September 3, 2025 • 30 mins
Dive into a fascinating collection of letters penned by the early pioneers of Victoria, addressing the Lieutenant-Governor Charles Joseph La Trobe in response to his circular dated July 29, 1853. These correspondences provide a glimpse into the early days of the colony, its interactions with the Aboriginal community, and the perspectives of those who shaped its history. While these letters offer valuable insights, they are not without their flaws; as noted in the preface, they cannot be deemed infallible records of our past. The series concludes with a unique compilation of Aboriginal words and phrases gathered by a dedicated woman, which, though their accuracy may be uncertain, stands as a testament to her commitment to preserving cultural heritage. Remember, the views expressed in these letters reflect the sentiments of the time and may not necessarily align with modern perspectives. (Annise)
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Speaker 1 (00:00):
Section fifty six of Letters from Victorian Pioneers. This is
a LibriVox recording. All LibriVox recordings are in the public domain.
For more information or to volunteer, please visit LibriVox dott,
a work recording by NIMA Letters from Victorian Pioneers, Letter
(00:28):
number fifty six, Part one from Gellibrand's memorandum of a
trip to Port Philip, Sunday, January seventeenth, eighteen thirty six.
I embarked this morning with my son Tom on board
the Norval for Port Philip, in company with mister William Robertson,
(00:50):
mister Gardiner, mister Leakey, mister Malcolm and mister Moody, the
latter gentleman having the management of the sheep on board
the property of Captain Swanston. After making Point Grant, we
encountered a severe gale of wind from the northwest, and
(01:11):
the vessel lay two for three nights and two days
under close reef topsails. The vessel drifted about seventy or
eighty miles to the southeast, and on Sunday morning, January
twenty fourth, at daylight, the ship was again off Point
Grant and bearing up to the westward of Cape Shank
(01:32):
and distant about twenty miles. In consequence of the improper
manner in which the vessel was fitted up for the stock,
about one hundred and fifteen sheep perished by injuries and
suffocation during the gale, and the day afterwards the greater
portion of the hay had been destroyed in consequence of
(01:53):
there not being any proper racks, and on Saturday the
twenty third, the passengers were under the necessity of assisting
mister Moody and feeding the sheep with flour and water.
The captain stated that he should not be able to
make Port Philip without two or three tacks, and even
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if he succeeded in getting into Port Philip that evening,
it would most probably take him two days to reach
the settlement. And he also stated that the ship was
under demerge at ten pound per day and would be
so until she came to Anchor Western Port, where she
was engaged to taking cargo of bark for the owner.
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Under these circumstances and feeling convinced that if a change
of wind took place and the vessel was again driven
from the land, the sheep must perish, and there not
being any means of even keeping them alive for three days,
and believing that the sheep could be landed at Sandy
Point that day, the passengers were unanimously of opinion that
(02:57):
it would be for the interest of the charterers to
proceed at once to Western Port, land the stock and
drive the sheep across to the settlement to Port Philip.
The captain, then, at the request of mister Moody, made
Western Port, and about twelve o'clock the vessel came to
anchor near Sandy Point. About one the captain, mister Moody,
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mister Robertson, mister Gardener, mister Leaky, and my son Tom
proceeded to the shore for the purpose of selecting a
proper place to land the sheep. I remained on board
for the purpose of getting a long boat out and
the sheep ready for disembarkation. In about three hours, the
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boat returned and the party stated that it was impossible
to land sheep as there was nothing but heath and
scrub and no appearance of water. A person of the
name of Tom was on board the vessel for the
purpose of acting as pielt to Western Port and superintending
the shipment of the bark And, who was well acquainted
(04:06):
with Western Port. He represented that there was a beautiful
tract of land with plenty of water about ten miles
further up the bay and near to the government settlement
which had been abandoned in eighteen twenty seven. After some
deliberation and hesitation on the part of the captain, it
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was determined that a party should proceed at daylight to
Phillip Island to examine that station, and if we could
not find good land and water, to proceed at once
to the spot pointed out by mister Tom. January twenty
fifth went on shore daylight with mister Malcolm, mister Robertson
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and mister Moody to Phillip Island and returned in about
an hour, finding the island totally unfit for the purpose required.
Vessel immediately under way and proceeded to the spot pointed
out by mister Tom and came to anchor within a
quarter of a mile from shore about nine o'clock in
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the morning. The long and other boats were immediately loaded
with sheep and mister Moody, mister Gardener, mister Leaky, mister Malcolm,
Tom and myself and two shepherds went to shore with
the first boat. Mister Robertson stayed on board for the
purpose of superintending the sheep, and it was arranged that
(05:33):
mister Moody and the shepherds should wait on the beach
and receive them, and that the others should examine the
tract of land and decide upon the most eligible spot
as a temporary settlement. When the sheep were landed, they
endeavored to drink salt water and were inclined to wander,
as sheep always do in a strange place. They were
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landed upon a point of land with abundance of grass
and three hundred acres of land, and might be enclosed
by a line of one hundred and fifty yards. When
I landed, I particularly cautioned the shepherds not to let
the sheep stray, and to keep them from salt water.
