August 19, 2025 • 51 mins
Embark on an enlightening journey through Brazil in this captivating first-hand account by an Englishman exploring the vibrant coastal regions of the Northeast just before Brazils independence from Portugal. Kosters travels, which also lead him to the northern port city of Maranh√£o, reveal the rich cultural practices and everyday life of the Brazilian people through a refreshingly objective lens. More than a mere travelogue, this work serves as a compelling ethnographic study that immerses readers in the essence of Brazilian society. (Summary by KevinS)
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Speaker 1 (00:01):
Section eighteen of Travels in Brazil, Volume one by Henry Coster.
The Sleepovox recording is in the public domain. Chapter twelve,
Journey to uninya continuation of my residence at Jagaribe Negro,
Brotherhood of Olinda blessing the sugar works Mandinguerus in Valentoine's
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About the middle of January eighteen thirteen, I went to
stay for some days at the cottage of an acquaintance
who resided upon the plain of Barbayllu, for the purpose
of purchasing a few horses. This place is near to
the village of Montero, but it is on the opposite
side of the river. Barballo is a plain of some
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extent upon which cattle are turned out to feed. The
soil of it is a stiff, dark colored clay, and
the grass which grows upon it is of a coarse species.
This becomes quite dry during the summer months, and when
in this state it is set on fire, that the
tender shoots which again spring up, may serve as food
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for the animals that are to graze upon it. The
fire will run along the ground, urged by a fresh breeze,
will sometimes contract, and at others spread each way, presenting
to the beholders a fiery wall. The sight is grand.
It is upon a grand scale, which gives it a
terrific appearance. The inhabitants of the skirts of this plain
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carefully preserve a circle around their houses and gardens clear
of vegetation, apprehensive of some inconsiderate traveler who may chance
to light his pipe as he goes along and throw away,
unextinguished the fire stick of which he has made use.
The person with whom I was staying persuade me to
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ride with him to the sugar plantation of Unina, which
is distant six leagues to the southward of Barbayou. He
described the place is being very beautiful than I consented.
This was the only opportunity which conveniently offered itself of
seeing the country in this direction. But I much regret
not having made greater exertions to visit the southern districts
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of Pernambuco. We passed through the hamlet and by the
parish church of the Varzaia. A considerable extent of countryes
known under this name, containing some of the finest cane
lands of the province, which are owned by men of
wealth who know the value of what they possess, and
consequently the plantations are in a flourishing condition. The Varzaia
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is famous in Pernambuca history as the site of a
great deal of fighting. Camaraghibe, which is in the vicinity,
or rather a part of the Varzaia, and is spoken
of by the historian of that country, is now a
flourishing sugar plantation. Footnote. I am not certain of the
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situation of the Montchidas Tabocas, where one of the chief
battles was fought between the Portuguese and the Dutch in
sixteen forty five History of Brazil, Volume two, page one
o eight. There is now a plantation called Tabocas, which
is owned by one of the chiefs of the Cavalcante family.
But as I was acquainted with him and several other
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persons of the same description, I think the circumstance would
have been mentioned if this had been the place and
footnote we reached the sugar plantation of Kamasari, belonging to
the Carmelite Friars. It is in high order, that is,
the slaves and cattle are in good condition, and everything
upon it appeared cheerful, but it does not yield so
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much produce as it might if the strength of the
laborers was pushed to the utmost. I looked into the mill,
which is turned by water, and saw some handsome mulatto
girls feeding the mill with cane. They were dressed in
petticoats of printed cotton and smocks of cambric muslin, and
they wore upon their necks in an their ears gold ornaments.
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They were singing in parts very tolerably. The difference between
the plantations which belong to convents and those which are
possessed by individuals who reside upon them and have a
direct interest in every trifling increase or decrease at the
gains is very striking. The estates of Friars are worked
almost exclusively by negroes who have been born upon them.
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Everything goes on easily and regularly. If much is made,
the better satisfied is the chief for the time being.
But if on the contrary, little is obtained, still the
affairs of the community go on. We proceed it, and
at some distance beyond descend it from a high hill
into a narrow valley which was completely imbosomed by the
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eminences around, and so enclosed that we appeared to intrude
upon its inhabitants in crossing the spot of their retirement.
The grass upon the hills was dry, but all below
was yet in full health. At length we arrived at
the plantation of Unina, which is situated upon an extensive
field composed of uneven ground and watered by several springs.
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The mill is turned by oxen, which is a late improvement,
horses being usually employed where water cannot be obtained. We
dined with the owner and he returned with us to
Barbayou in the afternoon. I was much delighted with the
day's amusement. This was the most beautiful part of the
country which I visited. Taken as a whole. The hills
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and valleys are not high or extensive, but they are
decidedly marked here. Cultivation formed a considerable feature in the country.
The cane lands were extensive, and the mills for its
manufacture into sugar numerous. On my return from Unina, I
wished still to remain at Barbayo for a few days,
and therefore the owner of the cottage at which I
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was staying went on to Jagowaribe to remain there until
I could join him. I stayed with Manoel. Then one morning,
Manuel had gone to cut a bundle of grass, and
on his return met with an old acquaintance, a cree
ole negro. They quarreled by the way, and as they
came near to where I resided, the matter became serious
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and blows were given and received, both of the men
being armed with long poles. Simau saw this, took up
a drawn sword, which was lying upon a chair, and
ran out to assist his comrade. I went out to
put a stop to the business, and discovered that Simaud
had cut an enormous gash in the fellow's head. The
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man was brought into the cottage and his wound was dressed.
An acquaintance of mine happened now to come in, and
he took charge of the negro and carried him home
to his master. The negro was taking a load of
grass for the horses of the governor, who resided at Montero,
which is within half a mile at the side of
these transactions. Notice would have been taken of the affair immediately,
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owing to the circumstances of the negro being employed for
the governor. If his Excellency had not been informed that
the offending negroes. For such I consider mine to have
been belonged to an Englishman, upon which no more inquiry
was made, And as it was discovered that the master
had nothing to do with the effray, no cognizance was
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taken of the matter by the military power. If the
owner of the wounded slave had chosen so to do,
he might have put me to much expense and trouble,
for he might have accused my negroes of assaulting his
But the law of itself seldom does anything. Even in
cases of murder. The prosecutor or accuser as he is called,
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has it had his option to bring on the trial
or not. If he can be bribed or otherwise persuaded
to give up the accusation, the matter drops to the ground.
Thus the spirit of laws changed from the principle of
bringing an offender to justice for the general good of
society to that of prosecuting and revenge for the which
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he has committed against an individual. Soon after my return
to Jaguaribe, I was one evening surprised at the arrival
of a white man who was habited in uniform of
blue and red and accompanied by a great number of
loaded horses and of men who were dressed in leather
after the manner of the Serton. He delivered me a
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letter which I discovered not to be for me, but
for an Englishman who was occasionally with me. However, I
of course requested him to stay and gave directions for
the accommodation of his followers. He was a commandant from
the interior just at one hundred thirty leagues in the
back settlements of the province of Paraiba, at the foot
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of the Sejato Tescheia. He had put on board of
Jangadas at Paraiba a considerable quantity of cotton which he
had brought down from his estate, and he was now
traveling to Hasifi for the purpose of receiving him and
a purchasing necessaries, or rather luckies for his family, to
which he appeared to be extremely attached. We soon became intimate,
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and when he proceeded to Hassife at the close of
a few days, he left some of his men and
horses at Jagoribe. It is among the inhabitants of places
so remote as the district from which he came that
clanship more particularly exists. He had with him ten persons,
most of whom were his compadres. That is, the commandant
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was sponsored to one of the children of each. This
relationship is account very sacred in Brazil, and I believe
in all Roman Catholic countries. It is a bond of
brotherhood which permits the poor man to speak to his
superior with a kind of endearing familiarity, and unites them
in links of union, of which the non observance would
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be sacrilegious. The commandant made me several visits from Hessefi,
and after a delay of two months, he set off
on his return homewards. He was a man of most
determined spirit, whose name is respected all over the part
of the country which he inhabits. And this respect was
produced by his wealth and individual character, which brooks no insult.
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And yet there was a natural goodness in his nature
which broke forth very strongly when he showed me the
letters which he had received from his children, each of
them even to the youngest, having written to him. He
had lately lost his wife. His manner of speaking of
her was most affectionate. He told me that he had
some intention of taking orders as a secular priest. Soon
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after the Commandant left me. The following occurrence took place
hard by, which is characteristic of the state of the
country and similar to what frequently happens, although this of
what I am about to speak might have been avoided
if the actors in it had been a little older
and a little less hot headed. A young man who
resided in this neighborhood had been lately appointed to hold
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a military situation in the district of which he was
proud owing to which he had assumed an additional degree
of personal importance. He possessed a high spirited horse and
would sometimes turn him loose. Although he had no fenced
field into which he could put him. The animal soon
found out the cane land of an adjoining estate and
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destroyed considerably the young plants. From hence he would open
the gate of the field, which, from the manner that
the gates of plantations are usually made, was very easy
for him to do, and would come and offer battle
to some of the hard worked horses. This was often repeated,
notwithstanding that the animal had been caught each time and
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sent home with a request that this might not again occur. However,
at lest one of the beasts of the estate was
lamed by the horse and rendered unfit for service at
least for some time. The owner was much vexed, and
as one of his slaves was about to carry a
message to some distance, he told him to ride the
officer's horse. He went, and the owner was informed of this.
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He waylaid the slave and took the horse from him.
The planter heard the next day that the officer had
expressed many persons or wish to meet him. However no
notice was taken of this. As he rode on the
following morning to see his workmen, he saw the captain
in the path on horseback talking to a Mulatto man.
