August 19, 2025 • 36 mins
Embark on an enlightening journey through Brazil in this captivating first-hand account by an Englishman exploring the vibrant coastal regions of the Northeast just before Brazils independence from Portugal. Kosters travels, which also lead him to the northern port city of Maranh√£o, reveal the rich cultural practices and everyday life of the Brazilian people through a refreshingly objective lens. More than a mere travelogue, this work serves as a compelling ethnographic study that immerses readers in the essence of Brazilian society. (Summary by KevinS)
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Speaker 1 (00:01):
Section eleven of Travels in Brazil, Volume one by Henry Coster.
The Sleepervox recording is in the public domain, Chapter eight,
Part two. The color of the certainatios varies from white,
of which there are necessarily few, to a dark brown,
the shades of which are almost as various as there
(00:22):
are persons. Two of exactly the same tint are scarcely
to be met, with children of the same parents. Rarely,
if ever, are of the same shade. Some difference is
almost always perceivable, and this is in many instances so
glaring as to lead at first to doubts of the authenticity.
(00:42):
But it is too general to be ought. But what
is right? The offspring of white and black persons leans
in most instances more to one color than to the other,
when perhaps a second child will take a contrary tinge footnote.
A Mulatto woman once said to me, the children of
Mulattos are like whelps. They are of all colors. Filio
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de mulatto e coomofilo de Keschoho whom cybranco, otro parto
etro negru and footnote. These remarks do not only hold
good in the Certan, but are applicable to all the
country which I had opportunity of seeing. The Certanasio, if
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color is set aside, is certainly handsome, and the women,
whilst young, have well shaped forms, in many of them
good features. Indeed, I've seen some of the white persons
who would be admired in any country. Their constant exposure
to the sun and its great power at a distance
from the sea darkens the complexion more than if the
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same person had resided upon the coast. But this gives
them a decided dark color, which has the appearance of durability,
and is much preferable to a sallow, sickly look, though
of a lighter The persons who reside upon and how
the care of the cattle estates are called vaciros, which
simply means cowherds. They have a share of the calves
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and foals that are reared upon the land, but of
the lambs, pigs, goats, etc. No account is given to
the owner, and from the quantity of cattle numbers are
reckoned very loosely. It is therefore a comfortable and lucrative place.
But the duties Atteenmiate are heavy, require considerable courage and
great bodily strength and activity. Some of the owners live
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upon their estates, but the major part of the estates
through which I passed were possessed by men of large
property who resided in the towns upon the coast, or
who were at the same time sugar planters. The interior
of pernambuco Hio, Grngi, Paraiba and Sierra contains, properly speaking,
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no wild cattle. Footnote. Doctor Manuel Ahula the Camera says
that before the dreadful drought of seventeen ninety three, it
was considered to be one of the duties of the
herdsmen to destroy the wild cattle, that that which was
already half tame might not be induced to mix with it,
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and he adds that this is still the case in
the Certoines of Puae. He published his pamphlets in eighteen
ten and footnote Twice every year the herdsmen from several
estates assemble for the purpose of collecting the cattle. The
cows are driven from all quarters into the area in
front of the house, and here, surrounded by several horsemen,
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are put into spacious pens. This being done, the men dismount,
and now their object is if any of the cows
are inclined to be unruly, which is often the case,
to noose them by the horns so as to secure them,
or another mode is adopted, which is by noosing one
of the hind legs in carrying the cord quite round
the animals so as to throw it down. The calves
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are then caught, and this is done without much difficulty.
They are marked on the right haunch with a red
hot iron, which is made of the shape that has
been fixed upon the owner as his peculiar mark. When
the oxen are to be collected for a market, the
service is more dangerous, and frequently the rider is under
the necessity of throwing the animal to the ground with
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his long pole, as I have in another place mentioned
on the man's approach, the ox runs off into the
nearest wood, and the man follows as closely as he
possibly can, that he may take advantage of the opening
of the branches which is made by the beast as
they shortly close again resuming their former situation. At times
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the ox passes under a low and thick branch of
a large tree, then the man likewise passes under the branch,
and that he may do this, he leans to the
right side so completely as to enable him to lay
hold of the girth of his saddle with his left hand,
and at the same time his left heel catches the
flap of the saddle. Thus, with a pole in his
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right hand, almost trailing upon the ground, he follows without
slackening his pace, and being clear of this obstacle, again
resumes his seat. If he can overtake the ox, he
runs his goad to its side, and if this is
dexteriously done, he throws it. Then he dismounts and ties
the animal's legs together, or places one fore leg over
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one of the horns, which secures it most effectually. Many
blows are received by these men, but it is seldom
that deaths are occasioned in crossing these Sierra merrim I
mention an instance of a cow having strayed to an
immense distance from its native pasture. This propensity to ramble
is common among horned cattle, even without its proceeding from
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the scarcity of grass or water. Often, at the time
of collecting the cattle, those persons who have been to
a considerable distance to assis to others drive back a
number of beasts with their own mark the estate to
which they belong, being distant twenty leagues or more. When
a traveler is in distress for water, he cannot do
better than to follow the first cattle path, as these
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usually lead to the nearest pool of water in a
direct line. The paths are easily distinguished, being very narrow,
and the wood uniting above, leaving open below only a
shady walk of the height of the animals which mate it.
Each lot of mares, with its master horse, is driven
into the pens. This consists of from fifteen to twenty
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in number. The foals are marked in the same manner
as the calves. It is worthy of remark, and the
circumstance was often repeated to me that the horse of
the lot drives from it not only the colts, but
the fillies also, as soon as they are full grown.
The fact was only qualified in two or three instances
when told to me by the person who related it,
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adding that if the horse did not do so, he
was taken from the lot and broken for the pack
saddle being considered of a bad breed. When a horse
is to be tamed for any purpose whatsoever, he is
noosed after being put into a pen, and is tied
to a stake on the following day, or perhaps the
same afternoon. If he appears at all tractable, a small
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low saddle is placed upon him, and a man then
mounts with a double halter. The animal runs off with him,
which the man, far from attempting to prevent, rather urges
him to do, though in general the whip and spur
are not made use of unless he is obstinate and
refuses to go forwards. Horses of good breeds are said
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to be those most easily tamed. The horse runs until
he becomes weary, and is then brought back quietly by
his rider, and perhaps they do not reach the rider's
home until the following day. The man must not dismount
until he is returned to the spot from once he started,
as he would probably experience great difficulty when he wished
again to proceed from the restiveness of the horse. The
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same operation is continued as long as the animal is
not supposed to be effectually broken in and safe to mount.
It happens on some occasions that by plunging, the horse
gets rid of both man and saddle and is not
again seen for a length of time. However, unless the
girths give way, he is little chance of throwing his rider.
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For the Certainasias are most excellent horsemen. The horses are small,
and some of them are fondly shaped. Though little attention
is paid to the improvement of the breed, great stress
is laid upon the color in the choice of these animals,
some colors being accounted more demonstrative of strength than others.
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Thus a cream colored horse with a tail and mane
of the same color is rejected for the pack saddle
or for any kind of severe labor, And if horses
of this description are sold for these purposes, the price
is lower them that of an animal of an equally
promising appearance in form and size of any other tinge.
