September 25, 2025 • 32 mins
Join Isabel Anderson on a captivating journey through Hawaii and the Philippines, as she shares a fascinating travelogue that doubles as a rich history lesson. This book is a treasure trove for anyone intrigued by the South Pacific, offering a compelling glimpse into the transformations that have taken place since Mrs. Andersons travels. Prepare to be enthralled by her vivid storytelling and insightful observations.
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Speaker 1 (00:00):
Section fourteen of the Spell of the Hawaiian Islands and
the Philippines by Isabel Andersen. This librifox recording is in
the public domain recording by William tom Coe The Spell
of the Hawaiian Islands and the Philippines by Isabel Andersen,
Section fourteen, Chapter six, dog Eaters and Others. The natives
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of the Philippines are Malays, as I have said, but
they are sometimes classified as Christian, Pagan and Mohammedan Malays.
The Christian and educated tribes live near the coast on
the lowlands and are called Filipinos. They have intermarried greatly
with the Spaniards and Chinese. There are twenty seven non
Christian tribes in the islands, about four hundred thousand in
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number in the mountain province of Luzon alone. These hill
people are seldom seen, although during the last few years
most of the tribes have come under government influences and
head hunting has been more or less given up. These
dwellers in the mountains include the Aborigines who were driven
out of the valleys by the Malays, and also the
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Malays of the earlier migration who refused to embrace the
Mohammedanism of the Moros of the Southern Islands, or the
Christianity of the Spaniards. We were fortunate in having the
opportunity to see some of the dog eaters and other
hill people. Our party was divided, and while several of
the men went into the heart of the head hunting country,
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the rest of us took the train to Baggio, the
mountain capital. What a night it was. The heat was frightful,
and swarms of mosquitoes added to the torture. But at sunrise,
as I sat on the back platform while the train
steamed through rows of cocoanut palms, past little huts and stations,
I was reminded of this verse. Mighty, luminous and calm
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is the country of the palm, crowned with sunset and
sun sunrise, under blue, unbroken skies, waving from green zone
to zone over wonders of its own, trackless, untraversed, unknown,
changeless through the centuries, leaving the tropics behind, we climbed
up up among the glorious mountains. At last, the train
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stopped at a little station, and we took the motors
that were waiting and went on higher and higher into
cloud land, where the tall pines grew and the mountains
rose into the sky. We had indeed ascended into paradise
from purgatory. As one resident in Manila expressed it, the
heavenly coolness, the sweet pine air, and the exquisite scenery
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give you new life after the year spent in the heat, glare,
dust and smells of the lowlands. We were passing over
the far famed Banguette Road, one of the finest highways
in the world, which wound in and out through the
gorges of the mountains, repeatedly crossing the river that roared beneath.
For twenty miles, we zigzagged up the slopes, with widening
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views of great hills opening before us and cascades bursting
out from beneath the mountains, till we came out on
the plateau of Bangio, five thousand feet above the sea.
This road, which has been a favorite theme for discussion
by politicians, was open to traffic in nineteen o five.
It is true that the cost of the roadway was
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beyond what anybody had anticipated, on account of the many
bridges that had to be repaired each year after the
rainy season, and also after the destructive typhoons that sweep
over the island. One in nineteen eleven brought a rainfall
of forty six inches in twenty four hours, which hurled
avalanches of debris from the mountain slopes. For this reason,
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a new road from Baoang to Bagaio has been commenced,
but nearly so direct, but requiring only a few bridges,
and it is to be hoped will prove successful and
more economical than the other. Baggio, in the midst of
glorious mountain scenery, where the temperature never goes above eighty
and the knights are deliciously cool, really is an ideal
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health resort for a tropical country. The Philippines have mister
Worcester and mister Forbes to thank for this blessing. Government
buildings were erected and the whole force of the government
was moved up there for the hot season. With the
rich return of the improved health and greater efficiency of
the employees, a hospital for tuberculosis was built and a
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much needed school for American children. The Jesuit Observatory was established,
and Camp John Hay was laid out as a permanent
military post. Many people bought land and put up little bungalows.
A teacher's camp was started by the Bureau of Education
for American teachers from all over the Islands, where they
had not only rest and recreation, but the metal brushing
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up of good lectures after months in lowly stations. When
the Democratic Administration began its changes in the Philippines, government
offices were ordered to be kept in Manila throughout the year. Consequently,
only the higher officials were able to go to Boggio,
with a result patent to every one in the lessened
efficiency of the force. But within the last two or
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three years, the Filipinos have come to appreciate the place,
which was a revelation to them. Now rich and poor
managed to go there, and they have taken possession. The
benefits of Baggaio and the Benguette Road are felt even
in Manila, where Americans are beginning to get fresh garden peas,
summer squash, wax beans, and real strawberries. Our friend writes,
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if the time ever comes when we can have real
cow's milk and cream, then our food will be as
good as anywhere in the States. We had a glorious
week at Topside. Governor Forbes attractive Bungalow and speedily became
as usiastic in our praises of Boggio as everyone else
who has ever been there. I rode all day long
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on Black Crook, the most perfect polo pony in the world,
through the mists and the sunlight, and into the rainbow
shades of the setting sun, where the clouds turned the
color of cockatoos wings and the tints of the fish
from the China Sea. Cloud maidens that float on forever
dew sprinkled fleet bodies and fair let us rise from
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our sire's loud river, great Ocean, and soar through the
air to the peaks of pine covered mountains, where the
pines hang as tresses of air. I played my first
polo game at Baggio on the club grounds. Squash Pie,
Calico Pie, and other delightful names were given to the
native ponies, which are small but very strong. We went
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to the government stock farm where they are trying experiments
in breeding horses. They had a native pony there that
had been well fed and taken care of for some time,
in order to show the difference between it and the
forlorn animals that one might see anywhere in the towns.
The native Spanish pony has greatly degenerated. At this farm,
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they had a beautiful Arabian stallion and a Morgan stallion
from Vermont. It is said that the first generation of
American horses does well in the Philippines, but after that
the climate and the change in food cause them to deteriorate. Besides,
they are rather too big for mountain cavalry. The Arabian
stallion and the Native mare are said to breed the
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best kind of horse for this country. Black Scotch cattle
and Australian cattle, which are raised at the government farm
do well. Sheep do not pay for to begin with.
