The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast

Kat Lumby is a Sport and Exercise Psychologist in Training (SEPiT) out of Wales, UK who works with all kinds of athletes, especially climbers and surfers. She has been a climbing coach for many years and has been able to take her skills to the next level with her SEPiT education. In this episode she talks about the specific kind of therapy she uses with athletes to deal with fear (and other barriers to performance). It’s called Rat...

I recently received an email from someone asking for a podcast episode that talked about resting. They wanted to know how elite/pro level climbers spend their rest days, how often they rest when they’re projecting, when they’re training, and generally just how they think about rest. So I reached out to a bunch of elite climbers and got 13 responses to these three questions:

1. How many days a week do you rest when you’re project...

In this episode, Coach Alex Stiger talks about her experience being coached by Alex Puccio and Robin O’Leary (ROAP) for the past 6 months and what it’s done for her climbing. She started board climbing 2 grades harder and has improved her outdoor climbing experience as well because of the coaching she received. Alex strongly believes in the benefits of being coached and talks a little bit about being coached for the video game Star...

Collin McGee (@liftsmcgee) is a personal trainer and coach at C4HP with Dr. Tyler Nelson. He is also a personal trainer and coach to athletes of all sports, ages, and abilities and he has a firm grasp on how to become a stronger, better athlete no matter what your objectives are. In this episode he breaks down the basics of training and how to get better at climbing even if you have a busy schedule. Here’s what he covers:

• Asse...

Doug Hartman is a 46-year-old ER doctor from Oakland, CA who is married with 2 kids. He’s a busy guy, but he figured out how to optimize his training and climbing in order to send his first 5.13a at the age of 46. He’s going to tell you the main things he learned from podcasts and coaches that helped him the most, and a little bit of advice about how to be a good spouse and parent, even when you’re a passion...

This interview with Jeff Rotkoff is about how he used simple information from the TrainingBeta Podcast to improve his climbing. Jeff is a 46-year-old climber from Austin, Texas, who has a full-time job and 13-year-old twins. So he’s a busy guy. He started climbing seriously about 9 years ago and started making these changes a few years ago.

He learned one nutrition tip from me and one weightlifting tip from Matt from this podcast a...

Coach Matt Pincus recently got back from a 7-week trip to Margalef, Spain, where he intended to get into projecting mode and climb 5.14. It turns out that the weather was rainy and he didn’t reach that goal, but he came away from the trip with some insights about his own climbing and some wisdom for the rest of us. Matt is taking a few new clients right now if you’re interested in working with him on your own climbing training. Yo...

I recently asked my audience to tell me about their climbing training success stories so I could present them on the podcast, and I got some good ones! This story from Lea Cleary stood out to me and I think you're going to love it.

Lea is a 40-year-old woman from Boston who's been climbing for 15 years. She felt like she'd plateaued due to fear and performance anxiety. While she'd tried our Performance Route Training Program and ma...

Madeleine Crane is a Sport Psychologist from Austria who runs www.climbingpsychology.com. In this episode we discussed the mental and emotional struggles that many people encounter while projecting climbs. Hopefully this discussion will help you bring awareness to your own mental experience and give you some tools to deal with fear of failure, negative comparison to others, and knowing when to call it quits on a project.

Madeleine ...

Alex Bridgewater is a Sport Psychologist who works with climbers and other athletes to help them be the best person they can be. That work carries over into their sport to make them perform well and have a great time doing it. He uses mindfulness, acceptance, and commitment theory as part of his practice, and in this episode we dive into what that means.

Alex is also a climbing coach at ClimbStrong.com and has been for about 7 year...

Steve Bechtel is one of the OG big daddies of climbing training. He founded and runs climbstrong.com where he has 19 coaches helping climbers all over the world get better at their sport. He’s written countless books, a ton of online climbing training programs for climbstrong, he’s hosted training seminars around the US (that I had the pleasure of teaching at), and is an accomplished 5.14 climber himself.

He was my 7th guest on the...

Meghan Walker is a very good friend of mine who is also somewhat of an expert in the FIRE (Financial Independence Retire Early) world. I asked her to be on the show to educate you about how you can make changes to your spending and investing/saving habits in order to have financial freedom in a lot less time than you think it’s going to take.

In a recent episode, I talked about how my husband and I started working towards an earlie...

In this episode Coach Alex Stiger and I talk openly about what we learned in 2024 about ourselves and our climbing, for better or for worse. We each chose the 5 most poignant things we learned and discussed each in depth.

Alex’s List

1. She realized she’d been protecting herself from fear and discomfort for a long time – wants to break out of that
2. Managing stress load outside of climbing and how that affects her climbing
3. Neurodiv...

In this episode I do a full mindset coaching session with Nathaniel Lamont, a Canadian climber whose performance is being affected by his fear of falling above his bolt while lead climbing. This is such a common issue among climbers, so if you or someone you know struggles with this, please listen to this one!

We go through the reasons he’s afraid, we acknowledge and validate those reasons, and I help him figure out ways he can fee...

Francis Sanzaro is a 45-year-old climber out of Carbondale, Colorado who's been climbing for about 30 years. He got his PhD in the Philosophy of Religion and has been studying the practice of Zen for decades. In recent years, he started applying Zen more directly and intentionally to his climbing and found that his performance and his enjoyment of the sport increased dramatically, so he wrote a book about it: The Zen of Climbing. I...

Coach Matt Pincus discusses some drills he uses with his clients and himself to train the different energy systems in climbing: power endurance, strength, and endurance. 

More Details:

• Overview of the energy systems
• Differences between practice sessions and performance sessions
• Sample sessions
  • Power endurance session
  • Endurance Session
  • Strength/Power Session
• When you'd want to train each of these energy systems
• How m...

Ashley Hardy is a friend of mine who lives in Boulder and just climbed her first 5.13c, a stout climb called "Choose Life" in the Flatirons. The reason I asked her to be on the show is that I find her situation to be both relatable and inspirational. The relatable part is that she has a full-time job as a software engineer and that she climbs with her husband, and she really REALLY loves climbing. 

The inspirational part is that de...

Coach Matt Pincus discusses the fundamentals of using weight lifting as a training strategy for climbing. He prescribes weight training to almost all of the athletes he coaches, and he wanted to make it more approachable and understandable to our audience.

More Details:

• Why Strength Train?
• Why consistency is more important than improving your numbers
• How (and why) to make it supplemental to your climbing and not the main focus
• ...