16 - Spell of the Hawaiian Islands and the Philippines by Isabel Anderson

Join Isabel Anderson on a captivating journey through Hawaii and the Philippines, as she shares a fascinating travelogue that doubles as a rich history lesson. This book is a treasure trove for anyone intrigued by the South Pacific, offering a compelling glimpse into the transformations that have taken place since Mrs. Andersons travels. Prepare to be enthralled by her vivid storytelling and insightful observations.

Episode Transcript

Speaker 1 (00:00):
Section fifteen of the Spell of the Hawaiian Islands and
the Philippines by Isabel Andersen. This LibriVox recording is in
the public domain recording by William Tomco The Spell of
the Hawaiian Islands and the Philippines by Isabel Andersen, section fifteen,

(00:21):
chapter seven. Among the head Hunters. When the Americans first
came to the Philippines, most of the mountain country could
be reached only on foot over dangerous trails. Very large
tracts were unexplored, and the head hunting tribes, who are
found nowhere but in this northern part of Luzan, pillaged
the neighboring towns. A state of order has now been established,

(00:44):
except in parts of Kalinga and Apayao. The Mountain Province,
the home of the head hunters, includes the sub provinces
of Benguet, Lipanto, Aburyan, Bontac, Ifugao, Cullinga, and a pa Yao.
The officers of the provinces are a governor, a Secretary treasurer,

(01:07):
a supervisor in charge of the road and trail work
and the construction of public buildings, and seven lieutenant governors.
All these officers are appointed by the governor general. They
live on horseback, undergo great hardships, and also take great risks.
The manners and customs of these head hunting tribes differ somewhat. Each,

(01:28):
for instance, has a different mode of treating the captured
head when it is brought in, but all celebrate a
successful hunt with a kanyao or festival. The Ifugawos place
the head upon a stake and hold weird ceremonial dances
around it, followed by speech making and the drinking of
bubbud as they call their wine. Afterward, the skull of

(01:50):
the victim is utilized as a household ornament. Venison and
chicken are served at such feasts, and the large fruit
eating bats, which are considered delicacies. If one of the
tribe has been so unfortunate as to have his head taken,
they bewrate the spirit at the funeral, asking him why
he had been careless enough to get himself killed. The

(02:11):
most picturesque of the head hunting tribes that my husband
saw were the Kalingas, who are different from all other
natives of Luzan. It is said that the Spaniards took
fifteen hundred Moros into this part of the country, more
than a hundred years ago, so they may have founded
this tribe. At all events, the Kalingas are superbly developed,

(02:32):
tall and slight, some of the men having handsome and
almost classical features. Neither the men nor the women cut
the hair, which in the case of the men is
banked in front and tied up with rags behind, some
wearing nets to keep it out of their eyes. Although
the women have abundant hair, they use switches into which
they stick beautiful feathers. The men also decorate themselves in

(02:55):
the same way. On the back of the head. They
often wear little caps woven of beautifully stained Britan and
covered with agate beads, and these are used as pockets
in which small articles are carried. Great holes are pierced
in the lobes of their ears, into which are thrust
wooden ear plugs with tufts of red and yellow worsted.

(03:15):
Almost every Coalingo woman wears a pair of heavy brass
ear ornaments, and sometimes a solid piece of mother of
pearl cut like a figure eight. The Kalingas are particularly warlike,
their very name meaning enemy or stranger, and endeavors to
bring them under government control were begun only a few
years ago. There are still some rancherias which the Lieutenant

(03:38):
Governor has not yet visited, as it seemed best to
wait and bring the people to terms by peaceful means.
While we were enjoying ourselves at Bongaio, the Secretary of War,
Governor Forbes, Secretary of Worcester, General Edwards, and my husband
started north into the mountains to see some of the
strange tribes that were gathering from far and wide to

(04:00):
meet the great Apo, or chief, as they called Secretary Dickinson.
I give the account of the trip in my husband's
own words. On Saturday night, July thirty first, after the
assembly by lay, we motored to the docks and went
aboard the transport Crook for the trip northward. We were
made very comfortable on this big transport with deck cabins,

(04:22):
but we all slept on the open deck by preference,
and had a pleasant run till in the morning we
were entering Sioux Big Bay, a splendid vast harbor between
great mountains, the narrow entrance guarded by Isola Grande. Here
we landed and visited the batteries, and although it was
a small island, it was a stewing hot walk about
it especially as the Secretary sets a great pace till

(04:46):
a torrential shower came up and drove us to the
Commanding Officer's house, where we had a bite of breakfast.
And all the breakfasts at the posts which we have
visited have been so good. General Duval had come up
from Manila on his yacht, a Weela, and on board
of her we crossed the bay to Olongapo, where there
is the present naval station. The great hulk of the

(05:08):
famous floating Doc Dewey was looming up there, just floating
again after her mysterious sinking, which even now they did
not seem to be able to explain. The guard was
out with the band, and the honors were paid and
the Marines paraded. But soon another severe tropical storm broke
and drove some of us back to the ship, while
the others went on to another breakfast at the officers club.

