Surf Stories
In both Q and A and narrative format, we will hear stories from local surfers, filmmakers from around the world, and inspiring and/or charismatic folks who have a story to share. John Brooks and Kevin Miller will host in-person and Zoom-recorded chats.
Episodes
July 16, 2025 • 64 mins
Lakey Peterson is a professional surfer from Santa Barbara, California, known for her progressive aerial maneuvers and athletic approach to surfing. She began surfing at a young age and quickly rose through the ranks, winning multiple NSSA titles and becoming a force on the World Surf League (WSL) Championship Tour. Beyond her competitive achievements, Lakey is also an advocate for environmental causes and children's cancer researc...
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July 2, 2025 • 66 mins
Richard Yelland's Birth of the Endless Summer starring Dick Metz is a masterpiece. Cataloguing the inimitable journeyman's anecdotes, love affairs, and risky passages across the globe in the late fifties and beyond, Richard puts his documentary chops on display along with priceless photos and interviews with key players in what played a massive role in Bruce Brown's denouement in The Endless Summer. Listen in to how Richard found...
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June 17, 2025 • 50 mins
The birth of Wave Tools became an instant curiosity when Robert Helphand and Tony Gentile interviewed Lance Collins for a different project back in 2018. That interview ignited a documentary project seven years in the making called Shaping the Future. Robert and Tony detailed the engineering and design of new shapes and techniques, and brought to cinematic life the loud, aggressive logos and surfing, all heavily photographed on ...
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June 2, 2025 • 92 mins
For those of you who didn't get to listen to Ben Whyte and Ali Mancuso on Episode 68 - Breaking Waves Sailing, don't fret, you can always go back and listen first, but it's not necessary. They have a wonderful story to tell here about crossing the pacific as rookies on a 41' sailboat named Kiana. Through an unexpected dry dock on a reef and a month long sabbatical near Tavarua, as well as some empty anchorages in paradise, you'l...
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May 17, 2025 • 61 mins
A writer first, Dan developed a love for surfing in the cold San Francisco water and turned heavily towards his move to Florida in his latest work On a Rising Swell, a memoir slash collection of his best work with surfing as a central character. Take the time to read this fantastic rendering from the mind of one of surfing's best new contributors. Our chat covers his stories and inspiration as well as his humble, positive, and so...
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May 1, 2025 • 87 mins
Sam George, surfer, writer, and filmmaker, has entertained readers and audiences with his gift of storytelling for years. The stories take many forms and many new threads come alive in his new work Child of Storms - A Surfing Memoir (In Progress), available at diangelopublications.com. In addition to this writer's life, he's also made one of the best documentary films about surfing that no one has seen. It premiered at Cannes Fi...
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April 17, 2025 • 100 mins
Greg Geiselman, an immigrant from the Bahamas, dropped out of a full-ride swimming scholarship as a result of a full-blown case of the surfing disease. Nothing would get in his way. He possesses the gift of absolute discipline and focus. From swimming at a world-class level to months-long Mexico runs, to shaping blanks and running the first East Coast shaping machine, he created Orion Surfboards, one of the most successful local...
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April 1, 2025 • 82 mins
Kohl Christensen figured out a way to chase waves and make a living, much like many of us do, only the waves he chases are about 6 times larger than the biggest wave we've ever encountered. Immediately, we think of his 2019 skull-shattering wipeout at Pipeline, and next, about the organization he co-founded with friends to help people in exactly that kind of situation. BWRAG (Big Wave Risk Assessment Group) trains and equips us t...
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March 16, 2025 • 92 mins
Longtime New Smyrna Beach surfer, Jim Morris, joins us for a conversation about growing up brined and seasoned in Florida waters. He evolved into an aficionado of surfboard shaping and shapers and put his surf-to-live attitude in first position. Everything afterward fell right into place, leaving us with a few quality stories to meander through on this podcast. Enjoy.
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March 2, 2025 • 59 mins
For Floridians, stepping up in critical, big waves is expected given the groundwork laid by Cory Lopez, among others. The hard yard gains came from Pete Lopez white-knuckling to Sebastian every weekend from the west coast of Florida, punching through orange grove shore pound and six-hour round-trip runs. Big or small, kegging or not, Cory defined grit and guts along side Andy Irons, battling Kelly and others in a critical time of...
