December 11, 2025 • 29 mins
Restaurant history tells the story of who we are, what we value, and how culture moves. In this week’s episode of Hungry for History, Eva and Maite explore the impact the French Revolution played in the birth of restaurants and why French Cuisine became the culinary standard. They dive into the contributions of key figures like Auguste Escoffier, who organized the kitchen and standardized culinary techniques, the cultural significance of brasseries, and the role chefs play in shaping restaurant culture.
We also sit down with Chef Rico Torres of Mixtli, the groundbreaking Michelin-starred restaurant in San Antonio, known for turning Mexican culinary history into an elevated, narrative-driven experience. Together, we explore how menus become archives, how tradition becomes innovation, and how the restaurant world is shifting as more diverse culinary voices take center stage.
Learn more about Mixtli: https://restaurantmixtli.com
See omnystudio.com/listener for privacy information.
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Episode Transcript
Available transcripts are automatically generated. Complete accuracy is not guaranteed.
Speaker 1 (00:02):
My name is Eva Longoria and I am Ma de
remez Racon and welcome to Hungry for History, a podcast
that explores our past and present through food.
Speaker 2 (00:13):
On every episode, we'll talk about the history of some
of our favorite dishes, ingredients, and beverages.
Speaker 1 (00:18):
From our culture. So make yourself at home.
Speaker 3 (00:20):
Even so, we had a three part series talking about
revolutions and one of those was the French.
Speaker 1 (00:33):
I am in France now I'm learning and eating so much,
and one of the one of the biggest things I've
been learning is really French history, not just how the
French Revolution democratized food, but really the history of France
is so parallel with the history of food in this country,
and how a lot of what we know today is
(00:56):
owed to the French. And a lot of people don't
like to give them credit because they give themselves a
lot of credit. But I think it's well deserving. I think,
you know, they hold their place in the hierarchy of
culinary gastronomy history. They have a well deserved place in
(01:18):
the hierarchy of gastronomy.
Speaker 2 (01:20):
Yes, and they sparked the restaurant. The French Revolution sparked
the restaurant. In our love for dining out. So let's
dive into restaurant history.
Speaker 1 (01:30):
You know, how many of you have been to a
restaurant and sat down with a menu. You know, people
around the world have been eating outside of the home
for a while, whether you grab a bite or eat
something from a street vendor or a market stall. But
the restaurant concept is very, very different. And the word
restaurant comes from restaurant, which means to provide for or
(01:55):
literally it actually means to restore to a former state.
We talked about this in our French Revolution episode. Were
that before the revolution, meals were eaten at home and
at inns. There was like a set menu and some
shared tables, like they made a stew. Today, anybody who
came in ate the stew. But the revolution really gave
(02:17):
rise to this new idea of restaurants.
Speaker 2 (02:21):
And so during the revolution, nobles fled or were executed
and leaving many private chefs unemployed. And so these chefs
who were trained in the finest culinary traditions, they opened
up their own establishments for paying customers. And what helped
them really is in seventeen ninety one, the guilds were abolished.
(02:42):
Prior to the revolution, gills regulated trades and crafts. So
if you were in the baking guild, all you could
do was bake. If you were in the butchering guild,
all you could do was butcher. This was abolished, and
so this gave chefs more opportunity to be innovative and.
Speaker 1 (03:02):
To expect more their own business.
Speaker 2 (03:04):
And open their own businesses and bring fine dining to
a broader.
Speaker 1 (03:08):
Public totally, and it really was born from people who
were out of work. They you know, were the kings,
you know, bakers for centuries. I mean some were like
eighth generation you know bakers, and that's all they've ever known.
And now, you know, the fall of the monarchy, they
found themselves, you know, to be out on the street.
And I think the difference also between you know, eating
(03:32):
in an inn or a pub, in a communal table,
whatever they cooked for that day. The big difference was
now chefs were able to do a la carte and
you could choose like I would like that or I
would like this, and patrons dined at private tables, not
the communal table like in the past. And so this
(03:53):
also created and like I said, Louis, the fourteen fifteenth
really created the idea of food for enjoyment, not just sustenance,
and so this is like an extension of that. Dining
became an experience and you would go somewhere. All the
restaurants weren't open to anyone with money.
Speaker 3 (04:12):
You know.
Speaker 1 (04:12):
The idea of democratized by dining was was very revolutionary.
But Paris became the restaurant capital of the world and
it still holds that title today.
Speaker 2 (04:21):
I think I want to add something to what you
said about Louis the fourteenth, and he's the one that
made you know, food this sort of experience and performance.
But so just imagine, like I love to take myself
back to this time period and imagine, Okay, you have
a menu and you could choose what you want, and
you're at separate tables and you're observing other people, and
(04:45):
it's the performance, but in a different way. It becomes
this sort of public performance. So now you can kind
of do that, but just watch the person sitting next
to you eat. I don't know, it just it just
shifted this idea of food as performance, which is really
kind of interesting.
Speaker 4 (05:02):
You know.
Speaker 1 (05:02):
One of the first true restaurants in Paris was La
Grand Lagonne tavern de Lane opened in seventeen eight two.
It really flourished during the Revolution. And this one was
founded by Antoine Bouvilliers that we talked about. He was
a chef to aristocrats and he combined refined service, all wineless,
seasonal menus, elegant decor. So he really helps set the
(05:24):
standard for what a restaurant could be and really what
a restaurant is as we know them today.
Speaker 2 (05:30):
Yeah, and these early restaurants had enormous menus like twelve soup,
sixty five entrees of bee for chicken or mutton, and
fifteen rows, like fifty desserts. I mean, it was it
was crazy.
Speaker 4 (05:41):
It's like going to a Jewish delly. Today. Menu keeps
like on and on and on.
Speaker 1 (05:46):
Oh god, it's going to the cheesecake factory and I
have like eighty five page menu. I'm like, swups up
all of this? What is well? You keep a question
that I get asked a lot since I've been doing
the Searching Force series. You know, Searching started with with Italy,
and then we did Mexico, and we did Spain and
now we're doing France. And people kept asking me why
(06:06):
I'm we done France? Why I am he in France,
and I think a lot of people wonder, like, why
did French kind of become the standard in the world,
And it's because it was the first to formalize, you know,
the cuisine. French cuisine became the standard because it was
the first to be formalized and taught as a system.
And there's so many rules and kind of rigidity and
(06:29):
in the techniques and the recipes and the presentation and
the kitchen structure frameworks that we still use today. They're
taught in culinary schools all around the world. But they
really codified things, whether it was a recipe, whether it
was how the kitchen should work, whether it was how
the front of a restaurant should be creating matready capitan,
(06:49):
I mean, all of these roles that we know today,
you know, head chefs, sioux chef, pastry, chef, like, there's
so much that we still do because they were the
first to codify and formalize everything.
