Episode Transcript
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Speaker 1 (00:00):
Good morning, everybody. Welcome.
Speaker 2 (00:02):
I'm Ron Wilson, and you are in the garden here
on news radio six to ten WTVN eight two to
one WTVN eight hundred and six y ten w tv
IN Jump on board. We're talking about yardening, you and me.
The spring has sprung officially. Now are you excited? Got
the goosebumps going itching? Just can't wait to get out
start working in that yard and garden.
Speaker 1 (00:22):
Pull back the rains a little bit. Yep.
Speaker 2 (00:24):
The weather's up and down, no doubt about it. And
it looks like next week's weather stand pretty cool, not
too warm. Maybe some daytime warm toll you know, fifty ish,
but then nighttime back down again cold. And as I
have always said this time of the year, when we
get a week like that, I'll take it. I like
that now, you know. I don't want the rain, obviously
(00:47):
because we want to get out and work. But that's
nice weather to work in. When you're outside working in
the landscape, you don't sweat quite as much. Plants like it.
Last thing you can get done, and the big thing
is right now is that as the temperature stay cooler,
as we work our way into the spring season, you know,
it holds everything back a little bit, so it's still
coming along, and it'll still continue to progress, and the
(01:10):
warmer days and we'll get some sun and I'll continue
to get those buds swelling and moving and the flowering
coming along. I'm seeing witch, hazel and flower. Now I'm
seeing some forscythia starting to pop, cornice, moss and flour
some of the early dog or magnolia's the star starting
to show, so you.
Speaker 1 (01:28):
Know they're coming, and the dashs and all they're coming.
They know it's here.
Speaker 2 (01:31):
But when you have temperatures like this where it stays
a little cooler, especially the nighttime temps, it really just
kind of slows them down and brings them into it slowly.
So the benefit of that is one is they're not
popping out. We've had, you know, we've had first of
aprils late March, early aprils where it just got all
of sudden in the seventies and just stayed there for
two or three weeks, and of course everything came into bloom.
(01:55):
There was no staggering of blooming times or whatever. They
all came into blue at the same time, and they
don't last very long. Warmer temperatures the flowers on these
plants don't last very long. So the cooler the temperatures,
when they do finally open up, actual lasts longer for
so that's a good thing obviously if it stays cooler,
but we don't get a frost or freeze and then
in bloom, that's a good thing because then we don't
(02:17):
have the risk of the flowers being damaged, especially especially
if you're a produce grower, such as fruits and berries.
You know, you get out there and you get your
apple tree or your peach tree that's just now starting
to you know, full flowers starting to open up, and
you get that thirty two degrees or colder into the
twenties boom, you lost a percentage of your fruit, if
(02:38):
not sometimes all of it because of the colder temps.
So this is actually a good thing. I know you're
chomping at the bit to get out there and start
doing a lot of work, but again, you know, look
at we've talked about over the last several weeks. Look
at the things that you can do right now while
it's cooler, you know, it's stay a little whatever. Let's
(02:59):
look at things like that, and you know, working between
the rainfall obviously the soil doesn't dry quite as quickly
in between the rainfall. But you know what projects we
work with, and the thing of it is, right now,
your full go. As far as planting in the landscape, trees, shrubs, evergreens, roses, perennials,
(03:20):
you know if they're available at your local garden centers
right now, what you can find out there for landscaping,
you're open.
Speaker 1 (03:26):
You're ready to go full bore.
Speaker 2 (03:28):
And as long as the soil is workable, not too wet,
and you can get out and the edge of those
beds create beds, digging the soil, you're good to go.
So that's stuff you can get going on. But let's
not complain about the cooler temps. Let's enjoy it as
it carries us through the spring season. I, personally, horticulturally speaking,
(03:49):
say yes, this is a good thing. Speaking of horticulturally speaking,
lots of questions again this week. Is it too early
to be putting mulch down? I see the landscape company
out doing our neighbors and they're remulching and they're adding
lots of malts to the top of it. I see
them know at this place doing a lot of mulching
is I thought you said it was too early to
(04:09):
do this. Well, horticulturally speaking, it is typically better to
remult or add mault to those beds a little later
into the spring season. The reason being is several reasons.
One is to just let the soils warm up as
we go along and let them dry out as we
go along as well. And by adding additional mult on
(04:31):
top of that right now, keeps the soil cooler longer
into the season, keeps the soil maybe possibly more moist
going into the spring season. So you know, it's best
to hold off now. Can you get by with doing
it now? Absolutely? As a matter of fact, that's why
you see somebody landscape firms out right now mulching landscape
(04:53):
beds that have woody trees and shrubs, those hardy plants.
You can pull that off, there's no doubt about it,
and get away with it. But the ideal thing right now,
you know, if you're doing your own mulching, is to
get out there with the old garden weasel or a
leaf rake or something like that and just fluff up
(05:17):
your existing mulch. If you go out there and you
run that and the garden weasel doesn't work for anything
besides that, or good soil and raise beds. That's you
can't handle our hard soil. So if you look in
your garage and you got one hanging up in the
attic or up in the rafters, and you haven't used
it for a long time, that would be a great
thing to get down and use to fluff up your
mulch and fluff it up. And what you may find
(05:40):
is when you get to pick up all the debris
in your malts from the winter, and then you go
in in your fluff and you regrade and re level it.
You may not need to add any more mulch, or
you may only need to add it in a few areas,
but doing that freshens it up. It makes your landscape
look better. And that's this face it you like that
(06:01):
nu most going down. It sure looks good when they're
done with it, but it, you know, it freshens it up,
so yours looks pretty good too. And then you can
determine a little bit later on down the road, when
you're all said and done, maybe you're gonna add a
few trees or shrubs or whatever, maybe some flowers. Then
you can come back and do that final mulching as
we get more into the mid to latter part of
the spring season, before we get into the summer. Actually,
(06:24):
spring maulching was kind of set up. It was supposed
to be for a pre getting ready for the summer
season by getting everything mulched in before we get to
the heat of the summer. So you know, if you
can hold off, if you can fluff up the mulch
and not add most to it right now, that's, to me,
is the best way to go. If you've got a
(06:44):
landscape company that is doing refreshing years now and replenishing,
you can do it. It'll it'll work, but it's better
if you would wait. But they can't because they otherwise
it wouldn't get all all their jobs done, so you
know they've got to do it now. And the other
question along with that is when I'm putting my new
mulch down and I want to put a pre emergent
(07:07):
herbicide in that mulch to keep the weed seeds from growing.
