August 19, 2025 • 22 mins
Embark on an enlightening journey through Brazil in this captivating first-hand account by an Englishman exploring the vibrant coastal regions of the Northeast just before Brazils independence from Portugal. Kosters travels, which also lead him to the northern port city of Maranh√£o, reveal the rich cultural practices and everyday life of the Brazilian people through a refreshingly objective lens. More than a mere travelogue, this work serves as a compelling ethnographic study that immerses readers in the essence of Brazilian society. (Summary by KevinS)
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Speaker 1 (00:00):
Section fifteen of Travels in Brazil, volume one by Henry Coster.
The s LibriVox recording is in the public domain. Chapter ten,
Part two. My friend and I walked out and descended
the hill by a path which led us to the
bed of the river, for there was now no water
in it. Great want of water is often experienced at
(00:23):
beaum Gardin, but I think that if wells of sufficient
depth were dug, a supply might be obtained. Footnote. Directions
were given by the capital more that a reservoir for
rain water should be formed, and these have been carried
into effect eighteen fifteen end footnote. On our return to
(00:45):
the village, we discovered that mass was about to be said,
and therefore we accompanied some of our party to the church.
It was crowded. Indeed, it is a remark which I
was frequently led to make that on Sundays and holidays,
when the peasantry reassemble at the church doors, their numbers
must astonish those persons who merely pass through the country
(01:06):
without opportunities being afforded to them. Of a more minute examination,
the cottages upon the roadside do not promise so numerous
a population as is on these occasions to be seen
but from the thickness of the woods and the lowness
of the huts. Even when a view of the country is,
by any accident to be obtained from a high hill,
(01:29):
the dwellings of the lower orders of people are not
to be perceived. They are scattered all over the country,
and narrow paths which appear impassable or nearly so, and
are scarcely to be observed, often lead to four or
five huts situated in the center of a wood, or
upon some low ground adapted to the cultivation of mangiac
(01:50):
and maize. One company was reviewed at bon Jardine, and
from hence a captain was deputed to continue the review
further into the country. We rode this afternoon one lead
to the house of Captain Anselmo, being so far upon
our return. On our way to this place, we saw
the woods on one side of the road on fire.
(02:11):
In the dry season, the grass and brushwood become so
completely parched that the least spark sets a whole tract
of country in a blaze. I mean that the fire
will sometimes run on for a league, and even more
will occasionally blaze forth, most violently and catching the branches
of the large trees. The flames will at intervals flash above.
(02:32):
The summit will then subside, but continues smothered in the
hollow of some aged tree, and in a heap of
leaves which still retains some moisture. But a breath of
air spreads it abroad, and it again runs on with violence.
The peasants almost invariably smoke as they go along, and
oftentimes they ask for a lighted piece of wood at
(02:54):
a cottage which they may chance to pass. It is
astonishing to see with what unconcerned they will hurl this
from them, still unextinguished, knowing as they do, full well
the consequences which frequently have ensued the act of setting
fire to award his subject punishment by law if intention
or even carelessness can be proved. The crop of canes,
(03:16):
as some estates, have, in many instances, been injured by
these means. Captain Ansalomo resides upon a cotton plantation, which
is his own property and is cultivated by about forty negroes.
The house is situated upon the shelf of a steep hill,
with a beautiful plain below, upon which trees are thickly scattered.
(03:39):
At the foot of the hill is a large fish
pond through which a rivulet runs in the rainy season.
The owner has lately enclosed a piece of land and
was making a garden upon the borders of the pond.
The dwelling house was new and had a second floor.
It was very clean and well furnished. This was the
most pleasantly situated in the best terrain mansion which we
(04:01):
visited during this journey. The huts for the slaves were
well built and looked comfortable. Here we are entertained with
such music as has as yet found its way into
these parts of the country. Three negroes with bagpipes attempted
to play a few tunes whilst we were at dinner,
but they seemed to play in different keys from each other,
(04:21):
and sometimes each appeared to have struck up a tune
of his own composing. I think I never heard so
bad an attempt at producing harmonious sounds as the Charromalehros made.
The possession of a band of these bespeaks a certain
degree of superiority. Consequently, the planters pride themselves upon their musicians.
(04:43):
Our party could not let pass this opportunity of beginning
together without practicing the amusement of the intrudo. Footnote, The
Monday and Tuesday before ash Wednesday are properly the days
of the entrudo, but the sport is, as in the
case in question, often commenced a week before the appointed time.
