August 19, 2025 • 26 mins
Embark on an enlightening journey through Brazil in this captivating first-hand account by an Englishman exploring the vibrant coastal regions of the Northeast just before Brazils independence from Portugal. Kosters travels, which also lead him to the northern port city of Maranh√£o, reveal the rich cultural practices and everyday life of the Brazilian people through a refreshingly objective lens. More than a mere travelogue, this work serves as a compelling ethnographic study that immerses readers in the essence of Brazilian society. (Summary by KevinS)
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Speaker 1 (00:01):
Section twelve of Travels in Brazil, volume won by Henry Coster.
The Sleeprovox recurting is in the public domain. Chapter nine,
Part one, Voyage from Pernambuco to Maregnam, Saint Louis, Trade
Wild Indians, the Governor Alcntera. The author sails from Saint
(00:24):
Louis and arrives in England. Eight days after my return
from Sierra, arrived a vessel from England bringing letters which
obliged me to leave Pernambuco and proceed to Maregnum. As
a cargo could not be obtained for the brig at
the former place, the consignee determined to send her to Maregnaum, and,
(00:46):
being myself desirous of taking advantage of the first opportunity,
I prepared for the voyage and sailed in the course
of forty eight hours. We weighed Anchor on the twenty
fifth of February and had a prosper passage of seven days.
We were inside of the land nearly the whole time,
and occasionally, as the brig was small and the master wished,
(01:08):
if possible to become acquainted with the points of land,
we were very near to it. The Portuguese ships seldom
come up this coast without a pilot, nor is it
prudent to do otherwise, But we could not obtain one
without delay, to which the Master objected. It had scarcely
ever before been out of the British seas. But their
school is good, and now he found his way to
(01:30):
Madam with as much dexterity as an experienced pilot. This
coast is generally known to be dangerous, and the land
has for the most part a dreary and dismal look,
particularly after passing Hiu Grangi, we entered the Bay of
Saint Marcos with a lead going took the channel to
the eastward of the Baishul Doomeu or Middle Bank, passed
(01:54):
the Fort of Saint Marcos, and came to an anchor
opposite and very near to the sand bank at the
mouth of the harbor of Saint Luis. As no pilot
came off to us, the Master myself got into the
boat intending to fetch one, but on coming opposite to
the fort of Saint Francisco, a gun without shot was fired,
(02:15):
and the sentinel beckoned us back to the ship. We
pulled for the fort, and when we approached it, an
enormous speaking trumpet was produced, and through it we received
orders not to proceed to the city. However, we landed
at the fort, and I told the officer that the
Master was particularly desirous of having a pilot, as he
(02:35):
was unacquainted with a bay or port, and it is
well known that they contained many sand banks. We were
answered that the pilot would come in due time. In
finding remonstrance of no avail, returned to the ship. When
the pilot arrived, he was accompanied by a soldier and
a custom house officer. It was with some difficulty that
(02:56):
I could persuade the Master to allow the former to
come into the vessel. Sailors and soldiers never very well agree,
and the blunt Englishman said he had no idea of
his ship being taken from him by a fellow in
a PARTI colored jacket. This was a new regulation. Indeed,
in most of those regarding the port of Modergnaum, I
(03:17):
could not avoid recollecting the old proverb of much cry
et cetera. As the brig came up the harbor, we
received the health and custom house visit, who was composed
of several well dressed men, some of whom wore cocked
hats and swords, and all of them ate much bread
and cheese, and drank quantities of porter. The Administrador of
(03:39):
the Customs was among them, and was dressed in the
uniform of a cowalry officer. I scarcely ever saw so
much astonishment pictured in a countenance of any man as
in that of the master of the brig He had
been accustomed to enter our own ports, where so much
business is done, in so quiet a manner, And he
now said to me, in half joke, half earnest, why
(04:01):
is not only one but they are coming in shoals
to take the ship from me? After all these personagests
and all the trouble they had given us, I was
still obliged to pass the night on board because the
guard Amour, the officer especially appointed to prevent smuggling, had
not made his visit. Fortunately I found means of having
(04:22):
the letters conveyed on shore, Otherwise the vessel would have
arrived four and twenty hours before the merchant to whom
she was consigned could have obtained any information regarding her.
To render the night still more disagreeable, some heavy rain fell,
the deck was leaky, and about midnight I was obliged
to rise and look for a dry corner. The city
(04:44):
of Saint louis situated upon the island of Moragnent and
the metropolis of the Estado or state of Moragnan, is
the residence of a captain general and the sea of
a bishop. It is built upon very unequal ground, commencing
from the water edge and extending to the distance of
about one mile and a half in the northeast direction.
(05:06):
The space which it covers ought to contain many more
inhabitants than is actually the case. But the city is
built in a straggling manor, and it comprises some broad
streets and squares. This gives it an airy appearance, which
is apparently pleasant in so warm a climate. Its situation
upon the western part of the island and upon one
(05:27):
side of a creek, almost excludes it from the sea breeze,
by which means the place is rendered less healthy than
if it was more exposed. The population may be computed
at about twelve thousand persons or more, including negroes, of
which the proportion is great, being much more considerable than
at Pernambuco. The streets are mostly paved, but are out
(05:50):
of repair. The houses are, many of them neat and pretty,
and of one story in height. The lower part of
them is appropriated to the servants to shine without windows,
to warehouses and other purposes. As at Pernambuco. The family
lives upon the upper story, and the windows of this
reach down to the floor and are ornamented with iron balconies.
