September 3, 2025 • 30 mins
Dive into a fascinating collection of letters penned by the early pioneers of Victoria, addressing the Lieutenant-Governor Charles Joseph La Trobe in response to his circular dated July 29, 1853. These correspondences provide a glimpse into the early days of the colony, its interactions with the Aboriginal community, and the perspectives of those who shaped its history. While these letters offer valuable insights, they are not without their flaws; as noted in the preface, they cannot be deemed infallible records of our past. The series concludes with a unique compilation of Aboriginal words and phrases gathered by a dedicated woman, which, though their accuracy may be uncertain, stands as a testament to her commitment to preserving cultural heritage. Remember, the views expressed in these letters reflect the sentiments of the time and may not necessarily align with modern perspectives. (Annise)
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Section fifty seven of Letters from Victorian Pioneers. This is
a LibriVox recording. All LibriVox recordings are in the public domain.
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Recording by NEMO Letters from Victorian Pioneers, Letter number fifty six,
(00:29):
Part two from Gellibrand's memorandum of a trip to Port Philip,
third February. As mister Ferguson had not found the sheep
when we were proceeding in the direction where they had
been lost, he proposed to accompany us in our visit
to Geelong, and we started this morning about seven o'clock.
(00:52):
At noon, we came upon a chain of ponds which
appeared to come from the Debacca Rite, in which I
accordingly noted my chart. We stopped at this chain of
ponds and dined, and towards evening we came upon some
native wells near the point of Geelong Harbor, which are
called Ghiwar, and as there was good feed for the horses,
(01:15):
we determined on staying here for the night. Fourth February.
We started from Guiwar about six o'clock, and shortly afterwards
entered the section number sixteen, which we found to contain
a tract of most excellent land, fit for agricultural or
pastoral purposes. After traveling about fourteen miles, we came to
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some more nedive wells on the margin of the bay
and close to the line which divides sixteen from seventeen.
We stayed at this place and dined, and then proceeded
across the Bellarine Hills to the settlement at Invented Head.
The Bellarine Hills contain about twenty thousand acres of land
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of the finest description. They consist of hill and dale,
and although we did not see any water in the valleys,
I am satisfied water could be easily obtained. The land
is thinly timbered, the soil appeared very rich and fit
for any purpose. The kangaroo grass was up to my
middle and with a thick bottom. It is as fine
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attractive land as any I have yet passed over. We
reached the settlement about four o'clock, and I learned, to
my extreme mortification that some of the natives had that
morning and the others that day previously quitted the settlement
in consequence of the threats made use of by the
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man at the station, that he would shoot the natives.
I found that the natives had a few nights previously
stolen about a sack of potatoes out of the garden.
They had pulled up the roots and taken them potatoes,
and then planted the roots in the earth again, thinking
they should not be discovered and to prevent a repetition
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of this conduct, the threats had been made use of
without the slightest intention of carrying them into execution. I found,
in answer to my inquiries, that no food of any
description had been given to the natives for the last
three months, that although there is abundance of fish at
Indented Head, yet there are no means of catching them,
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and that the natives had no idea of making boats
or catamarans. February fifth, we started very early this morning,
under the expectation that we should see the natives, and
in order that they should not be frightened. I directed
Buckley to advance and we would follow him at the
distance of a quarter of a mile. Buckley made towards
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a native well, and after he had ridden about eight miles,
we heard a koi, and when we arrived at the spot,
I witnessed one of the most pleasing and affecting sights.
There were three men, five women, and about twelve children.
Buckley had dismounted, and they were all clinging round him,
in tears of joy and delight running down their cheeks.
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It was truly an affecting sight, and proved the affection
which these people entertained for Buckley. I felt much affected
at the sight myself, and considered it a convincing proof
of the happy results which will follow our exertions if
properly directed. Amongst the number were a little old man
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and an old woman, one of his wives. Buckley told
me this was his old friend with whom he had
lived and associated thirty years. I was surprised to find
that this old man had not a blanket, and I
inquired the cause, and was much concerned to learn that
no blankets had been given him because he did not
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leave that part of the country and proceed to du
Tagala for it. I could ill spare my blankets for him,
but I could not refrain from giving one of them
to Buckley, in order that he might give it to
his friend with an assurance that he should have further
clothing after our return. The men seemed much surprised at
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the horses. I, however, after some little persuasion, induced the
youngest man to put his foot in the stirrup and
mount my gray mare, and I led the horse round
a few paces, to the great delight of the whole party.
I then coaxed the mare and put my face to
hers to show them they need not be afraid, And
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then prevailed upon a young girl, about thirteen years of
age also to take a ride. As soon as the
horse began to move, she seemed very much alarmed, and
her countenance bespoke her fears, but she continued silent. We
gave them a few presents, and then left them to
proceed on our journey. I may here mention that so
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soon as Buckley crossed the Saltwater River and obtained a
view of his own country, his countenance was much changed
from when we reached Geelong. He took the lead and
kept us upon a trot. He seemed quite delighted and
proud of his horse. When we quitted the natives, we
directed our course to the head of the Barhwan River.
