August 19, 2025 • 45 mins
Embark on an enlightening journey through Brazil in this captivating first-hand account by an Englishman exploring the vibrant coastal regions of the Northeast just before Brazils independence from Portugal. Kosters travels, which also lead him to the northern port city of Maranh√£o, reveal the rich cultural practices and everyday life of the Brazilian people through a refreshingly objective lens. More than a mere travelogue, this work serves as a compelling ethnographic study that immerses readers in the essence of Brazilian society. (Summary by KevinS)
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Speaker 1 (00:01):
Chapter eight, Part one to have Travels in Brazil, Volume
one by Henry Coster. This LibriVox recording is in the
public domain. Return from Sierra to Natal, Certanasios cattle, vegetable
(00:21):
Wax from Natal to Hissife. I left Sierra at daybreak
with three Indians and three loaded horses, and one of
the young men with whom I had formed an acquaintance,
accompanied me to a short distance from the town. I
deviated on my return to Arakachi in some measure from
(00:41):
the road by which I had traveled to Seyerra. The
first day passed without any circumstance worthy of being mentioned,
and I was chiefly occupied in finding out what sort
of beings my Indians were, for I had very little
conversation with them before we set off in the afternoon
of the second day, Having asked one of the Indians
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if the road was intricate to our next resting place,
and being answered that there was no turning by which
I could lose the right path, I left the loaded
horses and rode on, being tired of following them at
a foot's pace, this I had often done on other occasions.
About five o'clock I put up at a cottage in
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which were two boys whose appearance was very wretched, but
they seemed glad to say that they would let me
have a night's lodging. On inquiry, they told me that
their parents were gone to some distance to make paste
from the stem of the knauba, for that their usual food,
the flower of the mangiak, was no longer to be
had at any price in that neighborhood. I was shown
(01:45):
some of this paste, which was of a dark brown color.
Footnote Ahutha says it is white vide Appendix. Therefore, some
other ingredient may have been mixed with that which I saw,
and of the consistence of doe that has not been
sufficiently needed. It was bitter and nauseous to the taste
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on this substance. These miserable people were under the necessity
of subsisting, adding to it occasionally dried fish or meat.
My party arrived about an hour after me, and late
in the evening, the younger boy began to beg inconsiderately.
I gave him money, but shortly he returned, saying his
elder brother desired him to tell me that it would
(02:31):
be of no use to them, as nothing could be
purchased with it. Then I understood their meaning and begging.
At this moment my men were going to supper. The
children were, of course desired to sit down with them. Here, Feliciano,
one of the Indians, sowed two hides loosely round the
two bags of farina, saying that if we proceeded without
disguising what they contained, we should, at some hamlet upon
(02:54):
the road be obliged to satisfy the people who would
probably beg part of it from us. He had not
known before he inquired from these children that this part
of the country was in such a dreadful state of want.
The inhabitants had eaten up their own scanty crop, and
some of them had even been tempted by the exorbitant
price to carry their stock to Sierra for sale. They
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had not heard of the supply which had arrived at
that place from the southward. We reached Aracaci on the
fifth day. I remained two days at Aracaci that the
horses might be brought from the island upon which they
had been put out to grass. I experienced fully now
what the guide had before told me respecting the horses.
(03:38):
They had all lost flesh, and were apparently less fit
for work than when I first arrived at Aracaci, though
doubtless the relief from daily work for so long a
period must have rendered them better able to renew it again. Now,
the Spanish discoverers in South America, who understood the business
into which they had entered, strongly inculcated to their peace
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the necessity of the steady and regular continuance of their journeys,
unless a pause could have been made for some length
of time. Footnote Gabeca Devaka is particularly mentioned. History of Brazil,
volume one, page one O nine end, footnote. I bought
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a large dog at Arakaci, which had been trained to
keep watch over the baggage of travelers. A man presented
himself here, requesting to be allowed to go with me
to Pernambuco. He described himself as a Portuguese sailor and
European by birth, and as having belonged to the Portuguese
sloop of war called the Andorinha, which was wrecked upon
(04:42):
the coast between Para and Marignan. He traveled from the
spot at which he had landed to this place without
any assistance from government, though provision had been made by
any of the men in power for the assistance of
the persons who escaped. I consented to his joining me.
He behaved well, and I never afterwards had any cause
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to doubt the truth of his story. I had now
a great increase in my number of men and horses,
but was advised to take the men all forward with me,
as the reins might commence and the rivers fill, in
which case the more people I had to assist in
crossing them would less danger would it be accomplished. The
additional number of horses enabled me to divide the weight
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into smaller loads, and to have two or three beasts
unencumbered for the purpose of relieving the others if necessary.
The party now consisted of nine persons and eleven horses.
Senor Pajosa's kindness was still continued toward me, and I
hope I shall never cease to feel grateful for it.
I was advised to get on to the seashore as
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soon as possible on leaving Arikachi, this being the better road. Consequently,
I slept the first night distant three leagues from that place,
at al Goa Domatu, small lake which was now nearly
dried up. The following morning, we traveled over the sands,
passed a small village near to the shore called Jithiro,
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and slipped at Cajuais, a place we were acquainted with,
and from hence to Saint Lucia we followed the same
route as in going to Sierra. From Cajuaiss, we passed
through areas famous for the ghost story, and rested at Tibou,
proceeding in the afternoon with the intention of sleeping at
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the unfinished house on the road to Ilia, but the
night was closing in upon us when we were still
two leagues short of it, and for this reason it
was thought advisable to stop and pass the night among
the brushwood. We had several showers of rain occasionally for
some days passed, and although they were slight, the grass
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had begun to spring up in some places. The rapidity
of vegetation in Brazil is truly astonishing. Rain in the
evening upon good soil will by sunrise have given a
greenish tinge to the earth, which is increased if the
rain continues. On the second day, two sprouts of grass
of an inch in length, and these on the third
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day are sufficiently long to be picked up by the
half starved cattle. The brushwood among which we had determined
to pass the night was low and not close, so
that only two shrubs were found to be near enough
to each other and of sufficient strength to support a hammock.
Between these, Mine was hung whilst the people took up
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their quarters upon the packages, as to them seemed best.
Between one and two o'clock in the morning, the rain commenced,
at first with some moderation. The guide fastened two quarts
from shrub to shrub above my hammock, and laid some
hides upon them as a covering for me. But soon
the rain increased and the whole party crowded under the hides.
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I got up, and all of us stood together, and
some degrees sheltered until the hides fell down, owing to
their being quite Our fires were, of course completely extinguished.
I reminded my people of the necessity of keeping the
locks of our firearms dry. Indeed, those persons of the
party who knew these certans must be even more aware
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than myself of the number of jaguars which are to
be met with upon these Travesias I had not spoken
many minutes before Felicianos said he heard the growl of
one of these animals. He was right, for a lot
of mares galloped across the path not far from us,
and shortly after the growl was distinctly heard. Many of
these beasts were near us during the remainder of the night.
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As we heard the growl in several directions. We stood
with our backs to each other and by no means
free from the chance of being attacked. Though the Indians
from time to time set up a sort of song
or howl, such as practiced by the Certinasias when gotting
large droves of half tame cattle with the intent of
frightening the jaguars. Towards daybreak, the deluge somewhat, but still
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the rain was hard and it did not cease in
the morning. There was much difficulty in finding the horses,
as the jaguars had frightened and scattered them. Indeed, we
much doubted whether they would all be alive, but I
supposed the wild cattle were preferred as being in better condition.
The loads were arranged and we proceeded to Ilia distant
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six leagues, arriving there about two o'clock in the afternoon,
after having sustained twelve hours of continued rain. The owner
of the estate of Ilia sent a message to say
that he wished me to remove from the outhouse in
which I had settled myself for the remainder of the day,
and ensuing night to his residence. I accepted his offer.
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It was a low mud cottage covered with tiles which
had been made from the clay found upon the skirts
of the salt marsh near to which his house stood.
He gave us plenty of milk and dried meat. There
was the scarcity of farina, but a plentiful year was
expected ediately. On my entrance into his house, he offered
me his hammock in which he had been sitting, but
(10:05):
mine was soon slung, and we sat, talked and smoked
for a considerable time. The mosquitoes were very troublesome. Indeed,
from this time we were scarcely ever without them at night,
and they annoyed us more or less according to the
state of the wind and the quantity of rain which
had fallen during the day. The inconvenience occasioned by these
insects is inconceivable until it has been experienced. The next
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day we advanced to the village of Saint Lucia and
rested at noon there in an unfinished cottage. Soon after
we had unloaded our horses, and I had lain myself
down in my hammock, intending to sleep. The guide told
me that a number of people appeared to be assembling
near to us, and that I ought to recollect the
(10:51):
quarrel which we had had here and going. I got
up and asked for my trunk, opened it with as
little apparent design as possible, turned over several things in it,
and taking out the red bag, placed it upon a
large log of timber near to me, And then I
continued to search in the trunk, as if for something
I could not immediately find. When I looked up again,
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in a few minutes, all the persons who had assembled
were gone. Either the important consequences attending this bag were known.