(06:13):
The churches are numerous, and there are likewise Franciscan, Carmelite
and other convents. The places of worship are gaudily decorated
in the inside, but no plan of architecture is aimed
at in the formation of the buildings themselves, with the
exception of the convents, which preserve the regular features appertaining
to such edifices. The Governor's Palace stands upon rising ground
(06:38):
not far from the water side, with the front towards
the town. It is a long, uniform stone building of
one story in height. The principal entrance is wide, but
without a portico. The western end joins the town hall
in prison, which appear to be part of the same edifice,
and the oblong piece of ground in its front covered
(06:58):
with grass, gives it on the whole a handsome and
striking appearance. One end of this is open to the
harbor and to a ford in the hollow close to
the water. The other extremity is nearly closed by the cathedral.
One side is almost taken up with the palace and
other public buildings, and the opposite space is occupied by
(07:19):
dwelling houses and streets leading down into other parts of
the city. The ground upon which the whole place stands
is composed of a soft red stone, so that the
smaller streets leading from the town into the country, some
of which are not paved, are full of gullies through
which the water runs in the rainy season. These streets
are formed of houses consisting only of the ground floor
(07:42):
and having thatched roofs. The windows are without glass, and
the dwellings have a most mean and shabby appearance. The
city contains a custom house and treasury. The former is small,
but was quite large enough for the business of the
place until lately. The harbor is formed by a creek
in the island, and is to be entered from the
(08:02):
Bay of Saint Marcos. The channel is of sufficient depth
for common sized merchant ships, but it is very narrow
and not to be entered without a pilot. Opposite to
the town. The water is shallow at the ebb. It
is worthy of remark that the tide rises gradually more
and more along the coast of Brazil from south to north. Thus,
(08:23):
at Hio de Janeiro the rise is said to be trifling.
At Pernambuco it is from five to six feet, at
Itamarasa eight feet, and at Margno it is eighteen feet.
The forts of Maragno are all of them said to
be in bad order. I heard one person observe half
in earnest that he did not suppose each fort contained
(08:45):
more than four guns which were in a fit state
to be fired. I did not see that of Saint Marcos,
which is situated at the entrance of the bay, but
it is reported to be in the same state as
the others. Those I saw are small and built of stone.
The soldiers were well dressed and well fed, and they
looked respectable. The barracks are new and large, comparatively speaking,
(09:09):
and have been built in an airy situation in the
outskirts of the city. The garrison consists of one regiment
of regular infantry of about one thousand men when complete,
but these are much divided, being stationed in several forts.
Recruits are formed of the lower orders of white persons
and of the people of color. The men were never
(09:30):
exercised with the artillery and were merely accustomed to the
common routine of mounting guard, though a few detachments have
on some occasions been sent on to the main land
at the back of the island to assist the planters
against the wild Indians. The island of Marignan forms the
southeast side of the Bay of Saint Marcos. Consequently, this
(09:52):
bay is to the westward side of it. To the
eastward of the island is the Bay of Saint Jose.
From some similarity between the point of Ita Colomi, by
which vessels are in part guided when about to enter
the Bay of Saint Marcos, and another point of land
upon the small island of Saint Anna, which is at
the entrance of the Bay of Saint Jose, instances have
(10:15):
occurred of vessels mistaking the latter for the former in
entering the Bay of Saint Jose. This are causes great
danger and inconvenience, because, owing to the prevalence of easterly winds,
it is next to impossible for a vessel to beat
her way out of it. It is therefore necessary that
she should go through the narrow channel between the mainland
(10:37):
and the island of Maragnon, a passage of considerable difficulty. Footnote.
The information which is contained in this note I had
from Captain Juan Roman Trivino of the Spanish ship Saint
Jose of three hundred tons burdened. He received orders to
proceed from Hio de Janeiro to Maregnum for the purpose
(11:00):
of loading cotton. In the commencement of the year eighteen fifteen.
He arrived off the settlement of Sierra and sent on
shore for a pilot to take him to Saint Louis.
He was informed that none resided at Sierra, but that
he would find one at jericoa Guarrara, a high hill
between Sierra and Parnaiba. On arriving near to this place,
(11:24):
he discovered an Indian in a canoe fishing, who came
on board and offered to pilot him to Saint Luis.
This was agreed to and they proceeded, but from mistake
in the two points of land in the manner mentioned above,
the Indian took the vessel into the Bay of Saint Jose.
On the fifteenth of March. They kept the lead going
even before they discovered the error into which they had
(11:46):
been led, as is the custom with all vessels bound
to Saint Luis. The ship was brought to an anchor
off the village of Saint Jose, which is situated upon
the northeast point of the island of Marignan, in eleven fathoms.
Whilst they continued in the mid channel of the bay,
they found from eighteen to twenty fathoms. The depth of
(12:07):
water regularly decreases from the center of the bay towards
the land on each side, but it contains no insulate
at sand banks. The ship was at anchor off the
village of Saint Jose two days. They then proceeded through
the channel, which is enclosed on either side by mangroves
and is so narrow in some parts that the yards
at times brushed against the branches. The wind was fair
(12:31):
and they sailed through without being obliged to tow or
warp the ship. The depth of water varied from five
to two and a half fathoms. The bottom was of
mud about half way through the channel. The tide from
the Bay of Saint Jose and that from the Bay
of Saint Marcos meet. This takes place nearly, but not
quite opposite to the mouth of the river Ita Picouru.