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This river is about two miles wide. There are breakers
on each side of the heads, like Port Philip. But
it appeared to me that there was a channel in
the center. We then proceeded through a fair country near
the margin of the river until we arrived at a
flat where the river is at least eight or nine
miles wide. At this flat there is some very good
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native wells called Yanyan. We dined at this place and
continued our course near the river until we had crossed
over a very extensive marsh on the banks of the Barwan,
the extremity of number sixteen. We stopped at this place
all night and shot some wild fowls which we had
for our supper. Tom shot a large musk duck which
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Buckley had for his supper. February sixth We started this
morning about six o'clock, and when we had got out
of the marsh, we saw Geelong Harbor and ascertained that
the distance from the harbor at the neck was not
more than four miles. We continued our course upon some
highland until we had reached the junction of the yawl
(07:28):
Oak and Barwan rivers. We then descended into a marsh
on the Yawl Oak left our horses. There, crossed the
Yawl Oak by a native track over a large tree,
and went across to the Barwan to a spot called
Buckley's Falls, where there is a large basin and the
river somewhat resembles the cataract and basin at Lanceston, but
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upon a smaller scale. Buckley showed us the hollow tree
in which he used to live, in the places where
the native used to catch the fish in the winter season.
Mister Gardner, mister Leaky, mister Robertson, myself and mister Malcolm
crossed over the Cataract for the purpose of examining the
Barrabool Hills, which had presented a most inviting appearance in
(08:16):
our progress up the Barwan River. We passed over about
eight or nine miles and kept upon the high grounds
in order that we might see the surrounding country. We
found the herbage to be very good, and I think
the best sheep country we had passed over, and I
believed the other gentlemen were the same opinion. We were
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compelled to cross the Barwan at the same spot. And
I should think from the appearance of the country that
the Barwan is a deep river about sixty feet wide
for many miles up in the winter, a large body
of water passes down it. We then crossed the Yalloak
and dined, and proceeded about twelve miles further up the
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river for the purpose of ensians affecting the country, and
also searching for tracts of sheep, but without success. We
stayed in a small marsh on the banks of the
Aloak that night. The river at this part is only
a small running stream. Having a few spare potatoes, we
planted them in this marsh near the fire February seventh.
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As soon as we made the rising ground this morning,
we took an observation of the Villamonada and Anarchy Hills.
We found that they were not correctly laid down. We
then proceeded direct for Anarchy Hills. We passed over a
tract of very fine land and found some water holes
at the foot of the Anarchy and the herbage. For
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miles round and even up to the top of the
finest description, we reached the summit of the highest hill,
from which we had a beautiful view of the land
extending up towards the Ax, which appeared to be very
fine and well timbered, also of the Barrabou Hills, and
of the land in and about Geelong. We descended on
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the north side passed along flat lands between the Anachy
and the Villamonta and left them four miles on the right.
We then came upon the Debaccarite, which enabled me to
continue the chain of ponds and where we dined, and
after dinner we rode across to Captain Swanston Station, which
(10:27):
we reached at sundown February eighth. We passed this morning
over to the upper part of number twelve in order
to continue the chain of ponds, which we traced up
to and over number eleven. We dined at the stock
hut at the ford, and after dinner passed about five
miles along the side line of number nine, and then
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made an angle across to the settlement, which we reached
about four p m. And found that no vessel had
arrived during our absence. In the evening, some of the
natives came to the settlement and reported that a ship
was coming in. They also made us understand that they
had tracked us on the beach and followed us many miles,
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and they had also seen the places where we had slept.
February ninth, a day. Late this morning, we heard the
report of guns from the ship, and shortly afterwards the
natives reported that a vessel was at anchor with three masts,
and concluding it was the Caledonia. Mister Ferguson went down
the river with mister Batman's boat. About eleven o'clock Captain
(11:34):
Symers of the Caledonia came up to the settlement. I
then arranged with him for a passage to Georgetown and
to be on board on Saturday afternoon. At two o'clock,
mister Ferguson, mister Leakey, mister Robertson, myself, Winfield, and Stuart,
one of the Sydney natives left the settlement for the
(11:56):
purpose of proceeding to the northward and exploring that part
of the count. We took with us four days supplies
and only two guns. My object in taking Stuart was
to prevent the possibility of any collision with the natives,
and that he might act as an interpreter. We proceeded
in a straight line through the lands reserved for the settlement,
(12:18):
in over number nine, and passing over number nine, we
crossed a chain of ponds extending a little to the northwest.
When we had reached the extremity of number nine and
were upon number seven, it was nearly dark, we observed
a tier of sheep hills to the right and concluded
that we should find water at the foot. And we
(12:39):
accordingly moved to the right and passed over about four
miles of very fine land, and just at dusk came
upon a chain of ponds, as we expected, where we
stayed all night. February tenth. We started this morning at daylight,
leaning to the right and ascending the sheep hills, so
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that we might be enabled to obtain an extensive view
to the northeast. We traveled in this direction about four miles,
and from the summit of the hill we had an
extensive view of the country, composing numbers three and four.
In part of eight. The country appeared rather thickly wooded
towards number four, and particularly so over number eight. We
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are enabled clearly to trace the course of the river
Yarra Yarra by the white fog. We then proceeded in
a westerly direction till we came to the chain of
ponds which I had particularly traced through number eight, and
the line of which I was then enabled to continue.
This chain of ponds I considered to be within a
mile of the sideline between number seven and number six.