That of having the power of making a requisition of horses,
or some other idea of my situation in life was
given by the side of this magical bag. The river
near Saint Lucia had not yet filled. We proceeded in
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the afternoon and reached the banks of the river Panema,
a narrow but now a rapid stream. One of the
men went in to try if it was fortable, but
before he was half way cross he found that it
would be impossible to pass, as the rapidity in depth
would effectually prevent any attempt to carry the packages over
(12:00):
the heads of the Indians. I desired the people to
remain where they were, whilst I turned back with a
Guayana guide to look for some habitation, because, owing to
the commencement of the reins, sleeping in the open air
would have been highly imprudent. We made for a house
which was situated among the Knauba trees at some distance
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from the road, and as the owner of it said
that he could accommodate us and that there was abundance
of grass for our horses, the guide returned to bring
the party to this place, which was called Saint Anna.
In the course of the night, I had an attack
of agu, which would have delayed me at Saint Anna,
even if the height of the waters had not prevented
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me from proceeding. However, I became more unwell, and perhaps
I imagined myself to be worse than I really was.
But I began to wish to arrive at Assou, as
by so doing I should be advancing upon my journey,
and at the same time, I should obtain the advantage
of being near to some priest, to whom I could
impart any message which I might have to send to
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my friends. Although I was not in immediate danger, I
was aware of the sudden changes to which aguish disorders
are liable. As soon as the waters began to subside,
I determined to remove, But as I could not mount
on horseback, would be necessary that I should be carried
in a hammock. However, the difficulty consisted in procuring a
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sufficient number of men. By waiting another day, six persons
were obtained from the cottages in the vicinity, some of
which were distant more than a league. On the fifth
day from that of my arrival here we set off,
crossed the river, which was barely fordable, and entered upon
the flooded lands. The waters covered the whole face of
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the country, though they were now subsiding a little. The
depth was in part up to the waste, but was
in general less than knee deep. The men knew the
way from practice, but even the guide whom I hired
at Aussou could not have found it without the assistance
of those who carried me. At noon, the hammock with
me in. It was hung between two trees, resting the
(14:12):
two ends of the pole by which the men carried
it upon two forked branches, and hides were placed over
this pole to shave me from the sun. As the
trees had not recovered from the drought and were yet
with leaves, the men slung their hammocks. Also. The packages
were supported upon the branches of trees, and the horses
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stood in the water and eat their maize out of
bags which were tied round their heads. The water was
shallow here, as this spot was rather higher than the
lands around, and in one place the ground was beginning
to make its appearance. At dusk we reached Shefatis, a
fazenda situated upon dry land, and here we put up
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under an unfinished house. The horse upon which my trunk
and case of bottles had traveled had fallen down, and
to add to my discomfort, my clothes were completely wetted,
and even the red bag did not entirely escape. I
passed a wretched night from the agiu and from over fatigue.
The following morning I had some conversation with the owner
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of the place, and purchased two of his horses At noon,
I sent off the camboyo under the care of Feliciano,
who was desired to reach Piazto the following night. I
remained with a Guyana guide and Julio, who had been
promoted to John's place of groom. With considerable difficulty, the
packages were carried across the river which runs just below
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the estate. The stream was rapid and the stony bed
in which it runs increased the difficulty. When I passed
on the morning following, the depth and rapidity of the
current were considerably diminished, for no rain had fallen during
the night. I mounted the two persons who accompanied me
upon the two horses which had been purchased the day before,
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and I rode a lead horse, which was quite fresh,
resolving to arrive at Piato, distant ten leagues in one day.
This I accomplished, resting only a short time at noon.
I was very unfit for so much exertion, but the
necessity of the case did not allow me any alternative.
But I was determined to ride until absolute exhaustion forced
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me to give way. We overtook my people, and all
of us rested at the same place. Feliciano shot an
antelope upon which we dined. It was seldom, if ever
absolutely necessary to depend upon our guns for subsistence, though
the provision thus obtained was by no means unacceptable. As
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it varied our diet, we could generally either purchase a
considerable supply of dried meat, or, as occasionally occurred, was
afforded us gratuitously. She were sometimes to be bought, and
at others fowls might be obtained on inquiring at the cottages.
But although numbers of the latter were to be seen
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about the huts and high price offered, still the owners
frequently refused to part with them. The women, naturally enough,
had the management of this department of household arrangement, and
after much bargaining, the housewife would often at last declare
that all of them were such favorites that she and
her children could not resolve to have any of them killed.
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This behavior became so frequent that at last, when either
the guide or myself rode up to a cottage to
purchase a fowl, it was quite decisive with us If
the husband called to his wife saying that she would
settle the matter unless we had time to spare for talking.
We generally went our way. My friend the Commandant was
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still residing at Piato. I felt as if I was
returning home. My spirits were low, and any trifle relieved them.
This night I was still very unwell. Thirst was great,
and nothing satisfied and allated so much as watermelons, of
which there was here a superabundance. I ate several of them.
The Guide said I should kill myself, but I thought otherwise,
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for I liked the fruit. In the morning, I woke
up quite a changed person, and the agu returned no more.
The guide often said afterwards that he never had known
until the present occasion that watermelons might be taken as
a cure for the agu. He was quite certain that
they had performed the cure, and that they would have
the same effect upon all persons in the same disease.
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Such are the changes to which this strange complaint is subject,
often thus suddenly leaving the patient, but as frequently or
more so, ending in fever and delirium. However, it seldom
proves fatal. On the morrow we left Piato with the
addition to our party of a small tame sheep and
a tame tatubola or armadillo, both having been given to
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me by the commandant. The former kept pace with the
horses for many days, and it never gave us any
trouble until the long continuance of the journey wearied it out,
and then I was obliged to make room for it
one of the panniers. In this manner, it traveled for
a day or two at a time. The armadillo was
conveyed in a small bag, and only on one occasion
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gave us any trouble. When we released it at our
resting places, it usually remained among the packages, either feeding
or rolled up. It was with some difficulty that Mimosa
was prevented from annoying it, but latterly she and the
armadillo were very good friends. At Asoux, I changed one
of my horses for another that was in better condition,
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and gave about the value of a guinea to boot.
Our friends, the sattler and the owner of the house
which we had inhabited in going, received us very cordially
and offered to assist us in crossing the river, which
was full, but they advised me to wait for a
decrease at the dea than rapidity of the stream. However,
I was anxious to advance. My people made no objection. Here.
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I discharged the young man whom I had taken from
hence as a guide to Arakachi. We crossed the smaller
branch of the river, with water reaching to the flaps
of the saddles. When we arrived at the second and
principal branch, it was discovered that a jangada would be
necessary to convey the baggage across. Several of the inhabitants
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of the place had followed us, judging that this would
be the case, and they were willing to be of
service to us and expectation of being compensated for their trouble.
A few logs of timber were soon procured. Some of
them had been brought down by the stream and were
now upon the banks, and others were conveyed from the town.
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The cords with which the packages were fastened to the
pack settles were made use of to tie the logs
together for the purpose of forming the raft. The father
of the young man who had been with me to
Arikachi accompanied us to the river side to assist, and
had brought me Mosso with him. I requested him to
secure her, otherwise I thought she would follow me. He
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did so, and sent her back to the town by
a boy. When the raft was prepared, the saddles and
all the packages were placed upon it, and I sat
down among them. Four men laid hold of each side
of the raft and shoved off from the shore, and
when they lost their footing, each man kept hold of
the raft with one hand, swimming with the other. But
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notwithstanding their exertions, the stream carried us down about fifty
yards before we reached the other side, which, however, was
gained in safety. The Indians were already there with their horses.