(12:55):
They were two days in sailing from the anchorage ground
at Saint Jose to the island of Taoua, which is
situated near to the southwest corner of the island of Marignam.
Here the ship came to an anchor in nine fathoms
water with a sandy bottom. The captain sent to Saint
Louis for another pilot, as the man who had brought
them thus far was not acquainted with the remainder of
(13:18):
the navigation. The island of Taoa is rocky and uninhabited,
and is covered with palm trees. The village of Saint
Jose appeared to Captain Trevino to be of considerable size,
but with the exception of two or three the houses
were built of slight timber and of the leaves of
different species of palm trees. Its inhabitants were mostly fishermen.
(13:42):
He mentioned that he saw a shoemaker at work there.
Captain Trevino understood from his pilot that the river Itapicoru
is at its mouth one hundred and twenty yards wide,
and that its depth is one fathom and a half
end footnote. The Bay of Saint Marcos is spotted with
several beautiful islands, and is of sufficient extent to admit
(14:05):
of considerable grandeur. The width of Saint Luis to the
opposite shore is between four and five leagues. Its length
is much greater towards the south end. There are several
sand banks, and the water is shallower. It receives here
the waters of a river, along the banks of which
are situated several cattle estates. But the river Ita Bikaru,
(14:26):
which runs into the narrow channel between the mainland and
the island, enjoys the greatest share of cultivation. Its banks
are extremely fertile, and upon them have been established the
principal plantations of cotton and rice, which are the two
chief and almost only articles of commerce from the city
of Saint Luis. The island is in itself very little cultivated.
(14:48):
There is no considerable plantation upon it. A few of
the rich merchants residing in the city of country houses
distant from it about one league, but the remainder of
the lands are left untouched, owing as is said to
the unfitness of the soil for the purposes of agriculture
footnote Juau fourth sent over one Bartholomew Bajeiros de Ataide
(15:13):
with three miners, one of Venetia and the other two French,
to search for gold and silver. After two years search
up the Amazons, they returned to Marignan and offered to
supply the people with iron at a crusado about two
shillings four pence per quintal one hundred and twenty eight
pounds weight, if the state would engage to take all
(15:35):
that they should produce at that price. The people were
afraid to enter into any such contract. The island was
so rich in this orb that foreign cosmographers called it
the Elia do Ferio in their maps, and all who
came there with any knowledge of the subject said that
it was are the best quality, a thing of great
(15:55):
importance to Portugal, which brought all its iron. And yet
this discover was neglected from a memoir of Manuel Gaides
Ragna pro corrod'or from Mareignon sixteen eighty five in volume
six Pinero Collection of Manuscripts and the Possession of mister Southey.
(16:16):
A royal manufactory of iron has been established in the
Captaincy of Saint Paulo, called the Royal Fabric of su
Joan gi it Panema. Obtain a knowledge of the fact
from two letters in numbers forty five and fifty six
of the Investi Gadour Portuges, a periodical publication published in London.
(16:37):
I'm sorry to say that the two letters to which
I allude have arisen from some differences existing among the
directors of the fabric end footnote. There is a horse
path through the island to a house which stands immediately
opposite to the mouth of the river itapacoru At. This
is stationed at Canoe for the purpose of conveying people
from one shore to the other. Another horse path also
(17:00):
leads to the village and chapel of Saint Jose. The
importance of the province has increased very rapidly. Previous to
the last sixty years, no cotton was exported, and I
heard that when the first parcel was about to be shipped,
a petition was made by several of the inhabitants to
the Commedra or municipality, requesting that the exportation might not
(17:22):
be permitted, for otherwise they feared that there would be
a want of the article for a consumption of the country. This,
of course was not attended to who Now the number
of bags exported annually is between forty and fifty thousand,
averaging about one hundred and eighty pounds weight each footnote
I've just in time received the following statement of the
(17:44):
exportation of cotton from Mariagnaum from the year eighteen o
nine to eighteen fifteen eighteen o nine to Great Britain
in fifty one vessels fifty five tho eight hundred and
thirty five bags to other parts, twenty nine vessels twenty
one thousand six bags eighteen ten to Great Britain, in
(18:07):
thirty seven vessels forty thousand, six hundred and eighty four
bags to other parts, nineteen vessels eleven thousand, seven hundred
and ninety three bags eighteen eleven to Great Britain and
thirty six vessels forty eight thousand, seven hundred and five
bags to other parts. In nineteen vessels six thousand, fifty
(18:30):
three bags eighteen twelve to Great Britain, in twenty nine
vessels thirty five thousand, seven hundred and sixty seven bags
to other parts, twenty nine vessels four thousand, eight hundred
and three eighteen thirteen to Great Britain in thirty five vessels,
fifty thousand, seventy two bags to other parts in twenty
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seven vessels ten thousand, one hundred and one bags eighteen
fourteen to Great Britain and twenty two vessels thirty one thousand,
two hundred and five bags to other ports in thirty
four vessels fourteen thousand, four hundred and thirty six bags
eighteen fifteen to Great Britain, thirty two vessels twenty eight thousand,
(19:17):
five hundred and thirty nine bags to other parts in
forty nine vessels twenty two thousand, two hundred and sixteen
bags close footnote. The quantity of rice grown there is
likewise great footnote. A person of the name of Belfort
first planted rice at marium In. Some of his descendants
(19:40):
now reside there in opulence. Close footnote. But the sugar
which is required for the consumption of the province is
brought from the ports to the southward. Some sugarcane has
lately been planted, but hitherto molasses only have been made.
