September 13, 2024 • 41 mins
Like this episode? Check out the full podcast at:
https://www.iheart.com/podcast/1119-hungry-for-history-with-e-102809913/
Eva and Maite dive into the history of street vending and explore the backstory of the taco. Rudy Espinoza, executive director of Inclusive Action for the City, joins the show to share how his organization helps street vendors in Los Angeles. Plus, Hungry For History visits the Piñata District in Downtown LA to talk to Merced Sanchez, an activist and entrepreneur.
Want to learn more about Inclusive Action for the City? Click here.
Books discussed in this episode:
Planet Taco: A Global History of Mexican Food, Jeffery Pilcher
Los Angeles Street Food: A History from Tamaleros to Taco Trucks, Farley Elliott
Food, Health, and Culture in Latino Los Angeles, Sarah Portnoy
See omnystudio.com/listener for privacy information.
https://www.iheart.com/podcast/1119-hungry-for-history-with-e-102809913/
Eva and Maite dive into the history of street vending and explore the backstory of the taco. Rudy Espinoza, executive director of Inclusive Action for the City, joins the show to share how his organization helps street vendors in Los Angeles. Plus, Hungry For History visits the Piñata District in Downtown LA to talk to Merced Sanchez, an activist and entrepreneur.
Want to learn more about Inclusive Action for the City? Click here.
Books discussed in this episode:
Planet Taco: A Global History of Mexican Food, Jeffery Pilcher
Los Angeles Street Food: A History from Tamaleros to Taco Trucks, Farley Elliott
Food, Health, and Culture in Latino Los Angeles, Sarah Portnoy
See omnystudio.com/listener for privacy information.
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Transcript
Episode Transcript
Available transcripts are automatically generated. Complete accuracy is not guaranteed.
Speaker 1 (00:00):
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Speaker 7 (02:00):
Did you know that street vending in Mexico has pre
Columbian roots and primarily took place in market places or tiangis.
So everything from ceramic cookware, cacao, vanilla, eggs, clothes, all
of it was sold, and one of the most popular
items was tacos.
Speaker 8 (02:17):
In today's episode, we explore the history of becos and
street vending.
Speaker 7 (02:25):
My name is Eva Longoria and I am My de
Gomez Racon and welcome to Hungry for History, a podcast
that explores our past and present through food.
Speaker 8 (02:35):
On every episode, we'll talk about the history of some
of our favorite dishes, ingredients, and beverages.
Speaker 7 (02:41):
So make yourself at home. Ewen Britchel. So they weren't
always called tacos. I thought fuckos were always called tacos.
Speaker 8 (02:53):
No, they weren't always called tacos. So the concept of
a taco has existed for hundreds, maybe thousands of years,
but its exact origins are unknown. Some say that the
mere act of rolling food in adrtilla makes it a taco,
but the word bacco is actually relatively new.
Speaker 7 (03:15):
So where did the taco originate? Like, where does the
word come from?
Speaker 9 (03:19):
So?
Speaker 8 (03:19):
According to food historian Jeffrey Pilcher, he wrote a book
called Planet Taco, a Global History of Mexican Food. He
suggests that the word bacco dates to the nineteenth century
and it first appears in the real Academiespaniola, the Official
Dictionary of the Spanish language, defined as a little like
a peg or a plug. Another theory is that the
(03:40):
word taco comes from the naulalco, meaning half, because the
ingredients are put in a taco in the center of
a dortilla, which is then folded in half.
Speaker 7 (03:50):
That makes more sense to me. The nowad word. It
could be that glaco, I mean that sounds I mean claco,
sounds like taco, and it means half.
Speaker 8 (03:59):
But the other thing is that those those little pegs
or plugs. Miners in Mexico used to put these little
pegs with dynamite inside or with gunpowder inside. They would
roll them and they would put them in the mines.
They're basically little sticks of dynamite. So those were called tacos.
So this whole idea, and some of the first you know,
(04:19):
written recordings of faco were that coos e minero minors tacos.
So it was sort of like this little bit of
dynamite that you're eating. So so that that's why there
are those two different theories. But the word itself dates
to the nineteenth century, so it's not that old.
Speaker 7 (04:37):
Yeah, because because there's writings of Spanish conquistadores like Bernaldiez
del Castillo who mentions warm corn tortillas on mochte Zuma's table,
so you know it was discussed and that the tortillas
were used as sort of a spoon. But that technique
of using like tortillas as a spoon, that's also in
like I said, in India, where they use the non
(05:00):
as a spoon. I mean, there's a lot of cultures
that use a piece of something as a spoon, exactly. Exactly.
Speaker 8 (05:07):
Every culture has something, right, and every culture has something
that you you know, every street food, it's sort of
things that you eat with your hands as well. But
some can say that a taco, you know, that the
soul of the taco is the corn trtilla or the tortillya.
But the original tortillya, the original taco would have been
with corn.
Speaker 1 (05:27):
Yeah.
Speaker 7 (05:28):
And then so in the early nineteenth century, a lot
of people began migrating to Mexico City, you know, for
opportunities or region, bringing their regional cooking skills with them.
But every region obviously has different foods in Mexico City
became a melting pot of tacos. And I've experienced this
because there's a taco a mercado on Saturdays near our
(05:50):
house in Mexico City, and you have Mitua tacos from
Mitua Kan that goes the Yucatan that goes it. Like
there's all these different stalls and every region is so different.
Speaker 8 (06:02):
That is what's so interesting I feel about Mexico City
is that that it's such a melting pot of cuisines
from the entire country. And this is where I mean
you could say that the original tacco culture is in
these markets like the one that you're mentioning. You know
today one of the most famous pre colonial Tiangeese is
(06:23):
this marketplace of laate Logo that was in you know,
modern day sort of downtown Mexico City. But these danges
are are all over like you have one by your
house in Mexico City. So this is this this culture
of street food, this culture of street food from all
over the country has existed since the nineteenth century.
Speaker 7 (06:44):
D'angi means what is that nawadl as well Tiangi.
Speaker 8 (06:47):
Yes, the word tiang Geese comes from the Nawall word
Getzli with two words from the now ill word getzli
which means open air market and the amiki, which means
to say or trained. So the most important markets pre
colonial market was the one that's like and you could
(07:08):
say that they are modern day flea markets or modern
day boy gas, modern day you know where you people
come and sell everything from food to clothes to cook wear,
everything that you could possibly find. But that was really
the soul of Mexico when everybody would come together and buy.
Speaker 9 (07:28):
What they needed.
Speaker 8 (07:38):
One could argue that the Pinata district in downtown Los
Angeles is a modern day Tianges.
Speaker 7 (07:51):
Yeah, I've been there and I love it, and I'm
so excited because Hungary for History got a chance to
talk to one of these vendors in the Pinnata district.
Her name is merced Sanchmi numbers Sanchez, so evenante. She
is not only a businesswoman, but she's also an activist.
She is originally from the city of Puebla in Mexico
and she's.
Speaker 8 (08:12):
Been working at the Pineta district for about eighteen years.
Mendo and she sells everything from baby clothes, artists and
bags from Puebla. She sells Mexican candies. She sells hot
dogs and chi la las mole esquitoes, and she has
(08:32):
the most amazing paccos dorados. She has chicken ones and
potato ones. I have the tacos Papa Crispy, just she's
frying them right there with his green salsa, like raw fresh,
bright green salsa and a little bit of caeso fresco.
Speaker 10 (08:50):
Oh my god.
Speaker 7 (08:51):
Even this topic of street vendors is so relevant today
because so many food venders are getting harassed by the
cops by community. And one of the main reasons she
got into activism was because she witnessed food vendors getting
(09:14):
harassed by the cops and she saw their food get
thrown out, items that they had for sale get confiscated.