Do I put that down before I mulch, before I
put fresh mulse down. Do I put that down after
I'm done mulching. Should I take all the mulch off
put it down on the soil, and then put the
mulch back on top. Where is the best way to
(07:29):
apply pre emerged herbicides in landscape beds And the answer
would be, if the budget allowed, the absolute best scenario
would literally be putting pre emulsion pre emergent herbside on
the soil mulch, then pre emersion on top of the mulch,
so you create two barriers to stop those weed seeds
(07:52):
from growing. They'll germany, but they don't grow, they can't
root in thanks to that pre emerged herboside. That would
be the ultimate scenario. Who's going to do that? Not
many people, not me, So the best thing to do. Then,
second best thing would be to fluff up your mulch,
add mulch if you're going to or whatever you finally
do and you're done planting, then apply your pre emergent
(08:14):
herbicide to the top of the mulch. Because the idea,
one of the ideas behind the mulch obviously, is to
reduce weed seeds from growing up through the mulch, right
from growing up out of the soil, and so the
mulch does that naturally, and then you have that barrier
on top, which will stop any of the seeds that
blow into the mult which happens a lot from germinating
(08:35):
and growing in the mulch. So you know that's the
best way or best scenario to go when it comes
to pre emergent herb sides. And remember if you go
through and next week you fluff it all up and
you decide to add a little bit of mulch and
you put down a pre emergent herbicide and you will
get it watered in, and you created the barrier, and
in three weeks from now you want to go back
(08:56):
and add a shrub or two or three to that area.
So you're going to pull the mulch back and replant.
When you pull the mulch back, what'd you do? You
just broke that barrier that it had formed with the
pre emerged herbosides. So all you have to do is
when you're done planting, put your mulch back like it
should be. Remember one to three inches three inches max.
(09:18):
In depth three inches max. And I don't think you
find it three inches deep in any of my beds.
Usually about an inch and a half two inches max.
But one to three inches. Put it all back and
then reapply the herb the pre emerged herbicide to the
areas that you broke the barrier, all right, so then
you reapply it, water it in and your barrier is
(09:41):
back again.
Speaker 1 (09:41):
So you can't do it that way as well.
Speaker 2 (09:44):
And remember on pre emerged herbicides, there are different pre
emergence for different situations, the lawn, the landscape, perennial beds,
ground cover, vegetable gardens. There's pre emerged herbosides for all
of them, and they all don't work in the same situation,
so make sure you get the right pre emergion for
the right situation. A couple of them will overlap. Dimension
(10:07):
can be used in the lawn and the landscape, and
you see it used quite a bit in a lot
of the pre emergent orb sides that use in the
springtime along with a spring feeding. But you can buy
it separately some of the prenes. You have to read
the label. Some are available in some areas, some or not.
Corn gluten meal, which is an all natural pre emergent herbyside,
(10:29):
can be used just about anywhere groundcover, vegetable garden, lawn, landscape.
Speaker 1 (10:34):
You can use it.
Speaker 2 (10:34):
Not as effective as the synthetics, but it is a
natural alternative for you that's out there, So make sure
you read the label to understand where these can be
used and they all need to be watered in to
create that barrier, and then you're good to go. Quick break,
we come back. Phone lines are open for you at
eight two to one wtv IN Marvin, Marvin, you'll be
(10:55):
coming up next, jump on board here on news radio
six to ten WTVN. Did you look at the soil temperatures,
by the way, this morning at six o'clock we were
at forty three degrees, The last two day average was
forty five and the weak average forty nine degrees, so
we're still staying fairly cool. Still time to stretch it out,
putting that pre emergent ner beside down in the lawn
(11:17):
because remember looking for that fifty five degrees consistently.
Speaker 1 (11:20):
Can you do it now? Absolutely? Not an issue.
Speaker 2 (11:23):
But if you want to wait it out a little
bit longer to make it last longer, you still have time. Marvin, Marvin,
good morning, good morning. How are you, sir? Good good?
Speaker 3 (11:36):
I needed some advice on beech trees.
Speaker 1 (11:43):
Are you okay, yep.
Speaker 3 (11:46):
Okay, okay? About five years ago, I got four feats
or trees off on my cousins and give them to me.
I planted them. They grew up beautifully. They get uh
buds on them like really nice. I kept spraying them
(12:07):
with uh fruit spray for the insects and things like this.
Done everything I could do, even when I thought they
was gonna maybe get some cross the free some of
my cover them. Done everything I could do. But I
have not got any edible peaches off of them there
ever since I've started five years ago. I don't know
(12:29):
what I'm going wrong but that I'll get peaches. And
one year I got them overloaded with peaches where I
have take a lot off of keeping them from breaking
the limbs. But the peaches are hard as rocks, and
when the time comes time when you think they would
be ready, they like rock from inside out. I don't
(12:52):
know what to do.
Speaker 2 (12:54):
Yeah, that's uh. So you are getting the fruit. So
when they are uh flowering in the springtime, they are
setting fruit. That's not an issue. So you do go
into the spring season with fruit on the on the
peach trees. It's just from that point forward they're not
ripening properly. Correct, Do you know what you know, what
(13:17):
selections you have or they just random?
Speaker 3 (13:21):
Well, I don't know, but I know he has trees
and we always eate more histories and they're really good peaches.
And my neighbor had one something like that, but he's
got hit by life. Thing that they are really good peaches,
but the regular of red and yellow peaches.
Speaker 1 (13:38):
Right, well, so you know, the only.
Speaker 2 (13:44):
Okay, the only thing I'm trying to think through what
what could cause the issue? Especially if you've had that
happening for five years now and you've yet to get
a good peach. Uh, what are are you spraying justin insecticide?
Are using funge your side?
Speaker 1 (13:57):
Also?
Speaker 3 (13:59):
Well, I get the fruit tree spray from loads. Let's
cover everything. Okay, I'm not sure what the name it was.
Maybe I wasn't get the right type.
Speaker 1 (14:14):
Yeah.
Speaker 2 (14:16):
The thing about peaches that I think of it again,
it's hard to say without seeing the peaches. And what
I would do, things I'd want you to do is if,
by chance, again, if they set the fruit, they start
to come on, uh, and you can tell right away
they're just not ripening, right, Pick a few off and
either go to your local OSU extension officer County Extension
(14:37):
or take some to a local garden center and let
somebody take a look at them to see if we
can determine what else is going on there. But a
lot of times when I think about peaches and what
we're spraying for, they do have can have some insect issues,
there's no doubt, but peaches are usually faced more with
disease issues rather than insect issues. And and so a
(15:00):
lot of times these combo sprays, and most of the
chemical companies make them bonnye. They all have a combo
spray that's all in one. Sometimes the percentages of what
you really need, especially for the funge of side, is
this such a low rate that it, you know, it
doesn't really cover what you're trying to take care of.
