Indianapolis, Indiana: Wide Awake in Naptown

Will Dailey takes you on a musical tour of Indianapolis, Indiana. Go beyond the Brickyard to experience everything Indy has to offer, from death metal yoga to the best root beer on the planet.

 

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Episode Transcript

Speaker 1 (00:04):
Double Elvis. Does Indianapolis have more mean nicknames than any
other American city? End of no Place, indian no Place,
and of course Naptown. All these seemingly derogatory designations of

(00:25):
OCAs city characterized by sleepiness, a lack of culture, an
absence of vitality, none of which rings true, especially if
you spend any time in India the nickname most locals
prefer lately. Are these monikers as mean as they seem? Though?
Take Naptown, which simply pulls out the fourth symbol in

(00:46):
Indianapolis for emphasis. It sounds almost musical nap Town. In fact,
it was coined and popularized by jazz and blues musicians
of the nineteen twenties, most likely as a term of endearment.
In Its earliest known usage is recorded in song Naptown
Blues by influential blues pianist Leroy Carr. Indianapolis in the

(01:08):
twenties had a major and thriving blues scene. The city
was a key railroad hub and a favored destination for
many African Americans who fled the South for northern cities
in the Great Migration. Listen to Carr's song it doesn't
make it sound like a sleepy town, not at all.
Nobody knows Old Naptown baby like I do. If you

(01:30):
will stop and listen, I will tell you a thing
or two. When you get lonesome and you want to
have some fun, you just grab a train and try
Old napdown some When you get to Naptown, the blues
won't last very long because they have their pleasure and
they sure do carry on. I would rather be in
Naptown than any place I know. I can get my

(01:52):
ticket and stop by the Walter Show. I'm going back
to Naptown, Baby. Don't you want to go, because there
ain't Nobody knows Old Naptown like I know. At first approach,
it looks like it would be easy to know every
corner of Old Naptown well. Indianapolis has a tiny urban skyline,

(02:17):
but it occupies a huge amount of land three hundred
and sixty eight square miles spread across the middle of Indiana.
It is significantly more massive than Chicago. With only eight
hundred thousand residents, it represents a small fraction of the
windy city's population density. They're around two four hundred people
per square mile in Indy, compared to over twelve thousand

(02:37):
per square mile in Chicago. What I'm trying to say
is there is space in this place, and tons of it.
There's a room for big stuff, like the Gamebridge Field House,
home to the Pacers in Lucas Oil Stadium, which hosts
the Colts for home games and also hosts NCAA tournaments,
major conventions, and mega concerts think guns n' Roses. The

(02:58):
gorgeous Hinkle Field House on the Butler University campus, a
National Historic Landmark and home to Butler's men and women's
basketball and volleyball teams, and the site of the championship
game in the nineteen eighty six film Hoosiers, And I
don't need to tell you that people who live in
Indiana are called Hoosiers, right, I don't need to do that.
Where we should be clear on that. Some people call

(03:19):
the Hinkle Fieldhouse Indiana's Basketball Cathedral, which seems appropriate because
basketball is basically a religion here. And let's not forget
the Indianapolis Motor Speedway, home to the Indianapolis five hundred.
There's space for more than just sports, though the Children's
Museum of Indianapolis is the world's largest children's museum. The
Indianapolis Museum of Art sits on a sprawling one hundred

(03:41):
and fifty two acres of gardens, wetlands and nature trails
in the White River State Park stretches across two hundred
and fifty acres. In downtown Indy, there's a big ass
state park down town. Downtown, you will also find the
State Capitol building, many of the above name athletic venues,
and a thriving restaurant and bar scene. Downtown Indy has

(04:02):
been significantly perkier since the city hosted the Super Bowl
in twenty twelve. That influx of cash and status still
shines Beyond downtown. Indianapolis poasts a long list of neighborhoods
worth exploring, including the very nearby mass app which is
lined with bars and shops and public art. And there's
the current hipster capital of Indy, Fountain Square, just south

(04:25):
of downtown, an area distinguished by restored older buildings in
millennial small businesses. You'll be hearing a lot more from
Fountain Square in this episode. You'll find cultural districts north
of downtown too, including Broad Ripple, a self contained village
in itself with sweet mid century houses and plenty of
places to eat, drink, and here music. Okay, But the