Yos Yoviya Madris. She said she even witnessed people getting deported,
like single mothers crying after having their shops destroyed.
Speaker 8 (09:31):
Yeah, it's really really devastating it. And she was sort
of seeing this happening around her, seeing it happening, you know,
to her as well, just being harassed for for just
trying to make a living. So she told us that
she started asking questions like what what can I do,
like what can be done on a who you that?
(09:55):
And a friend of her told her about an organization
that was trying to help them, and that when she
found out about eLAC, which is the East LA Community
Corporation based in Boyle Heights and East LA.
Speaker 7 (10:07):
Yeah, like communisposo misicos.
Speaker 1 (10:10):
Oh.
Speaker 11 (10:10):
Yes.
Speaker 7 (10:10):
So with the help of others, she started organizing and
she made a promise to herself. She said, I don't
care if this takes me twenty years, I'm going to
do it. Her husband even told her, like, who's going
to listen, You're just wasting your time, and she told him,
at least I'll have my head held high knowing I
did something because people don't know how much we are suffering.
Is Latona?
Speaker 1 (10:30):
Sure?
Speaker 8 (10:31):
It's really incredible, and you know, her hard work paid off.
It took ten years. It didn't take the twenty years,
but it took ten years, and in twenty eighteen, the
state passed a law legalizing sidewalk thens. Wow.
Speaker 7 (10:43):
Because of her hard work, got bravo to her.
Speaker 8 (10:46):
Yes, she's incredible. Thanks to her hard work, and she
was organizing people. When she went to that first meeting
at eLAC, there were seven street vendors, and she realized,
there's no way that we're going to make a dent
if it's just seven of us. So she was going
from vendor to vendor to vendor, spreading the word. It's
like you do you know when it's time to vow.
(11:07):
She was going to every until she had hundreds of vendors.
They went to Sacramento and I mean they got these
last past Wow.
Speaker 7 (11:14):
Well, if y'all are in Los Angeles, make sure to
check her out in the Pinnata district. It's called Sammy's
Lotmas stop by and try the don't go anywhere.
Speaker 8 (11:33):
We get into the history of street ending in La
and the modern day struggle of this community is facing.
Speaker 1 (11:42):
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Speaker 2 (12:43):
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as our vice president. She fights for women's reproductive rights
every day.
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Speaker 7 (14:17):
So winded street vending in Los Angeles begin it must
have been I mean, this must have been so long ago.
Speaker 11 (14:23):
It was.
Speaker 8 (14:24):
So the city of La was established in seventeen eighty one,
so long ago, but not that long ago. But so
Mexico lost California in eighteen forty eight in the Mexican
American War.
Speaker 7 (14:38):
The entire southwest California, Arizona, New Mexico, Nevada, Utahs, tex.
Speaker 8 (14:43):
Yeah six, yes, yeah, So by eighteen fifty California was
part of the US. But La was only seventy years
old at the time. So it went from being this
little Mexican pueblo to a city with an Anglo majority
in a very short period of time. In his book
(15:05):
Los Angeles Street Food History From Tamaleedos to Taco Trucks
by Farley Elliott, he says that the first signs of
street food in La emerge after eighteen seventy six, when
the Southern Pacific Railroad linked the city to the rest
of the US and the city really began to come
to life. So we start seeing them male vendors, so
(15:26):
not necessarily bacco vendors, but we started seeing that male
vendors selling from carts, from the little wagons in what
is now downtown Los Angeles.
Speaker 7 (15:36):
Well, and it's so interesting like at this time, like
by the eighteen nineties, there was already the city government
was already trying to sanction or severely limited and curb
the mal vendors, Chinese food vendors. They were really restricting
them from being able to sell or banishing it all together,
which obviously was reflected a larger issue of discrimination towards Mexican, Mexican, American,
(16:00):
Chinese any other, right, any other. So there was a
lot of early efforts to regulate street food, and by
the turn of the century, the city forced the mild
cart owners to pay for operating licenses as a way
to like weed them out, and this only helped destigmatize
the market for tamales, but it didn't slow it down,
Like Mexican food was just too popular.
Speaker 14 (16:22):
They were like people wanted their tamales. Yeah, people wanted
their tamalis. People wanted the really good food. It was
just you know, it was it was all about discriminating them.
So in nineteen ten.
Speaker 8 (16:35):
These segregation laws between white and non white vendors limited
the presence of Mexican and Chinese vendors in downtown La
so they continued to thrive outside of the downtown area.
But over time we start seeing these you know, sit
down restaurants, and these sit down restaurants would further marginalized
street vendors. But with each new wave of immigrants came
(16:59):
a new wave of street vending, you know, the re
birth of street vends.
Speaker 7 (17:04):
Well, specifically the wave of Mexicans, you know, by the
nineteen twenties that migrated to the US during the years
obviously the Mexican Revolution having a big part of that,
but the tradition of like street vending is one that's
that travels with them, and so we start seeing more
than tamales. By this time, we start seeing the buckles
and you know that they were all the rage in La,
(17:25):
but like you see a lot of vendors. I the
first time I moved to La, My greatest memory is
Olvera Street. I love Olivetta Street. I went to a
festival down there and I was like, what is this place?
And Olvetta Street is one of the oldest streets, opened
in nineteen thirty and there's so much history down there
(17:48):
to who could own the stalls. And if you look
at Olvetta Street you'll see it's an alley and the
storefronts are on the other side. And what happened was
Mexicans worn't allowed to own a storefront in the nineteen thirties,
so they could sell in the back in the alley,
but they couldn't have a storefront, and the alley became
more popular than the storefront. And that's how Old Retis
(18:11):
Street became an icon and really a heritage site of
Los Angeles. It's protected, it's celebrated now. So it's a
very I level litterstry. If you guys have a chance,
go check it out.
Speaker 8 (18:26):
It's a very cool, very very cool place.
Speaker 9 (18:29):
I love it too.
Speaker 8 (18:30):
And so in her book, in the book Food, Health
and Culture and Latino Los Angeles by professor of LATINX
Food Studies Sarah Portnoy, she says that in the mid
nineteen thirties, Los Angeles band vending on sidewalks downtown and
then in major business districts, and she goes on to
say that these actions restricted sidewalk activity and made sidewik
(18:54):
vending more challenging. During the course of the twentieth century,
then La became a car city. Pedestrians and vendors were
pushed off the sidewalks and the streets lost this former
vibrancy and commerce.
Speaker 7 (19:09):
So this that's why La is a driving city. Like
we're not New York, We're not York. No, it's not
a pedestrian city at all. And it's so sad.
Speaker 8 (19:20):
And so this hostility towards street vendors grew and persisted
for decades.
Speaker 7 (19:27):
Yeah. Well, you know, it's so funny because you know,
if you have ever flown into lax, there's a Tom
Bradley Terminal and it's the International Terminal. And I've always like, oh,
why is the name Tom Bradley, Like I didn't really
understand why they were like, no, he was a really
good mayor. And in the seventies, the La City Council
voted to ban sidewalk vending throughout the city. But it
(19:49):
was Tom Bradley who was the mayor that vetoed the
ordinance because he knew it would affect poor people and
he thought it was really important to encourage creating small
businesses and and you know, giving poor people some economic mobility.