There is no market for the wool. Goats do well,
and goat's milk is in great demand. The natives used
principally the carabao and the native cattle, which look like
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small Jersey cows house but are not very good. Another day,
Missus Whitmarsh from Boston gave us a tea in a
little house hung with orchids and Japanese lanterns, and we
visited mister Whitmarsh's gold mine. Some of us went on
horseback down into the valley to see the tunnels. We
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washed a pan of war in the brook and found
at the bottom little fine gold specks. The Benguette Igorots
have mined gold for centuries. At Baggio, we visited missionary
and government schools and Camp John Hay, where Captain Hillgard
gave us a reception. At the government school, the Igorot
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boys are taught, among other things, to make attractive mission furniture,
while the girls learn to weave and very pretty things
they make. These girls wear short blue skirts and little jackets,
and have their hair in two long black braids that
hang on either side of their faces. A Turkish towel
worn as a turban on which to rest burdens seemed
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to be the fashion in headgear with them. Loads are
also carried by the Igorots on their backs, hung by
straps over the forehead. It was an ingorant child in
this school who wrote the following article upon Missus Dickinson's
visit at Boggio. It was yesterday morning, very early when
we started from here to the post office to meet
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a lady named Missus Dickinson. So early we all went
down the brook to take our bath. After we had
taken our bath, we had breakfast. I was late so
Ena scolded me. But I am glad she did it
so that some day I won't do it again. Then
we were all lining up in two by two. When
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we got up to the post office, she was not there,
so we waited for her. An hour or two after
waiting for them, they arrived. Suddenly there were some ladies
who accompanied Missus Dickinson. We were very much pleased to
see her, and she was much pleased too. The first
time that she came in the Philippine Islands from America,
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and she is sawpress surprised. We sang three songs of
the national anthem and waving our flags on the road.
When we finished singing, they clapped their hands. I gave
her a bouquet of pink flowers. This we did it
for our honor of Missus Dickinson, not because she is
more kind or lovely lady, but because she is the
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wife of mister Dickinson. This Secretary of War is a
leader of those who have authorities. He is responsible of them.
After that we came right back. Miss b came for school.
We cleaned the schoolroom and the yard so that they
will be so tidy when they come to see the
school At three o'clock. We fixed the two bridges, and
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we trimmed the road a little bit for their automobile
to dance on. But they left them on the road
yonder because they are afraid might the bridges will do
them damage. So they walked from there to here, and
when they went back, they walked from here to there again,
making them a journey. Doctor White, the missionary at Boggio,
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and his sister, took me one day to the tombs
of the Igorots, high on the hills, looking toward the sea.
Our great natural rocks with cracks in them, one of
which looked like the Sphinx. Here we got off our ponies,
tied them, and entered on foot a tangled path leading
to a cavern. In the faint light that sifted through,
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we saw a coffin, some baskets, and some hats, and
farther on, concealed and yet overlooking a fine view, were
more wooden coffins. Some of these had fallen apart, so
that we could see the remains of bones and clothes.
When an Igorot dies, the body is usually tied in
a sitting position on the top of a pole in
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the house and smoked for several days over a fire
built underneath it. Meanwhile, the family and cook all the
pigs and karraboughs and ponies if the man owned any,
and then gathered around and have what they call a
kanyao or feast. Afterward, the bones and skulls of the
karraboos are hung about the house to show their neighbors
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what a rich man he was. Some of us went
one day to Mirador, the typhoon station on a high
hill overlooking the sea. It is in charge of a
Jesuit priest who predicts the approach of typhoons and puts
up storm signals, in this way preventing great loss of life.
We were shown the instruments which give warning of earthquakes
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as well as typhoons, and given sherry that was fifty
years old, delicious cake and flowers from his garden, and
we saw his goats climbing up the steep crags. He
told us with a chuckle that he had traded his
dog to an igorot for a cow. On Sunday we
visited the dog market, but alas we saw no dogs,
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as on account of cholera in the vicinity, it was
forbidden to sell any. A few days before we had
seen several men leading a number of lean and lanky
ones along the road, and these were all for sale
to be killed and eaten. Long haired canines are not popular,
the short haired kind are preferred. Vice Governor Gilbert had
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a cannow or feast in front of his house. One morning,
a line of partly dressed dog eaters arrived, bowing as
they passed. They proved to be the chiefs or head men,
who had put on what clothes they possessed for this occasion.
They were brown, bare legged men, with gee strings, as
they called the woven cloth hanging about their waists. Some
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had coats on but nothing underneath, and only an old
hat to complete the costume. The banquet. Igorots or dog eaters,
are small but strong, and remind one of our American
Indian They are peaceful farmers now, but in days gone
by they fought their neighbors on the north, and so
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lances and shields are still to be found among them.
The first American civil provincial government established in the Philippines
was in Benguette, and the government control has been continuously
exercised there since November twenty third, nineteen hundred. They are
gladly availing themselves of the opportunity now afforded for the
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education of their children, but insist that this education be practical.
In order to show the progress that had been made
in the Philippines, a party of Igorots were brought to
the Saint Louis Exposition. Part of the exhibit was a
model schoolroom. Visitors were amazed at the bright, eager little
children and at their keen interest in their lessons. But
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they were even more amazed one day to see the
same model pupils when a dog suddenly barked outside, for
the school simply went to pieces, the children making for
the nearest door. The last scene of them. They were
in full cry after the fortunate dog. Although we found
the dog eaters interesting, there are other tribes of far
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greater interest, such as the Negritos, the warlike Ilongots, and
the Tyingians, as well as the people of the Bashi
rocks of the north, who are hardly ever seen. The
Negritos are diminutive and uncivilized black people who live to
day in a few mountain areas. They are the Aborigines
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of the islands in this part of the world, and
are as primitive as the Australian Blacks, having no social
or political organization but that of the family. They live
in hollow trees or under little lean tobes of grass
and brush, and subsist principally by hunting and fishing, and
which they are very expert. Their weapons are poisoned arrows
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and the blow gun. The poison, which is made either
from the leaf of a tree or from decomposed meat,
is placed in the arrow head of hollow bone. On striking,
it injects the poison into the flesh, as a hypodermic
needle would do, quickly resulting in death. The only agricultural
implement of the Negritos is a pointed stick hardened in
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the fire. To prepare the ground for cultivation. On the
space they wish to clear, they girdle the trees, which
will soon die. They are then set on fire and
the ashes distributed over the soil. Later, holes are made
with the pointed sticks and komotes, sugar, cane and tobacco
are planted. These people are very timid, and if their
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suspicions are aroused in the slightest manner, they immediately disappear
into the forest. Very little success has attended any effort
to civilize them. Their religion is nature worship, with many
local divinities and good and bad spirits of all sorts.