Speaker 2 (07:00):
I was in college called French Culinary Institute in New York.
It's no longer there. This was in two thousand. It
was really fascinating because we learned all of these skills,
Like there was a whole day that we turned little
potatoes and tournage and they had to look like perfect
little footballs. But it's this idea of this repetition and
(07:20):
this perfection, and this is how it's done for hundreds
of years, and this is how you turn up potato
until you get it perfect. And you had to redo
it and you were making all of these potatoes. In
the school. We started at the salad station, and then
we did the fish station and the meat station and dessert,
and then one of the stations was cooking for the
restaurant of the school, and so you really get a
(07:43):
chance to learn how a restaurant works and the rules
of cooking, which are so it's all about.
Speaker 1 (07:51):
Technique, you know, Like I said, Escofe is like the
Bible really set the standard for what a restaurant should be.
There's so many and you go to a French culinary
school and it's like it has to be this way.
There's a bit of a revolt today against all of this,
against the brigade system, against you know, I'm not doing
the sauce like that, I'm gonna do it like this.
And so it's interesting being in France. I was in
(08:13):
Provence and there was a couple of young chefs there
that were like, I hate the brigade system. I hate
that we are so rigid. But they all went to
Culinari school, That's what I was going to say. But
they know it. But they said. And there was another
chef in Bordeaux I met, and he goes, you cannot
break the rules until you know the rules. So even them,
even then, they were like a French purist. And I
think you know it because of institutions like Lecordeon Blue
(08:36):
in Paris, which was founded by this French journalist Marthe
Destil in eighteen ninety five. It's trained generations of chefs,
not just French but international in these classical traditions, and
so many people continue to use these French techniques and
terminologies like I said, saute soux flea a roue loss.
(09:01):
It's so to me fascinating to see like the quurt
On Blue having such history and it has its roots
in the Order of the Holy Spirit.
Speaker 4 (09:11):
What is that? What does that mean?
Speaker 2 (09:13):
Order of the Holy Spirit was an exclusive French order
that was founded in fifteen seventy eight, where its members
were known as courtum Blues and they were renowned for
their extravagant feasts. That's where Kardon Blue comes from.
Speaker 1 (09:32):
The Michelin Guide, which you know, it didn't enter the
United States until two thousand and five. Yeah, I didn't
know this, but it was established in the nineteen hundreds,
and I always, you know, I hear it. I'm in
the food scene. I know, like one star, two star,
three stars, but I never knew what the stars meant,
and I was like, wait, what are the qualifications? Well,
(09:53):
first of all, the Mission Guide established this like formal
system of grading restaurants really just because a tire company
thought you might want if you're driving, you know, to Britannia,
you might want to know where to stop and grab
a sandwich. It wasn't this this, you know, such a
sophisticated system today. It was literally some dudes who were like,
(10:15):
I love that sandwich on my way to Provence. Okay,
maybe stop there. Michelin the tire company just thought this
guide would be helpful. And so the one star is
you have good food, two stars is like, oh my gosh,
worth a detour, and three stars was a destination you
planned a trip to go to this restaurant. So, I
(10:37):
mean there's been many a restaurants I have made trips around.
I'm going to Elbois in Roses and Cataluna, Spain, which
took plane, train, automobile, scaling down a mountain, take a
little boat like it.
Speaker 2 (10:52):
Was no Marty White adventure.
Speaker 1 (10:55):
I yell it fed on every time I see them
now because we've become friends. And I was like, how
you put your restaurant in the most difficult place to arrive?
Speaker 2 (11:03):
Oh, he was like, Jesus chrise, so people can tell
the story to make it a whole experience. From the
grand dining rooms of Europe's Michelin Star temples to an
intimate restaurant in San Antonio, Texas. I'm thrilled to welcome
Chefrico Torres of Mishli, a Michelin start restaurant that transforms
(11:24):
Mexican culinary history and tradition into an elevated contemporary experience.
Here's Chef Rico showing us that you don't need to
cross the Atlantic to experience world class cuisine, not when
you approach cooking through culinary history, deep research, storytelling, and tradition.
I'm so excited to see you, and I've been wanting
(11:45):
to have you on the show since the first season.
Speaker 4 (11:48):
Thank you. I'm a big fan.
Speaker 5 (11:50):
The last trip that we did told pass so was
roughly around eight hours. My wife and I listened to
endless episodes. I just had a blast laughing and learning.
And what a great podcast you guys have going on here.
Speaker 2 (12:02):
Thank you for listening, and we have you on for
our restaurant history episode. And I mean, restaurants are so
much more than places to eat, right, I see them
as cultural archives. And Miishli, your Michelin starred restaurant in
San Antonio, is the perfect example.
Speaker 5 (12:18):
Mishli means cloud in Nawa's We're spoken throughout the Assac Empire.
Speaker 4 (12:23):
So in the way that clouds travel, our menu.
Speaker 5 (12:26):
Is also traveled back in time, state to state, region
and region. And this is something we've been doing for
twelve years now. We just turned twelve last month and
changing out the menus every three months. So as a
matter of fact, we're in the middle of changing out
a menu.
Speaker 4 (12:40):
This week.
Speaker 5 (12:42):
We're leaving the Pacific Coast where we studied everything from
Baja to Chappa's and now we're going into the winter
in Wahio and the Central Highlands and talking about the
mining towns and the art of preservation and fermentation and
the convents and the women that really shape the flavors
of this landscape. For me, it's a really fun menu
because just kind of get to see you in the
(13:02):
mood for Christmas and the holidays, and it's gonna be
a fun one.
Speaker 2 (13:06):
So what was it about diving into history that drew
you in? It's such a different concept than just a
regular menu.
Speaker 5 (13:13):
To be quite honest, I did never really thought I
or wanted to be a chef. It just kind of
something that I started working in the kitchen. I took
over a catering company, I taught myself how to cook,
and it just never stopped and it kept getting better,
and it's brought me so many wonderful experiences and met
so many wonderful people. But the idea of running a
restaurant in the traditional sense was too monotonous for me.
Speaker 4 (13:37):
You know.
Speaker 5 (13:37):
I like to think of myself as an artist, everything
from a doodle on a napkin to my relationships with
people to the way we solve problems, and this was
one of those situations. I knew that I wanted to
create beautiful food, but it needed to have substance. It
needed to have something that really drew us, drew the
customer in. But we quickly realized that going backward was
(13:57):
even more exciting, and to to rescue some ancient techniques
and to really get deep into the histories of what
Mexican distronomy was all about.