I mean, despite this, sidewalk vending was officially made illegal
in nineteen eighty and at the time, you know, street
(20:10):
food was banned, But then there was a spike in
migration and a demand for this cultural food again by
this wave of new immigrants, and so a lot of
times vendors were seen as criminals and a lot were
arrested and beaten and served jail time. The band basically
turned vending into this political issue, and it motivated street
vendors to organize themselves, and so a lot of I mean,
(20:33):
I think a lot of organizations were formed. But in
nineteen eighty seven they began meeting and they established the
Association of Street Vendors ABA Bultes. It turned into a
political issue because street vending really bumps up against immigration policies,
police harassment, human rights issues, and so in nineteen ninety four,
(20:57):
the Special Sidewalk Vending District Ordnance was enacted to allow
selling in eight areas of Los Angeles as part of
this like pilot program. Even though they did this, they
were still like continuous harassment by the LAPD, and you know,
so the vendors continued to protest, and you know, a
(21:19):
lot of this still continues today.
Speaker 8 (21:21):
This pilot program was in the nineties. In between twenty
ten and twenty nineteen, police arrested over forty three thousand
people for legal sidewalk vending, but there's an estimated ten
to twelve thousand street food vendors in LA selling everything
from bacon wrap, hot dogs, t case eti, yas, thut,
galls fruit all over Los Angeles, you know, and you wonder, like,
(21:45):
why do they continue to do this despite risking fines,
police harassment, and even imprisonment. Most of them are documented
and have very few employment alternatives, and they need to
provide for their family in street ending offers them this
economic mobility. I mean, they are these incredible entrepreneurs.
Speaker 3 (22:07):
I mean, they do so much.
Speaker 7 (22:09):
I mean, and street bending is technically legal in Los
Angeles now, but all the vendors say the permit is
so out of reach because it's either too expensive, you know,
the process to get one is super deterring from getting one,
and so they still have a lot of a lot
of challenges and I think, you know, operating without a
(22:32):
permit is sometimes the only option because they have to
make a living.
Speaker 8 (22:37):
LA City Council a proof to measure to decriminalize street bending.
So that was twenty eighteen, and this was with the
Safe Sidewalk Vending Act called SB ninety six and then
in twenty twenty two, s B nine seventy two was passed,
and this attempted, you know, to facilitate greater access to
(22:58):
food vendors, but like you said, some of these permits
are just impossible.
Speaker 7 (23:15):
Hungry. First, we got a chance to talk to the
executive director of Inclusion Action, Rudy Haspin, also to talk
to us about what his organization is doing to support
the street vendor movement.
Speaker 8 (23:30):
Tell us who you are and how your organization helps
support the street vendor.
Speaker 7 (23:36):
Movement in Los Angeles.
Speaker 9 (23:38):
Sure, my name is Rudy. I serve as the executive
director of Inclusive Action for the city. Inclusive Action is
an economic justice organization that really focuses on getting capital
into the hands of people that haven't had it before.
We're a certified financial institution. We're a community development financial institution,
so a big piece of the work that we can
(24:00):
uels we provide micro loans and business coaching to entrepreneurs
that include street vendors but also breaking mortar businesses. And
we also have a division to focus on policy advocacy
and we prioritize that because we know to reach economic
justice we have to address the systems that have caused
income inequality in our city, in our country, and so
(24:21):
as part of that advocacy work, one of the campaigns
we've worked on over the last decade is the effort
to legalize stream vending. We're one of the co founders
of the La Street Vendor Campaign and then the most
recent California Street Vendor Campaign.
Speaker 8 (24:34):
What is happening right now within the street vendors or
among the street vendors that you think people should be
most aware of.
Speaker 9 (24:41):
I think that people should know that street vendors have
been struggling for many, many years, decades even to be
included formally in our economy. This has been even beyond
our work. There's been many people in other generations that
have worked on trying to legalize stream vending in Los Angeles.
And what I want people to know is that there's
a history here that's beyond many of us, and I
(25:04):
want folks to know that in the last few years
that there have been great strides forward due to the
work of the coalition and streat vendor leaders in our city.
Starting in twenty sixteen, we began to pass policies in
Los Angeles and in California that have created pathways for
street vendors to finally get permits. In twenty eighteen, Senate
(25:27):
Build nine forty six pass that was championed by then
Senator Ricarolada that decriminalized sidewalk venting throughout the state of
California and asked cities to create systems for sidewalk vendors.
And in this past year we passed Senate Built nineteen
seventy two with Cena Arena Gonzalez, they changed the Retail
Food Code to support street food vendors that were having
a hard time getting public health permits. So people should
(25:50):
know that there's these new laws in place that the
entire state of California is getting adjusted to, and so
folks should be optimistic, but we also should be really
vigilant because just because we pass this laws doesn't mean
that everything's amazing now. Now, our focus is really about
making sure these laws are implemented properly. And so we
(26:10):
just have this big passage this past year for street
food vendors, but the county health departments about the state
of California and cities have to learn what this law
is about and how to implement it. Properly. And so
that's the work. The work continues on for all advocates
is to make sure that we're holding our cities accountable
to these new regulations.
Speaker 7 (26:38):
So what can one do to help?
Speaker 9 (26:40):
Mike that you you're hosting a podcast, and I think
we need people like you that are elevating stories. We
need people that are designers that are thinking differently about
how we design our cities and how do we design
you know, virtual environments for people to tell stories. We
need activists, we need community organizers, we need lawmakers. So
my ask to friends that say that they want to
get involved is to consider what is your gift and
(27:02):
what's your skill and how can you contribute that skill
to a coalition. And so once you identify how you
want to help, I would say get plugged in. There's
a lot of amazing activists out here in organizations that
are doing really great work. If you're interested in microfinance,
you have inclusive Action. If you're interested in community organizing,
you have organizations like Community Power Collective and cheat Lab
(27:25):
that are focused on immigr rights. If you're a lawyer,
we work with an amazing team of public counsel to
provide free legal services to street vendors and other businesses.
And so there's there's so many ways to get plugged in.
And so what I tell people is like find your
skill and then think about who are try to learn
about the organizations that are already doing work, and just
(27:46):
you know, you know, get and get involved with them.
They need your help.
Speaker 8 (27:49):
Buying from them as well, just on that scale.
Speaker 9 (27:54):
But then also and tip them and tip them, yeah, totally,
and tip them. And I think, you know, the one
third thing that I want to tell folks that are
listening is the role of our lawmakers. Our lawmakers are
dealing with a variety of priorities and maybe in competing priorities.
Here in LA we have a huge housing crisis, for example,
and homelessness is a huge priority for all of us,
(28:15):
or it should be. And I think that if somebody
cares about street vendors or small businesses or food entrepreneurs,
we have to make sure those lawmakers hear from us,
and they often probably they probably don't. So the more
that any constituent calls their local city council member or
their state senator, their assembly roner says hey, this is
(28:36):
where I live, you represent me. I'm really concerned about
the street vendor on the corner here, and I want
to make sure that they have what they need. What
are you doing about that? Once we ask questions to
our elected leaders, it plans to seed in their mind
that they need to work on that. And unfortunately, in
the early days of the campaign, when we were asking
leaders to step up, they would say, nobody's complaining about this,
(29:00):
so why should I prioritize this. Nobody's saying anything about
street vendors. And so the more we call and engage,
the better. There's a lot of amazing folks on social
media now that are showing telling stories or covering the
harassment the vendors are facing. Those are all things that
contribute to lawmakers paying attention.
Speaker 8 (29:27):
If there was one word to describe the people that
work at street vendors, what would.
Speaker 9 (29:32):
That word to be. I'm sorry, I'm kind of pausing
because I'm a little bit I'm a little sort of
moved by the question I'm thinking about an entrepreneur that
I just got a slack on it for my colleague.
My colleague about my word is visionary And the comment
(29:53):
that I got in our organizational chat is one of
our borrowers who had a mobile as a mobile vendor.
