October 30, 2024 • 45 mins
Valeria Agosta is a family owner of Palmento Costanzo in Contrade Santo Spiritu in Sicily's Etna North region. Palmento Costanzo is a modern winery built into an 18th century stone palmento, an historic Etna winemaking structure. Valeria’s winemaker daughter, Serena, produces sublime Etna DOC wines from native Carricante bianco and Nerello Mascalese rosso sourced from specific contrade (production zones). Some vines date over 100 years. Open for tastings and lunch. @palmentocostanzoetnawine
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The Connected Table is broadcast live Wednesdays at 2PM ET and Music on W4CY Radio (www.w4cy.com) part of Talk 4 Radio (www.talk4radio.com) on the Talk 4 Media Network (www.talk4media.com).
The Connected Table Podcast is also available on Talk 4 Media (www.talk4media.com), Talk 4 Podcasting (www.talk4podcasting.com), iHeartRadio, Amazon Music, Pandora, Spotify, Audible, and over 100 other podcast outlets.
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Speaker 1 (00:00):
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(00:21):
W FOURCY Radio.
Speaker 2 (00:42):
Welcome to the Connected Table. We're your hosts, Melanie Young
and David Ransom. You're insatiably curious culinary couple. We bring
you with great joy the dynamic people who work front
and center and behind the scenes in wine, food, spirits
and hospitality around the world. Ours is a global podcasts
that we enjoy sharing with our listeners who are also
(01:05):
around the world. And we're taking you to one of
the highlights of twenty twenty two for us this year,
right David.
Speaker 3 (01:12):
It sure was, Melanie. We're taking you back to one
of really our favorite trips in our favorite places in Italy,
Mount Etna on Sicily.
Speaker 2 (01:20):
I mean, you know Etna, Europe's largest active volcano. It's
almost spiritual when you go there. So much history, so
much beauty, and amazing wines that are so unique to
this area, right.
Speaker 3 (01:35):
David, Absolutely, Melanie very unique. And you know Etna has
a rich history, as does Sicily in winemaking, but the
modern incarnation of Etna wines really only started about thirty
or forty years ago.
Speaker 2 (01:48):
It's so true because you think about it, a lot
of the families just made wines for themselves, or they
grew grapes and may be sold to other people, but
they made them in these very old palmento, these stone
mills really that were you know, gravity fed. Really in
these days, archaic but very functional wineries, which we actually
(02:09):
saw some dating back quite a long time. We saw ruins,
but we also saw wineries that had restored these palmento
palmente and into quite beautiful structures. In fact, our guest
today is an example of that. In fact, the winery
is called Palmento Costanzo. Palmento again is the old winery.
(02:31):
Palmento Costanzo was actually built into a restored palmento. The
winery itself was founded in twenty ten by the Costanzo
family who wanted to go closer to the land that
witnessed their growth on the slopes of Mount Etna. They
restored this artisanal way of working and working with nature.
(02:52):
And another interesting thing about Palmento Costanzo, which we're going
to get into with our guests, is it's in the
north end of Enna and there are many pre follockra vines.
Something else that really struck us. Some of the vines
we saw were well over one hundred years old, right, David.
Speaker 3 (03:07):
As the volcanic soil has something to do with that
as well, because the laxera doesn't do well in porous
and soil, which volcanic soil is.
Speaker 2 (03:17):
And it's sandy or soil, so really amazing sand. And
when we went up the slopes amount that and then
we sunk into the kind of like sunk deep into
the soils. So anyway, our guest is Valeria Agusta Constanzo,
who is the priatress of Palmento costans So she actually
her daughter Serena works with her, and we tasted her
(03:38):
wines during Etna days and then had some sent back
to us here in the United States, and they're terrific.
They really embodied the supicity of what makes Etna wines
so unique. So Valeria, Agusta Costanzo, Welcome to the Connected table.
Speaker 4 (03:53):
Thank you very much. Hello to everybody.
Speaker 5 (03:56):
I'm here to tell you something about my story, about
my adventure.
Speaker 3 (04:03):
Well, we can't wait. Sadly, we weren't able to visit
you on this last trip to Mount Edna in September
twenty twenty two, but we hope you next time when
we come over.
Speaker 2 (04:11):
Yeah, we were enchanted by the wines, so Valeria. You
were born and raised in Katanya. First of all, for
our listeners who don't know where Katanya is, do let
us know where it is. We've been that our listeners
may not have. And give us a little insight into
what your family life was when you were a young girl.
Speaker 5 (04:28):
Okay, I was born in Katania, as you just told,
and I grew I grew in Katania, and in particular
my family. Nobody in my family, neither my direct family
nor my family of my husband as origin in in agriculture,
(04:48):
in the agriculture world.
Speaker 4 (04:50):
So Etna viticulture is a dream. Was the dream in.
Speaker 5 (04:56):
Two thousand and eight nine, when we start to look
around and but we I became from a different.
Speaker 4 (05:08):
Origin. In it means that I was not engaged in
uh in the in the.
Speaker 5 (05:14):
In agriculture, neither agriculture nor Invitic culture.
Speaker 4 (05:18):
And so I studied language and I always.
Speaker 5 (05:25):
I can say something about about my experience in the
wine world, starting with the with the with the traveling
a lot with my husband and then with my children
and when they arrived, and so this this all.
Speaker 4 (05:43):
Around the world we I am.
Speaker 5 (05:47):
I started to improve interest in wine, in h in
medical culture, in wines and and what all these involved
could be involved in my life too. So we started
looking around from looking around on Atna, mainly because I
(06:12):
married since thirty three years, and but we started just
at the beginning with my husband, because it was just
twenty four when I when I got married and my
husband was twenty seven.
Speaker 4 (06:25):
So we.
Speaker 5 (06:27):
Started our life together and all around the wine world.
And so I can say that this is my ethna
I grew you know, I agree with that. And I
was a Montana as as everybody you know in the world.
(06:50):
But I was I've been always very linked to the volcano,
to the eruptions.
Speaker 4 (06:55):
Because my father when I was young, it took me.
Speaker 5 (07:01):
Every every time there was an eruptions. I was there
to walk also close to the eruptions, because in that
period it was easier to reach volcano, it was easier
to see lava flow. And now it's really difficult. You
need to be to be to have some guide and
(07:22):
so on. So lava and volcano grew and was my
where my friends were my mate, in my in my childhood,
and so then growing up and with my husband, we
we started to to get always more and more involved.
(07:45):
Then we we moved to Rome with my children, and
and more and more and more our our our.
Speaker 4 (07:55):
What do you say, our.
Speaker 5 (08:00):
Lesson with the with the sicily with Catana, but with that, no,
mainly it was more and more strong with the passing
of time.
Speaker 2 (08:12):
You know, David, everyone we've interviewed from Ans they went away,
they went away, they were drawn back because it is
such a magical island. I am curious, how many languages
do you speak?
Speaker 4 (08:27):
Excuse me, didn't how many?
Speaker 2 (08:28):
Like? How many languages do you speak?
Speaker 4 (08:31):
Well? English and the French.
Speaker 5 (08:35):
But I I speak more and more English, so French,
unfortunately is not so I'm not so confidential with French.
Speaker 4 (08:44):
But I I'm able to to.
Speaker 5 (08:48):
Maintain and to take also a discussion in in in
viticulture with French language. But I'm not so so good
in French. Nonlish is better for me.
Speaker 3 (09:02):
You know, like many Vintnors we met on when we
were there, you actually left Sicily for a while and
moved to Rome to work and then came back. What
drew you back to Sicily and when did you return?
Speaker 5 (09:16):
So we moved to Rome in twenty and ten with
my husband and my children, but in more or less
in the same time, we decided and we focused, and
we finally decided to buy these the small vineyards from
the one which started from And so for me it
(09:40):
was difficult to manage with the vineyards from Rome, and
so it has been a choice perhaps also for my
children and to give them per ups other opportunities. But
(10:03):
there's really not a real important reason, because then it
was so easy also for us to come back to
Sicily and mainly to Actna because I think that vineyard
and what vineyard in a comprehend and I think that
(10:29):
it needs to be.