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The country and pasturage are here very fine and present
a desirable spot for an homestead, as I intended to
come back over numbers one and two, and within a
few miles of the spot I marked down on the
chart two Sugar Loaf Hills. The weather was exceedingly hot
this day, and we rested under a blanket tent for
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some hours at the ponds. In the afternoon, we proceeded
in a westerly course over a continuation of plains. We
then ascended a rise, and from the summit obtained one
of the most beautiful views I ever saw, commanding a
full view of the junction near the settlement, the Bay Geelong, Villamonata,
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and the Barboul Hills. I think it must have been
from this spot mister Hume had the first view of
Port Philip. After taking observations in the bearings of these
several places on the chart, we continued our course over
number six until we reached the Saltwater River or the
River Arndell, as called by mister Hume. We found the
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land lightly timbered and fully equal to our expectations as
to quality. The country near the river is hilly and
full of glens and is well calculated for an extensive
sheep run. We continued our course on the high ground
and near the river for about five miles, and then
descended into a small marsh near Gum's Corner, where we
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stayed all night February eleventh. We this morning crossed the
Salt Water River and took a westerly direction to the
summit of a flat top hill, which Stuart stated was
the hill from which mister Batman saw the native fires
upon his first visit, in which he called Mount Iramo.
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We then proceeding over a running stream which nearly divides
Number five, we were detained some time waiting for mister Ferguson,
whose horse had lost a foreshoe. When he reached me,
I told him that as we were limited to time,
it was necessary we should push on, and I proposed
that he should mount Stuart's horse, and that Stuart should
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lead his horse to the settlement. My object in doing
this was to afford him the opportunity of inspecting number
one and two in order that he might report thereupon
to Captain Swanston. And to accomplish this purpose I should
have deprived myself of Stuart's assistance mister Ferguson, without even
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thanking me for the offer, observed that the black man
were very careless, and that he should not trust his
horse with him. Stuart had hitherto carried a double barreled
gun for the protection of the party. Mister Ferguson called
to Stuart to give him the gun, and he then
wished me good morning. During the whole of our journey
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through the bush, the fires had at every instance been
produced from the phosphoric matches which mister Ferguson had, independent
of which he also carried a steel prepared punk. I
felt much surprised at his conduct, and, not knowing whether
we might experience any difficulty in obtaining fire, I said
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to him, if you leave us, what shall we do
without your matches. He simply replied, oh, you will have
no difficulty in obtaining fire, and rode away and left me.
At this time we were not more than twenty two
miles from his tent. Mount Cotterill was in full view,
and he could easily have reached home that afternoon. We
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then proceeded northwest about two miles, and as we were
desirous of seeing the land to the westward, we left
our horses with the servants and ascended the summit of
the sugar Loaf Hill about half a mile distant. We
had now only a single barreled gun for our production.
We then altered our course nearly due north and passed
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over some very good plains, and near the foot of
a tier of hills, we crossed over two or three rivulets,
at one of which we dined. We then came to
a forest of gum and stringy bark, and, having ridden
about a mile and a half, we then altered our
course and proceeded deue east. On our way from the
forest to the line extending to the Villamonta Hills, we
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passed over two other creeks which appeared to flow in
a southerly direction. We continued our course until we again
reached the Saltwater River. The land of number one is
very good and is well watered. We crossed three chains
of ponds about three miles distant from each other. We
stayed on the banks all night, and as we did
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not reach the river till near dark and were fatigued,
we did not put up any hut or break wind.
About twelve at night we had a heavy thunderstorm and
by two o'clock we were all wet through February twelfth.
Mister Leaky and myself had slept upon the hills to
avoid the mosquitoes, and when we had descended into the
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bottom we found the fire almost out. We roused the
party and were at length, with a greatest difficulty, enabled
to make the fire burn. It continued burning till daylight,
and we then dried our clothes, had some hot tea
across the river, and proceeded on our journey. We now
altered our course for the purpose of passing between the
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two hills which I had marked down on the tenth,
and we arrived at the spot within a few minutes
of the time we expected, so that the chart must
be correctly laid down, and also our observation upon it.
About one mile from the river, we came upon a
most beautiful vale extending apparently several miles to the northward,
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and extending over part of number six and seven. This
vale contains about twenty thousand acres of the richest quality
under the finest herbage I ever saw, and in my opinion,
far superior to any of the land upon number nine
or any of the sections. We found the continuation of
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the rivulet, and then let it wound round the flat
topped hill, thereby affording a most eligible situation for our homestead.
We then continued our course to another hill near the
margin of number seven, which we passed over, and from
this hill we had the opportunity of proving the correctness
of the hills marked down by the observation. We then
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continued our course about eight miles over fine feeding land,
and came upon a rapid stream of water flowing like
all the other rivers from the north to south. We
called this river the River Plenty, as it is the
only stream except the River Barwan deserving the name of river.
We dined at this river, and after proceeding about one
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mile down it, in order to form an opinion as
to its course, and as we are desirous of reaching,
if possible, the River Yariara that afternoon. We then crossed
the river and made an easterly course through forest land
about six miles and until we came upon another rapid
stream flowing in a southerly direction, and which it was
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impossible to cross in consequence of the hills and scrub
We then proceeded about a mile southeast when we were
again stopped by a small stream and found the land
very boggy. After proceeding about half a mile south and
one mile west along a high ridge, we determined to
cross if possible the stream, and which after much labor,
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we accomplished, But finding it impossible to continue our course,
and the land between us and the Yar Yara being
very heavy and thickly wooded, we were compelled again to
recross the last stream, and as it was near six
in the evening with an appearance of rain, we thought
it most prudent to halt for the night and put
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up a strong and secure tent to protect us from
the wet February thirteenth. When we awoke this morning, we found,
to our dismay that the horses, with the exception of
one mare, which had been tethered out, were missing. In
about an hour, Stuart returned informing us that he had
discovered the tracks and that the horses were all gone.