The planter spoke to him, saying that he wished to pass,
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which he could not do unless he moved, and mentioning
at the same time that he was informed of his
wish to see him. The captain spurred his horse towards
his adversary, attempting at the same moment to draw his sword,
but this he did not do with ease from some
entanglement of the belt. The other man drew his, which
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was enclosed in a walking stick, and rode up to him,
putting the point close to his breast, thus showing him
how easily he might, by this unforeseen advantage, have taking
his life. The Mulatto man had now recovered from his astonishment,
and ran in between the horses, striking them and driving
them asunder. They still remained for some minutes in high words,
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but the captain had not, as was afterwards well known,
supposed that the other was arm and therefore his art
or for the combat had now cooled considerably. The Indians
who were in my service occasionally requested leave to dance
in front of my dwelling. I usually complied, and was
often much amused. A large fire was made, that we
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might the better see what was going on, and that
the evening might be rendered more entertaining. I frequently invited
some of my neighbors. The dance commenced by two men
stepping forward and walking round and round, taking a circuit
of a few yards, one of them singing, or rather reciting,
in a low voice, some ditty of his own language,
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and the other playing upon a shrill pipe. And as
they went on, at intervals they gave a hop or
a skip. Soon a woman joined them and walked after them,
and then another man came forward in and so forth,
until a large ring was formed and the pace was quickened.
It was always expected that some liquor should be prepared
for them, and each of these persons, as they felt
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inclined to take any of it, stepped out of the
ring and returned again as soon as they had drank.
They continued dancing as long as any rum was produced.
The women as well as the men, relishing this their
means of inspiration, for as the quantities were increased, some
new song was introduced, The tones became louder, and their
articulation were rapid. The free people of Color, too would
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sometimes dance, but they only asked permission of me, and
held their merrymaking at the door of one of their
own huts. Their dances were like those of the African negroes.
A ring was formed, The guitar player sat down in
a corner and began a simple tune, which was accompanied
by some favorite song, of which the burthen was often repeated,
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and frequently some of the verses were extempt porting and
contained in decent illusions. One man stepped out into the
center of the ring and danced for some minutes, making
use of les chivious attitudes, until he singled out a
woman who then came forward and took her turn, and
movements not less indecent, and thus the amusement continued, sometimes
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until daybreak. The slaves would also request to be permitted
to dance. Their musical instruments are extremely rude. One of
them is a sort of drum, which is formed of
a sheepskin stretch over a piece of the hollow trunk
of a tree. And another is a large bow with
one string having half of a cocoanut shell or of
a small gorge strung upon it. This is placed against
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the abdomen, and the string is struck with a finger
or with a small bit of wood. When two holidays
followed each other uninterruptedly, the slaves would continue their noise
until daybreak. I'm now to enter upon an affair which
gave me much trouble. The lands belonging to the Negro
Brotherhood of Olinda were very conveniently situated for Jaguardi and
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for another plantation not far distant, which was owned by
an old man of color who harbored around him. A
numerous clan of relations and dependence was arranged that we
should rent these lands equally, but to prevent competition, one
of us only was to apply for them, and then
they were to be divided. The owner of the plantation
in question was to make the application, and I rested satisfied.
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But I was surprised to discover that I ran much
risk of remaining without any part of them. Therefore, I
began to make arrangements for obtaining them for myself. Whilst
the matter was yet in doubt, a person who was
under the protection of the rival plantation sent a number
of negroes to work upon some land which lay very
near to Jaguardipe. I sent a message to the owner
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of these men, purporting that the land was tenanted by
a person of my acquaintance, who yearly rented it from
the brotherhood, and therefore I requested him to direct that
his slave should retire. This he refused to do. Consequently,
I collected a number of my free workmen and rode
toward the spot in question. The matter had become serious,
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and as he was aware that if a scuffle ensued,
he might lose the service of a slave, whilst I,
who was accompanied by freemen, would not sustain any loss,
he gave the desired directions, and I returned home. I
gained my object of renting the lands through the interest
of some persons who were intimately acquainted with the principal
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officers of the brotherhood. I attended at the council table
of these black directors and heard the arguments foreign against
the policy of placing the whole of the property in
the hands of one person. However, the matter was decided
as soon as one of them rose up and reminded
the rest that the community was in debt, and that
the new tenant was prepared would one year's rent in advance.
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All objection was silenced by this speech, and the papers
were signed without any farther remark. The black gentleman came
down to Jagwadibe to put me in possession of the lands.
I'd invited several of my friends on this occasion, and
blacks and whites all sat down and ate together the
help of our lady of the Rosary, who was drank first,
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then that of the chief of the brotherhood, and of
the Lieutenant. These fellows amused us much for their politeness
to each other and to the white persons who were present.
Sat awkwardly upon them, but was displayed to show the
importance which they imagined themselves to possess. The Jewis or
chief of the brotherhood was a shoemaker at Olinda, and
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the rest were of the same rank in life or
or less. Possession was given me, and everything unpleasant seemed
to have subsided. When one night late, a Mulatto man
who resided at Jaguaribe knocked at my door and told
me that he had just arrived from a visit to
a neighboring cottage, and that on the way three men
had come out upon him and had commanded him to stop,
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But on seeing him alone, they had retreated. I had
had some intimation of what I was to expect, and
immediately supposed by whom these persons must have been sent,
and for whom the blow was intended. I called two
Indians and my faithful slave Manuel, and accompanied by these
in the Mulatto man who had given me the information,
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I set out towards the spot. They were gone, but
we pursued. However, before we reached the nearest plantation, we
heard the heavy gate of its field shut too. Therefore
it was useless to proceed farther, for the persons, whoever
they were, had reached a place of safety upon this
path resided the families of the neighborhood, with whom I
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was the most intimate, and it was well known that
I sometimes returned home at a late hour. This was
a turbulent district in which I had fixed my residence.
Some of the owners of the plantations around were perpetually squabbling,
and I had been led into the same way of proceeding. Indeed,
if I had not done so, I should have been
trampled upon. The slaves of Paulistas and of Timbeau were
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constantly at war, and the owners of the plantations of
Timbeau and Genipapeiro were likewise, with lawsuits always pending and
their dependents never easy. Some districts are an acquired estate
than others, but very few are totally without disturbance. And
there are few plantations in any part of the province
about the boundaries of the lands of which more than
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one lawsuit has not been entered into footnote. At the
distance of twenty leagues or more from Hesifi, there resided
formerly the Padre Pedro upon the sugar plantation of Agua
Zou or the Blue Water. He had obtained a grant
from the Crown of the surrounding lands of one square
league in extent, and had fixed his dwelling upon a
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high hill, the summit of which was only to be
reached by a serpentine road, which he had made with
great labor. The sugar works were likewise upon the hill,
and the field around the eminence was enclosed by a
deep and broad ditch and a thick hedge on the outside.
The situation was remote, and the adjoining country was in
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a very wild state. The woods were extensive and almost impenetrable.
The disposition of the priest was as wild as the
country in which he delighted to reside. All deserters from
the regiment of the line, and all persons who had
committed crimes in supporting the insulted honor of their families
in quarrels and provocations exciting momentary violence of passion were
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received by him, but he did not afford protection to
the thief. The fellows, who were harbored by him inhabited
the woods around the field, and some of them had
erected their huts upon the sides of the hill, thus
forming a line of communication, so that, with a whistle
or a conch, soon were assembled at his door. Of
forty or fifty men who were prepared to perform any
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service of whatever description he might name, because they well
knew that if they were bereft of his protection, his
aid would be given. In the law of support to
injure the priest or any of his satellites was followed
by destruction to the offending person. He was, however, in
the habit of sending many presents to the chief persons
in office, that no notice might be taken of his proceedings,
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for although the government might not be able to destroy
his feudal independence, still it might have shaken his power.
The priest was once sent for by a late governor
of the province. He obeyed and brought with him a
considerable number of the determined followers. He dismounted and ascended
the steps of the palace, leaving directions to his people
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who remained below, that no person should be permitted to
enter after him. The governor complained to him of his
avowed practice of harboring deserters, to which the priest replied
that he thought his excellency was aware of the inner
utility of speaking to him upon that subject, And having
said this, he immediately left the room, mounted his horse
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and proceeded homewards without molestation. Another anecdote of this strain.
Each man was communicated to me by a person who
had witnessed the transaction. Two officers of justice or bailiffs
arrived at Aguazoul and served a writ for debt upon him.
The priests received them with great calmness, but shortly afterwards
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he ordered his people to take these two men and
harness them in the mill, which was then at work,
in the place of two of the horses. Eight of
these are employed at the same time. He then ordered
that the work should go on, and that a Negro
boy should sit above and make these unfortunate fellows assist
in its movement. There they remained for some minutes until
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half dead with fatigue and fear. He turned them loose
and told them to relate to their employer the manner
in which they had been treated, threatening to do the
same to him if he could obtain possession of his person.
The priest had a considerable number of bloodhounds, which were
usually unchained, who were lying about the house, thus rendering
dangerous and approach to his dwelling. The animals were well trained,
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for a call from their master was sufficient to make
them lie still and allow the advance of a stranger.
This person died only a few years ago, But as
I have already elsewhere said, the time for such characters
in Brazil is fast going by. And footnote. I was
often reminded by many of my new acquaintances that every
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plantation ought to have a chaplain, And I was told
that without a doubt, all those persons who attend it
to your mass would contribute towards the payment of the
priest as his customary. I spoke to a young man
of this profession for the purpose, and he attended every
Sunday and holiday. But when he was dismissed at the
time I was preparing to leave the place, I was
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left to pay him entirely myself. Every one was poor
and unable to assist when the time of payment came.
This was only what I expected, but I thought it
was right to follow the usual custom of having mass
said regularly. On account of the slaves. In April, I
arranged with a tenant of the lands which lie to
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the eastward of Jaguaribe and are called Mangarape, to allow
me to turn loose upon them all my cattle during
the rainy season, for the field of the plantation was
not sufficiently large to support so great a number of
animals during the whole year, as the work which was
performed upon it required. The lands upon which I intended
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the cattle to remain are about one league in length,
and of about half the breath. Part of them are
under water in the rainy season, and in other places
they were covered with woods. But these were for the
most part to be entered even on horseback, owing to
the cattle feeding in them and beating down the brushwood.