(05:31):
This storm suggested a typhoon, but there had been no
warning from the Jesuit observatory at Manila, and so we
rejoined the crook out by Isola Grande and went to
sea without fear. This is the rainy and typhoon season,
but the warnings of severe storms are so carefully given
that they have lost their terrors nowadays, and this year

(05:52):
so far there hasn't been a disturbance, much to our comfort,
as it has permitted the carrying out of all our plans.
It is a most unusual thing for such good weather
to continue. The hot season is over, and this is
called the intermediate, but it is the time of rains
on this coast, the seasons differing slightly on the different

(06:12):
coasts and in the different islands. So all that night
we cruised up the coast through showers of rate and lightning,
passing by Bolinao light which we had first sighted as
we approached the Philippines. Before daylight. We stopped off at Taugudin,
and through the darkness could be seen the dim shadow
of land and mountains, and a light burning on the

(06:34):
beach as a beacon. With dawn, we saw a wonderful
tropical shore develop before us of low land, fringed with palm,
surrounded by beautiful mountain ranges. A tiny village on the
beach and a crowd of people gathered together. Soon a
surf boat put out and brought aboard the governors of
the nearby provinces. Early and gallman, brave, ready men, we

(06:57):
have taken these wild people in hand and became demigods
among them. And after a bite of breakfast, we were
all taken ashore through the surf very handily, and the
Secretary was welcomed by a native band and the chief
men of the neighborhood, and crowds of half naked natives.
The Ilocanos of the northwest coast of Luzan are a fine,

(07:18):
kindly race. But there had also come down from the
interior a lot of small brown men to pack in
our baggage, bontalk igorots, head hunters, and dog eaters, of
whom we were to see more in their own country.
These little fellows at first seemed like dwarfs, but soon after,
as we saw them better, they proved small, but well

(07:39):
formed and well nourished, strong, gentle little people. They ran
forward and seized our packages and disappeared down the trail
in a wild, willing manner. Off they trotted, while we
were packed into karomatos, dragged by weedy, diminutive native horses,
which are wonderfully powerful for their size, went after greeting

(08:00):
the people off down the trail through the outskirts of Tagudin.
We didn't go into the town, which was somewhat to
one side, as there had been some cholera there with
its nipa houses of plaited grass perched up above the ground,
many decorated in honor of the occasion. We rattled along
an excellent road, for we have certainly done wonders in

(08:22):
road building. Here, past paddy fields where the slow carabao
grazed with little children perched on their backs, past troops
of natives with their loads standing alongside. Governor General Forbes
had made the most wonderful preparations for the trip. It
was the first time that any American officials, only insular
officials previously, had gone into these wild people. And of

(08:45):
course the Secretary is the highest in rank that can
visit the islands, since he is the one through whom
the President governs the Philippines, and the President can never come.
The trip was unique and all the arrangements were extraordinary.
For a new trail had been planned into the mountains,
but was not due to be done for eight months,
and yet thousands of these wild men had been called

(09:07):
in and helped to finish the road so much the
more quickly, for we were the first party to pass
over it, and some of the bridges had only been
finished the night before. We passed eagerly and willingly when
they were told that the Great Apo was coming in
to visit them. Forbes had sent to Hong Kong for
some rickshaws and had had men trained to pull and

(09:28):
push them, but these had not stood the test well,
and we didn't have the need or the chance to
use them. He also had had plankin chairs brought over
from China and men taught in a way to carry them,
and these we did use on some of the steep descents,
but we rode horses, excellent ones from Forbes's own stable
almost all the way. Every three kilometers, companies of igorots

(09:52):
and ifugaoos were stationed to act as cargodorus and rush
along the baggage by relays, and this they it did
with shouts and cheers, as quickly as we traveled. Tiffin
and breakfasts had been prepared all along the way. Every
eventuality had been anticipated, and it was really too well
done for it made our traveling seem so easy that