(15:20):
And timing is also very important. And like for instance,
peach leaf curl, which can cause problems with your peaches,
and it causes them curling on some of the leaves
as well. It's a you have to use a funge
of side that is labeled for peach leaf curl, and
you actually have to do it while the tree is dormant,
(15:41):
so you would get it before the buds even start
to swell, catch them at that time, and then at
bud break, you know, then you start spraying your funge
of sides for other issues. But there's one that has
to have to be sprayed before it even breaks out
into bud. And then once you have that green bud
where they're starting to swell and open, there is a
series of sprays that you are protecting.
Speaker 1 (16:02):
From that point.
Speaker 2 (16:03):
Then you've got to hold up whither and flour obviously
to let the pollinators do their thing. Then you as
soon as the flowers break and blast and go away,
then we come back and start our fungicidal applications again
and carry that into the summer season. So timing is
very important. What you're using is very important, and the
most important thing is try to diagnose what the issue is.
(16:26):
And I've got a feeling it has something to do
there with possibly some kind of a fungal issue. The
trees look good, the leaves look good, they grow well. Correct, correct, Yeah,
So then the next thing I would be taking a
look at and you're getting pollination because they're staying on
(16:46):
there and lasting right to the very end to whether harvestable, right, right,
So our pollinators are there, So that's covered. So now
it's got to be something else. So now if we
get to that point, then you got to pick some
off and get them to some body to take a
look at it if they're doing the same thing and
try to diagnose what it is, and then we can
(17:06):
take a look at that program. But I would look
at specifically a fungicide and spray with rather than that
combo spray. Have an insecticide on hand. It may be
eight eight, it may be insecticidal soap, you know, if
you want to go all natural something like that, in
case you would have an insect issue. But otherwise, I
(17:28):
think the fungicides are going to be the important thing
here and your timely sprays. And if you, as a
matter of fact, if you go to OSUE Extensions website,
they usually have a tip sheet on there on the
spraying program. You could print a chart out and it'll
show you timing wise as far as sprays. But it's
got I'm thinking it's got to be something to do
(17:49):
fungal disease rather than anything else. And again timing very important,
and the type of fungicide that you use very important.
Captan manco zeb too probably the most popular ones used
in the in the fruit production. Uh, and then take
it from there, and if it continues on then I
would say we got another issue where let's let's get
(18:10):
a couple into for samples. Let somebody look at it,
try to diagnose what it is. If that, by chance
does come to that, Marvin, you gotta let me know
what you found out, because I want to know for
UH as well.
Speaker 1 (18:21):
Okay, okay, that's.
Speaker 3 (18:24):
The first thing I'll do is rather dorm right. I'll
get some the bumble side and it's spraying good, and
then when they start to turn, and I'll take a
couple of uh into the garden four su. I'm pretty
far away from the USCO, but if you got a local.
Speaker 2 (18:44):
Garden center you can take them to, that would be
great as well. They can take a look at it.
Maybe they can help you out as looking at it
as well. UH, and take it from there. But again,
fundacidle is before and then at bud break and then
you've got you know, every two or three weeks there
you're gonna be doing some spring with funge of sides,
so you know, take it from there. And if if
you can't find that tip sheet on spring, if you
(19:06):
email me, I'll get one back.
Speaker 1 (19:08):
To you.
Speaker 3 (19:09):
Oh okay, thank.
Speaker 2 (19:11):
You, Okay, all right, Marvin, good talking with you. You're welcome.
Let us know what the results are and would like
to hear back from you.
Speaker 1 (19:19):
Denny. Hang on, We're going to take a break. We
come back.
Speaker 2 (19:21):
You're coming up next A two to one w TV
and is our number here on news radio six to
ten WTV in we are talking. You are here on
news radio six ten WTVN eight two to one WTV
and is our numbers you know during your break. Sometimes
I just sit here thinking about some of the questions
and you talk about those peaches and all, you know,
I said, you know, could it be as simple as
(19:42):
it just aren't turning right?
Speaker 1 (19:44):
Aren't ripening?
Speaker 2 (19:44):
There's no other disease issues, you know, that does happen sometimes.
I know some folks that will take those that can't
seem to get them to ripen as well on the tree.
They'll pick them and put them in a paper bag
like a tomato, you know, you put them in a
paper bag and see if that works. Or sometimes you
put them in a bag with a really ripe apple
with the ethylene gas, and sometimes that'll ripen them. I mean,
(20:06):
that's that's the possibility. You know, when you buy them
from the peach truck, that peach truck tour. They're always
harder in a rock when you first get them, set
them out on the account for about two or three days.
Next thing you know, they're nice and starting to ripen it.
And they ripen over several days once they're inside the house.
Speaker 3 (20:21):
Uh.
Speaker 2 (20:21):
But they when they pick those this they're pretty hard too.
So you know, don't want to overthink the whole thing,
but more than likely. And the other thing is if
they were grown from seed, so it's got somebody, You
got a peach tree and really good and you save
the seeds and you grow your own. If that was
a hybrid type of a peach, they don't necessarily come
true to seed, so you might have something totally different
(20:42):
as a peach and it may produce fruit, but not
like the peach tree that it had. So sometimes I
over you know, you overthink these things. But it could
be as simple as just getting them, get them to
try to ripe it in a paper bag or something.
But anyway, when that happens, though, the point being is,
you know, get samples to somebody, let them take a
look at it so we can try to diagnose exactly
what it is by physically looking and doing whatever. And
(21:05):
then of course take it from there. One last thing
and we'll go back to the guarding phone lines.
Speaker 1 (21:09):
Always.
Speaker 2 (21:09):
You put together a great bulletin. It's a two hundred
and fifty page bulletin and it's about thirty or forty bucks,
and it's bulletin number nine forty, nine forty. And if
you're going to grow fruits and berries in your backyard,
this is a great reference book. It's called the Midwest
Home Fruit Production Guide, Bulletin nine forty and again I
(21:32):
think it's up to maybe thirty or thirty five bucks.
I don't know, but it is a complete guide when
it comes to raising fruits and berries in your backyard
and including peaches. And it's something you might want to
invest in if you're thinking about doing the fruits and
berries or you're doing it not having real good success.
That's a great reference guide. And you can order that
online with him or go to their extension offices and
(21:52):
get it. But it's bulletin number nine forty. All right, Denny,
good morning, Yes, sir On Wilson, there you go.