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We were under an engagement to return to the settlement
by twelve o'clock. We calculated that we were distant about
seventeen miles in a straight line. We got our breakfast
and packed all the saddles. Upon the horse which had
been tethered out, and then proceeded in search of the
horses by following their tracks. And here the instinct of
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that noble animal was most powerfully exhibited. The horses had
been a circuit of at least one hundred and twenty miles,
they had never been within ten miles of the spot
where we were stationed that night, and yet instead of
proceeding back upon their tracks, the horses made a direct
course for the settlement round the hills, with as much
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care and sagacity as could have been manifested had they
been led by a native. We followed the tracks about
seven miles and until we came upon the banks of
the river Plenty, where we found the horses grazing. We
then saddled them, crossed the river, and continued the course
to the settlement, which we reached at five minutes past twelve.
(23:16):
Upon my arrival at the settlement, I found about a
hundred and fifty natives, and I learnt with much concern
that an act of aggression had been committed upon one
of the women, which required my immediate attention. Without waiting
to refresh myself or refit, I proceeded to the native
huts and ordered the persons supposed to be implicated to
(23:39):
be brought down. I found a young woman about twenty two,
lying on the ground, covered over with a kangaroo rug,
and suffering from a violent contusion on the back part
of her head, and which I understood had been inflicted
upon her by her husband. It appeared that she was
one of three wives that the Tree tribe had lately
(24:00):
been on the Saltwater River and near the shepherd's hut
on number ten. That this woman was proceeding towards the
settlement to see her mother and fell in with one
of the shepherds, who laid hold of her, brought her
to the hut, tied her hands behind her, and kept
her there all night, and either that night or the
next morning, abused her person. When she reached the settlement,
(24:23):
she communicated to her friends the injury she had sustained,
and they immediately apprised Buckley of it, expecting to obtain redress.
The natives are particularly jealous respecting their women, and they
consider any intercourse of this kind as a contamination, and
in every case punished the woman, frequently even to death.
(24:45):
The natives, men, women, and children assembled around me I
explained to them through Buckley our determination in every instance
to punish the white man and to protect the natives
to the utmost of our but we are not allowed
to beat them as they had the woman, but would
send them to their own country to be punished. The
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woman was then raised and the two men placed before her,
and Buckley asked her if either of these men had
ill treated her person. She replied no, and I then
inquired whether she had ever seen them before. She replied yes,
They were in the hut when the other man brought
her in with her hands tied. I then inquired of
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the overseer and found that a third man was at
the hut but had not been brought down. I then
explained to the two men the wickedness of their conduct
and how justly they would be punished if the natives
had inflicted an injury upon them, and gave orders that
as soon as fresh shepherds could be obtained, they should
(25:50):
be removed from the settlement under the terms of their indentures.
I directed the other man to be immediately sent for,
and if the woman identified him as the aggress that
he should be removed from the settlement by the first
ship and be publicly taken away as a prisoner. I
directed Buckley to explain to the whole tribe the course
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which I directed to be pursued, and I could perceive
by the expression of their countenances that they were highly satisfied.
I then endeavored to make the poor woman understand how
much I commiserated with her situation, and I tied round
her neck a red silk handkerchief, which delighted her exceedingly.
(26:31):
Footnote The manuscript and the possession of the trustees of
the Public Library ends here, and the following passages are
printed from the imperfect copy of Gellibrand's journal given in
volume three of the Transactions of the Philosophical Society of Victoria.
(26:52):
End footnote missing portion, All of the party missing portion,
and we all went in the captain's boat to the
mouth of the river and reached the missing portion. Sixteenth February.
By daylight. This morning, we were visited on board by
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four of our own tribe in mister Batman's whale boat.
The natives appeared much pleased with their visit and surprised
at the appearance of the vessel. They remained on board
about a quarter of an hour when having obtained a
supply of biscuit, they left us at Missing Portion o'clock.
The vessel was under way Missing Portion, and proceeded towards
(27:39):
the sea. Mister Escourt came to anchor near the settlement
at Indented Head. When we were near Arthur's seat, it
became necessary to work the vessel through a narrow passage
about four miles long. This passage is not more than
a mile and a half wide in some places, and
the missing portion in the evening, so that the captain
(28:02):
was afraid to proceed to see that night lest we
should be driven upon Cape Ottway, and in consequence came
to anchor about three miles from the heads under the
lee of the land. Seventeenth February. We got under weigh
at daylight and made a safe passage between the heads
of Port Philip Missing Portion. About eleven o'clock at night
(28:27):
we reached White's Hotel at Launceston observations. The Natives are
a fine race of men, many of them handsome in
their persons and all well made. They are strong and athletic,
very intelligent and quick in their perceptions. Missing portion, preparing meat,
(28:51):
Missing portion. The women and especially the young ones are
particularly modest in their behavior and also in their dress.
They all appear to be well disposed and very fond
of bread and potatoes. In the winter season, they live
principally on fishing game. Upon the Missing Portion appearance of
(29:13):
the country, I feel persuaded that they must exert themselves
considerably in obtaining subsistence. And from their extreme partiality to
bread and potatoes, I feel not the slightest doubt, but
that they may be all brought to habits of industry
and civilization. When the mode of obtaining potatoes and wheat.
(29:35):
Missing Portion country is generally Missing Portion, open flat Champagne country,
with abundance of verdure in well watered it far exceeds
my expectations, although I was prepared to expect something very superior.
I consider the representations of mister Batman fully born out,
(30:00):
and from the account given by Buckley, I am disposed
to believe Missing Portion. I this day Missing Portion settlement
at Port Philip, Having taken a trip over in the
Adelaide with some of my sheep, I found the young
woman before spoken of living at the settlement with her
(30:21):
husband and his other wives. She had quite recovered from
the contusion, and her husband was again reconciled to her
end of Section fifty seven.