They ornament their bodies with scar patterns made by cutting
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the skin with sharp pieces of bamboo and then rubbing
dirt into the wounds. In this respect, they are like
no other tribes in the Eyelands, but resemble the most
primitive of the native Africans, who also make scar patterns.
The men often shave the crowns of their heads in order,
they say, to let the heat out. The Negritos, like
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the Bagobos of the south, sometimes point their front teeth,
but not by filing them as one might suppose they
are chopped off with a bolo. Winchester says, the Negritos
believe that each family must take at least one head
per year, or suffer misfortune in the form of sickness, wounds, starvation,
or death. Heads are buried in the ground under the
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houses of the men who take them. In regard to
the Tyingians of northern Luzan, I also quote from Worchester,
who has given us the most reliable account of them.
The women of this tribe ornament their arms with a
series of bracelets and armlets, which often extend from wrist
to shoulder. They constrict the middle of the forearm during
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early girlhood and continue to wear tight armlets on the
constricted portion throughout life, so that their forearms become somewhat
hour glass shaped, this being considered a mark of great beauty,
in spite of the unsightly swelling of the wrists which result.
Their cooking utensils are taken to the river and scrubbed
with sand after every meal. If a wife offers her
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husband dirty or soggy rice to eat, the offense is
said to afford ground for divorce. When a man dies,
whether his death be natural or due to violence, the
other members of his family repair by night to some
village of their enemies, cut pieces from their turbans and
throw them down on the ground. This is interpreted as
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an intimation that they will return and take heads, sometimes
within six months, and they believe that the dead man
knows no peace until this is done. The Ilungots who
live in the province of Nueva Viscaya are especially wild
and great head hunters. They are striking figures in the
deer skin raincoats. No young man can take to himself
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a bride until he has brought back ahead to prove
his prowess. The favorite time for these gruesome excursions of
the tribe is when the blossoms of the fire tree
show their red beacons on the mountain sides as an
especial mark of beauty and valor. Because a good deal
of pain has to be endured in the process, the
men cut off the upper front teeth on a line
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with the gums. Woe betide the man who rides a
white horse into the Illengot country, for above all things,
white hair is desired, and unless he stands guard over it,
he will find its main missing and its tail cropped
to the skin. Most of the mountain people still retain
their ancient myths and traditions. Even among these Ilaningots there
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are tales of the long ago when they came across
a great water to their present abode. This, of course,
merely explains the general migration of the Malay tribes. By
the way. This Malay migration is still in progress and
is exemplified by the Samol boatmen who come from Borneo
and further south in Malaysia to the southern Philippines. All
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the wild people have customs of their own which distinguish them,
especially the manner in which they cut their hair and
wear their loin claws. They have slightly different methods of fighting,
some fighting singly with a kind of sword, others in
pairs with spears and arrows, while the sword is used
only to decapitate the fallen enemy. Others display considerable ability
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in organization and operate large bands under especially designated chiefs.
All are very fond of dancing, and have driven dances
to represent war, love, and the chase. They have their
own explanations for everything, and their stories about the creation
of the various birds and animals are quite interesting and
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not unlike those found among some tribes of Aborigines in
North America. One of them relates that one day the
Creator was making the different birds before him lay bodies, wings, necks, heads,
and feet. He would begin with the body and build
it up with appropriate parts so that it could apply
itself to the purpose for which it was intended. In
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every case, the Creator was particular not to put on
the wings before the bird was complete, for feared that
it would take flight in an imperfect condition. One day,
while he was engaged in making an especially fine specimen
of the feathered world. The evil spirit approached and engaged
the Good Spirit in conversation. Ordinarily, he would have attacked
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the evil one and quickly put him to flight, But
as the bird was nearly finished and already imbued with
the spark of life, he wished to complete him. But
the creator's anger that the evil one should overlook his
work became so great that, without thinking, he put on
the wings before the legs had been fitted. Instantly, the
bird flew off. In haste, The Creator grabbed the first
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pair of legs he could lay his hands on and
threw them at it. They attached themselves exactly where they
struck the bird, near the tail. This is the reason,
so the story goes, that the loon's legs are so
far back that he cannot walk in an upright position
on land. His peculiarly sad cry is a lament because
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he must stay in the water practically all the time
and cannot enjoy himself on land as other good birds do.
Many of the people who live along the foot of
the mountain ranges, although christianized sufficiently to contribute to the
Roman Catholic churches, still retain many of their aboriginal customs,
especially those pertaining to marriage, birth and death. Beyond the
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shores of Luzan, stretching northward for nearly two hundred miles,
is an interesting archipelago of diminutive islands known as the
Bashi Rocks, the Batan and Babuyan Islands. The natives still
retain many of the characteristics which were observed by Dampierre
in his visit to these islands in the seventeenth century.