They are much esteemed if well shaped as saddle horses
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for short distances, a cream colored horse with a black
tail and maine is reckoned strong. The horses that have
one fore leg white and the other of the color
of the body are supposed to be liable to stumble.
The usual colors are bay and gray and chestnut. Black
and cream color are less common. Those most esteemed for
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work are dark bays with black tails and manes, and
grays dot it with small bay spots. Stallions are broken
in both for the saddle and for carrying loads in
the neighborhood of the towns. But the Certinasias, both from
necessity and from their knowledge of their superior ability to
perform hard labor, make use of Geldin's. It is not
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always safe to ride a high spirited horse in the
cert town, because when he begins to neay, instances have
occurred of some master horse coming to give him battle,
and as both are equally desirous of fighting, the rider
may perhaps find himself under the necessity of placing himself
at a distance from the combatants. However, if he should
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chance to have a good stick in his hand and
can prevent his own horse from rearing as the wild
horse approaches, he may come off in safety. Sheep are
kept under every estate for their flesh when that of
a more esteemed kind fails. That is, either when the
oxen are in a meager state owing to a long
continuance of dry weather, or that the hertsman is too
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much occupied at home or too lazy to go out
and kill one. The mutton is never well tasted, and
though it is true that in the cer town no
care whatever is given in rearing or feeding the sheep.
Still I do not think this kind of meat is
to be brought to any great perfection. Footnote. When I
resided at Jagawaribe and upon the island of Itamarines in
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the years eighteen thirty in eighteen fourteen, I took some
pains in the matter, but the meat was not good.
Though all kinds of flesh in Brazil have less flavor
than those of the same species of animal in England,
Still I think that the mutton of Brazil is more
unequal to the mutton of England than is the case
respecting the beef of the two countries. And footnote. The
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lambs are covered with fine wool, and this continues until
they are one year and one half or two years old.
After this age it begins to drop and is replaced
by a species of hair. Although the wool should remain longer.
In some instances it appears to me that it was
coarse and short. Footnote. Lieutenant Colonel Juan da Silva Facial,
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in a pamphlet published at Hill de Janeiro in eighteen
eleven on the sheep of the Province of Sierra, says
that the sheep of that part of the country bear wool,
which has all the marks of being of a superior quality.
That it is in general soft, shining, well curled, of
a good length, and strong. He again says that the governor,
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the same of whom I have spoken, sent a small
quantity of it to England, which was much admired and esteemed.
I did not certainly remark particularly the sheep of Sierra,
and his opinion must of course be taken in preference
to mine, as this gentleman is the naturalist of the
same province. However, I bought several ast food, and their
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skins were invariably covered in the manner which I have described.
When I resided at Jagowaribe and Itamarasa, I possessed a
considerable number of sheep, and of these I can speak
positively and footnote. A wound upon the body of this
animal is more difficult to heal than upon that of
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any other, and the flesh of it is, of all others,
the most rapid in its advances to putrification. The division
of property in the Certan is very indeterminate, and this
may be imagined when I say that the common mode
of defining the size of a fazenda is by computing
it at so many leagues, or as in some cases,
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by so many hundreds of calves yearly, without any reference
to the quantity of land. Few persons take the trouble
of making themselves quainted with the exact extent of their
own property, and perhaps could not discover it if they
made the attempt. The climate is good. Indeed, the inland
flat country is much more healthy than that immediately bordering
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the coast. I can hardly name any disorders that appear
to be peculiar to it, but several are known. Agues
are not common, but they exist. Dropsy also, they are
acquainted with ulcers, and the legs are common, but less
so than upon the coast. Ruptures frequently occur, the smallpox footnote.
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Vaccination is finding its way among them, and of prejudice
eighteen fifteen and footnote makes dreadful ravages, and the measles
are much dreaded. When the venereal disease has once settled,
the sufferer seldom gets rid of it entirely. Application of
herbs are used, but as these people are unacquainted with
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or are unable to follow its proper mode of treatment,
some of the patients are crippled and the major part
of them never again enjoy good health. The ows also
are to be met with. But I had afterwards more
opportunities of seeing this complaint, and will therefore not now
give any account of it. Instances of a consumption occur.
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The Whoopinkov did not appear to be known in any
part of the country which I visited. I made many
inquiries respecting it, and could not obtain any information upon
the subject. I slept many times in the open air,
and never felt any bad effects from so doing. The
dew is trifling, and a high wind as usual in
the night. The sun is powerful, and is of course
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particularly felt in traveling over sandy loose soil, but it
did not seem to do any mischief. I never suffered
from headache, in excepting the attack of the agu, which
he is accounted for from the heavy rain which we experienced,
I never enjoyed better health. The food of the inhabitants
of the cer town consists chiefly of meat, of which
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they make three meals, and to this is added the
flower of the mangia, stirred up into a paste or rice,
sometimes supplies its place. The bean, which is commonly called
in England the French bean is a favorite food. It
is suffered to run to seed, and is only plucked
up when quite dry and hard. I have often been
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surprised to see how little service maize is to them
as food, but yet it is occasionally used. In default
of these the paste of the karnaupa is made, and
I have seen meat eaten with kurds of green vegetables.
They know nothing, and they laugh the idea of eating
any kind of salad. The wild fruits are numerous and
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to be obtained in any quantities, but few species are cultivated.
Among the latter are the watermelon and the plantain. The
cheese of the certam, which when it is fresh is excellent,
but after four or five weeks it becomes hard and tough.
Some few persons make butter by shaking the milk in
a common black bottle, but this must of course be
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experimental and not general. In the towns, even of the certam,
rancid irish butter is the only kind which is to
be obtained wherever the lands admit of it. These people
plant mangia, rice, et cetera. But much, I may say,
the greater part of the vegetable portion of their food
is brought either from more fertile districts near to the coast,
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or from the settlement still further back the valleys and
skirts of the Cadais, Sehetlatcha and other inland mountains. The
trade of the consists in receiving small quantities of European
manufactured goods footnote. This branch of the trade increases most
rapidly eighteen fifteen end footnote the cotton cloth of the country,
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of which they make some among themselves, a small portion
of European white earthenware, and considerable quantities of the dark
brown ware of the country, which is made for the
most part by the Indians who live in the districts
that contain the proper kind of clay, rum and small
casts butter, tobacco, snuff, sugar and treacle made up in cakes, spurs,
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bits for bridles, and other gear for their horses, excepting
the saddles, of which the greater part are made in
their own districts. Gold and silver ornaments also find a
market to a certain amount. The peddlers travel about from
village to village and from one estate to another, bartering
their commodities for cattle of all kinds, cheese, and hides
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of horned cattle. A colt from two to three years
sells for about one guinea. A horse broken in for
the pack saddle for two or three guineas, a horse
broken in for mounting from five to six guineas, a
bullock of two years ten shillings. A full grown ox
one guinea and a half. A cow varies much according
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to the quantity of milk, from one guinea to five
guineas a sheep from two to three shillings. A goat
for slaughter is worth even less, but a good milch
goat is valued at one guinea and sometimes higher. Children
are frequently suckled by goats, which increases the value of
these animals. The goat that has been so employed always
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obtains the name of comadre, the term which is made
use of between the mother and godmother of a child.