Water and hair powder are the ingredients which are established
(05:06):
to be hurled at each other, but frequently no medium
is preserved, and everything is taken up heedlessly and thrown
about by all parties, whether it be clean or dirty,
whether it may do mischief or is harmless. And footnote,
although the usual time of its celebration was yet distant,
one week on the days subsequent to that of our arrival,
(05:29):
dinner was scarcely over. Before the farina, the bananas, the rice,
and other dainties upon the table were hurled at each
other's heads. Soon the smart uniform coats were taken off,
and in his shirt sleeves, each man began the civil
war with heart and soul. Everything was borne with perfect
good humor, and at last, fatigued and be daubed. All
(05:49):
of us retired to the hammocks which had been provided
for the party. But as our evil stars would have it,
a brave captain closed quietly all the shutters, as the
moon was shining very bright in the room, and then
he placed himself near to an enormous jar of water
which stood in one corner of the apartment, with a
small pitcher in his hand, soon dealt around him its contents,
(06:12):
awakening us with repeated showers and obliging us to take
shelter under the chairs and tables. This another joke's allied to.
It continued until the break of day, when we prepared
for a continuation of our journey. One company was reviewed
here we proceeded to the house of Captain Paolo Travaso,
(06:32):
distant one league. As was our usual custom, my friend
and I walked out soon after our arrival, and in returning,
instead of pursuing the path, which was rather circuitous, we
attempted to climb up a bank that we might the
sooner reach the house. My friend was before me, and
as he scrambled up to it, his foot slipped, which
(06:54):
caused him to catch at the stump of a small
plant that grew upon the side of the bank. He
gave up his idea of going by that way to
the house and returned to me, bringing with him the
plant with its root and the earth about it. On
going to throw it away, he perceived upon his hand
the glitter of a substance, which made us return to
the spot. We gathered some more of the earth, and
(07:17):
this gentleman, who had long resided upon the coast of Africa,
judged the substance which was mixed with it to be
gold dust. At this place the intrudeau was continued more
violently than before, for even the blackened pots and pans
from the kitchen were introduced to besmear each other's faces.
We obtained here a view of the females belonging to
(07:38):
the house, but everywhere else they had been too rigorously
guarded or were naturally too reserved to enable us to
see them. Some excuse was made by the young men
who were acquainted with a family to draw them into sport,
and the ladies and their slaves were nothing loath to
see and to participate in what was going Forwards, a
(07:59):
circumstance occur which created much laughter, and which is but
too characteristic. One man, whom we met in this place,
had all along begged of those who were engaged in
the sport that they would not wet him, because he
was unwell However, it was seen that he did not
observe towards others the four barons which he entreated from them,
toward himself. One of the parties, seeing this, attacked him
(08:22):
with a large silver ladle filled with water. The man
ran out of the house, and the other followed, But
when they were at some distance from it, he turned
upon his pursuer, and, drawing his knife, stood at some distance,
threatening to stab him if he advanced. The other, striking
his left side at the place in which knives are
usually carried, likewise threatened him, and without delay advanced toward him,
(08:47):
having picked up a thick stick as he approached. But
his adversary did not like the thoughts of a close combat,
and soon set off at full speed with his knife
in his hand. In this manner, he entered the back
door of the house, whilst he of the silver ladle
took the front door. They met in the apartment from
which they had started, when the latter opened his waistcoat
(09:08):
and showed that he had not a knife, thus proving
before the whole party that he with a knife had
run away from one who was unarmed. This was quite
sufficient the women made a general attack upon him, he
went to the stable, mounted his horse, and set forth.
But his misfortunes had not yet ended. For the path
by which he must retreat lay under two of the
(09:29):
windows of the house, and as he passed, two large
tubs of water drenched him and his steed, which immediately
quickened its pace. Amidst the hooting of every one present,
we continued our journey in the afternoon to a sugar plantation,
the property of Captain Joan Suarez, where we remained until
the following day. Some of us were tired of the
(09:51):
entrudal and therefore sought shelter in the mill and adjoining
out houses when we saw the sport again commencing, But
we were about to to be attacked when we gain
the roofs of one of the buildings, and from hence
could not be dislodged. I had frequently seen the saboera
or soap tree, which is to be chiefly found in
(10:12):
these districts. It is a large shrub which puts forth
numerous branches in every direction, so that when it is
in full leaf, it has somewhat the appearance of trees
that have been clipped, as was formerly practiced in gardens,
which is increased by the leaves being small and growing
very close to each other. The receptacle of the seed
(10:32):
is about the size of a small plum. When this
is put into water and rubbed with some violence, it
produces the same effect as that which is caused by
soap and water, and it has the same property of cleansing.