(10:14):
we had to think hard to realize into what out
of the way places we were going a few days before,
it would have been necessary to work our way over
the perpendicular Old trails with difficulty finding bearers for our packs,
and we would have been compelled to carry our own food.
A severe trip and a hard undertaking we went, and
absolutely unarmed and without escort, and yet nearly every native

(10:38):
that we saw after we reached the hills carried his
spear and head axe, but there wasn't a suggestion of danger.
People were brought together on this occasion from different tribes
who two years ago would have killed each other at sight,
and yet to day we're dancing with each other. We
were accompanied by the governors of the sub provinces as

(10:59):
we passed through them, and an unarmed orderly and Sergeant
Doyle who had charge of Governor Forbes's horses, and generally
by a shouting horde of natives. The Secretary proved a
wonder well mounted as he was, he led on at
a great pace till it seemed a sort of endurance test.
I was more than pleased to find that I stood

(11:19):
it as I did, for we traveled four days out
of the five, for forty miles a day, and rode
most of it a horseback. I came out finally in
much better form than when I went in. And so
from the beach where we landed, the karamattos carried us
across the low coast plain, over new bridges on which
the inscription stated that they had been finished for the

(11:41):
passage of the Secretary and his party, and under triumphal
arches made of bamboo, which welcomed him. All the natives
whom we passed saluted, and many wished to shake hands
or only touch the hand as we passed, till we
came into the foothills and over them into a little
village of Nepa huts an the bamboo and tropical trees,

(12:02):
where we found our horses waiting. Here we mounted and
started off at a good pace over the well built
road that trailed around cliff and crag. As we worked
into the mountains, a procession a cavalcade, winding in and out.
We traveled along the valley of a river that later
became a gorge with steep cliffs and precipitous sides. All

(12:23):
the natives were out to greet the Secretary, and finally
we came to a tiny village where we had a
drink of refreshing cocoanut water, all the people standing about
or hanging out of the windows of the simple houses,
which looked very clean and neat. We trailed on along
the narrow road, cut into the rock in many places,

(12:44):
really a remarkable road, and up the gorge with the
rushing river below us. The mountains rose high and opened
up in lovely velvety greens and shaded away into the
blues of distance. We stopped at a little native rest
house above a fort in the river, where we found
a luncheon prepared for us, but it was a hurried luncheon.
And on we went, climbing a winding trail that zigzagged

(13:07):
up the steep mountain side, through tropical tangle of bamboo
and fern, and great overhanging trees with trailing parasites, the
ghost tree, the hard woods, and some with a beautiful
mauve flower at the top that even mister Worcester couldn't
tell me the name of. He said he had been
so busy inventing names for the birds that they hadn't

(13:27):
had time yet to find names for trees. And below
the views opened up wider and more splendid, and range
on range of mountains rose above each other, while the
precipices grew deeper and more terrifying. And suddenly, as we
came to a turn in the trail, there appeared above
us a most picturesque site against the sky line. Some

(13:50):
Ifugawa warriors lithe beautifully formed men whose small size was
lost in their symmetry, with spears in their hands, turbans
of blue wrapped about their heads, and loincloths of blue
with touches of red and yellow in their streaming ends
that hung like an apron before and like a tail
behind their handsome brown bodies like mahogany. They had belts

(14:13):
made of round shells from which hung their bolos. These
were the head men of a company of Ifugaws who
had come this far to greet the party, and they
stood so gracefully on the point above us. And around
the turn we found the rest of the band, stunning
looking fellows, standing at attention in line behind their lances,
which were stuck in a row in the ground. Here

(14:34):
we had another tiffin, while these warriors seized and scampered
off with our luggage. From this time on, as we traveled,
we found reliefs of these picturesque people waiting their turn
at carrying, and then all would join in the procession
and shouting at cheer like American collegians their war cry.
They would rush on and frighten us to death with

(14:55):
the risk of going over the steep places. Away off
in the distance, re echoing through the valleys, we could
hear the cheers and cries very musical of others of
our party as they traveled along. Soon we began to
be greeted by the tom toms of natives who had
come out to honor the Secretary, and by their singing
as we approached, and then they would dance round in

(15:18):
a strange way as we passed on. The Ifugawos had
come to meet the Secretary from several days journey away,
mostly through Bontoc Igorot country, all armed, and yet there
hadn't been a sign of trouble. And these Ifugawos, who
two years ago were wild head hunters, had been brought
into wonderful control by their governor Galman. There are some

