Fast Science: Why Can’t You Treat Blonde, Gray, or Red Hair with Laser Hair Removal?

Episode Transcript
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(00:00):
Hey, my laser loving friends, welcometo laser secrets, the podcast.

(00:04):
That's all about giving you theknowledge, confidence, and skills.
You need to be the best laseraesthetic practitioner possible.
I'm your host, Jamie.
I'm a laser obsessed med spa owner.
medical esthetician, laserspecialist, and passionate educator
in the world of medical aesthetics.
Today's episode is part of my Fast Scienceseries, where we take a closer look at

(00:28):
laser concepts and make them simple,actionable, and easy to understand.
And today's topic, it's oneI get asked about all the
time, and I'm sure you do too.
Why can't laser hair removal workon blonde, gray, white, or red hair?
Okay, so if you've ever had aclient sit in your chair asking,
but what about my light blonde hair?

(00:49):
Or is there a laserthat works on gray hair?
This episode is for you.
So let's clear up the confusion anddelve into the real science behind why
lasers and light colored hair don't mix.
To understand why laser hair removaldoesn't work on blonde, white, or
gray hair, we first need to explorethe fundamental principles on
how laser hair removal operates.

(01:10):
Laser hair removal relies on a processcalled Selective photothermolysis,
which is a technical term meaningthe laser targets a specific
color or chromophore in the skin.
It delivers heat that destroysthe hair follicle while
sparing the surrounding tissue.
For hair removal, thechromophore we target is melanin.

(01:31):
The pigment responsible forthe color of hair and skin.
Here's the straightforward breakdown.
The laser emits a specific wavelengthof light, such as our alexandrite
755, 1064 ND/YAG, or diode 810.
This light seeks out melanin inthe hair follicle, is absorbed
by it, and converts into heat.

(01:52):
This heat then damages the follicle.
It denatures that bulb area andthe lining of the hair follicle,
inhibiting it from producing new hair.
So it basically kills the follicle.
I like to say neutralize whenI'm talking to clients though.
It sounds a little friendlier.
So what is the issuewith blonder gray hair?

(02:14):
Essentially, they lack sufficientmelanin for the laser to detect.
So, going back to our t shirt analogy,wearing a black t shirt versus a white
t shirt on a warm sunny day, thatblack t shirt is going to absorb the
sun's heat and become warmer, similarto how dark hair absorbs laser energy.

(02:36):
The white t shirt actually reflectsthe sun and remains cool, just as
gray, white, blonde hair, reflectthe laser instead of absorbing it.
Essentially, no melanin means noabsorption, which leads to no heat
delivery, which results in no follicledamage and no permanent hair reduction.

(02:58):
So, okay, we understand that for blonde,white, gray hair, but what about red hair?
Because red hair does have pigment.
here's the nuance with red hair.
Red hair does contain a type of melanin,but it's pheomelanin, not eumelanin.
Eumelanin is that black and brownpigment that is super effective

(03:22):
at absorbing laser energy.
Pheomelanin is a red and yellow pigment.
It does not absorb laserenergy as efficiently.
So, it's kind of like that t shirt again.
think of, you know, instead of thewhite t shirt, that maybe it's a,
yellow t shirt or light orange t shirt.
You're still not going to get, thatenergy absorption or, heat absorption

(03:49):
with a yellow or orange t shirtwhere you would a black t shirt.
So, while some darker shades of redhair might experience reduction,
true redheads are unlikely to seesignificant results with hair removal.
And here's the thing that can happenalso, like say that hair follicle
heats just a little bit and justdamages the follicle, you could have

(04:12):
a reduction in the thickness of hair.
And we see that also with even, darkercolored hair, if we don't use enough
energy where you're actually damagingthe follicle, and then the hair is
still growing back, but it's wispier.
So you may see that happening.
now, I get asked all the time too, arethere any workarounds for light hair?

(04:35):
Really, the answer is not with traditionallaser technology, and here's why.
So first of all, I've had lots ofquestions on, but what about 1064 ND/YAG?
Because it's our workhorse laser,it penetrates deeper into the skin.
But really, this heavilystill relies on melanin.
to absorb that laser energy, andthis makes it super ineffective

(04:58):
for that light colored hair.
Also, IPL, intense pulse light, orBBL, broadband light, which is, you
know, one and the same, essentially.
these devices also depend on melaninabsorption and are similarly ineffective
for blonde, gray, and red hair.
And then this is a weird one, butI've had questions about this and

(05:18):
I've also seen some cringy stuffon TikTok and Instagram about this.
Why don't you, as a workaround,dye the hair before treatment?
Okay, so this does not work.
An artificial pigmentonly coats the hair shaft.
It doesn't reach the follicle.
And this is where the laser targets.

