Episode Transcript
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This is the Industry Insider Podcast, brought to you by Cuvée, the Napa Winery Guide, powered
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by Preferably, with your host, Andrew Allison.
All right, all right, all right.
Welcome back to another episode of Napa Valley Insider.
I'm Andrew Allison.
I'm the CEO of Cuvée, a Napa Winery Guide app.
We make this podcast in partnership with Highway 29 Media.
I am so excited to introduce today's guest.
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Who are you and what do you do?
I'm Darrell Bell of State Land Roads Smokehouse, and I'm the chef, chef and co-founder.
Chef, it is so nice to meet you in person.
Congrats on all of the acclaims.
I can't wait to get in them.
But I had an opportunity to read a little bit about your story because you were named
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one of Napa Valley's most intriguing people of 2024.
And when I read your story, I was like, I cannot wait to have a chance to meet you in
person.
So thanks for jumping on today.
Could you just rewind the clocks?
What is your origin story?
How did you get here?
How did you become who you are today?
It's a loaded one.
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But yeah, no, it's I mean, I think I started probably at eight years old.
That's when I first started doing my real cooking.
This was a family of six of us, and we're constantly eating big pots of lentils and
hot water cornbread and just trying to stretch, stretch to meals that feed everyone.
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And so that's truly, that's truly how it started was with me taking on one of those meals and
just doing doing the lentils one time.
And then, you know, it was from what I remember, it was OK.
And then seeing seeing that next time around.
OK, how can I improve these lentils?
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And once I just kept pushing the bar, getting it better and better, I kind of got got the
affirmation from, you know, from from my parents, at least, you know, that what I was making
was was really good, you know, in comparison to how they were cooking lentils for years.
So from there, I was like, you know, this is just that excitement, that joy, that passion
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and love for it just continued to grow.
And where were you born and raised?
I was born and raised in Kansas City, Missouri.
And what brought you out to the West Coast?
I went to work for Chef Keller.
So I came out here, worked with the TKR Thomas Keller Restaurant Group for seven years.
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And yeah, I was the executive at Bouchon in the winter months would work at French Laundry.
Yeah, that's that's the reason for moving out here.
What was it like coming of age inside of an organization that is so renowned?
I tell people it was a lot like boot camp, like an army boot camp.
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It was it's not for everyone, for sure.
But you know, the method that I that I that I would think that I attribute to it is that
they almost break you down like boot camp to build you up how how they want you to be.
So no bad habits.
These are the habits we want you to learn.
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Correct.
Yeah, yeah, they they break down all those bad habits and, you know, show you and train
you how how you should be.
And you know, I was so fortunate for that, because once you have that, there's no going
back, you know, even when you leave the group, when you're at home, you know, even to this
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day, I'm still cutting the tape at home, still labeling items in home refrigerators.
You know, it's all my clothes are color coordinated.
Everything's just it never leaves you.
So Thomas Keller himself, Chef Keller, his reputation is the perfectionist.
How would you describe working in one of those kitchens?
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Is it very much that?
I would say so, for sure.
You know, my time was spent majority between Chef Filtessier and Chef Ross Melling between
those two chef cuisines.
They very much so upheld that that that idea in that that pursuit of perfection.
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And you know, it's as TK always says, you know, it's it's the it's the idea of perfection,
you know.
What was the first time you thought you were totally getting fired?
I don't know if I don't know if I ever had a moment.
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I actually never had a moment like that for the Thomas Keller group.
I did have moments where I was like, OK, I don't feel like I'm getting this as quick
as I want to.
It was just a completely it's just a high bar.
Yeah.
And you know, it was you know, I was learning a completely different ticket system in terms
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of like order in fire, off fire, back on fire system that I wasn't seeing, you know, in
the restaurants that I worked at before.
So I was trying to learn that whole thing with the menu and the high expectations and
the everything else.
And I when I came in from Kansas City, I went straight.
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To what's called the garbage station.
Typically you kind of get brought in, you go to oyster bar.
This was at Bichon.
You go in the oyster bar, comey and kind of get your feet wet.
But I was put right in there.
And it was the first time that they'd done that.
And so they were like, I felt a little bit more pressure to because people were like,
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what would you do to get this?
And I'm like, dude, nothing.
I think it's obviously it's all worked out.
