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August 24, 2023 29 mins

 

From street performers to Dave Grohl and Smashing Pumpkins, there is a reason why Warren Haynes’ home town is a hub for the artist and performer and why it makes this town what it is.

Head Writer: Patrick Coman

www.willdailey.com

REFERENCES

https://moogseum.org/moogseum-in-asheville-faq https://www.rollingstone.com/music/music-country/dave-grohl-all-apologies-nirvana-warren- haynes-766829/
https://www.exploreasheville.com/iconic-asheville/music/

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Episode Transcript

Available transcripts are automatically generated. Complete accuracy is not guaranteed.
Speaker 1 (00:05):
By the time Dave Grohl drained the last bottle, it
was almost four am on a frigid December morning in
west North Carolina. Grohl had just wrapped up a performance
at North Carolina native Warren Haynes's two thousand and eight
Christmas jam. In post show, he was eager to swap
stories with Southern Rock royalty, like Haynes in Leonards Skinner

(00:27):
drummer Artemis Pyle. Now with a bottle empty in the
conversation at a lull, he walked up to a handful
of strangers still standing on the loading dock. That's when
he first noticed the snow. It must have started sometime
in the night, and by now it was falling in
thick clumps. The group watched quietly until someone broke the silence.

(00:47):
No way in hell we're getting out of here today,
Dave Grohl shook his head in agreement. The snow looked
nearly a foot deep. Already, those switchback mountain roads were dicey.
In good conditions, report was sure to cancel all flights.
We should find some place to play, he said, almost

(01:08):
to himself, as he put the empty bottle down on
the loading dock. Nods of affirmation spread among the gathering
musicians they should find some place to play. One of
the locals in the group knew the perfect spot. If
they were going to do this thing, there was the
perfect room in town where it had to take place.

(01:29):
We're supping on tears, and we're supping on wine. We
all get to heaven on our own sweet time. So
come on, all you ask for little boys, and turn
up your old time noahs and kick till the dust
comes up from the cracks in the floor. Gillian Welch
Hard times busking the ancient art of street performing. Not

(01:56):
quite a caln not quite a concert either. Musicians know
it's a test more formidable than playing to a packed house,
no stage, no crowd or adoring fans. You might even
have angry business owners. It's just about standing on a
street corner and bearing your soul to strangers, to risk
your voice, your dignity, a sunburn, even your physical safety,

(02:19):
all for the chance at a momentary connection, and perhaps
to separate regular folks from a few of their hard
earned dollars. By twenty fourteen or so, word had spread
among musicians the Ashville, North Carolina, was the new busking
capital of America. Soon, during the busy season, crowds were

(02:41):
spilling out of the street ways to brass bands or
kicking up their heels to rock as folk punkers playing
in the park, and so local businesses and downtown residents
started complaining about the noise, the trash, the crowds of
people blocking traffic. The city came close to banning busking entirely. Instead,

(03:02):
they worked with the musicians to form the Ashville Buskers
Collective in a set of formal guidelines that relied on
the musicians to police themselves. No permits, no paperwork, a
rare wind for independent musicians. But then again, Asheville has
bet on musicians before and it had paid off in
a big way. Hard to believe this hip, artsy town,

(03:25):
tucked away in a spectacular stretch of the Blue Ridge
Mountains came close to being demolished. Instead, Ashville city leaders
went another way. The choices we make have consequences. When
we choose to support independent music, great things can happen.
Ashville reminds us of what we win by betting on
local businesses, local music, and local art to be the

(03:48):
kind of town that can possibly host an epic evening
of music with Roll and Friends last minute, which we'll
get to, but it also reminds us of what we
can lose if we don't keep nurturing those local liks
that give a town it's sound. Sound of Our Town

(04:13):
is a podcast about the music that shaped the city
you are touching down in. It is also about being
present to hear and experience its best music happening right
now in what sounds and places have shaped the city's culture.
It is about the abiding ritual of getting together in
a room to listen, and why that matters. This is
the anti content podcast because it's encouraging you to ignore

(04:34):
all the other content and get out there and participate
in the sounds being created around you. In this second season,
I'll be introducing you to the real places and sonic
stories echoing in a particular town, so that your travel
is enriched with music, so that the wildness of our
world is forced to contend with beats, harmony, and song.