The paudo alio or garlic trees to be met with
in great abundance in these districts. The name is derived
(10:52):
from the similitude of the smell of the leaves and
the wood of this plant to garlic. The tree abounds
so greatly, and I suppose reminded the first settlers so
much of one of their favorite European culinary ingredients, that
it is given name to a town and to a
whole district. About five o'clock in the afternoon, we proceeded
(11:13):
to Limoeiro, a large and thriving village. Footnote. Limoeiro was
raised to a township by an alavata issued from Hugh
de Janeiro on the twenty seventh of July eighteen eleven,
but this was not then known. It has now a mayor,
municipality and capital. More end footnote. It is composed of
(11:36):
one street of about three quarters of a mile in length,
which is closed at one end by the church in vicarage.
This building belonged formerly to the Jesuits. The trade of Limoeiro,
where the interior is considerable, and particularly on the day
of the market, which is held weekly, the bustle is excessive.
These days seldom pass without some murders being committed, or
(11:58):
at least many wounds in blows being given. But the
markets of Nazareth or Lagoa Danta are those which are
particularly famed for the disturbances that usually take place there.
These became so considerable at one time that the governor
found it necessary to issue orders for a patrol to
keep the peace on market days. Bmoeiro contained about six
(12:22):
hundred inhabitants and is increasing daily. It stands upon the
banks of the river Capa Baribe, which was at this
time quite dry. The distance from Hesifi's fourteen good leagues.
We are entertained by the vicar, who has taken very
little pains to have a decent residence, and cannot fail
to be somewhat indifferent about his own life. For every
(12:45):
step to which we advanced, as we ascend, it to
the apartments above promised to be the last that would
hold us. The floors of the rooms into which we
were ushered seemed to be laid out as traps to
ensnare those who might not tread cautiously. Some of the
boards were broken and large holes remained. Others were loose,
and it was dangerous to pass over them. And besides
(13:07):
the several perils of this mansion, substances which are not
pleasant to the nose might unwarily be trampled upon. Never
did I see so miserable a dwelling whose inhabitant might,
with so much case, have bettered the state in which
we found it. However, I ought not to complain, for
to counterbalance all this we had a teapot, sugar basin,
(13:28):
and other parts of the equipage of silver. The capitin
Moor had still several posts a visit which would delay
him for a considerable time. Therefore, as my friend was
anxious to return to Assife, we left our party with
much regret, and were accompanied in the morning by the adjutant,
who was about to return home. I had been greatly
(13:50):
amused and wished to have seen the conclusion of the
affair at Limoeiro, several companies were to be reviewed, and
from thence the capitin Moor pros to Paudoliu footnote. This
place was erected a township by the same alvara which
was issued respecting Limoero, and by the same the village
(14:12):
of Cape Saint Augustine and of Saint Antem were likewise
raised to the rank of towns, a sure sign of
the increase of population and footnote. And Nazareth or Lagoa
Danta footnote. This village is as much or more generally
known by the name of Lagoa Dante than by that
(14:34):
of Nazareth, but the latter is the name which it
bears in law. The former name, which means the lake
of the Anta, seems to denote that the animal is
known in this part of the country. But in the
present day I could not meet with any of the
peasants who knew what the word Anta was intended to signify.
Close footnote. Two large villages of considerable importance, Both of
(14:58):
them are within a few leagues of the place which
we separated from our companions. We returned to Santa Cruz,
passed through that village and were entertained at the house
of the Adjutan. We reached Agaia in the afternoon, being
received at that place by one of the Capitain Moor's sons,
a young man of eighteen years of age. We also
saw the Capitain Moor's interesting wife, who was likewise his niece.
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She was about fifteen years of age, he being about
forty six. We slept there and stopped at Pallista's on
the following day at noon, from whence we proceeded to Hessife.
On the evening of the sixth of February, I heard
one of the sugar planters bitterly complaining of his poverty,
and that his want of hands to work his mill
(15:43):
obliged him to give up the cultivation of much of
the best land of his estate. Soon after he had
uttered these complaints, the conversation turned upon saddle horses in
their trappings, and he then told us that he had
lately purchased a new saddle and bridle, which he wished
us to see. These new trappings were most superb affairs.