Section fifty seven of Letters from Victorian Pioneers. This is
a LibriVox recording. All LibriVox recordings are in the public domain.
For more information or to volunteer, please visit LibriVox dot org.
Recording by NEMO Letters from Victorian Pioneers, Letter number fifty six,
(00:29):
Part two from Gellibrand's memorandum of a trip to Port Philip,
third February. As mister Ferguson had not found the sheep
when we were proceeding in the direction where they had
been lost, he proposed to accompany us in our visit
to Geelong, and we started this morning about seven o'clock.
(00:52):
At noon, we came upon a chain of ponds which
appeared to come from the Debacca Rite, in which I
accordingly noted my chart. We stopped at this chain of
ponds and dined, and towards evening we came upon some
native wells near the point of Geelong Harbor, which are
called Ghiwar, and as there was good feed for the horses,
(01:15):
we determined on staying here for the night. Fourth February.
We started from Guiwar about six o'clock, and shortly afterwards
entered the section number sixteen, which we found to contain
a tract of most excellent land, fit for agricultural or
pastoral purposes. After traveling about fourteen miles, we came to
(01:40):
some more nedive wells on the margin of the bay
and close to the line which divides sixteen from seventeen.
We stayed at this place and dined, and then proceeded
across the Bellarine Hills to the settlement at Invented Head.
The Bellarine Hills contain about twenty thousand acres of land
(02:03):
of the finest description. They consist of hill and dale,
and although we did not see any water in the valleys,
I am satisfied water could be easily obtained. The land
is thinly timbered, the soil appeared very rich and fit
for any purpose. The kangaroo grass was up to my
middle and with a thick bottom. It is as fine
(02:26):
attractive land as any I have yet passed over. We
reached the settlement about four o'clock, and I learned, to
my extreme mortification that some of the natives had that
morning and the others that day previously quitted the settlement
in consequence of the threats made use of by the
(02:46):
man at the station, that he would shoot the natives.
I found that the natives had a few nights previously
stolen about a sack of potatoes out of the garden.
They had pulled up the roots and taken them potatoes,
and then planted the roots in the earth again, thinking
they should not be discovered and to prevent a repetition
(03:07):
of this conduct, the threats had been made use of
without the slightest intention of carrying them into execution. I found,
in answer to my inquiries, that no food of any
description had been given to the natives for the last
three months, that although there is abundance of fish at
Indented Head, yet there are no means of catching them,
(03:30):
and that the natives had no idea of making boats
or catamarans. February fifth, we started very early this morning,
under the expectation that we should see the natives, and
in order that they should not be frightened. I directed
Buckley to advance and we would follow him at the
distance of a quarter of a mile. Buckley made towards
(03:53):
a native well, and after he had ridden about eight miles,
we heard a koi, and when we arrived at the spot,
I witnessed one of the most pleasing and affecting sights.
There were three men, five women, and about twelve children.
Buckley had dismounted, and they were all clinging round him,
in tears of joy and delight running down their cheeks.
(04:15):
It was truly an affecting sight, and proved the affection
which these people entertained for Buckley. I felt much affected
at the sight myself, and considered it a convincing proof
of the happy results which will follow our exertions if
properly directed. Amongst the number were a little old man
(04:36):
and an old woman, one of his wives. Buckley told
me this was his old friend with whom he had
lived and associated thirty years. I was surprised to find
that this old man had not a blanket, and I
inquired the cause, and was much concerned to learn that
no blankets had been given him because he did not
(04:57):
leave that part of the country and proceed to du
Tagala for it. I could ill spare my blankets for him,
but I could not refrain from giving one of them
to Buckley, in order that he might give it to
his friend with an assurance that he should have further
clothing after our return. The men seemed much surprised at
(05:19):
the horses. I, however, after some little persuasion, induced the
youngest man to put his foot in the stirrup and
mount my gray mare, and I led the horse round
a few paces, to the great delight of the whole party.
I then coaxed the mare and put my face to
hers to show them they need not be afraid, And
(05:40):
then prevailed upon a young girl, about thirteen years of
age also to take a ride. As soon as the
horse began to move, she seemed very much alarmed, and
her countenance bespoke her fears, but she continued silent. We
gave them a few presents, and then left them to
proceed on our journey. I may here mention that so
(06:01):
soon as Buckley crossed the Saltwater River and obtained a
view of his own country, his countenance was much changed
from when we reached Geelong. He took the lead and
kept us upon a trot. He seemed quite delighted and
proud of his horse. When we quitted the natives, we
directed our course to the head of the Barhwan River.
(06:22):
This river is about two miles wide. There are breakers
on each side of the heads, like Port Philip. But
it appeared to me that there was a channel in
the center. We then proceeded through a fair country near
the margin of the river until we arrived at a
flat where the river is at least eight or nine
miles wide. At this flat there is some very good
(06:44):
native wells called Yanyan. We dined at this place and
continued our course near the river until we had crossed
over a very extensive marsh on the banks of the Barwan,
the extremity of number sixteen. We stopped at this place
all night and shot some wild fowls which we had
for our supper. Tom shot a large musk duck which
(07:06):
Buckley had for his supper. February sixth We started this
morning about six o'clock, and when we had got out
of the marsh, we saw Geelong Harbor and ascertained that
the distance from the harbor at the neck was not
more than four miles. We continued our course upon some
highland until we had reached the junction of the yawl
(07:28):
Oak and Barwan rivers. We then descended into a marsh
on the Yawl Oak left our horses. There, crossed the
Yawl Oak by a native track over a large tree,
and went across to the Barwan to a spot called
Buckley's Falls, where there is a large basin and the
river somewhat resembles the cataract and basin at Lanceston, but
(07:52):
upon a smaller scale. Buckley showed us the hollow tree
in which he used to live, in the places where
the native used to catch the fish in the winter season.