(04:46):
thing about Indy is there's all this expanse of space,
yet the place feels like a small town in the
best ways, easy to grasp and navigate, exceedingly friendly, rents
are low in quality of life is high. It's an
approachable city full of approachable people. Or it's easy to

(05:06):
feel connected, easy to get around, easy to park compared
to most cities, and where culture feels accessible and malleable.
If you want to try something, here's a city that
has well. The space in this spaciousness has fed a
thriving music singer. Think you can't name an indie band

(05:27):
or artist. Think again. The Vulgar Boatman, Zero Toxic Reasons,
Margo and the Nuclear so and So, Babyface, Floppy Second,
Buddy Montgomery, David John Hye, Lily and Madeline, The Four Freshman,
Ink Spots, The Pieces, West Montgomery, Freddy Hubbard, Blind Mellon, J. J. Johnson,

(05:48):
Jimmy Coe, Leroy Carr, and Oreo Jones. There is no
need to fret about banging your head against an impenetrable
wall of capital c culture in Indianapolis. This city can
accommodate experiments it's the perfect place to test drive your

(06:08):
crazy ideas. That's what Greg Brenner did back in two
thousand when he convinced the proprietor of the Melody Inn,
a circa nineteen thirty five dive bar with old school
vinyl boots an original oak bar, to let him schedule
a Saturday night showcase for punk bands. Greg was frustrated
that the national punk bands he loved were driving through

(06:28):
or around Indy on their tours, and he dreamed of
making a place for them to stop, find a welcoming audience,
and build a following. The proprietor said yes to one
Saturday twenty three years later. Punk Rock Night is a
local institution in the longest running weekly punk showcase on
the planet. We have Punk Rock Night Babies now, says Greg.

(06:50):
PRN is also a not for profit organization that provided
financial support to the Melody Inn during COVID, when a
touring band's base amp was stolen. PRN came through with
a here's a trend. You'll notice there's an assumption wrapped
into every major music endeavor in this city that art
is inextricably tied to civic responsibility. In philanthropy, Indianapolis rapper

(07:14):
songwriter mc in local hero Oreo Jones exemplifies this weaving
of art, philanthropy and ambitious entrepreneurship. He runs a community
radio station performs in Indianapolis rap trio Bless, which has
actually written eight, one, three, five, five, you know the
fives or s's at the end of the eight is
a b and He created a one day hip hop

(07:35):
festival in twenty fifteen called Trees That's Cheers plus piece.
Trees was on hiatus during the pandemic and made a
highly anticipated return in the summer of twenty twenty three.
Thousands of young hip hop fans who previously had no
platform and no voice overtook Fountain Square, which, as stated,
is one of the city's biggest cultural districts. For a

(07:57):
city of this size, the number of small to midside
venues in Indy is astonishing, and people keep opening new ones,
many of them humming and thriving. Take High Five, another
fixture and Fountain Square neighborhood. High five was opened by
Josh Baker in twenty twelve and quickly rose to become
one of INDI's top venues, hosting big name local acts
in touring bands from Martin Sexton to the Mississippi All

(08:19):
Stars to Juliana Hatfield. When March twenty twenty came crashing
down and every venue in the world became endangered, Josh
quickly took action, formed a coalition of venues and successfully
kept himself in other places afloat through city grants until
federal money came along. Later that year. He erected an
outdoor bar and stage made out of shipping containers and

(08:39):
dubbed it the Hi Fi Annex, and they managed to
stay afloat. He's beyond a float now. Last summer, the
booking company that Josh co founded launched wonder Road, a
major music festival in Garfield Park, one of the city's
most beautiful and beloved outdoor spots. Indie residents have wondered
if their small town, big city would ever be home
to a high profile music festival. It looks like the

(09:01):
answer is yes. This year, Weezer and Jason Isabel headlined
this is a yes kind of city where good ideas
and good intentions have the potential to rewrite the scene.
It's a great place to start a business, says pretty
much everyone who has ever started a business here, and
as a result, there's a lot in India that is new.