The river of Asou is from two to three hundred
yards in breath. It was now deep and dangerous, and
from the violence of the current. A guide is requisite
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that advantage may be taken of the shallowest parts. These
Certanasios have a curious contrivance for crossing rivers, which is
formed of three pieces of wood, and upon this they
paddled themselves to the opposite side. I heard it often
spoken of by the name of Cavalecchi, but as I
did not see any of them, I cannot pretend to
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give an exact description. Footnote. There is a print in
Bartlaus which represents the Portuguese crossing the River Saint Francisco
upon rafts or logs of timber. These must, I think
have been similar to those which are at present used
in the certon end footnote. The men soon left us
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to arrange the loads, which we were doing with all
possible expedition, when, on turning around I saw Mimosa running
up to me, half crouched and half afraid. I'd often
wish to purchase this animal, but nothing would induce her
master to part with her. He said that he had
had her from a whelp, and added that if he
put the pot upon the fire, and then when out
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with her, he was sure to return by the time
it boiled, bringing something with which to fill it. He
did not mean that this was literally the case, but
thus quaintly he wished to impress the idea of her
great expertness in hunting. She followed us as she found
that she was well received. We advanced and halted at
Saint Ursula, a fazenda distant from Assou one league and
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a half, and here we slept. The roads lay through
woods which were thick and close. From hence to the
Sierra merin the country was new to me as I
deviated from the road by which I had arrived at Assiou.
On my way northwards, I now took the shortest road
to Natal, but had frequently to cross this winding river.
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Whilst I was at dinner, Mimosa was near to me,
watching for her share, when suddenly she crept under the
bench upon which I sat. I soon saw what had
caused this movement, for the old man, the father of
her owner, was coming towards us. He said that he
came for his son's dog. I persuaded him to sell her,
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and when he was going his way, Mimosa ran out
from under the bench and fawned upon him. I told
him to go on and invite her to follow him,
But upon this she immediately returned, growling to our old
station under the bench. She had been better treated and
better fed with me than when she was with her master.
I always fed her myself, and had several times prevented
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him from beating her. The next day we passed through
the fazendas of Passaga me Baja. The road was over
loose stony ground, and we crossed one dry marsh. In
the afternoon, we traveled from Saint Bento to angquos, which
obliged us to pass over some higher ground, which was
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very stony and painful to our horses. We crossed a
small shallow stream several times. Our next day, is March,
carried us across more stony ground. The persons to whom
we spoke said that there had been no rain. Indeed
this was evident. There was no grass, and the country
was yet parched and dreary. The horses had no water
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at noon, for the well was small, and the spring
which supplied it was insufficient for so great a number
of beasts. I was thirsty in the afternoon, and therefore
left the Comboyu to follow at its usual pace, and
rode on, accompanied by Julio. The two dogs likewise would
come with us. We entered upon a plan, and now,
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for the second time I saw in Emma a species
of ostrich Notwithstanding my attempts to prevent them, the dogs
set off after it, and much against my inclination, I
was obliged to wait until their return. The bird ran
from them with great velocity, flapping its wings, but never
leaving the ground. The amos outstripped the fleetest horses. The
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color of the one which we saw was a dark gray.
Its height, including the neck, which was very long, was
about that of a man on horseback, and it had
that appearance at first sight when at some distance. These
certinacious say that when pursued, the emma spurs itself to
run the faster, that the spurs or pointed bones are
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placed in the inside of the wings, and that as
these are flapped, the bones strike the sides and wound them.
I've heard many people say that when an emma is
caught after a hard chase, the sides are found to
be bloody. It is possible that this effect may be
produced by some costs similar to that which a pig
cuts its own throat and swimming. The eggs of the
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amma are large, and all the food which they afford
is coarse. It is not unpalatable. The feathers are much esteemed.
When the dogs return, we continued our journey. The road
led us between high rocks, and after proceeding along it
for some time, the dog suddenly struck from the path
and went up the side of a flat rock, which
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sloped down towards the road, but was sufficiently low to
allow of a horse as sending it. Our horses stopped
and snuffed up the air. Julio cried out at the
same time water and spurred his horse to follow the dogs,
and I did the same. Julio was quite correct in
what he had supposed. From the direction which the dogs
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immediately took, and from the stopping of the horse, there
was along and narrow but deep cleft in the rock,
which was nearly full of water, clear and cold. The
sides of the cleft slanted inwards, and the water was
below the surface, so that the dogs were running round
and howling without being able to reach it. The horses, too,
as soon as we dismounted, and they saw the water,
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began to paw and attempt to press forwards to drink.
We brought no vessel with which to take up any water,
and were under the necessity of using our hats to
satisfy the horses and dogs. The rest of the party
came up after some time. Feliciano was acquainted with the spot,
but if the dogs and horses had not pointed out
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to Julio, he and I should have missed it. We
were delayed considerably in giving water enough to all the horses,
as we had no large vessel in which to take
it up. I heard from Feliciano, and subsequently from other persons,
that these clefts in the rock are common, and that
they are known to few, and those principally of his
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rank and occupation and life, and that this knowledge enabled
them to find plenty of water when others were in
great distress. He said, we never refused to give information,
but we say as little about it as possible. I
traveled until ten o'clock at night, wishing to reach some fazenda,
not to remain in the open air, as there were
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several heavy clouds flying about, from the look of which
we well knew that if the wind abated, rain would
come on. Reached a fazenda and applied for a night's lodging,
which was granted, but upon a survey of the interior
of the house, I preferred the open air, with all
its disadvantages. The place was full of persons who had
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assembled from the neighboring estates in expectation of rain, as
they had come to assist in collecting cattle. The fellows
were eating dried meat and had by some means obtained
a quantity of rum. I took up my station at
a distance from the house and we scarcely laid down
during the night from fear of the rain, and in
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some measure that we might be prepared to prevent any
of our horses being stolen as a piece of sport
by the people in the house. The next day we
crossed over a plain which was partly without trees and
in part covered with brushwood. In going over this last
portion I pushed on with Julio, leaving the Camboyo to
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follow us. We had nearly lost our way at the
division of several paths. Even Julio's knowledge was insufficient, and
had we not met some travelers and inquired of them,
I know not how far from the baggage we might
have been at night. On the following morning we advanced again,
took water and skins near to some cottages, and at
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noon stationed ourselves in the bed of a rivulet, where
there was good grass but no water, as the bed
was lower than the neighboring land. The very first shower
had made the grass spring up, though there had not
been rained sufficient to excite vegetation upon its banks. Here
the armadillo straight into some brushwood. Feliciano followed it by
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the marks of its footsteps over the grass and dried leaves,
and brought it back. I'm quite confident that he did
not see which way it went, and to a person
unused to tracing footsteps, there appeared to be none. If
it had passed over sand, there would not have been
anything extraordinary in discovering the way which the animal had taken.
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But upon the grass and dry leaves, so small an
animal could make but a most trifling impression. I mention
at this place accidentally that the skins had spoiled the water,
for it tasted of the grease with which they had
been rubbed. Feliciano heard me, and took up a small
skin that lay empty, which was old and therefore not greasy,
(31:19):
and said, I'll try to find some for you that
is better, and away he went. In about an hour
he returned with a skin full of excellent water. He
had recollected a cleft in a rock at some distance,
and had gone to see if any yet remained in it.
We slept at a fazenda, and the next day proceeded
in the expectation of reaching the Sierra Mehrim, which we did.
(31:43):
This tract of country had not recovered from the drought
but the trees were beginning to be clothed, and the
grass under them was in most parts of sufficient length
to afford subsistence to our horses. Water was still scarce
and bad, but the rain had made it less brackish,
more plentiful. We passed over the Travacia with all possible haste,
(32:05):
as the floods were expected shortly, and sometimes the water
comes down, as I have before stated, with great rapidity.
There is some danger in being caught by the water
upon any of the peninsulas or islands which are formed
by its bends. For to be under necessity of crossing
over a stream which runs with much violence, perhaps ten
(32:26):
times or more successively, would be too much for almost
any horse to bear, and particularly for those which were
already fatigued by a long journey. We left the Sierra
Merim in four days, passed by Paolo, and early on
the fifth day arrived again at the Dry Lake. The
people of this place were upon the point of decamping,
(32:47):
as the rains were expected, or rather had already commenced.
We now met several parties of travelers who had taken
advantage of the first rains to pass over this tract
of country. And who were hastening before the floods came
down the river. January is not properly speaking, the urrainy season.
The rains at the commencement of the year are called
(33:09):
the primeras aguas or the first waters, and continue for
about a fortnight or three weeks, after which the weather
generally becomes again settled until May or June, and from
this time until the end of August. The rains are
usually pretty constant. From August or September until the opening
of the year, there is not usually any rain. The
(33:31):
dry weather can be depended upon with more certainty from
September until January than from February until May. Likewise, the
wet weather can be looked for with more certainty from
June until August than in January. There are very few
days during the whole course of the year of incessant rain.
What I have said regarding the seasons must however, be
(33:53):
taken with some latitude, as in all climates they are
subject to variation. The horse I left at the dry
Lake was faithfully delivered to me, and I continued my journey.