Speaker 4 (10:34):
To be as to beat.
Speaker 5 (10:37):
We have to beg to take care of a vineyard
as a child, as your children. Vines must be a
follow up must be you must have, you must follow
day by day. So when you start buying also a
small vineyard, you think that it's easy. Okay, you have
(10:58):
a small vinior, you make mine. You have a consultant,
and my consultant if you are not h the knowalogist.
But with the passing time you get.
Speaker 4 (11:11):
More and more and more.
Speaker 5 (11:15):
How do you say, not linked, but you feel the
necessity to to stay there day by day and not
just one day per week, or one or one week
per month, or or just in the main period the
(11:37):
veneer needs your presence or the harvest or some benefication
moments or I don't know.
Speaker 3 (11:43):
So this.
Speaker 5 (11:47):
Gave us the the the they invant to come back
and and for me it was important mainly to stay
close to the viniard close we live in Katania, but
in reality we live between Katana and Thatna because we
have also small a small house on at Noa where
(12:08):
we spend a lot of time, in particular during during
the important period of the harvest.
Speaker 4 (12:16):
So my husband come with me. But every day, every
every day, I am on Etna I I and.
Speaker 5 (12:23):
On every every weekend during holidays, and so very very
very hosten.
Speaker 4 (12:31):
But I can say always I live on Etna. I
stay on it.
Speaker 2 (12:37):
Well, we all know in the wine business that the
wines need tending year round, that every season brings another
responsibility in order to care for them. Uh and so
we totally understand that. Uh So you started with a
vineyard and you now I believe have eighteen hectars as
I understand. And yes, Parmental Custoans is located. This is important.
(12:59):
The new northern tip of Etna, which we visited, we learned.
It was our first visit to Etna, so we learned
a lot. We learned that the terrois obviously is very
different in the four different sub zones of Etna and
then by Contrata, by Contrata. Uh, I think this is
a good time to explain to our listeners the zones
and what makes the northern tip of Tna distinct and
(13:21):
what grows well there. And then you're also in the
Contrada Santo Spirito, which is I think it's like if
if you could think about a neighborhood. I always say,
think of Edna as a giant like Manhattan, and then
Contrata would be one of the villages like the East Village.
So why don't you explain it and you're that was
my explanation to people. Why don't you tell us how
(13:42):
it distinguishes what you produce?
Speaker 5 (13:45):
Okay, So we are on the supplementoo stand. So it's
on the northern slopes of Mount Etna in one of
the duc area. The duc Onna is like a sea
which which runs around the top of the volcano and
is divided into a three mainly three main version northern
(14:09):
which is where we are, southeast and southwest, the three
versons and the dooc on Atna is one of the
largest in Italy because it started for a hundred meters
and ends a one thousand meters depending on the version
on the northern slopes where we are ends at eight
(14:30):
hundred meters. Our vineyard Deers is from six up to
eight hundred meters. On the southeast Verson and southwest Verson
the doc ends a one thousand meter. But not only
this is the difference because Ethna is considered the island
in the island, an island in the island because of
(14:52):
the particular the ar for what we intend with the
meaning of the r so the micro climate, the altitude,
rain and the exposure and and so each each version
is totally different and and in each version during the day.
Speaker 2 (15:14):
One.
Speaker 5 (15:14):
The fourth season can occurs during an old day just
one day. And the difference between the version are are
done mainly from the from the altitude, of course, the
ends of the duc and the rain.
Speaker 4 (15:31):
So the southeast.
Speaker 5 (15:32):
Version is more raining, the northern version, I can say,
is more equilibread perhaps and then then the southwest is
really is really less in rain. And we have also
a small portion on the on the southern west version
sometimes at the dificul Idea where we produce just a
(15:55):
white wine, because that area is in particular for white
line is the highest in altitude is.
Speaker 4 (16:03):
The soil is more.
Speaker 5 (16:07):
Sand, not skeletric, but more sand, and the rain occurs
really really less compared to the northern and to the
south is verson we are on the northern slopes, so
between six hundred up to eight hundred meters, and our
when we started with both just a small small small
(16:29):
portion where the main quarter is where where the the
state is, with the two area of production, the old
one which is the old Falmento we restored and the
new production area we completed in two thy nineteen, and
so the main we started from five actors.
Speaker 4 (16:50):
Then they not they by the year. By years we
we reach.
Speaker 5 (16:56):
We reached twelve actors in the contrada and to Spirito,
so we are in contradacent to Spirito and the main
portion of actors are in contradacent to Spirito. Then we
have small parcels in always in Casilion and decision area
Sotor auto Braga, said gem feldmad the other one which
(17:19):
is Contrada Cavalier on the southern west version.
Speaker 4 (17:23):
Each contrada, as you told before, is.
Speaker 5 (17:25):
Different from the other for different reasons. But the most
important probably I can say, of course exposure the altitude.
But all contrata are different because the different eruptions which
(17:45):
occurred during the year one hundred years in the past.
They characterize the soil depending on what lava flow found
found during the flowing. So so each contrada is different
for this reason because of the soil is different. But
(18:09):
I started the studying the soil the contrata the terross
our vinner in contradas to Spirito, where we have this
state is characterized mainly from terrasis and also from an
eruption of eighteen seventy nine, and the soil in the
(18:32):
same contrada. I can say that in our contrada happens
what we can say happened in the different contrada. So
the differences are between one contrada to the others of
the contrada and to spirit of the metzo where the
olsa Lorenzo and so on, it occurs also in the
same contrada.
Speaker 4 (18:54):
So we in the same area, with the small difference of.
Speaker 5 (19:03):
Meters and terraces, we have soil totally different, more skeletric,
more fertile, and more more fat, soil with more organic elements.
And the wines are which in particular, and we we
produce a contradasan to spirit or Red because on ETRA
(19:26):
only the crew can take the name of the area
of production.
Speaker 4 (19:30):
And we produce a contradas to spirit or Red.
Speaker 5 (19:33):
But we studying the contrada, studying the soil, the different
soil terraces by teross we we we discovered that we
discovered and we produce. We did this this project or
producing from the same contrada three different wines of contrada.
There are three contrader wines red which have the name,
(19:56):
which have the name of the three parcels of the
map of the area. And they are three different wine
completely because one is closest to the It is closer
to the lava flows, so skelectric soil. One is more
fertile because this wine is produced by the central part
(20:17):
of the vineyard with all the terroces and the other
the four hundred and sixty four wine is close to
the gate where the soil is more fat, is rich
in organic elements, and also the wine is more i
want to say around it, but it is more bodied
(20:37):
compared to the the wine produced from the from the
area close to the lava soil, because there is a
skeletric soil. But of course it's always a Etna wine,
so sapidity and minerality. Sapidity, even if it is a
red wine, is always present. Minerality is sapidity, and verticality
(21:01):
is always present, even if it's a more rounded red wine.
Speaker 2 (21:08):
When we were in Etna days, one of the early
days there, we got we received an amazing overview from
scientists on the geography of Etna and the sub zones
and the history of lava flows, and it really is fascinating.
Everyone who lives in Enna always lives with the potential
shadow of another eruption. Everybody in fact, somebody said while
(21:32):
we were there, and we were there in September, it
could be happening next month. You know, you always live
with that. But the fact that with each lava flow
over time it changes the soils organic compositions is fascinating
because because then you have to adjust accordingly as you
(21:54):
move forward with the vines. Right, yeah, so interesting.
Speaker 1 (22:00):
Uh.
Speaker 2 (22:00):
We mentioned in the introduction that you also have a
number of priphilocks ungrafted vines. Talk to us about that
and how many, and talk to us about the wines
from those vines which we know are limited in production.