They came to us years ago and they were like
barely breaking even with their business, and they applied for
a loan and they wanted to basically buy out the
(30:13):
loan that they had on their little hitch truck on
a little trailer that was connected to their pickup truck,
and they were trying to figure it out. They're like,
we work hard, and like I were cooking for people
and I'm just not making it work. And so I
just got a note of like how well they're doing now.
It's like three or four years later and they sold
that mobile facility, and I think that they're opening up
(30:34):
a brick and mortar now and it's like they're doing well.
And I think the entrepreneurs in our city, in our
communities are visionary people that in the face of so
many obstacles for their family, they're saying, I'm not going
to give up. I'm still going to get out here.
I'm going to be on the public right away on
the sidewalk. That's scary to put yourself out there. Think
(30:55):
about the vulnerability that's required, and they're saying, I'm going
to continue to strike go because I see I I
envisioned something better, and man, how can we not support them?
You know?
Speaker 1 (31:07):
That is what I think.
Speaker 9 (31:08):
So visionary is my work with them.
Speaker 8 (31:10):
That is beautiful.
Speaker 7 (31:11):
Thank you so much, Rudy, don't go anywhere, hungry for
history will be right back.
Speaker 1 (31:26):
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I thought we were going to Grandma's.
Speaker 13 (33:01):
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Speaker 7 (34:06):
So I think this is a dumb question. When did
tacos become popular in LA because I feel like in
the founding of LA it must be in the constitution.
Speaker 8 (34:15):
Now, well, by the thirties that that goes were you know,
it's just the wave of immigrants for Mexico that we're
bringing their foods with them. And by the nineteen thirties
that goes We're super popular in Los Angeles, from trucks
to sidewalk set up.
Speaker 7 (34:32):
And it's funny, Yeah, it's funny that you say trucks
because you know, the taco truck is like the famous thing. Actually,
food trucks in general were birthed out of street vendors, right,
and so you gourmet these gourmet food trucks now and
it's almost a bit of a gentrification right of any
(34:52):
migrant food because all most of the street vendors is
immigrant food. And now you have, you know, these very
popular food trucks and food truck festivals, right like I mean,
and these these trucks are like decked out and for
some reason that's okay, right, that's accepted, that's supplotted and embraced.
(35:14):
But you know, if you look at sidewalk setups, it's like.
Speaker 8 (35:18):
Yeah, they don't have the trucks don't have the stigma,
you know, because they were the original the loncetas. They
were the damad vendor from the turn of the century
became the Lonza and you would see them parked. You
still see them sort of when they were construction workers,
(35:39):
so they're parked outside. You still have the ones that
are not all you know, made for hipsters, that are
for Mexican Mexinican American construction workers, so you still see them,
but now there are so many. I think it started
I would say, what like around two thousand and seven
or eight with the with the Kim Chica SETI yeah,
(36:00):
as a Roy Troy, the Koji Taco truck. And then
with the rise of social media, places like East Los
Angeles starting to become gentrified, like you said so, and
then with social media you have the truck saying I'm
going to be here, I'm going to be there, So
it kind of went hand in hand. And now the
food trucks they still face a struggle, not as much
(36:20):
as the street vendors, but now they're they're super hip.
I mean the Mariscos Carliscos, which is one of my
favorite trucks in the city. Food trucks in the city.
The late Jonathan Gold featured them in the list of
one hundred and one best restaurants in LA. It's a
truck and it's not a hipster truck. It's just a
really good truck. They have the best trimp tacos in
the city.
Speaker 7 (36:40):
What's your favorite kind of taco? Oh my, I love tacos.
Speaker 8 (36:45):
I think I have me too.
Speaker 7 (36:47):
I do. Oh god, I'm a big Tacos Alastor fan.
You know why because they're the most similar to Mexico,
like the Mexico City tacos that I have. I can
have them in East LA and it's pretty much the same.
Mm They're consistent across borders. They're so good.
Speaker 8 (37:08):
There's a truck called there are two places where I
get my tacos al pasto fixed in La Leos Tacos
they're all over yeah, and then there's one I don't
know what it's called, but it's across the street from
Lows on Pico Boulevard with just the pineapple and lime
juice and some radish.
Speaker 7 (37:26):
That's my Yeah, I like for I like the pineapple,
onions and cilantro. So what is for you? What's the
soul of the taco, the tortilla or the filling? What
I'm the it's the filling. The tortilla is the same.
Speaker 8 (37:40):
No, because if you don't have a really good tortilla,
then like if you take you pick up a taco
and the falls.
Speaker 7 (37:46):
Apart, you're right, You're right, You're right, You're right. Yeah,
you've ruined the experience, right yeah. Yeah. Also also you're
right because my chicken tacos pepped loves because mine are
America American eyed, because mine's not the taco bell taco.
But it's not the just heat the tortilla, the corn tortilla.
Speaker 4 (38:06):
Up.
Speaker 7 (38:06):
I fry the corn tortilla. So it's I has to
be taco when I wasn't.
Speaker 8 (38:11):
When I met you, in Spain.
Speaker 7 (38:12):
You made them. They were incredible. Yeah, it's increding of
the tortilla. So you're right. I actually have to agree
with you. Tortilla's pretty well. I think it's fifty to
fifty then, but I actually think it's I think it's
thirty three thirty three thirty three because this alsa makes
a big difference.
Speaker 8 (38:26):
To the sasa makes a huge difference. And the fresh
lime juice. I feel like I can't have a taco
without squeezing some.
Speaker 3 (38:32):
Lime on it.
Speaker 1 (38:32):
Yeah.
Speaker 7 (38:33):
Well, if anybody has seen my Searching for Mexico Mexico
City episode, we did a taco tour in Mexico City
and there's so like you said, Mexico City is really
the melting pot of all the tacos of the country.
And I went with the taco blogger and it was
like she knew exactly where to go. The guy that's
(38:54):
there that makes the the sweating tacos, what is.
Speaker 8 (38:57):
It that a canassa?
Speaker 7 (38:59):
Yeah, yes, which was I've never had one. I never
had one either, And he had three different ones and
they were hot and warm, and he'd been there all
morning and he brought this all this stuff from his
house and I'm like, surely this is going to be
like eh, because you know it's two hours old or whatever. Nope,
(39:20):
it was. They were still warm, warm, and delicious, and
he had these different salsas. And oh man, do you
know that.
Speaker 8 (39:27):
One of the earliest photographs of a tacko from now
than nineteen twenties is a woman selling those tacos a canasta.
So basically they put the tacos in a basket and
then cover it with like some sort of.
Speaker 7 (39:40):
Plastic and they know theyver with towels and they don't
get soggy. They're super soft, and that's why it's a
good tortilla, because it doesn't fall apart. We hope you
guys enjoyed this episode. I know I did. I'm actually
super hungry now. I think I'm going to make myself
some chicken tacoos.
Speaker 8 (40:01):
Thank you all for listening.
Speaker 7 (40:08):
Hungry for History is an unbelievable entertainment production in partnership
with Iheart'smi Kultura podcast network.
Speaker 8 (40:15):
For more of your favorite shows, visit the iHeartRadio app,
Apple Podcasts, or wherever you get your podcasts.
Speaker 15 (40:22):
Yes Ala mihente rosa insantchiz here from he said adado
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Also, when you're raised by an immigrant mother, you learn
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And the termination is how gamala hair is when.
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From working in McDonald's to prosecutor state attorney general, you
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Speaker 7 (02:00):
Did you know that street vending in Mexico has pre
Columbian roots and primarily took place in market places or tiangis.
So everything from ceramic cookware, cacao, vanilla, eggs, clothes, all
of it was sold, and one of the most popular
items was tacos.