(04:56):
I'm your host, Will Day. I'm an independent DIY songwriter,
touring artist. I've been doing this a little while, and frankly,
this show is also a reminder to myself how important
live music is in our existence. The business of music
can kick you around with the crowd never lets you
down when you come with the truth. So in episode four,
we are seeking some truth in Asheville, North Carolina. Pulling

(05:28):
into downtown Asheville today, with its endless numbers of bars, breweries,
independent restaurants, and shops, it seems impossible that less than
thirty years ago this space was nearly abandoned and teetering
on the verge of demolition. Now many people know Ashville's
history is a mountain getaway for the rich and famous
at the turn of the nineteen hundreds, thanks to the

(05:48):
two hundred and fifty room builtmore estate commissioned by a
railroad magnate, George Washington varnderbuilt the second What is less
known is that the Great Depression hit Ashville hard. Literally
every bank in town folded in the city, once the
third largest in Carolina, began a fifty year slide in population.

(06:10):
By the mid eighties, downtown Asheville was nearly abandoned outside
of a few hardcore holdouts of artists, musicians, weirdo entrepreneurs
who were locally referred to as the Asheville one thousand,
rumored to be the downtown population at the time, Now,
this is a story we are used to and sound
of our town. We've heard it so many times. Before

(06:30):
buildings were boarded up and they were decaying. City leaders
were considering a plan to demolish eleven blocks of prime
downtown real estate to make way for a drum roll
a shopping mall. The Asheville one thousand mobilized. They rallied
public support for an alternative vision for a downtown economy
built on tours, one that called for investment and just

(06:53):
the type of local businesses being pushed out by chain malls.
One that encouraged investment in the arts, that made it
easy for musicians to perform in public. In fact, it
welcomed them to help generate energy and atmosphere downtown, especially
in those early years. A pair of local wealthy investors,
Roger McGuire and Julian Price, joined their cause and created

(07:16):
seed money to rehabilitate historic buildings and create some iconic
Ashville businesses, including a venue will visit in this episode,
plus fun museums, performance spaces, and more. Asheville came broughing
back with music playing a huge role in the local economy.
Musicians flocked to the area to set up shop, reinforce

(07:38):
in the laid back, funky charm of the mountain town
that suddenly found itself a many travelers hot list by
the two thousands. Who are some of these musicians that
flocked to Asheville, who were born into it or who
call it home today. Well we got Born Haynes, Steep
Canyon Rangers, Luke Combe on Sticky Tree, angel Ol River Wild,

(08:05):
Jared Ashley, he Andrew Scotch on the River, Amanda and
Platte and the Honeycoff Santiago Gina and her Phony, Alexi
Rose and Seth Walker. So let's get our first stop
in Ashville. You just pulled into town and you're eager
to explore, But first you need to grab your bearings
and maybe a cold drink. You know how we do it.

(08:28):
Somewhere you can get your head on straight and absorb
some of that funky, laid back atmosphere that gives this
mountain town so much of its identity. If you're downtown,
head straight to Static Age Records on Lexington Avenue and
you'll find everything you need to kick off your trip.
Grab a late afternoon libation at the bar, and rub
elbows with Indie musicians like Angel Olsen, who have been

(08:50):
known to flip through the crates of used vinyl and
tapes when not on tour. I can't help myself on
the road, even though picking up a vinyl or two
means I have to get them home safely. But a
great record from a local shop as the best reminder
of a trip other than I closed out Wachowski sticker,
of course, So if your afternoon stop stretches on into

(09:11):
the night, you might discover that, like any indie record
store with that's one hundred and eighty grand vinyl, static
Age Records doubles as a live music venue. Small crowds
squeeze in shoulder to shoulder on black and white checkered floor,
or onto couches and chairs that line the walls to
catch underground bands playing everything from post punk to techno