On the following day to Natal. The governor received me
with the same cordiality as before. I now left these Certans,
and though it treated me rather roughly, still I've always
(34:16):
wished I could have seen more of it. There is
a certain pleasure which I cannot describe in crossing new countries,
and that portion of territory over which I had traveled
was new to an Englishman. From the sensations which I experienced,
I can well imagine what those are which travelers in
unexplored countries must feel at every step, at every novelty
(34:39):
which comes under their view. There is yet much ground
upon the continent of South America to be traversed, and
I most heartily wished that it had been my fate
to be the civilized individual first doomed to cross from
Pernambuco to Lima. I have perhaps hardly said sufficient to
give a correct idea of the inhabitants of the fasendas
(35:00):
or cattle estates. Unlike the peones of the country and
the vicinity of the River Plata, the Certanasia has about
him his wife and family, and lives in comparative comfort.
The cottages are small and are built of mud, but
afford quite sufficient shelter in so fine a climate. They
are covered with tiles where these are to be had,
(35:23):
or as in more general, with the leaves of the carnauba.
Hammocks usually supply the place of beds and are by
far more comfortable, and these are more likewise used as chairs.
Most of the better sort of cottages contain a table,
but the usual practice is for the family to squat
down upon a mat in a circle, with the bowls,
(35:44):
dishes and gourds in the center, thus to eat their
meals upon the floor. Knives and forks are not much known,
and are not at all made use of by the
lower orders. It is the custom in every house, from
the highest to the lowest, as in former times, and
indeed the same practice prevails in all the parts of
the country which I visited. For a silver basin or
(36:08):
one of earthenware or aquia, and a fringe cambric towel
or one that is made of the coarse cotton cloth
of the country, to be handed round, that all those
who are going to sit down to eat may wash
their hands, and the same ceremony, or rather necessary piece
of cleanliness takes place again after the meal is finished.
(36:28):
Of the gourd's great use is made in domestic arrangements.
They are cut in two, and the pulpe is scooped out.
Then the rind is dried. And these rude vessels serve
almost every purpose of earthenware. Water is carried in them,
et cetera, and they are likewise used as measures. They
vary from six inches in circumference to about three feet,
(36:49):
and are usually rather of an oval shape. The gord,
when whole, is called gabasa, and the half of the
rind is called quia. It is a creeping plant, and
grows spontaneously in many parts, but in others. The people
planted among the mangia. The conversation of the certain Asias
usually turns upon the state of their cattle or of women,
(37:11):
and occasionally accounts of adventures which took place at Asifi
or some other town. The merits or demerits of the priest,
with whom they may happen to be acquainted, are likewise discussed,
and their irregular practices are made a subject of ridicule.
The dress of the men already has been described, but
when they are at home, a shirt and drawers alone remain.
(37:35):
The women have a more slovenly look, as their only
dress is a shift in a petticoat, no stockings and
oftentimes no shoes. But when they leave home, which is
very seldom, an addition is made of a large piece
of coarse white cloth, either of their own or of
European manufacture, and this is thrown over the head and shoulders.
(37:57):
A pair of shoes is likewise then put on. There
are good horsewomen, and the high Portuguese saddle serves the
purpose of a side saddle very completely. I never saw
any Brazilian woman riding, as is the case occasionally in Portugal.
In the manner that men do. Their employment consists in
household arrangements entirely for the men, even milk the cows
(38:19):
and goats. The women spin and work with a needle.
No females of free birth are ever seen employed in
any kind of labor in the open air, excepting in
that of occasionally fetching wood or water if the men
are not at home. The children generally run about naked
until a certain age, but this is often seen even
(38:40):
in a sifee to the age of six or seven,
boys are allowed to run about without any clothing. Formerly,
I mean before the commencement of a direct trade with England.
Both sex are dressed in a coarse cotton cloth which
is made in the country. The petticoats of this cloth
were sometimes tinged with a red dye eye, which was
(39:00):
obtained from the bark of the koipuna tree, a native
of their woods. And even now this dye is used
for tinging fishing nets, as it is said that those
which have undergone this process last the longer. In those times,
a dress of the common printed cotton of English or
of Portuguese manufacture costs from eight to twelve mil hays
(39:23):
from two to three guineas. Owing to the monopoly of
the trade, by which the merchants of Hayesifi put what
price they please upon their commodities. Other things were in proportion.
Owing to the enormous prices, European articles of dress could
of course only be possessed by the rich people. However,
(39:44):
since the opening of the ports to foreign trade, English
goods are finding their way all over the country, and
the hawkers are now a numerous body of men. The
women seldom appear, and when they are seen, do not
take any part in the conversation, unless it be some
one good wife who rules the roost. If they are
present at all. When the men are talking, they stand
(40:07):
or squat down upon the ground in the doorway leading
to the interior of the house, and merely listen. The
morals of the men are by no means strict, and
when this is the case, it must give an unfavorable
bias in some degree to those of the women. But
the certainatio is very jealous, and more murders are committed,
(40:28):
and more quarrels entered into on the score by tenfold
than on any other. These people are revengeful. An offense
is seldom pardon, and in default of law, of which
there is scarcely any each man takes it into his
own hands. This is, without any sort of doubt, a
dreadful state of society, and I do not by any
(40:50):
means pretend to speak in its justification. But if the
causes of most of the murders commit it, and beatings
given are inquired into, I have usually found that the
sufferer had only obtained what he deserved robbery, and the
certain is scarcely known. The land is, in favorable years
too plentiful to afford temptation, and in seasons of distress
(41:14):
for food, every man is for the most part equally
in want subsistence is to be obtained in an easier
manner than by stealing, in so abundant a country, and
where both parties are equally brave and resolute. But besides
these reasons, I think these Certinacios are a good race
of people. They are tractable and might easily be instructed,
(41:37):
excepting in religious matters, and these they are fast riveted.
And such was their idea of an Englishman and a heretic,
that it was on some occasions difficult to make them
believe that I, who with the figure of a human being,
was not of some nondescript race. They are extremely ignorant,
few of them possessing even the commonest rudiments of knowledge.
(42:00):
Their religion is confined to the observance of certain forms
and ceremonies, and to the frequent repetition of a few prayers,
faith and charms, relics, and other things of the same order.
These certainasos are courageous, generous, sincere, and hospitable. If a
favor is begged, they know not how to deny it.
(42:20):
But if you trade with them, either for cattle or
aught else, the character changes, and then they wish to
outwit you, conceiving success to be a piece of cleverness
of which they may boast. The following anecdote is characteristic.
A Certinasio came down from the interior with a large
drove of cattle which had been entrusted to him to sell.
(42:42):
He obtained a purchaser who was to pay him at
the close of two or three months. The Certinaso waited
to receive the money, as his home was far too
distant to return for this purpose before the expiration of
the term. The purchaser of the cattle found some means
of having him in prison. He went to him when
he was in confinement, and, pretending to be extremely sorry
(43:05):
for his misfortune, hinted that if he would allow him
to appropriate part of the debt to the purpose, he
would try to obtain his release. To this, the certainasio agreed,
and consequently soon obtained his freedom. He heard soon afterwards
how the whole of the business had been managed by
the purchaser of the cattle to avoid paying for what
(43:27):
he had bought, and he could not obtain any part
of the money. Having advised his employers and the certain
of these circumstances, he received for answer that the loss
of the money was of little consequence, but that he
must either assassinate the man who had injured him or
not return home, because he should himself suffer if the
(43:47):
insult remained unrevenged. These Certinajo immediately made preparations for returning.
He had always feigned great thankfulness towards his debtor for
obtaining his release, and a total ignorance of his unjustifiable conduct.
On the day of his departure, he rode to the
house of the man whom he had determined to destroy,
(44:09):
and dismounted whilst one of his two companions held his horse.
He saw the owner of the house, and as he
gave him the usual parting embrace, ran his long knife
into his side. He then quickly leapt onto his horse,
and the three persons rode off. None dared to molest them,
for they were well armed, and although this occurred in
(44:29):
a large town, they soon joined a considerable number of
their countrymen who waited for them in the outskirts, and
proceeded to their own country without any attempt being made
to apprehend them. These circumstances took place several years ago,
but the relatives of the man who was killed still
bear in mind his death, and a determination of revenging
(44:51):
it upon him who committed it, if he was again
to place himself within their reach. Many persons can vouch
for the truth of this story. End of Chapter eight,
Part one,
Chapter eight, Part one to have Travels in Brazil, Volume
one by Henry Coster. This LibriVox recording is in the
public domain. Return from Sierra to Natal, Certanasios cattle, vegetable
(00:21):
Wax from Natal to Hissife. I left Sierra at daybreak
with three Indians and three loaded horses, and one of
the young men with whom I had formed an acquaintance,
accompanied me to a short distance from the town. I
deviated on my return to Arakachi in some measure from
(00:41):
the road by which I had traveled to Seyerra. The
first day passed without any circumstance worthy of being mentioned,
and I was chiefly occupied in finding out what sort
of beings my Indians were, for I had very little
conversation with them before we set off in the afternoon
of the second day, Having asked one of the Indians
(01:02):
if the road was intricate to our next resting place,
and being answered that there was no turning by which
I could lose the right path, I left the loaded
horses and rode on, being tired of following them at
a foot's pace, this I had often done on other occasions.