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It was astonishing to see in how short a period
the cattle, which had been accustomed to labor, became wild
and comparatively fierce. I was in the habit of going
occasionally with another person, both of us being on horseback,
to collect the animals for the purpose of seeing that
none were missing. We had many hard chases after them,
and got many blows from the branches of the trees,
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et cetera. One of the oxen was in the habit
of invariably going into a bog when we appeared, and
after having proceeded to a certain distance, he would turn
round and look at us with apparent unconcern, and as
if he were conscious that we could not reach him.
This circumstance makes me recollect another which curred with one
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of my pack horses. The animal escaped from Jaguardibe and
was not for a long time heard of. But at
last I inquired of an old black man, who said
that he saw him every day. The horse fed upon
some lands which produced excellent grass, but the only water
in the neighborhood was to be obtained from a well
or hole, of which the entrance was narrow and the
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water considerably below the surface. The negro said that one
day he found the horse near to the well, but
unable to reach the water. He gave him some out
of a half gourd, which the old man carried with
him for the purpose of throwing water over his own
head in default of a better bath. The following day
the horses were there, and this continued for weeks. But
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although he had attempted to put his hand upon his neck,
the horse never allowed him to seize his mane. He
was caught at last by two men mounted on very
swift going horses, whom I sent for the purpose. A
short time after the cattle had been at Madenguape, I
agreed with an Indian to go and stay there for
the purpose of taking care of them. This man was
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in my debt for clothing and for a gold chain
which he had given to his wife. He came to
me a few days after his removal, asking leave to
go to his former place of residence, which was at
some distance, and to take his family with him. I
understood what this meant he would never return, and therefore
I answered that he might go if he thought proper,
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but must leave some pledge for the payment of the debt.
This he promised to do. Hoolioho had been with me
on my journey to Sierra, was again in my service.
He now displeased me exceedingly, for he, too, led astray
by this fellow, wished to leave me. Julio had been
accused of some petty thefts with which I now taxed him.
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He denied having committed them, and that he was innocent.
I verily believe, However I did not think so then. Consequently,
this circumstance in his wish to leave me with a
man whom I knew to be very unprincipled, for I
had lately had information respecting him from other quarters, and
above all the suspicion that he had come at an
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hour when few persons were about me, under the impression
that being alone I should be induced to accede to
their demands, caused us to part on bad terms. They
went their way towards Marengoape, and I had some hopes
that all would have continued quiet. However, in the afternoon,
about half an hour before the close of the day,
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the manager came to tell me that Francisco Jose, the
Indian who was in my debt, had passed through the field,
accompanied by his wife, Julio, and a number of other Indians.
Thus he had determined to go in defiance of any
right which I might have to his services, or to
demand payment of what he owed me, and in breach
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of promise given to me only a few hours before.
Several other laborers were also indebted to me. And if
this man was, without opposition permitted to make his own terms,
I knew not who might choose to follow his example.
My horse was brought out. I beckoned to Manoel, my
constant companion, In calling to some freemen who had returned
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from their work and were now talking together in a group,
I said, who follows me? A black carpenter, a white
brickmaker whom mulatto carrier, and a laborer of the same caste,
and likewise another slave stepped forwards. Thus, accompanied by six
able men, including Manuel, who were all on foot, I
set off on horseback at a round pace, knowing that
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in ascending the hill they would pass me. The hill
being surmounted, I again pushed on, and when I arrived
at the short but steep declivity which overlooks the plantation
of Inamun, I saw three men below and heard the
shrill Indian pipe. I looked back and saw that the
carpenter and brickmaker had alone kept pace with me, and
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I know not how they were able to do so,
I cried out yonder or some of the party. At
that same moment, Montche the brickmaker, fairly leaped down the
steep declivity and passed my horse. We descended upon the men,
but were disappointed in discovering that although they were Indians,
they were not those which we sought. Now, we waited
(30:46):
for the remainder of our party, who soon came up,
and we returned quietly by another path towards home. On
our arrival at the gate of Jiaguaribe. I was informed
that the party had quartered itself in a corner of
the field, in and about the hut of another Indian.
To this place we now directed our steps. Francisco Jose
(31:06):
himself came out to speak to me, and soon several
others placed themselves near to him. I sat on horseback
holding a parley, my men being on the other side
of me, until Antonio, the Mulatto carrier, he who had
been waylaid a long time before, came round and leaned
against the horse's neck, placing himself between me and the Indian.
(31:27):
I afterwards found out that he had observed that Francisco
Jose had a drawn knife, and Antonio judged that this
was intended against me or my horse, for the Indian
well knew that if he wounded me, it would probably
enable him to escape. Several persons belonging to the plantation
had now joined us, and the matter ended by the
Indian allowing himself to be taken without resistance and to
(31:51):
be put into the stocks. A party of Mulatos or
of Creole negroes would not have submitted this quietly. Late
at night, he paid, the debt was released, and I
saw no more of him for a considerable time. I
was now dismissing all those workmen who were not in
debt to me, and at last only a few persons
remained whose services I required and upon whose character I
(32:14):
could depend. It was very seldom that I visited Asife,
but when there was a necessity for so doing, I
took advantage of moonlight nights in preference to traveling in
the daytime, and was on these occasions accompanied by Manuel.
The wood of Mehruera, through which we usually passed, is
famous for the numerous stories of ghosts that wander and
(32:37):
a murders that had been committed in it. One night,
when the moon was not at a sufficient height to
afford a tolerably clear view of the objects around, we
were passing through this wood. I saw a figure before
me in the middle of the path, which bore the
appearance of a man standing still. I slackened my pace
and called out, as is customary, who comes there. But
(33:00):
before I could possibly have received an answer, Monuel brushed past,
saying let me see. However, I desired him to be quiet,
as no harm might be intended. On a nearer approach,
we discovered that an old stump of a tree had
caused this alarm. On another occasion, I sent the same
slave from Haesifi to Jaguaribe on foot early in the morning,
(33:22):
telling him that I intended to follow him. Leaving Hasefi
about eight o'clock in the evening, I was to be
accompanied by Zakarias, another slave whose courage was somewhat doubtful.
Manuel arrived at Jaguaribe and immediately prepared one of the
pack horses, saying to the manager that he was going
to meet his master, who was on the road alone.
For he said, Zacharias is nobody footnote, Zacharias nowing and
(33:48):
gain end footnote. The manager could not persuade him to
give up his intention, and therefore, as he knew that
the slave was much tired with his walk, he came himself.
I mention these anecdotes for the purpose of showing the
kind of man who usually followed me wherever I went.
Several months now succeeded each other without any disquietude. I
(34:12):
had another attack of argue during the rainy season, which
was however, much less violent than that of the preceding year.
I likewise met with an accident which had nearly proved fatal,
occasioned by a blow from the fore feet of a
high fed horse. He reared and struck me, but this
was done more in playfulness than with the intent to
(34:33):
do mischief. I had had some intention of leaving Jaguaribe,
owing to the turbulence of the neighborhood, to my ill health,
and to some disagreeable occurrences which had taken place between
my landlord and myself. However, as this would have been
very inconvenient, I resolved to stay. Notwithstanding all these and
other disadvantages. Preparations were made in the month of August
(34:57):
for setting the mill to work. The cane had not
attained this year its accustomed growth in most parts of
the country, and that which I possessed was particularly stinted
in size, for I had not commenced planting until it
was almost too late. Everything being ready towards the end
of the month, I sent for a priest to bless
the works. Unless the ceremony is performed, every person who
(35:21):
is to be employed about the mill, both freemen and slave,
would be afraid to proceed to his destined labor, and
if any accident happened, it would be ascribed to the
wrath of Heaven for this breach of religious observance. The
priest arrived and said Mass, after which we breakfasted, and
then proceeded to the mill. The manager and several other freemen,
(35:43):
and the negroes stood around the works. A quantity of
cain was placed ready to be thrust in between the rollers,
and the four negroes, whose part it was to feed
the mill, stood at their posts. Two lighted candles were
placed close to the rollers upon the platform which sustains
the cane, and a small image of Our Savior upon
(36:03):
the cross stood between them. The priest took his breviary
and read several prayers, and at stayed at places with
a small bunch of weeds prepared for the occasion, which
he dipped in a jug of holy water. He sprinkled
the mill, and the persons present. Some of the negro
sprang forwards to receive a good quantum of the sanctified water.
(36:26):
And then the master of the sugar boiling house led
the way to the portion of the works of which
he had the direction, and here there was another sprinkling.
When we returned to the part of the mill in
which the rollers stood, the priest took a large cane,
and I did the same. Then the signal being given,
the flood gate was open, and the works were soon
(36:47):
in motion, and according to rule, the two canes which
the priest and I held in our hands, were the
first to be ground. I'd heard much of this ceremony
from persons of the country, and I cannot avoid saying that,
although something of the ridiculous may by many persons be
attached to it, still I could not help feeling much
respect for it. The excitement of devout feelings among the slaves,
(37:11):
even of those feelings which are produced by the Roman
Catholic religion, cannot fail to be serviceable. And if men
are to exist as slaves, this is doubtless the religion
which is the best adapted to persons in a state
of subjection. Slavery and superstition are, however, two evils which,
when combined, are surely sufficient to cause the misery of
(37:32):
any country. The carts, the oxen and their drivers had
not received the priest's benediction. They arrived some time afterwards
bring loads of canes, and the carts were ornamented with
the longest that could be picked out, placed as flag staffs,
and bearing upon them handkerchiefs and ribbons. Each cart in
succession stood before the door of the dwelling house, and
(37:55):
the priests complied with the wishes of the drivers. There
was a tall, thin Mulatto man of about fifty five
years of age, of the name of Insanchi, who lived
near to Jaguaribe. He was in the habit when he
saw me about my own place of stopping, that we
might have some conversation. I liked much to hear his stories.
(38:15):
He said that now the country was becoming quieter, that
disturbances were less frequent than formerly, that there were now
no Valentoins, valiant ones, nor any comtas ergies green beads.