(09:31):
from the small stages of the back room. Static Age
Records will set the tone for the rest of the trip.
You quite possibly fill your suitcase with way too many
records to carry home. Not bad for a first stop,
so you've had a minute to collect your thoughts. You

(09:52):
flipped through some stacks of wax and made way too
many purchases You've got tickets to see a band later tonight,
but that's still a few hours away. And you, my friend,
are ready to catch some live music now. Well, if
the weather is good, you should be in luck. Just
follow your ears and they will lead you towards some
of Ashville's famed street musicians. It'd be weird if I

(10:14):
had that whole opening and didn't tell you to go
check them out. Although the busking scene took a major
hit during COVID, performers have weathered the storm and continued
to head out to landmark spots like the city's iconic
Flat Iron Sculpture or Woolworth's Walk on Wayward Street to
entertain the masses. Your mileage may vary, but it's possible

(10:36):
to catch everything from New Orleans style brass bands to
bluegrassers like Old Crow Medicine Show, who made their bones
busking in Ashville before making it big. Scope it out
and you're sure to find some favorites among them. Many
performers bringing their blood, they sweat, and their tears to
street level performances throughout the city. And when you do

(10:57):
find a favorite sound of our town, advocates for the following.
When it comes to listening. The first song is free.
If you stay longer than that, you've got to drop
something green in the hat. Charming, unpretentious and totally cool.

(11:17):
It's the perfect embodiment of what we're after here in Ashville.
And to think you can find it all under one roof.
Of course, I know you're not gonna stop just one spot,
but if you had to, the best listening room in
Asheville is there for you. The Gray Eagle originally opened
in nearby Black Mountain, North Carolina, in nineteen ninety four,

(11:39):
and it's been holding down its current location, Ashville's River
Arts District since nineteen ninety nine. The venue began life
primarily as a folk and roots music venue, and over
the years it has gained a reputation as a go
to spot for spellbinding solo performances that could leave an
audience in reverend silence. Nowadays, the five hundred and fifty

(12:00):
person venue books artists from all over The musical map
from punk to funk is seen by recent shows from
Grunge Icon's Mud Honey Roots, Dual Waterhouse and rising funk
soul act Tank in the Bangas, But even at the
rowdiest rock show, the Great Eagle maintains some of that
respectful listening room ethos where everything else is secondary to
the performance on stage, making it a favorite of performers

(12:23):
and music fans alike. The venue is housed in a
low slung building with a huge mural dominating the outer walls. Inside.
Those low ceilings make the room feel even more intimate
than its already small size, and it gives the venue
a cozy living room vibe. During COVID, the Great Eagle
played an important role in keeping live music going with

(12:44):
a series of outdoor shows on their patio. It is
the definition of a listening room when they are listening
to the community's needs and responding with music, and they
continue to sprinkle these outdoor performances into their programming schedule.
And on top of all that. Attached to the building
is the Gray Eagle Takaia with a great selection of

(13:04):
craft beers and Latin American cuisine, thereby making it easy
to spend a whole soaring night in the talons of
the Gray Eagle. Salvage Station may not have the same

(13:32):
history as some other venues in Asheville. The indoor outdoor
music venue, restaurant and sprawling seven acre outdoor space only
opened its gates in twenty sixteen, but it has quickly
developed a reputation as one of the most unique concert
experiences in the country. Located a half mile up the
French Broad River from downtown Asheville, Salvage Station pays homage

(13:56):
to its former life as a salvage yard right from
the start, with a pair of repurposed semi trailers that
act as the venue's front gates. Inside, old gravel crushers
are reborn as fire pits, and countertops at the bar
are made from crushed car doors. In addition to gorgeous
views of the river, there is an outdoor amphitheater that

(14:18):
hosts up to twenty five hundred music fans a night,
as well as a smaller indoor concert space that runs
all year round. Plus there is an on site restaurant
called root Down Kitchen that serves updated takes on classic
Southern and New Orleans fair Both the indoor and outdoor
performance spaces have incredible sound in sight lines, probably why