Speaker 5 (22:17):
Yes, as you know, Atna is one of the of
that there were viticulture. There were which were was not
affected by the outid of Philoscea because of the altitude
and because of the sand lava sand so Ana in
generally is one of the the land the viticulture area
(22:40):
which were so lucky, which was so lucky where where
we where with viticulture was not destroyed. So we we
cultivate only varietals, so the rella mascalez and carricante, so
the two blend in the vind mascales for the reds,
(23:00):
carrican and karata for the white. So the vineyard is
really really really old. Even if we buying some new
land which were not planted, we continue planting autoutomn varietals.
So we have wines free of roots and crafted and
prefiloce wines a particular, A parcel in particular is which
(23:25):
is the oldest. From this parcel we produce one filoxcella wine,
just one thousand and five hundred bottles more or less.
And we are trying to continue the genetic part of
the vines planting when we have to plant the new
(23:49):
wine from the old prefilox vines to respect the genetic
origin of the vine. So we're going to plant free
of roots. And because I feel, I think that that
I have having these these big can you say this
(24:14):
big jewel, I can say of having, of having autos
on varietals, these autos on varietals must be respected also
trying to plant themselves free of roots, to maintain and
to to maintain the same the same genetic or origin
(24:39):
and characteristic and yes philosizes they are.
Speaker 4 (24:46):
Our cultivation is called in quin Kongs.
Speaker 5 (24:49):
It means that the vines are planted one meter point
one more or less one from the other. So all
the works are done by hand and in the vinior,
so without machinery, and in particular the philos parcel is
a need to be respected using less less less internments
(25:12):
of man in the in the works in the vinior.
Speaker 2 (25:17):
Such incredible detail and seeing these David, so, David, you
and I were on we went at it together. But
then they had different itineraries, so they split David I up,
which was interesting, which was beneficial, And we saw different producers.
I know, I went to one producer and I saw
the beautiful prefuloxur vines and they're quite stunning. They were
(25:38):
almost like works of art, and so unique to very
specific areas of Europe because so much of Europe was
devastated the vines were devastated by phuloxa in the late
nineteenth century.
Speaker 3 (25:52):
That there are pockets all over Europe and the world
that still have Prefuloxa vines yea, and in Spain and
France and Sardinian system of course, and various other areas
of the world too, but they're small pockets. So yeah,
so those are really the only places that you get
the true identity of the grape that hasn't been that
hasn't been muddled in a way.
Speaker 2 (26:13):
Remember we saw some in the rwin.
Speaker 3 (26:14):
It was incredible, but I always find that fascinating.
Speaker 4 (26:19):
It was talking before about the lava flow, but in
these days we have eruptions.
Speaker 2 (26:26):
Really oh oh oh, well they said, they said late September.
But maybe you know it's interesting, you know, it was
really daunting Valerie, as we were. We we the day
we went up the mountain. It was too windy to
do the venicela, so we did a bus and we
went over to this beautiful crater and we saw we're
(26:48):
still some pieces of ice. As we descended our bus
descended down the slope, David pointed out a structure that
had clearly been overcome by lava.
Speaker 5 (27:00):
Law.
Speaker 2 (27:00):
You see these destroyed structures that are semi buried in
the soil or the sand now, and it reminds you
of the power that this volcano and that anyone who
has any kind of life and it could change in
the moment.
Speaker 4 (27:19):
Absolutely, I live in a volcano.
Speaker 5 (27:21):
But you you can see also on the northern version
where we are, in particular, also my my eruption, my eruptions,
the one which flows close to which flood close to
my vineyard, there is a small Towertretta Littleretta are a
small small small tower called the Torretta, which were destroyed
(27:43):
by the different eruptions. And so also now you can
see a small building in the viner which were destroyed
in the bus froma from law eruptions.
Speaker 2 (28:00):
M that's so wild. Right, Let's talk about some of
your wines. You have a wine called pre Filocera. It's
which you mentioned it. It's limited edition. We were able
to taste a few. First, we haven't talked about the Caracante,
which was a beautiful white cato. So let's talk about
(28:21):
what you make in the southern part, right, No, no, I.
Speaker 5 (28:25):
Have also a Contradstan to speed it to white first
vintage two thousand and twenty. But we have a b
which is is our, which is our first wine we produce.
Speaker 4 (28:36):
White wine.
Speaker 5 (28:37):
We produced in twenty twelve was the first vintage, and
then the contra on the other version. I think that
carry Conte well, perhaps Ana was known for the red wine.
But I think, but not only me, but we all
on ETNA, we think that carri Conte and white wine
(28:58):
is going and is going to be appreciated. Okay, but
we are discovering. I am discovering carri conte and very
good potentiality also in aging because our our classical life
white Okay, it goes on the market after four months
of still but the superior ones, so the the bianco
(29:22):
and the two contrada contra white and contradation to spirit
to white when go out in the market after two
years from the harvests. Because we think that aging in
instantly still times and aging in bottle is really really
really important for the wine. And and and cari conte
(29:46):
has good potentiality even if the first carry canta known
in the world wine was it is the the Carricunte
bianco superior from southern is a person. But not only
because we on the northern slopes produce very good white
wine too, but not me implemental sounds. So my my
(30:09):
friends producer and acta, we all produce the different white
wine depending on the verse and depending on the versa,
depending on the contrada. But carry conte as a beautiful
and good potentiality of aging.
Speaker 4 (30:23):
And I love.
Speaker 5 (30:24):
The white on Etna because perhaps because me too, I'm
discovering that white is as beautiful gives you beautiful emotion, dissipidity.
The verticality, then the crispy characteristics of the white wine
Ona are really stunning. I say, if I can say
(30:47):
studying in English for a wine, you can and we agree.
Speaker 3 (30:53):
I also and I've also fascinated by how well these
white wines on age.
Speaker 2 (30:59):
Yes, yes, you know, we're fascinated by white wines age well.
And they also go really well with the cuisine u
of the region and really quite beautiful. So for anyone
who has not had caraen coante is indigenous to Edna.
Now we've been to the Colorato, you can get other
parts of sicily. Yeah obviously, yeah, yes, underscore that.
Speaker 5 (31:24):
Yes, in fact, carricante, the caricante is the main varietal
a wine, a white wine on it and I must
have to be considered the OC. The minimum or percentage
of carricuante must be the sixty percent for a white
to be the OC and the rest.
Speaker 4 (31:45):
In my case, well, we have a wine with.
Speaker 5 (31:48):
Mostly more carricuant persons eighteen ninety percent and the rest
of the of the varietyl can be also another varietal,
but not an aromatic one. But in the old vineyard
all of us we have and catarata. Even if there
are a lot of producers who wanted to to start a.
Speaker 4 (32:09):
New project planting international.
Speaker 5 (32:13):
Rital at the moment, At the moment, I say, because
my daughter, as you told before, is going to reach me,
because in this moment, she is a completing university. She's
in she's in Montpellier, last year of university and then.
Speaker 4 (32:32):
She will be back on ETNA.
Speaker 5 (32:34):
But she's she's graduated in agriculture and the third the
three first year in agriculture and the other two in viticulture.
In in now in Montpellier. She is now Pelier doing
doing her last year, attending her last year.
Speaker 2 (32:52):
I'm curious you mentioned international varieties she considering her You know,
are there other inter national varieties that you would you
could cultivate or would consider that we do.
Speaker 5 (33:03):
Well, Yes, we can cultivate. Of course, there are a
lot of producers who planted the pinot or love. But
in this case the wine cannot be a dooc. Of course,
can be diu C for the red. It has the
eighty percent of netaloma scaleza and minimum sixty percent of
(33:25):
carric ante for the white. All the other varietals, of
course will not be diuc wine.
Speaker 4 (33:32):
But it's a.