Speaker 4 (14:07):
And so I remember the.
Speaker 5 (14:08):
First time cooking my ethnaks to mile and it was
like something in your DNA wakes up.
Speaker 4 (14:14):
And that was a very profound moment for me. I
could feel it.
Speaker 5 (14:18):
I could feel it right now, like myselfs are kind
of like tingling, just thinking about like this is something
that absolutely connects you to your ancestors.
Speaker 4 (14:25):
And there's the same thing on and on. You know.
Speaker 5 (14:27):
There was so many times that I had to learn
how to make a moiley that I had never tasted before.
Speaker 4 (14:31):
So what I did was I learned what the ingredients.
Speaker 5 (14:34):
Were and who they like to hang out with and
how they like to be treated, and little by little
I started being able to recreate these these flavors which
at some point I never tasted it.
Speaker 4 (14:45):
And then I got a chance to taste these things.
It's like, well, I wasn't very.
Speaker 5 (14:48):
Far off for I think I'm doing a little bit
better sometimes you know, it just depends where you're at.
It's just been such an honor to be at the
head of the restaurant and doing something like this.
Speaker 1 (14:58):
I was going to ask you, like, how do people spawn?
Speaker 2 (15:00):
I mean, because there is so much soul to these
and there's so much I mean, these recipes are these
living archives of memory, of nostalgia of so many things.
So how do people respond not only to the flavors,
but also to learning all of this new history?
Speaker 5 (15:16):
I mean, you're right, there is a lot of soul
to this, and I hear that a lot. I hear
a lot of people come to the restaurant talk about
that they've been to other highly awarded restaurants, but that
the food here has so much more soalt and so
it's a beautiful thing. And I get people that maybe
haven't been back home in Mexico for many years and
remember a smell or remember the taste of piloccio or
(15:39):
the taste of molo or something, the smoky alleys of
oahaka or something, or bread. And then I have people
that have no idea really what they've gotten themselves into,
and had one perception of what Mexican food was, and
it's usually relegated to this Nordenio slash text mechs you know,
astronomy that we're familiar with in this area, which is fine,
(16:00):
but it's there was so much more to talk about
and tell. And then when we do menus that really
may create an art that connects Mexico to other cultures.
Speaker 4 (16:11):
That's even more impressive.
Speaker 5 (16:13):
And people hadn't really ever thought like, well, how did
Cacao end up in the rest of the world, and
how did Mexico end up with things like cilatros and
limes and mangoes. So it's fun to tell these stories
and the guests really feel it, and they, you know,
they have some kind of connection to it in their
own ways, because whatever heritage you were from, it's somehow
(16:33):
correlated in Mexico at some point.
Speaker 1 (16:35):
What does that mean to you?
Speaker 2 (16:37):
I mean, you have a Michelin star, and what does
it mean to have that star and.
Speaker 6 (16:42):
To be able to have claimed it through these historic
recipes and ingredients and through history.
Speaker 5 (16:53):
Man, I don't know if it's such a crazy honor
to be validated in this way to have a star
for this type of work, but also because I'm trying
to reinterpret and bring back to life work that people
have done for centuries, that women have been cooking for
centuries that have been.
Speaker 4 (17:09):
Forgotten in a lot of ways, or we're never.
Speaker 5 (17:11):
Talked about when Mexican cookbooks came out originally or.
Speaker 4 (17:15):
Were omitted for one reason or another.
Speaker 5 (17:17):
To create the identity of Mexico and to be here
and to have the team that I have and Sheff Alexanda,
who's the head of the kitchen right now, and she
puts out these beautiful ideas as well and does it
as a Latina. It's all very, I don't know, surreal
in its own way because a lot of times I
feel like I'm keeping up with them or you know
(17:38):
that I'm not worthy of it. But we got to
keep pushing. We've got to keep telling the stories because
we want to preserve these recipes. If we want to
protect them and show reverence for them, then it has
to be done in these ways.
Speaker 4 (17:50):
That's the soul of the restaurant, that's the soul of
the food in itself.
Speaker 5 (17:55):
And to be able to treat that with respect and
to honor it and to show it to somebody else
shows them that there's that connectivity between.
Speaker 4 (18:04):
Humans no matter where you are in the world, no matter.
Speaker 5 (18:06):
Who you are, if you start talking out a thread
on the fabric of human, the human fabric, and you're
going to find yourself connected to somebody else.
Speaker 1 (18:16):
Don't go anywhere hungry for history. We'll be right back.
Speaker 2 (18:26):
Let's talk about the man who revolutionized the kitchen, A Goose,
just go few. You mentioned it before.
Speaker 1 (18:33):
We have to talk about this guy.
Speaker 2 (18:36):
He was the one to organize the kitchen, standardized recipes
and techniques in this kitchen brigade in the book Legi.
Speaker 1 (18:48):
Guide.
Speaker 2 (18:49):
Every chef to even today right has this book. It's
the blueprint for professional cooking across much of the world
right to date. It's the bible for chefs worldwide. So
Skofier was born in eighteen forty six. He was born
in a small village in France, and he began his
career as a teenager and he quickly rose to the ranks.
(19:11):
He transformed cooking into an art and a science, and
he brought order to these chaotic nineteenth century kitchens by
introducing the brigade system. So this is like this military
style hierarchy that still used in professional kitchens. The chef
te cuisine, the sioux chef, the Lione cook.
Speaker 1 (19:29):
The reason he wanted to do this is because he
was in the military himself and he loved the hierarchy
of the military system. And when he was in the military,
he's like a kitchen would benefit from a brigade where
there was a hierarchy and a system that everybody had
a job. And I thought that was interesting that he
(19:50):
really took from his experience in the military and brought
it into the kitchen.
Speaker 2 (19:55):
That is so interesting, it makes so much sense.
Speaker 1 (19:58):
In a book a Scofia talks about the chef is
a general. The sioux chef is this first general. It
is definitely derived from military experience and the hierarchy of military.
Speaker 2 (20:11):
And this book, this leguide, he simplifies the mother sauces
the bechamel and vellute, espianol tomato on holidays, and these
had been developed by another superstar of French cuisine, Marie
Antoine Careme, who was called the King of chefs and
the Chef of kings, and he Karem is credited with
(20:31):
popularizing the professional chef's uniform and his whole thing is
like chefs to present themselves with the same dignity and
professionalism as any other respected trade of art. So he
introduced the chef's coat, the white chef's coat, and the
toqu the tall hat. So he transformed cooking from a
trade to an art.