He explained to me the precise meaning of the former
and the species of beads which were intended to be
described by the latter. These Valentoins were men of all castes,
(38:38):
whose whole business consisted in seeking opportunities of quarreling. They
attended all festivals and fairs, and their desire was to
become so famous for courage as to render the knowledge
of their presence on these occasions sufficient to keep in
awe any other individuals who might wish to create disturbances,
considering themselves privileged to revenge their own and their friend's injuries.
(39:03):
But they would not allow of any quarrel in which
they were not concerned. Two roads crossed each other at
about the distance of one leave from Jaguaribe, and at
this spot Vicenti told me that some of these men
often stood, obliging all passers by either to fight them
or to dismount, take off their hats and lead the
horses whilst they were in sight. These men wore round
(39:26):
their neck strings of green beads, which had either come
from the coast of Africa, bearing the wonderful property of
conveying in safety their possessors through all descriptions of perils,
or were charmed by manding gueros African sorcerers who had
been brought over to Brazil as slaves, and in secret
continued the prohibited practice of imparting this virtue to them.
(39:51):
The men were accompanied by dogs of extraordinary size and activity,
and possessing courage equal to that of their masters. These
animals had been taught to drink rum, which they would
do at their owner's command, giving to all beholders an
opinion of some supernatural qualities having bestowed upon them. Vicentia
had been acquainted with some of these men, and was
(40:12):
firmly persuaded of the virtues of the green beads, and
that the dogs imbted from their masters certain qualities which
made them superior to all the rest of their species.
The expression of the man's countenance changed entirely when he
commenced the relation of these stories. It was at all
times harsh, but now there was imparted to it a
(40:34):
considerable degree of unpleasant wildness. When I expressed my doubts
of the efficacy of the beads against a musketball, well directed.
His anger rose, but there was pity mingled with it,
for one who had not seen those times of wonder.
He seemed to be glad that they were over and
that all was now quiet. But yet he cherished a
(40:56):
sort of regard for men whose lives had been passed
in deeds of danger, for notwithstanding the charms such he
considered them to be, the death of these men was
generally violent, owing, as Vicentchi said, to some unfortunate removal
of the beads from the person of him whose destined
hour was arrived. It was not, however, from this person
(41:18):
alone that I heard accounts of the Valentoines. Footnote a
man of large property being much provoked at some outrage
which had been committed by one of these Valentoynes, who
was a white man, had said at his own home
that when he met the man, he would horsewhip him.
This was repeated to the outlaw, and shortly afterwards they
(41:39):
met accidentally in one of the narrow paths in the neighborhood.
The valentine was well armed with musket, sword and a knife.
He requested the gentleman to stop, as he had something
to say to him. The outlaw asked him for a
pinch of snuff, and then offered his own box, from
which a pinch was in like manner taken. He then
(42:01):
mentioned the injurious words which had been repeated to him.
The unfortunate offender directly imagined what would follow, and therefore
set spurs to his horse. But the road was without
any bend for some distance. The valentine knelt down upon
one knee and fired with the effect which he wished for.
He quietly walked on along the same road, telling the
(42:23):
whole story of his meeting. At the first village through
which he passed. This man was at last taken, tried
and hanged it by Yea through the very great exertions
of the brother of the person whom he had murdered.
He could not be executed at Pernambuco because he was
a white man. The transaction occurred at a short distance
from Jaguaribe about fifteen years ago and footnote. There was
(42:48):
an old Creole Negro residing in the neighborhood of Jaguaribe,
whose disposition led him to explore all the woods for
miles round in search of game. He preferred this manner
of attaining subsistence to that of daily labor with the
hull or bill hook. He was acquainted with the situations
in which the best timber was to be found, and could,
(43:10):
in many instances name the exact spot upon which some
particular tree stood, which was required for any given purpose.
This man often came to Jaguaribe, and on these occasions
I usually called him into the house to hear his
stories whilst I sat my hammock smoking. He was fond
of tales of ghosts and Manjingero's. The latter are famous,
(43:33):
among other feats, for handling poisonous snakes and can, according
to his account and that of many other persons, by
peculiar noises or tunes, called these reptiles from their hole,
and make them assemble around him. These sorcerers professed to
render inoxious the bites of snakes to persons who submit
to their charms and ceremonies. One of the modes which
(43:56):
is adopted for this purpose is that of allowing a
tame snake crawl over the head, face, and shoulders of
the person who is to be corrado jicobras cured of snakes,
as they term it, The owner of the snake repeats
a number of words during the operation of which the meaning,
if they contain any, is only known to the initiated.
(44:18):
The rattlesnake is said to be, above all other species,
the most susceptible of attention to the tunes of the Mandingueros.
The above accounts I should not have related upon the
authority of one or two persons. I've heard them repeat
it by several individuals, and even some men of education
have spoken of the reputed efficacy of the tame snakes
(44:38):
of the Mandingueros, as if they were somewhat staggered on
their disbelief of it. The reputation of the contre vergs
is firmly established in the faith of those persons of
the lower ranks who have heard of them. These men
certainly do play strange tricks, very dexterously. I've not been
so much inconvenienced by snakes as I have, I imagine
(45:00):
I should. I had seen several different kinds In going
through the woods, and particularly in that which leads from
Jaguaribi to Pallistas. The path through it is not much frequented,
and therefore the snakes have become bolder crossing the road
or running up a bank. As I passed along one afternoon,
I had a visit with which I could have well dispensed.
(45:21):
I happened to look up whilst sitting in my hammock,
and saw one of these reptiles lying quite still upon
the top of the wall of the room, in the
opening which is formed by the supporters of the roof
that rest upon it. I seized a pike and ran
into the snake, thus riveting it to one of the
beams of the roof, whilst I called to some person
to assist me in killing it. But its writhing was
(45:43):
so violent that it soon liberated itself and fell from
a wall on the outside, where several persons waited for it.
The people who were present did not know whether it
was the kaninana or papo oval egg eater species, as
these are much like to each other. The former is
a count it venomous, and the latter is by many
(46:04):
persons supposed to be harmless. Both are of a gray
color above and yellow underneath. The snake which we killed
was about four feet in length. The kinanana is likewise
sometimes called the flying snake, as it has the power
of springing to a considerable distance. It usually lies in
twining the branch of a tree, and from thence darts
(46:25):
down upon those who may molest it. The cobra dagua
or water snake, was often to be seen in the
rivulet which runs just below the dwelling house of Jaguaribe.
It is sometimes eight or ten feet in length and
of the thickness of a man's arm. The color of
the back is a bright black, and the belly is
of a pale yellow. The lower ranks of people say
(46:48):
that it is poisonous, but I have heard this contradicted.
The jaradasa snake is from six to nine feet in length.
The back is of a dusky yellow, and the belly
is white. The point of the tail is black, the
mouth is red, and it has two black and white
streaks upon the throat. The Suru cukou snake is of
(47:09):
nearly the same size as the jarra asa. It is
black and yellow. This reptile is attracted by fire, and
on this account would be more dangerous to travelers than
any other description of snake if its attention were not
so totally directed to the fire as to give time
an opportunity of killing it. It has, as I was
(47:31):
informed by many persons of credibility, been known to spring
off the ground at a person carrying a flambeaux. The
Suru cuckou and the jara asa are known to be poisonous.
The sipos snake is so called from its likeness to
the thin and flexible shoots of the plants which bear
this name. It is said to be poisonous. Charms are
(47:53):
often supposed to destroy the venom of snakes and to
produce consequently the recovery of the person who who has
been bitten by one of these reptiles. Oil is sometimes
used as a remedy, being given in considerable quantities, which
are increased or diminished according to the quality of the oil.
Rum is likewise administered so as to produce intoxication. I
(48:16):
have also seen a small plant which is known under
the name of erbacoprera. Wherever I have seen it, the
plant has been carefully preserved in a pot. This would
denote that it is not indigenous to the part of
the country in which I was, and indeed I was
told that it had been brought from Africa. I never
saw its flowers. The leaves of it are small and
(48:37):
heart shaped. The stem is of four or five inches
in length, and of a deep red color, which becomes
greenish towards the points of the branches. These are long,
crooked and spread horizontally. The leaves and the softer branches
are bruised and are applied to the wound, and the
juice which is extracted from them, when mixed with rum
or water, is drank by the patient. I do not
(49:00):
vouch for its success, but its name must, I should imagine,
have been acquired by its reputation. The mill was yet
at work in September when the owner of the place
applied to me to leave it, as it was convenient
for him to come down from another plantation of which
he was the owner and resided at Jaguaribe from its
vicinity to Hasifi. I agreed to this, but did not
(49:23):
wish that he should remove until I was about to
leave Jaguaribe. However, one morning a young man who was
related to and employed by him, came to my house
and told me that, by order from his kinsmen, he had,
accompanied by a gang of negroes, taken possession during the
night of the cottage, which was situated upon the shelf
of the hill. I expressed my surprise at this conduct,
(49:47):
and set a good deal upon the subject. He of
course returned for answer that he had only acted according
to the orders which he had received. The principal objection
which I had to the premature removal arose from the
general turbulent character of the slaves of this man, and
from the frequency of quarrels between the dependents of those
(50:07):
persons whose dwellings were so near to each other as
ours had now become. Several extremely disagreeable occurrences took place,
as I had feared would be the case, before I
could conveniently remove. But as these proceeded, more particularly from
the peculiarity of our situation, I do not think that
a minute account of them would be interesting. These anecdotes
(50:31):
could not be given in illustration of the general state
of manners in the country. Suffice it to say that
I made a visit to the owner of the plantation
of Amparo in the island of Itamarasa, upon whose lands
I agreed to plant sugar canes and to share with
him their produce, as is a usual practice upon sugar estates.
(50:52):
In the beginning of November eighteen thirteen, I set my
manager to prepare a residence for me at the town
of Conception in the island, and I removed to that
place in the course of the following month. End of
Section eighteen. End of Volume one and of Travels in
Brazil by Henry Coster
Section eighteen of Travels in Brazil, Volume one by Henry Coster.