(14:40):
is routinely voted the best live music venue in West Carolina.
So any chance to see Billy Strings, Cover, Alison Chains,
or the Monkeys at Salvage Station should not be missed
or Sleeter Keinney Full Volume playing songs from the Woods,
one of the greatest most underrated rock of an all
records of all time. Government Mules two set hometown show

(15:02):
these artists many more on a warm summer night for
an outdoor show is Southern Hospitality Vias some of the
most authentic and funky makers of music we have right now.
While Salvat's Station may be the new kid on the block,
it has more than proved it can attract top tier
talent while maintained the independent spirit and that unique vibe

(15:24):
that are the calling cards of Ashville's music scene. In
the heart of downtown Ashville meets the mother Church of
Carolina music at the corner of Biltmore and Hillard Avenue.
Sits a red brick building with a roofline that builds

(15:46):
fittingly to a steeple. A towering neon sign hangs from
the building's facade. In its glow calls music lovers to
the Orange Peel like moths to the flame, and if
you are Inshville for even one night, you'll want to
be among them. In its current form, the Orange Peel

(16:06):
opened in two thousand and two and Within a few years,
Rolling Stone was hailing it as one of the top
five music clubs in America. The club cemented its national
reputation when The Smashing Pumpkins chose to kick off of
two thousand and eight reunion with a residency not in
New York or LA, but in Ashville for nine dates
at the Peer. Since then, everyone from three to eleven

(16:28):
to Bob Dylan has graced the stage, and today the
club hosts a staggering array of music and comedy shows
in a perfectly sized room that's big enough to attract
top talent but small enough to make the crowd feel
like part of the act. Basically the ideal room. That's
a worthy legacy in itself, But as you cross the

(16:48):
threshold under the Neon sign into the building's front lobby,
you'll get your first clue that the venue's history is
much deeper than you could imagine. Around the lobby are
a collection of newspaper clippings and other artifacts that reveal
the musical roots of this building, going back the nineteen sixties.
The building's history is a winding story full of ups

(17:10):
and downs, paired with an incredible soundtrack. Maybe on the
right night, with the right mix of sounds and substances.
Or if you just know how to listen, these walls
might just tell you their story. It might start with
a whisper. Percy Sledge stood right there before he went
out and almost blew the roof off this place back
in nineteen sixty eight. If that first whisper doesn't scare

(17:33):
you off, then maybe the walls will keep talking. They'll
tell you how this building opened back in nineteen fifty.
It wasn't a music club at first. Instead, it was
the Skateland Roller Doime, Asheville's hot spot for junior high
birthday parties. Those early years lasted until nineteen sixty two.
By then, those junior high kids had grown up and

(17:54):
wanted something a little more thrilling than a lap around
a rink. By nineteen sixty five, the rink was out
and the dance floor was in under a new name,
the Jade Club, hosting artists like Percy Sledge, Rodney Millsap,
and the Dixie Cups. The Jade Club gave way to
the Eneral Club, which gave way to a variety of
Gemstone them names until the nineteen seventies, and the original

(18:16):
Orange Peel rolled the space for nearly a decade. Ask
the walls and they might tell you how bands like
the Commodore's got everyone in this brickhouse to let it
all hang out on a sultry summer night. They'll tell
you how DJ's from local w b MU, one of
the few black owned stations in the country, kept the
party going by spinning funk, soul, and disco records in

(18:38):
between the bands. How this hotspot kept the party going
even as the pulse of downtown Ashville was fading. How
the Barcas played a twenty two minute version of soul
Finger that made it seem like the party would never end.
The music that drinks the crowds, they kept it flowing
until one day it all just stopped. The lights went

(18:59):
out of the Orange for the last time in nineteen
seventy seven. For nearly twenty years, the building sat silent,
barely remembered, slated for demolition numerous times. It seems gone
for good by the late nineteen nineties, until the Ashville
one thousand began circulating their alternative vision for the city.
Local investor Julian Price heard the plea and provided seed

(19:22):
money for the venue to reopen under its previous name. Today,
these Walls stand tall as one of the country's best
live independent music venues. If you get the chance to
join one thousand odd souls at the Orange Peel to
commune with the musical gods, you will hear stories of
these walls reverberating in every note, including the one with

(19:42):
which this episode started regarding Dave Golan Warnhayes, which I
will get to. But if it's stories and legendary knights,
then while you're there, just check out the basement speakeasy
pulp for a pre or post show drink, and maybe,
just maybe here a few more than these walls can tell.