Mister Gardner, mister Leaky, mister Robertson, myself and mister Malcolm
crossed over the Cataract for the purpose of examining the
Barrabool Hills, which had presented a most inviting appearance in
(08:16):
our progress up the Barwan River. We passed over about
eight or nine miles and kept upon the high grounds
in order that we might see the surrounding country. We
found the herbage to be very good, and I think
the best sheep country we had passed over, and I
believed the other gentlemen were the same opinion. We were
(08:36):
compelled to cross the Barwan at the same spot. And
I should think from the appearance of the country that
the Barwan is a deep river about sixty feet wide
for many miles up in the winter, a large body
of water passes down it. We then crossed the Yalloak
and dined, and proceeded about twelve miles further up the
(08:58):
river for the purpose of ensians affecting the country, and
also searching for tracts of sheep, but without success. We
stayed in a small marsh on the banks of the
Aloak that night. The river at this part is only
a small running stream. Having a few spare potatoes, we
planted them in this marsh near the fire February seventh.
(09:22):
As soon as we made the rising ground this morning,
we took an observation of the Villamonada and Anarchy Hills.
We found that they were not correctly laid down. We
then proceeded direct for Anarchy Hills. We passed over a
tract of very fine land and found some water holes
at the foot of the Anarchy and the herbage. For
(09:43):
miles round and even up to the top of the
finest description, we reached the summit of the highest hill,
from which we had a beautiful view of the land
extending up towards the Ax, which appeared to be very
fine and well timbered, also of the Barrabou Hills, and
of the land in and about Geelong. We descended on
(10:07):
the north side passed along flat lands between the Anachy
and the Villamonta and left them four miles on the right.
We then came upon the Debaccarite, which enabled me to
continue the chain of ponds and where we dined, and
after dinner we rode across to Captain Swanston Station, which
(10:27):
we reached at sundown February eighth. We passed this morning
over to the upper part of number twelve in order
to continue the chain of ponds, which we traced up
to and over number eleven. We dined at the stock
hut at the ford, and after dinner passed about five
miles along the side line of number nine, and then
(10:49):
made an angle across to the settlement, which we reached
about four p m. And found that no vessel had
arrived during our absence. In the evening, some of the
natives came to the settlement and reported that a ship
was coming in. They also made us understand that they
had tracked us on the beach and followed us many miles,
(11:09):
and they had also seen the places where we had slept.
February ninth, a day. Late this morning, we heard the
report of guns from the ship, and shortly afterwards the
natives reported that a vessel was at anchor with three masts,
and concluding it was the Caledonia. Mister Ferguson went down
the river with mister Batman's boat. About eleven o'clock Captain
(11:34):
Symers of the Caledonia came up to the settlement. I
then arranged with him for a passage to Georgetown and
to be on board on Saturday afternoon. At two o'clock,
mister Ferguson, mister Leakey, mister Robertson, myself, Winfield, and Stuart,
one of the Sydney natives left the settlement for the
(11:56):
purpose of proceeding to the northward and exploring that part
of the count. We took with us four days supplies
and only two guns. My object in taking Stuart was
to prevent the possibility of any collision with the natives,
and that he might act as an interpreter. We proceeded
in a straight line through the lands reserved for the settlement,
(12:18):
in over number nine, and passing over number nine, we
crossed a chain of ponds extending a little to the northwest.
When we had reached the extremity of number nine and
were upon number seven, it was nearly dark, we observed
a tier of sheep hills to the right and concluded
that we should find water at the foot. And we
(12:39):
accordingly moved to the right and passed over about four
miles of very fine land, and just at dusk came
upon a chain of ponds, as we expected, where we
stayed all night. February tenth. We started this morning at daylight,
leaning to the right and ascending the sheep hills, so
(13:00):
that we might be enabled to obtain an extensive view
to the northeast. We traveled in this direction about four miles,
and from the summit of the hill we had an
extensive view of the country, composing numbers three and four.
In part of eight. The country appeared rather thickly wooded
towards number four, and particularly so over number eight. We
(13:22):
are enabled clearly to trace the course of the river
Yarra Yarra by the white fog. We then proceeded in
a westerly direction till we came to the chain of
ponds which I had particularly traced through number eight, and
the line of which I was then enabled to continue.
This chain of ponds I considered to be within a
mile of the sideline between number seven and number six.
(13:44):
The country and pasturage are here very fine and present
a desirable spot for an homestead, as I intended to
come back over numbers one and two, and within a
few miles of the spot I marked down on the
chart two Sugar Loaf Hills. The weather was exceedingly hot
this day, and we rested under a blanket tent for
(14:05):
some hours at the ponds. In the afternoon, we proceeded
in a westerly course over a continuation of plains. We
then ascended a rise, and from the summit obtained one
of the most beautiful views I ever saw, commanding a
full view of the junction near the settlement, the Bay Geelong, Villamonata,
(14:26):
and the Barboul Hills. I think it must have been
from this spot mister Hume had the first view of
Port Philip. After taking observations in the bearings of these
several places on the chart, we continued our course over
number six until we reached the Saltwater River or the
River Arndell, as called by mister Hume. We found the
(14:49):
land lightly timbered and fully equal to our expectations as
to quality. The country near the river is hilly and
full of glens and is well calculated for an extensive
sheep run. We continued our course on the high ground
and near the river for about five miles, and then
descended into a small marsh near Gum's Corner, where we
(15:11):
stayed all night February eleventh. We this morning crossed the
Salt Water River and took a westerly direction to the
summit of a flat top hill, which Stuart stated was
the hill from which mister Batman saw the native fires
upon his first visit, in which he called Mount Iramo.