The Sleepovox recording is in the public domain. Chapter twelve,
Journey to uninya continuation of my residence at Jagaribe Negro,
Brotherhood of Olinda blessing the sugar works Mandinguerus in Valentoine's
(00:27):
About the middle of January eighteen thirteen, I went to
stay for some days at the cottage of an acquaintance
who resided upon the plain of Barbayllu, for the purpose
of purchasing a few horses. This place is near to
the village of Montero, but it is on the opposite
side of the river. Barballo is a plain of some
(00:48):
extent upon which cattle are turned out to feed. The
soil of it is a stiff, dark colored clay, and
the grass which grows upon it is of a coarse species.
This becomes quite dry during the summer months, and when
in this state it is set on fire, that the
tender shoots which again spring up, may serve as food
(01:09):
for the animals that are to graze upon it. The
fire will run along the ground, urged by a fresh breeze,
will sometimes contract, and at others spread each way, presenting
to the beholders a fiery wall. The sight is grand.
It is upon a grand scale, which gives it a
terrific appearance. The inhabitants of the skirts of this plain
(01:31):
carefully preserve a circle around their houses and gardens clear
of vegetation, apprehensive of some inconsiderate traveler who may chance
to light his pipe as he goes along and throw away,
unextinguished the fire stick of which he has made use.
The person with whom I was staying persuade me to
(01:51):
ride with him to the sugar plantation of Unina, which
is distant six leagues to the southward of Barbayou. He
described the place is being very beautiful than I consented.
This was the only opportunity which conveniently offered itself of
seeing the country in this direction. But I much regret
not having made greater exertions to visit the southern districts
(02:14):
of Pernambuco. We passed through the hamlet and by the
parish church of the Varzaia. A considerable extent of countryes
known under this name, containing some of the finest cane
lands of the province, which are owned by men of
wealth who know the value of what they possess, and
consequently the plantations are in a flourishing condition. The Varzaia
(02:36):
is famous in Pernambuca history as the site of a
great deal of fighting. Camaraghibe, which is in the vicinity,
or rather a part of the Varzaia, and is spoken
of by the historian of that country, is now a
flourishing sugar plantation. Footnote. I am not certain of the
(02:56):
situation of the Montchidas Tabocas, where one of the chief
battles was fought between the Portuguese and the Dutch in
sixteen forty five History of Brazil, Volume two, page one
o eight. There is now a plantation called Tabocas, which
is owned by one of the chiefs of the Cavalcante family.
But as I was acquainted with him and several other
(03:18):
persons of the same description, I think the circumstance would
have been mentioned if this had been the place and
footnote we reached the sugar plantation of Kamasari, belonging to
the Carmelite Friars. It is in high order, that is,
the slaves and cattle are in good condition, and everything
upon it appeared cheerful, but it does not yield so
(03:41):
much produce as it might if the strength of the
laborers was pushed to the utmost. I looked into the mill,
which is turned by water, and saw some handsome mulatto
girls feeding the mill with cane. They were dressed in
petticoats of printed cotton and smocks of cambric muslin, and
they wore upon their necks in an their ears gold ornaments.
(04:02):
They were singing in parts very tolerably. The difference between
the plantations which belong to convents and those which are
possessed by individuals who reside upon them and have a
direct interest in every trifling increase or decrease at the
gains is very striking. The estates of Friars are worked
almost exclusively by negroes who have been born upon them.
(04:25):
Everything goes on easily and regularly. If much is made,
the better satisfied is the chief for the time being.
But if on the contrary, little is obtained, still the
affairs of the community go on. We proceed it, and
at some distance beyond descend it from a high hill
into a narrow valley which was completely imbosomed by the
(04:45):
eminences around, and so enclosed that we appeared to intrude
upon its inhabitants in crossing the spot of their retirement.
The grass upon the hills was dry, but all below
was yet in full health. At length we arrived at
the plantation of Unina, which is situated upon an extensive
field composed of uneven ground and watered by several springs.
(05:09):
The mill is turned by oxen, which is a late improvement,
horses being usually employed where water cannot be obtained. We
dined with the owner and he returned with us to
Barbayou in the afternoon. I was much delighted with the
day's amusement. This was the most beautiful part of the
country which I visited. Taken as a whole. The hills
(05:30):
and valleys are not high or extensive, but they are
decidedly marked here. Cultivation formed a considerable feature in the country.
The cane lands were extensive, and the mills for its
manufacture into sugar numerous. On my return from Unina, I
wished still to remain at Barbayo for a few days,
and therefore the owner of the cottage at which I
(05:52):
was staying went on to Jagowaribe to remain there until
I could join him. I stayed with Manoel. Then one morning,
Manuel had gone to cut a bundle of grass, and
on his return met with an old acquaintance, a cree
ole negro. They quarreled by the way, and as they
came near to where I resided, the matter became serious
(06:14):
and blows were given and received, both of the men
being armed with long poles. Simau saw this, took up
a drawn sword, which was lying upon a chair, and
ran out to assist his comrade. I went out to
put a stop to the business, and discovered that Simaud
had cut an enormous gash in the fellow's head. The
(06:35):
man was brought into the cottage and his wound was dressed.
An acquaintance of mine happened now to come in, and
he took charge of the negro and carried him home
to his master. The negro was taking a load of
grass for the horses of the governor, who resided at Montero,
which is within half a mile at the side of
these transactions. Notice would have been taken of the affair immediately,
(06:58):
owing to the circumstances of the negro being employed for
the governor. If his Excellency had not been informed that
the offending negroes. For such I consider mine to have
been belonged to an Englishman, upon which no more inquiry
was made, And as it was discovered that the master
had nothing to do with the effray, no cognizance was
(07:19):
taken of the matter by the military power. If the
owner of the wounded slave had chosen so to do,
he might have put me to much expense and trouble,
for he might have accused my negroes of assaulting his
But the law of itself seldom does anything. Even in
cases of murder. The prosecutor or accuser as he is called,
(07:40):
has it had his option to bring on the trial
or not. If he can be bribed or otherwise persuaded
to give up the accusation, the matter drops to the ground.
Thus the spirit of laws changed from the principle of
bringing an offender to justice for the general good of
society to that of prosecuting and revenge for the which
(08:00):
he has committed against an individual. Soon after my return
to Jaguaribe, I was one evening surprised at the arrival
of a white man who was habited in uniform of
blue and red and accompanied by a great number of
loaded horses and of men who were dressed in leather
after the manner of the Serton. He delivered me a
(08:21):
letter which I discovered not to be for me, but
for an Englishman who was occasionally with me. However, I
of course requested him to stay and gave directions for
the accommodation of his followers. He was a commandant from
the interior just at one hundred thirty leagues in the
back settlements of the province of Paraiba, at the foot
(08:42):
of the Sejato Tescheia. He had put on board of
Jangadas at Paraiba a considerable quantity of cotton which he
had brought down from his estate, and he was now
traveling to Hasifi for the purpose of receiving him and
a purchasing necessaries, or rather luckies for his family, to
which he appeared to be extremely attached. We soon became intimate,
(09:05):
and when he proceeded to Hassife at the close of
a few days, he left some of his men and
horses at Jagoribe. It is among the inhabitants of places
so remote as the district from which he came that
clanship more particularly exists. He had with him ten persons,
most of whom were his compadres. That is, the commandant
(09:26):
was sponsored to one of the children of each. This
relationship is account very sacred in Brazil, and I believe
in all Roman Catholic countries. It is a bond of
brotherhood which permits the poor man to speak to his
superior with a kind of endearing familiarity, and unites them
in links of union, of which the non observance would
(09:47):
be sacrilegious. The commandant made me several visits from Hessefi,
and after a delay of two months, he set off
on his return homewards. He was a man of most
determined spirit, whose name is respected all over the part
of the country which he inhabits. And this respect was
produced by his wealth and individual character, which brooks no insult.
(10:10):
And yet there was a natural goodness in his nature
which broke forth very strongly when he showed me the
letters which he had received from his children, each of
them even to the youngest, having written to him. He
had lately lost his wife. His manner of speaking of
her was most affectionate. He told me that he had
some intention of taking orders as a secular priest. Soon
(10:32):
after the Commandant left me. The following occurrence took place
hard by, which is characteristic of the state of the
country and similar to what frequently happens, although this of
what I am about to speak might have been avoided
if the actors in it had been a little older
and a little less hot headed. A young man who
resided in this neighborhood had been lately appointed to hold
(10:55):
a military situation in the district of which he was
proud owing to which he had assumed an additional degree
of personal importance. He possessed a high spirited horse and
would sometimes turn him loose. Although he had no fenced
field into which he could put him. The animal soon
found out the cane land of an adjoining estate and
(11:16):
destroyed considerably the young plants. From hence he would open
the gate of the field, which, from the manner that
the gates of plantations are usually made, was very easy
for him to do, and would come and offer battle
to some of the hard worked horses. This was often repeated,
notwithstanding that the animal had been caught each time and
(11:38):
sent home with a request that this might not again occur. However,
at lest one of the beasts of the estate was
lamed by the horse and rendered unfit for service at
least for some time. The owner was much vexed, and
as one of his slaves was about to carry a
message to some distance, he told him to ride the
officer's horse. He went, and the owner was informed of this.
(12:01):
He waylaid the slave and took the horse from him.
The planter heard the next day that the officer had
expressed many persons or wish to meet him. However no
notice was taken of this. As he rode on the
following morning to see his workmen, he saw the captain
in the path on horseback talking to a Mulatto man.
The planter spoke to him, saying that he wished to pass,
(12:23):
which he could not do unless he moved, and mentioning
at the same time that he was informed of his
wish to see him. The captain spurred his horse towards
his adversary, attempting at the same moment to draw his sword,
but this he did not do with ease from some
entanglement of the belt. The other man drew his, which
(12:44):
was enclosed in a walking stick, and rode up to him,
putting the point close to his breast, thus showing him
how easily he might, by this unforeseen advantage, have taking
his life. The Mulatto man had now recovered from his astonishment,
and ran in between the horses, striking them and driving
them asunder. They still remained for some minutes in high words,
(13:06):
but the captain had not, as was afterwards well known,
supposed that the other was arm and therefore his art
or for the combat had now cooled considerably. The Indians
who were in my service occasionally requested leave to dance
in front of my dwelling. I usually complied, and was
often much amused. A large fire was made, that we
(13:27):
might the better see what was going on, and that
the evening might be rendered more entertaining. I frequently invited
some of my neighbors. The dance commenced by two men
stepping forward and walking round and round, taking a circuit
of a few yards, one of them singing, or rather reciting,
in a low voice, some ditty of his own language,
(13:48):
and the other playing upon a shrill pipe. And as
they went on, at intervals they gave a hop or
a skip. Soon a woman joined them and walked after them,
and then another man came forward in and so forth,
until a large ring was formed and the pace was quickened.