We then proceeded to examine the land and found abundance
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of grass, and in some places it was six feet high,
but we did not find any water, and passing through
one of the valleys, I found the gleams of heat
extremely oppressive, in which brought on violent palpitations and a
determination of blood to the head. We were then distant,
about three miles from the vessel. I walked back, supported
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by mister Gardener and mister Leakey, about one mile, but
was unable to proceed any further. I then lay down
under a tree. Tom and mister Leakey, remaining with me,
and mister Gardener and mister Malcolm, proceeded to the vessel
to procure assistance. They returned in two hours with a boat,
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and I reached the vessel about three o'clock and found
all the sheep, amounting to one thousand and nine, had
been landed. In the evening, mister Robertson, mister Leeky and
mister Gardiner went ashore and found the shepherds near the point,
and that the sheep had strayed away. They went in
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search of them and brought back to the point about
eight hundred, which they placed in charge of the three
shepherds who were then on shore. January twenty sixth mister
Robertson and the other gentlemen went on shore at daylight
and found that the shepherds, instead of being stationed back
(07:41):
in the bush so as to keep the sheep on
the neck, had in fact wholly neglected their duty and
had slept at the extreme point on the beach close
to the vessel, and on searching for the sheep, only
two or three, which were in a dying state, could
be found. The Tlomen then proceeded in search of the sheep,
(08:02):
returned about eleven o'clock to the ship to breakfast, having
walked about fifteen miles in a fruitless search after the sheep.
Mister Robertson, having found from mister Tom that there was
a fine river about nine miles from the point, was
extremely anxious to proceed in search of the sheep as
far as the river, under the expectation of finding them,
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and mister Tom promising to meet them in the evening
with a long boat near the mouth of the river.
The Captain and my son left the vessel about the
same time, proceeded along the beach on the other side
of the point and as far as the late settlement.
The captain and Tom found the tracks of sheep along
(08:47):
the beach, at about two miles from the landing place,
a muddy saltwater creek, and the carcasses of about two
hundred and eighty sheep in and near the creek. Mister
Robertson and the others reached the vessel about eleven o'clock
at night. They had been unsuccessful in their search. They
were worn out with fatigue and anxiety. Mister Moody went
(09:11):
into violent hysterics. Mister Robertson and mister Leaky were both
taken exceedingly ill, and in fact nature appeared quite exhausted.
January twenty seventh. We this morning took into consideration our
own situation in what course should be pursued. Having suffered
(09:33):
from the heat on Monday, I did not think it
proper to expose myself to the dangers of a journey
over land, and I intimated my intention of staying on
board until a better opportunity of proceeding either backwards or forwards,
presented itself. But finding that one or two of the
gentlemen would follow my example, and that the others would
(09:55):
proceed overland to Port Philip, and thinking the three or
four might be exposed to dangers which eight might prevent,
and knowing also the anxiety I should feel in the
uncertainty of their fate, I at length determined that we
should all proceed by the first opportunity to Port Philip.
(10:17):
We were all anxious However, before we quitted the vessel
to conclude some arrangement for the establishment of mister Moody
until we could send him assistance from Port Philip, And
as the late Government station appeared the most eligible for
that purpose on account of its situation and supply of water,
(10:38):
we proceeded this morning in the whale boat to that
station and made arrangements which appeared satisfactory to mister Moody,
who then determined to remove all his stores and also
the wives of the shepherds, out of the vessel and
fix his station there, so that we might direct a
party where to find him on our return the ship.
(11:01):
The party were all busily engaged in making arrangements for
the proposed journey, and I was busily employed in making
calamel pills in case any of the party should be
taken ill. This day was extremely sultry, and we were
waiting some hours in anxious expectation of the sea breeze,
as we were desirous of reaching Sandy Point that night
(11:24):
so that we might start upon our journey by daylight.
About five o'clock a slight breeze set in, and we
bid farewell to the norwhal Each person taking one bottle
of water, and trusting to Providence for such further supplies
as we might require, and our passage to Sandy Point.
Mister Gardner shot a swan and Tom another. We were
(11:48):
unable to reach Sandy Point before dark. At about three
quarters of a mile from our landing place, the boat
grounded on a sand bank with a rapid ebbing tide,
and we we remained aground, high and dry all night.
At daylight the tide was flowing, and in one and
a half hours the vessel was afloat, and about six
(12:10):
o'clock we landed and saw many tracks of the natives
upon the beach. We made a fire and roasted the
swans for breakfast, which proved very acceptable. And after having
remunerated mister Tom for his trouble, and obtained from him
a promise to return to the same spot on the
following Sunday in case we should be unable to accomplish
(12:34):
our purpose, mister Tom took his departure in the boat
and we commenced our journey twenty eighth. The party were
eight in number, all carried arms except myself, and all
knapsacks except Tom and myself. Mister r most kindly carried
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the greater portion of my provisions, and mister L the blankets,
and the remainder was carried by my shepherd. Mister G
was chosen conductor, and in case of any appearance of
the natives, the gentlemen were all pledged to act under
my direction. We pursued a course northwest and found the
(13:17):
country for the first three miles heath and low scrub.
We then got into a thin forest, and after we
had walked about nine miles, I felt the same effects
from the heat that I had experienced the previous Monday,
and in consequence the party halted in the forest. I
lay down for about two hours, and, finding the heat
(13:39):
very oppressive, I took three grains of calomel, and in
half an hour afterwards took another pill. Whilst we're in
the forest, mister L had exhausted his supply of water,
and at this time he was determined to leave us
in search of water. Accordingly, mister L and one of
the men left us and were absent upwards of one hour.
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We became much alarmed at their absence, but at length
heard a cooie and they returned with the intelligence that
they had fallen in with about one hundred native huts,
and near the huts had discovered water. We then packed
up our things and proceeded on our course, and about
a quarter of an hour came to a few water
(14:24):
holes surrounded with a thick scrub. The party dined at
this place, and although it was extremely hot, we remained
there till five o'clock under the shelter of a blanket
tent to protect us from the rays of the sun.