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The inhabitants of the Batan group are like those living
on the Japanese island of Boto Tobago, which is only
sixty miles north of our most northern possession. No missionaries
or other persons had been allowed by the natives to
land on their shores until a few Japanese police arrived
in nineteen o nine. They are mentioned in passing because
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they are a present day example of what the people
in the northern islands of the Philippine group were before
the coming of the white men and the friars. Their
dwellings are very peculiar. Each family has a stone paved
court surrounded by a low wall of stone. Within this enclosure,
they have three houses, one with its side sunk down
into the ground in order to give protection from high winds,
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one with ordinary walls for use during normal weather, and
a third built on poles about ten feet above the
ground for use during the hot season. From these elevated houses,
a constant watch is maintained for schools of fish. The
people are expert fishermen and make excellent nets, and they
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have beautiful boats with high boughs and sterns. In Dampier's day,
the people were friendly and hospitable, as they are at
the present time. They valued iron more than gold, and
gladly exchange it for iron. The ancient diggings are still
to be seen, but the pay dirt is of such
a low grade that it is not worth while to
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work it. The precious metal is washed out by the
natives in cocoanut shells, which take the place of our
prospector's gold pan. Many gold ornaments of attractive design are
still to be found in these islands. Some of those
taken from graves remind one strongly of Chaldean work. The
graves of the ancient inhabitants were placed high upon the mountains,
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some near the smoking craters of the volcanoes. Others on
the crests of the non volcanic hills. It is supposed
the graves near the smoking craters were those of persons
who had a bad reputation in the community, while those
on the tops of the ridges contained the bodies of
the good, and that by this method of burial the
ideas of heaven and Hell were carried out in a
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practical manner. The bodies were placed in olas or earthenware jars,
some of which had a high glaze and were profusely ornamented.
The corpse was inserted into the jar in a sitting position,
and the orifice was sealed by placing an inverted olah
over the mouth of the first These jars were then
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placed on end and a small pyramid of stones built
around them, on the top of which a little tree
was planted. A number of these graves, ranged around the
edge of a smoking sulfur crater, are an uncanny sight
which the natives took good care to avoid. The women
of the Batan Islands, when walking or working out of doors,
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wear a distinctive head dress consisting of a long grass
hood which stretches from the forehead to below the hips.
It protects the head and back from the sun, wind
and rain, so that it is worn at all times
and in all seasons. It is one of the most
original and useful of all primitive garments. During the dry season,
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but little rainfalls in these islands, and as there are
few streams or springs, every means is employed to catch
the least drop. Even the trees in the yards have
pieces of ratan twisted around their trunks and larger branches
to make the water drop off into earthen jars. During
the autumn migration of hawks and eagles from the north,
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men are stationed on the thatched roofs of the high
dwellings to seize the birds by the feet as soon
as they alight. Great numbers are caught in this manner
every year and form quite an element of the food supply.
Many of the islands are excellent places for the production
of cattle. Itbayat Island, unique because its shores are higher
than the interior, has many thousand head of excellent cattle.
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The coast is so precipitous that when they are exported,
they have to be lowered to the water's edge by
means of a block and tackle, as at Tangier. They
then have to swim out to the waiting ship, where
they are hoisted by their horns to the deck. Another
of the cattle islands is called Daluperrie. This beautiful spot
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was given in its entirety to Eldcoas and Company of
Manila by the Spanish government. In fact, when the United
States first took possession of the Philippines, this company claimed
sovereignty over the island, but this, of course, was not
recognized by the United States government. The cattle that are
pastured here are a cross between the black Spanish bulls
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of fighting lineage and the humped cattle of India. Great
care is taken that the stock be well kept up,
and for this purpose there is a constant weeding out
of undesirables. The method in which this is done both
interesting and very exciting. The cattle room at will and
are very wild and hard to approach. As a result,
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they have to be hunted with great care. About twenty
men are employed in their capture, all of whom are
mounted on hardy little horses. Four of them are lassers,
and the rest huntsmen. The lazaus or nooses attached to
the ends of bamboo poles about twelve feet long. The
rope from the noose to the length of about twenty
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five feet is coiled around the bamboo pole and tied
to it four feet from the lower end. When the
lasaux is thrown over an animal's head, the pole is
dropped by the rider. The rope unwinds and drags a
pole along the ground until it catches on a rock
or a bush and stops the mad career of the animal.
We started out early one morning, Major Mitchell writes me
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to cut several young bulls out of a herd of
about five hundred cattle. Led by the manager of the island,
we galloped over the rough surface of the coral bound
hilltops and through deep waving grass until one of the
huntsmen signaled that the herd was in sight. A careful
inspection was made of the herd with a telescope, and
the animals for capture were selected and carefully pointed out
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to the last sours, who immediately took up their posts
in concealment beside a little plane. The huntsmen then proceeded
under cover to points around the herd which would enable
them to drive the cattle on to the little plain,
where the last sewers could get in their work. After
a wait of about a half hour, the horn of
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the chief huntsman peeled forth and was answered by the
yels of his companions. The herd, unable to go in
another direction, dashed for the little plane, followed by his pursuers.
Crouching behind some low bushes, The last sowers waited until
the cattle, now in full stampede, had come within fifty yards,
when in a twinkling they dashed into the midst of
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the galloping herd. After a terrific race, one lasso held
true on a fine young bull, while the rest scampered
off into the ravines and water courses. The dragging bamboo
pole soon brought him to a stop, and after several
charges at his captors, two more lasos were placed on him,
and he was securely fastened and dragged to a tree
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against which his head was tied. A little saw was
produced from somewhere, and his gallant horns were cut off short.
An old sedate caraboo, who seemed to be perfectly at home,
made his appearance. The young bull was tied to the
carabo's harness and towed off toward the corral. At first
He tried frantically to gore the caraboo, but as his
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horns had been removed, no harm resulted. The caraboo did
not mind it in the least, but continued tranquility on
his way. Three more bulls were captured on that day,
each furnished exceedingly fast and interesting sport. I have seen
mounted work of a great many kinds, such as pig sticking,
stag hunting, and hunting of many kinds of game, including
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our own fox hunting and polo. But never have I
seen any mounted work which required more dash, nerve, good
judgment and endurance than that displayed by these herdsmen of
the Northern Islands. Although these islands are bounded on the
north by the Balanan Channel, through which some of the
shipping passes from America to the southern part of China,
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they are seldom visited. This is because, as I have
said before, there are no ports, but even good anchorages.
During the typhoon season, they are exposed to the full
force of these great hurricanes, while the waters are infested
with hidden rocks and coral ledges. The U. S Cruiser
Charleston ran aground on a coral reef east of the
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island of Camugwin in nineteen hundred and sank immediately. During
the Russo Japanese War, the fleet of the Russian Admiral
Rojasvensky passed on either side of Batan Island. Japanese had
observers on the summit of Mount Araya on this island
who are supposed to have signaled by heliograph to Mount
(32:07):
Morrison and Formosa of the coming of the fleet. The
Great Armada could be seen from this mountain for more
than one hundred miles end of section fourteen, recording by
William tom Co
Section fourteen of the Spell of the Hawaiian Islands and
the Philippines by Isabel Andersen. This librifox recording is in
the public domain recording by William tom Coe The Spell
of the Hawaiian Islands and the Philippines by Isabel Andersen,
Section fourteen, Chapter six, dog Eaters and Others. The natives
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of the Philippines are Malays, as I have said, but
they are sometimes classified as Christian, Pagan and Mohammedan Malays.