(09:23):
Should we nickname it India New Place. Ah, that's a
horrible dad joke. But let's see what we can find.
But I got to introduce myself first, right, I got
to say what this is and where we are and
where we're going and why. So this is Sound of

(09:45):
Our Town. This is episode three of season two. I'm
Will Daily. I'm an artist, touring musician. Apparently I have
a podcast about live music that you are listening to
right now, because now more than ever, if robots are
taking over in the mass media of which we all
participate in, is so noisy, we might have to lean

(10:09):
on just a little bit more that tried in true
practice of being in a room together and listening to
all these sound waves emanating off of the stage. And
that's why Sound of Our Town is here, and that's
why you're here, and that's why I can't do it
without you, and that's why I'm grateful for your ears,

(10:30):
and that is why we are going to Indianapolis, Indiana. Okay,
new town. But wait a second, Let's start in the beginning,
because there's a lot of India that's old too, including
some of the very best places. Take, for example, the

(10:51):
Red Key Tavern, established in nineteen thirty three, and they
haven't changed the forty fives and then jukebox much since then.
Rock and roll never happened to jroupbox. That's how old
it is. But you wouldn't miss it in here. The
iconic sign outside the Red Key welcomes customers with the
Neon Martini glass in the blinking musical notation to the

(11:12):
first four notes of how Dry I Am? Inside. The
place is careworn low key, a comfortable neighborhood bar. This
should be your first stop in India. Here is where
you will get a feel for the vibe of the city.
It is a central location in Dan Wakefield's nineteen seventy
novel Going all the Way, and Kurt Vonnegut, Indianapolis's favorite son,

(11:35):
is reputed to have been a regular here. It's a
place where mayors and governors still hang out. A long
time bartender says that half of the business in the
city is done at the Red Key. Maybe it's because
you can hear yourself think it's a bar where you
can comfortably carry on a conversation. Or maybe it's because
of the potato salad, which you should definitely order. If

(11:56):
they have it, they always run out, it's that good.
The burg A routinely voted the best in Indianapolis too.
A friend of mine calls them mom Burgers. There's nothing
on tap, they don't take credit cards, and they don't
like swearing. Bring cash and watch the potty mouth and
let yourself be charmed by a city where it can
be easy to just be. Not everything has to be hard.

(12:19):
Enjoy your potato salad and quietly tap your toes to
a Glenn Miller forty five. You get your sustenance and
your perspective for Naptown if you start here and you
wash that mom Burger down with an old man cocktail.
Welcome to Indianapolis. Now, let's stick with the old just

(12:43):
a little bit longer. The Marauth Theater, near downtown, in
the bustling mass Ab neighborhood is these days the People's
Listening Room, a two thousand seat concert hall that sounds
fantastic no matter where you sit, and that hosts an
incredibly eclectic roster of theater and music. Upcoming shows include
Bonnie rait Fleet Foxes in the touring production of Hamilton,

(13:06):
but it has a more exclusive and esoteric background, housed
in a spectacular Masonic temple that opened in nineteen ten
and that is still owned by the Marat Shiners, the
ancient Arabic order of the Nobles of the Mystic Shrine.
Mystic that I was able to say all that, actually,
but it's the Marat that pops out. An architectural jewel
designed to resemble a Moorish mosque with towers, minarets, and

(13:30):
terra cotta trim. It's named after one of Napoleon's generals
in his Egyptian campaign. Inappropriately, the theatre's smaller venue, the
adjoining Egyptian Room, features hieroglyphics and Egyptian murals. In the
Egyptian Room, you'll find more alternative acts like the Descendants
in Big Thief, as well as touring comedians like Sam
Moral and Tim Heidecker. The temple was originally used to

(13:53):
house Masonic meetings and rituals, but it is also a
public space in its earliest days, hosting theatrical production in
Illustrious Visiting dignitaries. Winston Churchill gave a speech here in
nineteen thirty two. I imagine that room sounded as good,
filled with Churchill's eloquence as it does, filled with music today.
The drinks are overpriced, the food is terrible and overpriced.