(16:03):
The saddle was made of Morocco leather and green velvet,
and silver headed nails in plates of the same metal
were profusely scattered and placed upon all parts of this
and of the bridle. He told us that the whole
had cost him four hundred mile hays about a hundred
and ten pounds. This sum of money would have purchased
(16:24):
four slaves. But the matter did not end here, for
he opened a drawer on which were strewed several broken
silver spoons, spurs, et cetera. And he said that he
was collecting a sufficient quantity of this metal for the
purpose of having his groom's horse ornamented in the same
manner as his own. The free persons of color who
inhabit the tract of country through which we passed are
(16:47):
more numerous than I had previously imagined. The companies of
Ordan ANSAs very much in strength. Some consist of one
hundred and fifty men and more, and others of not
above fifty. The peasant tree of the Mata, that is,
of the country which lies between the plentiful, well watered
districts of the coast and the Certoines, have not a
(17:08):
general good character. The miserable life which they, oftener than others,
are obliged to lead from the want of water and
of provisions, seems to have an unfavorable effect upon them,
they are represented as being more vindictive and more quarrelsome,
and less hospitable than their neighbors. To say that a
man is a matuto tamata a woodman of the wood,
(17:31):
is no recommendation to him. During this journey I heard
the following story, and as I was acquainted with a
person to whom the circumstances occurred, I can vouch for
its veracity. A Brazilian who had been wealthy, but who had,
through many imprudencies and from many deeds which deserve a
much severer name, reduced himself to a state of comparative poverty,
(17:56):
resided in this part of the country at the time
I traveled through it. He was a man of loose
morals and savage disposition, but of most pleasant manners. He had,
in one particular instance which pre eminently stamped his character,
behaved in a most shameful manner to a lady to
whom he professed himself to be attached. He had possessed
(18:17):
many slaves, but at the time the following occurrence took place,
three or four only remained, and of these one alone
was in health, apprehensive of being assassinated by some of
the persons whom he had injured and insulted. He usually
kept the doors and windows of his residence well secured,
excepting one entrance, which was likewise closed. At dusk one evening,
(18:40):
three men knocked at the door and asked leave to
pass the night in some of the outhouses of the plantation.
The owner answered from within, but did not open the door,
saying that they might sleep in the mill. About an
hour afterwards, there was another knock, and a person requested
that some fruit might be sold to him. The owner
effect and inconsiderately opened the door to give it to
(19:03):
the man, but when he looked out, all the three
were there, and as he reached the fruit to one
of them, a second fired, and the greatest part of
the shot entered the abdomen. The known courage of the
wounded man made these fellows hesitate in approaching him immediately,
by which means he had time to reach his sword,
which stood near to where he was, and he was
(19:24):
enabled to close and bolt the door. This being done,
he reached his bed with great difficulty, expecting that every
minute would be his last. The men tried to gain
admittance through some of the doors or windows, but not
succeeding on this, they rode off. As soon as the slave,
who was in health, heard the report of the gun
and saw as master wounded, he made all haste to
(19:47):
a neighboring plantation distant one league. The owner of the
place to which the slave had fled ordered a hammock
to be prepared, and set off with sixteen negroes. He
was accompanied by his chaplain, who brought with him a
candle and all the other necessary appendages to the bedside
of a dying Catholic. They arrived and found the wounded
(20:08):
man in a state which led them to suppose that
he could not live many hours. But he was confessed
and anointed with the Holy oil, and thus prepared for
the worst. Then they put him into the hammock, and
his neighbor had him conveyed to his residence. The person
who related the story to me did not fail to
add that a lighted candle was carried in a lantern,
(20:31):
that the wounded man should not run the risk of
dying without having the light in his hand, as is
the custom. A surgeon was sent for to Iguarasou, which
is distant several leagues, and he succeeded in extracting almost
all the shot, notwithstanding the delay in other unfavorable circumstances.
I saw this man in good health in eighteen thirteen,
(20:54):
whilst he still remained in a dangerous state at the
house of his friend. A Certanasio Indian well armed, passed
through the place and asked one of the Negroes if
he was still alive. Was generally said that he must
remove to some far distant part of the country, otherwise
he might daily expect another attack, and particularly as his
enemies were set an asiles. The men who had attempted
(21:17):
to murder him were dressed after the manner of these people,
and were seen on the following day traveling towards the interior.