Speaker 3 (22:04):
You do a great job. I've been listening to you
for years.
Speaker 1 (22:08):
Good thank you, sir. Appreciate it.
Speaker 3 (22:10):
Hey, uh, Prene pre emergent for flower beds and gardens,
you recommend that or.
Speaker 2 (22:18):
Yeah, yeah, it's good. You know, when it comes to
pre emerged herbicides, you got to think, you know, it
used to be that's all you thought was Prene. Prene
was probably the only product that was out there on
the market. And of course they have a couple of
different types as well. They have the Prene for the
landscape beds, they have a Preene for the vegetable garden.
They have an organic Preene that they have available too.
(22:38):
So yes, absolutely, Preene's been around a long time. It's
a very reputable company that the product is good, it works. Uh,
they're kind of the pioneers when it comes to a
packaged pre emerged herb side.
Speaker 1 (22:50):
So yep, it's a good product.
Speaker 3 (22:53):
Well man, well you do a great job and.
Speaker 1 (22:57):
Keep going.
Speaker 2 (22:58):
Thanks Denny, All right, appreciate it, all right, appreciate you listening.
Appreciate the call. Yeah, think about it. I mean, probably
listen to our show twenty years ago. We probably I
don't talk about pre and as much as I used to,
but yes, it's out there, so you find in most
of the garden centers. But yeah, it's been there forever.
And again read I think they I think they may
(23:20):
have come out with one for the lawns too, but
again read the label and the prins are going to
be individual as far as where they're used, but absolutely,
and they do have an organic one that can be
used as well. And they do a nice job with
their label with you know, with the what you can
use it with. And their website is very good too
about can I use this with a certain plan or whatever.
(23:42):
Their website answers a lot of good questions on where
and when you can use that pre emergent rbside. So yeah,
they do a great great job p r e e
N Pioneers and pre emerging rbside for the homeowner, no
doubt about it.
Speaker 1 (23:54):
All right, we'll take another break.
Speaker 2 (23:55):
When we come back, we'll continue taking your calls at
a two to one WTVN here on new Radio six
to ten WTVN eight two to one WTVN eight hundred
and six ten WTVN talking to your ardening here on
these radio six to ten WTVN. You know, we were
talking earlier about read the label, especially with the pre
and all that, and that applies to everything that you're
doing out there. You go to the garden center or
(24:17):
where we happen to buy the products that you use
in your garden, maybe that's the box store or whatever,
make sure you read the label. It is the law,
and follow what it says on there. If it says
a teaspoon per gallon of water, it's a teaspoon per
gallon of water.
Speaker 1 (24:30):
More is not better.
Speaker 2 (24:31):
Obviously, there's no chemical police out there or label police.
It's going to stop you from doing whatever. But follow
the label please. And again, as we continue to bring
up here about the bees and the pollinators and all,
you know, continue to try to, you know, make sure
that if you need to do some spraying, that you
absolutely have to spray for the necessity of protecting your
(24:54):
fruit or or production or the plant health or whatever
it may be.
Speaker 1 (24:58):
And then what is the most our manly.
Speaker 2 (25:00):
Friendly thing you can use a lot of good choices
out there for you today. It just gets better and
better all the time, the naturals and all. And again,
make sure you read the label. I don't care if
it's natural, organic, synthetic, they're all still pesticides, herbicides. It's
still chemical, and you follow the label that's on there.
One thing I do want to remind you of as
(25:22):
we get into the spring season, weeds are going to
start popping up. That grass is going to start growing
where you don't want it to grow. So we go
and we reach on the shelf when we get our
weed and grass killer right. And weed and grass killer
for years and years and years has been the common
name of round up and of course round up. You know,
it's like saying Kleenex or coke or whatever it's. You know,
(25:45):
there's get some round up and a vegetation killer and
take it out. And of course there are other companies
like Bonnit has their particular one, Furlom has kills all
you know, with sometimes the same chemical just a different
name on there, and those are all.
Speaker 1 (26:00):
Available for you.
Speaker 2 (26:02):
The glyphosate has been the issue about the chemical and roundup,
which is they've gone through some of the lawsuits over
the last several years, which seemed to have somewhat stopped
at this stage because they're just having it. I don't
think any of the cases are actually winning, and I'm
as far as I know to this date, there's been
no still no scientific research that actually proves that the
(26:24):
round up you know, caused cancer. But nevertheless, I'm not
getting into that. But it was the glyphosate that was
in question. So the folks at round Up decided to
change the formula. They had mentioned this about two or
three years ago, that they were going to change the
formula for their homeowner versions of round Up because there
are professional versions of round up as well at higher percentages.
(26:48):
Taking the glyphasate out of the round up and substituting
doing something else with the formula. Well they did that
last year and not a lot was said about it.
And again it's it is a new formula. If you'll
look look at it's round Up, whaed and grass Killer
for exclusive formula. Again, read the label please, because there
are differences from this roundup versus the old roundup that
(27:11):
had glyphosate. This now has three different herbicides and a
tricloporal is one of them, which is using in their
poison ivy killer. And that's the other thing I want
to mention here too, is all the different labels. When
you go to grab something that says round Up, they
use that brand name for a lot of different chemicals
that different products that do different things, so make sure
(27:34):
you're grabbing and read the label what your Roundup product
you want for what you're trying to do. Weed killer
in the lawn, you can't use the vegetation killer or
kill everything, so.
Speaker 1 (27:44):
Make sure you read the label.
Speaker 2 (27:45):
But anyway, the Roundup Weed and Grass Killer four Exclusive
Formula for Homeowner has three different new herbicides and there
no more glyphosate. They took it out, but the three
new herbicides that are in there also changed the restrictions
on the label. So as you're using this new Roundup
Weed and Grass Killer four Exclusive formula, it has different restrictions.
(28:10):
So after using it, you have to wait at least
a day before you plant any flowers annuals, seven days
at least before you plan any grass or grass seed,
two weeks for replanting deciduous trees and shrubs, and thirty
days before replanting evergreen trees and shrubs after spraying that
(28:33):
on the soil. So it's a different formula than what
the old Roundup used to be, so make sure you
check the label. If you still like the glyphosate and
you still want to use that fertil homes Kills All,
fertilome kills ALL is still the glyphisate. It still is
available for you to use, but again read the label,
follow the instructions and make sure you read the round
up label to make sure is what you are looking
(28:55):
for and it is a new formula. Quick break, We
come back. We've got a book to look at. Guide
the Raised Bed Gardening by Gardner Scott. Great interview, great
book here on news radio six ten WTVN.