Speaker 1 (20:51):
Well, you know, so Escofier ended up teaming up with
Caesar Ritz in Monte Carlo. He worked for him and
then and he ended up at the Savoy Hotel in London,
and that place, like the Savoy Hotel, attracted royalty and
celebrities and really Cesa Ritz and Escofier created the dining experience.
(21:17):
And Escofier at the at the Savoy in London created
so many iconic dishes. The peach Melba, which is those
poached peaches with Vanella ice cream. It was named after
an opera singer, Nellie Molma, who was a regular guest.
He invented Cherry's Jubilee I Love Christ. Yeah, and he
(21:39):
called him that in honor of Queen Victoria's Diamond Jubilee
because it was in eighteen ninety seven. So it wasn't
it was they made things like not just food again,
it was like an experience. It was you know, it
wasn't just dessert. It was spectacle. So interesting how he
really not shaped defined French cuisine, which in turn defying
(22:00):
the world cuisine totally.
Speaker 2 (22:02):
And this idea of Flambay table side.
Speaker 4 (22:06):
That's like.
Speaker 2 (22:06):
I remember going to a restaurant when I was little
with my parents and just seeing that was just like,
oh my god, because it was it was a story,
it was performance, and I thought, this is so fast,
nothing cooler. It's so fancy, so fancy. So we have
the restaurant, right, and then we also have the brasserie.
(22:27):
So you learned some interesting things about the brasserie when
you were in France.
Speaker 1 (22:31):
Yeah, I was in Alzaz, which is the German side
of France. It's on the German side, and it was
one of the few places in France that was Germany,
and then it wasn't, and then it was, and then
it wasn't. I mean even in World War one and two,
there were certain families that had a fight against each other,
like your own brother, just because of the year you
(22:51):
were born, you were a German soldier or a French soldier.
And so they really created this identity of the Alsatian.
They really created they go, we're not French or German,
we are Alsatian. And in Alzas. In this region, traditionally,
brasserie was a place. It was a brewery where they
(23:13):
would make beer, and that makes sense because it was
you know, sometimes Germany, sometimes not. And there was also
it was forbidden when it was German rule to drink
French wine, to eat French food, and so they must
brew beer, and the French word to brew is brassea.
And so they started serving steak free, sunion soup, seafood
(23:37):
platters in these brasseries. So during one of these back
and forth where now we're Germany, now we weren't like
it kept the territory kept switching hands. When Germany took over,
a lot of Alsatians left and went to Paris and
they took the brasserie with them, and that's why there's
so many brasseries in Paris. Is because of these Alsatian
(24:01):
refugees have like left and they were like, we want
to continue eating French style, drinking French wine. And that's
what started the explosion of brasseries in Paris and then
throughout France. All of the terms that come from France
to restaurant, brasserie, bistro, cafe, like they're all they all
(24:23):
mean different things, but they all were born in France,
and they all different things. You know, cafes originally a
coffee house, and a bistro was like a small, modest restaurant,
pretty casual. You know. A brasserie was like loud and bustling,
and you know days yeah, yeah, and then a restaurant
is like probably the most formal one of all of these.
(24:45):
It may require reservation.
Speaker 2 (24:49):
The other ones maybe not.
Speaker 1 (24:50):
Let's shift gears, let's take a let's take a look
at Mexico's restaurant history. Did the French trigger anything for
restaurants in Mexico?
Speaker 2 (25:00):
Mexico is interesting. In fifteen twenty five, Mexico became the
first Latin American country to regulate businesses dedicated solely to
food and drink. It was part of Spain's effort to
adapt European urban models to the New World, and early
laws governed everything from you know, where markets could be
set up, how bread was priced, how much bulka could
(25:21):
be sold. So the roots of food regulation in Latin
America traced to colonial Mexico, and they blended indigenous traditions
with European city planning. So we start seeing early on,
we start seeing new kinds of drinking establishments and dining establishments,
so different than the restaurants. Still early on, like we
said at the beginning, people have eaten at markets and
(25:44):
street vendors basically for millennia all over the world. But
all of a sudden we see things like bodegonnas. These
like rustic spaces with simple foods. You have cantinas and
little fondas that sell home cooking and so. And then
in seventeen eighty five we started seeing the first cafes
and they're selling coffee, they're selling mos with beans and cheese,
(26:10):
and they were super popular.
Speaker 1 (26:12):
Did Mexico ever serve French cuisine? Yes? What year?
Speaker 2 (26:18):
First restaurants, the early restaurants during the Portfitrieto who we
talked about, he was a Francophile. He loved everything European,
especially everything French. So in eighteen fifty two there was
a restaurant called Deliturvide, one of Mexico's first modern hotels.
It opened a restaurant that served French cuisine. And this
is the time, right Mexican elite was looking at Frances
(26:39):
as a model, So you have that in eighteen fifty two.
In eighteen ninety two, there were two brothers from Asturias,
Manuel Rafael Brenzurias Mithiira du Tierra. They opened a restaurant
called Brenez and it became a pioneer of cuisine in
Mexico City.
Speaker 1 (26:59):
And it's been around.
Speaker 2 (27:00):
It's still in business and different it's been in different locations,
but in its heyday it was frequented by everyone from
Bantoiya Turing the Revolution to Freeeda Calo and even Walt
Disney later, so they searched French food, but it was
also one of the first restaurants to serve gusanos Marie.
So you have these sort of you know, we start
(27:21):
seeing blending of Mexican ingredients.
Speaker 1 (27:23):
With French style foods. So the modern day restaurants today
are really an extension of the chefs right behind it,
like like Escofier back then. There's a lot of people
doing this for Mexican cuisine. We have Enrico Vera with
Fujo and with Quinni. Like if you look at their
(27:46):
Michelin Star, you know, fine dining experience, it's so elevated.
It's definitely reminiscent of French times, but it's indigenous ingredients.
Speaker 2 (27:58):
Escofia turned chefs into discipline professionals with the kitchen brigade
right organized, respected central. You know, it's it's He's the
one that paved the way to the celebrity chef. He
was sort of the one, and now we have, you know,
from Top Chef to Rossendres to Boordain. This sort of
food media landscape has exploded, right and the concept of
(28:21):
the restaurant has completely changed as well. We have people
like Hilberto Setina Holbosch who has a Michelin Star. He's
in a tiny little market in Los Angeles. And then
we have these backyard restaurants as well. Godo Tentita is
one of them, not far from where I live, and
it's just amazing Wahakan food in somebody's backyard. Thank you
(28:46):
so much for tuning in, and thank you again to
Chefrico Threes. When you're ready for a culinary pilgrimage, but
Mishlei in San Antonio on your list.