They mentioned at some of the cottages at which they
stopped that they believed they had prevented one man from
eating any more beerum, which is equal to an European
using in the same manner the word bred. The person
(21:38):
whom they had attacked could not be sure of a
quarter from whence the blow proceeded, for many were those
from which he might have expected it. In Brazil, injured
persons or their relatives must either allow their own wrongs
and those of their families to go unpunished, or they
must themselves undertake the chastisement of him who has committed
the crime. The evil proceeds immediately from the vastness of
(22:02):
the country and from the want of attention, and the
government to counteract this disadvantage. End of Section fifteen
Section fifteen of Travels in Brazil, volume one by Henry Coster.
The s LibriVox recording is in the public domain. Chapter ten,
Part two. My friend and I walked out and descended
the hill by a path which led us to the
bed of the river, for there was now no water
in it. Great want of water is often experienced at
(00:23):
beaum Gardin, but I think that if wells of sufficient
depth were dug, a supply might be obtained. Footnote. Directions
were given by the capital more that a reservoir for
rain water should be formed, and these have been carried
into effect eighteen fifteen end footnote. On our return to
(00:45):
the village, we discovered that mass was about to be said,
and therefore we accompanied some of our party to the church.
It was crowded. Indeed, it is a remark which I
was frequently led to make that on Sundays and holidays,
when the peasantry reassemble at the church doors, their numbers
must astonish those persons who merely pass through the country
(01:06):
without opportunities being afforded to them. Of a more minute examination,
the cottages upon the roadside do not promise so numerous
a population as is on these occasions to be seen
but from the thickness of the woods and the lowness
of the huts. Even when a view of the country is,
by any accident to be obtained from a high hill,
(01:29):
the dwellings of the lower orders of people are not
to be perceived. They are scattered all over the country,
and narrow paths which appear impassable or nearly so, and
are scarcely to be observed, often lead to four or
five huts situated in the center of a wood, or
upon some low ground adapted to the cultivation of mangiac
(01:50):
and maize. One company was reviewed at bon Jardine, and
from hence a captain was deputed to continue the review
further into the country. We rode this afternoon one lead
to the house of Captain Anselmo, being so far upon
our return. On our way to this place, we saw
the woods on one side of the road on fire.
(02:11):
In the dry season, the grass and brushwood become so
completely parched that the least spark sets a whole tract
of country in a blaze. I mean that the fire
will sometimes run on for a league, and even more
will occasionally blaze forth, most violently and catching the branches
of the large trees. The flames will at intervals flash above.
(02:32):
The summit will then subside, but continues smothered in the
hollow of some aged tree, and in a heap of
leaves which still retains some moisture. But a breath of
air spreads it abroad, and it again runs on with violence.
The peasants almost invariably smoke as they go along, and
oftentimes they ask for a lighted piece of wood at
(02:54):
a cottage which they may chance to pass. It is
astonishing to see with what unconcerned they will hurl this
from them, still unextinguished, knowing as they do, full well
the consequences which frequently have ensued the act of setting
fire to award his subject punishment by law if intention
or even carelessness can be proved. The crop of canes,
(03:16):
as some estates, have, in many instances, been injured by
these means. Captain Ansalomo resides upon a cotton plantation, which
is his own property and is cultivated by about forty negroes.
The house is situated upon the shelf of a steep hill,
with a beautiful plain below, upon which trees are thickly scattered.
(03:39):
At the foot of the hill is a large fish
pond through which a rivulet runs in the rainy season.
The owner has lately enclosed a piece of land and
was making a garden upon the borders of the pond.
The dwelling house was new and had a second floor.
It was very clean and well furnished. This was the
most pleasantly situated in the best terrain mansion which we
(04:01):
visited during this journey. The huts for the slaves were
well built and looked comfortable. Here we are entertained with
such music as has as yet found its way into
these parts of the country. Three negroes with bagpipes attempted
to play a few tunes whilst we were at dinner,
but they seemed to play in different keys from each other,
(04:21):
and sometimes each appeared to have struck up a tune
of his own composing. I think I never heard so
bad an attempt at producing harmonious sounds as the Charromalehros made.
The possession of a band of these bespeaks a certain
degree of superiority. Consequently, the planters pride themselves upon their musicians.
(04:43):
Our party could not let pass this opportunity of beginning
together without practicing the amusement of the intrudo. Footnote, The
Monday and Tuesday before ash Wednesday are properly the days
of the entrudo, but the sport is, as in the
case in question, often commenced a week before the appointed time.