Having filled all our bottles with water, we then proceeded
on our journey, and, supposing the distance across to the
(14:47):
Bay of Port Philip to be only a few miles,
we were induced to hope we should reach the beach
that night. Several times we fancied we could discern the sea,
and we kept on walking till ten o'clock at night,
when we got into a piece of open scrub, and
thinking it safer to lie down in an open place,
we determined to stay there that night, and those who
(15:10):
had blankets spread them out and lay down to rest,
affording part to those who had none. We were too
tired either to make a fire or to eat. January
twenty ninth, we rose at daylight and proceeded on our
journey without any breakfast, under the hope of making the bay.
(15:32):
We came to two or three very scrubby places, but
without water, and at this time I do not think
there was a bottle of water amongst the whole party.
One or two of the gentlemen were of opinion that
we were making too much north, which prevented us from
reaching the bay, and as that seemed to be the
object of our desire, our course was altered a point
(15:55):
or two more west, and about eight o'clock in the
morning we came up on a saltwater creek which led
to Port Philip Bay. We found a fire burning in
two native huts and every appearance of their having been
occupied the previous night, and on the beach we found
tracts of natives. Proceeding towards Arthur's seat, we rested here
(16:18):
and made a fire. Some of the party proceeded in
search of water, which however, was very bractish. We had
our breakfast and consumed what little water was left. Two
bottles of the brackish water were boiled with tea in
the event of not finding better water. After resting at
this place about half an hour, we proceeded on our
(16:40):
journey about five miles and then discovered several native huts.
Into our great joying gratitude, found a creek with an
abundant supply of water. We rested at this place about
two hours, filled our bottles, and proceeded on our journey
about six miles and came to some more water holes
in native of huts. We dined at the spot, took
(17:03):
a fresh supply of water, and proceeded on our journey
and came to a tract of low scrubby land, upon
which we took to the beach and came to an
open sandy bay about thirty or forty miles long. We
continued walking till about six o'clock, when the weather became
squally and wet. We walked for about half an hour
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and had intended to do so till late at night,
but the rain increasing, we thought it most prudent to
get some shelter before it was dark. We then went
into the scrub and found a sheltered spot. We made
a blanket hut to protect us from the rain, with
a large fire in front. We soon found a large
quantity of blue ants on the ground, which we had
(17:47):
selected for our resting place. And I. Therefore, as it
was too late to move our tent, spread the ashes
all over the ground, which had the effect of driving
them away. It continued raining till about two o'clock, but
as we were lying on a sand bank, the rain
was all absorbed. Thirtieth January. We started this morning about
(18:10):
half an hour before daylight, and continued walking till eight
o'clock without finding any fresh water. We then rested and
had our breakfast and about half a pint of tea
to each person, which was all the water we had left,
and we then continued our journey, expecting at every turn
to the bay that we should discover the river. We
(18:31):
continued walking till twelve o'clock, when mister Leaky and Tom
lay down and declared they could not proceed any further
till they got water. We had now quitted the shore
and got upon high land again. After resting on the
hill about half an hour, I urged upon the party
to proceed, and after some difficulty, we were all on
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the march, but some of the party were a considerable
distance behind. We were now on a native track, and
the advantage of following those tracks is soon experienced. This
track continued along the margin of the hill and ultimately
led us to the beach, and near the beach we
found a few native huts and one native well. Upon
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discovering the well, mister G gave the welcome shout water,
which was immediately repeated by the others, and in a
few minutes the weary ones in a rear came rushing down,
anxious to quench their thirst, but by the time they
had reached the well, mister G reported the water to
be bad. Mister R, however, examined the well, and thinking
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that it had been choked up, he got a noise
to shell and cleaned it out and deepened it, expecting
that the fresh water would be good. The party were
now obliged to wait with much anxiety, watching the rising
of the water in the hole, and at length mister
R was enabled to distribute to each person half a pint,
and in about one one hour a second supply of
(20:01):
one point each was distributed for dinner, and we were
enabled when we quitted at four o'clock to take with
us three bottles of water. At four we continued our
course along the beach, mister Gardner and myself making the
first start, and in about ten minutes we saw a
dog on the beach advancing toward us at length. He
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stopped and ran back again and turned into the bush,
from which we concluded that the natives were at hand.
We waited till some of the party came up, and
then advanced and found on the beach part of a
boomer kangaroo, and we saw the tracks of several natives
on the beach, and several tracks of dogs. We fully
expected this night to reach the settlement, and we pushed
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on until seven o'clock. We then came to a point
which we fully expected would be the head of the river.
We crossed over the point and found a stack of
wattle bark and we also found the hut where the
barkers had lived, and the tracks of a cart. It
had been raining about three quarters of an hour, and
we were nearly wet through. We felt assured that we
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were near the settlement, and that the bark had been
obtained by mister Faulkner's party, but we could not see
the river. It was near night, and there was every
appearance of a wet night, and we therefore considered it
most prudent at once to make a blanket hut for
the night and make a fire before the bark and
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grass were too wet, in which we accordingly did. Two
of the party went in search of water holes, but
without success, and Tom went to the beach to shoot
a duck, and in about ten minutes he returned, having
found the water holes near the beach, and where we
again obtained an abundant supply of good water. This night
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was very wet and the most uncomfortable night we had
experienced thirty first January. Although we were satisfied that we
were near the settlement, we considered it most prudent to
keep the bay until we reached the river, and after
walking seven miles further, we at length discovered the mouth
(22:12):
of the river. My feet had been for the last
two days very much blistered, and I felt quite unable
to walk any further, and I therefore proposed that half
the party should proceed to the settlement and send a
boat to a horse. To my assistance, and mister Gardener,
mister Leaky, mister Malcolm, and Tom proceeded to the settlement.