Speaker 8 (02:17):
In today's episode, we explore the history of becos and
street vending.
Speaker 7 (02:25):
My name is Eva Longoria and I am My de
Gomez Racon and welcome to Hungry for History, a podcast
that explores our past and present through food.
Speaker 8 (02:35):
On every episode, we'll talk about the history of some
of our favorite dishes, ingredients, and beverages.
Speaker 7 (02:41):
So make yourself at home. Ewen Britchel. So they weren't
always called tacos. I thought fuckos were always called tacos.
Speaker 8 (02:53):
No, they weren't always called tacos. So the concept of
a taco has existed for hundreds, maybe thousands of years,
but its exact origins are unknown. Some say that the
mere act of rolling food in adrtilla makes it a taco,
but the word bacco is actually relatively new.
Speaker 7 (03:15):
So where did the taco originate? Like, where does the
word come from?
Speaker 9 (03:19):
So?
Speaker 8 (03:19):
According to food historian Jeffrey Pilcher, he wrote a book
called Planet Taco, a Global History of Mexican Food. He
suggests that the word bacco dates to the nineteenth century
and it first appears in the real Academiespaniola, the Official
Dictionary of the Spanish language, defined as a little like
a peg or a plug. Another theory is that the
(03:40):
word taco comes from the naulalco, meaning half, because the
ingredients are put in a taco in the center of
a dortilla, which is then folded in half.
Speaker 7 (03:50):
That makes more sense to me. The nowad word. It
could be that glaco, I mean that sounds I mean claco,
sounds like taco, and it means half.
Speaker 8 (03:59):
But the other thing is that those those little pegs
or plugs. Miners in Mexico used to put these little
pegs with dynamite inside or with gunpowder inside. They would
roll them and they would put them in the mines.
They're basically little sticks of dynamite. So those were called tacos.
So this whole idea, and some of the first you know,
(04:19):
written recordings of faco were that coos e minero minors tacos.
So it was sort of like this little bit of
dynamite that you're eating. So so that that's why there
are those two different theories. But the word itself dates
to the nineteenth century, so it's not that old.
Speaker 7 (04:37):
Yeah, because because there's writings of Spanish conquistadores like Bernaldiez
del Castillo who mentions warm corn tortillas on mochte Zuma's table,
so you know it was discussed and that the tortillas
were used as sort of a spoon. But that technique
of using like tortillas as a spoon, that's also in
like I said, in India, where they use the non
(05:00):
as a spoon. I mean, there's a lot of cultures
that use a piece of something as a spoon, exactly. Exactly.
Speaker 8 (05:07):
Every culture has something, right, and every culture has something
that you you know, every street food, it's sort of
things that you eat with your hands as well. But
some can say that a taco, you know, that the
soul of the taco is the corn trtilla or the tortillya.
But the original tortillya, the original taco would have been
with corn.
Speaker 1 (05:27):
Yeah.
Speaker 7 (05:28):
And then so in the early nineteenth century, a lot
of people began migrating to Mexico City, you know, for
opportunities or region, bringing their regional cooking skills with them.
But every region obviously has different foods in Mexico City
became a melting pot of tacos. And I've experienced this
because there's a taco a mercado on Saturdays near our
(05:50):
house in Mexico City, and you have Mitua tacos from
Mitua Kan that goes the Yucatan that goes it. Like
there's all these different stalls and every region is so different.
Speaker 8 (06:02):
That is what's so interesting I feel about Mexico City
is that that it's such a melting pot of cuisines
from the entire country. And this is where I mean
you could say that the original tacco culture is in
these markets like the one that you're mentioning. You know
today one of the most famous pre colonial Tiangeese is
(06:23):
this marketplace of laate Logo that was in you know,
modern day sort of downtown Mexico City. But these danges
are are all over like you have one by your
house in Mexico City. So this is this this culture
of street food, this culture of street food from all
over the country has existed since the nineteenth century.
Speaker 7 (06:44):
D'angi means what is that nawadl as well Tiangi.
Speaker 8 (06:47):
Yes, the word tiang Geese comes from the Nawall word
Getzli with two words from the now ill word getzli
which means open air market and the amiki, which means
to say or trained. So the most important markets pre
colonial market was the one that's like and you could
(07:08):
say that they are modern day flea markets or modern
day boy gas, modern day you know where you people
come and sell everything from food to clothes to cook wear,
everything that you could possibly find. But that was really
the soul of Mexico when everybody would come together and buy.
Speaker 9 (07:28):
What they needed.
Speaker 8 (07:38):
One could argue that the Pinata district in downtown Los
Angeles is a modern day Tianges.
Speaker 7 (07:51):
Yeah, I've been there and I love it, and I'm
so excited because Hungary for History got a chance to
talk to one of these vendors in the Pinnata district.
Her name is merced Sanchmi numbers Sanchez, so evenante. She
is not only a businesswoman, but she's also an activist.
She is originally from the city of Puebla in Mexico
and she's.
Speaker 8 (08:12):
Been working at the Pineta district for about eighteen years.
Mendo and she sells everything from baby clothes, artists and
bags from Puebla. She sells Mexican candies. She sells hot
dogs and chi la las mole esquitoes, and she has
(08:32):
the most amazing paccos dorados. She has chicken ones and
potato ones. I have the tacos Papa Crispy, just she's
frying them right there with his green salsa, like raw fresh,
bright green salsa and a little bit of caeso fresco.
Speaker 10 (08:50):
Oh my god.
Speaker 7 (08:51):
Even this topic of street vendors is so relevant today
because so many food venders are getting harassed by the
cops by community. And one of the main reasons she
got into activism was because she witnessed food vendors getting
(09:14):
harassed by the cops and she saw their food get
thrown out, items that they had for sale get confiscated.
Yos Yoviya Madris. She said she even witnessed people getting deported,
like single mothers crying after having their shops destroyed.
Speaker 8 (09:31):
Yeah, it's really really devastating it. And she was sort
of seeing this happening around her, seeing it happening, you know,
to her as well, just being harassed for for just
trying to make a living. So she told us that
she started asking questions like what what can I do,
like what can be done on a who you that?
(09:55):
And a friend of her told her about an organization
that was trying to help them, and that when she
found out about eLAC, which is the East LA Community
Corporation based in Boyle Heights and East LA.
Speaker 7 (10:07):
Yeah, like communisposo misicos.
Speaker 1 (10:10):
Oh.
Speaker 11 (10:10):
Yes.
Speaker 7 (10:10):
So with the help of others, she started organizing and
she made a promise to herself. She said, I don't
care if this takes me twenty years, I'm going to
do it. Her husband even told her, like, who's going
to listen, You're just wasting your time, and she told him,
at least I'll have my head held high knowing I
did something because people don't know how much we are suffering.
Is Latona?
Speaker 1 (10:30):
Sure?
Speaker 8 (10:31):
It's really incredible, and you know, her hard work paid off.
It took ten years. It didn't take the twenty years,
but it took ten years, and in twenty eighteen, the
state passed a law legalizing sidewalk thens. Wow.
Speaker 7 (10:43):
Because of her hard work, got bravo to her.
Speaker 8 (10:46):
Yes, she's incredible. Thanks to her hard work, and she
was organizing people. When she went to that first meeting
at eLAC, there were seven street vendors, and she realized,
there's no way that we're going to make a dent
if it's just seven of us. So she was going
from vendor to vendor to vendor, spreading the word. It's
like you do you know when it's time to vow.
(11:07):
She was going to every until she had hundreds of vendors.
They went to Sacramento and I mean they got these
last past Wow.