Speaker 1 (28:55):
We are continuing our conversation next week with our Food
Critics episode. I can't wait for y'all to hear that one.
Speaker 2 (29:02):
Where there's food, there's criticism. So let's see you next week.
Speaker 1 (29:08):
Hungary for History is a hyphen Media production in partnership
with Iheart's Michaultura podcast network.
Speaker 2 (29:14):
For more of your favorite shows, visit the iHeartRadio app,
Apple Podcasts, or wherever you get your podcasts.
My name is Eva Longoria and I am Ma de
remez Racon and welcome to Hungry for History, a podcast
that explores our past and present through food.
Speaker 2 (00:13):
On every episode, we'll talk about the history of some
of our favorite dishes, ingredients, and beverages.
Speaker 1 (00:18):
From our culture. So make yourself at home.
Speaker 3 (00:20):
Even so, we had a three part series talking about
revolutions and one of those was the French.
Speaker 1 (00:33):
I am in France now I'm learning and eating so much,
and one of the one of the biggest things I've
been learning is really French history, not just how the
French Revolution democratized food, but really the history of France
is so parallel with the history of food in this country,
and how a lot of what we know today is
(00:56):
owed to the French. And a lot of people don't
like to give them credit because they give themselves a
lot of credit. But I think it's well deserving. I think,
you know, they hold their place in the hierarchy of
culinary gastronomy history. They have a well deserved place in
(01:18):
the hierarchy of gastronomy.
Speaker 2 (01:20):
Yes, and they sparked the restaurant. The French Revolution sparked
the restaurant. In our love for dining out. So let's
dive into restaurant history.
Speaker 1 (01:30):
You know, how many of you have been to a
restaurant and sat down with a menu. You know, people
around the world have been eating outside of the home
for a while, whether you grab a bite or eat
something from a street vendor or a market stall. But
the restaurant concept is very, very different. And the word
restaurant comes from restaurant, which means to provide for or
(01:55):
literally it actually means to restore to a former state.
We talked about this in our French Revolution episode. Were
that before the revolution, meals were eaten at home and
at inns. There was like a set menu and some
shared tables, like they made a stew. Today, anybody who
came in ate the stew. But the revolution really gave
(02:17):
rise to this new idea of restaurants.
Speaker 2 (02:21):
And so during the revolution, nobles fled or were executed
and leaving many private chefs unemployed. And so these chefs
who were trained in the finest culinary traditions, they opened
up their own establishments for paying customers. And what helped
them really is in seventeen ninety one, the guilds were abolished.
(02:42):
Prior to the revolution, gills regulated trades and crafts. So
if you were in the baking guild, all you could
do was bake. If you were in the butchering guild,
all you could do was butcher. This was abolished, and
so this gave chefs more opportunity to be innovative and.
Speaker 1 (03:02):
To expect more their own business.
Speaker 2 (03:04):
And open their own businesses and bring fine dining to
a broader.
Speaker 1 (03:08):
Public totally, and it really was born from people who
were out of work. They you know, were the kings,
you know, bakers for centuries. I mean some were like
eighth generation you know bakers, and that's all they've ever known.
And now, you know, the fall of the monarchy, they
found themselves, you know, to be out on the street.
And I think the difference also between you know, eating
(03:32):
in an inn or a pub, in a communal table,
whatever they cooked for that day. The big difference was
now chefs were able to do a la carte and
you could choose like I would like that or I
would like this, and patrons dined at private tables, not
the communal table like in the past. And so this
(03:53):
also created and like I said, Louis, the fourteen fifteenth
really created the idea of food for enjoyment, not just sustenance,
and so this is like an extension of that. Dining
became an experience and you would go somewhere. All the
restaurants weren't open to anyone with money.
Speaker 3 (04:12):
You know.
Speaker 1 (04:12):
The idea of democratized by dining was was very revolutionary.
But Paris became the restaurant capital of the world and
it still holds that title today.
Speaker 2 (04:21):
I think I want to add something to what you
said about Louis the fourteenth, and he's the one that
made you know, food this sort of experience and performance.
But so just imagine, like I love to take myself
back to this time period and imagine, Okay, you have
a menu and you could choose what you want, and
you're at separate tables and you're observing other people, and
(04:45):
it's the performance, but in a different way. It becomes
this sort of public performance. So now you can kind
of do that, but just watch the person sitting next
to you eat. I don't know, it just it just
shifted this idea of food as performance, which is really
kind of interesting.
Speaker 4 (05:02):
You know.
Speaker 1 (05:02):
One of the first true restaurants in Paris was La
Grand Lagonne tavern de Lane opened in seventeen eight two.
It really flourished during the Revolution. And this one was
founded by Antoine Bouvilliers that we talked about. He was
a chef to aristocrats and he combined refined service, all wineless,
seasonal menus, elegant decor. So he really helps set the
(05:24):
standard for what a restaurant could be and really what
a restaurant is as we know them today.
Speaker 2 (05:30):
Yeah, and these early restaurants had enormous menus like twelve soup,
sixty five entrees of bee for chicken or mutton, and
fifteen rows, like fifty desserts. I mean, it was it
was crazy.
Speaker 4 (05:41):
It's like going to a Jewish delly. Today. Menu keeps
like on and on and on.
Speaker 1 (05:46):
Oh god, it's going to the cheesecake factory and I
have like eighty five page menu. I'm like, swups up
all of this? What is well? You keep a question
that I get asked a lot since I've been doing
the Searching Force series. You know, Searching started with with Italy,
and then we did Mexico, and we did Spain and
now we're doing France. And people kept asking me why
(06:06):
I'm we done France? Why I am he in France,
and I think a lot of people wonder, like, why
did French kind of become the standard in the world,
And it's because it was the first to formalize, you know,
the cuisine. French cuisine became the standard because it was
the first to be formalized and taught as a system.
And there's so many rules and kind of rigidity and
(06:29):
in the techniques and the recipes and the presentation and
the kitchen structure frameworks that we still use today. They're
taught in culinary schools all around the world. But they
really codified things, whether it was a recipe, whether it
was how the kitchen should work, whether it was how
the front of a restaurant should be creating matready capitan,
(06:49):
I mean, all of these roles that we know today,
you know, head chefs, sioux chef, pastry, chef, like, there's
so much that we still do because they were the
first to codify and formalize everything.
Speaker 2 (07:00):
I was in college called French Culinary Institute in New York.