I heard many persons say that the lands are not
adapted to the growth of the sugar cane footnote. There
(20:03):
were five sugar works or engines as they are called
at Itapikuru, which compounded for five thousand ahobas of their produce.
On the island there were six engines in full employ
sixteen forty one. History of Brazil, Volume two, page nine,
end footnote. The cotton and rice are brought to Saint
(20:24):
Luis in barks of about twenty five or thirty tons burdened.
These come down the rivers with a stream from their plantations.
The return is not, however, so easy, as they are
obliged to be rowed or warped, but being then empty
or nearly so, the difficulty is not very great. Considerable
quantities of manufactured goods have been sent out from Great
(20:45):
Britain since the opening of the trade, as has been
done to the other principal ports upon the coast, but
already sail has not been found for them here to
any great amount. The province of Marignan will not bear
comparison with that of Pernambuk. It is still in an
infant state. There still exist wild Indians, and the plantations
(21:06):
upon the mainland are still in danger from their attacks.
The proportion of free persons is much smaller, the slaves
very much preponderate. But this class can, of necessity use
but little of what is in any degree expensive, or
what in such a climate as mere luxury. There exists
at Saint Luis a great inequality of ranks. The chief
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richest of the place are in the hands of a
few men, who possess landed property to a great extent,
numerous gangs of slaves, and are also merchants. The wealth
of these persons, and the characters of some of the
individuals who enjoy it, have raised them to great weight
in consequence. And indeed one governor knows to his cost
that without their concurrence it is useless to attempt the
(21:50):
introduction of the innovations proposed, and impossible to trample long
upon the rest of the community. But the great inequality
of rank bespeaks the advancement of this place to have
been less rapid than of other settlements further south, where
the society is more amalgamated and property more divided. As
a port of trade with Europe, Saint Luis may be
(22:12):
accounted the fourth establishment upon the coast of Brazil, and
point of importance giving precedence to Hilo de Janeiro, Vaiea
and Pernobuco. The wild Indians have occasionally crossed from the
mainland to the island and have committed depredations upon the
houses and gardens in the neighborhood of Saint Luis. Some
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of these people have been, at different times made prisoners
and brought to the town, where very little pains, I fear,
have been taken to conciliate them. I did not see
any of them, but they were represented to me as
most frightful beings. Their features are excessively ugly, and their
hair is black and preposterously long, both before and behind.
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They are of a dark copper color, darker than Indians
that have been domesticated. The last individuals taken to the
number of four or five, were brought into the town
quite naked, were put into close confinement, and I was
informed that there they died. I could not find out
that any attempt had been made to send them back
(23:14):
as mediators, or that any plan of conciliation had been
entered into, and on mentioning something of this kind, I was,
in more than one instance told that it would be
of no use, that rigor was the only method. I
do not think that this is the general opinion regarding them.
But I much apprehend that but faint hopes can be
(23:35):
entertained of any zeal being shown by their civilization. There
are now no enthusiastic missionaries, the Jesuits no longer exist
in that country, and the other orders of friars had
become lazy and worse than useless. However, the Indians cannot
be enslaved. Therefore at least they are not hunted down
like wild cattle, as formerly was the practice. The name
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which is given generally, both here and at Pernabuco to
all wild Indians is tapu Ya, and that of Kaboklo
is applied to those who have been domesticated. Having thus
given an outline of the place at which I had arrived,
I may now leave my quarters on board the brig
and be allowed to land, which I accomplished On the
morning subsequent to that of our entrance into the harbor,
(24:21):
I was received upon the key by my friend, a
young Portuguese with whom I had been intimate at England
and at Pernobuco. He told me it was necessary to
go to the palace for the purpose of presenting my
passport as the regulations of the port had for some
time been most strictly followed, and several indeed had been
lately added. I then, for the first time recollected that
(24:44):
I had no passport, having forgotten to obtain one, owing
to the haste with which I left Pernobuco. This produced
a demure, as my friend was afraid that I should
be imprisoned, the governor not being friendly to Englishmen. However,
I determined to call myself the super cargo of the brig.
We proceeded to the palace, the entrance to which was
(25:06):
guarded by two sentinels, and we passed several others in
going up the stairs into the ante chamber, where we
were received by a gentlemanlike officer, who heard what I
had to say, asked no questions, and soon dismissed us.
I thought I had seen the great Man himself, but
was undeceived, and heard that he seldom honored anyone with
(25:27):
an audience. The officer to whom we had spoken was
the lieutenant colonel the regiment of regular infantry the guard
at the palace consisted of one company. The muskets were
piled in front of the chief entrance and appeared to
be in good order, I soon discovered that Saint Luis
was ruled with most despotic sway. The people were afraid
(25:48):
of speaking, as no man knew how soon it might
be his fate to be arrested from some trifling expression
which he might allow to escape him. The governor was
so tenacious of the honors due to his state, that
he required every person who crossed the area in front
of the palace to remain uncovered until he had entirely
passed the whole building. Not that the Governor was himself
(26:10):
always in view, but the sadderation was thought necessary even
to the building within which he dwelt. The distinction until
then reserved by the Romish Church for its highest dignitaries, was, however,
not thought by his excellency too exalted for himself. The
bells of the cathedral rang every time he went out
(26:30):
in his carriage. Persons even of the first rank in
the place, were to stop, if in their carriages or
on horseback, when they met him, and were to allow
him to pass before they were again to move forwards.