(22:34):
I hobbled, along with the assistance of mister robertson about
three miles and then waited for the horse or boat
In about half an hour, a boat manned with blacks
came down the river. We hailed them, and after explaining
where we had come from and who we were, they
came to our assistance. We found they were going to
(22:57):
the heads to fish, but they immediately proceed with us
to the settlement, and we arrived there about twelve o'clock.
The settlement consists of about a dozen huts built with
turf on the left bank of the river Yari Yara.
The river from the mouth to the settlement is about
eight miles long. It is salked for about six The
(23:20):
first two miles it is about five hundred yards wide.
For the next three miles it is about three hundred yards.
It then becomes gradually narrower and is about sixty yards
wide at the settlement, with deep and precipitous banks and
vessels of sixty tons burthened can with safety proceed to
(23:40):
the settlement close to the shore and discharge a cargo.
As it was of importance that immediate assistance should be
rentered to mister Moody, I made arrangements with mister Batman
to dispatch on the next morning four Sydney natives who
it appeared were well acquainted with Westy to import, and who,
(24:02):
upon my questioning them, appeared also quite confident that they
would be able to find the sheep and bring them
to port. Philip I felt very much vexed on learning
that the natives, with the exception of two, had left
the settlement on a hunting expedition a few days previous,
and would not return for some time. First February I
(24:25):
had this morning a long conversation with Buckley, and explained
to him very fully the desire of the Association in
every respect to meet his views and to make him
superintendent over the native tribes, for the purpose of protecting
them from aggressions, and also of acting as an interpreter
(24:45):
in imparting to them not only the habits of civilization,
but also of communicating religious knowledge. It appears from his
statement that the tribes are most peaceably disposed, that they
fully underst stand the nature of the grants issued by them,
and that they are looking forward to the time when
the blankets, tomahawks and flower will be distributed. Buckley appears
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to be of a nervous and irritable disposition, and a
little thing will annoy him much. But this may arise
from the peculiar situation in which he has been placed
for so many years. I am quite satisfied that he
can only be acted upon by kindness and conciliation, and
that by those means he will be instrument in the
(25:31):
hands of Providence in working a great moral change upon
the Aborigines. He is not at all desirous of occupying
any land or having sheep, but is highly pleased at
the idea of being appointed superintendent of the natives, with
a fixed stipend, so that to use his own expression,
he may know what he has to depend upon, and
(25:54):
be enabled to make a few presents to his native friends.
I told him that I intended on the following day
to proceed to Geelong, and inquired whether he would not
like to visit his own country. He seemed much pleased
at the idea, but stated he did not think he
could walk so far. I then proposed he should ride,
(26:16):
which seemed to gratify him very much, and in consequence
I engaged a large cart horse of mister Faulkner's for
that purpose. My feet were so bad I could not walk,
and as I was desirous of seeing Number twelve, I
had my horse taken to the Fording place and round
to the Saltwater Creek. At about ten o'clock, mister G,
(26:40):
Mister R. Doctor Carter, myself and Lynnfield went in the
whale boat to the creek. I took Lynnfield with me
for the purpose of making him acquainted with that section,
as I intended to stock it. After passing over about
six miles of the section, we came upon a large
sala river, which Doctor Cotter was of opinion communicated with
(27:04):
a chain of fresh water ponds which he had recently
crossed on that section. Doctor c and myself therefore proceeded
to trace up the river, and I requested the remainder
of the party to trace it down to the sea.
Doctor c and myself then traced the river up to
the chain of ponds, and I was quite satisfied there
(27:24):
was plenty of water on the grant. We then made
a cross to the point at which the ships lay
and the stock was landed. We found all the party,
with the exception of Lynnfield, who it appeared had stayed behind.
We waited for him about three quarters of an hour,
and as it was six in the evening, the gentlemen
were anxious to return, and I therefore desired the man
(27:47):
to take the horse round to the point, find Lynnfield,
and bring him home by the Fording place. About ten
o'clock at night, the man returned home with a horse
and stated that he could not find Lynfield anywhere, and
as I felt very uneasy about him, I desired mister
Batman to send the boat to daylight the next morning
(28:08):
in search of him. Second February. The boat returned this
morning about seven o'clock with Lynfield, who, finding he had
lost us, proceeded to the Salt Water Creek where he
had been landed, and, being as I imagined, very much
afraid of the natives, sat up in a tree all night, and,
(28:29):
seeing the boat to come down the river, cooyed to them.
Mister Faulkner's vessel arrived this morning from Georgetown, and I
considered it advisable to send assistance to mister Moody in
the removal of the women stores and rams from Western Port,
and I therefore engaged the vessel for one trip. Upon
(28:50):
Captain Swanston's account, in consequence of mister Falkner's people being
engaged with a vessel, we were unable to obtain the
horses for our journey until about four in the afternoon,
when we started seven in number, intending to reach Captain
Swanston Station on the River X that night. The scenery
(29:10):
from the settlement to the ford on the Saltwater River
is most beautiful and some of the spots quite enchanting.
The grass had been burnt about a month previously and
was then quite green and beautiful. The land is very
rich and consists of a succession of gentle hills and dales,
and the first view of the Salt Water River and
(29:32):
its windings is beautiful beyond description. We reached the ford
about six thirty and we found the country completely change.
When we crossed the ford. The land was then quite
flat and rather rocky, and from the ford to the
station on the Axe, a distance of fourteen miles, and
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in fact up to Geelong Harbor, consisted of open plains
with a thin coat of grass and exp bows to
the cold winds. We did not reach the station until
ten thirty at night, and were compelled for the last
seven miles to follow a cart track, which we were
fortunately enabled to do as it was a starlight night.