It's no longer there. This was in two thousand. It
was really fascinating because we learned all of these skills,
Like there was a whole day that we turned little
potatoes and tournage and they had to look like perfect
little footballs. But it's this idea of this repetition and
(07:20):
this perfection, and this is how it's done for hundreds
of years, and this is how you turn up potato
until you get it perfect. And you had to redo
it and you were making all of these potatoes. In
the school. We started at the salad station, and then
we did the fish station and the meat station and dessert,
and then one of the stations was cooking for the
restaurant of the school, and so you really get a
(07:43):
chance to learn how a restaurant works and the rules
of cooking, which are so it's all about.
Speaker 1 (07:51):
Technique, you know, Like I said, Escofe is like the
Bible really set the standard for what a restaurant should be.
There's so many and you go to a French culinary
school and it's like it has to be this way.
There's a bit of a revolt today against all of this,
against the brigade system, against you know, I'm not doing
the sauce like that, I'm gonna do it like this.
And so it's interesting being in France. I was in
(08:13):
Provence and there was a couple of young chefs there
that were like, I hate the brigade system. I hate
that we are so rigid. But they all went to
Culinari school, That's what I was going to say. But
they know it. But they said. And there was another
chef in Bordeaux I met, and he goes, you cannot
break the rules until you know the rules. So even them,
even then, they were like a French purist. And I
think you know it because of institutions like Lecordeon Blue
(08:36):
in Paris, which was founded by this French journalist Marthe
Destil in eighteen ninety five. It's trained generations of chefs,
not just French but international in these classical traditions, and
so many people continue to use these French techniques and
terminologies like I said, saute soux flea a roue loss.
(09:01):
It's so to me fascinating to see like the quurt
On Blue having such history and it has its roots
in the Order of the Holy Spirit.
Speaker 4 (09:11):
What is that? What does that mean?
Speaker 2 (09:13):
Order of the Holy Spirit was an exclusive French order
that was founded in fifteen seventy eight, where its members
were known as courtum Blues and they were renowned for
their extravagant feasts. That's where Kardon Blue comes from.
Speaker 1 (09:32):
The Michelin Guide, which you know, it didn't enter the
United States until two thousand and five. Yeah, I didn't
know this, but it was established in the nineteen hundreds,
and I always, you know, I hear it. I'm in
the food scene. I know, like one star, two star,
three stars, but I never knew what the stars meant,
and I was like, wait, what are the qualifications? Well,
(09:53):
first of all, the Mission Guide established this like formal
system of grading restaurants really just because a tire company
thought you might want if you're driving, you know, to Britannia,
you might want to know where to stop and grab
a sandwich. It wasn't this this, you know, such a
sophisticated system today. It was literally some dudes who were like,
(10:15):
I love that sandwich on my way to Provence. Okay,
maybe stop there. Michelin the tire company just thought this
guide would be helpful. And so the one star is
you have good food, two stars is like, oh my gosh,
worth a detour, and three stars was a destination you
planned a trip to go to this restaurant. So, I
(10:37):
mean there's been many a restaurants I have made trips around.
I'm going to Elbois in Roses and Cataluna, Spain, which
took plane, train, automobile, scaling down a mountain, take a
little boat like it.
Speaker 2 (10:52):
Was no Marty White adventure.
Speaker 1 (10:55):
I yell it fed on every time I see them
now because we've become friends. And I was like, how
you put your restaurant in the most difficult place to arrive?
Speaker 2 (11:03):
Oh, he was like, Jesus chrise, so people can tell
the story to make it a whole experience. From the
grand dining rooms of Europe's Michelin Star temples to an
intimate restaurant in San Antonio, Texas. I'm thrilled to welcome
Chefrico Torres of Mishli, a Michelin start restaurant that transforms
(11:24):
Mexican culinary history and tradition into an elevated contemporary experience.
Here's Chef Rico showing us that you don't need to
cross the Atlantic to experience world class cuisine, not when
you approach cooking through culinary history, deep research, storytelling, and tradition.
I'm so excited to see you, and I've been wanting
(11:45):
to have you on the show since the first season.
Speaker 4 (11:48):
Thank you. I'm a big fan.
Speaker 5 (11:50):
The last trip that we did told pass so was
roughly around eight hours. My wife and I listened to
endless episodes. I just had a blast laughing and learning.
And what a great podcast you guys have going on here.
Speaker 2 (12:02):
Thank you for listening, and we have you on for
our restaurant history episode. And I mean, restaurants are so
much more than places to eat, right, I see them
as cultural archives. And Miishli, your Michelin starred restaurant in
San Antonio, is the perfect example.
Speaker 5 (12:18):
Mishli means cloud in Nawa's We're spoken throughout the Assac Empire.
Speaker 4 (12:23):
So in the way that clouds travel, our menu.
Speaker 5 (12:26):
Is also traveled back in time, state to state, region
and region. And this is something we've been doing for
twelve years now. We just turned twelve last month and
changing out the menus every three months. So as a
matter of fact, we're in the middle of changing out
a menu.
Speaker 4 (12:40):
This week.
Speaker 5 (12:42):
We're leaving the Pacific Coast where we studied everything from
Baja to Chappa's and now we're going into the winter
in Wahio and the Central Highlands and talking about the
mining towns and the art of preservation and fermentation and
the convents and the women that really shape the flavors
of this landscape. For me, it's a really fun menu
because just kind of get to see you in the
(13:02):
mood for Christmas and the holidays, and it's gonna be
a fun one.
Speaker 2 (13:06):
So what was it about diving into history that drew
you in? It's such a different concept than just a
regular menu.
Speaker 5 (13:13):
To be quite honest, I did never really thought I
or wanted to be a chef. It just kind of
something that I started working in the kitchen. I took
over a catering company, I taught myself how to cook,
and it just never stopped and it kept getting better,
and it's brought me so many wonderful experiences and met
so many wonderful people. But the idea of running a
restaurant in the traditional sense was too monotonous for me.
Speaker 4 (13:37):
You know.
Speaker 5 (13:37):
I like to think of myself as an artist, everything
from a doodle on a napkin to my relationships with
people to the way we solve problems, and this was
one of those situations. I knew that I wanted to
create beautiful food, but it needed to have substance. It
needed to have something that really drew us, drew the
customer in. But we quickly realized that going backward was
(13:57):
even more exciting, and to to rescue some ancient techniques
and to really get deep into the histories of what
Mexican distronomy was all about.
Speaker 4 (14:07):
And so I remember the.
Speaker 5 (14:08):
First time cooking my ethnaks to mile and it was
like something in your DNA wakes up.
Speaker 4 (14:14):
And that was a very profound moment for me. I
could feel it.
Speaker 5 (14:18):
I could feel it right now, like myselfs are kind
of like tingling, just thinking about like this is something
that absolutely connects you to your ancestors.
Speaker 4 (14:25):
And there's the same thing on and on. You know.