Speaker 5 (33:33):
Philosophy everybody has different philosophy, and I respect the philosophy
of everybody. Each of us has different different ideas, different credo,
different view of of our own state and the wine
its own estate or wine.
Speaker 3 (33:56):
You know, we when we were visiting, we saw the
there was a lot of there was a lot of
ancient winemaking equipment. You have you obviously restored a palmento,
but you obviously also have a modern wine making facility.
At what point did you when you decided to start
your winery and build your winery, at what point did
(34:18):
you want to make sure that you preserve the old
ways of old ways of making wine as well to
make sure that that palmento moved forward into the future.
Speaker 5 (34:27):
Okay, when we bought the first small part of the
more or less five actors in contradscent Hospirito, we found
in the land the old plemento, this two building which
is the old plemento because the old owner used to
sell the rape.
Speaker 4 (34:43):
There wasn't an estate in that area.
Speaker 5 (34:46):
So we started managing with with the with the theosis.
Because we found the albarello on concrete posts, so we
moved the concrete post with the chestnut post to to
give to the Albarello is traditional history in cultivation and
(35:07):
the oldplemento we decided to start is adventure also for
deparmento to restore implemento because we are also in the
National Park of Vactina, and and we had to follow strictly,
strictly the rules to restore implemento. So we we're producing
supplemento with modern technology, so wood and we have a
(35:31):
sterized wood for the trunco conic barrels for the fermentation area,
and then the also barrel in the in the in
the cellar downstairs and the album from Talanso in French
choke and then all the still for the white and
also for the spumante because we produced the Metodo classical
(35:54):
first vintage two thousand and eighteen, but no Milesmato.
Speaker 4 (35:59):
So with with the adding of all of the.
Speaker 5 (36:02):
Same old wine and and so re isoplemento and and
trying to maintain because we tried to build. We build
it with the to follow the gravity system of viticulture.
Then we have the modern cantina, which is of course
(36:24):
more regular and it's it's uh more, it's easier to
work inside the new modern cantina compared to palmento.
Speaker 4 (36:35):
But it's really beautiful. Do the harvest.
Speaker 5 (36:40):
Insight plemento because everything is is uh is fascinating because
we have to move in particular way. You don't have
so many opportunity to do what you want in in
easy with easy movement. But it's really it's really fascinating.
Speaker 2 (37:00):
It really is fascinating. And I just was so taken
by the history of this area and said, Albarello, you
mentioned it, but I just want to under sure this
is a very historic way of vineyard cultivation using chestnut posts.
It's very unique too, and sometimes or no post at all,
and it's it's quite striking and very unique to Anna.
(37:25):
Are you working with who is your winemaker? And are
you working with a consulting winemaker?
Speaker 5 (37:30):
Yes, we have a consultant is nicologe andanse is from Marsala,
Sicily on the western.
Speaker 4 (37:37):
Part of Sicily.
Speaker 5 (37:39):
Is a young boy forty forty eight, forty seven, forty eight,
and he is with us with a long time. And
then we have also a continuera inside to continue inside.
But we have this nicola Is is really a beautiful person.
(38:02):
I can say at first because he stays with us
very often, so it comes every week for three days
per week, and then he helped me to study and
to understand because I am not I have not study
(38:23):
neither in agriculture nor in viticulture. My daughter will be
plenty of this information and notional study and knowledge. And
so I learned with him and.
Speaker 4 (38:37):
I did with him a small.
Speaker 5 (38:42):
Small steps to grow and to understand. Also some aspect
which can be not confidential for me. But I'm very
happy of his work with us.
Speaker 2 (39:01):
That's good because it's always good to have a good
team in place as you grow and develop. You know,
a lot of our listeners may be listening and thinking, wow,
I gotta go visit. I want to plan a visit.
As someone who has come back to Etna is now
living there, what would you say or some highlights that
(39:22):
you would recommend if someone is planning to come to
the area.
Speaker 4 (39:28):
Where to stay or what to visit? They didn't understand where.
Speaker 2 (39:31):
To stay, to to to visit? Just highlights that obviously
coming to your winery, But if you were planning a
visit to Edna, what are some okay places you would recommend?
Speaker 5 (39:42):
I think that we have started from we must you
have all they or them? How to start is a
mass visiting Etna with the vulcano, the volcano area, but
all the the the all the country around Thattna, the
(40:03):
viticulture area, the Arcanata area apart from Tourmina, but all
the area with around Ana, to do a scursion on
the lava, to do running, to do, also cycling on volcano,
skiing if you can during a skiing period.
Speaker 4 (40:25):
And then you have.
Speaker 5 (40:28):
The Alcantara River where you can walk in the river.
It's better in summer because the water is really really
really cold and if you have the boots that it's
really cold. Then the area of Tormina but from Etna
can be considered as starting a starting point to a
(40:52):
large like Apiov like an octopus, see all around and
visit and having different aspects of history, agriculture, Food of
food is important.
Speaker 4 (41:07):
Food is the first with wine and.
Speaker 5 (41:12):
Tourmina, but also not so far, not so close to
Ana or Dijauza, so starting.
Speaker 4 (41:20):
I think that.
Speaker 5 (41:22):
Ethna must be considered the starting point of a tour,
of a visit, of a trip and from Etna coming
back probably too every day every night on Etna area,
but coming from starting from Etna, going all around, you
have a hundreds of possibility to spend not only one
(41:46):
day today days one week, also one month. You have
so many things to do starting from also Poritanian ebrody,
the mountain chen.
Speaker 4 (41:57):
You could see in.
Speaker 5 (41:58):
Front of my wine. There is a lot to visit,
a lot, a lot, a lot of things. And then
you can go also to swim if if it's summer,
to do a trip in about.
Speaker 4 (42:12):
A lot of things, lots of things.
Speaker 3 (42:14):
And you know, one of the things I love about
it and is that in wine production there's a lot
of small producers.
Speaker 2 (42:19):
Yeah, very small producers. Family run, a lot of young producers,
as we said, you know, and it's got a long
history as a as a as a sense of place
in Sicily, but it's got a young history, a long
history in history as a place, but a young history
as a modern wine production area. So still for many
(42:43):
a discovery. Fortunately a number of the wine you know,
many of the wines are available in the United States.
In fact, who is your importer valeria.
Speaker 4 (42:51):
In New York.
Speaker 5 (42:52):
I have a Yako artisanal seller for a New York Vermon,
New Jersey, the of Long Island. Then we have Mucci,
and then I have different important in Virginia, Cima different
in another region estate and then we have also marked
(43:14):
the Gracia MDG selection which helped has another country, but
mainly it is a yako in New York at the moment.
Speaker 2 (43:25):
So your wines, Pomento stance ones are well distributed basically
in the United States, which is wonderful. You know, we
can't wait to go back. We hope you're back to
the end of the days. I think one of our
bucket list trips now has to be ski to see.
Speaker 3 (43:42):
So which means don't be afraid to go to in
the winter time.
Speaker 2 (43:44):
Yeah, I think it'd be great to go to in
the wintertime.
Speaker 4 (43:48):
Yeah, with the summer, spring, autumn.
Speaker 5 (43:51):
Each season has a particularity also for bity culture as
you can imagine, and you know, of course.
Speaker 3 (43:57):
And it's all good.
Speaker 2 (43:58):
Yeah, well, val we have so enjoyed speaking with you.
Thank you for joining us from Italy on the connected table.
For our listeners who'd like more information, the website is
Palmento Costanzo dot com and we appreciate your time and
we can't wait to come back and pay you a
visit when we return.
Speaker 5 (44:18):
Looking forward to receiving you, having you on ETNA and
I wish you best Christmas, holidays and the New year.
Speaker 2 (44:28):
Thank you so much, and thank you to you, and
thank you to all our listeners who follow us regularly
on the Connected Table. We enjoy bringing you the stories
of the dynamic people who are front and center behind
the scenes and wind food, spirits and hospitality as we
travel the world and hope to do more of and
as always, our message is stay insatiably curious. Thank you.