(30:18):
End of Section fifty six
Section fifty six of Letters from Victorian Pioneers. This is
a LibriVox recording. All LibriVox recordings are in the public domain.
For more information or to volunteer, please visit LibriVox dott,
a work recording by NIMA Letters from Victorian Pioneers, Letter
(00:28):
number fifty six, Part one from Gellibrand's memorandum of a
trip to Port Philip, Sunday, January seventeenth, eighteen thirty six.
I embarked this morning with my son Tom on board
the Norval for Port Philip, in company with mister William Robertson,
(00:50):
mister Gardiner, mister Leakey, mister Malcolm and mister Moody, the
latter gentleman having the management of the sheep on board
the property of Captain Swanston. After making Point Grant, we
encountered a severe gale of wind from the northwest, and
(01:11):
the vessel lay two for three nights and two days
under close reef topsails. The vessel drifted about seventy or
eighty miles to the southeast, and on Sunday morning, January
twenty fourth, at daylight, the ship was again off Point
Grant and bearing up to the westward of Cape Shank
(01:32):
and distant about twenty miles. In consequence of the improper
manner in which the vessel was fitted up for the stock,
about one hundred and fifteen sheep perished by injuries and
suffocation during the gale, and the day afterwards the greater
portion of the hay had been destroyed in consequence of
(01:53):
there not being any proper racks, and on Saturday the
twenty third, the passengers were under the necessity of assisting
mister Moody and feeding the sheep with flour and water.
The captain stated that he should not be able to
make Port Philip without two or three tacks, and even
(02:13):
if he succeeded in getting into Port Philip that evening,
it would most probably take him two days to reach
the settlement. And he also stated that the ship was
under demerge at ten pound per day and would be
so until she came to Anchor Western Port, where she
was engaged to taking cargo of bark for the owner.
(02:36):
Under these circumstances and feeling convinced that if a change
of wind took place and the vessel was again driven
from the land, the sheep must perish, and there not
being any means of even keeping them alive for three days,
and believing that the sheep could be landed at Sandy
Point that day, the passengers were unanimously of opinion that
(02:57):
it would be for the interest of the charterers to
proceed at once to Western Port, land the stock and
drive the sheep across to the settlement to Port Philip.
The captain, then, at the request of mister Moody, made
Western Port, and about twelve o'clock the vessel came to
anchor near Sandy Point. About one the captain, mister Moody,
(03:22):
mister Robertson, mister Gardener, mister Leaky, and my son Tom
proceeded to the shore for the purpose of selecting a
proper place to land the sheep. I remained on board
for the purpose of getting a long boat out and
the sheep ready for disembarkation. In about three hours, the
(03:42):
boat returned and the party stated that it was impossible
to land sheep as there was nothing but heath and
scrub and no appearance of water. A person of the
name of Tom was on board the vessel for the
purpose of acting as pielt to Western Port and superintending
the shipment of the bark And, who was well acquainted
(04:06):
with Western Port. He represented that there was a beautiful
tract of land with plenty of water about ten miles
further up the bay and near to the government settlement
which had been abandoned in eighteen twenty seven. After some
deliberation and hesitation on the part of the captain, it
(04:27):
was determined that a party should proceed at daylight to
Phillip Island to examine that station, and if we could
not find good land and water, to proceed at once
to the spot pointed out by mister Tom. January twenty
fifth went on shore daylight with mister Malcolm, mister Robertson
(04:49):
and mister Moody to Phillip Island and returned in about
an hour, finding the island totally unfit for the purpose required.
Vessel immediately under way and proceeded to the spot pointed
out by mister Tom and came to anchor within a
quarter of a mile from shore about nine o'clock in
(05:11):
the morning. The long and other boats were immediately loaded
with sheep and mister Moody, mister Gardener, mister Leaky, mister Malcolm,
Tom and myself and two shepherds went to shore with
the first boat. Mister Robertson stayed on board for the
purpose of superintending the sheep, and it was arranged that
(05:33):
mister Moody and the shepherds should wait on the beach
and receive them, and that the others should examine the
tract of land and decide upon the most eligible spot
as a temporary settlement. When the sheep were landed, they
endeavored to drink salt water and were inclined to wander,
as sheep always do in a strange place. They were
(05:54):
landed upon a point of land with abundance of grass
and three hundred acres of land, and might be enclosed
by a line of one hundred and fifty yards. When
I landed, I particularly cautioned the shepherds not to let
the sheep stray, and to keep them from salt water.
We then proceeded to examine the land and found abundance
(06:16):
of grass, and in some places it was six feet high,
but we did not find any water, and passing through
one of the valleys, I found the gleams of heat
extremely oppressive, in which brought on violent palpitations and a
determination of blood to the head. We were then distant,
about three miles from the vessel. I walked back, supported
(06:40):
by mister Gardener and mister Leakey, about one mile, but
was unable to proceed any further. I then lay down
under a tree. Tom and mister Leakey, remaining with me,
and mister Gardener and mister Malcolm, proceeded to the vessel
to procure assistance. They returned in two hours with a boat,
(07:00):
and I reached the vessel about three o'clock and found
all the sheep, amounting to one thousand and nine, had
been landed. In the evening, mister Robertson, mister Leeky and
mister Gardiner went ashore and found the shepherds near the point,
and that the sheep had strayed away. They went in
(07:20):
search of them and brought back to the point about
eight hundred, which they placed in charge of the three
shepherds who were then on shore. January twenty sixth mister
Robertson and the other gentlemen went on shore at daylight
and found that the shepherds, instead of being stationed back
(07:41):
in the bush so as to keep the sheep on
the neck, had in fact wholly neglected their duty and
had slept at the extreme point on the beach close
to the vessel, and on searching for the sheep, only
two or three, which were in a dying state, could
be found. The Tlomen then proceeded in search of the sheep,
(08:02):
returned about eleven o'clock to the ship to breakfast, having
walked about fifteen miles in a fruitless search after the sheep.