About five o'clock I put up at a cottage in
(01:22):
which were two boys whose appearance was very wretched, but
they seemed glad to say that they would let me
have a night's lodging. On inquiry, they told me that
their parents were gone to some distance to make paste
from the stem of the knauba, for that their usual food,
the flower of the mangiak, was no longer to be
had at any price in that neighborhood. I was shown
(01:45):
some of this paste, which was of a dark brown color.
Footnote Ahutha says it is white vide Appendix. Therefore, some
other ingredient may have been mixed with that which I saw,
and of the consistence of doe that has not been
sufficiently needed. It was bitter and nauseous to the taste
(02:09):
on this substance. These miserable people were under the necessity
of subsisting, adding to it occasionally dried fish or meat.
My party arrived about an hour after me, and late
in the evening, the younger boy began to beg inconsiderately.
I gave him money, but shortly he returned, saying his
elder brother desired him to tell me that it would
(02:31):
be of no use to them, as nothing could be
purchased with it. Then I understood their meaning and begging.
At this moment my men were going to supper. The
children were, of course desired to sit down with them. Here, Feliciano,
one of the Indians, sowed two hides loosely round the
two bags of farina, saying that if we proceeded without
disguising what they contained, we should, at some hamlet upon
(02:54):
the road be obliged to satisfy the people who would
probably beg part of it from us. He had not
known before he inquired from these children that this part
of the country was in such a dreadful state of want.
The inhabitants had eaten up their own scanty crop, and
some of them had even been tempted by the exorbitant
price to carry their stock to Sierra for sale. They
(03:17):
had not heard of the supply which had arrived at
that place from the southward. We reached Aracaci on the
fifth day. I remained two days at Aracaci that the
horses might be brought from the island upon which they
had been put out to grass. I experienced fully now
what the guide had before told me respecting the horses.
(03:38):
They had all lost flesh, and were apparently less fit
for work than when I first arrived at Aracaci, though
doubtless the relief from daily work for so long a
period must have rendered them better able to renew it again. Now,
the Spanish discoverers in South America, who understood the business
into which they had entered, strongly inculcated to their peace
(04:00):
the necessity of the steady and regular continuance of their journeys,
unless a pause could have been made for some length
of time. Footnote Gabeca Devaka is particularly mentioned. History of Brazil,
volume one, page one O nine end, footnote. I bought
(04:20):
a large dog at Arakaci, which had been trained to
keep watch over the baggage of travelers. A man presented
himself here, requesting to be allowed to go with me
to Pernambuco. He described himself as a Portuguese sailor and
European by birth, and as having belonged to the Portuguese
sloop of war called the Andorinha, which was wrecked upon
(04:42):
the coast between Para and Marignan. He traveled from the
spot at which he had landed to this place without
any assistance from government, though provision had been made by
any of the men in power for the assistance of
the persons who escaped. I consented to his joining me.
He behaved well, and I never afterwards had any cause
(05:04):
to doubt the truth of his story. I had now
a great increase in my number of men and horses,
but was advised to take the men all forward with me,
as the reins might commence and the rivers fill, in
which case the more people I had to assist in
crossing them would less danger would it be accomplished. The
additional number of horses enabled me to divide the weight
(05:26):
into smaller loads, and to have two or three beasts
unencumbered for the purpose of relieving the others if necessary.
The party now consisted of nine persons and eleven horses.
Senor Pajosa's kindness was still continued toward me, and I
hope I shall never cease to feel grateful for it.
I was advised to get on to the seashore as
(05:48):
soon as possible on leaving Arikachi, this being the better road. Consequently,
I slept the first night distant three leagues from that place,
at al Goa Domatu, small lake which was now nearly
dried up. The following morning, we traveled over the sands,
passed a small village near to the shore called Jithiro,
(06:09):
and slipped at Cajuais, a place we were acquainted with,
and from hence to Saint Lucia we followed the same
route as in going to Sierra. From Cajuaiss, we passed
through areas famous for the ghost story, and rested at Tibou,
proceeding in the afternoon with the intention of sleeping at
(06:31):
the unfinished house on the road to Ilia, but the
night was closing in upon us when we were still
two leagues short of it, and for this reason it
was thought advisable to stop and pass the night among
the brushwood. We had several showers of rain occasionally for
some days passed, and although they were slight, the grass
(06:51):
had begun to spring up in some places. The rapidity
of vegetation in Brazil is truly astonishing. Rain in the
evening upon good soil will by sunrise have given a
greenish tinge to the earth, which is increased if the
rain continues. On the second day, two sprouts of grass
of an inch in length, and these on the third
(07:12):
day are sufficiently long to be picked up by the
half starved cattle. The brushwood among which we had determined
to pass the night was low and not close, so
that only two shrubs were found to be near enough
to each other and of sufficient strength to support a hammock.
Between these, Mine was hung whilst the people took up
(07:32):
their quarters upon the packages, as to them seemed best.
Between one and two o'clock in the morning, the rain commenced,
at first with some moderation. The guide fastened two quarts
from shrub to shrub above my hammock, and laid some
hides upon them as a covering for me. But soon
the rain increased and the whole party crowded under the hides.
(07:53):
I got up, and all of us stood together, and
some degrees sheltered until the hides fell down, owing to
their being quite Our fires were, of course completely extinguished.
I reminded my people of the necessity of keeping the
locks of our firearms dry. Indeed, those persons of the
party who knew these certans must be even more aware
(08:14):
than myself of the number of jaguars which are to
be met with upon these Travesias I had not spoken
many minutes before Felicianos said he heard the growl of
one of these animals. He was right, for a lot
of mares galloped across the path not far from us,
and shortly after the growl was distinctly heard. Many of
these beasts were near us during the remainder of the night.
(08:36):
As we heard the growl in several directions. We stood
with our backs to each other and by no means
free from the chance of being attacked. Though the Indians
from time to time set up a sort of song
or howl, such as practiced by the Certinasias when gotting
large droves of half tame cattle with the intent of
frightening the jaguars. Towards daybreak, the deluge somewhat, but still
(09:00):
the rain was hard and it did not cease in
the morning. There was much difficulty in finding the horses,
as the jaguars had frightened and scattered them. Indeed, we
much doubted whether they would all be alive, but I
supposed the wild cattle were preferred as being in better condition.
The loads were arranged and we proceeded to Ilia distant
(09:21):
six leagues, arriving there about two o'clock in the afternoon,
after having sustained twelve hours of continued rain. The owner
of the estate of Ilia sent a message to say
that he wished me to remove from the outhouse in
which I had settled myself for the remainder of the day,
and ensuing night to his residence. I accepted his offer.
(09:43):
It was a low mud cottage covered with tiles which
had been made from the clay found upon the skirts
of the salt marsh near to which his house stood.
He gave us plenty of milk and dried meat. There
was the scarcity of farina, but a plentiful year was
expected ediately. On my entrance into his house, he offered
me his hammock in which he had been sitting, but
(10:05):
mine was soon slung, and we sat, talked and smoked
for a considerable time. The mosquitoes were very troublesome. Indeed,
from this time we were scarcely ever without them at night,
and they annoyed us more or less according to the
state of the wind and the quantity of rain which
had fallen during the day. The inconvenience occasioned by these
insects is inconceivable until it has been experienced. The next
(10:31):
day we advanced to the village of Saint Lucia and
rested at noon there in an unfinished cottage. Soon after
we had unloaded our horses, and I had lain myself
down in my hammock, intending to sleep. The guide told
me that a number of people appeared to be assembling
near to us, and that I ought to recollect the
(10:51):
quarrel which we had had here and going. I got
up and asked for my trunk, opened it with as
little apparent design as possible, turned over several things in it,
and taking out the red bag, placed it upon a
large log of timber near to me, And then I
continued to search in the trunk, as if for something
I could not immediately find. When I looked up again,
(11:15):
in a few minutes, all the persons who had assembled
were gone. Either the important consequences attending this bag were known.