Speaker 7 (11:14):
Well, if y'all are in Los Angeles, make sure to
check her out in the Pinnata district. It's called Sammy's
Lotmas stop by and try the don't go anywhere.
Speaker 8 (11:33):
We get into the history of street ending in La
and the modern day struggle of this community is facing.
Speaker 1 (11:42):
Compierre tod Into the DraftKings Usal Coligo, Michael Tura Yanoda
de umlasoa usl coligo, My cultura pta igana doc does
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Socer.
Speaker 2 (12:43):
When you're raised by an immigrant mother, you learn what's
possible with the termination.
Speaker 3 (12:48):
And the termination is how Kamala Harris went from.
Speaker 2 (12:51):
Working in McDonald's to prosecutor State Attorney General, you as senator,
as our vice president. She fights for women's reproductive rights
every day.
Speaker 4 (13:02):
And she beat the pharmaceutical companies to lower costs for
insulin and prescriptions.
Speaker 2 (13:06):
Because she knows twen we fights, weave.
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Kids, We're going to T mobile.
Speaker 3 (13:15):
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Speaker 13 (13:17):
Nope, we're switching to T mobile. We're getting four five
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and if you pay off devices early.
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Cetmobile dot com.
Speaker 7 (14:17):
So winded street vending in Los Angeles begin it must
have been I mean, this must have been so long ago.
Speaker 11 (14:23):
It was.
Speaker 8 (14:24):
So the city of La was established in seventeen eighty one,
so long ago, but not that long ago. But so
Mexico lost California in eighteen forty eight in the Mexican
American War.
Speaker 7 (14:38):
The entire southwest California, Arizona, New Mexico, Nevada, Utahs, tex.
Speaker 8 (14:43):
Yeah six, yes, yeah, So by eighteen fifty California was
part of the US. But La was only seventy years
old at the time. So it went from being this
little Mexican pueblo to a city with an Anglo majority
in a very short period of time. In his book
(15:05):
Los Angeles Street Food History From Tamaleedos to Taco Trucks
by Farley Elliott, he says that the first signs of
street food in La emerge after eighteen seventy six, when
the Southern Pacific Railroad linked the city to the rest
of the US and the city really began to come
to life. So we start seeing them male vendors, so
(15:26):
not necessarily bacco vendors, but we started seeing that male
vendors selling from carts, from the little wagons in what
is now downtown Los Angeles.
Speaker 7 (15:36):
Well, and it's so interesting like at this time, like
by the eighteen nineties, there was already the city government
was already trying to sanction or severely limited and curb
the mal vendors, Chinese food vendors. They were really restricting
them from being able to sell or banishing it all together,
which obviously was reflected a larger issue of discrimination towards Mexican, Mexican, American,
(16:00):
Chinese any other, right, any other. So there was a
lot of early efforts to regulate street food, and by
the turn of the century, the city forced the mild
cart owners to pay for operating licenses as a way
to like weed them out, and this only helped destigmatize
the market for tamales, but it didn't slow it down,
Like Mexican food was just too popular.
Speaker 14 (16:22):
They were like people wanted their tamales. Yeah, people wanted
their tamalis. People wanted the really good food. It was
just you know, it was it was all about discriminating them.
So in nineteen ten.
Speaker 8 (16:35):
These segregation laws between white and non white vendors limited
the presence of Mexican and Chinese vendors in downtown La
so they continued to thrive outside of the downtown area.
But over time we start seeing these you know, sit
down restaurants, and these sit down restaurants would further marginalized
street vendors. But with each new wave of immigrants came
(16:59):
a new wave of street vending, you know, the re
birth of street vends.
Speaker 7 (17:04):
Well, specifically the wave of Mexicans, you know, by the
nineteen twenties that migrated to the US during the years
obviously the Mexican Revolution having a big part of that,
but the tradition of like street vending is one that's
that travels with them, and so we start seeing more
than tamales. By this time, we start seeing the buckles
and you know that they were all the rage in La,
(17:25):
but like you see a lot of vendors. I the
first time I moved to La, My greatest memory is
Olvera Street. I love Olivetta Street. I went to a
festival down there and I was like, what is this place?
And Olvetta Street is one of the oldest streets, opened
in nineteen thirty and there's so much history down there
(17:48):
to who could own the stalls. And if you look
at Olvetta Street you'll see it's an alley and the
storefronts are on the other side. And what happened was
Mexicans worn't allowed to own a storefront in the nineteen thirties,
so they could sell in the back in the alley,
but they couldn't have a storefront, and the alley became
more popular than the storefront. And that's how Old Retis
(18:11):
Street became an icon and really a heritage site of
Los Angeles. It's protected, it's celebrated now. So it's a
very I level litterstry. If you guys have a chance,
go check it out.
Speaker 8 (18:26):
It's a very cool, very very cool place.
Speaker 9 (18:29):
I love it too.
Speaker 8 (18:30):
And so in her book, in the book Food, Health
and Culture and Latino Los Angeles by professor of LATINX
Food Studies Sarah Portnoy, she says that in the mid
nineteen thirties, Los Angeles band vending on sidewalks downtown and
then in major business districts, and she goes on to
say that these actions restricted sidewalk activity and made sidewik
(18:54):
vending more challenging. During the course of the twentieth century,
then La became a car city. Pedestrians and vendors were
pushed off the sidewalks and the streets lost this former
vibrancy and commerce.
Speaker 7 (19:09):
So this that's why La is a driving city. Like
we're not New York, We're not York. No, it's not
a pedestrian city at all. And it's so sad.
Speaker 8 (19:20):
And so this hostility towards street vendors grew and persisted
for decades.
Speaker 7 (19:27):
Yeah. Well, you know, it's so funny because you know,
if you have ever flown into lax, there's a Tom
Bradley Terminal and it's the International Terminal. And I've always like, oh,
why is the name Tom Bradley, Like I didn't really
understand why they were like, no, he was a really
good mayor. And in the seventies, the La City Council
voted to ban sidewalk vending throughout the city. But it
(19:49):
was Tom Bradley who was the mayor that vetoed the
ordinance because he knew it would affect poor people and
he thought it was really important to encourage creating small
businesses and and you know, giving poor people some economic mobility.
I mean, despite this, sidewalk vending was officially made illegal
in nineteen eighty and at the time, you know, street
(20:10):
food was banned, But then there was a spike in
migration and a demand for this cultural food again by
this wave of new immigrants, and so a lot of
times vendors were seen as criminals and a lot were
arrested and beaten and served jail time. The band basically
turned vending into this political issue, and it motivated street
vendors to organize themselves, and so a lot of I mean,
(20:33):
I think a lot of organizations were formed. But in
nineteen eighty seven they began meeting and they established the
Association of Street Vendors ABA Bultes. It turned into a
political issue because street vending really bumps up against immigration policies,
police harassment, human rights issues, and so in nineteen ninety four,
(20:57):
the Special Sidewalk Vending District Ordnance was enacted to allow
selling in eight areas of Los Angeles as part of
this like pilot program. Even though they did this, they
were still like continuous harassment by the LAPD, and you know,
so the vendors continued to protest, and you know, a
(21:19):
lot of this still continues today.
Speaker 8 (21:21):
This pilot program was in the nineties. In between twenty
ten and twenty nineteen, police arrested over forty three thousand
people for legal sidewalk vending, but there's an estimated ten
to twelve thousand street food vendors in LA selling everything
from bacon wrap, hot dogs, t case eti, yas, thut,
galls fruit all over Los Angeles, you know, and you wonder, like,
(21:45):
why do they continue to do this despite risking fines,
police harassment, and even imprisonment. Most of them are documented
and have very few employment alternatives, and they need to
provide for their family in street ending offers them this
economic mobility. I mean, they are these incredible entrepreneurs.
