Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast
Training and performance podcasts by Eric Hörst, the internationally renowned author, researcher, climbing coach, and climber of 40 years. Monthly podcasts detail the latest training techniques to improve strength, power, endurance, as well as mental and technical skills. With his unique combination of veteran experience and knowledge of the cutting-edge research, Eric presents practical, effective guidelines to climb harder, reduce injury risk, and maximize the experience of moving over stone. Eric is one of the world’s most knowledge climbing coaches and his eight books (and many foreign translations) have sold more than 300,000 copies worldwide. His latest book release is the 3rd edition of Training For Climbing. Learn more at: http://www.trainingforclimbing.com
Episodes
What does it take to break through to the next climbing grade?
With each new milestone, the challenge grows harder—but potentially more rewarding.
In this special collaboration with The Struggle Podcast, I coach Ryan Devlin as...
The podcast is a classic Eric Hörst tour de force of climbing wisdom! No matter your ability level, training background, or goals, listening to this episode will challenge your current approach and inspire you to reinvent your training for better results.
In this hour-long le...
In this episode, I reveal a powerful — and often overlooked — strategy for developing the mental, technical, and tactical skills needed to level up your climbing.
If you're an intermediate climber passionate about improving — or an advanced climber who's hit a plateau — then this is a must-listen episode.
Even veteran climbers and professionals can use this strategy to refine their skills and “sharpen the ...
Welcome to the first episode in a special series of performance-focused conversations with my friend, Dr. Thomas Cunningham. In this fast-paced discussion, we dive into a wide range of topics, including tips for optimizing climbing training, injury prevention, key dietary interventions, performance hacks, and the role of self-discipline and sacrifice. We also explore best practices tailored for hard-training climbers over 35. No ma...
Dear Listener, How about -- together -- we all try to SEND 2025?
In other words, let's try to upgrade our thoughts and actions in all we do to make 2025 our best year yet!
Towards this end, in this episode I will serve up tips for improving your training, elevating your climbing, and advancing in other important life areas!
RUNDOWN
0:15 - Eric's greetings...
0:45 - Introductory comments on striving to live your dream life...in clim...
In this brief episode, I invite you to join my "Send 2025" New Year's Challenge!
JOIN the SEND 2025 CHALLENGE by filling out this brief Google Form >>
I designed this free 6-week challenge to help motivate and inspire a fresh, focused, and optimistic start to the new year...and hopefully help you set off on your best year ever!
The challenge is action-oriented...
The title of this podcast may have you thinking "WTF?"
Well, this is a special episode of the T4C podcast...and I think you're going to really enjoy it!
THE Alex Megos has recently launched his own podcast, and during his recent visit to the States he asked me to sit down for a conversation about the history of training, personalized program design, nutrition and recovery, and much much more.
Of course, I was excited for this uniq...
In this episode, coach Hörst shares 13 little things that can make a BIG difference when it comes to sending your near limit—or, perhaps, beyond limit!—project boulder or route.
Quite often it's the tiniest of things that can make or break your ascent. Eric covers a lot of territories including the power of proper breathing, the best time of the day to send, the effects of food and drink on energy and focus, how to get the perfect ...
One of the ironies of climbing performance outcomes is that as hard as you've physically trained in preparation, the outcome often hinges on the quality of your mental game.
The power point, here, is that when it comes down to the final days and hours leading up to an important climb, the keys to performing your best are largely mental!
While many athletes "shoot themselves in the foot” in any number of ways in the days or hours le...
This 20-minute flash episode will delve briefly into two topics:
- 1. Popular training biohacks, including sauna use, cold plunge, and intermittent fasting.
- 2. The value of getting an occasional blood work-up to monitor how your health and performance-related biometrics change as a result of diet, training, and aging.
This episode features an interview I did earlier this year with Kush Khandelwal of The Ageless Athlete p...
This 15-minute flash episode will delve briefly into two topics:
- 1, Stretching for climbers -- learn what to do and when.
- 2. Recent injury trends...and the number #1 thing you can do to lower your injury risk.
This episode features an interview I did earlier this year with Kush Khandelwal of The Ageless Athlete podcast.
T4C Podcast sponsor ==> Visit PhysiVantage.com the leader in climbing-specific performance nut...
In this Flash episode, I'm going to talk briefly about raising happy, healthy kids with a passion for climbing!
There's no "right" way to raise kid climbers...but I'm going to share the approach that my wife and I used to develop well-rounded kids who, today as young adults (ages 22 and 24), love climbing more than ever!
This episode features an interview I did earlier this year with Kush Khandelwal of The Ageless Athlete podcast.
...This month, I'm serving up multiple "Flash Episodes" of the T4C podcast -- released weekly -- that you can consume in less than 20 minutes.
The topics covered in this first episode...include the pros/cons of online coaching...and a generalized look at how training (and nutrition) for climbers has changed over the last 40 years.
Upcoming Flash Episodes in September (released weekly) ...
What does it take to climb your first 5.13a? In this episode, you'll hear my recommendations for Ryan Devlin as he closes in on completing his first 5.13a, a Red River Gorge classic named "The Force".
This is a follow-up to episodes #86, #91, and #94, in which I coach Ryan through the long process of training for and working on his first-ever 5.13. You will hear where Ryan is at with his project--you'll learn some of his struggles ...
Many enthusiastic climbers work hard to level up their performance year over year, and
some of us invest great time, effort, and resources into pursuing our climbing goals.
One powerful tool for gaining a performance edge is the use of a functional medicine
approach to blood testing…which is the focus of this episode of the T4C podcast.
My expert guest joining us for this episode….is Thomas Cunningham, a Louisville
Kentucky-based d...
To celebrate the 100th episode of the T...
When it comes to climbing, no single piece of gear is more influential on your performance than your shoes. Getting the right shoe fit and feel for a given boulder or route is critical to climbing your best!
However, there are dozens of climbing shoes on the market with widely varying designs, looks, and prices. What's the right shoe(s) for your gym training and outdoor rock climbing? What features should you look for? How tight sh...
In this episode, Coach Hörst shares his recent unique training day in the Front Range of Colorado. Eric will contrast the remarkable late-afternoon workout of one of the world's top boulderers, Drew Ruana, with his own route-climbing workout a few hours earlier.
You will learn the fundamental differences between training for bouldering and route climbing, particularly concerning the energy systems that power climbing movements. Er...
The quality of your contact with the rock is paramount when it comes to climbing performance. Strong muscles, on-point technique, and a confident mindset won’t get you up a climb if you can’t hang onto the holds!
Many things affect the quality of your grip and the perceived “stickiness” of the holds – to begin with, there’s the texture of the rock and the degree of incut (or slope) to the hold. Weather conditions, such as temperatu...
Lean in dear listener...and enjoy the most transparent Training For Climbing podcast ever!
In this engaging episode, Coach Eric Hörst shares an in-depth analysis of his climbing weaknesses...and he reveals the specifics of his program to train for gains in 2024. Eric presents 4 primary action items of his winter training program, and he provides an assessment of his progress as of t...
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