Good morning, everybody. Welcome.
Speaker 2 (00:02):
I'm Ron Wilson, and you are in the garden here
on news radio six to ten WTVN eight two to
one WTVN eight hundred and six y ten w tv
IN Jump on board. We're talking about yardening, you and me.
The spring has sprung officially. Now are you excited? Got
the goosebumps going itching? Just can't wait to get out
start working in that yard and garden.
Speaker 1 (00:22):
Pull back the rains a little bit. Yep.
Speaker 2 (00:24):
The weather's up and down, no doubt about it. And
it looks like next week's weather stand pretty cool, not
too warm. Maybe some daytime warm toll you know, fifty ish,
but then nighttime back down again cold. And as I
have always said this time of the year, when we
get a week like that, I'll take it. I like
that now, you know. I don't want the rain, obviously
(00:47):
because we want to get out and work. But that's
nice weather to work in. When you're outside working in
the landscape, you don't sweat quite as much. Plants like it.
Last thing you can get done, and the big thing
is right now is that as the temperature stay cooler,
as we work our way into the spring season, you know,
it holds everything back a little bit, so it's still
coming along, and it'll still continue to progress, and the
(01:10):
warmer days and we'll get some sun and I'll continue
to get those buds swelling and moving and the flowering
coming along. I'm seeing witch, hazel and flower. Now I'm
seeing some forscythia starting to pop, cornice, moss and flour
some of the early dog or magnolia's the star starting
to show, so you.
Speaker 1 (01:28):
Know they're coming, and the dashs and all they're coming.
They know it's here.
Speaker 2 (01:31):
But when you have temperatures like this where it stays
a little cooler, especially the nighttime temps, it really just
kind of slows them down and brings them into it slowly.
So the benefit of that is one is they're not
popping out. We've had, you know, we've had first of
aprils late March, early aprils where it just got all
of sudden in the seventies and just stayed there for
two or three weeks, and of course everything came into bloom.
(01:55):
There was no staggering of blooming times or whatever. They
all came into blue at the same time, and they
don't last very long. Warmer temperatures the flowers on these
plants don't last very long. So the cooler the temperatures,
when they do finally open up, actual lasts longer for
so that's a good thing obviously if it stays cooler,
but we don't get a frost or freeze and then
in bloom, that's a good thing because then we don't
(02:17):
have the risk of the flowers being damaged, especially especially
if you're a produce grower, such as fruits and berries.
You know, you get out there and you get your
apple tree or your peach tree that's just now starting
to you know, full flowers starting to open up, and
you get that thirty two degrees or colder into the
twenties boom, you lost a percentage of your fruit, if
(02:38):
not sometimes all of it because of the colder temps.
So this is actually a good thing. I know you're
chomping at the bit to get out there and start
doing a lot of work, but again, you know, look
at we've talked about over the last several weeks. Look
at the things that you can do right now while
it's cooler, you know, it's stay a little whatever. Let's
(02:59):
look at things like that, and you know, working between
the rainfall obviously the soil doesn't dry quite as quickly
in between the rainfall. But you know what projects we
work with, and the thing of it is, right now,
your full go. As far as planting in the landscape, trees, shrubs, evergreens, roses, perennials,
(03:20):
you know if they're available at your local garden centers
right now, what you can find out there for landscaping,
you're open.
Speaker 1 (03:26):
You're ready to go full bore.
Speaker 2 (03:28):
And as long as the soil is workable, not too wet,
and you can get out and the edge of those
beds create beds, digging the soil, you're good to go.
So that's stuff you can get going on. But let's
not complain about the cooler temps. Let's enjoy it as
it carries us through the spring season. I, personally, horticulturally speaking,
(03:49):
say yes, this is a good thing. Speaking of horticulturally speaking,
lots of questions again this week. Is it too early
to be putting mulch down? I see the landscape company
out doing our neighbors and they're remulching and they're adding
lots of malts to the top of it. I see
them know at this place doing a lot of mulching
is I thought you said it was too early to
(04:09):
do this. Well, horticulturally speaking, it is typically better to
remult or add mault to those beds a little later
into the spring season. The reason being is several reasons.
One is to just let the soils warm up as
we go along and let them dry out as we
go along as well. And by adding additional mult on
(04:31):
top of that right now, keeps the soil cooler longer
into the season, keeps the soil maybe possibly more moist
going into the spring season. So you know, it's best
to hold off now. Can you get by with doing
it now? Absolutely? As a matter of fact, that's why
you see somebody landscape firms out right now mulching landscape
(04:53):
beds that have woody trees and shrubs, those hardy plants.
You can pull that off, there's no doubt about it,
and get away with it. But the ideal thing right now,
you know, if you're doing your own mulching, is to
get out there with the old garden weasel or a
leaf rake or something like that and just fluff up
(05:17):
your existing mulch. If you go out there and you
run that and the garden weasel doesn't work for anything
besides that, or good soil and raise beds. That's you
can't handle our hard soil. So if you look in
your garage and you got one hanging up in the
attic or up in the rafters, and you haven't used
it for a long time, that would be a great
thing to get down and use to fluff up your
mulch and fluff it up. And what you may find
(05:40):
is when you get to pick up all the debris
in your malts from the winter, and then you go
in in your fluff and you regrade and re level it.
You may not need to add any more mulch, or
you may only need to add it in a few areas,
but doing that freshens it up. It makes your landscape
look better. And that's this face it you like that
(06:01):
nu most going down. It sure looks good when they're
done with it, but it, you know, it freshens it up,
so yours looks pretty good too. And then you can
determine a little bit later on down the road, when
you're all said and done, maybe you're gonna add a
few trees or shrubs or whatever, maybe some flowers. Then
you can come back and do that final mulching as
we get more into the mid to latter part of
the spring season, before we get into the summer. Actually,
(06:24):
spring maulching was kind of set up. It was supposed
to be for a pre getting ready for the summer
season by getting everything mulched in before we get to
the heat of the summer. So you know, if you
can hold off, if you can fluff up the mulch
and not add most to it right now, that's, to me,
is the best way to go. If you've got a
(06:44):
landscape company that is doing refreshing years now and replenishing,
you can do it. It'll it'll work, but it's better
if you would wait. But they can't because they otherwise
it wouldn't get all all their jobs done, so you
know they've got to do it now. And the other
question along with that is when I'm putting my new
mulch down and I want to put a pre emergent
(07:07):
herbicide in that mulch to keep the weed seeds from growing.