(15:41):
one hundred and twenty thousand of these picturesque people, among
whom head hunting is now nearly stamped out, though there
are sporadic cases doubtless these little savages too appear most
gentle and tractable, most willing and laughing in the rough
tumbling of the trail. And they have proved very clever,
for they were the builders of the roads over which

(16:02):
we traveled. We were told that they could drill rock
better than Americans on a few months practice, and that
they have sat for a few days and watched Japanese
brick layers get brick, and then done it as well
as the Japanese. But indeed their seminteras their paddy fields,
their terracing, which they have practiced for hundreds of years,

(16:23):
is the most wonderful in the world, and there is
nothing even in Japan to compare with their work of
this kind. Their great game of head hunting has taught
them cleverness, and they are full snap and go. The
Ifugawo is a great talker and has all the gestures
of an orator. When he begins a speech, he first
gives a long call to attract attention, then climbs a

(16:45):
stand fifteen feet high by means of a ladder. He
generally begins his remarks by stating that he is a
very rich man, and goes on to praise himself at
his tribe, and at the end of his harangue, he
often himself leads off in the applause by loudly clapping
his hands. He has become a fine rifleman and is

(17:05):
a fearless fighter. In clout coat and cap and a
belt of ammunition. With legs bare, he travels incredible distances
and makes a good constabulary soldier. The governor General is
anxious to form them into a militia, but they lose
their grip, we were told when they are taken down
from the hills to the plain. And so we went

(17:27):
on up to over four thousand feet to where the
pass broke through the mountain, and there before us was
a vast valley with a splendid plain beyond, and in
the middle of it, on a prominence, we could see Servantes,
where we were to stop our first night. It seemed
so near and yet proved many miles away. As we
traced our way down the steep coasts of the valley,

(17:50):
and the view of the plain below widened, and the
ranges of mountains beyond rose into finer heights. We twisted
and trailed zigzag down the pine clad slopes with a
change of vegetation due to the mountain range, which divided
a different climate on either side of it. In passing
over the ridge had been remarkable, and though we had

(18:10):
seen rare orchids and pogonias as we mounted, we descended
from the same height through pine and pasture. When finally
we reached the plateau and had crossed a river bed,
we were met by the people of the village of Serrantes,
many girls in gay dress riding astride on their midget ponies,
and men and boys on their rugged little mounts. These

(18:32):
escorted the party under the triumphal arches into the grass
streets of the pretty village, where the simple public buildings
were decorated and the local band played till we finally
were taken to the houses where we were to spend
the night, the Secretary and the governor, and Clark and
myself going to the lieutenant governors. He was married to

(18:52):
a Filipino wife. And here I must say that we
met several of these Filipino wives of white men, and
they had most proof manners and self possession and real grace.
And this one was a good cook. The house was
a best class native house, and more comfortable than we
had anticipated, though there were sounds and smells that rather

(19:13):
disturbed us. There was a reception and by lay at
the municipal building in the evening, where we had to
go and dance a rigadon each partnered off with some
dainty little Filipina lady, and then we did hurry home
to rest, for we had been up since half after
four that morning and were to start next morning a
little after five. The next day's trail was very fine,

(19:36):
for we started off over a river which we crossed
on a flying bridge a swinging car on a cable
while the horses were forded, and then we had splendid
but slow climbing up the gorge of one river after another,
coasting the mountain side, where we could see the mark
of the trail many miles ahead above us, and part
of our possession trailing along in a single file or

(19:58):
rushing along with distant sheps as the little willing native
Cargidorus carried their loads up and up above us rose
Mount Data with its mysterious waterfall that seemed to come
right out of its peak, and cloud circled about us
and below the valleys streaked away into the distance. And
the ranges rose higher and higher, and the play of

(20:20):
light and shadow was beautiful on the greens and grays
and browns and blues of the distances. We began to
see rancieras the native villages perched up on the hills,
the thatched roofs like haystacks, with blue smoke at times
coming through, and paddy fields began to climb the upper

(20:40):
valleys in their terraces, with the pale green rice and
fridges of the banana palm, of which the hemp is made.
In places, the red croton was planted on the terraces
for luck, and in the ravines which recrossed there were
cascading falls and pools. We rose higher and higher over
another rain, and at the tip top of the trail