In so general is this that she goats are frequently
called gomadres without having had the honor of suckling a
young master or mistress. Dogs are sometimes valued at from
one to two guineas, and even if they are good
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sporting or good house and baggage dogs. A fowl is
as dear as a sheep or goat, and in one instance,
as has been related, I paid four times the money
for one of these birds that I had given for
a kid. The hawkers seldom obtain money in exchange for
their wares. They take whatever is offered and hire people
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to assist in conveying the cattle or produce to a
market where they are exchanged for goods, and then the
owner again returns. A twelvemonth is sometimes passed in turning
over the property once, but the profits are usually enormous
two or three hundred percent. During my stay at Natal,
the Governor showed me a species of wax which is
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produced from the leaves of the Carnauba, a tree I
frequently mentioned. A quantity of this wax was sent by
him to Heal de Janeiro. It is mentioned in one
of doctor Ahuda's publications, and a sample of it found
its way to England and has been taken notice of
by the Royal Society. The Governor, in one of his
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journeys through the province, passed the night, as often happened
in a peasant's cottage. A wax candle was lighted and
placed before him, which was rudely made, but afford a
good light. He was somewhat surprised at this, because oil
is generally used on making inquiry. He found that the
wax drop from the leaves which covered the cottage during
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the heat of the day. I suppose the cottage had
been newly built, for that a fresh covering of leaves
had been put onto it. He afterwards made the experiment himself,
tried some of the candles, and became confident of the
importance of the vegetable wax. The governor also gave me
a piece of iron ore, which was the produce of
the captaincy of hio Graji. He told me that he
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entertained little doubt of the existence of considerable quantities of
this metal in this part of the country, and that
the government would be well recompensed for their trouble if
proper persons were a pointed for the purpose of making
discoveries on this subject. I saw some cloth which he
had ordered to be woven from the thread of the karuata.
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Its texture was not unlike that of the coarse linen
which is used for sheeting. It is very strong. I
have some of the thread in my possession. As soon
as I had arranged that I should leave Natal in
the morning of the sixth of February. The governor told
me that he intended setting off on business relating to
his province. At the same time. We took leave of
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each other at night, and in the morning when I arose,
I found myself in possession of the house, as he
had set out at four o'clock. We did not get
away until about seven, owing to the number of horses,
loads and other matters which it was necessary to arrange.
I felt quite at home at Natal, although I was
yet distant from Asifi seventy leagues. But the country is
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well watered, well wooded, and comparatively well peopled. I passed
again through Saint the Indian village, but did not turn
off from the road toward Papari. I slept at a hamlet,
and in the morning proceeded to Kunyaou. About ten o'clock.
We were under the necessity of turning loose and leaving
behind one of the plains a horse which I had
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purchased at Chafarise, who was completely fagged and could not
proceed farther. The Colonel of Kunyaou was not at home,
but his steward wished me to make use of his
master's house. However, I merely mention having left a horse
at some distance upon the lands of the plantation, and
the guide drew for his government the mark which it
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had upon the haunch. I've often observed the quickness of
these people in recognizing a mark which they have once seen,
and the accuracy with which they will draw it after
having taken seepingly a casual glance, and perhaps after a
period of some weeks has elapsed since they had even
this footnote. In the year eighteen thirteen, I was one
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evening in company when I heard a gentleman request one
of the party to ask the Englishmen who were present
if any of them had ever left a horse upon
his plantation. I turned round and recognized the Colonel of Kunyaou.
The horse was sent to me about a month afterwards
and footnote. We then rode on half a league to
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the hamlet. The commandant of this place introduced himself to
me and was extremely civil. He put my horse into
a stable and wished me to stay until the following morning,
but I preferred advancing and slept the same night at
another hamlet two leagues beyond. This day, we passed several rivulets,
which were all much swollen, but none of them were
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sufficiently full to prevent the continuance of our journey. There
had already been some rain, and the face of the
country bore a more pleasing appearance. Two letter carriers passed
through the place in the evening, and I wrote by
them to a friend at Pernambucu that the cottage at
the kruz das Almas might be ready for me on
my arrival. The next day, we passed some sugar plantations,
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and over some hills. The country was most beautiful. Everything
looked green and healthy. I crossed a considerable rivulet at
the foot of a hill, and ascending on the opposite side,
put up at a single cottage which was inhabited by
white people, an old man, or Woodhower, with a fine
family of handsome sons and daughters. Their cottage had not
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room for all of us, and therefore we intended to
sleep in the open air altogether. But the old man
insisted upon my going to sleep in the house, and
I was not sorry for this, being rather afraid of
a return of the agu nearly at sunset or at
the close of the day, which in that country are.
Almost about the same time that the tame sheep was missing.
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Great search was made for it, but to no purpose.
The old man ordered two or three of his sons
to set out and not to return until every inquiry
had been made in the neighborhood. I did all in
my power to prevent giving this trouble, but he persisted, saying, no,
you are under my roof, and this unfortunate circumstance may
lead you to have an unfavorable opinion of me. Long
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after dark, the young men returned with the sheep and
a Malota man in custody. I wished the man to
be released, but they said that this could not be,
for he was a runaway slave who had committed many depredations,
and for whose apprehension a considerable reward was offered by
his master. They had followed the footsteps of the sheep
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upon a sandy path as long as the daylight lasted,
and then they had taken a direction which they thought
might lead to some mocambos, or huts of the wood
made by runaway slaves. After they proceeded a little way,
the bleating of the sheep was heard, upon which they
prepared themselves and came suddenly upon this fellow and a
woman who were in a hut. The woman escaped, which
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they regretted, as she was likewise most probably a runaway slave.
The man was taken into the house and was tied
fast upon a long bench with his face downwards, and
the cord was passed around his arms and legs. Several times.
This was done in the room which I was to
inhabit for the night. The whole of the family retired
to rest and left us together. I had my knife
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with me, but naturally soon fell asleep. In the morning,
the bench and the cords remained, but the man was gone.
He had crept through a small window at the opposite
end of the room. The young men of the house
were sadly vexed, but I told them it was their
own fault, for some of them should have kept watch,
as they could not suppose that I should remain awake.
Who had come in fatigued from traveling. We were now
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afraid that he might have taken one of our horses
for his more convenient escape, but this was not the case.
Our journey took us again through the village of Ma
Manguope and a little distance beyond it. I left the road,
accompanied by the guide, and went to the principal house
of a sugar plantation, where we asked for a knight's lodging.
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I was told that the master was not at home,
and great doubt seemed to be entertained of taking a sin.
Whilst we were talking at the door, a young man
of dark color came up, mounted a horse which was
standing there without a saddle, and rode off, seemingly avoiding
to observe that there were any strangers present. One of
the black women said, why did he not speak to him?
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For he is one of our young masters. I now
inquired and discovered that the owner of the place and
his family were Mulattos. This was the only instance of
incivility I met with, and the only occasion on which
a knight's lodging was denied to me during the whole
course of my stay in Brazil. We lodged this night
under a tree distant about one hundred yards from the ingenium,
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near to a neat and comfortable looking cottage of which
the owner was an elderly woman. She was civil to
us and expressed her sorrow at the treatment which we
had received there had been very little rain here, for
the grass in the field of the plantation had still
a parched look, and the cattle were in bad condition.