And let's talk a little bit about where did you turn in?
When did you make the decision?
Was it a slow burn or was it a snap decision?
I am ready to go hang my own shingle and start a restaurant.
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Maybe you can share with the folks that don't know.
What did you start and what helped you make the decision to start it?
So at the time when when the initial idea came about, I mean, my wife had been telling
me for years prior to just open a barbecue place that has the type of barbecue that I'm
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used to and that I grew up with and those flavors.
But I really pushed that aside for the longest time.
Just being from Kansas City growing up there.
In my mind, it seemed like it'd be a step back to do all the training, work in France,
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work out here and then just go back and just do barbecue.
So it took a second until I could get my head around.
All right.
It doesn't have to be barbecue the way it's been done for centuries.
I could do this my style.
It doesn't have to be the guy that's got his arms crossed and pissed off and angry and
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trying to look tough.
Like, why are we angry guys?
We're like we're smoking meats.
So that was that was my my light bulb moment of make this your own.
I don't have to neglect the Michelin and the fine dining and everything I've learned.
I can kind of bring that right alongside it.
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Yeah.
That's so funny because when we talk about your origin story, you totally glossed over
it.
And if you weren't listening, you missed it.
But you you had a whole stint in France.
Could you just share a little bit about that?
And you did that before the Keller Organization?
Yeah.
Yeah, that's correct.
OK.
Yeah.
So it's in Kansas City running a restaurant in the Western Hotel where I did my apprenticeship
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at.
And when I graduated and finished there, went straight to France, and my my thinking on
that was you'd give a chef, you know, you'd say to the chef, all right, do this six course
meal.
And they knock it out.
They're like, OK, I got this.
It's super nice.
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You're like, all right, now let's do two desserts.
And there's like, well, you know, and it's just whipped cream with fruit or it's like
some custard or something.
So I was pinpointing the weaknesses of the chefs that I was seeing around me and saying,
I guess I'm identifying that pastries and sweets in the anything outside of the room
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with savory is a bit of a weakness or problematic and not a strength.
So I said in France or here for the chefs in the states.
Yeah.
So what I what I decided was, all right, if I want to get an edge above the others, I
should just master something that they're struggling at.
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Yeah.
And identify for myself as well.
What is my weakness?
And say, all right, you know, am I going to duck and dodge to master for master class
and EQ?
You have to give yourself the most candid feedback.
Yeah.
Just hit it head on.
So that's what I did.
And so how long were you in France and where in France did you go?
Did you did you understudy a chef?
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Yeah, I was in the south of France.
I was there just under six months and I did straight pastries.
And then when I had the time, I just go stodging different different restaurants.
That piece was that piece was difficult, at least in the first first month, because my
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my French wasn't wasn't quite there at the time.
But by the time I left, I could speak French pretty solidly, which is nice.
From a pop culture standpoint, you see shows like The Bear or some of these Netflix movies.
Yeah.
How do you find them?
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In terms of accuracy to what living the life actually is.
The reality shows, I stay clear from those.
I don't.
I just, you know, I stay away from those.
The Bear, I did watch the first season of that, just the first season.
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I saw and found that that was really accurate and probably one of the most accurate TV shows
that that was that was out there.
The movie burnt with with Bradley Cooper.
That was that was probably the most realistic movie that I'd seen at the time.
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He had given himself the punishment of shucking like a million oysters at the start of the
movie.
That piece is a little funny.
Well, you probably shuck a million oysters at Bouchon.
So I checked a lot of oysters, that's for sure.
I was fortunate enough to skip over that skate station, so I went straight to Garmouge.
But I still, you know, in the course of my time, they're shuck tons of oysters, which
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is fun.
But yeah, yeah.
In terms of The Bear, that's a that's a pretty solid and realistic depiction.
You know, some say they get PTSD.
I don't I don't feel that for restaurants and for kitchens.
And obviously, I am not somebody who can put together an amazing meal.
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Far from it.
But I've always been infatuated with the entrepreneurial journey.
Some of these folks that have made a career out of being a chef.
I mean, Bourdain's is is famous.
But Gordon Ramsay and so many of these other people have just made what have effectively
become media empires, culinary careers that are just where they've all gone on this similar
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journey that you're on now, where they've gone to France, they've studied, they've learned,
and they've just just through a process of watching the people in the generation before
them learn how to cook or learn how to put together a robust program.