(21:02):
another group of igorots were dancing and playing their tom
toms as we passed, and rushed alongside to touch fingers.
Soon we passed through a village built in a stony
gorge where a river ran down. The houses consisted of
conical thatched roofs supported on four wooden piers, with ladders
leading up into the roofs where the people lived. The

(21:23):
foundations were terraced in stone and the paths were stone terraced,
and it all looked very neat and clean. On our
way back we stopped for tiffin at the same village
and had the women come and show us how they weave,
for it was a place famed for its weaving. This
time our tiffon was farther on, at a rest house
with a splendid view, and it had been laid out

(21:45):
so prettily with temporary flower beds and bamboo arches. The
Belgian priest from a town near by had come to
join us at luncheon, and although he spoke no English,
I had a pleasant time with him in French, for
he proved to be a sort of relative of our cousins,
the des Buisses. His name was Padre Sepulcher, one of

(22:06):
a band of Belgians belonging to no order, but educated
highly for missionary priesthood, who have been sent out since
our occupation by the Pope, and many of whom are
rich and gentlemen born. This one had already in two
years spent some twenty thousand dollars gold of his own
money in his town. Another such missionary we met at Bontoc,

(22:28):
and several and other places and are said to do
good work. We started off after Tiffin on the long
trail that wound down the gorge of El Chico de
Cagayan River. On our way to Bontoc, villages became more
numerous and were very picturesque on the spurs of mountain
above the river, or empowered in coffee trees, where the

(22:51):
mountain coasts were patched with pineapple plantations, and the paddy
fields grew in terrace after terrace, most splendid engineering by
these primitive people, rising above each other, up into the clouds,
fitting into the contours of the mountain sides, the terrace
walls overgrown with green, and the pale green paddy within,

(23:11):
and little cascades carrying the water down from terrace to
terrace most lovely, like some great hanging gardens. Little brown
people were stooping at work in them, all naked, but
with their clothes covered by leaves and balanced on their
heads to be kept dry, for there were showers and
cloud effects that added to the beauty of the panorama.

(23:32):
As we passed. The terraces add beauty and interest to
the eye by their succession of levels, and as we
traveled into the country, they became more frequent and complete.
Curiously enough, the Bontoc Igorots have forest laws and a
forest service of their own. The mountain sides of their
rough country are sparsely timbered with pine, which has grown

(23:54):
very scarce near some of the larger settlements. Forests in
the vicinity of settlements are divided up into small private
holdings claimed by individuals whose right there too is recognized
by the other members of the tribe. In many places,
it is forbidden to cut trees until they have reached
a large size, although the lower branches are constantly trimmed

(24:17):
off and used for firewood. Forest fires are kept down
to facilitate reforestation, and young trees are planted. Such foresight
on the part of a primitive people is certainly unusual.
So we traveled all day till toward half after five.
We turned to point and came to Bontoc after a

(24:38):
procession of natives had come streaming out some miles up
the gorge to meet the party. Bontalk is a capital
of the Mountain province and was the goal of our journey.
The native town is very dirty and is acknowledged to
be one of the worst of the native villages in
the more savage places the towns are said to be cleaner.
We walked through it where the terraced stone wall, passed

(25:00):
by stone pits where the pigs wallow, and by thatched
houses which have no exit for the smoke, and so
are filthy and in dreadful condition. We saw the communal
shacks in which the unmarried and widowed members live with
their peculiar rights, and the sites where the old men
resort to talk. And we stood outside the wretched place

(25:21):
where the skulls are kept, and some heads, all black
and smoked, were brought out in a basket from the
secret recesses for us to see. Some of these bontoc
Igorots are skillful smiths, and they make excellent earthen pots
and clay pipes. They have interesting athletic sports of their own,
and take to those of the Americans. They are especially

(25:43):
fond of beads, which are wound in their hair or
hung about the neck, and greatly value large white stones,
caring little for agates, so highly prized by the Kalingoths.
Into Bontac for this great occasion had been brought warriors
and women from the koling Go and Ifugawos with Igorots
from about some from a distance of several days travel,

(26:06):
and for the first time these warring tribes, who only
two years before were taking each other's heads, came peacefully
together and watched each other with as much interest as
they watched us. The adventures of the American lieutenant governors
read like romances, and here they were before us, with
their following the killing us, more dangerous and warlike than

(26:29):
the Ifugawos, and the Ifugawos, more picturesque and interesting than
the Igorots, and altogether making an ever to be forgotten seen.
There were two several small companies of native constabulary, for
these hill men make splendid soldiers and take great pride
in their arms and uniform, and that provided loyal to

(26:50):
the death. All the different tribes and the constabulary had
turned out to receive the Secretary, and it was a
vociferous and noisy, yelling crowd that streamed about in irregular procession.
We were, some of us taken to a government house
that was comfortable, and took our meals at a club
which the officials have built and which is quite pathetically complete.