(14:17):
This is not a place for eating and drinking and
talking to your friends. You go to be still and
you go to listen. You can find something good to
eat or drink later. This is the site of sonic reverence,
with traces of spiritual reverence still very much intact. It's

(14:40):
a two minute walk from the splendor of the Marah
to the sacred diviness of the Chatterbox Jazz Club, a
nine hundred square foot bar strung with Christmas lights, black
and white checkered Indy five hundred flags and banners celebrating
the New Years, still hanging in early summer. Ask the
bartender for a sharpie and she'll hand it right to
you so you can sign your name on the bar,

(15:03):
on the wall, in the bathroom, on the door, or
on the weird fridge sitting in the back of the room.
Everybody does it. Mick Jagger did it one night in
nineteen eighty nine when he stopped by with Ron Wood.
The Chatterbox features live local jazz every night of the
week and has been a crucial indie hotspot since the
mid nineteen eighties. In this warm and cozy room, you

(15:23):
can hear a revolving lineup of older, established local jazz musicians,
supported by a steady stream of talented newcomers, thanks in
part to the proximity of Butler University and Indiana University,
both with the renowned music schools and strong jazz programs.
Remember Wally's in the Boston episode. The Chatterbox doesn't book

(15:44):
bands in the typical way. They ask you to come by,
sit in, get acquainted with the owner and manager and
regular musicians. It's a place where you never know who
might show up and sit in. Musicians frequent this place,
and if you let on that you play an instrument,
you should expect to be called up to join the
band for a tune or two. Historically, the Chatterbox was

(16:04):
no cover on the weeknights. But here's the thing. They
almost didn't survive the pandemic. In order to stay in business,
they took on some debt and the owner implemented a
four dollars cover charge on weeknights to help towards recovery.
If you're a musician, the cover is only two bucks,
but believe me, it's worth it. The loss of this

(16:25):
place would have been devastating to the city's music scene.
And you can't leave the house now without spending fifty
dollars four bucks four get over. Thank your lucky stars.
Faces are melting all across India every night lately. There

(16:45):
seems to be a lot of heavy bands in the city. Hardcore, grindcore, metalcore.
People want to rock out in this city. One venue
that youthful souls recommend for a face and brain melting
experience is Healer, which calls itself an immersive DIY art
and music venue designed to be an incubator for creating
and engaging with art of all kinds. Healer has a

(17:08):
scrappy punk ethos. It is housed in a refurbished strip
of industrial buildings, nestled next to a trucking academy, in
the least artsy looking place you can imagine, But inside
it's a different world, a colorful wonderland of revolving art
installations be decked with toys, trinkets, black light, fluorescent pain,

(17:29):
colored bulbs, whale themed art, a fake dragon not to
insult all the real dragons out there, and featuring a
nineties themed video arcade. No genres are excluded. Here, you'll
hear garage bands, punk bands, metal, low fi, ambient. It's
an all ages venue with a bar for the over
twenty ones, known for exceptionally friendly staff in five star

(17:53):
mosh pits. We now seem to have stumbled into the
heart of eccentric indie. Let's hang out here a little longer. Maybe,
after all that washing, we need the chill stretch it out.
How about some yoga for that. Head over to Black Circle,
a micro brewery and venue that hosts live music, drag Bengo, comedy,

(18:16):
and on select Sunday mornings, death metal Yoga. Twenty five
bucks gets you a beginning yoga class and a pint
of beer. A trained yoga teacher leaves the class while
the DJ spins metal for the soul. Get your face
melted and downward facing dog. Are you starting to get
why people love this city? Okay, so we've gone deep

(18:49):
into the quirky, but let's not neglect the giant elephant
in the room. This is Indianapolis, home of the Indy
five hundred, the greatest spectacle in racing, the largest single
day sporting event in the world, and it all happens
in the undisputed Vatican of the city. The Indianapolis Motor Speedway,

(19:13):
also known as the Brickyard. The race track was formerly
paved in bricks. It isn't anymore, but a narrow strip
of bricks remains, and tradition demands that the race winners
kiss the bricks, literally pluck her up and kiss them.
The Brickyard hosts races throughout the year, but the Indy
five hundred is a big one, landing on the last

(19:33):
Sunday of May and drawing a staggering three hundred and
fifty thousand bodies, close to half the population of the city.
You might think we are straying away from our topic
of music, but music is in fact integral to the race.
Musical traditions include the ritual performance of Back Home Again
in Indiana, performed before the start of the race since

(19:55):
nineteen nineteen, most famously by Jim Nabors, who sang it
most year between nineteen seventy two in twenty fourteen, Then
there's the Snake Pit, a massive day long music festival
that happens concurrently with the race on a stage in
the infield by turn three Joshua Tree Festival boasts views
of the park Spectacular Landscapes and Sasquatch Festival is hosted

(20:19):
on the gorgeous Columbia River, but the snake Pit boasts
its own breathtaking view. The indie freaking five hundred cars
roorn by a two hundred miles per hour. As the
organizers posted on social media, it's an EDM festival during
a literal race. What's more epic than that. This year's
artists included Cascade Subatronics and DJ Diesel aka Shaquille O'Neal.