Toward the evening of the following day we reached a hamlet,
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and at one of the cottages I obtained permission to
pass the night. There was a penthouse standing out from
the front. These are usual, even for dwellings of wealthy persons.
Under it, I slung my hammock, but was surprised to
find that though the house was inhabited, still the door
was shut, and that the person within spoke to us
but did not open it. This I thought strange, and
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began to suppose that he might be afflicted with some
cotagious disorder and had been forsaken by his friends, or
rather that his family had been advised or remove to
some neighboring cottage. But the guide explained, saying that the
man had been bitten by a snake, and that the
bite of this species only became fatal if the man
who had received it saw any female animal, and particularly
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a woman for thirty the misfortune. As the lower orders
imagine that all snakes are poisonous, it is not surprising
that many remedies or charms should be quoted as efficacious.
It is well known that many of these reptiles are innoxious,
but as this is not believed by the people in general,
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it is naturally to be supposed that any cause, rather
than the true one, is assigned on a recovery from
a bite. On the morrow, we left these good people
in expectation of their friend's restoration to health and at
the allotted period, and proceeded to dine on the banks
of the river Parahiba, at a spot which was not
far distant from the plantation of Espiritu Santo, where we
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had slept on our way northward. The river was still
as dry as it had been during the drought. That is,
the pools or hollows in the bed of it had
water in them, but they did not contain a sufficient
quantity to overflow, unite and form a stream. We arrived
upon the banks of ten o'clock and heard from several
persons of a report which had been spread that the
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river was filling fast. At about twelve o'clock the water
made its appearance, and before we left it the river
was three feet deep. We afterwards heard that the stream
was not fordable at five o'clock of the same afternoon,
and that it continued to run with great rapidity for
some days. I went round to a spiritusanto and spoke
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to the capital more, and did not dismount, as I
was more and more anxious to and my journey. We
slept at a single cottage about two leagues beyond, and
on the following morning again set forth about noon, for
I had pushed on without resting until this hour. We
were descending a long and steep hill when a violent
shower of rain came on, which soon caused a torrent
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to run with much noise and velocity through the gullies
in the road. The clay of which the hill was
composed was rendered excessively slippery, and far from proceeding more quickly,
the horses became more cautious, and on these occasions it
is needless to attempt to urge them forwards faster than
they themselves are willing to go. They are aware of
(31:10):
the danger of a false step, and nothing that the
rider can do will make an old roadster alter his
usual manner of proceeding. At the foot of the hill
stood a venda or liquor shop, at which travelers were
in the habit of putting up. Most of the hamlets
contained one of these places, and we had met with
them much more frequently since we had entered upon the
(31:31):
great cattle Road. Wet as we were through and through,
it would have been impossible to go further that day. Therefore,
we were thankful for having a house so near. Indeed,
the rain continued during the greatest part of the afternoon.
We had descended into a narrow and beautiful valley, much
of which was covered with flourishing plantations of sugar cane,
(31:52):
looking very green and luxuriant. This was not the first
night that I had seen the beautiful luminous insect noctilucus,
which is called by the Portuguese casafogo. It is to
be met with chiefly in well wooded lands, and admits
at intervals a strong but short lived light. After leaving
(32:14):
this place the next morning, we discovered that we had
lost some trifles belonging to our baggage. I sent the
guide and another man back to seek for them, but
they returned unsuccessful. We had, it is true, seldom taken
up our lodgings in public houses, but perhaps if we
had done so, Oftener, I should have had more reason
to complain. However, as it is, this was the only
(32:37):
occasion upon which I lost any part of my baggage,
with a suspicion of theft attached to its disappearing. We
rested at midday near dous Kilos, and in the afternoon
passed through that place, arriving at Guayana about sunset. It
will be remembered that I purchased some of my horses
at Guayana. Now on my return two of the same
(32:59):
animals were still with me, and this alone proves that
they were of the best kind. When we were distant
from Guyana about one league, one of them made towards
a narrow path to the right of the road, and
was prevented by his driver from turning up into it.
But immediately after passing it he began to flag, and
in a few minutes I was under the necessity of
(33:21):
having him released from his load, and of desiring one
of the men to lead him, otherwise he would have
turned back. He had from this time the appearance of
being quite fatigued. I could only account for this circumstance
by supposing that the path led to his former master's residence,
and that the animal had proceeded thus far in expectation
(33:41):
of ending his journey here. I was received by my
friends at Guyana in their usual friendly manner, but I
found that the town was in a dreadful state from
the scarcity of provisions. One person was said to have
died of hunger, and I was told by an inhabitant
that several respectable ways women and had been at his
house to beg for Farinha, offering to pawn their gold
(34:04):
ornaments for it. On the morning of the fifteenth of February,
I left Guayana and assisted my people in crossing the river.
As soon as they were all safe on the Hassifi
side of it, I pushed on, accompanied by Julio and Feliciano,
all three of us being mounted upon our best horses.
We rested during the heat of the day at Iguadassu.
(34:28):
My horse recognized the place, for as he entered the
town he quickened his pace and, without being guided, went
up to the door of the inn form once he
refused to stir again until I dismounted. We arrived a
little after sunset at the Cruz Dasalmas. John was prepared
for me, but did not expect me for one or
two days. The following morning, I rode to Hassefi and
(34:52):
was received by my friends as one who had been
somewhat despaired of, and even my particular friend to whom
I had written did not expect me so soon. When
I returned home in the evening, the rest of the
party had arrived, and Feliciano and his two companions set
off two days afterward on their return to Siatra footnote.
(35:14):
In the year eighteen twelve, I met Feliciano and one
of the others, who was his brother in law, in
one of the streets of Hasifi. They recollected me, and
I was stopped by both of them, getting hold of
my coat on each side. They asked me if I
was going again to travel, For if I was, they
said that they were unemployed and would go with me.
(35:35):
Their attack had so much the appearance of being more
in violence than in the gladness of old friendship, that
one or two of my acquaintance who chanced to pass
at the time, stopped and inquired what was the matter,
Supposing that I'd got into some scrape. These fellows literally
held me fast until I had answered all their questions.
Their fidelity seems to militate from the general unfavorable character
(36:00):
which I have given of the Indians. But unfortunately individual
instances proved very little and footnote. Julio likewise left me,
with which I was much displeased. Footnote. I had imagined
that he did not intender a turn again into my service,
But on my second voyage to Pernambuco, I found him
(36:22):
at the house of one of my friends employed as
a household servant. And I heard that he had come
down to Hasifi two days after I left the place,
for the purpose of remaining with me. But as I
was gone, he had entered into the service in which
I found him. Julio was an exception to almost all
the bad qualities of the Indians, and if I was
(36:42):
again to travel in that country, I should use every
endeavor to have him in my company. He belonged to
Alhandra and footnote end of Chapter eight, Part two.
Section eleven of Travels in Brazil, Volume one by Henry Coster.