Water and hair powder are the ingredients which are established
(05:06):
to be hurled at each other, but frequently no medium
is preserved, and everything is taken up heedlessly and thrown
about by all parties, whether it be clean or dirty,
whether it may do mischief or is harmless. And footnote,
although the usual time of its celebration was yet distant,
one week on the days subsequent to that of our arrival,
(05:29):
dinner was scarcely over. Before the farina, the bananas, the rice,
and other dainties upon the table were hurled at each
other's heads. Soon the smart uniform coats were taken off,
and in his shirt sleeves, each man began the civil
war with heart and soul. Everything was borne with perfect
good humor, and at last, fatigued and be daubed. All
(05:49):
of us retired to the hammocks which had been provided
for the party. But as our evil stars would have it,
a brave captain closed quietly all the shutters, as the
moon was shining very bright in the room, and then
he placed himself near to an enormous jar of water
which stood in one corner of the apartment, with a
small pitcher in his hand, soon dealt around him its contents,
(06:12):
awakening us with repeated showers and obliging us to take
shelter under the chairs and tables. This another joke's allied to.
It continued until the break of day, when we prepared
for a continuation of our journey. One company was reviewed
here we proceeded to the house of Captain Paolo Travaso,
(06:32):
distant one league. As was our usual custom, my friend
and I walked out soon after our arrival, and in returning,
instead of pursuing the path, which was rather circuitous, we
attempted to climb up a bank that we might the
sooner reach the house. My friend was before me, and
as he scrambled up to it, his foot slipped, which
(06:54):
caused him to catch at the stump of a small
plant that grew upon the side of the bank. He
gave up his idea of going by that way to
the house and returned to me, bringing with him the
plant with its root and the earth about it. On
going to throw it away, he perceived upon his hand
the glitter of a substance, which made us return to
the spot. We gathered some more of the earth, and
(07:17):
this gentleman, who had long resided upon the coast of Africa,
judged the substance which was mixed with it to be
gold dust. At this place the intrudeau was continued more
violently than before, for even the blackened pots and pans
from the kitchen were introduced to besmear each other's faces.
We obtained here a view of the females belonging to
(07:38):
the house, but everywhere else they had been too rigorously
guarded or were naturally too reserved to enable us to
see them. Some excuse was made by the young men
who were acquainted with a family to draw them into sport,
and the ladies and their slaves were nothing loath to
see and to participate in what was going Forwards, a
(07:59):
circumstance occur which created much laughter, and which is but
too characteristic. One man, whom we met in this place,
had all along begged of those who were engaged in
the sport that they would not wet him, because he
was unwell However, it was seen that he did not
observe towards others the four barons which he entreated from them,
toward himself. One of the parties, seeing this, attacked him
(08:22):
with a large silver ladle filled with water. The man
ran out of the house, and the other followed, But
when they were at some distance from it, he turned
upon his pursuer, and, drawing his knife, stood at some distance,
threatening to stab him if he advanced. The other, striking
his left side at the place in which knives are
usually carried, likewise threatened him, and without delay advanced toward him,
(08:47):
having picked up a thick stick as he approached. But
his adversary did not like the thoughts of a close combat,
and soon set off at full speed with his knife
in his hand. In this manner, he entered the back
door of the house, whilst he of the silver ladle
took the front door. They met in the apartment from
which they had started, when the latter opened his waistcoat
(09:08):
and showed that he had not a knife, thus proving
before the whole party that he with a knife had
run away from one who was unarmed. This was quite
sufficient the women made a general attack upon him, he
went to the stable, mounted his horse, and set forth.
But his misfortunes had not yet ended. For the path
by which he must retreat lay under two of the
(09:29):
windows of the house, and as he passed, two large
tubs of water drenched him and his steed, which immediately
quickened its pace. Amidst the hooting of every one present,
we continued our journey in the afternoon to a sugar plantation,
the property of Captain Joan Suarez, where we remained until
the following day. Some of us were tired of the
(09:51):
entrudal and therefore sought shelter in the mill and adjoining
out houses when we saw the sport again commencing, But
we were about to to be attacked when we gain
the roofs of one of the buildings, and from hence
could not be dislodged. I had frequently seen the saboera
or soap tree, which is to be chiefly found in
(10:12):
these districts. It is a large shrub which puts forth
numerous branches in every direction, so that when it is
in full leaf, it has somewhat the appearance of trees
that have been clipped, as was formerly practiced in gardens,
which is increased by the leaves being small and growing
very close to each other. The receptacle of the seed
(10:32):
is about the size of a small plum. When this
is put into water and rubbed with some violence, it
produces the same effect as that which is caused by
soap and water, and it has the same property of cleansing.