Speaker 5 (14:27):
There was so many times that I had to learn
how to make a moiley that I had never tasted before.
Speaker 4 (14:31):
So what I did was I learned what the ingredients.
Speaker 5 (14:34):
Were and who they like to hang out with and
how they like to be treated, and little by little
I started being able to recreate these these flavors which
at some point I never tasted it.
Speaker 4 (14:45):
And then I got a chance to taste these things.
It's like, well, I wasn't very.
Speaker 5 (14:48):
Far off for I think I'm doing a little bit
better sometimes you know, it just depends where you're at.
It's just been such an honor to be at the
head of the restaurant and doing something like this.
Speaker 1 (14:58):
I was going to ask you, like, how do people spawn?
Speaker 2 (15:00):
I mean, because there is so much soul to these
and there's so much I mean, these recipes are these
living archives of memory, of nostalgia of so many things.
So how do people respond not only to the flavors,
but also to learning all of this new history?
Speaker 5 (15:16):
I mean, you're right, there is a lot of soul
to this, and I hear that a lot. I hear
a lot of people come to the restaurant talk about
that they've been to other highly awarded restaurants, but that
the food here has so much more soalt and so
it's a beautiful thing. And I get people that maybe
haven't been back home in Mexico for many years and
remember a smell or remember the taste of piloccio or
(15:39):
the taste of molo or something, the smoky alleys of
oahaka or something, or bread. And then I have people
that have no idea really what they've gotten themselves into,
and had one perception of what Mexican food was, and
it's usually relegated to this Nordenio slash text mechs you know,
astronomy that we're familiar with in this area, which is fine,
(16:00):
but it's there was so much more to talk about
and tell. And then when we do menus that really
may create an art that connects Mexico to other cultures.
Speaker 4 (16:11):
That's even more impressive.
Speaker 5 (16:13):
And people hadn't really ever thought like, well, how did
Cacao end up in the rest of the world, and
how did Mexico end up with things like cilatros and
limes and mangoes. So it's fun to tell these stories
and the guests really feel it, and they, you know,
they have some kind of connection to it in their
own ways, because whatever heritage you were from, it's somehow
(16:33):
correlated in Mexico at some point.
Speaker 1 (16:35):
What does that mean to you?
Speaker 2 (16:37):
I mean, you have a Michelin star, and what does
it mean to have that star and.
Speaker 6 (16:42):
To be able to have claimed it through these historic
recipes and ingredients and through history.
Speaker 5 (16:53):
Man, I don't know if it's such a crazy honor
to be validated in this way to have a star
for this type of work, but also because I'm trying
to reinterpret and bring back to life work that people
have done for centuries, that women have been cooking for
centuries that have been.
Speaker 4 (17:09):
Forgotten in a lot of ways, or we're never.
Speaker 5 (17:11):
Talked about when Mexican cookbooks came out originally or.
Speaker 4 (17:15):
Were omitted for one reason or another.
Speaker 5 (17:17):
To create the identity of Mexico and to be here
and to have the team that I have and Sheff Alexanda,
who's the head of the kitchen right now, and she
puts out these beautiful ideas as well and does it
as a Latina. It's all very, I don't know, surreal
in its own way because a lot of times I
feel like I'm keeping up with them or you know
(17:38):
that I'm not worthy of it. But we got to
keep pushing. We've got to keep telling the stories because
we want to preserve these recipes. If we want to
protect them and show reverence for them, then it has
to be done in these ways.
Speaker 4 (17:50):
That's the soul of the restaurant, that's the soul of
the food in itself.
Speaker 5 (17:55):
And to be able to treat that with respect and
to honor it and to show it to somebody else
shows them that there's that connectivity between.
Speaker 4 (18:04):
Humans no matter where you are in the world, no matter.
Speaker 5 (18:06):
Who you are, if you start talking out a thread
on the fabric of human, the human fabric, and you're
going to find yourself connected to somebody else.
Speaker 1 (18:16):
Don't go anywhere hungry for history. We'll be right back.
Speaker 2 (18:26):
Let's talk about the man who revolutionized the kitchen, A Goose,
just go few. You mentioned it before.
Speaker 1 (18:33):
We have to talk about this guy.
Speaker 2 (18:36):
He was the one to organize the kitchen, standardized recipes
and techniques in this kitchen brigade in the book Legi.
Speaker 1 (18:48):
Guide.
Speaker 2 (18:49):
Every chef to even today right has this book. It's
the blueprint for professional cooking across much of the world
right to date. It's the bible for chefs worldwide. So
Skofier was born in eighteen forty six. He was born
in a small village in France, and he began his
career as a teenager and he quickly rose to the ranks.
(19:11):
He transformed cooking into an art and a science, and
he brought order to these chaotic nineteenth century kitchens by
introducing the brigade system. So this is like this military
style hierarchy that still used in professional kitchens. The chef
te cuisine, the sioux chef, the Lione cook.
Speaker 1 (19:29):
The reason he wanted to do this is because he
was in the military himself and he loved the hierarchy
of the military system. And when he was in the military,
he's like a kitchen would benefit from a brigade where
there was a hierarchy and a system that everybody had
a job. And I thought that was interesting that he
(19:50):
really took from his experience in the military and brought
it into the kitchen.
Speaker 2 (19:55):
That is so interesting, it makes so much sense.
Speaker 1 (19:58):
In a book a Scofia talks about the chef is
a general. The sioux chef is this first general. It
is definitely derived from military experience and the hierarchy of military.
Speaker 2 (20:11):
And this book, this leguide, he simplifies the mother sauces
the bechamel and vellute, espianol tomato on holidays, and these
had been developed by another superstar of French cuisine, Marie
Antoine Careme, who was called the King of chefs and
the Chef of kings, and he Karem is credited with
(20:31):
popularizing the professional chef's uniform and his whole thing is
like chefs to present themselves with the same dignity and
professionalism as any other respected trade of art. So he
introduced the chef's coat, the white chef's coat, and the
toqu the tall hat. So he transformed cooking from a
trade to an art.
Speaker 1 (20:51):
Well, you know, so Escofier ended up teaming up with
Caesar Ritz in Monte Carlo. He worked for him and
then and he ended up at the Savoy Hotel in London,
and that place, like the Savoy Hotel, attracted royalty and
celebrities and really Cesa Ritz and Escofier created the dining experience.
(21:17):
And Escofier at the at the Savoy in London created
so many iconic dishes. The peach Melba, which is those
poached peaches with Vanella ice cream. It was named after
an opera singer, Nellie Molma, who was a regular guest.