Speaker 3 (22:07):
I mean, they do so much.
Speaker 7 (22:09):
I mean, and street bending is technically legal in Los
Angeles now, but all the vendors say the permit is
so out of reach because it's either too expensive, you know,
the process to get one is super deterring from getting one,
and so they still have a lot of a lot
of challenges and I think, you know, operating without a
(22:32):
permit is sometimes the only option because they have to
make a living.
Speaker 8 (22:37):
LA City Council a proof to measure to decriminalize street bending.
So that was twenty eighteen, and this was with the
Safe Sidewalk Vending Act called SB ninety six and then
in twenty twenty two, s B nine seventy two was passed,
and this attempted, you know, to facilitate greater access to
(22:58):
food vendors, but like you said, some of these permits
are just impossible.
Speaker 7 (23:15):
Hungry. First, we got a chance to talk to the
executive director of Inclusion Action, Rudy Haspin, also to talk
to us about what his organization is doing to support
the street vendor movement.
Speaker 8 (23:30):
Tell us who you are and how your organization helps
support the street vendor.
Speaker 7 (23:36):
Movement in Los Angeles.
Speaker 9 (23:38):
Sure, my name is Rudy. I serve as the executive
director of Inclusive Action for the city. Inclusive Action is
an economic justice organization that really focuses on getting capital
into the hands of people that haven't had it before.
We're a certified financial institution. We're a community development financial institution,
so a big piece of the work that we can
(24:00):
uels we provide micro loans and business coaching to entrepreneurs
that include street vendors but also breaking mortar businesses. And
we also have a division to focus on policy advocacy
and we prioritize that because we know to reach economic
justice we have to address the systems that have caused
income inequality in our city, in our country, and so
(24:21):
as part of that advocacy work, one of the campaigns
we've worked on over the last decade is the effort
to legalize stream vending. We're one of the co founders
of the La Street Vendor Campaign and then the most
recent California Street Vendor Campaign.
Speaker 8 (24:34):
What is happening right now within the street vendors or
among the street vendors that you think people should be
most aware of.
Speaker 9 (24:41):
I think that people should know that street vendors have
been struggling for many, many years, decades even to be
included formally in our economy. This has been even beyond
our work. There's been many people in other generations that
have worked on trying to legalize stream vending in Los Angeles.
And what I want people to know is that there's
a history here that's beyond many of us, and I
(25:04):
want folks to know that in the last few years
that there have been great strides forward due to the
work of the coalition and streat vendor leaders in our city.
Starting in twenty sixteen, we began to pass policies in
Los Angeles and in California that have created pathways for
street vendors to finally get permits. In twenty eighteen, Senate
(25:27):
Build nine forty six pass that was championed by then
Senator Ricarolada that decriminalized sidewalk venting throughout the state of
California and asked cities to create systems for sidewalk vendors.
And in this past year we passed Senate Built nineteen
seventy two with Cena Arena Gonzalez, they changed the Retail
Food Code to support street food vendors that were having
a hard time getting public health permits. So people should
(25:50):
know that there's these new laws in place that the
entire state of California is getting adjusted to, and so
folks should be optimistic, but we also should be really
vigilant because just because we pass this laws doesn't mean
that everything's amazing now. Now, our focus is really about
making sure these laws are implemented properly. And so we
(26:10):
just have this big passage this past year for street
food vendors, but the county health departments about the state
of California and cities have to learn what this law
is about and how to implement it. Properly. And so
that's the work. The work continues on for all advocates
is to make sure that we're holding our cities accountable
to these new regulations.
Speaker 7 (26:38):
So what can one do to help?
Speaker 9 (26:40):
Mike that you you're hosting a podcast, and I think
we need people like you that are elevating stories. We
need people that are designers that are thinking differently about
how we design our cities and how do we design
you know, virtual environments for people to tell stories. We
need activists, we need community organizers, we need lawmakers. So
my ask to friends that say that they want to
get involved is to consider what is your gift and
(27:02):
what's your skill and how can you contribute that skill
to a coalition. And so once you identify how you
want to help, I would say get plugged in. There's
a lot of amazing activists out here in organizations that
are doing really great work. If you're interested in microfinance,
you have inclusive Action. If you're interested in community organizing,
you have organizations like Community Power Collective and cheat Lab
(27:25):
that are focused on immigr rights. If you're a lawyer,
we work with an amazing team of public counsel to
provide free legal services to street vendors and other businesses.
And so there's there's so many ways to get plugged in.
And so what I tell people is like find your
skill and then think about who are try to learn
about the organizations that are already doing work, and just
(27:46):
you know, you know, get and get involved with them.
They need your help.
Speaker 8 (27:49):
Buying from them as well, just on that scale.
Speaker 9 (27:54):
But then also and tip them and tip them, yeah, totally,
and tip them. And I think, you know, the one
third thing that I want to tell folks that are
listening is the role of our lawmakers. Our lawmakers are
dealing with a variety of priorities and maybe in competing priorities.
Here in LA we have a huge housing crisis, for example,
and homelessness is a huge priority for all of us,
(28:15):
or it should be. And I think that if somebody
cares about street vendors or small businesses or food entrepreneurs,
we have to make sure those lawmakers hear from us,
and they often probably they probably don't. So the more
that any constituent calls their local city council member or
their state senator, their assembly roner says hey, this is
(28:36):
where I live, you represent me. I'm really concerned about
the street vendor on the corner here, and I want
to make sure that they have what they need. What
are you doing about that? Once we ask questions to
our elected leaders, it plans to seed in their mind
that they need to work on that. And unfortunately, in
the early days of the campaign, when we were asking
leaders to step up, they would say, nobody's complaining about this,
(29:00):
so why should I prioritize this. Nobody's saying anything about
street vendors. And so the more we call and engage,
the better. There's a lot of amazing folks on social
media now that are showing telling stories or covering the
harassment the vendors are facing. Those are all things that
contribute to lawmakers paying attention.
Speaker 8 (29:27):
If there was one word to describe the people that
work at street vendors, what would.
Speaker 9 (29:32):
That word to be. I'm sorry, I'm kind of pausing
because I'm a little bit I'm a little sort of
moved by the question I'm thinking about an entrepreneur that
I just got a slack on it for my colleague.
My colleague about my word is visionary And the comment
(29:53):
that I got in our organizational chat is one of
our borrowers who had a mobile as a mobile vendor.
They came to us years ago and they were like
barely breaking even with their business, and they applied for
a loan and they wanted to basically buy out the
(30:13):
loan that they had on their little hitch truck on
a little trailer that was connected to their pickup truck,
and they were trying to figure it out. They're like,
we work hard, and like I were cooking for people
and I'm just not making it work. And so I
just got a note of like how well they're doing now.
It's like three or four years later and they sold
that mobile facility, and I think that they're opening up
(30:34):
a brick and mortar now and it's like they're doing well.
And I think the entrepreneurs in our city, in our
communities are visionary people that in the face of so
many obstacles for their family, they're saying, I'm not going
to give up. I'm still going to get out here.
I'm going to be on the public right away on
the sidewalk. That's scary to put yourself out there. Think
(30:55):
about the vulnerability that's required, and they're saying, I'm going
to continue to strike go because I see I I
envisioned something better, and man, how can we not support them?
You know?
Speaker 1 (31:07):
That is what I think.
Speaker 9 (31:08):
So visionary is my work with them.
Speaker 8 (31:10):
That is beautiful.
Speaker 7 (31:11):
Thank you so much, Rudy, don't go anywhere, hungry for
history will be right back.