The Christian and educated tribes live near the coast on
the lowlands and are called Filipinos. They have intermarried greatly
with the Spaniards and Chinese. There are twenty seven non
Christian tribes in the islands, about four hundred thousand in
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number in the mountain province of Luzon alone. These hill
people are seldom seen, although during the last few years
most of the tribes have come under government influences and
head hunting has been more or less given up. These
dwellers in the mountains include the Aborigines who were driven
out of the valleys by the Malays, and also the
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Malays of the earlier migration who refused to embrace the
Mohammedanism of the Moros of the Southern Islands, or the
Christianity of the Spaniards. We were fortunate in having the
opportunity to see some of the dog eaters and other
hill people. Our party was divided, and while several of
the men went into the heart of the head hunting country,
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the rest of us took the train to Baggio, the
mountain capital. What a night it was. The heat was frightful,
and swarms of mosquitoes added to the torture. But at sunrise,
as I sat on the back platform while the train
steamed through rows of cocoanut palms, past little huts and stations,
I was reminded of this verse. Mighty, luminous and calm
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is the country of the palm, crowned with sunset and
sun sunrise, under blue, unbroken skies, waving from green zone
to zone over wonders of its own, trackless, untraversed, unknown,
changeless through the centuries, leaving the tropics behind, we climbed
up up among the glorious mountains. At last, the train
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stopped at a little station, and we took the motors
that were waiting and went on higher and higher into
cloud land, where the tall pines grew and the mountains
rose into the sky. We had indeed ascended into paradise
from purgatory. As one resident in Manila expressed it, the
heavenly coolness, the sweet pine air, and the exquisite scenery
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give you new life after the year spent in the heat, glare,
dust and smells of the lowlands. We were passing over
the far famed Banguette Road, one of the finest highways
in the world, which wound in and out through the
gorges of the mountains, repeatedly crossing the river that roared beneath.
For twenty miles, we zigzagged up the slopes, with widening
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views of great hills opening before us and cascades bursting
out from beneath the mountains, till we came out on
the plateau of Bangio, five thousand feet above the sea.
This road, which has been a favorite theme for discussion
by politicians, was open to traffic in nineteen o five.
It is true that the cost of the roadway was
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beyond what anybody had anticipated, on account of the many
bridges that had to be repaired each year after the
rainy season, and also after the destructive typhoons that sweep
over the island. One in nineteen eleven brought a rainfall
of forty six inches in twenty four hours, which hurled
avalanches of debris from the mountain slopes. For this reason,
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a new road from Baoang to Bagaio has been commenced,
but nearly so direct, but requiring only a few bridges,
and it is to be hoped will prove successful and
more economical than the other. Baggio, in the midst of
glorious mountain scenery, where the temperature never goes above eighty
and the knights are deliciously cool, really is an ideal
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health resort for a tropical country. The Philippines have mister
Worcester and mister Forbes to thank for this blessing. Government
buildings were erected and the whole force of the government
was moved up there for the hot season. With the
rich return of the improved health and greater efficiency of
the employees, a hospital for tuberculosis was built and a
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much needed school for American children. The Jesuit Observatory was established,
and Camp John Hay was laid out as a permanent
military post. Many people bought land and put up little bungalows.
A teacher's camp was started by the Bureau of Education
for American teachers from all over the Islands, where they
had not only rest and recreation, but the metal brushing
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up of good lectures after months in lowly stations. When
the Democratic Administration began its changes in the Philippines, government
offices were ordered to be kept in Manila throughout the year. Consequently,
only the higher officials were able to go to Boggio,
with a result patent to every one in the lessened
efficiency of the force. But within the last two or
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three years, the Filipinos have come to appreciate the place,
which was a revelation to them. Now rich and poor
managed to go there, and they have taken possession. The
benefits of Baggaio and the Benguette Road are felt even
in Manila, where Americans are beginning to get fresh garden peas,
summer squash, wax beans, and real strawberries. Our friend writes,
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if the time ever comes when we can have real
cow's milk and cream, then our food will be as
good as anywhere in the States. We had a glorious
week at Topside. Governor Forbes attractive Bungalow and speedily became
as usiastic in our praises of Boggio as everyone else
who has ever been there. I rode all day long
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on Black Crook, the most perfect polo pony in the world,
through the mists and the sunlight, and into the rainbow
shades of the setting sun, where the clouds turned the
color of cockatoos wings and the tints of the fish
from the China Sea. Cloud maidens that float on forever
dew sprinkled fleet bodies and fair let us rise from
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our sire's loud river, great Ocean, and soar through the
air to the peaks of pine covered mountains, where the
pines hang as tresses of air. I played my first
polo game at Baggio on the club grounds. Squash Pie,
Calico Pie, and other delightful names were given to the
native ponies, which are small but very strong. We went
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to the government stock farm where they are trying experiments
in breeding horses. They had a native pony there that
had been well fed and taken care of for some time,
in order to show the difference between it and the
forlorn animals that one might see anywhere in the towns.
The native Spanish pony has greatly degenerated. At this farm,
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they had a beautiful Arabian stallion and a Morgan stallion
from Vermont. It is said that the first generation of
American horses does well in the Philippines, but after that
the climate and the change in food cause them to deteriorate. Besides,
they are rather too big for mountain cavalry. The Arabian
stallion and the Native mare are said to breed the
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best kind of horse for this country. Black Scotch cattle
and Australian cattle, which are raised at the government farm
do well. Sheep do not pay for to begin with.