The paudo alio or garlic trees to be met with
in great abundance in these districts. The name is derived
(10:52):
from the similitude of the smell of the leaves and
the wood of this plant to garlic. The tree abounds
so greatly, and I suppose reminded the first settlers so
much of one of their favorite European culinary ingredients, that
it is given name to a town and to a
whole district. About five o'clock in the afternoon, we proceeded
(11:13):
to Limoeiro, a large and thriving village. Footnote. Limoeiro was
raised to a township by an alavata issued from Hugh
de Janeiro on the twenty seventh of July eighteen eleven,
but this was not then known. It has now a mayor,
municipality and capital. More end footnote. It is composed of
(11:36):
one street of about three quarters of a mile in length,
which is closed at one end by the church in vicarage.
This building belonged formerly to the Jesuits. The trade of Limoeiro,
where the interior is considerable, and particularly on the day
of the market, which is held weekly, the bustle is excessive.
These days seldom pass without some murders being committed, or
(11:58):
at least many wounds in blows being given. But the
markets of Nazareth or Lagoa Danta are those which are
particularly famed for the disturbances that usually take place there.
These became so considerable at one time that the governor
found it necessary to issue orders for a patrol to
keep the peace on market days. Bmoeiro contained about six
(12:22):
hundred inhabitants and is increasing daily. It stands upon the
banks of the river Capa Baribe, which was at this
time quite dry. The distance from Hesifi's fourteen good leagues.
We are entertained by the vicar, who has taken very
little pains to have a decent residence, and cannot fail
to be somewhat indifferent about his own life. For every
(12:45):
step to which we advanced, as we ascend, it to
the apartments above promised to be the last that would
hold us. The floors of the rooms into which we
were ushered seemed to be laid out as traps to
ensnare those who might not tread cautiously. Some of the
boards were broken and large holes remained. Others were loose,
and it was dangerous to pass over them. And besides
(13:07):
the several perils of this mansion, substances which are not
pleasant to the nose might unwarily be trampled upon. Never
did I see so miserable a dwelling whose inhabitant might,
with so much case, have bettered the state in which
we found it. However, I ought not to complain, for
to counterbalance all this we had a teapot, sugar basin,
(13:28):
and other parts of the equipage of silver. The capitin
Moor had still several posts a visit which would delay
him for a considerable time. Therefore, as my friend was
anxious to return to Assife, we left our party with
much regret, and were accompanied in the morning by the adjutant,
who was about to return home. I had been greatly
(13:50):
amused and wished to have seen the conclusion of the
affair at Limoeiro, several companies were to be reviewed, and
from thence the capitin Moor pros to Paudoliu footnote. This
place was erected a township by the same alvara which
was issued respecting Limoero, and by the same the village
(14:12):
of Cape Saint Augustine and of Saint Antem were likewise
raised to the rank of towns, a sure sign of
the increase of population and footnote. And Nazareth or Lagoa
Danta footnote. This village is as much or more generally
known by the name of Lagoa Dante than by that
(14:34):
of Nazareth, but the latter is the name which it
bears in law. The former name, which means the lake
of the Anta, seems to denote that the animal is
known in this part of the country. But in the
present day I could not meet with any of the
peasants who knew what the word Anta was intended to signify.
Close footnote. Two large villages of considerable importance, Both of
(14:58):
them are within a few leagues of the place which
we separated from our companions. We returned to Santa Cruz,
passed through that village and were entertained at the house
of the Adjutan. We reached Agaia in the afternoon, being
received at that place by one of the Capitain Moor's sons,
a young man of eighteen years of age. We also
saw the Capitain Moor's interesting wife, who was likewise his niece.
(15:22):
She was about fifteen years of age, he being about
forty six. We slept there and stopped at Pallista's on
the following day at noon, from whence we proceeded to Hessife.
On the evening of the sixth of February, I heard
one of the sugar planters bitterly complaining of his poverty,
and that his want of hands to work his mill
(15:43):
obliged him to give up the cultivation of much of
the best land of his estate. Soon after he had
uttered these complaints, the conversation turned upon saddle horses in
their trappings, and he then told us that he had
lately purchased a new saddle and bridle, which he wished
us to see. These new trappings were most superb affairs.
