
Have you ever heard of the store called The Gap?
Speaker 9 (24:45):
Yeah.
Speaker 5 (24:45):
I started selling clothes and then my manager said, you
look like you would really like dressing the mannequins. So
then I started dressing the mannequins, and then I started
to do other stores mannequins and windows, and through that
experience it led me to eventually becoming a fashion designer.
Speaker 9 (25:06):
Did you ever make clothes for your own parents?
Speaker 5 (25:09):
So, growing up, my mom had three kids and the
only job she could take was to sew clothing for
a factory at home.
Speaker 3 (25:17):
So that she could watch the kids.
Speaker 5 (25:18):
And so she actually made clothes for me growing up
because I would see all these clothing and magazines and
I really loved it, but I couldn't afford it at
the time. So my mom decided to make all this
clothing for me, and so as I got to be
an adult, I wanted to repay that by doing things
for her. So I started to design clothing for her,
(25:39):
which was really really fun.
Speaker 1 (25:41):
Wow, that's so cool. How did you become interested in fashion?
Speaker 9 (25:45):
Olivia and my family's related to fashion a lot too,
because my great grandmother she was a seamstress, and my
grandmother she makes me dresses. And my mom used to
work for Vera Wang before I was born.
Speaker 5 (25:59):
Did your mom save a lot of her clothing that
she got from your grandmother or that she made.
Speaker 3 (26:06):
Did she save a lot of it for you?
Speaker 9 (26:08):
Yeah? And my mom told me a long time ago
that Vera Wang made Mommy her wedding dress and she's
going to pass it on to me for my wedding.
Speaker 3 (26:16):
That is so so special.
Speaker 5 (26:19):
And Vera Wang is such a special designer because she's
one of the first Asian women to really make it
in the fashion world.
Speaker 1 (26:28):
Olivia, do you have any questions for Umberto about Willie Smith?
Speaker 9 (26:32):
So when you were younger, did Willie Smith have any
influence on your work?
Speaker 5 (26:36):
You know, I grew up loving Willie Smith's work so much.
Willie was really inspired by what people wore on the streets,
and you know, at the time, I think a lot
of people were looking towards what they called high fashion,
and high fashion was interesting and it was cool, but
it was exclusive. Do you know what that word exclusive means?
Speaker 9 (26:54):
I don't think so, not really, Okay.
Speaker 5 (26:56):
So exclusive means like, it's only for a really small
group of peas people who could afford it or who
could find it. So Willie went out to create fashion
and clothing for everybody. One of the things that is
super super big that he did is he created clothing
that was genderless. And I think that type of thinking
(27:17):
when he was doing this in the seventies and eighties
was really really big because at this time people were
making clothes specifically like girls had to wear this and
boys had to wear this.
Speaker 3 (27:28):
So he was.
Speaker 5 (27:29):
Really breaking the boundaries in terms of what clothing means.
I mean, I'll ask you, should a T shirt be
for boys or for girls?
Speaker 4 (27:37):
Like?
Speaker 3 (27:37):
What do you think?
Speaker 9 (27:38):
I think they should be for both?
Speaker 5 (27:39):
I totally agree with you. Why can't boys wear dresses?
Or why is pinka color for girls? I think that
a lot of the world has kind of put things
into buckets that don't need to exist. Everybody should be
able to wear anything they want to wear, and I
think that was Willy's idea. Willie Smith really changed what
(28:00):
fashion is and how people could participate in fashion.
Speaker 1 (28:04):
Olivia, is there anything else you'd like to ask Comberto
before we say goodbye?
Speaker 9 (28:08):
What's your favorite part of being a fashion designer.
Speaker 5 (28:11):
One of my favorite things that I get to do
is I get to create something from nothing. I also
love clothing from all around the world. I feel like
there's so many amazing kind of clothing that you see
people wear for function.
Speaker 3 (28:25):
So I love to think about function.