It was always expected that some liquor should be prepared
for them, and each of these persons, as they felt
(14:10):
inclined to take any of it, stepped out of the
ring and returned again as soon as they had drank.
They continued dancing as long as any rum was produced.
The women as well as the men, relishing this their
means of inspiration, for as the quantities were increased, some
new song was introduced, The tones became louder, and their
articulation were rapid. The free people of Color, too would
(14:34):
sometimes dance, but they only asked permission of me, and
held their merrymaking at the door of one of their
own huts. Their dances were like those of the African negroes.
A ring was formed, The guitar player sat down in
a corner and began a simple tune, which was accompanied
by some favorite song, of which the burthen was often repeated,
(14:55):
and frequently some of the verses were extempt porting and
contained in decent illusions. One man stepped out into the
center of the ring and danced for some minutes, making
use of les chivious attitudes, until he singled out a
woman who then came forward and took her turn, and
movements not less indecent, and thus the amusement continued, sometimes
(15:15):
until daybreak. The slaves would also request to be permitted
to dance. Their musical instruments are extremely rude. One of
them is a sort of drum, which is formed of
a sheepskin stretch over a piece of the hollow trunk
of a tree. And another is a large bow with
one string having half of a cocoanut shell or of
a small gorge strung upon it. This is placed against
(15:37):
the abdomen, and the string is struck with a finger
or with a small bit of wood. When two holidays
followed each other uninterruptedly, the slaves would continue their noise
until daybreak. I'm now to enter upon an affair which
gave me much trouble. The lands belonging to the Negro
Brotherhood of Olinda were very conveniently situated for Jaguardi and
(16:00):
for another plantation not far distant, which was owned by
an old man of color who harbored around him. A
numerous clan of relations and dependence was arranged that we
should rent these lands equally, but to prevent competition, one
of us only was to apply for them, and then
they were to be divided. The owner of the plantation
in question was to make the application, and I rested satisfied.
(16:24):
But I was surprised to discover that I ran much
risk of remaining without any part of them. Therefore, I
began to make arrangements for obtaining them for myself. Whilst
the matter was yet in doubt, a person who was
under the protection of the rival plantation sent a number
of negroes to work upon some land which lay very
near to Jaguardipe. I sent a message to the owner
(16:47):
of these men, purporting that the land was tenanted by
a person of my acquaintance, who yearly rented it from
the brotherhood, and therefore I requested him to direct that
his slave should retire. This he refused to do. Consequently,
I collected a number of my free workmen and rode
toward the spot in question. The matter had become serious,
(17:07):
and as he was aware that if a scuffle ensued,
he might lose the service of a slave, whilst I,
who was accompanied by freemen, would not sustain any loss,
he gave the desired directions, and I returned home. I
gained my object of renting the lands through the interest
of some persons who were intimately acquainted with the principal
(17:27):
officers of the brotherhood. I attended at the council table
of these black directors and heard the arguments foreign against
the policy of placing the whole of the property in
the hands of one person. However, the matter was decided
as soon as one of them rose up and reminded
the rest that the community was in debt, and that
the new tenant was prepared would one year's rent in advance.
(17:50):
All objection was silenced by this speech, and the papers
were signed without any farther remark. The black gentleman came
down to Jagwadibe to put me in possession of the lands.
I'd invited several of my friends on this occasion, and
blacks and whites all sat down and ate together the
help of our lady of the Rosary, who was drank first,
(18:11):
then that of the chief of the brotherhood, and of
the Lieutenant. These fellows amused us much for their politeness
to each other and to the white persons who were present.
Sat awkwardly upon them, but was displayed to show the
importance which they imagined themselves to possess. The Jewis or
chief of the brotherhood was a shoemaker at Olinda, and
(18:32):
the rest were of the same rank in life or
or less. Possession was given me, and everything unpleasant seemed
to have subsided. When one night late, a Mulatto man
who resided at Jaguaribe knocked at my door and told
me that he had just arrived from a visit to
a neighboring cottage, and that on the way three men
had come out upon him and had commanded him to stop,
(18:55):
But on seeing him alone, they had retreated. I had
had some intimation of what I was to expect, and
immediately supposed by whom these persons must have been sent,
and for whom the blow was intended. I called two
Indians and my faithful slave Manuel, and accompanied by these
in the Mulatto man who had given me the information,
(19:15):
I set out towards the spot. They were gone, but
we pursued. However, before we reached the nearest plantation, we
heard the heavy gate of its field shut too. Therefore
it was useless to proceed farther, for the persons, whoever
they were, had reached a place of safety upon this
path resided the families of the neighborhood, with whom I
(19:35):
was the most intimate, and it was well known that
I sometimes returned home at a late hour. This was
a turbulent district in which I had fixed my residence.
Some of the owners of the plantations around were perpetually squabbling,
and I had been led into the same way of proceeding. Indeed,
if I had not done so, I should have been
trampled upon. The slaves of Paulistas and of Timbeau were
(20:00):
constantly at war, and the owners of the plantations of
Timbeau and Genipapeiro were likewise, with lawsuits always pending and
their dependents never easy. Some districts are an acquired estate
than others, but very few are totally without disturbance. And
there are few plantations in any part of the province
about the boundaries of the lands of which more than
(20:21):
one lawsuit has not been entered into footnote. At the
distance of twenty leagues or more from Hesifi, there resided
formerly the Padre Pedro upon the sugar plantation of Agua
Zou or the Blue Water. He had obtained a grant
from the Crown of the surrounding lands of one square
league in extent, and had fixed his dwelling upon a
(20:43):
high hill, the summit of which was only to be
reached by a serpentine road, which he had made with
great labor. The sugar works were likewise upon the hill,
and the field around the eminence was enclosed by a
deep and broad ditch and a thick hedge on the outside.
The situation was remote, and the adjoining country was in
(21:04):
a very wild state. The woods were extensive and almost impenetrable.
The disposition of the priest was as wild as the
country in which he delighted to reside. All deserters from
the regiment of the line, and all persons who had
committed crimes in supporting the insulted honor of their families
in quarrels and provocations exciting momentary violence of passion were
(21:26):
received by him, but he did not afford protection to
the thief. The fellows, who were harbored by him inhabited
the woods around the field, and some of them had
erected their huts upon the sides of the hill, thus
forming a line of communication, so that, with a whistle
or a conch, soon were assembled at his door. Of
forty or fifty men who were prepared to perform any
(21:49):
service of whatever description he might name, because they well
knew that if they were bereft of his protection, his
aid would be given. In the law of support to
injure the priest or any of his satellites was followed
by destruction to the offending person. He was, however, in
the habit of sending many presents to the chief persons
in office, that no notice might be taken of his proceedings,
(22:13):
for although the government might not be able to destroy
his feudal independence, still it might have shaken his power.
The priest was once sent for by a late governor
of the province. He obeyed and brought with him a
considerable number of the determined followers. He dismounted and ascended
the steps of the palace, leaving directions to his people
(22:33):
who remained below, that no person should be permitted to
enter after him. The governor complained to him of his
avowed practice of harboring deserters, to which the priest replied
that he thought his excellency was aware of the inner
utility of speaking to him upon that subject, And having
said this, he immediately left the room, mounted his horse
(22:54):
and proceeded homewards without molestation. Another anecdote of this strain.
Each man was communicated to me by a person who
had witnessed the transaction. Two officers of justice or bailiffs
arrived at Aguazoul and served a writ for debt upon him.
The priests received them with great calmness, but shortly afterwards
(23:15):
he ordered his people to take these two men and
harness them in the mill, which was then at work,
in the place of two of the horses. Eight of
these are employed at the same time. He then ordered
that the work should go on, and that a Negro
boy should sit above and make these unfortunate fellows assist
in its movement. There they remained for some minutes until
(23:36):
half dead with fatigue and fear. He turned them loose
and told them to relate to their employer the manner
in which they had been treated, threatening to do the
same to him if he could obtain possession of his person.
The priest had a considerable number of bloodhounds, which were
usually unchained, who were lying about the house, thus rendering
dangerous and approach to his dwelling. The animals were well trained,
(24:00):
for a call from their master was sufficient to make
them lie still and allow the advance of a stranger.
This person died only a few years ago, But as
I have already elsewhere said, the time for such characters
in Brazil is fast going by. And footnote. I was
often reminded by many of my new acquaintances that every
(24:21):
plantation ought to have a chaplain, And I was told
that without a doubt, all those persons who attend it
to your mass would contribute towards the payment of the
priest as his customary. I spoke to a young man
of this profession for the purpose, and he attended every
Sunday and holiday. But when he was dismissed at the
time I was preparing to leave the place, I was
(24:43):
left to pay him entirely myself. Every one was poor
and unable to assist when the time of payment came.
This was only what I expected, but I thought it
was right to follow the usual custom of having mass
said regularly. On account of the slaves. In April, I
arranged with a tenant of the lands which lie to
(25:04):
the eastward of Jaguaribe and are called Mangarape, to allow
me to turn loose upon them all my cattle during
the rainy season, for the field of the plantation was
not sufficiently large to support so great a number of
animals during the whole year, as the work which was
performed upon it required. The lands upon which I intended
(25:25):
the cattle to remain are about one league in length,
and of about half the breath. Part of them are
under water in the rainy season, and in other places
they were covered with woods. But these were for the
most part to be entered even on horseback, owing to
the cattle feeding in them and beating down the brushwood.