The Sleepervox recording is in the public domain, Chapter eight,
Part two. The color of the certainatios varies from white,
of which there are necessarily few, to a dark brown,
the shades of which are almost as various as there
(00:22):
are persons. Two of exactly the same tint are scarcely
to be met, with children of the same parents. Rarely,
if ever, are of the same shade. Some difference is
almost always perceivable, and this is in many instances so
glaring as to lead at first to doubts of the authenticity.
(00:42):
But it is too general to be ought. But what
is right? The offspring of white and black persons leans
in most instances more to one color than to the other,
when perhaps a second child will take a contrary tinge footnote.
A Mulatto woman once said to me, the children of
Mulattos are like whelps. They are of all colors. Filio
(01:06):
de mulatto e coomofilo de Keschoho whom cybranco, otro parto
etro negru and footnote. These remarks do not only hold
good in the Certan, but are applicable to all the
country which I had opportunity of seeing. The Certanasio, if
(01:26):
color is set aside, is certainly handsome, and the women,
whilst young, have well shaped forms, in many of them
good features. Indeed, I've seen some of the white persons
who would be admired in any country. Their constant exposure
to the sun and its great power at a distance
from the sea darkens the complexion more than if the
(01:47):
same person had resided upon the coast. But this gives
them a decided dark color, which has the appearance of durability,
and is much preferable to a sallow, sickly look, though
of a lighter The persons who reside upon and how
the care of the cattle estates are called vaciros, which
simply means cowherds. They have a share of the calves
(02:10):
and foals that are reared upon the land, but of
the lambs, pigs, goats, etc. No account is given to
the owner, and from the quantity of cattle numbers are
reckoned very loosely. It is therefore a comfortable and lucrative place.
But the duties Atteenmiate are heavy, require considerable courage and
great bodily strength and activity. Some of the owners live
(02:34):
upon their estates, but the major part of the estates
through which I passed were possessed by men of large
property who resided in the towns upon the coast, or
who were at the same time sugar planters. The interior
of pernambuco Hio, Grngi, Paraiba and Sierra contains, properly speaking,
(02:54):
no wild cattle. Footnote. Doctor Manuel Ahula the Camera says
that before the dreadful drought of seventeen ninety three, it
was considered to be one of the duties of the
herdsmen to destroy the wild cattle, that that which was
already half tame might not be induced to mix with it,
(03:16):
and he adds that this is still the case in
the Certoines of Puae. He published his pamphlets in eighteen
ten and footnote Twice every year the herdsmen from several
estates assemble for the purpose of collecting the cattle. The
cows are driven from all quarters into the area in
front of the house, and here, surrounded by several horsemen,
(03:40):
are put into spacious pens. This being done, the men dismount,
and now their object is if any of the cows
are inclined to be unruly, which is often the case,
to noose them by the horns so as to secure them,
or another mode is adopted, which is by noosing one
of the hind legs in carrying the cord quite round
the animals so as to throw it down. The calves
(04:02):
are then caught, and this is done without much difficulty.
They are marked on the right haunch with a red
hot iron, which is made of the shape that has
been fixed upon the owner as his peculiar mark. When
the oxen are to be collected for a market, the
service is more dangerous, and frequently the rider is under
the necessity of throwing the animal to the ground with
(04:23):
his long pole, as I have in another place mentioned
on the man's approach, the ox runs off into the
nearest wood, and the man follows as closely as he
possibly can, that he may take advantage of the opening
of the branches which is made by the beast as
they shortly close again resuming their former situation. At times
(04:45):
the ox passes under a low and thick branch of
a large tree, then the man likewise passes under the branch,
and that he may do this, he leans to the
right side so completely as to enable him to lay
hold of the girth of his saddle with his left hand,
and at the same time his left heel catches the
flap of the saddle. Thus, with a pole in his
(05:06):
right hand, almost trailing upon the ground, he follows without
slackening his pace, and being clear of this obstacle, again
resumes his seat. If he can overtake the ox, he
runs his goad to its side, and if this is
dexteriously done, he throws it. Then he dismounts and ties
the animal's legs together, or places one fore leg over
(05:28):
one of the horns, which secures it most effectually. Many
blows are received by these men, but it is seldom
that deaths are occasioned in crossing these Sierra merrim I
mention an instance of a cow having strayed to an
immense distance from its native pasture. This propensity to ramble
is common among horned cattle, even without its proceeding from
(05:51):
the scarcity of grass or water. Often, at the time
of collecting the cattle, those persons who have been to
a considerable distance to assis to others drive back a
number of beasts with their own mark the estate to
which they belong, being distant twenty leagues or more. When
a traveler is in distress for water, he cannot do
better than to follow the first cattle path, as these
(06:14):
usually lead to the nearest pool of water in a
direct line. The paths are easily distinguished, being very narrow,
and the wood uniting above, leaving open below only a
shady walk of the height of the animals which mate it.
Each lot of mares, with its master horse, is driven
into the pens. This consists of from fifteen to twenty
(06:35):
in number. The foals are marked in the same manner
as the calves. It is worthy of remark, and the
circumstance was often repeated to me that the horse of
the lot drives from it not only the colts, but
the fillies also, as soon as they are full grown.
The fact was only qualified in two or three instances
when told to me by the person who related it,
(06:58):
adding that if the horse did not do so, he
was taken from the lot and broken for the pack
saddle being considered of a bad breed. When a horse
is to be tamed for any purpose whatsoever, he is
noosed after being put into a pen, and is tied
to a stake on the following day, or perhaps the
same afternoon. If he appears at all tractable, a small
(07:21):
low saddle is placed upon him, and a man then
mounts with a double halter. The animal runs off with him,
which the man, far from attempting to prevent, rather urges
him to do, though in general the whip and spur
are not made use of unless he is obstinate and
refuses to go forwards. Horses of good breeds are said
(07:41):
to be those most easily tamed. The horse runs until
he becomes weary, and is then brought back quietly by
his rider, and perhaps they do not reach the rider's
home until the following day. The man must not dismount
until he is returned to the spot from once he started,
as he would probably experience great difficulty when he wished
again to proceed from the restiveness of the horse. The
(08:05):
same operation is continued as long as the animal is
not supposed to be effectually broken in and safe to mount.
It happens on some occasions that by plunging, the horse
gets rid of both man and saddle and is not
again seen for a length of time. However, unless the
girths give way, he is little chance of throwing his rider.
(08:26):
For the Certainasias are most excellent horsemen. The horses are small,
and some of them are fondly shaped. Though little attention
is paid to the improvement of the breed, great stress
is laid upon the color in the choice of these animals,
some colors being accounted more demonstrative of strength than others.
(08:47):
Thus a cream colored horse with a tail and mane
of the same color is rejected for the pack saddle
or for any kind of severe labor, And if horses
of this description are sold for these purposes, the price
is lower them that of an animal of an equally
promising appearance in form and size of any other tinge.
They are much esteemed if well shaped as saddle horses
(09:09):
for short distances, a cream colored horse with a black
tail and maine is reckoned strong. The horses that have
one fore leg white and the other of the color
of the body are supposed to be liable to stumble.