What were some of the pieces that you felt were critical that you brought into your new
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business?
And then you can maybe you could tell us a little bit about your new business.
I think the piece is most critical to state line smokehouse that that I had to ensure
were brought in were were discipline, consistency and being efficient.
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I think consistency is really high up there because if I can make a rib or brisket one
day, but you know, the guests love it.
And then two weeks later, they come in that those ribs or brisket tastes different.
I've never had a bad meal at your place.
So I'm pressed assured it seems seems consistently excellent.
So yeah, yeah.
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So consistency there.
Discipline in terms of you have to make sure make sure that everyone understands what the
mission is.
And I tell it to him just like that.
You know, the mission is if this is a game, we're going for Super Bowl.
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And it's fine that everyone here may not make it to Super Bowl with us.
Because everyone knows the mission.
And if they can't get us there, it's fine.
You know, I will help get them to a new place where they can succeed in their own career.
But this is a team of stars.
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How so we spoke a little bit about your wife.
You shared a little bit about your wife encouraging you to start Stateline.
What was the catalyst that made you decide now?
I think that started roughly around 2022.
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So right out of COVID right out of COVID.
Like Napa's got a bunch of whack barbecue.
I'm going to fill the gap in the market.
Well, no, I mean, yeah, no.
Yeah, and I always say, you know, there's tons of barbecue out here.
It's just different for everyone.
And you know, there's things that people enjoy out here for barbecue.
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The type I'm used to.
I was like, it's it's not quite here.
So that's when I was like, I should just do it.
And around 2022, that's kind of where where I saw the piece where I was looking at the
restaurants that were still busy during COVID and I was seeing, OK, well, some of the finer
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dining restaurants, they're struggling to fill seats.
And that's when I was like, I think the move here is to create something that's a little
bit more pandemic proof, recession proof, all this in order to in order to have a business
that could sustain during all those times.
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Yeah.
Up markets, down markets.
You just want to stay consistently busy.
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Tax ID nine three dash four six six two seven four four.
Cheers.
I think when you think about consistency, you see folks like the Hillstone Group have
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found a lot of success.
You've seen no matter what the name on the sign is, if you know it's a Hillstone property,
you have a rough idea what the menu is, you have a rough idea what the floor plan, the
food service, the cadence, the tempo.
I think they've done a really nice job of affordable high end dining that's not the
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top tier of everything.
Wonderful wine list, equally consistent service.
Do you see yourself in that category or is it a different category?
You see the consistency at the in and out size business, huge distribution, very stable
supply chain, great products.
So the in and outs, the Hillstones, how do you fit in the different price points?
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How do you think about check size as a business?
Yeah, I think in terms of the check range for the guests, I want them to have the option
to come in and get like a $12 salad or walk out getting salad sides for 20, 20 something
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bucks.
Very affordable.
Exactly.
As well as if they want to splurge a little bit in December, just for December, I give
people that option where I was doing whole prime rib.
That's so good.
They can do truffles, all that.
So I give those options as well.
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But in general, I want the theme of the restaurant to be affordability where you know you can
come, it'll be consistent, it'll be affordable so you can come frequently and it'll just
be tasty.
And I think the biggest thing for me is as well in terms of getting a great meal for
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affordable prices, I always say I want to be the like the the shape and ease that Alice
Waters of barbecue and that every item on our menu is source.
Like a lot of the places they just use commodity stuff but my pork butts come from Andros
Farms, my ribs are coming from Prairie Fresh Farms, the brisket, Dimkota, everything.
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You're out there looking at the actual product.
It's sourced, yeah.
So it costs me more.
I try not to share that to the guest and make them feel that and pay for that.
But you're hoping to make it back on the retention of the consumer.
That's exactly it.
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Let's get in the weeds of making a business in Napa.
What were some of the hardest moments either before you open your doors or just after you
open your doors that maybe you had a oh man this isn't great moment?
I think before opening the doors was the the process of permitting.
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I was told already well ahead like yeah it's gonna buckle up.
Yeah that's exactly what they said.
They said buckle up.
It's gonna be it's gonna take you a long time.
I was like yeah yeah I'm aware and you know but I was like you know.
