The Power Company Climbing Podcast

Employing good tactics is something all climbers should do, but there is a point at which continuing a tactical approach can slow your climbing gains.

That is, unless you make sure you don't skip this step...

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The Atomic Elements of Climbing Mo...

In my coaching and consultations with climbers, it’s become pretty obvious that there are common bouldering grade plateaus at around V4, V6 or 7, and V9 or 10, and that the vast majority of stuck boulderers fall into these three ranges.

There is a single, relatively small skillset that can help climbers break through these common bouldering grade plateaus – or even avoid them altogether.

And it's a skill you're often rewarded for A...

After working with thousands of sport climbers, I’ve noticed a pattern of climbers getting stuck at around 11c, then 12b, and again at 13a. One of the hallmarks of routes at these grade bottlenecks is that it gets harder to find stable positions. The climber who hopes to move further will need to be comfortable in that instability.

And while it's tempting to think that getting stronger is always the answer, in reality it’s only par...

Have you ever tried a hard climb or a hard move and immediately said, “I just need to get stronger,” but then a few attempts later you just do the thing?

Did you somehow magically get stronger in those few attempts?

No, of course not. A lot of things could have happened in those few attempts, but what didn’t happen is you gaining strength. 

We should know better than to use, “I just need to get stronger,” as an excuse to quit, but ...

When it comes to putting effort into climbing, there are 3 types of climber. All can be effective, but one type is ALWAYS better.

Which are you?

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Metrics for Climbers | Strength and Endurance Standards

How to Climb Harder: What Data From Over 6...

Not all training needs to be indoors. If you're lucky enough to be able to spend a large amount of your time outside, it might make sense to use some of that time for training rather than performance.

In this episode, Kris and Nate discuss examples of how we can do this without sacrificing our performance time.

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Climb ...

Toe-hooking is a technique that is very often misunderstood in two principal ways. This confusion leads to toe hooks seeming harder and more like sorcery than other techniques.

But you’re probably just going about it the wrong way. Most people don’t need to get stronger. They need to get better.

They need a better understanding of the move itself...

ANALYZE AND IMPROVE YOUR MOVEMENT ➡️ https://link.powercompanyclimbing.com/podmove

...

When I finished my 100th 5.13 sport climb and was writing a book about the lessons I learned along the way, something became clear to me.

There is one single skill that trumps all others when it comes to being able to climb 5.13.

It’s not better footwork, it’s not a stronger pull-up, and it’s not more finger strength. Those things can – and often do – play a big part.

But if you don’t have this one skill dialed in, those things may...

The length of time we spend working a project often depends on the strength of our projecting game – particularly what we do on those important working attempts. Many of us either keep working things when we should have sent weeks ago, or we cut off the working goes and start redpoint attempts way too early.

There's one simple thing that can result in the biggest performance gains in your climbing, no matter what level you’re at. And you can implement it right now.

I’m going to tell you not only what this simple superpower is, but also what the sports research says about how you can give it an even greater boost...

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Prompted by the phrase "Common sense isn't always common practice," from Trevor Ragan of Learner Lab, Nate and Kris sat down to discuss five aspects of climbing where they see this holding true. This is the final of those five aspects: principle vs. prescription in climbing training.

This episode originally aired on March 23, 2018.

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Prompted by the phrase "Common sense isn't always common practice," from Trevor Ragan of Learner Lab, Nate and Kris sat down to discuss five aspects of climbing where they see this holding true. This is the fourth of those five aspects: Training where you are currently instead of where you want to be.

Starting where you are is an important first step that is often missed. 

This episode originally aired on Ma...

Prompted by the phrase "Common sense isn't always common practice," from Trevor Ragan of Learner Lab, Nate and Kris sat down to discuss five aspects of climbing where they see this holding true. This is the third of those five aspects: should climbers generalize or specialize?

There is a time to grow your skill set, but it can also be appropriate to focus on one aspect of it. But how do we know when to do which?

Prompted by the phrase "Common sense isn't always common practice," from Trevor Ragan of Learner Lab, Nate and Kris sat down to discuss five aspects of climbing where they see this holding true. This is the second of those five aspects: the pros and cons of building a grade pyramid vs. a tower.

Is one better than the other? When is each appropriate? How might one or the other impact your future climbing?

T...

Prompted by the phrase "Common sense isn't always common practice," from Trevor Ragan of Learner Lab, Nate and Kris sat down to discuss five aspects of climbing where they see this holding true. This is the first of those five aspects: the Quality vs. Quantity Conundrum in Climbing.

So what is it, where does it often happen, and how can we make sure we are getting the right thing – quality or quantity – in our climbing?

Kris sits down in Wyoming with two absolute legends from the 80’s, Jibé Tribout and Arnould T’Kint, to talk about Patrick Edlinger and the birth of sport climbing as we know it. 

Belgian climbing legend Arnould T’Kint did the third 8a in the world, and the first outside of the US, as well as reportedly being the first to onsight 8a. 

Jibé Tribout is a French and world climbing legend who, through the 80’s and 90’s, was always at th...

Joy Black is a mother of three, and a strength and climbing coach specializing in working with pregnant and postpartum climbers. In this episode, Kris and Joy go trimester by trimester, looking at training and logistical considerations for pregnant climbers and their partners.

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Save 50% on your first month of Beta for the Bump training using code PCCBFTB at checkout!

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This is the final episode in this special series with host Emily Chen-Newton. In keeping with the themes of community-built and community-led, this episode features three truly incredible blind athletes leading the conversation. Emily takes a step back from the mic as Justin Salas, Seneida Biendarra, and Chaz Misuraca carry us through a conversation about each of their unique and ongoing journeys with vision loss and how climbing –...