(16:03):
The saddle was made of Morocco leather and green velvet,
and silver headed nails in plates of the same metal
were profusely scattered and placed upon all parts of this
and of the bridle. He told us that the whole
had cost him four hundred mile hays about a hundred
and ten pounds. This sum of money would have purchased
(16:24):
four slaves. But the matter did not end here, for
he opened a drawer on which were strewed several broken
silver spoons, spurs, et cetera. And he said that he
was collecting a sufficient quantity of this metal for the
purpose of having his groom's horse ornamented in the same
manner as his own. The free persons of color who
inhabit the tract of country through which we passed are
(16:47):
more numerous than I had previously imagined. The companies of
Ordan ANSAs very much in strength. Some consist of one
hundred and fifty men and more, and others of not
above fifty. The peasant tree of the Mata, that is,
of the country which lies between the plentiful, well watered
districts of the coast and the Certoines, have not a
(17:08):
general good character. The miserable life which they, oftener than others,
are obliged to lead from the want of water and
of provisions, seems to have an unfavorable effect upon them,
they are represented as being more vindictive and more quarrelsome,
and less hospitable than their neighbors. To say that a
man is a matuto tamata a woodman of the wood,
(17:31):
is no recommendation to him. During this journey I heard
the following story, and as I was acquainted with a
person to whom the circumstances occurred, I can vouch for
its veracity. A Brazilian who had been wealthy, but who had,
through many imprudencies and from many deeds which deserve a
much severer name, reduced himself to a state of comparative poverty,
(17:56):
resided in this part of the country at the time
I traveled through it. He was a man of loose
morals and savage disposition, but of most pleasant manners. He had,
in one particular instance which pre eminently stamped his character,
behaved in a most shameful manner to a lady to
whom he professed himself to be attached. He had possessed
(18:17):
many slaves, but at the time the following occurrence took place,
three or four only remained, and of these one alone
was in health, apprehensive of being assassinated by some of
the persons whom he had injured and insulted. He usually
kept the doors and windows of his residence well secured,
excepting one entrance, which was likewise closed. At dusk one evening,
(18:40):
three men knocked at the door and asked leave to
pass the night in some of the outhouses of the plantation.
The owner answered from within, but did not open the door,
saying that they might sleep in the mill. About an
hour afterwards, there was another knock, and a person requested
that some fruit might be sold to him. The owner
effect and inconsiderately opened the door to give it to
(19:03):
the man, but when he looked out, all the three
were there, and as he reached the fruit to one
of them, a second fired, and the greatest part of
the shot entered the abdomen. The known courage of the
wounded man made these fellows hesitate in approaching him immediately,
by which means he had time to reach his sword,
which stood near to where he was, and he was
(19:24):
enabled to close and bolt the door. This being done,
he reached his bed with great difficulty, expecting that every
minute would be his last. The men tried to gain
admittance through some of the doors or windows, but not
succeeding on this, they rode off. As soon as the slave,
who was in health, heard the report of the gun
and saw as master wounded, he made all haste to
(19:47):
a neighboring plantation distant one league. The owner of the
place to which the slave had fled ordered a hammock
to be prepared, and set off with sixteen negroes. He
was accompanied by his chaplain, who brought with him a
candle and all the other necessary appendages to the bedside
of a dying Catholic. They arrived and found the wounded
(20:08):
man in a state which led them to suppose that
he could not live many hours. But he was confessed
and anointed with the Holy oil, and thus prepared for
the worst. Then they put him into the hammock, and
his neighbor had him conveyed to his residence. The person
who related the story to me did not fail to
add that a lighted candle was carried in a lantern,
(20:31):
that the wounded man should not run the risk of
dying without having the light in his hand, as is
the custom. A surgeon was sent for to Iguarasou, which
is distant several leagues, and he succeeded in extracting almost
all the shot, notwithstanding the delay in other unfavorable circumstances.
I saw this man in good health in eighteen thirteen,
(20:54):
whilst he still remained in a dangerous state at the
house of his friend. A Certanasio Indian well armed, passed
through the place and asked one of the Negroes if
he was still alive. Was generally said that he must
remove to some far distant part of the country, otherwise
he might daily expect another attack, and particularly as his
enemies were set an asiles. The men who had attempted
(21:17):
to murder him were dressed after the manner of these people,
and were seen on the following day traveling towards the interior.
They mentioned at some of the cottages at which they
stopped that they believed they had prevented one man from
eating any more beerum, which is equal to an European
using in the same manner the word bred. The person
(21:38):
whom they had attacked could not be sure of a
quarter from whence the blow proceeded, for many were those
from which he might have expected it. In Brazil, injured
persons or their relatives must either allow their own wrongs
and those of their families to go unpunished, or they
must themselves undertake the chastisement of him who has committed
the crime. The evil proceeds immediately from the vastness of
(22:02):
the country and from the want of attention, and the
government to counteract this disadvantage. End of Section fifteen
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