They've made some changes some adjustments.
It'll be faster and to the city's credit they definitely made adjustments and they hired
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in people and they fast tracked a lot of things for us.
The process just when you have to deal with different entities from the city communicating
to the county vice versa it just it just naturally just takes a lot longer.
So our process granted the building itself was a big piece of it but it took two years
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for us to get open.
Wow and when you set out you did you think oh I can do this in a year or 18 months?
They told us when we started you know it takes them around like a year and four months and
I was like all right cool all right it's gonna be probably like a year and a half maybe you
know.
Some buffer yeah.
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Some buffer there and when I saw that year two months ago and they get upset year and
a half.
And you're like I still got the final boss.
I'm not even there yet.
Yeah yeah.
Oh god.
And you're still paying you're still paying on the building every single month without
anything coming in.
Yeah and I think inevitably that's where it feels quite criminal but where I just wish
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there was a bit more accountability was the speed or the velocity that they had to reply
to entrepreneurs.
Entrepreneurs work with a high tempo urgency because every day is life or death for your
business.
The people that support the industry deserve to have days off in other aspects but they
don't hold the urgency of helping an entrepreneur achieve their goals.
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How do you see the business now?
You've been working on the business since 22 and you've been open for less than a year.
How do you see the business evolving now?
I see the next kind of evolution for the business going from where we are now which is known
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across Napa and Bay Area which is great because you need that especially during the winter
season.
I was fully aware of that that's why I started writing the farmers markets when I started
off for this.
But I see the next step of this process going across the country.
So in terms of reaching the markets and demographics that are in different regions across the country
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whether it's New York Times and all these Good Morning America whatever it is I see
that being the piece because every time there's a hit out here the restaurant sees it fills
it dramatically.
So if we can have that push across the states we'll see that same impact as well.
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I think again the James Beard thing that came out today I think that will help definitely
drive that national recognition.
So tell the folks that are unaware what came out today for yourself from James Beard.
So this morning my wife woke me up actually told me she's like I was just voted nominated
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for a semi-finalist for James Beard best chef in California.
That's amazing.
That is no small feat.
Now it's almost like this coming of age story.
You grow up in the Midwest running a restaurant go to France you go work for Keller and you
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open your own business you finally get it open after all the work and to wake up today
and just happened to be the day that you have to be on here to find out you were nominated
for a James Beard award.
I mean that must feel like years in the making.
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It truly is.
It truly is.
Definitely humbled because you know I know a lot of great restaurants great chefs even
better than I am that you know maybe weren't on that list this time around.
They'll be there I'm sure in the following years.
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So humble that you know I did get on there.
But again you know for me I see it as I see it as a vision in terms of I see what the
goal is for me and my path was kind of choose chosen when I was roughly 19 working in Kansas
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City when the head chef quit.
Someone else came in and introduced me and made me known had me learn of Patrick Clark
who's the first black chef to win a James Beard award.
So that was always my goal since 19.
So all these years later that's been the goal.
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So to see it happen today is one step of the process.
So a lot more to do.
And are there other things that are on your vision board that you hope to achieve in the
years ahead.
Yeah.
And this year specifically to get from the semifinalists which I got today to the finalist
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which I believe they announced in April.
And is that a community led vote or is it just a closed door.
I'm not sure how this election process works.
It's closed door so there's no which is fortunate you know like I don't I don't believe in the
get as many friends and family to vote you in however.
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But then it's just a popularity contest.
That's what it is.
And some have bigger reaches than others.
So I think it's great that the James Beard Foundation who's distinguished in kind of
what they do.
They're the ones choosing choosing that.
So that is a goal for me for this year to get to that finalists and beyond.
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And then as well in I think this year will be in October to get recognized with Michelin
the Michelin Guide.
OK.
Well you've certainly worked at some establishments that understand the Michelin ecosystem.
When you think about the wine industry how does your business fit into Napa Valley's
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wine industry.
Yeah I think kind of with everything that I want to do for this restaurant it's all
centered around kind of building a I call it a an ecosystem or kind of like a micro
economy.
So you know I use St. Clair Brown right next door to do a custom beer for us.
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I use Rancho Gordo right around the corner for two dishes on our menus.
So promoting local businesses through your business.
That's exactly it.