Speaker 1 (31:26):
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Speaker 13 (33:01):
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Speaker 12 (33:06):
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Speaker 11 (33:09):
Can I get a pink one?
Speaker 2 (33:10):
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for twenty five bucks per life a month? Way?
Speaker 12 (33:16):
Does that mean I get a bigger allowance?
Speaker 13 (33:19):
So that's a lot of questions, but yes, yes, absolutely,
and probably not.
Speaker 9 (33:25):
You spit up.
Speaker 10 (33:27):
Get four or five G phones on US and four
lines for twenty five dollars aligned per month when you
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if you pay off devices early seetmobile dot com.
Speaker 7 (34:06):
So I think this is a dumb question. When did
tacos become popular in LA because I feel like in
the founding of LA it must be in the constitution.
Speaker 8 (34:15):
Now, well, by the thirties that that goes were you know,
it's just the wave of immigrants for Mexico that we're
bringing their foods with them. And by the nineteen thirties
that goes We're super popular in Los Angeles, from trucks
to sidewalk set up.
Speaker 7 (34:32):
And it's funny, Yeah, it's funny that you say trucks
because you know, the taco truck is like the famous thing. Actually,
food trucks in general were birthed out of street vendors, right,
and so you gourmet these gourmet food trucks now and
it's almost a bit of a gentrification right of any
(34:52):
migrant food because all most of the street vendors is
immigrant food. And now you have, you know, these very
popular food trucks and food truck festivals, right like I mean,
and these these trucks are like decked out and for
some reason that's okay, right, that's accepted, that's supplotted and embraced.
(35:14):
But you know, if you look at sidewalk setups, it's like.
Speaker 8 (35:18):
Yeah, they don't have the trucks don't have the stigma,
you know, because they were the original the loncetas. They
were the damad vendor from the turn of the century
became the Lonza and you would see them parked. You
still see them sort of when they were construction workers,
(35:39):
so they're parked outside. You still have the ones that
are not all you know, made for hipsters, that are
for Mexican Mexinican American construction workers, so you still see them,
but now there are so many. I think it started
I would say, what like around two thousand and seven
or eight with the with the Kim Chica SETI yeah,
(36:00):
as a Roy Troy, the Koji Taco truck. And then
with the rise of social media, places like East Los
Angeles starting to become gentrified, like you said so, and
then with social media you have the truck saying I'm
going to be here, I'm going to be there, So
it kind of went hand in hand. And now the
food trucks they still face a struggle, not as much
(36:20):
as the street vendors, but now they're they're super hip.
I mean the Mariscos Carliscos, which is one of my
favorite trucks in the city. Food trucks in the city.
The late Jonathan Gold featured them in the list of
one hundred and one best restaurants in LA. It's a
truck and it's not a hipster truck. It's just a
really good truck. They have the best trimp tacos in
the city.
Speaker 7 (36:40):
What's your favorite kind of taco? Oh my, I love tacos.
Speaker 8 (36:45):
I think I have me too.
Speaker 7 (36:47):
I do. Oh god, I'm a big Tacos Alastor fan.
You know why because they're the most similar to Mexico,
like the Mexico City tacos that I have. I can
have them in East LA and it's pretty much the same.
Mm They're consistent across borders. They're so good.
Speaker 8 (37:08):
There's a truck called there are two places where I
get my tacos al pasto fixed in La Leos Tacos
they're all over yeah, and then there's one I don't
know what it's called, but it's across the street from
Lows on Pico Boulevard with just the pineapple and lime
juice and some radish.
Speaker 7 (37:26):
That's my Yeah, I like for I like the pineapple,
onions and cilantro. So what is for you? What's the
soul of the taco, the tortilla or the filling? What
I'm the it's the filling. The tortilla is the same.
Speaker 8 (37:40):
No, because if you don't have a really good tortilla,
then like if you take you pick up a taco
and the falls.
Speaker 7 (37:46):
Apart, you're right, You're right, You're right, You're right. Yeah,
you've ruined the experience, right yeah. Yeah. Also also you're
right because my chicken tacos pepped loves because mine are
America American eyed, because mine's not the taco bell taco.
But it's not the just heat the tortilla, the corn tortilla.
Speaker 4 (38:06):
Up.
Speaker 7 (38:06):
I fry the corn tortilla. So it's I has to
be taco when I wasn't.
Speaker 8 (38:11):
When I met you, in Spain.
Speaker 7 (38:12):
You made them. They were incredible. Yeah, it's increding of
the tortilla. So you're right. I actually have to agree
with you. Tortilla's pretty well. I think it's fifty to
fifty then, but I actually think it's I think it's
thirty three thirty three thirty three because this alsa makes
a big difference.
Speaker 8 (38:26):
To the sasa makes a huge difference. And the fresh
lime juice. I feel like I can't have a taco
without squeezing some.
Speaker 3 (38:32):
Lime on it.
Speaker 1 (38:32):
Yeah.
Speaker 7 (38:33):
Well, if anybody has seen my Searching for Mexico Mexico
City episode, we did a taco tour in Mexico City
and there's so like you said, Mexico City is really
the melting pot of all the tacos of the country.
And I went with the taco blogger and it was
like she knew exactly where to go. The guy that's
(38:54):
there that makes the the sweating tacos, what is.
Speaker 8 (38:57):
It that a canassa?
Speaker 7 (38:59):
Yeah, yes, which was I've never had one. I never
had one either, And he had three different ones and
they were hot and warm, and he'd been there all
morning and he brought this all this stuff from his
house and I'm like, surely this is going to be
like eh, because you know it's two hours old or whatever. Nope,
(39:20):
it was. They were still warm, warm, and delicious, and
he had these different salsas. And oh man, do you
know that.
Speaker 8 (39:27):
One of the earliest photographs of a tacko from now
than nineteen twenties is a woman selling those tacos a canasta.
So basically they put the tacos in a basket and
then cover it with like some sort of.
Speaker 7 (39:40):
Plastic and they know theyver with towels and they don't
get soggy. They're super soft, and that's why it's a
good tortilla, because it doesn't fall apart. We hope you
guys enjoyed this episode. I know I did. I'm actually
super hungry now. I think I'm going to make myself
some chicken tacoos.
Speaker 8 (40:01):
Thank you all for listening.
Speaker 7 (40:08):
Hungry for History is an unbelievable entertainment production in partnership
with Iheart'smi Kultura podcast network.
Speaker 8 (40:15):
For more of your favorite shows, visit the iHeartRadio app,
Apple Podcasts, or wherever you get your podcasts.
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If you've ever wanted to know about champagne, satanism, the Stonewall Uprising, chaos theory, LSD, El Nino, true crime and Rosa Parks, then look no further. Josh and Chuck have you covered.
Dateline NBC
Current and classic episodes, featuring compelling true-crime mysteries, powerful documentaries and in-depth investigations. Follow now to get the latest episodes of Dateline NBC completely free, or subscribe to Dateline Premium for ad-free listening and exclusive bonus content: DatelinePremium.com
On Purpose with Jay Shetty
I’m Jay Shetty host of On Purpose the worlds #1 Mental Health podcast and I’m so grateful you found us. I started this podcast 5 years ago to invite you into conversations and workshops that are designed to help make you happier, healthier and more healed. I believe that when you (yes you) feel seen, heard and understood you’re able to deal with relationship struggles, work challenges and life’s ups and downs with more ease and grace. I interview experts, celebrities, thought leaders and athletes so that we can grow our mindset, build better habits and uncover a side of them we’ve never seen before. New episodes every Monday and Friday. Your support means the world to me and I don’t take it for granted — click the follow button and leave a review to help us spread the love with On Purpose. I can’t wait for you to listen to your first or 500th episode!