(15:34):
We then proceeding over a running stream which nearly divides
Number five, we were detained some time waiting for mister Ferguson,
whose horse had lost a foreshoe. When he reached me,
I told him that as we were limited to time,
it was necessary we should push on, and I proposed
that he should mount Stuart's horse, and that Stuart should
(15:57):
lead his horse to the settlement. My object in doing
this was to afford him the opportunity of inspecting number
one and two in order that he might report thereupon
to Captain Swanston. And to accomplish this purpose I should
have deprived myself of Stuart's assistance mister Ferguson, without even
(16:18):
thanking me for the offer, observed that the black man
were very careless, and that he should not trust his
horse with him. Stuart had hitherto carried a double barreled
gun for the protection of the party. Mister Ferguson called
to Stuart to give him the gun, and he then
wished me good morning. During the whole of our journey
(16:40):
through the bush, the fires had at every instance been
produced from the phosphoric matches which mister Ferguson had, independent
of which he also carried a steel prepared punk. I
felt much surprised at his conduct, and, not knowing whether
we might experience any difficulty in obtaining fire, I said
(17:01):
to him, if you leave us, what shall we do
without your matches. He simply replied, oh, you will have
no difficulty in obtaining fire, and rode away and left me.
At this time we were not more than twenty two
miles from his tent. Mount Cotterill was in full view,
and he could easily have reached home that afternoon. We
(17:24):
then proceeded northwest about two miles, and as we were
desirous of seeing the land to the westward, we left
our horses with the servants and ascended the summit of
the sugar Loaf Hill about half a mile distant. We
had now only a single barreled gun for our production.
We then altered our course nearly due north and passed
(17:46):
over some very good plains, and near the foot of
a tier of hills, we crossed over two or three rivulets,
at one of which we dined. We then came to
a forest of gum and stringy bark, and, having ridden
about a mile and a half, we then altered our
course and proceeded deue east. On our way from the
forest to the line extending to the Villamonta Hills, we
(18:09):
passed over two other creeks which appeared to flow in
a southerly direction. We continued our course until we again
reached the Saltwater River. The land of number one is
very good and is well watered. We crossed three chains
of ponds about three miles distant from each other. We
stayed on the banks all night, and as we did
(18:31):
not reach the river till near dark and were fatigued,
we did not put up any hut or break wind.
About twelve at night we had a heavy thunderstorm and
by two o'clock we were all wet through February twelfth.
Mister Leaky and myself had slept upon the hills to
avoid the mosquitoes, and when we had descended into the
(18:54):
bottom we found the fire almost out. We roused the
party and were at length, with a greatest difficulty, enabled
to make the fire burn. It continued burning till daylight,
and we then dried our clothes, had some hot tea
across the river, and proceeded on our journey. We now
altered our course for the purpose of passing between the
(19:15):
two hills which I had marked down on the tenth,
and we arrived at the spot within a few minutes
of the time we expected, so that the chart must
be correctly laid down, and also our observation upon it.
About one mile from the river, we came upon a
most beautiful vale extending apparently several miles to the northward,
(19:38):
and extending over part of number six and seven. This
vale contains about twenty thousand acres of the richest quality
under the finest herbage I ever saw, and in my opinion,
far superior to any of the land upon number nine
or any of the sections. We found the continuation of
(19:58):
the rivulet, and then let it wound round the flat
topped hill, thereby affording a most eligible situation for our homestead.
We then continued our course to another hill near the
margin of number seven, which we passed over, and from
this hill we had the opportunity of proving the correctness
of the hills marked down by the observation. We then
(20:21):
continued our course about eight miles over fine feeding land,
and came upon a rapid stream of water flowing like
all the other rivers from the north to south. We
called this river the River Plenty, as it is the
only stream except the River Barwan deserving the name of river.
We dined at this river, and after proceeding about one
(20:44):
mile down it, in order to form an opinion as
to its course, and as we are desirous of reaching,
if possible, the River Yariara that afternoon. We then crossed
the river and made an easterly course through forest land
about six miles and until we came upon another rapid
stream flowing in a southerly direction, and which it was
(21:06):
impossible to cross in consequence of the hills and scrub
We then proceeded about a mile southeast when we were
again stopped by a small stream and found the land
very boggy. After proceeding about half a mile south and
one mile west along a high ridge, we determined to
cross if possible the stream, and which after much labor,
(21:29):
we accomplished, But finding it impossible to continue our course,
and the land between us and the Yar Yara being
very heavy and thickly wooded, we were compelled again to
recross the last stream, and as it was near six
in the evening with an appearance of rain, we thought
it most prudent to halt for the night and put
(21:50):
up a strong and secure tent to protect us from
the wet February thirteenth. When we awoke this morning, we found,
to our dismay that the horses, with the exception of
one mare, which had been tethered out, were missing. In
about an hour, Stuart returned informing us that he had
discovered the tracks and that the horses were all gone.