Speaker 3 (45:05):
Like what you're hearing on the Connected Table live but
short on time, then join us on our companion podcast series,
The Connected Table SIPs, featuring brief chats with movers and
shakers in fine food, beverage and hospitality. Grab a glass
with us and learn the latest on trends, products and vintages.
You can stream The Connected Table SIPs on iHeart, iTunes, Spotify, Pandora,
(45:27):
or any of your favorite podcast platforms. Join us The
Connected Table SIPs
The topics and opinions expressed and the following show are
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(00:21):
W FOURCY Radio.
Speaker 2 (00:42):
Welcome to the Connected Table. We're your hosts, Melanie Young
and David Ransom. You're insatiably curious culinary couple. We bring
you with great joy the dynamic people who work front
and center and behind the scenes in wine, food, spirits
and hospitality around the world. Ours is a global podcasts
that we enjoy sharing with our listeners who are also
(01:05):
around the world. And we're taking you to one of
the highlights of twenty twenty two for us this year,
right David.
Speaker 3 (01:12):
It sure was, Melanie. We're taking you back to one
of really our favorite trips in our favorite places in Italy,
Mount Etna on Sicily.
Speaker 2 (01:20):
I mean, you know Etna, Europe's largest active volcano. It's
almost spiritual when you go there. So much history, so
much beauty, and amazing wines that are so unique to
this area, right.
Speaker 3 (01:35):
David, Absolutely, Melanie very unique. And you know Etna has
a rich history, as does Sicily in winemaking, but the
modern incarnation of Etna wines really only started about thirty
or forty years ago.
Speaker 2 (01:48):
It's so true because you think about it, a lot
of the families just made wines for themselves, or they
grew grapes and may be sold to other people, but
they made them in these very old palmento, these stone
mills really that were you know, gravity fed. Really in
these days, archaic but very functional wineries, which we actually
(02:09):
saw some dating back quite a long time. We saw ruins,
but we also saw wineries that had restored these palmento
palmente and into quite beautiful structures. In fact, our guest
today is an example of that. In fact, the winery
is called Palmento Costanzo. Palmento again is the old winery.
(02:31):
Palmento Costanzo was actually built into a restored palmento. The
winery itself was founded in twenty ten by the Costanzo
family who wanted to go closer to the land that
witnessed their growth on the slopes of Mount Etna. They
restored this artisanal way of working and working with nature.
(02:52):
And another interesting thing about Palmento Costanzo, which we're going
to get into with our guests, is it's in the
north end of Enna and there are many pre follockra vines.
Something else that really struck us. Some of the vines
we saw were well over one hundred years old, right, David.
Speaker 3 (03:07):
As the volcanic soil has something to do with that
as well, because the laxera doesn't do well in porous
and soil, which volcanic soil is.
Speaker 2 (03:17):
And it's sandy or soil, so really amazing sand. And
when we went up the slopes amount that and then
we sunk into the kind of like sunk deep into
the soils. So anyway, our guest is Valeria Agusta Constanzo,
who is the priatress of Palmento costans So she actually
her daughter Serena works with her, and we tasted her
(03:38):
wines during Etna days and then had some sent back
to us here in the United States, and they're terrific.
They really embodied the supicity of what makes Etna wines
so unique. So Valeria, Agusta Costanzo, Welcome to the Connected table.
Speaker 4 (03:53):
Thank you very much. Hello to everybody.
Speaker 5 (03:56):
I'm here to tell you something about my story, about
my adventure.
Speaker 3 (04:03):
Well, we can't wait. Sadly, we weren't able to visit
you on this last trip to Mount Edna in September
twenty twenty two, but we hope you next time when
we come over.
Speaker 2 (04:11):
Yeah, we were enchanted by the wines, so Valeria. You
were born and raised in Katanya. First of all, for
our listeners who don't know where Katanya is, do let
us know where it is. We've been that our listeners
may not have. And give us a little insight into
what your family life was when you were a young girl.
Speaker 5 (04:28):
Okay, I was born in Katania, as you just told,
and I grew I grew in Katania, and in particular
my family. Nobody in my family, neither my direct family
nor my family of my husband as origin in in agriculture,
(04:48):
in the agriculture world.
Speaker 4 (04:50):
So Etna viticulture is a dream. Was the dream in.
Speaker 5 (04:56):
Two thousand and eight nine, when we start to look
around and but we I became from a different.
Speaker 4 (05:08):
Origin. In it means that I was not engaged in
uh in the in the.
Speaker 5 (05:14):
In agriculture, neither agriculture nor Invitic culture.
Speaker 4 (05:18):
And so I studied language and I always.
Speaker 5 (05:25):
I can say something about about my experience in the
wine world, starting with the with the with the traveling
a lot with my husband and then with my children
and when they arrived, and so this this all.
Speaker 4 (05:43):
Around the world we I am.
Speaker 5 (05:47):
I started to improve interest in wine, in h in
medical culture, in wines and and what all these involved
could be involved in my life too. So we started
looking around from looking around on Atna, mainly because I
(06:12):
married since thirty three years, and but we started just
at the beginning with my husband, because it was just
twenty four when I when I got married and my
husband was twenty seven.
Speaker 4 (06:25):
So we.
Speaker 5 (06:27):
Started our life together and all around the wine world.
And so I can say that this is my ethna
I grew you know, I agree with that. And I
was a Montana as as everybody you know in the world.
(06:50):
But I was I've been always very linked to the volcano,
to the eruptions.
Speaker 4 (06:55):
Because my father when I was young, it took me.
Speaker 5 (07:01):
Every every time there was an eruptions. I was there
to walk also close to the eruptions, because in that
period it was easier to reach volcano, it was easier
to see lava flow. And now it's really difficult. You
need to be to be to have some guide and
(07:22):
so on. So lava and volcano grew and was my
where my friends were my mate, in my in my childhood,
and so then growing up and with my husband, we
we started to to get always more and more involved.
(07:45):
Then we we moved to Rome with my children, and
and more and more and more our our our.
Speaker 4 (07:55):
What do you say, our.
Speaker 5 (08:00):
Lesson with the with the sicily with Catana, but with that, no,
mainly it was more and more strong with the passing
of time.
Speaker 2 (08:12):
You know, David, everyone we've interviewed from Ans they went away,
they went away, they were drawn back because it is
such a magical island. I am curious, how many languages
do you speak?
Speaker 4 (08:27):
Excuse me, didn't how many?
Speaker 2 (08:28):
Like? How many languages do you speak?
Speaker 4 (08:31):
Well? English and the French.
Speaker 5 (08:35):
But I I speak more and more English, so French,
unfortunately is not so I'm not so confidential with French.
Speaker 4 (08:44):
But I I'm able to to.
Speaker 5 (08:48):
Maintain and to take also a discussion in in in
viticulture with French language. But I'm not so so good
in French. Nonlish is better for me.
Speaker 3 (09:02):
You know, like many Vintnors we met on when we
were there, you actually left Sicily for a while and
moved to Rome to work and then came back. What
drew you back to Sicily and when did you return?
Speaker 5 (09:16):
So we moved to Rome in twenty and ten with
my husband and my children, but in more or less
in the same time, we decided and we focused, and
we finally decided to buy these the small vineyards from
the one which started from And so for me it
(09:40):
was difficult to manage with the vineyards from Rome, and
so it has been a choice perhaps also for my
children and to give them per ups other opportunities. But
(10:03):
there's really not a real important reason, because then it
was so easy also for us to come back to
Sicily and mainly to Actna because I think that vineyard
and what vineyard in a comprehend and I think that
(10:29):
it needs to be.
Speaker 4 (10:34):
To be as to beat.
Speaker 5 (10:37):
We have to beg to take care of a vineyard
as a child, as your children. Vines must be a
follow up must be you must have, you must follow
day by day. So when you start buying also a
small vineyard, you think that it's easy. Okay, you have
(10:58):
a small vinior, you make mine. You have a consultant,
and my consultant if you are not h the knowalogist.
