This is why I do this. Jeansland is a podcast about the ecosystem in which jeans live. There are an estimated 26 million cotton farmers around the world, and about 25% of their production goes into jeans, which could mean 6.2 million farmers depend on denim. I read estimates that at least 1 million people work in retail selling jeans, and another 1.5 to 2 million sew them. And then there are all the label producers, pattern makers, laundries, chemical companies, machinery producers, and those that work in denim mills. I mean, the jeans industry, which is bigger than the global movie and music business combined, employs a lot of human beings. And many of them, like me, love jeans. The French philosopher and existentialist Simone de Beauvoir, when visiting New York, said, "Everyone in the New York subway is a novel." I never met her, but I guess she made the observation because of the incredible diversity of people who ride the subway system. I'm convinced the people in our jeans industry are like those in the subway. They are unique, with rich and complex stories to tell, and I want to hear them. And deep inside me, I think you might feel the same way. https://jeansland.co/
What happens when the system collapses, and you decide to build something meaningful with your hands?
In this episode of Jeansland, Andrew sits down with Pete Roberts, founder of Origin, the American brand making jeans, boots, and apparel entirely on U.S. soil. After the 2008 recession upended his life and wiped out his business, Pete was left with a timber-frame cabin in the woods of Maine, two young kids, and no clear way forward...
In this powerful two-part conversation, Andrew Olah welcomes back Umer Farooq Qureshi for a deep dive into the structural imbalances plaguing the denim supply chain. Framed by the enduring legacy of colonial capitalism, the discussion explores how suppliers have been conditioned to act like beggars in pursuit of orders — and how that mindset must shift. Together, they challenge conventional wisdom on pricing, power, partnerships, a...
In this powerful two-part conversation, Andrew Olah welcomes back Umer Farooq Qureshi for a deep dive into the structural imbalances plaguing the denim supply chain. Framed by the enduring legacy of colonial capitalism, the discussion explores how suppliers have been conditioned to act like beggars in pursuit of orders — and how that mindset must shift. Together, they challenge conventional wisdom on pricing, power, partnerships, a...
What if sustainability wasn’t a competitive edge — but the baseline for the entire denim industry? Andrew sits down with sustainability expert Roian Atwood to unpack the urgent challenges and overlooked opportunities shaping denim’s future.
Roian is a seasoned business leader and sustainability practitioner who’s spent over two decades improving the social and environmental performance of products and supply chains. A former global ...
Designer and brand consultant Johnny Diamandis joins Andrew Olah to explore what it truly takes to build a fashion brand today. With a globally successful track record designing menswear, accessories, and more for brands like Evisu, Burberry London, Nike, Fake London, and CAT Footwear, Johnny shares candid insights from both industry and academia. The conversation covers the financial realities of launching a brand, storytelling, d...
In this episode, cotton expert Tim North discusses global cotton production, trade dynamics, and government support programs in key countries like the U.S., India, China, and Pakistan. He highlights how subsidies distort markets, why some traditional exporters have become importers, and the challenges facing producers.
The conversation also covers the rise of regenerative and traceable cotton as scalable, sustainable alternatives to...
Andrew and Umer Farooq Qureshi pull back the denim curtain to reveal Levi’s jaw-dropping 62% margin is built on supplier suffering. From closed-door biddings to so-called partnerships, from collapsing currencies to cotton politics, this episode shows exactly how the kings (brands) are bleeding the commoners (factories) dry, and what happens when the commoners stop playing nice. This isn’t just a talk about jeans. It’s about fairnes...
In this solo episode, Andrew returns from a whirlwind week—first as a guest at the Kingpin Show in Amsterdam, his first time attending since selling the business, and then at a high-level diplomatic event in Washington, D.C.—to share unfiltered reflections on industry dynamics, global economic shifts, and the rising impact of U.S. tariffs. From the importance of venue vibes to why group negotiations could save the supply chain, thi...
This edition covers ground close to my heart because it's about discovery, it's about feeling, and about the heart in business. I get to talk to Peter Caplowe, who was not in the jeans business in 1994 but went to Japan, discovered Evis, or Evisu, the Japanese brand that had a domestic cult following, super expensive 1940s Levi replications with hand painted back pockets, that Mr. Yamane the creator and owner, painted him...
Anatt Finkler, an enthusiastic member of the denim industry from Mexico who finds joy not just from her work but in education and sustainability.
Learn more about Anatt’s professional journey: https://www.linkedin.com/in/anatt-f-70229181/
Ethical Denim Council is a non-profit organization whose sole mission is to help create order sanctity. Simply put, we want an agreement from buyers that place orders to simply agree to carry out their commitments, just as they expect the supplier to carry out theirs. Seems simple enough, but it’s not part of our industry. YET.
Sharmon Lebby – Project Manager, Ethical Denim Council
Chana Rosenthal – Denim Industry Advocacy Advisor, E...
Bob Antoshak calls himself an Industry Strategist and Policy Expert. I call him an experienced, industry professional having spent chunks of his life on trade policy, cotton marketing, consultancy, and sourcing. Bob’s been where must people never get to.
Bob's LinkedIn profile: https://www.linkedin.com/in/rantoshak/
Adriano Goldschmied is an example for anyone in the denim industry or who aspires to be in it. He is incredibly creative, full of energy day and night, uncommonly hard working and perpetually passionate about his work.
Adriano Goldschmied is an example for anyone in the denim industry or who aspires to be in it. He is incredibly creative, full of energy day and night, uncommonly hard working and perpetually passionate about his work.
See his projects here:
This man’s driving force is to inspire people in our industry and that in itself makes him and his work special.
Long John website: www.long-john.nl
His dream was to work for Levi’s and his dream came true, and much more. Stefano is one of the rare individuals that knows design, marketing, and social media. All-rounded is not that common!
Find Stefano at: anotherdesignstudio.com
If you want to know about the cotton industry in Pakistan, which is rather important, Imran is the expert.
Opening a denim laundry in London England, of all places, is both auspicious and brave. It's taken Salli a lot of effort to get this done --- combined with lots of love.
Steven's company, Bank & Vogue, sounds like something run out of Gotham Hall but it's run out of Ottawa and it's about the greenest thing there is in our fashion industry.
Some people buy denim, some people know about denim, but Paolo builds denim mills. He knows about everything one can know. He is a one-of-a-kind, or at minimum, a very special denim person.
Website: www.itetex.com
Instagram: @ite_indigo_taste_experience
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