Do I put that down before I mulch, before I
put fresh mulse down. Do I put that down after
I'm done mulching. Should I take all the mulch off
put it down on the soil, and then put the
mulch back on top. Where is the best way to
(07:29):
apply pre emerged herbicides in landscape beds And the answer
would be, if the budget allowed, the absolute best scenario
would literally be putting pre emulsion pre emergent herbside on
the soil mulch, then pre emersion on top of the mulch,
so you create two barriers to stop those weed seeds
(07:52):
from growing. They'll germany, but they don't grow, they can't
root in thanks to that pre emerged herboside. That would
be the ultimate scenario. Who's going to do that? Not
many people, not me, So the best thing to do. Then,
second best thing would be to fluff up your mulch,
add mulch if you're going to or whatever you finally
do and you're done planting, then apply your pre emergent
(08:14):
herbicide to the top of the mulch. Because the idea,
one of the ideas behind the mulch obviously, is to
reduce weed seeds from growing up through the mulch, right
from growing up out of the soil, and so the
mulch does that naturally, and then you have that barrier
on top, which will stop any of the seeds that
blow into the mult which happens a lot from germinating
(08:35):
and growing in the mulch. So you know that's the
best way or best scenario to go when it comes
to pre emergent herb sides. And remember if you go
through and next week you fluff it all up and
you decide to add a little bit of mulch and
you put down a pre emergent herbicide and you will
get it watered in, and you created the barrier, and
in three weeks from now you want to go back
(08:56):
and add a shrub or two or three to that area.
So you're going to pull the mulch back and replant.
When you pull the mulch back, what'd you do? You
just broke that barrier that it had formed with the
pre emerged herbosides. So all you have to do is
when you're done planting, put your mulch back like it
should be. Remember one to three inches three inches max.
(09:18):
In depth three inches max. And I don't think you
find it three inches deep in any of my beds.
Usually about an inch and a half two inches max.
But one to three inches. Put it all back and
then reapply the herb the pre emerged herbicide to the
areas that you broke the barrier, all right, so then
you reapply it, water it in and your barrier is
(09:41):
back again.
Speaker 1 (09:41):
So you can't do it that way as well.
Speaker 2 (09:44):
And remember on pre emerged herbicides, there are different pre
emergence for different situations, the lawn, the landscape, perennial beds,
ground cover, vegetable gardens. There's pre emerged herbosides for all
of them, and they all don't work in the same situation,
so make sure you get the right pre emergion for
the right situation. A couple of them will overlap. Dimension
(10:07):
can be used in the lawn and the landscape, and
you see it used quite a bit in a lot
of the pre emergent orb sides that use in the
springtime along with a spring feeding. But you can buy
it separately some of the prenes. You have to read
the label. Some are available in some areas, some or not.
Corn gluten meal, which is an all natural pre emergent herbyside,
(10:29):
can be used just about anywhere groundcover, vegetable garden, lawn, landscape.
Speaker 1 (10:34):
You can use it.
Speaker 2 (10:34):
Not as effective as the synthetics, but it is a
natural alternative for you that's out there, So make sure
you read the label to understand where these can be
used and they all need to be watered in to
create that barrier, and then you're good to go. Quick break,
we come back. Phone lines are open for you at
eight two to one wtv IN Marvin, Marvin, you'll be
(10:55):
coming up next, jump on board here on news radio
six to ten WTVN. Did you look at the soil temperatures,
by the way, this morning at six o'clock we were
at forty three degrees, The last two day average was
forty five and the weak average forty nine degrees, so
we're still staying fairly cool. Still time to stretch it out,
putting that pre emergent ner beside down in the lawn
(11:17):
because remember looking for that fifty five degrees consistently.
Speaker 1 (11:20):
Can you do it now? Absolutely? Not an issue.
Speaker 2 (11:23):
But if you want to wait it out a little
bit longer to make it last longer, you still have time. Marvin, Marvin,
good morning, good morning. How are you, sir? Good good?
Speaker 3 (11:36):
I needed some advice on beech trees.
Speaker 1 (11:43):
Are you okay, yep.
Speaker 3 (11:46):
Okay, okay? About five years ago, I got four feats
or trees off on my cousins and give them to me.
I planted them. They grew up beautifully. They get uh
buds on them like really nice. I kept spraying them
(12:07):
with uh fruit spray for the insects and things like this.
Done everything I could do, even when I thought they
was gonna maybe get some cross the free some of
my cover them. Done everything I could do. But I
have not got any edible peaches off of them there
ever since I've started five years ago. I don't know
(12:29):
what I'm going wrong but that I'll get peaches. And
one year I got them overloaded with peaches where I
have take a lot off of keeping them from breaking
the limbs. But the peaches are hard as rocks, and
when the time comes time when you think they would
be ready, they like rock from inside out. I don't
(12:52):
know what to do.
Speaker 2 (12:54):
Yeah, that's uh. So you are getting the fruit. So
when they are uh flowering in the springtime, they are
setting fruit. That's not an issue. So you do go
into the spring season with fruit on the on the
peach trees. It's just from that point forward they're not
ripening properly. Correct, Do you know what you know, what
(13:17):
selections you have or they just random?
Speaker 3 (13:21):
Well, I don't know, but I know he has trees
and we always eate more histories and they're really good peaches.
And my neighbor had one something like that, but he's
got hit by life. Thing that they are really good peaches,
but the regular of red and yellow peaches.
Speaker 1 (13:38):
Right, well, so you know, the only.
Speaker 2 (13:44):
Okay, the only thing I'm trying to think through what
what could cause the issue? Especially if you've had that
happening for five years now and you've yet to get
a good peach. Uh, what are are you spraying justin insecticide?
Are using funge your side?
Speaker 1 (13:57):
Also?
Speaker 3 (13:59):
Well, I get the fruit tree spray from loads. Let's
cover everything. Okay, I'm not sure what the name it was.
Maybe I wasn't get the right type.
Speaker 1 (14:14):
Yeah.
Speaker 2 (14:16):
The thing about peaches that I think of it again,
it's hard to say without seeing the peaches. And what
I would do, things I'd want you to do is if,
by chance, again, if they set the fruit, they start
to come on, uh, and you can tell right away
they're just not ripening, right, Pick a few off and
either go to your local OSU extension officer County Extension
(14:37):
or take some to a local garden center and let
somebody take a look at them to see if we
can determine what else is going on there. But a
lot of times when I think about peaches and what
we're spraying for, they do have can have some insect issues,
there's no doubt, but peaches are usually faced more with
disease issues rather than insect issues. And and so a
(15:00):
lot of times these combo sprays, and most of the
chemical companies make them bonnye. They all have a combo
spray that's all in one. Sometimes the percentages of what
you really need, especially for the funge of side, is
this such a low rate that it, you know, it
doesn't really cover what you're trying to take care of.