He invented Cherry's Jubilee I Love Christ. Yeah, and he
(21:39):
called him that in honor of Queen Victoria's Diamond Jubilee
because it was in eighteen ninety seven. So it wasn't
it was they made things like not just food again,
it was like an experience. It was you know, it
wasn't just dessert. It was spectacle. So interesting how he
really not shaped defined French cuisine, which in turn defying
(22:00):
the world cuisine totally.
Speaker 2 (22:02):
And this idea of Flambay table side.
Speaker 4 (22:06):
That's like.
Speaker 2 (22:06):
I remember going to a restaurant when I was little
with my parents and just seeing that was just like,
oh my god, because it was it was a story,
it was performance, and I thought, this is so fast,
nothing cooler. It's so fancy, so fancy. So we have
the restaurant, right, and then we also have the brasserie.
(22:27):
So you learned some interesting things about the brasserie when
you were in France.
Speaker 1 (22:31):
Yeah, I was in Alzaz, which is the German side
of France. It's on the German side, and it was
one of the few places in France that was Germany,
and then it wasn't, and then it was, and then
it wasn't. I mean even in World War one and two,
there were certain families that had a fight against each other,
like your own brother, just because of the year you
(22:51):
were born, you were a German soldier or a French soldier.
And so they really created this identity of the Alsatian.
They really created they go, we're not French or German,
we are Alsatian. And in Alzas. In this region, traditionally,
brasserie was a place. It was a brewery where they
(23:13):
would make beer, and that makes sense because it was
you know, sometimes Germany, sometimes not. And there was also
it was forbidden when it was German rule to drink
French wine, to eat French food, and so they must
brew beer, and the French word to brew is brassea.
And so they started serving steak free, sunion soup, seafood
(23:37):
platters in these brasseries. So during one of these back
and forth where now we're Germany, now we weren't like
it kept the territory kept switching hands. When Germany took over,
a lot of Alsatians left and went to Paris and
they took the brasserie with them, and that's why there's
so many brasseries in Paris. Is because of these Alsatian
(24:01):
refugees have like left and they were like, we want
to continue eating French style, drinking French wine. And that's
what started the explosion of brasseries in Paris and then
throughout France. All of the terms that come from France
to restaurant, brasserie, bistro, cafe, like they're all they all
(24:23):
mean different things, but they all were born in France,
and they all different things. You know, cafes originally a
coffee house, and a bistro was like a small, modest restaurant,
pretty casual. You know. A brasserie was like loud and bustling,
and you know days yeah, yeah, and then a restaurant
is like probably the most formal one of all of these.
(24:45):
It may require reservation.
Speaker 2 (24:49):
The other ones maybe not.
Speaker 1 (24:50):
Let's shift gears, let's take a let's take a look
at Mexico's restaurant history. Did the French trigger anything for
restaurants in Mexico?
Speaker 2 (25:00):
Mexico is interesting. In fifteen twenty five, Mexico became the
first Latin American country to regulate businesses dedicated solely to
food and drink. It was part of Spain's effort to
adapt European urban models to the New World, and early
laws governed everything from you know, where markets could be
set up, how bread was priced, how much bulka could
(25:21):
be sold. So the roots of food regulation in Latin
America traced to colonial Mexico, and they blended indigenous traditions
with European city planning. So we start seeing early on,
we start seeing new kinds of drinking establishments and dining establishments,
so different than the restaurants. Still early on, like we
said at the beginning, people have eaten at markets and
(25:44):
street vendors basically for millennia all over the world. But
all of a sudden we see things like bodegonnas. These
like rustic spaces with simple foods. You have cantinas and
little fondas that sell home cooking and so. And then
in seventeen eighty five we started seeing the first cafes
and they're selling coffee, they're selling mos with beans and cheese,
(26:10):
and they were super popular.
Speaker 1 (26:12):
Did Mexico ever serve French cuisine? Yes? What year?
Speaker 2 (26:18):
First restaurants, the early restaurants during the Portfitrieto who we
talked about, he was a Francophile. He loved everything European,
especially everything French. So in eighteen fifty two there was
a restaurant called Deliturvide, one of Mexico's first modern hotels.
It opened a restaurant that served French cuisine. And this
is the time, right Mexican elite was looking at Frances
(26:39):
as a model, So you have that in eighteen fifty two.
In eighteen ninety two, there were two brothers from Asturias,
Manuel Rafael Brenzurias Mithiira du Tierra. They opened a restaurant
called Brenez and it became a pioneer of cuisine in
Mexico City.
Speaker 1 (26:59):
And it's been around.
Speaker 2 (27:00):
It's still in business and different it's been in different locations,
but in its heyday it was frequented by everyone from
Bantoiya Turing the Revolution to Freeeda Calo and even Walt
Disney later, so they searched French food, but it was
also one of the first restaurants to serve gusanos Marie.
So you have these sort of you know, we start
(27:21):
seeing blending of Mexican ingredients.
Speaker 1 (27:23):
With French style foods. So the modern day restaurants today
are really an extension of the chefs right behind it,
like like Escofier back then. There's a lot of people
doing this for Mexican cuisine. We have Enrico Vera with
Fujo and with Quinni. Like if you look at their
(27:46):
Michelin Star, you know, fine dining experience, it's so elevated.
It's definitely reminiscent of French times, but it's indigenous ingredients.
Speaker 2 (27:58):
Escofia turned chefs into discipline professionals with the kitchen brigade
right organized, respected central. You know, it's it's He's the
one that paved the way to the celebrity chef. He
was sort of the one, and now we have, you know,
from Top Chef to Rossendres to Boordain. This sort of
food media landscape has exploded, right and the concept of
(28:21):
the restaurant has completely changed as well. We have people
like Hilberto Setina Holbosch who has a Michelin Star. He's
in a tiny little market in Los Angeles. And then
we have these backyard restaurants as well. Godo Tentita is
one of them, not far from where I live, and
it's just amazing Wahakan food in somebody's backyard. Thank you
(28:46):
so much for tuning in, and thank you again to
Chefrico Threes. When you're ready for a culinary pilgrimage, but
Mishlei in San Antonio on your list.
Speaker 1 (28:55):
We are continuing our conversation next week with our Food
Critics episode. I can't wait for y'all to hear that one.
Speaker 2 (29:02):
Where there's food, there's criticism. So let's see you next week.
Speaker 1 (29:08):
Hungary for History is a hyphen Media production in partnership
with Iheart's Michaultura podcast network.
Speaker 2 (29:14):
For more of your favorite shows, visit the iHeartRadio app,
Apple Podcasts, or wherever you get your podcasts.
Hosts And Creators
MAITE GOMEZ-REJÓN
Eva Longoria
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