So it goes right in hand with the wines when we're using like O'Copy wine for it goes right
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in hand.
So when we're using like O'Copy winery and pouring that by the glass obviously when we're
using Brown Estate and pouring that by the glass just just a lot of a lot of local love
that we're giving and you know we rotate it constantly to make sure we spread that because
tons of wineries out here.
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Do you anticipate your menu will be fixed in in structure or do you think it'll change
seasonally.
And I know some of the places you've worked at have changed menus even midseason.
So how do you think about your menu long term.
Yeah I think long term I see it as I see it as a QSR model.
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So similar to like a Chipotle where you have your short abbreviated menu that has your
items that are there your core items if you will.
And from there you can change it up and add in different specials.
Sure.
And that's that's mostly what I do with it.
So the dessert that changes each season we've already done gone from peach to apple you
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know in the next couple months we'll probably go into like some type of berry or or so.
But and then in terms of specials you know like we did the prime rib how much you color
bronzini starts again tomorrow octopus.
It just it just just and all those are more so for selfish reasons if you will.
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So I don't get bored.
Nobody nobody would tell you more if you're not building a business in a space that you
love like it.
It's the dark days are dark and you need to be truly obsessed with what you're doing to
pull yourself through.
But when things are great you're having more fun than you've ever had.
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And I would tell that to any entrepreneur you need to do something you truly deeply
love and it sounds like you found a little bit of something you love there and you don't
need an excuse.
From a QSR model standpoint so QSR quick service restaurant into modern day vernacular for
fast food but that fast casual dining of the Chipotle.
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Do you see your business becoming a franchise or do you see yourself being a little bit
more like in and out where you just have multiple locations that similar follow a similar playbook.
How how do you think about the growth of your business in the years ahead.
Yeah so franchising is not is not the path that I choose to do for sure.
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But having multiple locations so much in and out is is the model there.
The goal right now is 10 locations 10 years 50 million revenue 100 million valuation.
From a capital investment standpoint how how have you thought about the capital markets
with this business.
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I mean to get the raise it was you know and you know we still have a small bridge loan
that we just need to you know pay off but and that's 500 500 K but we've raised already
1.5 million.
So you know our raise was just over 2 million and we were able to do that and take the loan
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just to get us open and now we just slowly pay that off.
I think you know in terms of second location third location those will probably be a smaller
footprint so the the capital needed for those will be a lot smaller.
So I see our you know kind of our our ROI for everything being a little bit more more
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friendly for the for the future investors as well.
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(31:19):
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Yeah definitely I think the the learnings from zero to one at your first location and
going from two to ten you're gonna have a lot more of what's working.
I mean so much of what starts out in your mind's eye as an entrepreneur and then you
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get real-time market feedback.
Yes what you carry on from two through ten is going to be definitely different.
When you think about the things that would make your business grow a bit more is there
somebody you're looking to hire is there a capital partner you hope to work with.
What would help you get to the next step.
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I feel for for next steps as mentioned you know kind of that natural sorry that natural
reach is kind of the the piece that I see getting you that sustained momentum.
Is that like a national acclaim.
Yeah national acclaim whether it's James Beard Michelin but you know people that have kind
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of that that wide audience as well.
That look outside credibility.
Hey this is this is legit over here.
Yeah yeah even the you know it's funny because our food doesn't quite line up but like the
if you will the the guy fear is that you know use their platform and you know propel and
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essentially just getting the eyeballs on the restaurant and people can make their choices
from there but it's just getting getting those eyeballs on the restaurant so we can showcase
what we do.
That makes a ton of sense when you think back to a younger version of yourself what do you
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wish somebody had told you or what do you wish that you had listened to that you didn't
listen to at the time.
Wow that's stuff.
Man wow.
How much time do you have.
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For entrepreneurial trauma I got all day.
Yeah let's see I think possibly something I wish someone would have told me starting
a little bit earlier is you know.
And he's.
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I mean it's a journey it's not a destination but yeah when you say start earlier do you
mean that you wish you started your entrepreneurial journey earlier.
No I think maybe that I would have learned a lesson I could have learned sooner.
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I think maybe it would have been focusing on saying true to yourself.
I think that would have been a piece you know maybe not so much in the entrepreneurial piece
of it but the the years leading up to it in that you kind of get caught up in the in the
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industry and in that world of you know high intensity high level and you feel in some
ways like you have to be a certain way for people to hear and to understand and to get
through to some.