Mister Robertson, having found from mister Tom that there was
a fine river about nine miles from the point, was
extremely anxious to proceed in search of the sheep as
far as the river, under the expectation of finding them,
(08:27):
and mister Tom promising to meet them in the evening
with a long boat near the mouth of the river.
The Captain and my son left the vessel about the
same time, proceeded along the beach on the other side
of the point and as far as the late settlement.
The captain and Tom found the tracks of sheep along
(08:47):
the beach, at about two miles from the landing place,
a muddy saltwater creek, and the carcasses of about two
hundred and eighty sheep in and near the creek. Mister
Robertson and the others reached the vessel about eleven o'clock
at night. They had been unsuccessful in their search. They
were worn out with fatigue and anxiety. Mister Moody went
(09:11):
into violent hysterics. Mister Robertson and mister Leaky were both
taken exceedingly ill, and in fact nature appeared quite exhausted.
January twenty seventh. We this morning took into consideration our
own situation in what course should be pursued. Having suffered
(09:33):
from the heat on Monday, I did not think it
proper to expose myself to the dangers of a journey
over land, and I intimated my intention of staying on
board until a better opportunity of proceeding either backwards or forwards,
presented itself. But finding that one or two of the
gentlemen would follow my example, and that the others would
(09:55):
proceed overland to Port Philip, and thinking the three or
four might be exposed to dangers which eight might prevent,
and knowing also the anxiety I should feel in the
uncertainty of their fate, I at length determined that we
should all proceed by the first opportunity to Port Philip.
(10:17):
We were all anxious However, before we quitted the vessel
to conclude some arrangement for the establishment of mister Moody
until we could send him assistance from Port Philip, And
as the late Government station appeared the most eligible for
that purpose on account of its situation and supply of water,
(10:38):
we proceeded this morning in the whale boat to that
station and made arrangements which appeared satisfactory to mister Moody,
who then determined to remove all his stores and also
the wives of the shepherds, out of the vessel and
fix his station there, so that we might direct a
party where to find him on our return the ship.
(11:01):
The party were all busily engaged in making arrangements for
the proposed journey, and I was busily employed in making
calamel pills in case any of the party should be
taken ill. This day was extremely sultry, and we were
waiting some hours in anxious expectation of the sea breeze,
as we were desirous of reaching Sandy Point that night
(11:24):
so that we might start upon our journey by daylight.
About five o'clock a slight breeze set in, and we
bid farewell to the norwhal Each person taking one bottle
of water, and trusting to Providence for such further supplies
as we might require, and our passage to Sandy Point.
Mister Gardner shot a swan and Tom another. We were
(11:48):
unable to reach Sandy Point before dark. At about three
quarters of a mile from our landing place, the boat
grounded on a sand bank with a rapid ebbing tide,
and we we remained aground, high and dry all night.
At daylight the tide was flowing, and in one and
a half hours the vessel was afloat, and about six
(12:10):
o'clock we landed and saw many tracks of the natives
upon the beach. We made a fire and roasted the
swans for breakfast, which proved very acceptable. And after having
remunerated mister Tom for his trouble, and obtained from him
a promise to return to the same spot on the
following Sunday in case we should be unable to accomplish
(12:34):
our purpose, mister Tom took his departure in the boat
and we commenced our journey twenty eighth. The party were
eight in number, all carried arms except myself, and all
knapsacks except Tom and myself. Mister r most kindly carried
(12:55):
the greater portion of my provisions, and mister L the blankets,
and the remainder was carried by my shepherd. Mister G
was chosen conductor, and in case of any appearance of
the natives, the gentlemen were all pledged to act under
my direction. We pursued a course northwest and found the
(13:17):
country for the first three miles heath and low scrub.
We then got into a thin forest, and after we
had walked about nine miles, I felt the same effects
from the heat that I had experienced the previous Monday,
and in consequence the party halted in the forest. I
lay down for about two hours, and, finding the heat
(13:39):
very oppressive, I took three grains of calomel, and in
half an hour afterwards took another pill. Whilst we're in
the forest, mister L had exhausted his supply of water,
and at this time he was determined to leave us
in search of water. Accordingly, mister L and one of
the men left us and were absent upwards of one hour.
(14:03):
We became much alarmed at their absence, but at length
heard a cooie and they returned with the intelligence that
they had fallen in with about one hundred native huts,
and near the huts had discovered water. We then packed
up our things and proceeded on our course, and about
a quarter of an hour came to a few water
(14:24):
holes surrounded with a thick scrub. The party dined at
this place, and although it was extremely hot, we remained
there till five o'clock under the shelter of a blanket
tent to protect us from the rays of the sun.
Having filled all our bottles with water, we then proceeded
on our journey, and, supposing the distance across to the
(14:47):
Bay of Port Philip to be only a few miles,
we were induced to hope we should reach the beach
that night. Several times we fancied we could discern the sea,
and we kept on walking till ten o'clock at night,
when we got into a piece of open scrub, and
thinking it safer to lie down in an open place,
we determined to stay there that night, and those who
(15:10):
had blankets spread them out and lay down to rest,
affording part to those who had none. We were too
tired either to make a fire or to eat. January
twenty ninth, we rose at daylight and proceeded on our
journey without any breakfast, under the hope of making the bay.