But with the passing time you get.
Speaker 4 (11:11):
More and more and more.
Speaker 5 (11:15):
How do you say, not linked, but you feel the
necessity to to stay there day by day and not
just one day per week, or one or one week
per month, or or just in the main period the
(11:37):
veneer needs your presence or the harvest or some benefication
moments or I don't know.
Speaker 3 (11:43):
So this.
Speaker 5 (11:47):
Gave us the the the they invant to come back
and and for me it was important mainly to stay
close to the viniard close we live in Katania, but
in reality we live between Katana and Thatna because we
have also small a small house on at Noa where
(12:08):
we spend a lot of time, in particular during during
the important period of the harvest.
Speaker 4 (12:16):
So my husband come with me. But every day, every
every day, I am on Etna I I and.
Speaker 5 (12:23):
On every every weekend during holidays, and so very very
very hosten.
Speaker 4 (12:31):
But I can say always I live on Etna. I
stay on it.
Speaker 2 (12:37):
Well, we all know in the wine business that the
wines need tending year round, that every season brings another
responsibility in order to care for them. Uh and so
we totally understand that. Uh So you started with a
vineyard and you now I believe have eighteen hectars as
I understand. And yes, Parmental Custoans is located. This is important.
(12:59):
The new northern tip of Etna, which we visited, we learned.
It was our first visit to Etna, so we learned
a lot. We learned that the terrois obviously is very
different in the four different sub zones of Etna and
then by Contrata, by Contrata. Uh, I think this is
a good time to explain to our listeners the zones
and what makes the northern tip of Tna distinct and
(13:21):
what grows well there. And then you're also in the
Contrada Santo Spirito, which is I think it's like if
if you could think about a neighborhood. I always say,
think of Edna as a giant like Manhattan, and then
Contrata would be one of the villages like the East Village.
So why don't you explain it and you're that was
my explanation to people. Why don't you tell us how
(13:42):
it distinguishes what you produce?
Speaker 5 (13:45):
Okay, So we are on the supplementoo stand. So it's
on the northern slopes of Mount Etna in one of
the duc area. The duc Onna is like a sea
which which runs around the top of the volcano and
is divided into a three mainly three main version northern
(14:09):
which is where we are, southeast and southwest, the three
versons and the dooc on Atna is one of the
largest in Italy because it started for a hundred meters
and ends a one thousand meters depending on the version
on the northern slopes where we are ends at eight
(14:30):
hundred meters. Our vineyard Deers is from six up to
eight hundred meters. On the southeast Verson and southwest Verson
the doc ends a one thousand meter. But not only
this is the difference because Ethna is considered the island
in the island, an island in the island because of
(14:52):
the particular the ar for what we intend with the
meaning of the r so the micro climate, the altitude,
rain and the exposure and and so each each version
is totally different and and in each version during the day.
Speaker 2 (15:14):
One.
Speaker 5 (15:14):
The fourth season can occurs during an old day just
one day. And the difference between the version are are
done mainly from the from the altitude, of course, the
ends of the duc and the rain.
Speaker 4 (15:31):
So the southeast.
Speaker 5 (15:32):
Version is more raining, the northern version, I can say,
is more equilibread perhaps and then then the southwest is
really is really less in rain. And we have also
a small portion on the on the southern west version
sometimes at the dificul Idea where we produce just a
(15:55):
white wine, because that area is in particular for white
line is the highest in altitude is.
Speaker 4 (16:03):
The soil is more.
Speaker 5 (16:07):
Sand, not skeletric, but more sand, and the rain occurs
really really less compared to the northern and to the
south is verson we are on the northern slopes, so
between six hundred up to eight hundred meters, and our
when we started with both just a small small small
(16:29):
portion where the main quarter is where where the the
state is, with the two area of production, the old
one which is the old Falmento we restored and the
new production area we completed in two thy nineteen, and
so the main we started from five actors.
Speaker 4 (16:50):
Then they not they by the year. By years we
we reach.
Speaker 5 (16:56):
We reached twelve actors in the contrada and to Spirito,
so we are in contradacent to Spirito and the main
portion of actors are in contradacent to Spirito. Then we
have small parcels in always in Casilion and decision area
Sotor auto Braga, said gem feldmad the other one which
(17:19):
is Contrada Cavalier on the southern west version.
Speaker 4 (17:23):
Each contrada, as you told before, is.
Speaker 5 (17:25):
Different from the other for different reasons. But the most
important probably I can say, of course exposure the altitude.
But all contrata are different because the different eruptions which
(17:45):
occurred during the year one hundred years in the past.
They characterize the soil depending on what lava flow found
found during the flowing. So so each contrada is different
for this reason because of the soil is different. But
(18:09):
I started the studying the soil the contrata the terross
our vinner in contradas to Spirito, where we have this
state is characterized mainly from terrasis and also from an
eruption of eighteen seventy nine, and the soil in the
(18:32):
same contrada. I can say that in our contrada happens
what we can say happened in the different contrada. So
the differences are between one contrada to the others of
the contrada and to spirit of the metzo where the
olsa Lorenzo and so on, it occurs also in the
same contrada.
Speaker 4 (18:54):
So we in the same area, with the small difference of.
Speaker 5 (19:03):
Meters and terraces, we have soil totally different, more skeletric,
more fertile, and more more fat, soil with more organic elements.
And the wines are which in particular, and we we
produce a contradasan to spirit or Red because on ETRA
(19:26):
only the crew can take the name of the area
of production.
Speaker 4 (19:30):
And we produce a contradas to spirit or Red.
Speaker 5 (19:33):
But we studying the contrada, studying the soil, the different
soil terraces by teross we we we discovered that we
discovered and we produce. We did this this project or
producing from the same contrada three different wines of contrada.
There are three contrader wines red which have the name,
(19:56):
which have the name of the three parcels of the
map of the area. And they are three different wine
completely because one is closest to the It is closer
to the lava flows, so skelectric soil. One is more
fertile because this wine is produced by the central part
(20:17):
of the vineyard with all the terroces and the other
the four hundred and sixty four wine is close to
the gate where the soil is more fat, is rich
in organic elements, and also the wine is more i
want to say around it, but it is more bodied
(20:37):
compared to the the wine produced from the from the
area close to the lava soil, because there is a
skeletric soil. But of course it's always a Etna wine,
so sapidity and minerality. Sapidity, even if it is a
red wine, is always present. Minerality is sapidity, and verticality
(21:01):
is always present, even if it's a more rounded red wine.
Speaker 2 (21:08):
When we were in Etna days, one of the early
days there, we got we received an amazing overview from
scientists on the geography of Etna and the sub zones
and the history of lava flows, and it really is fascinating.
Everyone who lives in Enna always lives with the potential
shadow of another eruption. Everybody in fact, somebody said while
(21:32):
we were there, and we were there in September, it
could be happening next month. You know, you always live
with that. But the fact that with each lava flow
over time it changes the soils organic compositions is fascinating
because because then you have to adjust accordingly as you
(21:54):
move forward with the vines. Right, yeah, so interesting.
Speaker 1 (22:00):
Uh.
Speaker 2 (22:00):
We mentioned in the introduction that you also have a
number of priphilocks ungrafted vines. Talk to us about that
and how many, and talk to us about the wines
from those vines which we know are limited in production.
Speaker 5 (22:17):
Yes, as you know, Atna is one of the of
that there were viticulture. There were which were was not
affected by the outid of Philoscea because of the altitude
and because of the sand lava sand so Ana in
generally is one of the the land the viticulture area
(22:40):
which were so lucky, which was so lucky where where
we where with viticulture was not destroyed. So we we
cultivate only varietals, so the rella mascalez and carricante, so
the two blend in the vind mascales for the reds,
(23:00):
carrican and karata for the white. So the vineyard is
really really really old. Even if we buying some new
land which were not planted, we continue planting autoutomn varietals.