There is no market for the wool. Goats do well,
and goat's milk is in great demand. The natives used
principally the carabao and the native cattle, which look like
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small Jersey cows house but are not very good. Another day,
Missus Whitmarsh from Boston gave us a tea in a
little house hung with orchids and Japanese lanterns, and we
visited mister Whitmarsh's gold mine. Some of us went on
horseback down into the valley to see the tunnels. We
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washed a pan of war in the brook and found
at the bottom little fine gold specks. The Benguette Igorots
have mined gold for centuries. At Baggio, we visited missionary
and government schools and Camp John Hay, where Captain Hillgard
gave us a reception. At the government school, the Igorot
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boys are taught, among other things, to make attractive mission furniture,
while the girls learn to weave and very pretty things
they make. These girls wear short blue skirts and little jackets,
and have their hair in two long black braids that
hang on either side of their faces. A Turkish towel
worn as a turban on which to rest burdens seemed
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to be the fashion in headgear with them. Loads are
also carried by the Igorots on their backs, hung by
straps over the forehead. It was an ingorant child in
this school who wrote the following article upon Missus Dickinson's
visit at Boggio. It was yesterday morning, very early when
we started from here to the post office to meet
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a lady named Missus Dickinson. So early we all went
down the brook to take our bath. After we had
taken our bath, we had breakfast. I was late so
Ena scolded me. But I am glad she did it
so that some day I won't do it again. Then
we were all lining up in two by two. When
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we got up to the post office, she was not there,
so we waited for her. An hour or two after
waiting for them, they arrived. Suddenly there were some ladies
who accompanied Missus Dickinson. We were very much pleased to
see her, and she was much pleased too. The first
time that she came in the Philippine Islands from America,
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and she is sawpress surprised. We sang three songs of
the national anthem and waving our flags on the road.
When we finished singing, they clapped their hands. I gave
her a bouquet of pink flowers. This we did it
for our honor of Missus Dickinson, not because she is
more kind or lovely lady, but because she is the
(10:27):
wife of mister Dickinson. This Secretary of War is a
leader of those who have authorities. He is responsible of them.
After that we came right back. Miss b came for school.
We cleaned the schoolroom and the yard so that they
will be so tidy when they come to see the
school At three o'clock. We fixed the two bridges, and
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we trimmed the road a little bit for their automobile
to dance on. But they left them on the road
yonder because they are afraid might the bridges will do
them damage. So they walked from there to here, and
when they went back, they walked from here to there again,
making them a journey. Doctor White, the missionary at Boggio,
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and his sister, took me one day to the tombs
of the Igorots, high on the hills, looking toward the sea.
Our great natural rocks with cracks in them, one of
which looked like the Sphinx. Here we got off our ponies,
tied them, and entered on foot a tangled path leading
to a cavern. In the faint light that sifted through,
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we saw a coffin, some baskets, and some hats, and
farther on, concealed and yet overlooking a fine view, were
more wooden coffins. Some of these had fallen apart, so
that we could see the remains of bones and clothes.
When an Igorot dies, the body is usually tied in
a sitting position on the top of a pole in
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the house and smoked for several days over a fire
built underneath it. Meanwhile, the family and cook all the
pigs and karraboughs and ponies if the man owned any,
and then gathered around and have what they call a
kanyao or feast. Afterward, the bones and skulls of the
karraboos are hung about the house to show their neighbors
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what a rich man he was. Some of us went
one day to Mirador, the typhoon station on a high
hill overlooking the sea. It is in charge of a
Jesuit priest who predicts the approach of typhoons and puts
up storm signals, in this way preventing great loss of life.
We were shown the instruments which give warning of earthquakes
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as well as typhoons, and given sherry that was fifty
years old, delicious cake and flowers from his garden, and
we saw his goats climbing up the steep crags. He
told us with a chuckle that he had traded his
dog to an igorot for a cow. On Sunday we
visited the dog market, but alas we saw no dogs,
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as on account of cholera in the vicinity, it was
forbidden to sell any. A few days before we had
seen several men leading a number of lean and lanky
ones along the road, and these were all for sale
to be killed and eaten. Long haired canines are not popular,
the short haired kind are preferred. Vice Governor Gilbert had
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a cannow or feast in front of his house. One morning,
a line of partly dressed dog eaters arrived, bowing as
they passed. They proved to be the chiefs or head men,
who had put on what clothes they possessed for this occasion.
They were brown, bare legged men, with gee strings, as
they called the woven cloth hanging about their waists. Some
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had coats on but nothing underneath, and only an old
hat to complete the costume. The banquet. Igorots or dog eaters,
are small but strong, and remind one of our American
Indian They are peaceful farmers now, but in days gone
by they fought their neighbors on the north, and so
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lances and shields are still to be found among them.
The first American civil provincial government established in the Philippines
was in Benguette, and the government control has been continuously
exercised there since November twenty third, nineteen hundred. They are
gladly availing themselves of the opportunity now afforded for the
(14:23):
education of their children, but insist that this education be practical.
In order to show the progress that had been made
in the Philippines, a party of Igorots were brought to
the Saint Louis Exposition. Part of the exhibit was a
model schoolroom. Visitors were amazed at the bright, eager little
children and at their keen interest in their lessons. But
(14:45):
they were even more amazed one day to see the
same model pupils when a dog suddenly barked outside, for
the school simply went to pieces, the children making for
the nearest door. The last scene of them. They were
in full cry after the fortunate dog. Although we found
the dog eaters interesting, there are other tribes of far
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greater interest, such as the Negritos, the warlike Ilongots, and
the Tyingians, as well as the people of the Bashi
rocks of the north, who are hardly ever seen. The
Negritos are diminutive and uncivilized black people who live to
day in a few mountain areas. They are the Aborigines
(15:26):
of the islands in this part of the world, and
are as primitive as the Australian Blacks, having no social
or political organization but that of the family. They live
in hollow trees or under little lean tobes of grass
and brush, and subsist principally by hunting and fishing, and
which they are very expert. Their weapons are poisoned arrows
(15:47):
and the blow gun. The poison, which is made either
from the leaf of a tree or from decomposed meat,
is placed in the arrow head of hollow bone. On striking,
it injects the poison into the flesh, as a hypodermic
needle would do, quickly resulting in death. The only agricultural
implement of the Negritos is a pointed stick hardened in
(16:08):
the fire. To prepare the ground for cultivation. On the
space they wish to clear, they girdle the trees, which
will soon die. They are then set on fire and
the ashes distributed over the soil. Later, holes are made
with the pointed sticks and komotes, sugar, cane and tobacco
are planted. These people are very timid, and if their
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suspicions are aroused in the slightest manner, they immediately disappear
into the forest. Very little success has attended any effort
to civilize them. Their religion is nature worship, with many
local divinities and good and bad spirits of all sorts.