(25:45):
It was astonishing to see in how short a period
the cattle, which had been accustomed to labor, became wild
and comparatively fierce. I was in the habit of going
occasionally with another person, both of us being on horseback,
to collect the animals for the purpose of seeing that
none were missing. We had many hard chases after them,
and got many blows from the branches of the trees,
(26:07):
et cetera. One of the oxen was in the habit
of invariably going into a bog when we appeared, and
after having proceeded to a certain distance, he would turn
round and look at us with apparent unconcern, and as
if he were conscious that we could not reach him.
This circumstance makes me recollect another which curred with one
(26:28):
of my pack horses. The animal escaped from Jaguardibe and
was not for a long time heard of. But at
last I inquired of an old black man, who said
that he saw him every day. The horse fed upon
some lands which produced excellent grass, but the only water
in the neighborhood was to be obtained from a well
or hole, of which the entrance was narrow and the
(26:50):
water considerably below the surface. The negro said that one
day he found the horse near to the well, but
unable to reach the water. He gave him some out
of a half gourd, which the old man carried with
him for the purpose of throwing water over his own
head in default of a better bath. The following day
the horses were there, and this continued for weeks. But
(27:13):
although he had attempted to put his hand upon his neck,
the horse never allowed him to seize his mane. He
was caught at last by two men mounted on very
swift going horses, whom I sent for the purpose. A
short time after the cattle had been at Madenguape, I
agreed with an Indian to go and stay there for
the purpose of taking care of them. This man was
(27:35):
in my debt for clothing and for a gold chain
which he had given to his wife. He came to
me a few days after his removal, asking leave to
go to his former place of residence, which was at
some distance, and to take his family with him. I
understood what this meant he would never return, and therefore
I answered that he might go if he thought proper,
(27:57):
but must leave some pledge for the payment of the debt.
This he promised to do. Hoolioho had been with me
on my journey to Sierra, was again in my service.
He now displeased me exceedingly, for he, too, led astray
by this fellow, wished to leave me. Julio had been
accused of some petty thefts with which I now taxed him.
(28:19):
He denied having committed them, and that he was innocent.
I verily believe, However I did not think so then. Consequently,
this circumstance in his wish to leave me with a
man whom I knew to be very unprincipled, for I
had lately had information respecting him from other quarters, and
above all the suspicion that he had come at an
(28:39):
hour when few persons were about me, under the impression
that being alone I should be induced to accede to
their demands, caused us to part on bad terms. They
went their way towards Marengoape, and I had some hopes
that all would have continued quiet. However, in the afternoon,
about half an hour before the close of the day,
(28:59):
the manager came to tell me that Francisco Jose, the
Indian who was in my debt, had passed through the field,
accompanied by his wife, Julio, and a number of other Indians.
Thus he had determined to go in defiance of any
right which I might have to his services, or to
demand payment of what he owed me, and in breach
(29:19):
of promise given to me only a few hours before.
Several other laborers were also indebted to me. And if
this man was, without opposition permitted to make his own terms,
I knew not who might choose to follow his example.
My horse was brought out. I beckoned to Manoel, my
constant companion, In calling to some freemen who had returned
(29:42):
from their work and were now talking together in a group,
I said, who follows me? A black carpenter, a white
brickmaker whom mulatto carrier, and a laborer of the same caste,
and likewise another slave stepped forwards. Thus, accompanied by six
able men, including Manuel, who were all on foot, I
set off on horseback at a round pace, knowing that
(30:04):
in ascending the hill they would pass me. The hill
being surmounted, I again pushed on, and when I arrived
at the short but steep declivity which overlooks the plantation
of Inamun, I saw three men below and heard the
shrill Indian pipe. I looked back and saw that the
carpenter and brickmaker had alone kept pace with me, and
(30:25):
I know not how they were able to do so,
I cried out yonder or some of the party. At
that same moment, Montche the brickmaker, fairly leaped down the
steep declivity and passed my horse. We descended upon the men,
but were disappointed in discovering that although they were Indians,
they were not those which we sought. Now, we waited
(30:46):
for the remainder of our party, who soon came up,
and we returned quietly by another path towards home. On
our arrival at the gate of Jiaguaribe. I was informed
that the party had quartered itself in a corner of
the field, in and about the hut of another Indian.
To this place we now directed our steps. Francisco Jose
(31:06):
himself came out to speak to me, and soon several
others placed themselves near to him. I sat on horseback
holding a parley, my men being on the other side
of me, until Antonio, the Mulatto carrier, he who had
been waylaid a long time before, came round and leaned
against the horse's neck, placing himself between me and the Indian.
(31:27):
I afterwards found out that he had observed that Francisco
Jose had a drawn knife, and Antonio judged that this
was intended against me or my horse, for the Indian
well knew that if he wounded me, it would probably
enable him to escape. Several persons belonging to the plantation
had now joined us, and the matter ended by the
Indian allowing himself to be taken without resistance and to
(31:51):
be put into the stocks. A party of Mulatos or
of Creole negroes would not have submitted this quietly. Late
at night, he paid, the debt was released, and I
saw no more of him for a considerable time. I
was now dismissing all those workmen who were not in
debt to me, and at last only a few persons
remained whose services I required and upon whose character I
(32:14):
could depend. It was very seldom that I visited Asife,
but when there was a necessity for so doing, I
took advantage of moonlight nights in preference to traveling in
the daytime, and was on these occasions accompanied by Manuel.
The wood of Mehruera, through which we usually passed, is
famous for the numerous stories of ghosts that wander and
(32:37):
a murders that had been committed in it. One night,
when the moon was not at a sufficient height to
afford a tolerably clear view of the objects around, we
were passing through this wood. I saw a figure before
me in the middle of the path, which bore the
appearance of a man standing still. I slackened my pace
and called out, as is customary, who comes there. But
(33:00):
before I could possibly have received an answer, Monuel brushed past,
saying let me see. However, I desired him to be quiet,
as no harm might be intended. On a nearer approach,
we discovered that an old stump of a tree had
caused this alarm. On another occasion, I sent the same
slave from Haesifi to Jaguaribe on foot early in the morning,
(33:22):
telling him that I intended to follow him. Leaving Hasefi
about eight o'clock in the evening, I was to be
accompanied by Zakarias, another slave whose courage was somewhat doubtful.
Manuel arrived at Jaguaribe and immediately prepared one of the
pack horses, saying to the manager that he was going
to meet his master, who was on the road alone.
For he said, Zacharias is nobody footnote, Zacharias nowing and
(33:48):
gain end footnote. The manager could not persuade him to
give up his intention, and therefore, as he knew that
the slave was much tired with his walk, he came himself.
I mention these anecdotes for the purpose of showing the
kind of man who usually followed me wherever I went.
Several months now succeeded each other without any disquietude. I
(34:12):
had another attack of argue during the rainy season, which
was however, much less violent than that of the preceding year.
I likewise met with an accident which had nearly proved fatal,
occasioned by a blow from the fore feet of a
high fed horse. He reared and struck me, but this
was done more in playfulness than with the intent to
(34:33):
do mischief. I had had some intention of leaving Jaguaribe,
owing to the turbulence of the neighborhood, to my ill health,
and to some disagreeable occurrences which had taken place between
my landlord and myself. However, as this would have been
very inconvenient, I resolved to stay. Notwithstanding all these and
other disadvantages. Preparations were made in the month of August
(34:57):
for setting the mill to work. The cane had not
attained this year its accustomed growth in most parts of
the country, and that which I possessed was particularly stinted
in size, for I had not commenced planting until it
was almost too late. Everything being ready towards the end
of the month, I sent for a priest to bless
the works. Unless the ceremony is performed, every person who
(35:21):
is to be employed about the mill, both freemen and slave,
would be afraid to proceed to his destined labor, and
if any accident happened, it would be ascribed to the
wrath of Heaven for this breach of religious observance. The
priest arrived and said Mass, after which we breakfasted, and
then proceeded to the mill. The manager and several other freemen,
(35:43):
and the negroes stood around the works. A quantity of
cain was placed ready to be thrust in between the rollers,
and the four negroes, whose part it was to feed
the mill, stood at their posts. Two lighted candles were
placed close to the rollers upon the platform which sustains
the cane, and a small image of Our Savior upon
(36:03):
the cross stood between them. The priest took his breviary
and read several prayers, and at stayed at places with
a small bunch of weeds prepared for the occasion, which
he dipped in a jug of holy water. He sprinkled
the mill, and the persons present. Some of the negro
sprang forwards to receive a good quantum of the sanctified water.
(36:26):
And then the master of the sugar boiling house led
the way to the portion of the works of which
he had the direction, and here there was another sprinkling.
When we returned to the part of the mill in
which the rollers stood, the priest took a large cane,
and I did the same. Then the signal being given,
the flood gate was open, and the works were soon
(36:47):
in motion, and according to rule, the two canes which
the priest and I held in our hands, were the
first to be ground. I'd heard much of this ceremony
from persons of the country, and I cannot avoid saying that,
although something of the ridiculous may by many persons be
attached to it, still I could not help feeling much
respect for it. The excitement of devout feelings among the slaves,
(37:11):
even of those feelings which are produced by the Roman
Catholic religion, cannot fail to be serviceable. And if men
are to exist as slaves, this is doubtless the religion
which is the best adapted to persons in a state
of subjection. Slavery and superstition are, however, two evils which,
when combined, are surely sufficient to cause the misery of
(37:32):
any country. The carts, the oxen and their drivers had
not received the priest's benediction. They arrived some time afterwards
bring loads of canes, and the carts were ornamented with
the longest that could be picked out, placed as flag staffs,
and bearing upon them handkerchiefs and ribbons. Each cart in
succession stood before the door of the dwelling house, and
(37:55):
the priests complied with the wishes of the drivers. There
was a tall, thin Mulatto man of about fifty five
years of age, of the name of Insanchi, who lived
near to Jaguaribe. He was in the habit when he
saw me about my own place of stopping, that we
might have some conversation. I liked much to hear his stories.
(38:15):
He said that now the country was becoming quieter, that
disturbances were less frequent than formerly, that there were now
no Valentoins, valiant ones, nor any comtas ergies green beads.