That of having the power of making a requisition of horses,
or some other idea of my situation in life was
given by the side of this magical bag. The river
near Saint Lucia had not yet filled. We proceeded in
(11:38):
the afternoon and reached the banks of the river Panema,
a narrow but now a rapid stream. One of the
men went in to try if it was fortable, but
before he was half way cross he found that it
would be impossible to pass, as the rapidity in depth
would effectually prevent any attempt to carry the packages over
(12:00):
the heads of the Indians. I desired the people to
remain where they were, whilst I turned back with a
Guayana guide to look for some habitation, because, owing to
the commencement of the reins, sleeping in the open air
would have been highly imprudent. We made for a house
which was situated among the Knauba trees at some distance
(12:21):
from the road, and as the owner of it said
that he could accommodate us and that there was abundance
of grass for our horses, the guide returned to bring
the party to this place, which was called Saint Anna.
In the course of the night, I had an attack
of agu, which would have delayed me at Saint Anna,
even if the height of the waters had not prevented
(12:42):
me from proceeding. However, I became more unwell, and perhaps
I imagined myself to be worse than I really was.
But I began to wish to arrive at Assou, as
by so doing I should be advancing upon my journey,
and at the same time, I should obtain the advantage
of being near to some priest, to whom I could
impart any message which I might have to send to
(13:04):
my friends. Although I was not in immediate danger, I
was aware of the sudden changes to which aguish disorders
are liable. As soon as the waters began to subside,
I determined to remove, But as I could not mount
on horseback, would be necessary that I should be carried
in a hammock. However, the difficulty consisted in procuring a
(13:27):
sufficient number of men. By waiting another day, six persons
were obtained from the cottages in the vicinity, some of
which were distant more than a league. On the fifth
day from that of my arrival here we set off,
crossed the river, which was barely fordable, and entered upon
the flooded lands. The waters covered the whole face of
(13:49):
the country, though they were now subsiding a little. The
depth was in part up to the waste, but was
in general less than knee deep. The men knew the
way from practice, but even the guide whom I hired
at Aussou could not have found it without the assistance
of those who carried me. At noon, the hammock with
me in. It was hung between two trees, resting the
(14:12):
two ends of the pole by which the men carried
it upon two forked branches, and hides were placed over
this pole to shave me from the sun. As the
trees had not recovered from the drought and were yet
with leaves, the men slung their hammocks. Also. The packages
were supported upon the branches of trees, and the horses
(14:33):
stood in the water and eat their maize out of
bags which were tied round their heads. The water was
shallow here, as this spot was rather higher than the
lands around, and in one place the ground was beginning
to make its appearance. At dusk we reached Shefatis, a
fazenda situated upon dry land, and here we put up
(14:54):
under an unfinished house. The horse upon which my trunk
and case of bottles had traveled had fallen down, and
to add to my discomfort, my clothes were completely wetted,
and even the red bag did not entirely escape. I
passed a wretched night from the agiu and from over fatigue.
The following morning I had some conversation with the owner
(15:16):
of the place, and purchased two of his horses At noon,
I sent off the camboyo under the care of Feliciano,
who was desired to reach Piazto the following night. I
remained with a Guyana guide and Julio, who had been
promoted to John's place of groom. With considerable difficulty, the
packages were carried across the river which runs just below
(15:40):
the estate. The stream was rapid and the stony bed
in which it runs increased the difficulty. When I passed
on the morning following, the depth and rapidity of the
current were considerably diminished, for no rain had fallen during
the night. I mounted the two persons who accompanied me
upon the two horses which had been purchased the day before,
(16:03):
and I rode a lead horse, which was quite fresh,
resolving to arrive at Piato, distant ten leagues in one day.
This I accomplished, resting only a short time at noon.
I was very unfit for so much exertion, but the
necessity of the case did not allow me any alternative.
But I was determined to ride until absolute exhaustion forced
(16:26):
me to give way. We overtook my people, and all
of us rested at the same place. Feliciano shot an
antelope upon which we dined. It was seldom, if ever
absolutely necessary to depend upon our guns for subsistence, though
the provision thus obtained was by no means unacceptable. As
(16:47):
it varied our diet, we could generally either purchase a
considerable supply of dried meat, or, as occasionally occurred, was
afforded us gratuitously. She were sometimes to be bought, and
at others fowls might be obtained on inquiring at the cottages.
But although numbers of the latter were to be seen
(17:08):
about the huts and high price offered, still the owners
frequently refused to part with them. The women, naturally enough,
had the management of this department of household arrangement, and
after much bargaining, the housewife would often at last declare
that all of them were such favorites that she and
her children could not resolve to have any of them killed.
(17:29):
This behavior became so frequent that at last, when either
the guide or myself rode up to a cottage to
purchase a fowl, it was quite decisive with us If
the husband called to his wife saying that she would
settle the matter unless we had time to spare for talking.
We generally went our way. My friend the Commandant was
(17:50):
still residing at Piato. I felt as if I was
returning home. My spirits were low, and any trifle relieved them.
This night I was still very unwell. Thirst was great,
and nothing satisfied and allated so much as watermelons, of
which there was here a superabundance. I ate several of them.
The Guide said I should kill myself, but I thought otherwise,
(18:12):
for I liked the fruit. In the morning, I woke
up quite a changed person, and the agu returned no more.
The guide often said afterwards that he never had known
until the present occasion that watermelons might be taken as
a cure for the agu. He was quite certain that
they had performed the cure, and that they would have
the same effect upon all persons in the same disease.
(18:35):
Such are the changes to which this strange complaint is subject,
often thus suddenly leaving the patient, but as frequently or
more so, ending in fever and delirium. However, it seldom
proves fatal. On the morrow we left Piato with the
addition to our party of a small tame sheep and
a tame tatubola or armadillo, both having been given to
(18:58):
me by the commandant. The former kept pace with the
horses for many days, and it never gave us any
trouble until the long continuance of the journey wearied it out,
and then I was obliged to make room for it
one of the panniers. In this manner, it traveled for
a day or two at a time. The armadillo was
conveyed in a small bag, and only on one occasion
(19:21):
gave us any trouble. When we released it at our
resting places, it usually remained among the packages, either feeding
or rolled up. It was with some difficulty that Mimosa
was prevented from annoying it, but latterly she and the
armadillo were very good friends. At Asoux, I changed one
of my horses for another that was in better condition,
(19:43):
and gave about the value of a guinea to boot.
Our friends, the sattler and the owner of the house
which we had inhabited in going, received us very cordially
and offered to assist us in crossing the river, which
was full, but they advised me to wait for a
decrease at the dea than rapidity of the stream. However,
I was anxious to advance. My people made no objection. Here.
(20:07):
I discharged the young man whom I had taken from
hence as a guide to Arakachi. We crossed the smaller
branch of the river, with water reaching to the flaps
of the saddles. When we arrived at the second and
principal branch, it was discovered that a jangada would be
necessary to convey the baggage across. Several of the inhabitants
(20:27):
of the place had followed us, judging that this would
be the case, and they were willing to be of
service to us and expectation of being compensated for their trouble.
A few logs of timber were soon procured. Some of
them had been brought down by the stream and were
now upon the banks, and others were conveyed from the town.
(20:48):
The cords with which the packages were fastened to the
pack settles were made use of to tie the logs
together for the purpose of forming the raft. The father
of the young man who had been with me to
Arikachi accompanied us to the river side to assist, and
had brought me Mosso with him. I requested him to
secure her, otherwise I thought she would follow me. He
(21:12):
did so, and sent her back to the town by
a boy. When the raft was prepared, the saddles and
all the packages were placed upon it, and I sat
down among them. Four men laid hold of each side
of the raft and shoved off from the shore, and
when they lost their footing, each man kept hold of
the raft with one hand, swimming with the other. But
(21:34):
notwithstanding their exertions, the stream carried us down about fifty
yards before we reached the other side, which, however, was
gained in safety. The Indians were already there with their horses.
