Orujo Chef Carlos Portela Breaks All the Rules

IThis week on Flavors Unknown, I travel to San Juan, Puerto Rico to speak with Chef Carlos Portela, the visionary behind Orujo Taller de Gastronomía — a genre-defying restaurant where there’s no printed menu, no scripted experience, and no boundaries between kitchen and guest.

With up to 25 ever-evolving courses rooted in fire, fermentation, and emotionally charged memory, Chef Portela is redefining what Puerto Rican cuisine can be. From his decision to eliminate gas systems and cook exclusively over wood fire, to sourcing 100% local ingredients — even sending foragers into the wild — Carlos is building a culinary philosophy rooted in place, process, and presence.

In this episode, we explore:

• How his grandmother’s kitchen shaped his food philosophy
• Why he almost became a magician instead of a chef
• The story behind the name Orujo
• His approach to inspiration, failure, and reinvention
• Why cooking is not a job, but a way of life

This is a deep, raw, and radical conversation that challenges what a restaurant can be — and how chefs can reimagine identity through food.

What you’ll learn from Chef Carlos Portela

• 4:29 – Carlos Portela’s Early memories of Puerto Rican markets and cooking with his grandmother
• 6:42 – The philosophy he inherited from his grandmother’s kitchen
• 8:04 – Why he once dreamed of being a magician — and how cooking became his magic
• 8:18 – His classical culinary training at Johnson & Wales
• 10:59 – The meaning behind Orujo and its core mission
• 10:59 – Why each dish must include at least one local Caribbean ingredient
• 12:56 – Eliminating gas systems in favor of 100% wood-fire cooking
• 13:56 – How Orujo serves up to 30 courses — with no printed menu
• 13:56 – Calling each course an “inspiration,” not a dish
• 15:38 – Ensuring no two visits to Orujo are ever the same
• 16:22 – Exploring Puerto Rico’s rich varieties of root vegetables
• 18:44 – Culinary applications of local taro root
• 20:02 – How his team of foragers introduces wild ingredients weekly
• 25:54 – The rigorous conditioning process for new cooks
• 27:19 – Why Carlos Portela calls Orujo a “workshop,” not a restaurant
• 27:19 – The pushback he received when eliminating menus
• 32:15 – Weekly rituals: Tuesday deep cleaning, Wednesday ingredient drop
• 35:50 – The 1% of wild experiments that become breakthrough moments
• 36:50 – His mission to put Caribbean cuisine on the global stage
• 36:57 – The four cultural pillars influencing Puerto Rican food
• 40:27 – Why he resists the “Creole cuisine” label
• 42:56 – His cautionary take on “passion” in the kitchen
• 43:33 – Why, for Carlos, cooking is a lifestyle — not a job

Beyond the Mic: My Stories in Print

A Taste of Madagascar: Culinary Riches of the Red Island invites readers to join me on his unforgettable journey across the island of Madagascar, where a vibrant culture and stunning ecosystem intertwine to create an extraordinary culinary experience. Explore the unique ingredients and traditions that define Madagascar and discover their profound impact on the global culinary landscape. Alongside the captivating stories, the book presents a collection of exciting recipes that showcase the incredible flavors and ingredients of Madagascar.

Publication date: Tuesday, January 27, 2026

Pre-order the book here!

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