(20:13):
In every episode we look for the hidden gem, but
it feels like Ashville itself is a hidden gem in America.
West Ashville might be a little bit off the beaten
track for most travelers, but it's definitely the right area
to explore if you're looking for a hidden gem within
a hidden gem. Among the best of them is Fleetwood's

(20:33):
Rock and Roll Wedding Chapel. The sign painted on the
front window says it all shop, Drink, get married, which
is pretty much life in a nutshell in America. And
you heard it right. This funky little cinder block storefront
has an honest to goodness wedding chapel inside to take
care of all your quickie wedding needs. Inside is packed

(20:55):
to the gills with neon lights, vintage kitch and red velvet,
with a fun selection of vintage clothes and goods for sale,
plus a bar serving beer and wine, and in warm weather,
a nice outdoor patio on the back. So if you
fall in love with a busker, then you want to
tie the knot you got Fleetwoods when hipster couples, daredevils

(21:16):
and those who have had a few too many aren't
tying the knot. The chapel also doubles as a live
music venue for hosting some of Ashville's best rock and
roll dance most Friday and Saturday nights. While the bands
may not have the pedigree as the headliners at some
of the bigger venues in the city, it's hard to
beat the energy they bring to this uniquely Ashville spot
and the memories. The memories they are responsible for with

(21:41):
these newly whites as the volume turns up to drown
out any second guessing the brides may be having. If
you're looking for a concert to play in your chip around.

(22:01):
In addition to the venues we've already talked about, the
horras Cherokee Center and adjoining Thomas Wolf Auditorium hosts a
few dozen travel worthy concerts a year. The programming team
behind the Orange Peel also opened an outdoor concerts based
in twenty twenty two called Rabbit Rabbit. Most of the
room for four thousand concert goers, food trucks, and a
newly built permanent stage, Rabbit Rabbit is pulling major artists

(22:23):
like Modest Mouse, Sylvie and so Fleet Foxes and more
throughout town. Check out their website for concert dates that
run from April through October, and no doubt you'll find
a few that are worth putting in your calendar. But
for an all you can eat sampler of homegrown Ashville music,
mark your calendars for early August twenty twenty four because
they just hosted the first inaugural avl Fest. From the

(22:45):
ashes of several beloved former local music festivals, comes this
new event that will feature local stars like Talbon, Krewey, River, Wireless,
Tall Tall Trees, and more at twenty plus local venues,
including virtually every club we've mentioned in this episode. And
fans of the electric guitar can plan on a holiday
trip once again around Native hero Warren Haynes's annual Christmas Jam.

(23:08):
The former Allman Brothers guitarist and Government Meal founders concert
and fundraiser has been running strong since nineteen eighty eight,
with all star guests in the past years like Phil Lesh,
Trey Anastasio, and Grohl. I'll get there joining Haynes for
a one of a kind concert, plus numerous other pop
ups and special events throughout town leading up to the finale.

(23:28):
In like role, you might just get stuck there and
see something extra special. Okay. Usually to prep for a trip,
I'm recommending a book, movie album, even another podcast. But

(23:52):
the best way to prep for your trip and to
listen to the past might just mean having your first
stop at Static Age Records and then you head over
to the mog Xium, a landing pad of wonder for
the science and music lover, or to the music lover
of science or people who like sound. If you don't

(24:13):
know what a mog is, let me help you prep
for the prep for your trip. The Mogue is a
modular synthesizer invented by American engineer Robert mog in nineteen
sixty four. Basically, it's a sound shaper. I don't know
how everything works. I think sometime in the museum would help.
That help both of us. But here's the thing. You

(24:36):
have heard one as long as you've listened to the Stones,
the Beatles, Yes, Emerson, Lake and Palmer, and any music
that has made music since then up to the Beastie
Boys in Wilco. Robert mog called Ashville home, and Ashville
honored him with the museum. And this museum brings his
pioneering legacy to life with multisensory, interactive exhibits in an

(24:57):
immersive dome to experience how tricity becomes sound, as well
as the history of synthesizers and the chance to mess
around with soundscaping and lose yourself in hours of tones.