(20:43):
If you find yourself near the speedway for any reason,
don't miss Indianapolis favorite the vintage fast food restaurant Mug
and Bun, just a three minute drive from our Vatican
and worth any length of drive for that matter. Park
outside the Mug and Bun, flip your headlights quickly on
and off, and a server will come take your order.

(21:05):
No need to bother with the food. But what you
really want is the root beer. It's low carbonated, impossibly creamy,
somehow rich with strong vanilla and sasparilla notes. The owners
brew it from scratch in the basement every single day,
and there is no better root beer in the world period.

(21:28):
Your face just got melted. You need to cool off.
This world can be divided into two kinds of people,
those who flocked to Indianapolis for the last weekend of
May and those who assiduously avoid Indianapolis during the last
week of May. If fast cars and inflated hotel prices

(21:51):
and hundreds of thousands of drunk people isn't your thing,
you might want to aim for a different time of year.
Jazz Fest in early October, for example, is it's a
slower paced, family friendly, two day festival held in the
McAllister Amphitheater in Garfield Park, featuring national acts, which last
year included The Rebirth Jazz Band and Terry Lynn Carryton.

(22:12):
I already mentioned wonder Road, which lands in June. In
Trees in August, but let's drift back to the fringes now.
If you want to go really boutique, try back Alley
Ballyhoo in early August, a psychedelic festival hosted by one
of Indy's best record stores, Square Cat, Finyl and Fountain Square.

(22:33):
The two day bally who occupies one outdoor stage in
one inside the record store and features a mix of
national and local psychedelic acts. Squarecat regularly hosts music, but
also boasts an excellent cafe serving great coffee in local
and regional beer. The decor is pure seventies recroom, Macromay

(22:55):
light fixtures, wood paneled walls, checkerboard tile, and a whole
lot of burnt orange, plus an abundance of records, new
and used and always tantalizing. Severely problematic for me. The
biggest night of the year for local music is Tonic
Ball on the Friday before Thanksgiving at five venues in

(23:16):
Fountain Square. Each year, five bands or musicians are selected
and their songs are covered by top local performers. Everyone
wants to play Tonic Ball. Local bands jockey for a spot.
All the proceeds benefit Second Helpings, a nonprofit that feeds
and supports thousands of Indiana residents every day. It does

(23:36):
it through community kitchen, food delivery, and culinary job training.
Remember what I said about philanthropy, This impulse to help
and give is really seeped into the culture here. So
by filling your calendar with time this way, you benefit
more than your own ears. State Street Pub isn't exactly hidden,

(24:00):
but it sits outside one of the most populated cultural
neighborhoods on an unassuming block on the city's near east side,
co owned and operated by legendary Indianapolis music lover Jimmy Paoni,
who bought the small, unpretentious bar eight years ago and
books the room most nights with punk, rock, metal, and
hip hop artists. The smallesh room, capacity one hundred and

(24:21):
thirty fills easily, sounds good, and is known as that
very special place every music city needs as the place
where musicians play for musicians, a place to catch up,
a place for those coming up on the rise, place
to showcase new material. The pub serves food too, tacos
and burgers, including a vegetarian black being burger. These hidden

(24:42):
gems are the vital arteries of every music scene. Two
things you should do before your trip, both of which
will help you feel more tuned into Indy. First, read
a Kurt Vonnegut book. Really any of them, but I
especially recommend Player Piano Cat's Cradle, Slaughterhouse Five, or Breakfast

(25:07):
of Champions. Vonnegut himself once said, all my jokes are Indianapolis,
all my attitudes are Indianapolis, My adenoids are Indianapolis. If
I ever sever myself from Indianapolis, I would be out
of business. What people like about me is Indianapolis Vonnegut's ryhness,