(27:12):
And that evening we did little before turning in the
first evening since we had landed in the islands, when
we were able to turn in at a reasonable hour
with the prospect of sleeping as late as we pleased
next day. Next day was a day of festivities, a kanyao,
for from morning till night there was dancing by these

(27:32):
fantastic peoples, whom so few white men have ever seen.
We were waked early enough, alas by the Ganzas the
tom Toms, and there were parades of the different tribes
through the town. A small grandstand had been erected in
the plaza, and there we stood with the Secretary and
the few white teachers and the missionaries from about while

(27:54):
the procession was reviewed. The constabulary came first, dressed only
in loinclaws, different colors below the waist, but with the
regulation khaki uniform, blouse and cap above. They are officered
by Americans and a few natives, and are most military,
notwithstanding the strange appearance of their bare legs. Some companies

(28:15):
were very well drilled, and they gave exhibitions of different
manuals as well as any regular white soldiers might have done.
The wild colling goths came past next, most picturesque with
their feather head dresses of red and yellow, and spears
and head axes, and their brightly colored loincloths, and the
women in scant but gay garments, and not at all

(28:38):
ashamed in their nakedness. And these gave their characteristic dances
with outstretched arms, hopping and prancing about in a circle,
all the time looking down into the center of the
circle about which they dance, where the head of the
decapitated is supposed to be. There were innumerable tom toms,
which they played, with variations so as to make much

(29:00):
them and movement. And the women joined in the dancing
more moderately, some with big cigars in their mouths and
looking extremely indifferent. Then when they danced in a circle,
some would pransit to the center with shield and axe,
and pretend attacks upon each other, and leap about and
grow excited. And this sort of thing they kept up

(29:20):
all day and part of the night too. Off and on.
The Efugawos followed and passed by, and gave their dances,
which are the same with a difference, but each was
ended with a mighty shout, after which one of the
head men would step forward and deliver a rattling speech,
And they greeted the secretary variously but cordially, for they

(29:41):
like our American rule. Indeed they have never had any other,
for the Spaniards never attempted to come in and control them.
Then the bontak Igorots followed and gave exhibitions with noisy demonstrations,
and to presidentes or chiefs who six months beg four
were trying to kill each other. Danced and pranced together

(30:03):
while the tom tom's beat, and others hopped and circled round.
Most of the men were tattooed, each tribe in its
own peculiar manner, certain marks indicating that their bearer had
killed his man and taken a head. Some bore marks
of many heads. One man dancing was known to have
taken seventeen. Many of the women, too were tattooed with

(30:24):
a feather like pattern, and so the dances went on.
In some the participants postured fighting, and then represented wounded
men and others. All were head men together. Some were
rapid in motion, some slow, but all had real grace,
that grace of the wild man, and all were finely
formed and well nourished and healthy looking. When the dancing

(30:46):
was over, the groups of savages in their fantastic dress,
squatting around the plaza behind their spears stuck in the
ground with bolo and head axe and tom tom, and
the women standing about made a wonderful scene. After the
dances and speeches, the head men came up to the
Secretary and had in him weapons as gifts, sometimes their

(31:07):
own with which they had often fought. Mister Dickinson, of
course received the gifts and the head men and women afterward,
and presented them with shells and blankets and plumes in return.
The bartering among them was rather amusing, as they tried
to exchange what they had received and didn't want. At
the club, in the evening of the second day, they

(31:28):
gave us a remarkable dinner. All the Americans in the
district were present, and the few Filipinos entertained us at
a bay lay, and so our day was finished. We
started out at daylight next morning and hiked back by
the same trail, but the views seemed finer in their
repetition than even when we first passed through them. We

(31:50):
had had most superb weather, although it was the rainy season,
and had enjoyed the grand panoramas to the full. But
the last afternoon it came on to pour down in torrents,
which we enjoyed too as an experience for we came
safely to Tagoden, where the people and the band joined
in sending us off as they had received us, and

(32:10):
we were safely taken out to quite a heavy surf
and put on board the coast guard boat Negros, and
had a glass with ice in it again. End of
section fifteen. Recording by William tom Co