The river of Asou is from two to three hundred
yards in breath. It was now deep and dangerous, and
from the violence of the current. A guide is requisite
(21:56):
that advantage may be taken of the shallowest parts. These
Certanasios have a curious contrivance for crossing rivers, which is
formed of three pieces of wood, and upon this they
paddled themselves to the opposite side. I heard it often
spoken of by the name of Cavalecchi, but as I
did not see any of them, I cannot pretend to
(22:17):
give an exact description. Footnote. There is a print in
Bartlaus which represents the Portuguese crossing the River Saint Francisco
upon rafts or logs of timber. These must, I think
have been similar to those which are at present used
in the certon end footnote. The men soon left us
(22:40):
to arrange the loads, which we were doing with all
possible expedition, when, on turning around I saw Mimosa running
up to me, half crouched and half afraid. I'd often
wish to purchase this animal, but nothing would induce her
master to part with her. He said that he had
had her from a whelp, and added that if he
put the pot upon the fire, and then when out
(23:02):
with her, he was sure to return by the time
it boiled, bringing something with which to fill it. He
did not mean that this was literally the case, but
thus quaintly he wished to impress the idea of her
great expertness in hunting. She followed us as she found
that she was well received. We advanced and halted at
Saint Ursula, a fazenda distant from Assou one league and
(23:26):
a half, and here we slept. The roads lay through
woods which were thick and close. From hence to the
Sierra merin the country was new to me as I
deviated from the road by which I had arrived at Assiou.
On my way northwards, I now took the shortest road
to Natal, but had frequently to cross this winding river.
(23:49):
Whilst I was at dinner, Mimosa was near to me,
watching for her share, when suddenly she crept under the
bench upon which I sat. I soon saw what had
caused this movement, for the old man, the father of
her owner, was coming towards us. He said that he
came for his son's dog. I persuaded him to sell her,
(24:09):
and when he was going his way, Mimosa ran out
from under the bench and fawned upon him. I told
him to go on and invite her to follow him,
But upon this she immediately returned, growling to our old
station under the bench. She had been better treated and
better fed with me than when she was with her master.
I always fed her myself, and had several times prevented
(24:30):
him from beating her. The next day we passed through
the fazendas of Passaga me Baja. The road was over
loose stony ground, and we crossed one dry marsh. In
the afternoon, we traveled from Saint Bento to angquos, which
obliged us to pass over some higher ground, which was
(24:52):
very stony and painful to our horses. We crossed a
small shallow stream several times. Our next day, is March,
carried us across more stony ground. The persons to whom
we spoke said that there had been no rain. Indeed
this was evident. There was no grass, and the country
was yet parched and dreary. The horses had no water
(25:14):
at noon, for the well was small, and the spring
which supplied it was insufficient for so great a number
of beasts. I was thirsty in the afternoon, and therefore
left the Comboyu to follow at its usual pace, and
rode on, accompanied by Julio. The two dogs likewise would
come with us. We entered upon a plan, and now,
(25:35):
for the second time I saw in Emma a species
of ostrich Notwithstanding my attempts to prevent them, the dogs
set off after it, and much against my inclination, I
was obliged to wait until their return. The bird ran
from them with great velocity, flapping its wings, but never
leaving the ground. The amos outstripped the fleetest horses. The
(25:58):
color of the one which we saw was a dark gray.
Its height, including the neck, which was very long, was
about that of a man on horseback, and it had
that appearance at first sight when at some distance. These
certinacious say that when pursued, the emma spurs itself to
run the faster, that the spurs or pointed bones are
(26:18):
placed in the inside of the wings, and that as
these are flapped, the bones strike the sides and wound them.
I've heard many people say that when an emma is
caught after a hard chase, the sides are found to
be bloody. It is possible that this effect may be
produced by some costs similar to that which a pig
cuts its own throat and swimming. The eggs of the
(26:41):
amma are large, and all the food which they afford
is coarse. It is not unpalatable. The feathers are much esteemed.
When the dogs return, we continued our journey. The road
led us between high rocks, and after proceeding along it
for some time, the dog suddenly struck from the path
and went up the side of a flat rock, which
(27:03):
sloped down towards the road, but was sufficiently low to
allow of a horse as sending it. Our horses stopped
and snuffed up the air. Julio cried out at the
same time water and spurred his horse to follow the dogs,
and I did the same. Julio was quite correct in
what he had supposed. From the direction which the dogs
(27:24):
immediately took, and from the stopping of the horse, there
was along and narrow but deep cleft in the rock,
which was nearly full of water, clear and cold. The
sides of the cleft slanted inwards, and the water was
below the surface, so that the dogs were running round
and howling without being able to reach it. The horses, too,
as soon as we dismounted, and they saw the water,
(27:47):
began to paw and attempt to press forwards to drink.
We brought no vessel with which to take up any water,
and were under the necessity of using our hats to
satisfy the horses and dogs. The rest of the party
came up after some time. Feliciano was acquainted with the spot,
but if the dogs and horses had not pointed out
(28:09):
to Julio, he and I should have missed it. We
were delayed considerably in giving water enough to all the horses,
as we had no large vessel in which to take
it up. I heard from Feliciano, and subsequently from other persons,
that these clefts in the rock are common, and that
they are known to few, and those principally of his
(28:30):
rank and occupation and life, and that this knowledge enabled
them to find plenty of water when others were in
great distress. He said, we never refused to give information,
but we say as little about it as possible. I
traveled until ten o'clock at night, wishing to reach some fazenda,
not to remain in the open air, as there were
(28:52):
several heavy clouds flying about, from the look of which
we well knew that if the wind abated, rain would
come on. Reached a fazenda and applied for a night's lodging,
which was granted, but upon a survey of the interior
of the house, I preferred the open air, with all
its disadvantages. The place was full of persons who had
(29:13):
assembled from the neighboring estates in expectation of rain, as
they had come to assist in collecting cattle. The fellows
were eating dried meat and had by some means obtained
a quantity of rum. I took up my station at
a distance from the house and we scarcely laid down
during the night from fear of the rain, and in
(29:33):
some measure that we might be prepared to prevent any
of our horses being stolen as a piece of sport
by the people in the house. The next day we
crossed over a plain which was partly without trees and
in part covered with brushwood. In going over this last
portion I pushed on with Julio, leaving the Camboyo to
(29:54):
follow us. We had nearly lost our way at the
division of several paths. Even Julio's knowledge was insufficient, and
had we not met some travelers and inquired of them,
I know not how far from the baggage we might
have been at night. On the following morning we advanced again,
took water and skins near to some cottages, and at
(30:16):
noon stationed ourselves in the bed of a rivulet, where
there was good grass but no water, as the bed
was lower than the neighboring land. The very first shower
had made the grass spring up, though there had not
been rained sufficient to excite vegetation upon its banks. Here
the armadillo straight into some brushwood. Feliciano followed it by
(30:38):
the marks of its footsteps over the grass and dried leaves,
and brought it back. I'm quite confident that he did
not see which way it went, and to a person
unused to tracing footsteps, there appeared to be none. If
it had passed over sand, there would not have been
anything extraordinary in discovering the way which the animal had taken.
(30:58):
But upon the grass and dry leaves, so small an
animal could make but a most trifling impression. I mention
at this place accidentally that the skins had spoiled the water,
for it tasted of the grease with which they had
been rubbed. Feliciano heard me, and took up a small
skin that lay empty, which was old and therefore not greasy,
(31:19):
and said, I'll try to find some for you that
is better, and away he went. In about an hour
he returned with a skin full of excellent water. He
had recollected a cleft in a rock at some distance,
and had gone to see if any yet remained in it.
We slept at a fazenda, and the next day proceeded
in the expectation of reaching the Sierra Mehrim, which we did.
(31:43):
This tract of country had not recovered from the drought
but the trees were beginning to be clothed, and the
grass under them was in most parts of sufficient length
to afford subsistence to our horses. Water was still scarce
and bad, but the rain had made it less brackish,
more plentiful. We passed over the Travacia with all possible haste,
(32:05):
as the floods were expected shortly, and sometimes the water
comes down, as I have before stated, with great rapidity.
There is some danger in being caught by the water
upon any of the peninsulas or islands which are formed
by its bends. For to be under necessity of crossing
over a stream which runs with much violence, perhaps ten
(32:26):
times or more successively, would be too much for almost
any horse to bear, and particularly for those which were
already fatigued by a long journey. We left the Sierra
Merim in four days, passed by Paolo, and early on
the fifth day arrived again at the Dry Lake. The
people of this place were upon the point of decamping,
(32:47):
as the rains were expected, or rather had already commenced.
We now met several parties of travelers who had taken
advantage of the first rains to pass over this tract
of country. And who were hastening before the floods came
down the river. January is not properly speaking, the urrainy season.
The rains at the commencement of the year are called
(33:09):
the primeras aguas or the first waters, and continue for
about a fortnight or three weeks, after which the weather
generally becomes again settled until May or June, and from
this time until the end of August. The rains are
usually pretty constant. From August or September until the opening
of the year, there is not usually any rain. The
(33:31):
dry weather can be depended upon with more certainty from
September until January than from February until May. Likewise, the
wet weather can be looked for with more certainty from
June until August than in January. There are very few
days during the whole course of the year of incessant rain.