(15:20):
And timing is also very important. And like for instance,
peach leaf curl, which can cause problems with your peaches,
and it causes them curling on some of the leaves
as well. It's a you have to use a funge
of side that is labeled for peach leaf curl, and
you actually have to do it while the tree is dormant,
(15:41):
so you would get it before the buds even start
to swell, catch them at that time, and then at
bud break, you know, then you start spraying your funge
of sides for other issues. But there's one that has
to have to be sprayed before it even breaks out
into bud. And then once you have that green bud
where they're starting to swell and open, there is a
series of sprays that you are protecting.
Speaker 1 (16:02):
From that point.
Speaker 2 (16:03):
Then you've got to hold up whither and flour obviously
to let the pollinators do their thing. Then you as
soon as the flowers break and blast and go away,
then we come back and start our fungicidal applications again
and carry that into the summer season. So timing is
very important. What you're using is very important, and the
most important thing is try to diagnose what the issue is.
(16:26):
And I've got a feeling it has something to do
there with possibly some kind of a fungal issue. The
trees look good, the leaves look good, they grow well. Correct, correct, Yeah,
So then the next thing I would be taking a
look at and you're getting pollination because they're staying on
(16:46):
there and lasting right to the very end to whether harvestable, right, right,
So our pollinators are there, So that's covered. So now
it's got to be something else. So now if we
get to that point, then you got to pick some
off and get them to some body to take a
look at it if they're doing the same thing and
try to diagnose what it is, and then we can
(17:06):
take a look at that program. But I would look
at specifically a fungicide and spray with rather than that
combo spray. Have an insecticide on hand. It may be
eight eight, it may be insecticidal soap, you know, if
you want to go all natural something like that, in
case you would have an insect issue. But otherwise, I
(17:28):
think the fungicides are going to be the important thing
here and your timely sprays. And if you, as a
matter of fact, if you go to OSUE Extensions website,
they usually have a tip sheet on there on the
spraying program. You could print a chart out and it'll
show you timing wise as far as sprays. But it's
got I'm thinking it's got to be something to do
(17:49):
fungal disease rather than anything else. And again timing very important,
and the type of fungicide that you use very important.
Captan manco zeb too probably the most popular ones used
in the in the fruit production. Uh, and then take
it from there, and if it continues on then I
would say we got another issue where let's let's get
(18:10):
a couple into for samples. Let somebody look at it,
try to diagnose what it is. If that, by chance
does come to that, Marvin, you gotta let me know
what you found out, because I want to know for
UH as well.
Speaker 1 (18:21):
Okay, okay, that's.
Speaker 3 (18:24):
The first thing I'll do is rather dorm right. I'll
get some the bumble side and it's spraying good, and
then when they start to turn, and I'll take a
couple of uh into the garden four su. I'm pretty
far away from the USCO, but if you got a local.
Speaker 2 (18:44):
Garden center you can take them to, that would be
great as well. They can take a look at it.
Maybe they can help you out as looking at it
as well. UH, and take it from there. But again,
fundacidle is before and then at bud break and then
you've got you know, every two or three weeks there
you're gonna be doing some spring with funge of sides,
so you know, take it from there. And if if
you can't find that tip sheet on spring, if you
(19:06):
email me, I'll get one back.
Speaker 1 (19:08):
To you.
Speaker 3 (19:09):
Oh okay, thank.
Speaker 2 (19:11):
You, Okay, all right, Marvin, good talking with you. You're welcome.
Let us know what the results are and would like
to hear back from you.
Speaker 1 (19:19):
Denny. Hang on, We're going to take a break. We
come back.
Speaker 2 (19:21):
You're coming up next A two to one w TV
and is our number here on news radio six to
ten WTV in we are talking. You are here on
news radio six ten WTVN eight two to one WTV
and is our numbers you know during your break. Sometimes
I just sit here thinking about some of the questions
and you talk about those peaches and all, you know,
I said, you know, could it be as simple as
(19:42):
it just aren't turning right?
Speaker 1 (19:44):
Aren't ripening?
Speaker 2 (19:44):
There's no other disease issues, you know, that does happen sometimes.
I know some folks that will take those that can't
seem to get them to ripen as well on the tree.
They'll pick them and put them in a paper bag
like a tomato, you know, you put them in a
paper bag and see if that works. Or sometimes you
put them in a bag with a really ripe apple
with the ethylene gas, and sometimes that'll ripen them. I mean,
(20:06):
that's that's the possibility. You know, when you buy them
from the peach truck, that peach truck tour. They're always
harder in a rock when you first get them, set
them out on the account for about two or three days.
Next thing you know, they're nice and starting to ripen it.
And they ripen over several days once they're inside the house.
Speaker 3 (20:21):
Uh.
Speaker 2 (20:21):
But they when they pick those this they're pretty hard too.
So you know, don't want to overthink the whole thing,
but more than likely. And the other thing is if
they were grown from seed, so it's got somebody, You
got a peach tree and really good and you save
the seeds and you grow your own. If that was
a hybrid type of a peach, they don't necessarily come
true to seed, so you might have something totally different
(20:42):
as a peach and it may produce fruit, but not
like the peach tree that it had. So sometimes I
over you know, you overthink these things. But it could
be as simple as just getting them, get them to
try to ripe it in a paper bag or something.
But anyway, when that happens, though, the point being is,
you know, get samples to somebody, let them take a
look at it so we can try to diagnose exactly
what it is by physically looking and doing whatever. And
(21:05):
then of course take it from there. One last thing
and we'll go back to the guarding phone lines.
Speaker 1 (21:09):
Always.
Speaker 2 (21:09):
You put together a great bulletin. It's a two hundred
and fifty page bulletin and it's about thirty or forty bucks,
and it's bulletin number nine forty, nine forty. And if
you're going to grow fruits and berries in your backyard,
this is a great reference book. It's called the Midwest
Home Fruit Production Guide, Bulletin nine forty and again I
(21:32):
think it's up to maybe thirty or thirty five bucks.
I don't know, but it is a complete guide when
it comes to raising fruits and berries in your backyard
and including peaches. And it's something you might want to
invest in if you're thinking about doing the fruits and
berries or you're doing it not having real good success.
That's a great reference guide. And you can order that
online with him or go to their extension offices and
(21:52):
get it. But it's bulletin number nine forty. All right, Denny,
good morning, Yes, sir On Wilson, there you go.