They ornament their bodies with scar patterns made by cutting
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the skin with sharp pieces of bamboo and then rubbing
dirt into the wounds. In this respect, they are like
no other tribes in the Eyelands, but resemble the most
primitive of the native Africans, who also make scar patterns.
The men often shave the crowns of their heads in order,
they say, to let the heat out. The Negritos, like
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the Bagobos of the south, sometimes point their front teeth,
but not by filing them as one might suppose they
are chopped off with a bolo. Winchester says, the Negritos
believe that each family must take at least one head
per year, or suffer misfortune in the form of sickness, wounds, starvation,
or death. Heads are buried in the ground under the
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houses of the men who take them. In regard to
the Tyingians of northern Luzan, I also quote from Worchester,
who has given us the most reliable account of them.
The women of this tribe ornament their arms with a
series of bracelets and armlets, which often extend from wrist
to shoulder. They constrict the middle of the forearm during
(17:57):
early girlhood and continue to wear tight armlets on the
constricted portion throughout life, so that their forearms become somewhat
hour glass shaped, this being considered a mark of great beauty,
in spite of the unsightly swelling of the wrists which result.
Their cooking utensils are taken to the river and scrubbed
with sand after every meal. If a wife offers her
(18:19):
husband dirty or soggy rice to eat, the offense is
said to afford ground for divorce. When a man dies,
whether his death be natural or due to violence, the
other members of his family repair by night to some
village of their enemies, cut pieces from their turbans and
throw them down on the ground. This is interpreted as
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an intimation that they will return and take heads, sometimes
within six months, and they believe that the dead man
knows no peace until this is done. The Ilungots who
live in the province of Nueva Viscaya are especially wild
and great head hunters. They are striking figures in the
deer skin raincoats. No young man can take to himself
(19:03):
a bride until he has brought back ahead to prove
his prowess. The favorite time for these gruesome excursions of
the tribe is when the blossoms of the fire tree
show their red beacons on the mountain sides as an
especial mark of beauty and valor. Because a good deal
of pain has to be endured in the process, the
men cut off the upper front teeth on a line
(19:24):
with the gums. Woe betide the man who rides a
white horse into the Illengot country, for above all things,
white hair is desired, and unless he stands guard over it,
he will find its main missing and its tail cropped
to the skin. Most of the mountain people still retain
their ancient myths and traditions. Even among these Ilaningots there
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are tales of the long ago when they came across
a great water to their present abode. This, of course,
merely explains the general migration of the Malay tribes. By
the way. This Malay migration is still in progress and
is exemplified by the Samol boatmen who come from Borneo
and further south in Malaysia to the southern Philippines. All
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the wild people have customs of their own which distinguish them,
especially the manner in which they cut their hair and
wear their loin claws. They have slightly different methods of fighting,
some fighting singly with a kind of sword, others in
pairs with spears and arrows, while the sword is used
only to decapitate the fallen enemy. Others display considerable ability
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in organization and operate large bands under especially designated chiefs.
All are very fond of dancing, and have driven dances
to represent war, love, and the chase. They have their
own explanations for everything, and their stories about the creation
of the various birds and animals are quite interesting and
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not unlike those found among some tribes of Aborigines in
North America. One of them relates that one day the
Creator was making the different birds before him lay bodies, wings, necks, heads,
and feet. He would begin with the body and build
it up with appropriate parts so that it could apply
itself to the purpose for which it was intended. In
(21:17):
every case, the Creator was particular not to put on
the wings before the bird was complete, for feared that
it would take flight in an imperfect condition. One day,
while he was engaged in making an especially fine specimen
of the feathered world. The evil spirit approached and engaged
the Good Spirit in conversation. Ordinarily, he would have attacked
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the evil one and quickly put him to flight, But
as the bird was nearly finished and already imbued with
the spark of life, he wished to complete him. But
the creator's anger that the evil one should overlook his
work became so great that, without thinking, he put on
the wings before the legs had been fitted. Instantly, the
bird flew off. In haste, The Creator grabbed the first
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pair of legs he could lay his hands on and
threw them at it. They attached themselves exactly where they
struck the bird, near the tail. This is the reason,
so the story goes, that the loon's legs are so
far back that he cannot walk in an upright position
on land. His peculiarly sad cry is a lament because
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he must stay in the water practically all the time
and cannot enjoy himself on land as other good birds do.
Many of the people who live along the foot of
the mountain ranges, although christianized sufficiently to contribute to the
Roman Catholic churches, still retain many of their aboriginal customs,
especially those pertaining to marriage, birth and death. Beyond the
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shores of Luzan, stretching northward for nearly two hundred miles,
is an interesting archipelago of diminutive islands known as the
Bashi Rocks, the Batan and Babuyan Islands. The natives still
retain many of the characteristics which were observed by Dampierre
in his visit to these islands in the seventeenth century.
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The inhabitants of the Batan group are like those living
on the Japanese island of Boto Tobago, which is only
sixty miles north of our most northern possession. No missionaries
or other persons had been allowed by the natives to
land on their shores until a few Japanese police arrived
in nineteen o nine. They are mentioned in passing because
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they are a present day example of what the people
in the northern islands of the Philippine group were before
the coming of the white men and the friars. Their
dwellings are very peculiar. Each family has a stone paved
court surrounded by a low wall of stone. Within this enclosure,
they have three houses, one with its side sunk down
into the ground in order to give protection from high winds,
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one with ordinary walls for use during normal weather, and
a third built on poles about ten feet above the
ground for use during the hot season. From these elevated houses,
a constant watch is maintained for schools of fish. The
people are expert fishermen and make excellent nets, and they
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have beautiful boats with high boughs and sterns. In Dampier's day,
the people were friendly and hospitable, as they are at
the present time. They valued iron more than gold, and
gladly exchange it for iron. The ancient diggings are still
to be seen, but the pay dirt is of such
a low grade that it is not worth while to
(24:30):
work it. The precious metal is washed out by the
natives in cocoanut shells, which take the place of our
prospector's gold pan. Many gold ornaments of attractive design are
still to be found in these islands. Some of those
taken from graves remind one strongly of Chaldean work. The
graves of the ancient inhabitants were placed high upon the mountains,
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some near the smoking craters of the volcanoes. Others on
the crests of the non volcanic hills. It is supposed
the graves near the smoking craters were those of persons
who had a bad reputation in the community, while those
on the tops of the ridges contained the bodies of
the good, and that by this method of burial the
ideas of heaven and Hell were carried out in a
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practical manner. The bodies were placed in olas or earthenware jars,
some of which had a high glaze and were profusely ornamented.