Speaker 5 (28:27):
You know, where are you going to put your pockets,
what are you going to be carrying when you're wearing
those pants, or what are you going to be carrying
when you're going on that hike. So it's almost like
a puzzle piece where you're designing, where you're thinking about
all these things that you want to make sure it does.
Speaker 9 (28:41):
I think fashion takes like a lot of work. Like
for me, I sit down in fashion clocks and two
minutes later, my hands are covered in glue and I'm
sweating and there's fabric all over the place. And if
I ever made clothes, what style of advice did you
have for me? Other kids my.
Speaker 5 (28:56):
Age, It's okay when you're designing to think a little
bit more wild and crazy, like don't hold back. And
I think that's the best advice I could.
Speaker 4 (29:06):
Give to you.
Speaker 9 (29:06):
Well, you and your career sounds so awesome, and thank
you for talking with me.
Speaker 3 (29:11):
Thank you.
Speaker 5 (29:12):
I honestly loved all these questions you asked. You seem
like you're so well informed, and I hope to one
day meet you and maybe help you with your fashion ideas.
Speaker 3 (29:22):
It sounds like you have a lot. Yeah, I love that.
Speaker 5 (29:25):
And I think that anything that you could take away
from this conversation that inspires you means a.
Speaker 3 (29:30):
Lot to me.
Speaker 9 (29:31):
Thank you, Bertel, goodbye.
Speaker 3 (29:33):
Thank you so much, Olivia, see you later.
Speaker 2 (29:38):
What a great interview.
Speaker 1 (29:39):
I can't wait to see the designs that Olivia comes
up with someday. And I already love Humberto Leone's designs,
so I really loved getting to hear more about where
he gets his inspiration. Thanks Tina, tell the photographer. I'll
be there in a minute. Let me just put on
my trusty lab coat and say thank you to the
(30:02):
listeners for learning all about Willie Smith with me today
and the extra special thank you to today's guests Humberto
and Olivia. Remember parents and teachers. You can download a
free activity related to today's episode by visiting story pirates
dot com slash historical Records. We'll be back next week
with another historical record. Now, if you'll excuse me, I've
(30:26):
got a photoshoot to do. Oh and one last thing.
Remember to make history, You've got to make some noise.
Speaker 10 (30:35):
Fine Historical Records is produced in partnership with Story Pirates Studios,
Questlove's two on five Entertainment, John Blickman and iHeart Podcasts
Executive produced by Emir Questlove, Thompson, John Glickman, Lee Overtree
(30:57):
and Benjamin Salga. Executive produced for iHeart Podcasts by Noel Brown.
Producers for Story Pired Studios are Isabella Riccio, Sam Bear,
Eric Gerson, Andrew Miller, Lee Overtree, Peter McNerney, Denisa Wharton
Bey and niminy Ware. Producers for two one five are
Sean g Brittany Benjamin and Sarah Zolman. Hosted by niminy Ware.
(31:20):
Our head writer is Duke Doyle. Our historians are Gabe
Pacheco and Lee Polus. Music supervision for two one five
by Stroe Elliott. Scoring and music supervision for Story Pirate
Studios by Eric Gerson. Sound designed and mixing by Sam
Bear at the Relic Room in New York City, song
mastering by Josh Hahn, Theme song by Dan Foster and
(31:41):
Eric Gerson, and produced by Eric Gerson, Production coordination by
Isabelle Riccio, Production management by Maggie Lee. The line producer
for Story Pired Studios is Glennis Brault. Pr for Story
Pired Studios is provided by Naomi Shaw. Episode artwork by
Camilla Franklin. This episode was written by Mike Cavalon. The
(32:02):
song Willie Smith was written and produced by Micah James.
Special guests Umbert Leone and kid interviewer Olivia. This episode
features performances by Micah James, Peter McNerney Lee Overtree, and
Gabe Pacheco.
Speaker 4 (32:16):
Special thanks to J. T.
Speaker 10 (32:17):
Sue and Dan Foster.
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