So we have wines free of roots and crafted and
prefiloce wines a particular, A parcel in particular is which
(23:25):
is the oldest. From this parcel we produce one filoxcella wine,
just one thousand and five hundred bottles more or less.
And we are trying to continue the genetic part of
the vines planting when we have to plant the new
(23:49):
wine from the old prefilox vines to respect the genetic
origin of the vine. So we're going to plant free
of roots. And because I feel, I think that that
I have having these these big can you say this
(24:14):
big jewel, I can say of having, of having autos
on varietals, these autos on varietals must be respected also
trying to plant themselves free of roots, to maintain and
to to maintain the same the same genetic or origin
(24:39):
and characteristic and yes philosizes they are.
Speaker 4 (24:46):
Our cultivation is called in quin Kongs.
Speaker 5 (24:49):
It means that the vines are planted one meter point
one more or less one from the other. So all
the works are done by hand and in the vinior,
so without machinery, and in particular the philos parcel is
a need to be respected using less less less internments
(25:12):
of man in the in the works in the vinior.
Speaker 2 (25:17):
Such incredible detail and seeing these David, so, David, you
and I were on we went at it together. But
then they had different itineraries, so they split David I up,
which was interesting, which was beneficial, And we saw different producers.
I know, I went to one producer and I saw
the beautiful prefuloxur vines and they're quite stunning. They were
(25:38):
almost like works of art, and so unique to very
specific areas of Europe because so much of Europe was
devastated the vines were devastated by phuloxa in the late
nineteenth century.
Speaker 3 (25:52):
That there are pockets all over Europe and the world
that still have Prefuloxa vines yea, and in Spain and
France and Sardinian system of course, and various other areas
of the world too, but they're small pockets. So yeah,
so those are really the only places that you get
the true identity of the grape that hasn't been that
hasn't been muddled in a way.
Speaker 2 (26:13):
Remember we saw some in the rwin.
Speaker 3 (26:14):
It was incredible, but I always find that fascinating.
Speaker 4 (26:19):
It was talking before about the lava flow, but in
these days we have eruptions.
Speaker 2 (26:26):
Really oh oh oh, well they said, they said late September.
But maybe you know it's interesting, you know, it was
really daunting Valerie, as we were. We we the day
we went up the mountain. It was too windy to
do the venicela, so we did a bus and we
went over to this beautiful crater and we saw we're
(26:48):
still some pieces of ice. As we descended our bus
descended down the slope, David pointed out a structure that
had clearly been overcome by lava.
Speaker 5 (27:00):
Law.
Speaker 2 (27:00):
You see these destroyed structures that are semi buried in
the soil or the sand now, and it reminds you
of the power that this volcano and that anyone who
has any kind of life and it could change in
the moment.
Speaker 4 (27:19):
Absolutely, I live in a volcano.
Speaker 5 (27:21):
But you you can see also on the northern version
where we are, in particular, also my my eruption, my eruptions,
the one which flows close to which flood close to
my vineyard, there is a small Towertretta Littleretta are a
small small small tower called the Torretta, which were destroyed
(27:43):
by the different eruptions. And so also now you can
see a small building in the viner which were destroyed
in the bus froma from law eruptions.
Speaker 2 (28:00):
M that's so wild. Right, Let's talk about some of
your wines. You have a wine called pre Filocera. It's
which you mentioned it. It's limited edition. We were able
to taste a few. First, we haven't talked about the Caracante,
which was a beautiful white cato. So let's talk about
(28:21):
what you make in the southern part, right, No, no, I.
Speaker 5 (28:25):
Have also a Contradstan to speed it to white first
vintage two thousand and twenty. But we have a b
which is is our, which is our first wine we produce.
Speaker 4 (28:36):
White wine.
Speaker 5 (28:37):
We produced in twenty twelve was the first vintage, and
then the contra on the other version. I think that
carry Conte well, perhaps Ana was known for the red wine.
But I think, but not only me, but we all
on ETNA, we think that carri Conte and white wine
(28:58):
is going and is going to be appreciated. Okay, but
we are discovering. I am discovering carri conte and very
good potentiality also in aging because our our classical life
white Okay, it goes on the market after four months
of still but the superior ones, so the the bianco
(29:22):
and the two contrada contra white and contradation to spirit
to white when go out in the market after two
years from the harvests. Because we think that aging in
instantly still times and aging in bottle is really really
really important for the wine. And and and cari conte
(29:46):
has good potentiality even if the first carry canta known
in the world wine was it is the the Carricunte
bianco superior from southern is a person. But not only
because we on the northern slopes produce very good white
wine too, but not me implemental sounds. So my my
(30:09):
friends producer and acta, we all produce the different white
wine depending on the verse and depending on the versa,
depending on the contrada. But carry conte as a beautiful
and good potentiality of aging.
Speaker 4 (30:23):
And I love.
Speaker 5 (30:24):
The white on Etna because perhaps because me too, I'm
discovering that white is as beautiful gives you beautiful emotion, dissipidity.
The verticality, then the crispy characteristics of the white wine
Ona are really stunning. I say, if I can say
(30:47):
studying in English for a wine, you can and we agree.
Speaker 3 (30:53):
I also and I've also fascinated by how well these
white wines on age.
Speaker 2 (30:59):
Yes, yes, you know, we're fascinated by white wines age well.
And they also go really well with the cuisine u
of the region and really quite beautiful. So for anyone
who has not had caraen coante is indigenous to Edna.
Now we've been to the Colorato, you can get other
parts of sicily. Yeah obviously, yeah, yes, underscore that.
Speaker 5 (31:24):
Yes, in fact, carricante, the caricante is the main varietal
a wine, a white wine on it and I must
have to be considered the OC. The minimum or percentage
of carricuante must be the sixty percent for a white
to be the OC and the rest.
Speaker 4 (31:45):
In my case, well, we have a wine with.
Speaker 5 (31:48):
Mostly more carricuant persons eighteen ninety percent and the rest
of the of the varietyl can be also another varietal,
but not an aromatic one. But in the old vineyard
all of us we have and catarata. Even if there
are a lot of producers who wanted to to start a.
Speaker 4 (32:09):
New project planting international.
Speaker 5 (32:13):
Rital at the moment, At the moment, I say, because
my daughter, as you told before, is going to reach me,
because in this moment, she is a completing university. She's
in she's in Montpellier, last year of university and then.
Speaker 4 (32:32):
She will be back on ETNA.
Speaker 5 (32:34):
But she's she's graduated in agriculture and the third the
three first year in agriculture and the other two in viticulture.
In in now in Montpellier. She is now Pelier doing
doing her last year, attending her last year.
Speaker 2 (32:52):
I'm curious you mentioned international varieties she considering her You know,
are there other inter national varieties that you would you
could cultivate or would consider that we do.
Speaker 5 (33:03):
Well, Yes, we can cultivate. Of course, there are a
lot of producers who planted the pinot or love. But
in this case the wine cannot be a dooc. Of course,
can be diu C for the red. It has the
eighty percent of netaloma scaleza and minimum sixty percent of
(33:25):
carric ante for the white. All the other varietals, of
course will not be diuc wine.
Speaker 4 (33:32):
But it's a.
Speaker 5 (33:33):
Philosophy everybody has different philosophy, and I respect the philosophy
of everybody. Each of us has different different ideas, different credo,
different view of of our own state and the wine
its own estate or wine.
Speaker 3 (33:56):
You know, we when we were visiting, we saw the
there was a lot of there was a lot of
ancient winemaking equipment. You have you obviously restored a palmento,
but you obviously also have a modern wine making facility.
At what point did you when you decided to start
your winery and build your winery, at what point did
(34:18):
you want to make sure that you preserve the old
ways of old ways of making wine as well to
make sure that that palmento moved forward into the future.