And of Section twelve
Section twelve of Travels in Brazil, volume won by Henry Coster.
The Sleeprovox recurting is in the public domain. Chapter nine,
Part one, Voyage from Pernambuco to Maregnam, Saint Louis, Trade
Wild Indians, the Governor Alcntera. The author sails from Saint
(00:24):
Louis and arrives in England. Eight days after my return
from Sierra, arrived a vessel from England bringing letters which
obliged me to leave Pernambuco and proceed to Maregnum. As
a cargo could not be obtained for the brig at
the former place, the consignee determined to send her to Maregnaum, and,
(00:46):
being myself desirous of taking advantage of the first opportunity,
I prepared for the voyage and sailed in the course
of forty eight hours. We weighed Anchor on the twenty
fifth of February and had a prosper passage of seven days.
We were inside of the land nearly the whole time,
and occasionally, as the brig was small and the master wished,
(01:08):
if possible to become acquainted with the points of land,
we were very near to it. The Portuguese ships seldom
come up this coast without a pilot, nor is it
prudent to do otherwise, But we could not obtain one
without delay, to which the Master objected. It had scarcely
ever before been out of the British seas. But their
school is good, and now he found his way to
(01:30):
Madam with as much dexterity as an experienced pilot. This
coast is generally known to be dangerous, and the land
has for the most part a dreary and dismal look,
particularly after passing Hiu Grangi, we entered the Bay of
Saint Marcos with a lead going took the channel to
the eastward of the Baishul Doomeu or Middle Bank, passed
(01:54):
the Fort of Saint Marcos, and came to an anchor
opposite and very near to the sand bank at the
mouth of the harbor of Saint Luis. As no pilot
came off to us, the Master myself got into the
boat intending to fetch one, but on coming opposite to
the fort of Saint Francisco, a gun without shot was fired,
(02:15):
and the sentinel beckoned us back to the ship. We
pulled for the fort, and when we approached it, an
enormous speaking trumpet was produced, and through it we received
orders not to proceed to the city. However, we landed
at the fort, and I told the officer that the
Master was particularly desirous of having a pilot, as he
(02:35):
was unacquainted with a bay or port, and it is
well known that they contained many sand banks. We were
answered that the pilot would come in due time. In
finding remonstrance of no avail, returned to the ship. When
the pilot arrived, he was accompanied by a soldier and
a custom house officer. It was with some difficulty that
(02:56):
I could persuade the Master to allow the former to
come into the vessel. Sailors and soldiers never very well agree,
and the blunt Englishman said he had no idea of
his ship being taken from him by a fellow in
a PARTI colored jacket. This was a new regulation. Indeed,
in most of those regarding the port of Modergnaum, I
(03:17):
could not avoid recollecting the old proverb of much cry
et cetera. As the brig came up the harbor, we
received the health and custom house visit, who was composed
of several well dressed men, some of whom wore cocked
hats and swords, and all of them ate much bread
and cheese, and drank quantities of porter. The Administrador of
(03:39):
the Customs was among them, and was dressed in the
uniform of a cowalry officer. I scarcely ever saw so
much astonishment pictured in a countenance of any man as
in that of the master of the brig He had
been accustomed to enter our own ports, where so much
business is done, in so quiet a manner, And he
now said to me, in half joke, half earnest, why
(04:01):
is not only one but they are coming in shoals
to take the ship from me? After all these personagests
and all the trouble they had given us, I was
still obliged to pass the night on board because the
guard Amour, the officer especially appointed to prevent smuggling, had
not made his visit. Fortunately I found means of having
(04:22):
the letters conveyed on shore, Otherwise the vessel would have
arrived four and twenty hours before the merchant to whom
she was consigned could have obtained any information regarding her.
To render the night still more disagreeable, some heavy rain fell,
the deck was leaky, and about midnight I was obliged
to rise and look for a dry corner. The city
(04:44):
of Saint louis situated upon the island of Moragnent and
the metropolis of the Estado or state of Moragnan, is
the residence of a captain general and the sea of
a bishop. It is built upon very unequal ground, commencing
from the water edge and extending to the distance of
about one mile and a half in the northeast direction.
(05:06):
The space which it covers ought to contain many more
inhabitants than is actually the case. But the city is
built in a straggling manor, and it comprises some broad
streets and squares. This gives it an airy appearance, which
is apparently pleasant in so warm a climate. Its situation
upon the western part of the island and upon one
(05:27):
side of a creek, almost excludes it from the sea breeze,
by which means the place is rendered less healthy than
if it was more exposed. The population may be computed
at about twelve thousand persons or more, including negroes, of
which the proportion is great, being much more considerable than
at Pernambuco. The streets are mostly paved, but are out
(05:50):
of repair. The houses are, many of them neat and pretty,
and of one story in height. The lower part of
them is appropriated to the servants to shine without windows,
to warehouses and other purposes. As at Pernambuco. The family
lives upon the upper story, and the windows of this
reach down to the floor and are ornamented with iron balconies.