The usual colors are bay and gray and chestnut. Black
and cream color are less common. Those most esteemed for
(09:30):
work are dark bays with black tails and manes, and
grays dot it with small bay spots. Stallions are broken
in both for the saddle and for carrying loads in
the neighborhood of the towns. But the Certinasias, both from
necessity and from their knowledge of their superior ability to
perform hard labor, make use of Geldin's. It is not
(09:52):
always safe to ride a high spirited horse in the
cert town, because when he begins to neay, instances have
occurred of some master horse coming to give him battle,
and as both are equally desirous of fighting, the rider
may perhaps find himself under the necessity of placing himself
at a distance from the combatants. However, if he should
(10:13):
chance to have a good stick in his hand and
can prevent his own horse from rearing as the wild
horse approaches, he may come off in safety. Sheep are
kept under every estate for their flesh when that of
a more esteemed kind fails. That is, either when the
oxen are in a meager state owing to a long
continuance of dry weather, or that the hertsman is too
(10:35):
much occupied at home or too lazy to go out
and kill one. The mutton is never well tasted, and
though it is true that in the cer town no
care whatever is given in rearing or feeding the sheep.
Still I do not think this kind of meat is
to be brought to any great perfection. Footnote. When I
resided at Jagawaribe and upon the island of Itamarines in
(10:58):
the years eighteen thirty in eighteen fourteen, I took some
pains in the matter, but the meat was not good.
Though all kinds of flesh in Brazil have less flavor
than those of the same species of animal in England,
Still I think that the mutton of Brazil is more
unequal to the mutton of England than is the case
respecting the beef of the two countries. And footnote. The
(11:22):
lambs are covered with fine wool, and this continues until
they are one year and one half or two years old.
After this age it begins to drop and is replaced
by a species of hair. Although the wool should remain longer.
In some instances it appears to me that it was
coarse and short. Footnote. Lieutenant Colonel Juan da Silva Facial,
(11:45):
in a pamphlet published at Hill de Janeiro in eighteen
eleven on the sheep of the Province of Sierra, says
that the sheep of that part of the country bear wool,
which has all the marks of being of a superior quality.
That it is in general soft, shining, well curled, of
a good length, and strong. He again says that the governor,
(12:07):
the same of whom I have spoken, sent a small
quantity of it to England, which was much admired and esteemed.
I did not certainly remark particularly the sheep of Sierra,
and his opinion must of course be taken in preference
to mine, as this gentleman is the naturalist of the
same province. However, I bought several ast food, and their
(12:28):
skins were invariably covered in the manner which I have described.
When I resided at Jagowaribe and Itamarasa, I possessed a
considerable number of sheep, and of these I can speak
positively and footnote. A wound upon the body of this
animal is more difficult to heal than upon that of
(12:48):
any other, and the flesh of it is, of all others,
the most rapid in its advances to putrification. The division
of property in the Certan is very indeterminate, and this
may be imagined when I say that the common mode
of defining the size of a fazenda is by computing
it at so many leagues, or as in some cases,
(13:11):
by so many hundreds of calves yearly, without any reference
to the quantity of land. Few persons take the trouble
of making themselves quainted with the exact extent of their
own property, and perhaps could not discover it if they
made the attempt. The climate is good. Indeed, the inland
flat country is much more healthy than that immediately bordering
(13:33):
the coast. I can hardly name any disorders that appear
to be peculiar to it, but several are known. Agues
are not common, but they exist. Dropsy also, they are
acquainted with ulcers, and the legs are common, but less
so than upon the coast. Ruptures frequently occur, the smallpox footnote.
(13:57):
Vaccination is finding its way among them, and of prejudice
eighteen fifteen and footnote makes dreadful ravages, and the measles
are much dreaded. When the venereal disease has once settled,
the sufferer seldom gets rid of it entirely. Application of
herbs are used, but as these people are unacquainted with
(14:17):
or are unable to follow its proper mode of treatment,
some of the patients are crippled and the major part
of them never again enjoy good health. The ows also
are to be met with. But I had afterwards more
opportunities of seeing this complaint, and will therefore not now
give any account of it. Instances of a consumption occur.
(14:39):
The Whoopinkov did not appear to be known in any
part of the country which I visited. I made many
inquiries respecting it, and could not obtain any information upon
the subject. I slept many times in the open air,
and never felt any bad effects from so doing. The
dew is trifling, and a high wind as usual in
the night. The sun is powerful, and is of course
(15:02):
particularly felt in traveling over sandy loose soil, but it
did not seem to do any mischief. I never suffered
from headache, in excepting the attack of the agu, which
he is accounted for from the heavy rain which we experienced,
I never enjoyed better health. The food of the inhabitants
of the cer town consists chiefly of meat, of which
(15:24):
they make three meals, and to this is added the
flower of the mangia, stirred up into a paste or rice,
sometimes supplies its place. The bean, which is commonly called
in England the French bean is a favorite food. It
is suffered to run to seed, and is only plucked
up when quite dry and hard. I have often been
(15:44):
surprised to see how little service maize is to them
as food, but yet it is occasionally used. In default
of these the paste of the karnaupa is made, and
I have seen meat eaten with kurds of green vegetables.
They know nothing, and they laugh the idea of eating
any kind of salad. The wild fruits are numerous and
(16:05):
to be obtained in any quantities, but few species are cultivated.
Among the latter are the watermelon and the plantain. The
cheese of the certam, which when it is fresh is excellent,
but after four or five weeks it becomes hard and tough.
Some few persons make butter by shaking the milk in
a common black bottle, but this must of course be
(16:28):
experimental and not general. In the towns, even of the certam,
rancid irish butter is the only kind which is to
be obtained wherever the lands admit of it. These people
plant mangia, rice, et cetera. But much, I may say,
the greater part of the vegetable portion of their food
is brought either from more fertile districts near to the coast,
(16:49):
or from the settlement still further back the valleys and
skirts of the Cadais, Sehetlatcha and other inland mountains. The
trade of the consists in receiving small quantities of European
manufactured goods footnote. This branch of the trade increases most
rapidly eighteen fifteen end footnote the cotton cloth of the country,
(17:13):
of which they make some among themselves, a small portion
of European white earthenware, and considerable quantities of the dark
brown ware of the country, which is made for the
most part by the Indians who live in the districts
that contain the proper kind of clay, rum and small
casts butter, tobacco, snuff, sugar and treacle made up in cakes, spurs,
(17:36):
bits for bridles, and other gear for their horses, excepting
the saddles, of which the greater part are made in
their own districts. Gold and silver ornaments also find a
market to a certain amount. The peddlers travel about from
village to village and from one estate to another, bartering
their commodities for cattle of all kinds, cheese, and hides
(17:57):
of horned cattle. A colt from two to three years
sells for about one guinea. A horse broken in for
the pack saddle for two or three guineas, a horse
broken in for mounting from five to six guineas, a
bullock of two years ten shillings. A full grown ox
one guinea and a half. A cow varies much according
(18:18):
to the quantity of milk, from one guinea to five
guineas a sheep from two to three shillings. A goat
for slaughter is worth even less, but a good milch
goat is valued at one guinea and sometimes higher. Children
are frequently suckled by goats, which increases the value of
these animals. The goat that has been so employed always
(18:40):
obtains the name of comadre, the term which is made
use of between the mother and godmother of a child.