What I have said regarding the seasons must however, be
(33:53):
taken with some latitude, as in all climates they are
subject to variation. The horse I left at the dry
Lake was faithfully delivered to me, and I continued my journey.
On the following day to Natal. The governor received me
with the same cordiality as before. I now left these Certans,
and though it treated me rather roughly, still I've always
(34:16):
wished I could have seen more of it. There is
a certain pleasure which I cannot describe in crossing new countries,
and that portion of territory over which I had traveled
was new to an Englishman. From the sensations which I experienced,
I can well imagine what those are which travelers in
unexplored countries must feel at every step, at every novelty
(34:39):
which comes under their view. There is yet much ground
upon the continent of South America to be traversed, and
I most heartily wished that it had been my fate
to be the civilized individual first doomed to cross from
Pernambuco to Lima. I have perhaps hardly said sufficient to
give a correct idea of the inhabitants of the fasendas
(35:00):
or cattle estates. Unlike the peones of the country and
the vicinity of the River Plata, the Certanasia has about
him his wife and family, and lives in comparative comfort.
The cottages are small and are built of mud, but
afford quite sufficient shelter in so fine a climate. They
are covered with tiles where these are to be had,
(35:23):
or as in more general, with the leaves of the carnauba.
Hammocks usually supply the place of beds and are by
far more comfortable, and these are more likewise used as chairs.
Most of the better sort of cottages contain a table,
but the usual practice is for the family to squat
down upon a mat in a circle, with the bowls,
(35:44):
dishes and gourds in the center, thus to eat their
meals upon the floor. Knives and forks are not much known,
and are not at all made use of by the
lower orders. It is the custom in every house, from
the highest to the lowest, as in former times, and
indeed the same practice prevails in all the parts of
the country which I visited. For a silver basin or
(36:08):
one of earthenware or aquia, and a fringe cambric towel
or one that is made of the coarse cotton cloth
of the country, to be handed round, that all those
who are going to sit down to eat may wash
their hands, and the same ceremony, or rather necessary piece
of cleanliness takes place again after the meal is finished.
(36:28):
Of the gourd's great use is made in domestic arrangements.
They are cut in two, and the pulpe is scooped out.
Then the rind is dried. And these rude vessels serve
almost every purpose of earthenware. Water is carried in them,
et cetera, and they are likewise used as measures. They
vary from six inches in circumference to about three feet,
(36:49):
and are usually rather of an oval shape. The gord,
when whole, is called gabasa, and the half of the
rind is called quia. It is a creeping plant, and
grows spontaneously in many parts, but in others. The people
planted among the mangia. The conversation of the certain Asias
usually turns upon the state of their cattle or of women,
(37:11):
and occasionally accounts of adventures which took place at Asifi
or some other town. The merits or demerits of the priest,
with whom they may happen to be acquainted, are likewise discussed,
and their irregular practices are made a subject of ridicule.
The dress of the men already has been described, but
when they are at home, a shirt and drawers alone remain.
(37:35):
The women have a more slovenly look, as their only
dress is a shift in a petticoat, no stockings and
oftentimes no shoes. But when they leave home, which is
very seldom, an addition is made of a large piece
of coarse white cloth, either of their own or of
European manufacture, and this is thrown over the head and shoulders.
(37:57):
A pair of shoes is likewise then put on. There
are good horsewomen, and the high Portuguese saddle serves the
purpose of a side saddle very completely. I never saw
any Brazilian woman riding, as is the case occasionally in Portugal.
In the manner that men do. Their employment consists in
household arrangements entirely for the men, even milk the cows
(38:19):
and goats. The women spin and work with a needle.
No females of free birth are ever seen employed in
any kind of labor in the open air, excepting in
that of occasionally fetching wood or water if the men
are not at home. The children generally run about naked
until a certain age, but this is often seen even
(38:40):
in a sifee to the age of six or seven,
boys are allowed to run about without any clothing. Formerly,
I mean before the commencement of a direct trade with England.
Both sex are dressed in a coarse cotton cloth which
is made in the country. The petticoats of this cloth
were sometimes tinged with a red dye eye, which was
(39:00):
obtained from the bark of the koipuna tree, a native
of their woods. And even now this dye is used
for tinging fishing nets, as it is said that those
which have undergone this process last the longer. In those times,
a dress of the common printed cotton of English or
of Portuguese manufacture costs from eight to twelve mil hays
(39:23):
from two to three guineas. Owing to the monopoly of
the trade, by which the merchants of Hayesifi put what
price they please upon their commodities. Other things were in proportion.
Owing to the enormous prices, European articles of dress could
of course only be possessed by the rich people. However,
(39:44):
since the opening of the ports to foreign trade, English
goods are finding their way all over the country, and
the hawkers are now a numerous body of men. The
women seldom appear, and when they are seen, do not
take any part in the conversation, unless it be some
one good wife who rules the roost. If they are
present at all. When the men are talking, they stand
(40:07):
or squat down upon the ground in the doorway leading
to the interior of the house, and merely listen. The
morals of the men are by no means strict, and
when this is the case, it must give an unfavorable
bias in some degree to those of the women. But
the certainatio is very jealous, and more murders are committed,
(40:28):
and more quarrels entered into on the score by tenfold
than on any other. These people are revengeful. An offense
is seldom pardon, and in default of law, of which
there is scarcely any each man takes it into his
own hands. This is, without any sort of doubt, a
dreadful state of society, and I do not by any
(40:50):
means pretend to speak in its justification. But if the
causes of most of the murders commit it, and beatings
given are inquired into, I have usually found that the
sufferer had only obtained what he deserved robbery, and the
certain is scarcely known. The land is, in favorable years
too plentiful to afford temptation, and in seasons of distress
(41:14):
for food, every man is for the most part equally
in want subsistence is to be obtained in an easier
manner than by stealing, in so abundant a country, and
where both parties are equally brave and resolute. But besides
these reasons, I think these Certinacios are a good race
of people. They are tractable and might easily be instructed,
(41:37):
excepting in religious matters, and these they are fast riveted.
And such was their idea of an Englishman and a heretic,
that it was on some occasions difficult to make them
believe that I, who with the figure of a human being,
was not of some nondescript race. They are extremely ignorant,
few of them possessing even the commonest rudiments of knowledge.
(42:00):
Their religion is confined to the observance of certain forms
and ceremonies, and to the frequent repetition of a few prayers,
faith and charms, relics, and other things of the same order.
These certainasos are courageous, generous, sincere, and hospitable. If a
favor is begged, they know not how to deny it.
(42:20):
But if you trade with them, either for cattle or
aught else, the character changes, and then they wish to
outwit you, conceiving success to be a piece of cleverness
of which they may boast. The following anecdote is characteristic.
A Certinasio came down from the interior with a large
drove of cattle which had been entrusted to him to sell.
(42:42):
He obtained a purchaser who was to pay him at
the close of two or three months. The Certinaso waited
to receive the money, as his home was far too
distant to return for this purpose before the expiration of
the term. The purchaser of the cattle found some means
of having him in prison. He went to him when
he was in confinement, and, pretending to be extremely sorry
(43:05):
for his misfortune, hinted that if he would allow him
to appropriate part of the debt to the purpose, he
would try to obtain his release. To this, the certainasio agreed,
and consequently soon obtained his freedom. He heard soon afterwards
how the whole of the business had been managed by
the purchaser of the cattle to avoid paying for what
(43:27):
he had bought, and he could not obtain any part
of the money. Having advised his employers and the certain
of these circumstances, he received for answer that the loss
of the money was of little consequence, but that he
must either assassinate the man who had injured him or
not return home, because he should himself suffer if the
(43:47):
insult remained unrevenged. These Certinajo immediately made preparations for returning.
He had always feigned great thankfulness towards his debtor for
obtaining his release, and a total ignorance of his unjustifiable conduct.
On the day of his departure, he rode to the
house of the man whom he had determined to destroy,
(44:09):
and dismounted whilst one of his two companions held his horse.
He saw the owner of the house, and as he
gave him the usual parting embrace, ran his long knife
into his side. He then quickly leapt onto his horse,
and the three persons rode off. None dared to molest them,
for they were well armed, and although this occurred in
(44:29):
a large town, they soon joined a considerable number of
their countrymen who waited for them in the outskirts, and
proceeded to their own country without any attempt being made
to apprehend them. These circumstances took place several years ago,
but the relatives of the man who was killed still
bear in mind his death, and a determination of revenging
(44:51):
it upon him who committed it, if he was again
to place himself within their reach. Many persons can vouch
for the truth of this story. End of Chapter eight,
Part one,
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