(06:13):
The churches are numerous, and there are likewise Franciscan, Carmelite
and other convents. The places of worship are gaudily decorated
in the inside, but no plan of architecture is aimed
at in the formation of the buildings themselves, with the
exception of the convents, which preserve the regular features appertaining
to such edifices. The Governor's Palace stands upon rising ground
(06:38):
not far from the water side, with the front towards
the town. It is a long, uniform stone building of
one story in height. The principal entrance is wide, but
without a portico. The western end joins the town hall
in prison, which appear to be part of the same edifice,
and the oblong piece of ground in its front covered
(06:58):
with grass, gives it on the whole a handsome and
striking appearance. One end of this is open to the
harbor and to a ford in the hollow close to
the water. The other extremity is nearly closed by the cathedral.
One side is almost taken up with the palace and
other public buildings, and the opposite space is occupied by
(07:19):
dwelling houses and streets leading down into other parts of
the city. The ground upon which the whole place stands
is composed of a soft red stone, so that the
smaller streets leading from the town into the country, some
of which are not paved, are full of gullies through
which the water runs in the rainy season. These streets
are formed of houses consisting only of the ground floor
(07:42):
and having thatched roofs. The windows are without glass, and
the dwellings have a most mean and shabby appearance. The
city contains a custom house and treasury. The former is small,
but was quite large enough for the business of the
place until lately. The harbor is formed by a creek
in the island, and is to be entered from the
(08:02):
Bay of Saint Marcos. The channel is of sufficient depth
for common sized merchant ships, but it is very narrow
and not to be entered without a pilot. Opposite to
the town. The water is shallow at the ebb. It
is worthy of remark that the tide rises gradually more
and more along the coast of Brazil from south to north. Thus,
(08:23):
at Hio de Janeiro the rise is said to be trifling.
At Pernambuco it is from five to six feet, at
Itamarasa eight feet, and at Margno it is eighteen feet.
The forts of Maragno are all of them said to
be in bad order. I heard one person observe half
in earnest that he did not suppose each fort contained
(08:45):
more than four guns which were in a fit state
to be fired. I did not see that of Saint Marcos,
which is situated at the entrance of the bay, but
it is reported to be in the same state as
the others. Those I saw are small and built of stone.
The soldiers were well dressed and well fed, and they
looked respectable. The barracks are new and large, comparatively speaking,
(09:09):
and have been built in an airy situation in the
outskirts of the city. The garrison consists of one regiment
of regular infantry of about one thousand men when complete,
but these are much divided, being stationed in several forts.
Recruits are formed of the lower orders of white persons
and of the people of color. The men were never
(09:30):
exercised with the artillery and were merely accustomed to the
common routine of mounting guard, though a few detachments have
on some occasions been sent on to the main land
at the back of the island to assist the planters
against the wild Indians. The island of Marignan forms the
southeast side of the Bay of Saint Marcos. Consequently, this
(09:52):
bay is to the westward side of it. To the
eastward of the island is the Bay of Saint Jose.
From some similarity between the point of Ita Colomi, by
which vessels are in part guided when about to enter
the Bay of Saint Marcos, and another point of land
upon the small island of Saint Anna, which is at
the entrance of the Bay of Saint Jose, instances have
(10:15):
occurred of vessels mistaking the latter for the former in
entering the Bay of Saint Jose. This are causes great
danger and inconvenience, because, owing to the prevalence of easterly winds,
it is next to impossible for a vessel to beat
her way out of it. It is therefore necessary that
she should go through the narrow channel between the mainland
(10:37):
and the island of Maragnon, a passage of considerable difficulty. Footnote.
The information which is contained in this note I had
from Captain Juan Roman Trivino of the Spanish ship Saint
Jose of three hundred tons burdened. He received orders to
proceed from Hio de Janeiro to Maregnum for the purpose
(11:00):
of loading cotton. In the commencement of the year eighteen fifteen.
He arrived off the settlement of Sierra and sent on
shore for a pilot to take him to Saint Louis.
He was informed that none resided at Sierra, but that
he would find one at jericoa Guarrara, a high hill
between Sierra and Parnaiba. On arriving near to this place,
(11:24):
he discovered an Indian in a canoe fishing, who came
on board and offered to pilot him to Saint Luis.
This was agreed to and they proceeded, but from mistake
in the two points of land in the manner mentioned above,
the Indian took the vessel into the Bay of Saint Jose.
On the fifteenth of March. They kept the lead going
even before they discovered the error into which they had
(11:46):
been led, as is the custom with all vessels bound
to Saint Luis. The ship was brought to an anchor
off the village of Saint Jose, which is situated upon
the northeast point of the island of Marignan, in eleven fathoms.
Whilst they continued in the mid channel of the bay,
they found from eighteen to twenty fathoms. The depth of
(12:07):
water regularly decreases from the center of the bay towards
the land on each side, but it contains no insulate
at sand banks. The ship was at anchor off the
village of Saint Jose two days. They then proceeded through
the channel, which is enclosed on either side by mangroves
and is so narrow in some parts that the yards
at times brushed against the branches. The wind was fair
(12:31):
and they sailed through without being obliged to tow or
warp the ship. The depth of water varied from five
to two and a half fathoms. The bottom was of
mud about half way through the channel. The tide from
the Bay of Saint Jose and that from the Bay
of Saint Marcos meet. This takes place nearly, but not
quite opposite to the mouth of the river Ita Picouru.
(12:55):
They were two days in sailing from the anchorage ground
at Saint Jose to the island of Taoua, which is
situated near to the southwest corner of the island of Marignam.