In so general is this that she goats are frequently
called gomadres without having had the honor of suckling a
young master or mistress. Dogs are sometimes valued at from
one to two guineas, and even if they are good
(19:01):
sporting or good house and baggage dogs. A fowl is
as dear as a sheep or goat, and in one instance,
as has been related, I paid four times the money
for one of these birds that I had given for
a kid. The hawkers seldom obtain money in exchange for
their wares. They take whatever is offered and hire people
(19:21):
to assist in conveying the cattle or produce to a
market where they are exchanged for goods, and then the
owner again returns. A twelvemonth is sometimes passed in turning
over the property once, but the profits are usually enormous
two or three hundred percent. During my stay at Natal,
the Governor showed me a species of wax which is
(19:43):
produced from the leaves of the Carnauba, a tree I
frequently mentioned. A quantity of this wax was sent by
him to Heal de Janeiro. It is mentioned in one
of doctor Ahuda's publications, and a sample of it found
its way to England and has been taken notice of
by the Royal Society. The Governor, in one of his
(20:04):
journeys through the province, passed the night, as often happened
in a peasant's cottage. A wax candle was lighted and
placed before him, which was rudely made, but afford a
good light. He was somewhat surprised at this, because oil
is generally used on making inquiry. He found that the
wax drop from the leaves which covered the cottage during
(20:25):
the heat of the day. I suppose the cottage had
been newly built, for that a fresh covering of leaves
had been put onto it. He afterwards made the experiment himself,
tried some of the candles, and became confident of the
importance of the vegetable wax. The governor also gave me
a piece of iron ore, which was the produce of
the captaincy of hio Graji. He told me that he
(20:48):
entertained little doubt of the existence of considerable quantities of
this metal in this part of the country, and that
the government would be well recompensed for their trouble if
proper persons were a pointed for the purpose of making
discoveries on this subject. I saw some cloth which he
had ordered to be woven from the thread of the karuata.
(21:10):
Its texture was not unlike that of the coarse linen
which is used for sheeting. It is very strong. I
have some of the thread in my possession. As soon
as I had arranged that I should leave Natal in
the morning of the sixth of February. The governor told
me that he intended setting off on business relating to
his province. At the same time. We took leave of
(21:31):
each other at night, and in the morning when I arose,
I found myself in possession of the house, as he
had set out at four o'clock. We did not get
away until about seven, owing to the number of horses,
loads and other matters which it was necessary to arrange.
I felt quite at home at Natal, although I was
yet distant from Asifi seventy leagues. But the country is
(21:54):
well watered, well wooded, and comparatively well peopled. I passed
again through Saint the Indian village, but did not turn
off from the road toward Papari. I slept at a hamlet,
and in the morning proceeded to Kunyaou. About ten o'clock.
We were under the necessity of turning loose and leaving
behind one of the plains a horse which I had
(22:16):
purchased at Chafarise, who was completely fagged and could not
proceed farther. The Colonel of Kunyaou was not at home,
but his steward wished me to make use of his
master's house. However, I merely mention having left a horse
at some distance upon the lands of the plantation, and
the guide drew for his government the mark which it
(22:37):
had upon the haunch. I've often observed the quickness of
these people in recognizing a mark which they have once seen,
and the accuracy with which they will draw it after
having taken seepingly a casual glance, and perhaps after a
period of some weeks has elapsed since they had even
this footnote. In the year eighteen thirteen, I was one
(22:59):
evening in company when I heard a gentleman request one
of the party to ask the Englishmen who were present
if any of them had ever left a horse upon
his plantation. I turned round and recognized the Colonel of Kunyaou.
The horse was sent to me about a month afterwards
and footnote. We then rode on half a league to
(23:20):
the hamlet. The commandant of this place introduced himself to
me and was extremely civil. He put my horse into
a stable and wished me to stay until the following morning,
but I preferred advancing and slept the same night at
another hamlet two leagues beyond. This day, we passed several rivulets,
which were all much swollen, but none of them were
(23:40):
sufficiently full to prevent the continuance of our journey. There
had already been some rain, and the face of the
country bore a more pleasing appearance. Two letter carriers passed
through the place in the evening, and I wrote by
them to a friend at Pernambucu that the cottage at
the kruz das Almas might be ready for me on
my arrival. The next day, we passed some sugar plantations,
(24:05):
and over some hills. The country was most beautiful. Everything
looked green and healthy. I crossed a considerable rivulet at
the foot of a hill, and ascending on the opposite side,
put up at a single cottage which was inhabited by
white people, an old man, or Woodhower, with a fine
family of handsome sons and daughters. Their cottage had not
(24:27):
room for all of us, and therefore we intended to
sleep in the open air altogether. But the old man
insisted upon my going to sleep in the house, and
I was not sorry for this, being rather afraid of
a return of the agu nearly at sunset or at
the close of the day, which in that country are.
Almost about the same time that the tame sheep was missing.
(24:49):
Great search was made for it, but to no purpose.
The old man ordered two or three of his sons
to set out and not to return until every inquiry
had been made in the neighborhood. I did all in
my power to prevent giving this trouble, but he persisted, saying, no,
you are under my roof, and this unfortunate circumstance may
lead you to have an unfavorable opinion of me. Long
(25:11):
after dark, the young men returned with the sheep and
a Malota man in custody. I wished the man to
be released, but they said that this could not be,
for he was a runaway slave who had committed many depredations,
and for whose apprehension a considerable reward was offered by
his master. They had followed the footsteps of the sheep
(25:32):
upon a sandy path as long as the daylight lasted,
and then they had taken a direction which they thought
might lead to some mocambos, or huts of the wood
made by runaway slaves. After they proceeded a little way,
the bleating of the sheep was heard, upon which they
prepared themselves and came suddenly upon this fellow and a
woman who were in a hut. The woman escaped, which
(25:55):
they regretted, as she was likewise most probably a runaway slave.
The man was taken into the house and was tied
fast upon a long bench with his face downwards, and
the cord was passed around his arms and legs. Several times.
This was done in the room which I was to
inhabit for the night. The whole of the family retired
to rest and left us together. I had my knife
(26:18):
with me, but naturally soon fell asleep. In the morning,
the bench and the cords remained, but the man was gone.
He had crept through a small window at the opposite
end of the room. The young men of the house
were sadly vexed, but I told them it was their
own fault, for some of them should have kept watch,
as they could not suppose that I should remain awake.
Who had come in fatigued from traveling. We were now
(26:42):
afraid that he might have taken one of our horses
for his more convenient escape, but this was not the case.
Our journey took us again through the village of Ma
Manguope and a little distance beyond it. I left the road,
accompanied by the guide, and went to the principal house
of a sugar plantation, where we asked for a knight's lodging.
(27:03):
I was told that the master was not at home,
and great doubt seemed to be entertained of taking a sin.
Whilst we were talking at the door, a young man
of dark color came up, mounted a horse which was
standing there without a saddle, and rode off, seemingly avoiding
to observe that there were any strangers present. One of
the black women said, why did he not speak to him?