(15:32):
We came to two or three very scrubby places, but
without water, and at this time I do not think
there was a bottle of water amongst the whole party.
One or two of the gentlemen were of opinion that
we were making too much north, which prevented us from
reaching the bay, and as that seemed to be the
object of our desire, our course was altered a point
(15:55):
or two more west, and about eight o'clock in the
morning we came up on a saltwater creek which led
to Port Philip Bay. We found a fire burning in
two native huts and every appearance of their having been
occupied the previous night, and on the beach we found
tracts of natives. Proceeding towards Arthur's seat, we rested here
(16:18):
and made a fire. Some of the party proceeded in
search of water, which however, was very bractish. We had
our breakfast and consumed what little water was left. Two
bottles of the brackish water were boiled with tea in
the event of not finding better water. After resting at
this place about half an hour, we proceeded on our
(16:40):
journey about five miles and then discovered several native huts.
Into our great joying gratitude, found a creek with an
abundant supply of water. We rested at this place about
two hours, filled our bottles, and proceeded on our journey
about six miles and came to some more water holes
in native of huts. We dined at the spot, took
(17:03):
a fresh supply of water, and proceeded on our journey
and came to a tract of low scrubby land, upon
which we took to the beach and came to an
open sandy bay about thirty or forty miles long. We
continued walking till about six o'clock, when the weather became
squally and wet. We walked for about half an hour
(17:25):
and had intended to do so till late at night,
but the rain increasing, we thought it most prudent to
get some shelter before it was dark. We then went
into the scrub and found a sheltered spot. We made
a blanket hut to protect us from the rain, with
a large fire in front. We soon found a large
quantity of blue ants on the ground, which we had
(17:47):
selected for our resting place. And I. Therefore, as it
was too late to move our tent, spread the ashes
all over the ground, which had the effect of driving
them away. It continued raining till about two o'clock, but
as we were lying on a sand bank, the rain
was all absorbed. Thirtieth January. We started this morning about
(18:10):
half an hour before daylight, and continued walking till eight
o'clock without finding any fresh water. We then rested and
had our breakfast and about half a pint of tea
to each person, which was all the water we had left,
and we then continued our journey, expecting at every turn
to the bay that we should discover the river. We
(18:31):
continued walking till twelve o'clock, when mister Leaky and Tom
lay down and declared they could not proceed any further
till they got water. We had now quitted the shore
and got upon high land again. After resting on the
hill about half an hour, I urged upon the party
to proceed, and after some difficulty, we were all on
(18:53):
the march, but some of the party were a considerable
distance behind. We were now on a native track, and
the advantage of following those tracks is soon experienced. This
track continued along the margin of the hill and ultimately
led us to the beach, and near the beach we
found a few native huts and one native well. Upon
(19:15):
discovering the well, mister G gave the welcome shout water,
which was immediately repeated by the others, and in a
few minutes the weary ones in a rear came rushing down,
anxious to quench their thirst, but by the time they
had reached the well, mister G reported the water to
be bad. Mister R, however, examined the well, and thinking
(19:39):
that it had been choked up, he got a noise
to shell and cleaned it out and deepened it, expecting
that the fresh water would be good. The party were
now obliged to wait with much anxiety, watching the rising
of the water in the hole, and at length mister
R was enabled to distribute to each person half a pint,
and in about one one hour a second supply of
(20:01):
one point each was distributed for dinner, and we were
enabled when we quitted at four o'clock to take with
us three bottles of water. At four we continued our
course along the beach, mister Gardner and myself making the
first start, and in about ten minutes we saw a
dog on the beach advancing toward us at length. He
(20:24):
stopped and ran back again and turned into the bush,
from which we concluded that the natives were at hand.
We waited till some of the party came up, and
then advanced and found on the beach part of a
boomer kangaroo, and we saw the tracks of several natives
on the beach, and several tracks of dogs. We fully
expected this night to reach the settlement, and we pushed
(20:48):
on until seven o'clock. We then came to a point
which we fully expected would be the head of the river.
We crossed over the point and found a stack of
wattle bark and we also found the hut where the
barkers had lived, and the tracks of a cart. It
had been raining about three quarters of an hour, and
we were nearly wet through. We felt assured that we
(21:10):
were near the settlement, and that the bark had been
obtained by mister Faulkner's party, but we could not see
the river. It was near night, and there was every
appearance of a wet night, and we therefore considered it
most prudent at once to make a blanket hut for
the night and make a fire before the bark and
(21:30):
grass were too wet, in which we accordingly did. Two
of the party went in search of water holes, but
without success, and Tom went to the beach to shoot
a duck, and in about ten minutes he returned, having
found the water holes near the beach, and where we
again obtained an abundant supply of good water. This night
(21:51):
was very wet and the most uncomfortable night we had
experienced thirty first January. Although we were satisfied that we
were near the settlement, we considered it most prudent to
keep the bay until we reached the river, and after
walking seven miles further, we at length discovered the mouth
(22:12):
of the river. My feet had been for the last
two days very much blistered, and I felt quite unable
to walk any further, and I therefore proposed that half
the party should proceed to the settlement and send a
boat to a horse. To my assistance, and mister Gardener,
mister Leaky, mister Malcolm, and Tom proceeded to the settlement.