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February 19, 2025 • 68 mins
Mitch Varnes fused his passion for surfing and work ethic to make a career in public affairs with NASA and a career in surf journalism and athlete management. Aside from managing CJ and Damien Hobgood and Lisa Anderson’s career for a time, he’s been creating and managing distance running and triathlons. Check in here with Mitch for a couple Puerto Rico surf stories…. Enjoy.
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February 2, 2025 • 72 mins
Rob Machado's career momentum strayed from some of his peers and led him off tour and toward brand ambassadorships with some incredible people and companies who make sure we will find him in the surf regularly and hopefully on screen. We've been lucky enough to share quite a few great movies with Rob's effortless style, good humor, and memorable waves. We're so lucky to have the opportunity to hear some surf stories from the man ...
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January 16, 2025 • 69 mins
For over 30 years, Emmy award winning photojournalist Bob Campi has been documenting news and entertainment from places like Afghanistan Iraq, The Middle East and The Oscars. During the COVID, crisis he set out to Hawaii to create a meaningful, lasting documentary about iconic shaper Dick Brewer, a larger than life personality who for 5 decades put his craft and engineering skills to use by changing the way waves were ridden not on...
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January 3, 2025 • 65 mins
Alex Mecl, CEO and Executive Producer at Bruce Brown Films, discusses his early motivation to work with Bruce and his family to ensure Bruce's work is disseminated to the world in perpetuity at little to no cost. Alex shares the details behind what it takes to run and connect all the right people and ideas to keep the enduring the stories rolling on camera and off, including working with Surfing's Evolution and Preservation Founda...
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December 16, 2024 • 65 mins
Thoreau said something like, "My friends have come unsought." Sometimes, when luck is on your side, a nice person will come into your life, and it just fits, and you want that energy around you like sunshine and good waves. Each time you have a conversation, surf, or round of golf with Bruce Reynolds @surfinista, you'll feel some of this good fortune. His story and visual art share a sense of what it is to be a Floridian surfer who...
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December 5, 2024 • 64 mins
From the skinny brine of Mosquito Lagoon to north beach’s relief at Ponce Inlet, Evan Geiselman has almost completed his back-to-the-sea, full-reptilian transformation. Fish-hunter, professional surfer, and... golfer? Yes, a damn fine golfer. The miracle at Pipeline rebirth-ed our very own stoked slayer of dragons back to life -- revitalized, refocused, and performing surface attacks and aerial artistry on our beloved stages, New S...
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November 10, 2024 • 93 mins
Long-time shaper and Floridian, Randy Richenberg, joins us for a chat finally. A true technician in the practical nuances of fins, channel bottom, and other designs, Randy has put to use years of experience in the water, New Smyrna Beach's side of Ponce Inlet especially. He rides shortboards to this day to refine the biomimicry used on his proprietary fin designs, taken from marine life's evolutionary advantages. Listen in to Big R...
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November 2, 2024 • 115 mins
In 2012 during a Spring Break in Costa Rica, the Lundequam family checked a surf spot and opted for a zip line tour while the tide changed. Halfway across the canyon, the guide appeared to drop a hoodie, and then back on platform two, Brett and Anne Marie heard the echo of gut-wrenching screams. Thirteen year-old, Matt, had become detached and disappeared deep into the rainforest. Listen in on this paradisiacal vacation turned nigh...
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October 16, 2024 • 74 mins
In 1995, John Ashley set up camp at a left point in Baja, where he met Kevin, and the bromance began. Based out of Imperial Beach, John camped, surfed, kited, sup'd, rode motorcycles, learned to fly fish, and now, shares those adventures with friends and clients. We reminisced a lot, so please excuse our nostalgia, but many of you may find some joy in these bits of Baja. Make your adventure happen. john@palapasventana.com Find him ...
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October 2, 2024 • 61 mins
The Australian influence on American surfing, personified by the soul-arching Peter "PT" Townend, continues... PT talks early Florida competitions, Teahupo'o's Olympics, Big Wednesday, and his strategy for Timmy Turner's Second Thoughts. He's releasing a book soon to feature his ten favorite surf photos, full of stories and essays. The impact PT has had on the general stoke level of our culture, young and old, is truly immeasurable...
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