Blamo!

Blamo!

Step into the vibrant and dynamic world of fashion, design, and unparalleled creativity with Blamo!, the podcast that invites you to journey alongside host Jeremy Kirkland as he unveils the stories, inspirations, and craftsmanship of visionaries shaping the world of fashion and culture. Get ready for an immersive exploration of the fashion and culture realm that goes beyond the surface and delves deep into the minds behind the garments, music, and the things we all can't get enough of.

Episodes

July 25, 2024 14 mins

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How does one become a bespoke tailor? 

Herrie Son is one of the few bespoke cutters left in the United States. She started at the London College of Fashion, where she focused on handcraft tailoring, and then did some work for Thom Sweeney and Welsh and Jefferies. She then flew back to the US and opened an independent bespoke tailoring shop in Nashville, Tennessee. 

Derek and Peter talk to her about what it'...

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My guest this week is Tom Kay, founder of the outdoor brand Finisterre

A brand born in 2003 from the needs of hardy British surfers, Finisterre designs functional and sustainable products for those who share a love of the sea.

In this week's pod, Tom and I discuss what drives design, wetsuits, surfing, and how to make an outdoor brand. We also chat about repairs, collabs, and how to unwind.

https://finisterre.com

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My guest this week is bootmaker Graham Ebner.

Graham has become one of the most talked about artisans of the past few years—a team of one, making bespoke boots by hand in his small workshop in Austin, Texas.

Graham talks about bespoke bootmaking, working at the legendary Texas Traditions under Lee Miller, why he takes things slow, dealing with waiting lists, gatekeeping, and classic cowboy style.

Graham Ebner on Instagram

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Shoemaker Nicholas Templeman has been working with Derek for nearly ten years and is one of the best artisans he has ever used. So it was about time that Derek and Peter invited him to an episode for a chat.

Nicholas shares his career as a bespoke shoemaker, his process, and more. Dig in!
 

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Listen to the entire episode and on the Blamo! Patreon 

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June 24, 2024 85 mins

The return of author W. David Marx!

David and I get back into it! Our first pod was a year and a half ago, and you’re welcome to dig into it.

Recorded in Tokyo, David and I discuss his upcoming book, indie music, craftsmanship, getting dressed, artists vs creators, and Tailor Caid. The ramble begins now!

Culture: An Owners Manual

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June 17, 2024 56 mins

My guest this week is Adam Brown, founder of Orlebar Brown

Adam and I discuss how the brand was created organically, evolving past swimwear, holiday travel, retail, the perfect day, and what’s next for the brand.

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Recently, Peter asked Derek to elaborate a bit more on the concept of path dependency in clothing and getting dressed. For what it's worth, path dependence is a social science concept that relates to why we do the things we do.

e.g. Why do we wear jeans and why are they blue?

The original thread is here

Derek admits it's a nerdy way of looking at clothes, but this is Die, Workwear! and the insight we all lov...

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June 10, 2024 73 mins

This week's guest is Nicolas Gabard, founder of the Parisian brand and tailoring house Husbands.

Founded in 2012, Husbands is one of the brands behind the new wave of tailoring. Their suits are cut with a strong silhouette, generous lapels, wider trousers and are incredibly chic.

Nicolas and I discuss the origins of Husbands, style vs fashion, how to give directions to clients, how to wear black clothing,his philosophy on fashion, an...

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June 3, 2024 57 mins

My guest this week is Nathaniel Asseraf, co-founder of Casatlantic.

Nathaniel and I discuss the legendary vintage store, Broadway & Sons, founding Casatlantic, Ralph Lauren University, vintage vs thrift, how to make a proper fit guide, seasons vs constants, and making clothes for a global audience. 

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Since at least 2010, menswear writers have been predicting—perhaps secretly hoping for—the end of the slim-fit trend. But it wasn't until January 2016, when Raf Simons debuted his first collection after leaving his directorial role at Dior, that things started to change. Since then, big fits have cropped everywhere, from J. Crew's giant chinos to Jerry Lorenzo's Armani-sized tailoring. If you're just sta...

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The fit-god and industry legend is on Blamo!

As the co-founder of United Arrows in 1989, Kurino-san has been in front and behind the scenes of retail and men’s fashion for almost 50 years. He has seen countless changes and evolutions in the industry and remains as optimistic as ever. 

Kurino-san and I discuss growing up studying iconography, his love of music, his approach to getting dressed (take notes), the stores that inspired Uni...

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My guest this week is David Cho.

David is almost always one of the people behind what you love, from podcasts, journalism, and media he’s been an intricate part of THE INTERNET. It's kind of wild to think about, tbh.

David and I chat about media diets, getting introspective, why the internet is hungry for earnestness, his previous career at Grantland and The Awl, and his new project, Postcard.

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WARNING – This may be the first and only menswear podcast episode on how to dress more like Mark Zuckerberg.

In what feels like one of the biggest PR turns in the last year, Zuck’s style improvement has generated considerable online chatter and even a recent New York Times profile.

Peter and Derek discuss how Zuck’s style has improved and—if you can believe it—what style lessons people can take away. 

Has Ma...

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Todd Snyder is back for the Three-peat!

Todd and I chat about his recent Pitti Uomo shows, what keeps him up at night, how to do a collab right, working with Sperry, and being the return of big fits.

Sperry by Todd Snyder Collection

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April 22, 2024 63 mins

My guests this week are Taylor Rice and Ryan Hahn of the band Local Natives.

We chat getting into Steely Dan, LCD Soundsystem will never break up, albums as a format, life on the road, grief, Oasis, 90s music, and their new album But I’ll Wait For You

https://localnatives.com

Watch the video for "April"

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Quality tailoring begins with quality materials. 

This week, Peter and Derek talk to Virgil Viret, the managing director of  Lafayette Saltiel Drapiers in Paris. Their shop is a destination spot for bespoke tailors, custom clothiers, and menswear aficionados worldwide, particularly since they have an amazing stockpile of vintage textiles. 

Peter and Derek talk to Virgil about the structure of the fabric tra...

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Chase Pion and Quaid Walker are the founders of the watch marketplace app Bezel.

We chat about why buying a watch these days has been so hard, why they decided to launch Bezel, dealing with authentication, brands they’ve changed their opinion on, the perfect three watch collection, and watch auctions.

https://www.getbezel.com

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We talk a lot about clothing on this show...I mean, Blamo! is a show about people wearing clothes. Sometimes, we’re trying to figure ourselves out through clothing, solving a problem with the world, flexing our design knowledge, or even all of the above.

But what about designing clothing that lasts 100 years or even for climates outside of Earth? Still there? Enter Vollebak.

My guest this week is Steve Tidball, of Vollebak, a brand h...

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There has been much discussion about the slow death of shopping in San Francisco’s downtown district. The decline has been years in the making, with Brooks Brothers, Ralph Lauren, Macy’s, and Nordstrom, all heading elsewhere or shutting down entirely in the area. Why?

Peter and Derek discuss what would bring people back to a brick-and-mortar experience in shopping and what they would like to see themselves...

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My guest this week is Albert Muzquiz.

You might know him as Edgy Albert or the guy in your feed telling you what pants to wear. He's the real dude, and I'm glad he is here.

Albert and I chat about how he became the "Jean Daddy" of the internet, visiting Levi's Archive, his acting career, sick French knives, and LBJ the play.

Albert on TikTok

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