(22:34):
I hobbled, along with the assistance of mister robertson about
three miles and then waited for the horse or boat
In about half an hour, a boat manned with blacks
came down the river. We hailed them, and after explaining
where we had come from and who we were, they
came to our assistance. We found they were going to
(22:57):
the heads to fish, but they immediately proceed with us
to the settlement, and we arrived there about twelve o'clock.
The settlement consists of about a dozen huts built with
turf on the left bank of the river Yari Yara.
The river from the mouth to the settlement is about
eight miles long. It is salked for about six The
(23:20):
first two miles it is about five hundred yards wide.
For the next three miles it is about three hundred yards.
It then becomes gradually narrower and is about sixty yards
wide at the settlement, with deep and precipitous banks and
vessels of sixty tons burthened can with safety proceed to
(23:40):
the settlement close to the shore and discharge a cargo.
As it was of importance that immediate assistance should be
rentered to mister Moody, I made arrangements with mister Batman
to dispatch on the next morning four Sydney natives who
it appeared were well acquainted with Westy to import, and who,
(24:02):
upon my questioning them, appeared also quite confident that they
would be able to find the sheep and bring them
to port. Philip I felt very much vexed on learning
that the natives, with the exception of two, had left
the settlement on a hunting expedition a few days previous,
and would not return for some time. First February I
(24:25):
had this morning a long conversation with Buckley, and explained
to him very fully the desire of the Association in
every respect to meet his views and to make him
superintendent over the native tribes, for the purpose of protecting
them from aggressions, and also of acting as an interpreter
(24:45):
in imparting to them not only the habits of civilization,
but also of communicating religious knowledge. It appears from his
statement that the tribes are most peaceably disposed, that they
fully underst stand the nature of the grants issued by them,
and that they are looking forward to the time when
the blankets, tomahawks and flower will be distributed. Buckley appears
(25:10):
to be of a nervous and irritable disposition, and a
little thing will annoy him much. But this may arise
from the peculiar situation in which he has been placed
for so many years. I am quite satisfied that he
can only be acted upon by kindness and conciliation, and
that by those means he will be instrument in the
(25:31):
hands of Providence in working a great moral change upon
the Aborigines. He is not at all desirous of occupying
any land or having sheep, but is highly pleased at
the idea of being appointed superintendent of the natives, with
a fixed stipend, so that to use his own expression,
he may know what he has to depend upon, and
(25:54):
be enabled to make a few presents to his native friends.
I told him that I intended on the following day
to proceed to Geelong, and inquired whether he would not
like to visit his own country. He seemed much pleased
at the idea, but stated he did not think he
could walk so far. I then proposed he should ride,
(26:16):
which seemed to gratify him very much, and in consequence
I engaged a large cart horse of mister Faulkner's for
that purpose. My feet were so bad I could not walk,
and as I was desirous of seeing Number twelve, I
had my horse taken to the Fording place and round
to the Saltwater Creek. At about ten o'clock, mister G,
(26:40):
Mister R. Doctor Carter, myself and Lynnfield went in the
whale boat to the creek. I took Lynnfield with me
for the purpose of making him acquainted with that section,
as I intended to stock it. After passing over about
six miles of the section, we came upon a large
sala river, which Doctor Cotter was of opinion communicated with
(27:04):
a chain of fresh water ponds which he had recently
crossed on that section. Doctor c and myself therefore proceeded
to trace up the river, and I requested the remainder
of the party to trace it down to the sea.
Doctor c and myself then traced the river up to
the chain of ponds, and I was quite satisfied there
(27:24):
was plenty of water on the grant. We then made
a cross to the point at which the ships lay
and the stock was landed. We found all the party,
with the exception of Lynnfield, who it appeared had stayed behind.
We waited for him about three quarters of an hour,
and as it was six in the evening, the gentlemen
were anxious to return, and I therefore desired the man
(27:47):
to take the horse round to the point, find Lynnfield,
and bring him home by the Fording place. About ten
o'clock at night, the man returned home with a horse
and stated that he could not find Lynfield anywhere, and
as I felt very uneasy about him, I desired mister
Batman to send the boat to daylight the next morning
(28:08):
in search of him. Second February. The boat returned this
morning about seven o'clock with Lynfield, who, finding he had
lost us, proceeded to the Salt Water Creek where he
had been landed, and, being as I imagined, very much
afraid of the natives, sat up in a tree all night, and,
(28:29):
seeing the boat to come down the river, cooyed to them.
Mister Faulkner's vessel arrived this morning from Georgetown, and I
considered it advisable to send assistance to mister Moody in
the removal of the women stores and rams from Western Port,
and I therefore engaged the vessel for one trip. Upon
(28:50):
Captain Swanston's account, in consequence of mister Falkner's people being
engaged with a vessel, we were unable to obtain the
horses for our journey until about four in the afternoon,
when we started seven in number, intending to reach Captain
Swanston Station on the River X that night. The scenery
(29:10):
from the settlement to the ford on the Saltwater River
is most beautiful and some of the spots quite enchanting.
The grass had been burnt about a month previously and
was then quite green and beautiful. The land is very
rich and consists of a succession of gentle hills and dales,
and the first view of the Salt Water River and
(29:32):
its windings is beautiful beyond description. We reached the ford
about six thirty and we found the country completely change.
When we crossed the ford. The land was then quite
flat and rather rocky, and from the ford to the
station on the Axe, a distance of fourteen miles, and
(29:52):
in fact up to Geelong Harbor, consisted of open plains
with a thin coat of grass and exp bows to
the cold winds. We did not reach the station until
ten thirty at night, and were compelled for the last
seven miles to follow a cart track, which we were
fortunately enabled to do as it was a starlight night.
(30:18):
End of Section fifty six
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