(27:26):
For he is one of our young masters. I now
inquired and discovered that the owner of the place and
his family were Mulattos. This was the only instance of
incivility I met with, and the only occasion on which
a knight's lodging was denied to me during the whole
course of my stay in Brazil. We lodged this night
under a tree distant about one hundred yards from the ingenium,
(27:49):
near to a neat and comfortable looking cottage of which
the owner was an elderly woman. She was civil to
us and expressed her sorrow at the treatment which we
had received there had been very little rain here, for
the grass in the field of the plantation had still
a parched look, and the cattle were in bad condition.
Toward the evening of the following day we reached a hamlet,
(28:12):
and at one of the cottages I obtained permission to
pass the night. There was a penthouse standing out from
the front. These are usual, even for dwellings of wealthy persons.
Under it, I slung my hammock, but was surprised to
find that though the house was inhabited, still the door
was shut, and that the person within spoke to us
but did not open it. This I thought strange, and
(28:35):
began to suppose that he might be afflicted with some
cotagious disorder and had been forsaken by his friends, or
rather that his family had been advised or remove to
some neighboring cottage. But the guide explained, saying that the
man had been bitten by a snake, and that the
bite of this species only became fatal if the man
who had received it saw any female animal, and particularly
(28:58):
a woman for thirty the misfortune. As the lower orders
imagine that all snakes are poisonous, it is not surprising
that many remedies or charms should be quoted as efficacious.
It is well known that many of these reptiles are innoxious,
but as this is not believed by the people in general,
(29:18):
it is naturally to be supposed that any cause, rather
than the true one, is assigned on a recovery from
a bite. On the morrow, we left these good people
in expectation of their friend's restoration to health and at
the allotted period, and proceeded to dine on the banks
of the river Parahiba, at a spot which was not
far distant from the plantation of Espiritu Santo, where we
(29:42):
had slept on our way northward. The river was still
as dry as it had been during the drought. That is,
the pools or hollows in the bed of it had
water in them, but they did not contain a sufficient
quantity to overflow, unite and form a stream. We arrived
upon the banks of ten o'clock and heard from several
persons of a report which had been spread that the
(30:05):
river was filling fast. At about twelve o'clock the water
made its appearance, and before we left it the river
was three feet deep. We afterwards heard that the stream
was not fordable at five o'clock of the same afternoon,
and that it continued to run with great rapidity for
some days. I went round to a spiritusanto and spoke
(30:26):
to the capital more, and did not dismount, as I
was more and more anxious to and my journey. We
slept at a single cottage about two leagues beyond, and
on the following morning again set forth about noon, for
I had pushed on without resting until this hour. We
were descending a long and steep hill when a violent
shower of rain came on, which soon caused a torrent
(30:48):
to run with much noise and velocity through the gullies
in the road. The clay of which the hill was
composed was rendered excessively slippery, and far from proceeding more quickly,
the horses became more cautious, and on these occasions it
is needless to attempt to urge them forwards faster than
they themselves are willing to go. They are aware of
(31:10):
the danger of a false step, and nothing that the
rider can do will make an old roadster alter his
usual manner of proceeding. At the foot of the hill
stood a venda or liquor shop, at which travelers were
in the habit of putting up. Most of the hamlets
contained one of these places, and we had met with
them much more frequently since we had entered upon the
(31:31):
great cattle Road. Wet as we were through and through,
it would have been impossible to go further that day. Therefore,
we were thankful for having a house so near. Indeed,
the rain continued during the greatest part of the afternoon.
We had descended into a narrow and beautiful valley, much
of which was covered with flourishing plantations of sugar cane,
(31:52):
looking very green and luxuriant. This was not the first
night that I had seen the beautiful luminous insect noctilucus,
which is called by the Portuguese casafogo. It is to
be met with chiefly in well wooded lands, and admits
at intervals a strong but short lived light. After leaving
(32:14):
this place the next morning, we discovered that we had
lost some trifles belonging to our baggage. I sent the
guide and another man back to seek for them, but
they returned unsuccessful. We had, it is true, seldom taken
up our lodgings in public houses, but perhaps if we
had done so, Oftener, I should have had more reason
to complain. However, as it is, this was the only
(32:37):
occasion upon which I lost any part of my baggage,
with a suspicion of theft attached to its disappearing. We
rested at midday near dous Kilos, and in the afternoon
passed through that place, arriving at Guayana about sunset. It
will be remembered that I purchased some of my horses
at Guayana. Now on my return two of the same
(32:59):
animals were still with me, and this alone proves that
they were of the best kind. When we were distant
from Guyana about one league, one of them made towards
a narrow path to the right of the road, and
was prevented by his driver from turning up into it.
But immediately after passing it he began to flag, and
in a few minutes I was under the necessity of
(33:21):
having him released from his load, and of desiring one
of the men to lead him, otherwise he would have
turned back. He had from this time the appearance of
being quite fatigued. I could only account for this circumstance
by supposing that the path led to his former master's residence,
and that the animal had proceeded thus far in expectation
(33:41):
of ending his journey here. I was received by my
friends at Guyana in their usual friendly manner, but I
found that the town was in a dreadful state from
the scarcity of provisions. One person was said to have
died of hunger, and I was told by an inhabitant
that several respectable ways women and had been at his
house to beg for Farinha, offering to pawn their gold
(34:04):
ornaments for it. On the morning of the fifteenth of February,
I left Guayana and assisted my people in crossing the river.
As soon as they were all safe on the Hassifi
side of it, I pushed on, accompanied by Julio and Feliciano,
all three of us being mounted upon our best horses.
We rested during the heat of the day at Iguadassu.
(34:28):
My horse recognized the place, for as he entered the
town he quickened his pace and, without being guided, went
up to the door of the inn form once he
refused to stir again until I dismounted. We arrived a
little after sunset at the Cruz Dasalmas. John was prepared
for me, but did not expect me for one or
two days. The following morning, I rode to Hassefi and
(34:52):
was received by my friends as one who had been
somewhat despaired of, and even my particular friend to whom
I had written did not expect me so soon. When
I returned home in the evening, the rest of the
party had arrived, and Feliciano and his two companions set
off two days afterward on their return to Siatra footnote.
(35:14):
In the year eighteen twelve, I met Feliciano and one
of the others, who was his brother in law, in
one of the streets of Hasifi. They recollected me, and
I was stopped by both of them, getting hold of
my coat on each side. They asked me if I
was going again to travel, For if I was, they
said that they were unemployed and would go with me.
(35:35):
Their attack had so much the appearance of being more
in violence than in the gladness of old friendship, that
one or two of my acquaintance who chanced to pass
at the time, stopped and inquired what was the matter,
Supposing that I'd got into some scrape. These fellows literally
held me fast until I had answered all their questions.
Their fidelity seems to militate from the general unfavorable character
(36:00):
which I have given of the Indians. But unfortunately individual
instances proved very little and footnote. Julio likewise left me,
with which I was much displeased. Footnote. I had imagined
that he did not intender a turn again into my service,
But on my second voyage to Pernambuco, I found him
(36:22):
at the house of one of my friends employed as
a household servant. And I heard that he had come
down to Hasifi two days after I left the place,
for the purpose of remaining with me. But as I
was gone, he had entered into the service in which
I found him. Julio was an exception to almost all
the bad qualities of the Indians, and if I was
(36:42):
again to travel in that country, I should use every
endeavor to have him in my company. He belonged to
Alhandra and footnote end of Chapter eight, Part two.
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