Speaker 5 (34:27):
Okay, when we bought the first small part of the
more or less five actors in contradscent Hospirito, we found
in the land the old plemento, this two building which
is the old plemento because the old owner used to
sell the rape.
Speaker 4 (34:43):
There wasn't an estate in that area.
Speaker 5 (34:46):
So we started managing with with the with the theosis.
Because we found the albarello on concrete posts, so we
moved the concrete post with the chestnut post to to
give to the Albarello is traditional history in cultivation and
(35:07):
the oldplemento we decided to start is adventure also for
deparmento to restore implemento because we are also in the
National Park of Vactina, and and we had to follow strictly,
strictly the rules to restore implemento. So we we're producing
supplemento with modern technology, so wood and we have a
(35:31):
sterized wood for the trunco conic barrels for the fermentation area,
and then the also barrel in the in the in
the cellar downstairs and the album from Talanso in French
choke and then all the still for the white and
also for the spumante because we produced the Metodo classical
(35:54):
first vintage two thousand and eighteen, but no Milesmato.
Speaker 4 (35:59):
So with with the adding of all of the.
Speaker 5 (36:02):
Same old wine and and so re isoplemento and and
trying to maintain because we tried to build. We build
it with the to follow the gravity system of viticulture.
Then we have the modern cantina, which is of course
(36:24):
more regular and it's it's uh more, it's easier to
work inside the new modern cantina compared to palmento.
Speaker 4 (36:35):
But it's really beautiful. Do the harvest.
Speaker 5 (36:40):
Insight plemento because everything is is uh is fascinating because
we have to move in particular way. You don't have
so many opportunity to do what you want in in
easy with easy movement. But it's really it's really fascinating.
Speaker 2 (37:00):
It really is fascinating. And I just was so taken
by the history of this area and said, Albarello, you
mentioned it, but I just want to under sure this
is a very historic way of vineyard cultivation using chestnut posts.
It's very unique too, and sometimes or no post at all,
and it's it's quite striking and very unique to Anna.
(37:25):
Are you working with who is your winemaker? And are
you working with a consulting winemaker?
Speaker 5 (37:30):
Yes, we have a consultant is nicologe andanse is from Marsala,
Sicily on the western.
Speaker 4 (37:37):
Part of Sicily.
Speaker 5 (37:39):
Is a young boy forty forty eight, forty seven, forty eight,
and he is with us with a long time. And
then we have also a continuera inside to continue inside.
But we have this nicola Is is really a beautiful person.
(38:02):
I can say at first because he stays with us
very often, so it comes every week for three days
per week, and then he helped me to study and
to understand because I am not I have not study
(38:23):
neither in agriculture nor in viticulture. My daughter will be
plenty of this information and notional study and knowledge. And
so I learned with him and.
Speaker 4 (38:37):
I did with him a small.
Speaker 5 (38:42):
Small steps to grow and to understand. Also some aspect
which can be not confidential for me. But I'm very
happy of his work with us.
Speaker 2 (39:01):
That's good because it's always good to have a good
team in place as you grow and develop. You know,
a lot of our listeners may be listening and thinking, wow,
I gotta go visit. I want to plan a visit.
As someone who has come back to Etna is now
living there, what would you say or some highlights that
(39:22):
you would recommend if someone is planning to come to
the area.
Speaker 4 (39:28):
Where to stay or what to visit? They didn't understand where.
Speaker 2 (39:31):
To stay, to to to visit? Just highlights that obviously
coming to your winery, But if you were planning a
visit to Edna, what are some okay places you would recommend?
Speaker 5 (39:42):
I think that we have started from we must you
have all they or them? How to start is a
mass visiting Etna with the vulcano, the volcano area, but
all the the the all the country around Thattna, the
(40:03):
viticulture area, the Arcanata area apart from Tourmina, but all
the area with around Ana, to do a scursion on
the lava, to do running, to do, also cycling on volcano,
skiing if you can during a skiing period.
Speaker 4 (40:25):
And then you have.
Speaker 5 (40:28):
The Alcantara River where you can walk in the river.
It's better in summer because the water is really really
really cold and if you have the boots that it's
really cold. Then the area of Tormina but from Etna
can be considered as starting a starting point to a
(40:52):
large like Apiov like an octopus, see all around and
visit and having different aspects of history, agriculture, Food of
food is important.
Speaker 4 (41:07):
Food is the first with wine and.
Speaker 5 (41:12):
Tourmina, but also not so far, not so close to
Ana or Dijauza, so starting.
Speaker 4 (41:20):
I think that.
Speaker 5 (41:22):
Ethna must be considered the starting point of a tour,
of a visit, of a trip and from Etna coming
back probably too every day every night on Etna area,
but coming from starting from Etna, going all around, you
have a hundreds of possibility to spend not only one
(41:46):
day today days one week, also one month. You have
so many things to do starting from also Poritanian ebrody,
the mountain chen.
Speaker 4 (41:57):
You could see in.
Speaker 5 (41:58):
Front of my wine. There is a lot to visit,
a lot, a lot, a lot of things. And then
you can go also to swim if if it's summer,
to do a trip in about.
Speaker 4 (42:12):
A lot of things, lots of things.
Speaker 3 (42:14):
And you know, one of the things I love about
it and is that in wine production there's a lot
of small producers.
Speaker 2 (42:19):
Yeah, very small producers. Family run, a lot of young producers,
as we said, you know, and it's got a long
history as a as a as a sense of place
in Sicily, but it's got a young history, a long
history in history as a place, but a young history
as a modern wine production area. So still for many
(42:43):
a discovery. Fortunately a number of the wine you know,
many of the wines are available in the United States.
In fact, who is your importer valeria.
Speaker 4 (42:51):
In New York.
Speaker 5 (42:52):
I have a Yako artisanal seller for a New York Vermon,
New Jersey, the of Long Island. Then we have Mucci,
and then I have different important in Virginia, Cima different
in another region estate and then we have also marked
(43:14):
the Gracia MDG selection which helped has another country, but
mainly it is a yako in New York at the moment.
Speaker 2 (43:25):
So your wines, Pomento stance ones are well distributed basically
in the United States, which is wonderful. You know, we
can't wait to go back. We hope you're back to
the end of the days. I think one of our
bucket list trips now has to be ski to see.
Speaker 3 (43:42):
So which means don't be afraid to go to in
the winter time.
Speaker 2 (43:44):
Yeah, I think it'd be great to go to in
the wintertime.
Speaker 4 (43:48):
Yeah, with the summer, spring, autumn.
Speaker 5 (43:51):
Each season has a particularity also for bity culture as
you can imagine, and you know, of course.
Speaker 3 (43:57):
And it's all good.
Speaker 2 (43:58):
Yeah, well, val we have so enjoyed speaking with you.
Thank you for joining us from Italy on the connected table.
For our listeners who'd like more information, the website is
Palmento Costanzo dot com and we appreciate your time and
we can't wait to come back and pay you a
visit when we return.
Speaker 5 (44:18):
Looking forward to receiving you, having you on ETNA and
I wish you best Christmas, holidays and the New year.
Speaker 2 (44:28):
Thank you so much, and thank you to you, and
thank you to all our listeners who follow us regularly
on the Connected Table. We enjoy bringing you the stories
of the dynamic people who are front and center behind
the scenes and wind food, spirits and hospitality as we
travel the world and hope to do more of and
as always, our message is stay insatiably curious. Thank you.
Speaker 3 (45:05):
Like what you're hearing on the Connected Table live but
short on time, then join us on our companion podcast series,
The Connected Table SIPs, featuring brief chats with movers and
shakers in fine food, beverage and hospitality. Grab a glass
with us and learn the latest on trends, products and vintages.
You can stream The Connected Table SIPs on iHeart, iTunes, Spotify, Pandora,
(45:27):
or any of your favorite podcast platforms. Join us The
Connected Table SIPs
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