(05:40):
And actually by doing this, youcould actually put the person at
risk for a burn, because that isgoing to artificially just heat the
outside and not, do biologicallywhat actual hair with melanin does.
So, the alternative solution for, apermanent hair removal, electrolysis.

(06:01):
This method involves inserting a fineprobe into each hair follicle and
delivering an electrical current todestroy the growth center of the hair.
So unlike lasers, electrolysisdoes not rely on melanin.
And so it's effective on all haircolors, including blonde, gray and
red, and it happens to be the only FDAapproved permanent hair removal method

(06:21):
for light colored hair, something tokeep in mind if you have a practice
that you do not have electrolysis at
maybe recommend, if you guys dowaxing or sugaring, that could be a
really great solution for that client.
But really have a very real conversationwith them and educate them on, it's
not that you do not want to treatthem as a client, it's because It

(06:45):
will not be effective and I guaranteeyou having a very real conversation,
but educating them and giving them,the information about it, they will
understand and appreciate your honesty.
Another aspect of having, great resultswith laser hair removal is proper cooling.

(07:06):
So let's talk about this a little bit.
So regardless of hair coloring.
Proper cooling is essential.
So this is for before andafter laser treatments.
And the reason why is because it protectsthe skin from overheating and creating
injury to the tissuearound the hair follicle.
So this helps to reduce therisk of burns or discomfort.

(07:30):
this does minimize the pain anddiscomfort during the procedure,
and it decreases inflammation,so this promotes faster recovery.
Many modern laser systems are equippedwith built in cooling mechanisms such as a
contact cooler or cold air like a zimmer.
this safeguards the skin during treatment.

(07:50):
If your laser device lacks a builtin cooling feature, applying a cold
compress to the treatment area forabout 2 minutes before the procedure
can really enhance the client comfort.
And protect that skin and my practice,we use the quanta light star, for
our platform that we do hair removalwith, and we use the alexandrite
or the 1064 ND/YAG, but our laserplatform actually has a cooling plate

(08:15):
on the laser hair removal attachment.
So we utilize that.
contact cooling along withchilled ultrasound gel.
And we get really great results.
post cooling is super important as well.
So immediately following the treatment,it's very beneficial to either apply
a cold compress or a soothing gel.
if you have that contactcooler, this helps to alleviate

(08:37):
redness and calm the skin.
In my practice, we absolutely love, usingElta MD's laser enzyme gel post procedure.
It gives additional cooling, plushas a skin conditioning effect.
also being sure that you'revery, good with your post care.
So, making sure they're not doing any sortof, time in the sun right after we say,

(09:00):
a week before you do anything in the sun.
And even then, like using atleast a 50 SPF, 24 to 48 hours
for excessive, heat as well.
So sauna, steam room, jacuzzi, superhot showers, hot yoga, things like that.
And just being nice to their skin.
No sugar scrubs, saltscrubs, anything like that.

(09:22):
but really when you're, advising wellon post care, using that cooling, you're
going to have a really great effect.
Because really, we want to treat asaggressive enough to have a great result.
like I said in my last episode,safely aggressive is always The
goal, but making sure you'reusing super safe settings as well.

(09:42):
test those settings out on yourself,test them out on other team members.
making sure, your laser iscalibrated effectively as well.
All of this will make all the difference.
So my laser loving friends, that wrapsup today's fast science episode on laser
hair removal, and I hope it's been useful.

(10:03):
If you enjoyed this episode, pleasesubscribe, leave a review and share
it with your fellow aesthetic pros.
And if you have questions,suggestions, or are interested.
So if you're interested in workingwith me directly, DM on Instagram
@Laser_Secrets_Consulting.
Until next time, stay confident,stay curious, and here's to having
the best laser results ever.

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.css-14f5ked{margin:0;word-break:break-word;display:-webkit-box;-webkit-box-orient:vertical;box-orient:vertical;-webkit-line-clamp:2;overflow:hidden;}Fast Science: Why Can’t You Treat Blonde, Gray, or Red Hair with Laser Hair Removal?