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What would give you the courage to quit a good job, one you had worked hard to get, and always thought you wanted but discovered maybe wasn’t very good for you? And what happens when a German structural engineer reaches for surfing to help heal a broken heart and discovers an altogether healthier way of seeing and her living life?
Before learning to surf "I was the same. I spent a lot of money for things I actually don't need to impress people I don't like."
~Lena G
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Interview Transcript
My name is Maia Dery.
This episode is part of a series called the Waves to Wisdom Interviews.
The project is a simple one. I seek out people I admire, surfers with what look to me to be ocean-centered wisdom practices. I ask them if they’d be willing to share a surf session or two, and then, after we’ve ridden some waves together, talk to me about their oceanic habits, surfing, work, meaning, and anything else that comes up.
What would give you the courage to quit a good job, one you had worked hard to get, and always thought you wanted but discovered maybe wasn’t very good for you? And what happens when a German structural engineer reaches for surfing to help heal a broken heart and discovers an altogether healthier way of seeing and her living life?
Lena: Oh my god, I remember these wipe-outs, I thought I could never do it, and then after two hours, so hard work, then you catch a wave and you’re standing on your surfboard and you think like, “Oh my god, I can do it! It’s possible.” and you just have to believe in it and don’t give up and this is the same in life now when I have moments where I’m struggling, like the bad things happen, I’m so sad, I’m lost and I remember surfing, and I know, no, it’s gonna be good, there will be, don’t, don’t look to the broken wave, to the whitewater, look, look to the horizon, in the ocean and there will be more, so many more green beautiful clean waves coming for you and you just have to wait and be patient
Lena and I found one another by accident, in the waves of Nosara, Costa Rica. We developed the sort of fast, thrilling friendship that comes from sharing passion for a beloved activity and intense experiences, both beautiful and challenging. The time we spent getting to know one another trading and often sharing waves in the gentle Pacific swells of that idyllic tropical surf break was inspiring and Lena’s story of crafting balance in her body and life taught me a great deal. I hope you learn something valuable as well.
Maia: If you are comfortable with it you tell us your name and your age and how long you’ve been surfing.
Lena: OK, my name is Lena, I’m now 33 years old I’m a Pisces, I think that’s why I love water and I am surfing since 6 years.
Maia: 6 years, OK and you are from Germany?
Lena: I am from Germany, yeah.
Maia: And we are speaking, we’re having this beautiful conversation in a magical setting [oh my goodness, yeah], will you tell whoever’s listening a little bit about where we are?
Lena: Yeah, so right now we’re sitting, actually, in the jungle, the sun is shining the temperature, sometimes I forget that it’s the middle of January, it’s so cold right now in Germany and we’re sitting, we’re almost don’t wear, like, anything it’s hot but it just feels wonderful on your skin and when I look up, like I see the sun shining through all this lush nature, it’s a simple place, it’s a little juice bar in the jungle and it just feels wonderful, it’s paradise.
Maia: It is paradise, isn’t it? Um,