(25:27):
his sense of the ethical, his self deprecating humor, and
his stubborn streak of cranky hopefulness even through darkness. He'll
absorb it all from reading his work and carry it
with you on your visit while you're in town. Make
sure you make it by the two story Vonnegut mural
on mass Ave to feel his benevolent gaze and basque
in the aura of the city's beloved literary icon. Second,

(25:53):
and I wasn't going to suggest another podcast this season
other than I just want you to listen to this
one and get on with your life and get out
there and see some live music and participate in the
living culture. But if you want, put in your earbuds
and listen to the podcast Cultural Manifesto with Indianapolis DJ
and journalist Kyle Long. Kyle has a deep grasp of

(26:16):
Indiana music past and present, and just listening to a
few episodes will provide substantial context for your time in Indie.
Start with the recent two parter called the az of
Indiana Music, or his excellent hour on women pioneers of
Indiana Punk, new Wave and noise music, and then your
engines will be greased up for naptown. The thing is

(26:45):
India new place is an app nickname. Indianapolis is new.
It was founded in eighteen twenty one. New York City
was founded in sixteen twenty four. It still feels like
it's in the process of becoming, but that's it doesn't
make it no place in New York and LA they
aren't done building yet last time I checked. It brings

(27:06):
to mind the Zen Buddhist concept of a beginner's mind,
a state of being that is characterized by openness, curiosity, eagerness,
and a lack of preconceptions, as the Zen monks shon
Ryu Suzuki put it in his book En Mind, Beginner's
Mind in nineteen seventy. In the beginner's mind, there are
many possibilities, but in the experts there are few. Indianapolis

(27:29):
overflows with its many possibilities, which explains why there are
more venues than you'd expect in a city this size,
and people are always opening new ones, and it explains
why there are at least four extraordinarily good record stores
that stay busy and profitable. There's even a nonprofit organization

(27:50):
musical family tree. It has the mission of spreading Indiana
music to build a more world recognized music scene in Indiana.
There is something through and inspiring about being in a
place that hasn't entirely arrived and solidified, but that is
so clearly engaged in the ongoing process of becoming. And

(28:21):
one more thing, many Who's Your gen xers grew up
to the soundtrack of The Zero Boys, a semi indie
punk band whose influence spread far beyond the Midwest, but
whose soul remains firmly rooted in Indiana. If I had
to pick an anthem for Indianapolis, there are plenty of
songs to choose from, including ones I've already mentioned here

(28:43):
Naptown Blues, back Home Again in Indiana. We could add
to the list the Gizmos. The Midwest can be alright
in the Jackson Fives, I'm going back to Indiana, but
these all tie for second place against the Zero Boys.
Trying Harder, We've been trying harder, harder, sing Zero Boys
charismatic lead singer Paul Mayhern for to get our way.

(29:06):
We've been trying harder, harder, and it's gonna pay. It's
a song best experience in a full house of Hoosiers
singing along, fists pumping. We've been trying harder, harder, harder, harder,

(29:30):
and that is our time in Indie DM. If you
have any questions or further suggestions, let me know how
we're doing here. I can keep the show going forever
with your follows and your reviews and your word of mouth.
If you want me to cover your town this season,
just hit me up on Instagram at Will Daily Official,
or search Will Daily d A I L E Y

(29:52):
on your favorite platform. This show got a second season
because of you, so thank you for everything. If you
aren't following Side of Our Town or you haven't reviewed it,
I ask you to consider doing so so that you
might join this band. The Sound of Our Town is
a production of Double Elvis and iHeartRadio. You can also
hit us up on IG at Double Elvis or Twitter

(30:13):
at Double Elvis FM. The show is executively produced by
Jake Brennan and Brady Sadler for Double Elvis, production assistance
by Matt Boden. The show has created, written, hosted, and
scored by me Will Daily. This episode's head writer is
Frieda Lovesmith. Music for this episode was composed and performed
by me. You can check out my songs on Spotify, Apple,

(30:33):
band Camp, or just come to any of my shows
by going to will Daily dot com. All right, we're
up to the next town, the next sound. Thank you
for your time, and thank you for your ears.