(25:19):
Because of the success of Asheville's revitalization project, there have
been a ton of people moving to Ashville, so real
estate prices have gone up. Development has been going through
the roof once again. Business owners and downtown residents are
starting to complain about the noise of buskers and the
crowds and the trash. It's the old let's remove the
things that make this place what it is and continue

(25:39):
to make it interesting. Because I can't hear myself. Watch Netflix.
It's been going on since the beginning of time. Will
Ashville allow the musicians and artists who help make this
town the vibrant destination that it is today be pushed aside?
Will they be victim to their own success or will
the city continue to nurture what it has made great?
The answer is not beyond our control. We have a

(26:02):
role to play in all this. If you can see me,
I'm gesturing wildly at the mic right now around the
room to everything in my vicinity and beyond. Because every
time we go out to a small club to see
a new band, every time we visit an independent record store,
or choose to part with one of our hard earned
dollars for a street corner performer sharing their soul to strangers.

(26:24):
Every time we put our ear to the ground and
listen deeply to the sound of a town, we are
saying yes to each other. And now, more than ever,
we are instilling a connection that so easily atrophies when
we don't have thriving live music. And one more thing

(26:48):
that Warren Haynes Christmas Jam the snowstorm. I'm sorry, I've
made you wait. It just seemed to fitting waight apart,
so twelve hours after that first concert ended, while Ashvillians
scrambled to dig out of the snowstorm, the Orange Peel
announced a last minute concert featuring Dave Grohl, Warren Hayes,
and a handful of other musicians still stranded in Ashville.

(27:10):
It sold out in a matter of minutes. Hundreds more
gathered outside, hoping for a miracle, even in the freezing cold.
The line outside wrapped around the block all night. Inside,
the music kept everyone hot. Haines and GROLs swapped Beetles
and Zeppelin covers. Artemis Pyle even joined the band for
a cover of Skinnered simple Man. Midway through the set,

(27:32):
with the final notes of Tom Petty's you Don't Know
How It Feels still ringing out, Haines began picking out
the opening rift to Nirvana's classic All Apologies, a song
Girl had n't played since the death of Kurt Kobaine.
Girl shook his head no for a moment, but as
he looked out to the crowd, already roaring in anticipation,
he took a deep breath, shouted a count off, and

(27:55):
the band launched into the song. As they reached the
final refrain, Girl could only look through the tears in
his eyes as the crowds stomp their feet on the
hardwood floors and sing along with all their might. All
in all is all, we are all right. That's our

(28:20):
time in Asheville, North Carolina. DM me. If you have
any questions or further suggestions, let me know how we're doing.
I can keep this show going forever. When you follow
review word of mouth, just stop me on the street.
If you want me to cover your town, just hit
me up on Instagram at Will Daily Official, or search

(28:41):
Will Daily anywhere. D A I L E Y on
your favorite platform. I'm on Threads too, if that's a
thing now, myna. The Sound of Our Town is a
production of Double Elvis and iHeartRadio. You can also hit
us up on ig at Double Elvis and Twitter at
Double Elvis FM. Executively produced by Jake Brennan and Brady

(29:02):
Sadler for Double Elvis. The production assistants by Matt Bowden.
The show was created, written, hosted, and scored by me
Will Daily. This episode's head writer is Patrick Coman. The
music for this episode was composed and performed by me.
You can check out more on Spotify, Apple, Bandcamp, or
will daily dot com. All right, next stop? Where is

(29:23):
it Gonna Be? Where is it Gonna Be? Follow wherever
you listen to podcasts for episode five coming in two
weeks
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