Here the ship came to an anchor in nine fathoms
water with a sandy bottom. The captain sent to Saint
Louis for another pilot, as the man who had brought
them thus far was not acquainted with the remainder of
(13:18):
the navigation. The island of Taoa is rocky and uninhabited,
and is covered with palm trees. The village of Saint
Jose appeared to Captain Trevino to be of considerable size,
but with the exception of two or three the houses
were built of slight timber and of the leaves of
different species of palm trees. Its inhabitants were mostly fishermen.
(13:42):
He mentioned that he saw a shoemaker at work there.
Captain Trevino understood from his pilot that the river Itapicoru
is at its mouth one hundred and twenty yards wide,
and that its depth is one fathom and a half
end footnote. The Bay of Saint Marcos is spotted with
several beautiful islands, and is of sufficient extent to admit
(14:05):
of considerable grandeur. The width of Saint Luis to the
opposite shore is between four and five leagues. Its length
is much greater towards the south end. There are several
sand banks, and the water is shallower. It receives here
the waters of a river, along the banks of which
are situated several cattle estates. But the river Ita Bikaru,
(14:26):
which runs into the narrow channel between the mainland and
the island, enjoys the greatest share of cultivation. Its banks
are extremely fertile, and upon them have been established the
principal plantations of cotton and rice, which are the two
chief and almost only articles of commerce from the city
of Saint Luis. The island is in itself very little cultivated.
(14:48):
There is no considerable plantation upon it. A few of
the rich merchants residing in the city of country houses
distant from it about one league, but the remainder of
the lands are left untouched, owing as is said to
the unfitness of the soil for the purposes of agriculture
footnote Juau fourth sent over one Bartholomew Bajeiros de Ataide
(15:13):
with three miners, one of Venetia and the other two French,
to search for gold and silver. After two years search
up the Amazons, they returned to Marignan and offered to
supply the people with iron at a crusado about two
shillings four pence per quintal one hundred and twenty eight
pounds weight, if the state would engage to take all
(15:35):
that they should produce at that price. The people were
afraid to enter into any such contract. The island was
so rich in this orb that foreign cosmographers called it
the Elia do Ferio in their maps, and all who
came there with any knowledge of the subject said that
it was are the best quality, a thing of great
(15:55):
importance to Portugal, which brought all its iron. And yet
this discover was neglected from a memoir of Manuel Gaides
Ragna pro corrod'or from Mareignon sixteen eighty five in volume
six Pinero Collection of Manuscripts and the Possession of mister Southey.
(16:16):
A royal manufactory of iron has been established in the
Captaincy of Saint Paulo, called the Royal Fabric of su
Joan gi it Panema. Obtain a knowledge of the fact
from two letters in numbers forty five and fifty six
of the Investi Gadour Portuges, a periodical publication published in London.
(16:37):
I'm sorry to say that the two letters to which
I allude have arisen from some differences existing among the
directors of the fabric end footnote. There is a horse
path through the island to a house which stands immediately
opposite to the mouth of the river itapacoru At. This
is stationed at Canoe for the purpose of conveying people
from one shore to the other. Another horse path also
(17:00):
leads to the village and chapel of Saint Jose. The
importance of the province has increased very rapidly. Previous to
the last sixty years, no cotton was exported, and I
heard that when the first parcel was about to be shipped,
a petition was made by several of the inhabitants to
the Commedra or municipality, requesting that the exportation might not
(17:22):
be permitted, for otherwise they feared that there would be
a want of the article for a consumption of the country. This,
of course was not attended to who Now the number
of bags exported annually is between forty and fifty thousand,
averaging about one hundred and eighty pounds weight each footnote
I've just in time received the following statement of the
(17:44):
exportation of cotton from Mariagnaum from the year eighteen o
nine to eighteen fifteen eighteen o nine to Great Britain
in fifty one vessels fifty five tho eight hundred and
thirty five bags to other parts, twenty nine vessels twenty
one thousand six bags eighteen ten to Great Britain, in
(18:07):
thirty seven vessels forty thousand, six hundred and eighty four
bags to other parts, nineteen vessels eleven thousand, seven hundred
and ninety three bags eighteen eleven to Great Britain and
thirty six vessels forty eight thousand, seven hundred and five
bags to other parts. In nineteen vessels six thousand, fifty
(18:30):
three bags eighteen twelve to Great Britain, in twenty nine
vessels thirty five thousand, seven hundred and sixty seven bags
to other parts, twenty nine vessels four thousand, eight hundred
and three eighteen thirteen to Great Britain in thirty five vessels,
fifty thousand, seventy two bags to other parts in twenty
(18:52):
seven vessels ten thousand, one hundred and one bags eighteen
fourteen to Great Britain and twenty two vessels thirty one thousand,
two hundred and five bags to other ports in thirty
four vessels fourteen thousand, four hundred and thirty six bags
eighteen fifteen to Great Britain, thirty two vessels twenty eight thousand,
(19:17):
five hundred and thirty nine bags to other parts in
forty nine vessels twenty two thousand, two hundred and sixteen
bags close footnote. The quantity of rice grown there is
likewise great footnote. A person of the name of Belfort
first planted rice at marium In. Some of his descendants
(19:40):
now reside there in opulence. Close footnote. But the sugar
which is required for the consumption of the province is
brought from the ports to the southward. Some sugarcane has
lately been planted, but hitherto molasses only have been made.