(22:13):
We were under an engagement to return to the settlement
by twelve o'clock. We calculated that we were distant about
seventeen miles in a straight line. We got our breakfast
and packed all the saddles. Upon the horse which had
been tethered out, and then proceeded in search of the
horses by following their tracks. And here the instinct of
(22:33):
that noble animal was most powerfully exhibited. The horses had
been a circuit of at least one hundred and twenty miles,
they had never been within ten miles of the spot
where we were stationed that night, and yet instead of
proceeding back upon their tracks, the horses made a direct
course for the settlement round the hills, with as much
(22:54):
care and sagacity as could have been manifested had they
been led by a native. We followed the tracks about
seven miles and until we came upon the banks of
the river Plenty, where we found the horses grazing. We
then saddled them, crossed the river, and continued the course
to the settlement, which we reached at five minutes past twelve.
(23:16):
Upon my arrival at the settlement, I found about a
hundred and fifty natives, and I learnt with much concern
that an act of aggression had been committed upon one
of the women, which required my immediate attention. Without waiting
to refresh myself or refit, I proceeded to the native
huts and ordered the persons supposed to be implicated to
(23:39):
be brought down. I found a young woman about twenty two,
lying on the ground, covered over with a kangaroo rug,
and suffering from a violent contusion on the back part
of her head, and which I understood had been inflicted
upon her by her husband. It appeared that she was
one of three wives that the Tree tribe had lately
(24:00):
been on the Saltwater River and near the shepherd's hut
on number ten. That this woman was proceeding towards the
settlement to see her mother and fell in with one
of the shepherds, who laid hold of her, brought her
to the hut, tied her hands behind her, and kept
her there all night, and either that night or the
next morning, abused her person. When she reached the settlement,
(24:23):
she communicated to her friends the injury she had sustained,
and they immediately apprised Buckley of it, expecting to obtain redress.
The natives are particularly jealous respecting their women, and they
consider any intercourse of this kind as a contamination, and
in every case punished the woman, frequently even to death.
(24:45):
The natives, men, women, and children assembled around me I
explained to them through Buckley our determination in every instance
to punish the white man and to protect the natives
to the utmost of our but we are not allowed
to beat them as they had the woman, but would
send them to their own country to be punished. The
(25:08):
woman was then raised and the two men placed before her,
and Buckley asked her if either of these men had
ill treated her person. She replied no, and I then
inquired whether she had ever seen them before. She replied yes,
They were in the hut when the other man brought
her in with her hands tied. I then inquired of
(25:29):
the overseer and found that a third man was at
the hut but had not been brought down. I then
explained to the two men the wickedness of their conduct
and how justly they would be punished if the natives
had inflicted an injury upon them, and gave orders that
as soon as fresh shepherds could be obtained, they should
(25:50):
be removed from the settlement under the terms of their indentures.
I directed the other man to be immediately sent for,
and if the woman identified him as the aggress that
he should be removed from the settlement by the first
ship and be publicly taken away as a prisoner. I
directed Buckley to explain to the whole tribe the course
(26:10):
which I directed to be pursued, and I could perceive
by the expression of their countenances that they were highly satisfied.
I then endeavored to make the poor woman understand how
much I commiserated with her situation, and I tied round
her neck a red silk handkerchief, which delighted her exceedingly.
(26:31):
Footnote The manuscript and the possession of the trustees of
the Public Library ends here, and the following passages are
printed from the imperfect copy of Gellibrand's journal given in
volume three of the Transactions of the Philosophical Society of Victoria.
(26:52):
End footnote missing portion, All of the party missing portion,
and we all went in the captain's boat to the
mouth of the river and reached the missing portion. Sixteenth February.
By daylight. This morning, we were visited on board by
(27:13):
four of our own tribe in mister Batman's whale boat.
The natives appeared much pleased with their visit and surprised
at the appearance of the vessel. They remained on board
about a quarter of an hour when having obtained a
supply of biscuit, they left us at Missing Portion o'clock.
The vessel was under way Missing Portion, and proceeded towards
(27:39):
the sea. Mister Escourt came to anchor near the settlement
at Indented Head. When we were near Arthur's seat, it
became necessary to work the vessel through a narrow passage
about four miles long. This passage is not more than
a mile and a half wide in some places, and
the missing portion in the evening, so that the captain
(28:02):
was afraid to proceed to see that night lest we
should be driven upon Cape Ottway, and in consequence came
to anchor about three miles from the heads under the
lee of the land. Seventeenth February. We got under weigh
at daylight and made a safe passage between the heads
of Port Philip Missing Portion. About eleven o'clock at night
(28:27):
we reached White's Hotel at Launceston observations. The Natives are
a fine race of men, many of them handsome in
their persons and all well made. They are strong and athletic,
very intelligent and quick in their perceptions. Missing portion, preparing meat,
(28:51):
Missing portion. The women and especially the young ones are
particularly modest in their behavior and also in their dress.
They all appear to be well disposed and very fond
of bread and potatoes. In the winter season, they live
principally on fishing game. Upon the Missing Portion appearance of
(29:13):
the country, I feel persuaded that they must exert themselves
considerably in obtaining subsistence. And from their extreme partiality to
bread and potatoes, I feel not the slightest doubt, but
that they may be all brought to habits of industry
and civilization. When the mode of obtaining potatoes and wheat.
(29:35):
Missing Portion country is generally Missing Portion, open flat Champagne country,
with abundance of verdure in well watered it far exceeds
my expectations, although I was prepared to expect something very superior.
I consider the representations of mister Batman fully born out,
(30:00):
and from the account given by Buckley, I am disposed
to believe Missing Portion. I this day Missing Portion settlement
at Port Philip, Having taken a trip over in the
Adelaide with some of my sheep, I found the young
woman before spoken of living at the settlement with her
(30:21):
husband and his other wives. She had quite recovered from
the contusion, and her husband was again reconciled to her
end of Section fifty seven.
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