He explained to me the precise meaning of the former
and the species of beads which were intended to be
described by the latter. These Valentoins were men of all castes,
(38:38):
whose whole business consisted in seeking opportunities of quarreling. They
attended all festivals and fairs, and their desire was to
become so famous for courage as to render the knowledge
of their presence on these occasions sufficient to keep in
awe any other individuals who might wish to create disturbances,
considering themselves privileged to revenge their own and their friend's injuries.
(39:03):
But they would not allow of any quarrel in which
they were not concerned. Two roads crossed each other at
about the distance of one leave from Jaguaribe, and at
this spot Vicenti told me that some of these men
often stood, obliging all passers by either to fight them
or to dismount, take off their hats and lead the
horses whilst they were in sight. These men wore round
(39:26):
their neck strings of green beads, which had either come
from the coast of Africa, bearing the wonderful property of
conveying in safety their possessors through all descriptions of perils,
or were charmed by manding gueros African sorcerers who had
been brought over to Brazil as slaves, and in secret
continued the prohibited practice of imparting this virtue to them.
(39:51):
The men were accompanied by dogs of extraordinary size and activity,
and possessing courage equal to that of their masters. These
animals had been taught to drink rum, which they would
do at their owner's command, giving to all beholders an
opinion of some supernatural qualities having bestowed upon them. Vicentia
had been acquainted with some of these men, and was
(40:12):
firmly persuaded of the virtues of the green beads, and
that the dogs imbted from their masters certain qualities which
made them superior to all the rest of their species.
The expression of the man's countenance changed entirely when he
commenced the relation of these stories. It was at all
times harsh, but now there was imparted to it a
(40:34):
considerable degree of unpleasant wildness. When I expressed my doubts
of the efficacy of the beads against a musketball, well directed.
His anger rose, but there was pity mingled with it,
for one who had not seen those times of wonder.
He seemed to be glad that they were over and
that all was now quiet. But yet he cherished a
(40:56):
sort of regard for men whose lives had been passed
in deeds of danger, for notwithstanding the charms such he
considered them to be, the death of these men was
generally violent, owing, as Vicentchi said, to some unfortunate removal
of the beads from the person of him whose destined
hour was arrived. It was not, however, from this person
(41:18):
alone that I heard accounts of the Valentoines. Footnote a
man of large property being much provoked at some outrage
which had been committed by one of these Valentoynes, who
was a white man, had said at his own home
that when he met the man, he would horsewhip him.
This was repeated to the outlaw, and shortly afterwards they
(41:39):
met accidentally in one of the narrow paths in the neighborhood.
The valentine was well armed with musket, sword and a knife.
He requested the gentleman to stop, as he had something
to say to him. The outlaw asked him for a
pinch of snuff, and then offered his own box, from
which a pinch was in like manner taken. He then
(42:01):
mentioned the injurious words which had been repeated to him.
The unfortunate offender directly imagined what would follow, and therefore
set spurs to his horse. But the road was without
any bend for some distance. The valentine knelt down upon
one knee and fired with the effect which he wished for.
He quietly walked on along the same road, telling the
(42:23):
whole story of his meeting. At the first village through
which he passed. This man was at last taken, tried
and hanged it by Yea through the very great exertions
of the brother of the person whom he had murdered.
He could not be executed at Pernambuco because he was
a white man. The transaction occurred at a short distance
from Jaguaribe about fifteen years ago and footnote. There was
(42:48):
an old Creole Negro residing in the neighborhood of Jaguaribe,
whose disposition led him to explore all the woods for
miles round in search of game. He preferred this manner
of attaining subsistence to that of daily labor with the
hull or bill hook. He was acquainted with the situations
in which the best timber was to be found, and could,
(43:10):
in many instances name the exact spot upon which some
particular tree stood, which was required for any given purpose.
This man often came to Jaguaribe, and on these occasions
I usually called him into the house to hear his
stories whilst I sat my hammock smoking. He was fond
of tales of ghosts and Manjingero's. The latter are famous,
(43:33):
among other feats, for handling poisonous snakes and can, according
to his account and that of many other persons, by
peculiar noises or tunes, called these reptiles from their hole,
and make them assemble around him. These sorcerers professed to
render inoxious the bites of snakes to persons who submit
to their charms and ceremonies. One of the modes which
(43:56):
is adopted for this purpose is that of allowing a
tame snake crawl over the head, face, and shoulders of
the person who is to be corrado jicobras cured of snakes,
as they term it, The owner of the snake repeats
a number of words during the operation of which the meaning,
if they contain any, is only known to the initiated.
(44:18):
The rattlesnake is said to be, above all other species,
the most susceptible of attention to the tunes of the Mandingueros.
The above accounts I should not have related upon the
authority of one or two persons. I've heard them repeat
it by several individuals, and even some men of education
have spoken of the reputed efficacy of the tame snakes
(44:38):
of the Mandingueros, as if they were somewhat staggered on
their disbelief of it. The reputation of the contre vergs
is firmly established in the faith of those persons of
the lower ranks who have heard of them. These men
certainly do play strange tricks, very dexterously. I've not been
so much inconvenienced by snakes as I have, I imagine
(45:00):
I should. I had seen several different kinds In going
through the woods, and particularly in that which leads from
Jaguaribi to Pallistas. The path through it is not much frequented,
and therefore the snakes have become bolder crossing the road
or running up a bank. As I passed along one afternoon,
I had a visit with which I could have well dispensed.
(45:21):
I happened to look up whilst sitting in my hammock,
and saw one of these reptiles lying quite still upon
the top of the wall of the room, in the
opening which is formed by the supporters of the roof
that rest upon it. I seized a pike and ran
into the snake, thus riveting it to one of the
beams of the roof, whilst I called to some person
to assist me in killing it. But its writhing was
(45:43):
so violent that it soon liberated itself and fell from
a wall on the outside, where several persons waited for it.
The people who were present did not know whether it
was the kaninana or papo oval egg eater species, as
these are much like to each other. The former is
a count it venomous, and the latter is by many
(46:04):
persons supposed to be harmless. Both are of a gray
color above and yellow underneath. The snake which we killed
was about four feet in length. The kinanana is likewise
sometimes called the flying snake, as it has the power
of springing to a considerable distance. It usually lies in
twining the branch of a tree, and from thence darts
(46:25):
down upon those who may molest it. The cobra dagua
or water snake, was often to be seen in the
rivulet which runs just below the dwelling house of Jaguaribe.
It is sometimes eight or ten feet in length and
of the thickness of a man's arm. The color of
the back is a bright black, and the belly is
of a pale yellow. The lower ranks of people say
(46:48):
that it is poisonous, but I have heard this contradicted.
The jaradasa snake is from six to nine feet in length.
The back is of a dusky yellow, and the belly
is white. The point of the tail is black, the
mouth is red, and it has two black and white
streaks upon the throat. The Suru cukou snake is of
(47:09):
nearly the same size as the jarra asa. It is
black and yellow. This reptile is attracted by fire, and
on this account would be more dangerous to travelers than
any other description of snake if its attention were not
so totally directed to the fire as to give time
an opportunity of killing it. It has, as I was
(47:31):
informed by many persons of credibility, been known to spring
off the ground at a person carrying a flambeaux. The
Suru cuckou and the jara asa are known to be poisonous.
The sipos snake is so called from its likeness to
the thin and flexible shoots of the plants which bear
this name. It is said to be poisonous. Charms are
(47:53):
often supposed to destroy the venom of snakes and to
produce consequently the recovery of the person who who has
been bitten by one of these reptiles. Oil is sometimes
used as a remedy, being given in considerable quantities, which
are increased or diminished according to the quality of the oil.
Rum is likewise administered so as to produce intoxication. I
(48:16):
have also seen a small plant which is known under
the name of erbacoprera. Wherever I have seen it, the
plant has been carefully preserved in a pot. This would
denote that it is not indigenous to the part of
the country in which I was, and indeed I was
told that it had been brought from Africa. I never
saw its flowers. The leaves of it are small and
(48:37):
heart shaped. The stem is of four or five inches
in length, and of a deep red color, which becomes
greenish towards the points of the branches. These are long,
crooked and spread horizontally. The leaves and the softer branches
are bruised and are applied to the wound, and the
juice which is extracted from them, when mixed with rum
or water, is drank by the patient. I do not
(49:00):
vouch for its success, but its name must, I should imagine,
have been acquired by its reputation. The mill was yet
at work in September when the owner of the place
applied to me to leave it, as it was convenient
for him to come down from another plantation of which
he was the owner and resided at Jaguaribe from its
vicinity to Hasifi. I agreed to this, but did not
(49:23):
wish that he should remove until I was about to
leave Jaguaribe. However, one morning a young man who was
related to and employed by him, came to my house
and told me that, by order from his kinsmen, he had,
accompanied by a gang of negroes, taken possession during the
night of the cottage, which was situated upon the shelf
of the hill. I expressed my surprise at this conduct,
(49:47):
and set a good deal upon the subject. He of
course returned for answer that he had only acted according
to the orders which he had received. The principal objection
which I had to the premature removal arose from the
general turbulent character of the slaves of this man, and
from the frequency of quarrels between the dependents of those
(50:07):
persons whose dwellings were so near to each other as
ours had now become. Several extremely disagreeable occurrences took place,
as I had feared would be the case, before I
could conveniently remove. But as these proceeded, more particularly from
the peculiarity of our situation, I do not think that
a minute account of them would be interesting. These anecdotes
(50:31):
could not be given in illustration of the general state
of manners in the country. Suffice it to say that
I made a visit to the owner of the plantation
of Amparo in the island of Itamarasa, upon whose lands
I agreed to plant sugar canes and to share with
him their produce, as is a usual practice upon sugar estates.
(50:52):
In the beginning of November eighteen thirteen, I set my
manager to prepare a residence for me at the town
of Conception in the island, and I removed to that
place in the course of the following month. End of
Section eighteen. End of Volume one and of Travels in
Brazil by Henry Coster
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