I heard many persons say that the lands are not
adapted to the growth of the sugar cane footnote. There
(20:03):
were five sugar works or engines as they are called
at Itapikuru, which compounded for five thousand ahobas of their produce.
On the island there were six engines in full employ
sixteen forty one. History of Brazil, Volume two, page nine,
end footnote. The cotton and rice are brought to Saint
(20:24):
Luis in barks of about twenty five or thirty tons burdened.
These come down the rivers with a stream from their plantations.
The return is not, however, so easy, as they are
obliged to be rowed or warped, but being then empty
or nearly so, the difficulty is not very great. Considerable
quantities of manufactured goods have been sent out from Great
(20:45):
Britain since the opening of the trade, as has been
done to the other principal ports upon the coast, but
already sail has not been found for them here to
any great amount. The province of Marignan will not bear
comparison with that of Pernambuk. It is still in an
infant state. There still exist wild Indians, and the plantations
(21:06):
upon the mainland are still in danger from their attacks.
The proportion of free persons is much smaller, the slaves
very much preponderate. But this class can, of necessity use
but little of what is in any degree expensive, or
what in such a climate as mere luxury. There exists
at Saint Luis a great inequality of ranks. The chief
(21:28):
richest of the place are in the hands of a
few men, who possess landed property to a great extent,
numerous gangs of slaves, and are also merchants. The wealth
of these persons, and the characters of some of the
individuals who enjoy it, have raised them to great weight
in consequence. And indeed one governor knows to his cost
that without their concurrence it is useless to attempt the
(21:50):
introduction of the innovations proposed, and impossible to trample long
upon the rest of the community. But the great inequality
of rank bespeaks the advancement of this place to have
been less rapid than of other settlements further south, where
the society is more amalgamated and property more divided. As
a port of trade with Europe, Saint Luis may be
(22:12):
accounted the fourth establishment upon the coast of Brazil, and
point of importance giving precedence to Hilo de Janeiro, Vaiea
and Pernobuco. The wild Indians have occasionally crossed from the
mainland to the island and have committed depredations upon the
houses and gardens in the neighborhood of Saint Luis. Some
(22:32):
of these people have been, at different times made prisoners
and brought to the town, where very little pains, I fear,
have been taken to conciliate them. I did not see
any of them, but they were represented to me as
most frightful beings. Their features are excessively ugly, and their
hair is black and preposterously long, both before and behind.
(22:54):
They are of a dark copper color, darker than Indians
that have been domesticated. The last individuals taken to the
number of four or five, were brought into the town
quite naked, were put into close confinement, and I was
informed that there they died. I could not find out
that any attempt had been made to send them back
(23:14):
as mediators, or that any plan of conciliation had been
entered into, and on mentioning something of this kind, I was,
in more than one instance told that it would be
of no use, that rigor was the only method. I
do not think that this is the general opinion regarding them.
But I much apprehend that but faint hopes can be
(23:35):
entertained of any zeal being shown by their civilization. There
are now no enthusiastic missionaries, the Jesuits no longer exist
in that country, and the other orders of friars had
become lazy and worse than useless. However, the Indians cannot
be enslaved. Therefore at least they are not hunted down
like wild cattle, as formerly was the practice. The name
(23:58):
which is given generally, both here and at Pernabuco to
all wild Indians is tapu Ya, and that of Kaboklo
is applied to those who have been domesticated. Having thus
given an outline of the place at which I had arrived,
I may now leave my quarters on board the brig
and be allowed to land, which I accomplished On the
morning subsequent to that of our entrance into the harbor,
(24:21):
I was received upon the key by my friend, a
young Portuguese with whom I had been intimate at England
and at Pernobuco. He told me it was necessary to
go to the palace for the purpose of presenting my
passport as the regulations of the port had for some
time been most strictly followed, and several indeed had been
lately added. I then, for the first time recollected that
(24:44):
I had no passport, having forgotten to obtain one, owing
to the haste with which I left Pernobuco. This produced
a demure, as my friend was afraid that I should
be imprisoned, the governor not being friendly to Englishmen. However,
I determined to call myself the super cargo of the brig.
We proceeded to the palace, the entrance to which was
(25:06):
guarded by two sentinels, and we passed several others in
going up the stairs into the ante chamber, where we
were received by a gentlemanlike officer, who heard what I
had to say, asked no questions, and soon dismissed us.
I thought I had seen the great Man himself, but
was undeceived, and heard that he seldom honored anyone with
(25:27):
an audience. The officer to whom we had spoken was
the lieutenant colonel the regiment of regular infantry the guard
at the palace consisted of one company. The muskets were
piled in front of the chief entrance and appeared to
be in good order, I soon discovered that Saint Luis
was ruled with most despotic sway. The people were afraid
(25:48):
of speaking, as no man knew how soon it might
be his fate to be arrested from some trifling expression
which he might allow to escape him. The governor was
so tenacious of the honors due to his state, that
he required every person who crossed the area in front
of the palace to remain uncovered until he had entirely
passed the whole building. Not that the Governor was himself
(26:10):
always in view, but the sadderation was thought necessary even
to the building within which he dwelt. The distinction until
then reserved by the Romish Church for its highest dignitaries, was, however,
not thought by his excellency too exalted for himself. The
bells of the cathedral rang every time he went out
(26:30):
in his carriage. Persons even of the first rank in
the place, were to stop, if in their carriages or
on horseback, when they met him, and were to allow
him to pass before they were again to move forwards.
And of Section twelve
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