Speaker 3 (22:04):
You do a great job. I've been listening to you
for years.
Speaker 1 (22:08):
Good thank you, sir. Appreciate it.
Speaker 3 (22:10):
Hey, uh, Prene pre emergent for flower beds and gardens,
you recommend that or.
Speaker 2 (22:18):
Yeah, yeah, it's good. You know, when it comes to
pre emerged herbicides, you got to think, you know, it
used to be that's all you thought was Prene. Prene
was probably the only product that was out there on
the market. And of course they have a couple of
different types as well. They have the Prene for the
landscape beds, they have a Preene for the vegetable garden.
They have an organic Preene that they have available too.
(22:38):
So yes, absolutely, Preene's been around a long time. It's
a very reputable company that the product is good, it works. Uh,
they're kind of the pioneers when it comes to a
packaged pre emerged herb side.
Speaker 1 (22:50):
So yep, it's a good product.
Speaker 3 (22:53):
Well man, well you do a great job and.
Speaker 1 (22:57):
Keep going.
Speaker 2 (22:58):
Thanks Denny, All right, appreciate it, all right, appreciate you listening.
Appreciate the call. Yeah, think about it. I mean, probably
listen to our show twenty years ago. We probably I
don't talk about pre and as much as I used to,
but yes, it's out there, so you find in most
of the garden centers. But yeah, it's been there forever.
And again read I think they I think they may
(23:20):
have come out with one for the lawns too, but
again read the label and the prins are going to
be individual as far as where they're used, but absolutely,
and they do have an organic one that can be
used as well. And they do a nice job with
their label with you know, with the what you can
use it with. And their website is very good too
about can I use this with a certain plan or whatever.
(23:42):
Their website answers a lot of good questions on where
and when you can use that pre emergent rbside. So yeah,
they do a great great job p r e e
N Pioneers and pre emerging rbside for the homeowner, no
doubt about it.
Speaker 1 (23:54):
All right, we'll take another break.
Speaker 2 (23:55):
When we come back, we'll continue taking your calls at
a two to one WTVN here on new Radio six
to ten WTVN eight two to one WTVN eight hundred
and six ten WTVN talking to your ardening here on
these radio six to ten WTVN. You know, we were
talking earlier about read the label, especially with the pre
and all that, and that applies to everything that you're
doing out there. You go to the garden center or
(24:17):
where we happen to buy the products that you use
in your garden, maybe that's the box store or whatever,
make sure you read the label. It is the law,
and follow what it says on there. If it says
a teaspoon per gallon of water, it's a teaspoon per
gallon of water.
Speaker 1 (24:30):
More is not better.
Speaker 2 (24:31):
Obviously, there's no chemical police out there or label police.
It's going to stop you from doing whatever. But follow
the label please. And again, as we continue to bring
up here about the bees and the pollinators and all,
you know, continue to try to, you know, make sure
that if you need to do some spraying, that you
absolutely have to spray for the necessity of protecting your
(24:54):
fruit or or production or the plant health or whatever
it may be.
Speaker 1 (24:58):
And then what is the most our manly.
Speaker 2 (25:00):
Friendly thing you can use a lot of good choices
out there for you today. It just gets better and
better all the time, the naturals and all. And again,
make sure you read the label. I don't care if
it's natural, organic, synthetic, they're all still pesticides, herbicides. It's
still chemical, and you follow the label that's on there.
One thing I do want to remind you of as
(25:22):
we get into the spring season, weeds are going to
start popping up. That grass is going to start growing
where you don't want it to grow. So we go
and we reach on the shelf when we get our
weed and grass killer right. And weed and grass killer
for years and years and years has been the common
name of round up and of course round up. You know,
it's like saying Kleenex or coke or whatever it's. You know,
(25:45):
there's get some round up and a vegetation killer and
take it out. And of course there are other companies
like Bonnit has their particular one, Furlom has kills all
you know, with sometimes the same chemical just a different
name on there, and those are all.
Speaker 1 (26:00):
Available for you.
Speaker 2 (26:02):
The glyphosate has been the issue about the chemical and roundup,
which is they've gone through some of the lawsuits over
the last several years, which seemed to have somewhat stopped
at this stage because they're just having it. I don't
think any of the cases are actually winning, and I'm
as far as I know to this date, there's been
no still no scientific research that actually proves that the
(26:24):
round up you know, caused cancer. But nevertheless, I'm not
getting into that. But it was the glyphosate that was
in question. So the folks at round Up decided to
change the formula. They had mentioned this about two or
three years ago, that they were going to change the
formula for their homeowner versions of round Up because there
are professional versions of round up as well at higher percentages.
(26:48):
Taking the glyphasate out of the round up and substituting
doing something else with the formula. Well they did that
last year and not a lot was said about it.
And again it's it is a new formula. If you'll
look look at it's round Up, whaed and grass Killer
for exclusive formula. Again, read the label please, because there
are differences from this roundup versus the old roundup that
(27:11):
had glyphosate. This now has three different herbicides and a
tricloporal is one of them, which is using in their
poison ivy killer. And that's the other thing I want
to mention here too, is all the different labels. When
you go to grab something that says round Up, they
use that brand name for a lot of different chemicals
that different products that do different things, so make sure
(27:34):
you're grabbing and read the label what your Roundup product
you want for what you're trying to do. Weed killer
in the lawn, you can't use the vegetation killer or
kill everything, so.
Speaker 1 (27:44):
Make sure you read the label.
Speaker 2 (27:45):
But anyway, the Roundup Weed and Grass Killer four Exclusive
Formula for Homeowner has three different new herbicides and there
no more glyphosate. They took it out, but the three
new herbicides that are in there also changed the restrictions
on the label. So as you're using this new Roundup
Weed and Grass Killer four Exclusive formula, it has different restrictions.
(28:10):
So after using it, you have to wait at least
a day before you plant any flowers annuals, seven days
at least before you plan any grass or grass seed,
two weeks for replanting deciduous trees and shrubs, and thirty
days before replanting evergreen trees and shrubs after spraying that
(28:33):
on the soil. So it's a different formula than what
the old Roundup used to be, so make sure you
check the label. If you still like the glyphosate and
you still want to use that fertil homes Kills All,
fertilome kills ALL is still the glyphisate. It still is
available for you to use, but again read the label,
follow the instructions and make sure you read the round
up label to make sure is what you are looking
(28:55):
for and it is a new formula. Quick break, We
come back. We've got a book to look at. Guide
the Raised Bed Gardening by Gardner Scott. Great interview, great
book here on news radio six ten WTVN.
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