And I think in some ways at certain points I lost a bit of my kindness that Midwest piece
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of myself by by kind of buying fully into that which now I'm kind of getting back to
to how it should have always been and how I should be.
So chef how are you thinking about philanthropy and either short term or long term with your
business.
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I think I think the only way I see it is as long term same with everything it has to be
sustainable to the business.
That's what it is everything has to be sustainable.
I don't move on anything unless like economically sustainable not just like save the planet
sustainable.
That's correct.
Yes like everything before I make any move any step any decision I have to make sure
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it's sustainable in terms of me being able to execute that and do that for years to come.
So philanthropy I personally started doing this about 10 years ago when I started a barbecue
sauce and so I started that company state line root barbecue sauce selling just the
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sauces in stores.
And I think the biggest difference difference with the philanthropy that I was doing and
do is it started when I didn't have anything.
It started when I was making 825 an hour right up the street and you know I obviously could
(36:36):
have used you know any and every extra cash but I think true philanthropy should come
from a heart that says do more for others and that's exactly what happened.
And so what does the philanthropy do now.
So now we give 10 percent in addition to Rafiki where it started of all proceeds now we give
(36:58):
an additional to no kid hunger as well.
And so Rafiki is the sauce brand.
So Rafiki is a company or sorry a not for profit foundation that helps orphans and widows
in 10 different countries in Africa and that's the very first organization I started giving
to when I started the sauce and then when I got some traction and you know could generate
(37:24):
some more money to again keep it sustainable then I added in no kid hungry and we've just
been yeah it's that that's the greatest piece for me is when I can look back and see what's
been.
You were able to contribute to contributed.
Yeah and so state line road smokehouse how do you ladder into that philanthropy initiative
(37:47):
now is there something that the business does today and what is that exactly.
So we still so I still give everything from that company to to those two foundations.
So we obviously go through a lot of barbecue sauce.
We have a retail shop there where we sell the jars everything online now and 10 percent
(38:10):
of sales go to amazing.
From being a business owner in Napa I believe you are the only black owned restaurant in
Napa is that correct.
Well we were the first black owned restaurant yeah since the 1800s or so.
Wow.
(38:31):
Yeah so it was it's been a long a long ride.
A long time coming.
Yeah exactly.
So yeah we open doing at least our initial pop up and first location inside of Oxbow
that put us on the that made us the very first and then we just transfer that over to our
(38:53):
to our next location which we are at now on Vallejo Street and we've that's that's what
we we are that's where.
Has it been daunting in a way that you didn't anticipate of being the first black owned
restaurant that it has come to happen over 100 years.
(39:17):
I don't know about daunting.
I think it's been it's been a great privilege.
It's been one that I carry with a bit of a weight to make sure I uphold it.
And is it a stewardship burden that you would describe.
I would say so.
Yes.
Yeah.
And you know every time you know you you get the ones that are coming in and they say hey
(39:39):
you know we're here just for you.
We're here because we want to support you.
We're here.
You're the first black owned and or others that are like oh we came just for this.
But now that we're here we realize this is just so great as well.
So it's kind of like a win win.
Yeah.
And that's a piece where I get really happy to know that it's commuting like people are
(40:04):
understanding.
Yeah.
What's happening.
Chef Darryl Bell thank you so very much for coming on today.
State Line Road Smokehouse.
Where can people come visit you.
What are your social handles and how can they follow your story or come taste your meats.
All right.
So obviously they can go to the website as well for all the information.
(40:28):
But our address is 8 7 2 Vallejo Street.
We're on Vallejo Street in your home a couple of blocks north of downtown Napa.
The handles there state line road underscore smokehouse on Instagram as well as Darryl
underscore Bell underscore J.R. on Instagram as well.
And yeah we'll open our doors everyone can't wait.
(40:48):
Jeff thank you so much for jumping on today.
Thanks on the semifinal nomination and the James Beard award as of news as of this morning.
Again I'm Andrew Allison I'm the CEO of Cuvet we're a Napa winery guide app and we make
this podcast in partnership with Highway 29 Media.
Thank you thank you thank you.
Go check out chef spells food.
(41:08):
Cheers.
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