Surf Explorer & Humanitarian Matt George

Vast Lives Podcast 13- Matt George 

 

In this episode 13 of the Vast Lives podcast, Steve Shooter had the great honor of sharing with Matt George, a living legend in the surfing world and a tireless promoter of the deeper meanings that come from our beloved sport. The discussion ranges from the evolution of surfing culture, modern communication, and the importance of storytelling in keeping the soul of surfing alive.

 

The discussion began with the current state of surfing in the digital age, where social media often reduces our experiences to mere emojis. Matt emphasized the need for surfers to reconnect through meaningful conversations and narratives, rather than relying solely on visual content. He shared his belief that surfing is not just a pastime but a philosophical journey that connects us all, regardless of our skill level.

 

Matt, reflecting on his time as a senior contributing editor for Surfer Magazine, described how the tactile nature of print media fostered a sense of community among surfers. He lamented the fast-paced consumption of digital content and implored listeners to take a moment to appreciate nuances in surfing through writing and photography.

 

As they worked through Matt's new book entitled "In Deep," it was apparent that this book contained his best published works during the last 35 years, bound together with stories which actually define surfing and its culture. He talked about personal sharing, including his relationship to surfing icon Kelly Slater, along with the inspiring journey of woman champion Lane Beachley.

 

The discussion also centers around Matt's deep connection with Bali and Indonesia, places where he has spent decades immersing himself in the local culture and surfing community. He shared insights into the unique grace and calm of Indonesian surfers, attributing their style to a mix of cultural influences and a deep connection to the ocean.

 

Throughout the episode, Matt's passion for surfing and storytelling shone through. He challenged listeners to find meaning in their own surfing experiences and to appreciate the spiritual connection that comes with riding a wave.We concluded our conversation with a reflection on the importance of nurturing relationships within the surfing community and the need for surfers to listen to one another.

 

This episode is a celebration of the art of surfing, the power of storytelling, and the enduring spirit of the surfing community. Join us as we explore these themes and more with the remarkable Matt George.