The corpse was inserted into the jar in a sitting position,
and the orifice was sealed by placing an inverted olah
over the mouth of the first These jars were then
(25:35):
placed on end and a small pyramid of stones built
around them, on the top of which a little tree
was planted. A number of these graves, ranged around the
edge of a smoking sulfur crater, are an uncanny sight
which the natives took good care to avoid. The women
of the Batan Islands, when walking or working out of doors,
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wear a distinctive head dress consisting of a long grass
hood which stretches from the forehead to below the hips.
It protects the head and back from the sun, wind
and rain, so that it is worn at all times
and in all seasons. It is one of the most
original and useful of all primitive garments. During the dry season,
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but little rainfalls in these islands, and as there are
few streams or springs, every means is employed to catch
the least drop. Even the trees in the yards have
pieces of ratan twisted around their trunks and larger branches
to make the water drop off into earthen jars. During
the autumn migration of hawks and eagles from the north,
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men are stationed on the thatched roofs of the high
dwellings to seize the birds by the feet as soon
as they alight. Great numbers are caught in this manner
every year and form quite an element of the food supply.
Many of the islands are excellent places for the production
of cattle. Itbayat Island, unique because its shores are higher
than the interior, has many thousand head of excellent cattle.
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The coast is so precipitous that when they are exported,
they have to be lowered to the water's edge by
means of a block and tackle, as at Tangier. They
then have to swim out to the waiting ship, where
they are hoisted by their horns to the deck. Another
of the cattle islands is called Daluperrie. This beautiful spot
(27:24):
was given in its entirety to Eldcoas and Company of
Manila by the Spanish government. In fact, when the United
States first took possession of the Philippines, this company claimed
sovereignty over the island, but this, of course, was not
recognized by the United States government. The cattle that are
pastured here are a cross between the black Spanish bulls
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of fighting lineage and the humped cattle of India. Great
care is taken that the stock be well kept up,
and for this purpose there is a constant weeding out
of undesirables. The method in which this is done both
interesting and very exciting. The cattle room at will and
are very wild and hard to approach. As a result,
(28:08):
they have to be hunted with great care. About twenty
men are employed in their capture, all of whom are
mounted on hardy little horses. Four of them are lassers,
and the rest huntsmen. The lazaus or nooses attached to
the ends of bamboo poles about twelve feet long. The
rope from the noose to the length of about twenty
(28:29):
five feet is coiled around the bamboo pole and tied
to it four feet from the lower end. When the
lasaux is thrown over an animal's head, the pole is
dropped by the rider. The rope unwinds and drags a
pole along the ground until it catches on a rock
or a bush and stops the mad career of the animal.
We started out early one morning, Major Mitchell writes me
(28:52):
to cut several young bulls out of a herd of
about five hundred cattle. Led by the manager of the island,
we galloped over the rough surface of the coral bound
hilltops and through deep waving grass until one of the
huntsmen signaled that the herd was in sight. A careful
inspection was made of the herd with a telescope, and
the animals for capture were selected and carefully pointed out
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to the last sours, who immediately took up their posts
in concealment beside a little plane. The huntsmen then proceeded
under cover to points around the herd which would enable
them to drive the cattle on to the little plain,
where the last sewers could get in their work. After
a wait of about a half hour, the horn of
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the chief huntsman peeled forth and was answered by the
yels of his companions. The herd, unable to go in
another direction, dashed for the little plane, followed by his pursuers.
Crouching behind some low bushes, The last sowers waited until
the cattle, now in full stampede, had come within fifty yards,
when in a twinkling they dashed into the midst of
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the galloping herd. After a terrific race, one lasso held
true on a fine young bull, while the rest scampered
off into the ravines and water courses. The dragging bamboo
pole soon brought him to a stop, and after several
charges at his captors, two more lasos were placed on him,
and he was securely fastened and dragged to a tree
(30:20):
against which his head was tied. A little saw was
produced from somewhere, and his gallant horns were cut off short.
An old sedate caraboo, who seemed to be perfectly at home,
made his appearance. The young bull was tied to the
carabo's harness and towed off toward the corral. At first
He tried frantically to gore the caraboo, but as his
(30:41):
horns had been removed, no harm resulted. The caraboo did
not mind it in the least, but continued tranquility on
his way. Three more bulls were captured on that day,
each furnished exceedingly fast and interesting sport. I have seen
mounted work of a great many kinds, such as pig sticking,
stag hunting, and hunting of many kinds of game, including
(31:03):
our own fox hunting and polo. But never have I
seen any mounted work which required more dash, nerve, good
judgment and endurance than that displayed by these herdsmen of
the Northern Islands. Although these islands are bounded on the
north by the Balanan Channel, through which some of the
shipping passes from America to the southern part of China,
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they are seldom visited. This is because, as I have
said before, there are no ports, but even good anchorages.
During the typhoon season, they are exposed to the full
force of these great hurricanes, while the waters are infested
with hidden rocks and coral ledges. The U. S Cruiser
Charleston ran aground on a coral reef east of the
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island of Camugwin in nineteen hundred and sank immediately. During
the Russo Japanese War, the fleet of the Russian Admiral
Rojasvensky passed on either side of Batan Island. Japanese had
observers on the summit of Mount Araya on this island
who are supposed to have signaled by heliograph to Mount
(32:07):
Morrison and Formosa of the coming of the fleet. The
Great Armada could be seen from this mountain for more
than one hundred miles end of section fourteen, recording by
William tom Co
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