Episode Transcript
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Foreign.
Episode of travel in 10, wewandered through the streets of Paris
with Oliver Gee, the host ofthe popular Earful Tower podcast.
A great look at Paris and allthe things to see and do in the city
that Oliver's been doing forseveral years now, doing a weekly
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podcast series on the best ofParis, uncovering sort of hidden
corners, secret histories, thekind of stories that make you feel
like you're already there.
Today we're stepping evenfurther into Parisian life, into
the heart of its flavors, itscolors and sounds, by starting off
with exploring some of thecity's iconic markets.
And I find as we were talkingabout in our theme this week, in
a second trip to a city,getting to some of its markets is
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really one of the best ways toreally experience local life.
I love to rent a place whenI'm in a city like this where it
has a kitchen where you canget fresh produce, fresh market finds,
bring it back and actuallyexperience cooking when you're in
a city like this as well.
And of course, Paris probablyunlike any other city in the world
in terms of being known forits culinary experiences, there are
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some great cooking classes youcan do.
One we came across on our lasttrip was a place called Le Tellier
des Chefs, has a couple ofdifferent locations throughout the
city with cooking coursesrunning regularly.
I've tried to go to it twicenow, but wasn't able to because we
didn't book in advance.
So if a cooking course issomething you're interested while
you're in town, I would checkout Le Tellier des Chefs in advance
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and try and book your cookingclass ahead of time.
But what we want to start offtalking about today is really getting
out and exploring some of the,some of the best markets in the city.
And I had a chance to stopthrough some three during one of
my most recent trips to Paris.
The first was a place calledBastille Market.
This is or Marche Bastille.
This is open on Thursdays andSundays, kind of from early morning
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to early afternoon near the Bastille.
It's one of the biggest, mostpopular open air markets in Paris.
It stretches along a wide open boulevard.
You're going to find freshproduce here, artisanal cheeses,
charcuterie, seafood, freshflowers, a great selection of ready
to eat street food.
Also a few stalls selling morethings like clothing and kitchenware.
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But food really is very muchthe focus here.
And Sunday, I would say is thelivelier day and where you're going
to find the most merchants.
So I think of the threemarkets, this was probably My favorite.
And if you're in Paris on aSunday, I would definitely recommend
checking out Bastille.
Another popular market is onecalled Marche des Enfans Rouge.
This is one that operates fromTuesday to Sunday in the third district.
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And this is the oldest coveredmarket in Paris.
This dates back to 1615.
Really sort of a cozy,bustling, very much foodie focused.
This is less of a traditionalproduce market and more, more kind
of a collection of highquality food stands and mini restaurants
offering global cuisine andFrench favorites, of course.
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Burger Fermier was one of myfavorite places.
One of the best burgers I'veever had.
You pull up, pull up right tothe kitchen there.
And great, great place to stopfor a burger as you're passing through
town.
But they had Moroccan,Japanese, fresh pasta, lots of different
specialty shops, lots of greatFrench wine and a great atmosphere.
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And that, that really is whatI would say that you come to this
market for is the atmosphere.
Great place to go at lunchtime.
It's going to be busy, packedwith both locals and tourists at
communal tables.
So that makes it kind of a funexperience to meet with some locals
or some other travelers aswell when you stop by the market.
The third is probably the mostauthentic local market that I went
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to was Marche d'.
Aligre.
This is again, this oneoperates Tuesdays to Sundays, kind
of early in the morning toearly afternoon.
This is in the 12th district.
Kind of a cool part of town.
Very much a mix of kind of aoutdoor produce market with an indoor
covered market as well.
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And at this market, I had achance to stop and talk to one of
the vendors and get his takeon what some of the best food experiences
in the city are.
And also talk a little bitabout what you're going to experience
at the market.
It's, it's not too touristy.
There's not many well knownplace in the 12th.
Yeah.
But there are really greatrestaurant there.
There is this market.
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And what's the name of this market.
That we're at right now?
It's called Marche Bovu.
So the Bovo Market.
But most of most people callit the Marche d'.
Aligre.
Yeah, Aligre is the name ofthe neighborhood.
Okay.
And yeah, it's really wellknown for its food and food related
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propositions.
So there are many, many chefswho go around here and many, many
locals go to market every day.
It's not something we still,still do in France.
Like there are many, manymarkets everywhere.
Yeah.
But it's mainly either forshow or for tradition.
And we don't want to get ridof them.
Yeah.
Here people actually go hereand buy things to eat with their
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children on the evening.
It's really.
It might seem normal, but it's not.
I'm the only person I've knowncarrying around a camera today.
Like everybody else looks likethey are here every day.
It's a good moment to discoverlike the real.
The real, so to speak, Paris.
Yeah.
Because almost everybody leftfor the holidays.
Yeah.
So now you have the realParisians, like people who live here
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and they don't live every timethey have like two days free, you
know.
Yeah.
So.
Yeah, but there are many, manypeople with camera on a day to day
basis because I guess themarket is famous.
But we have a lot ofCanadians, we have a lot of Japanese.
Don't know why, a lot of Americans.
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And so, yeah, it's a good mixof people who live here and.
And make the neighborhood whatit is.
So a real place in Paris, youknow, not the Champs Elysees or not.
Right.
I don't know.
Place I pretty much never go to.
Yeah.
And the other part is.
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So, yeah, Americans, Canadiansand so on who want to discover like
French food and Frenchproducts and so on.
So in terms of French fruit,French products, what are some things
that people should.
Should like definitely seekout and try when they're here?
It's difficult.
My shop is actually dedicatedto pretty much everything but French
food, actually.
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So.
So we.
Well, let's talk about thename of your shop first.
It's Sirlex.
It means on the docks.
On the docks.
Okay.
Yeah, I guess it's a reference.
I just started working here actually.
Not just.
It's been a year.
Okay.
And it's been founded like 25years ago.
It's a reference to the Seine,where the products used to come in
Paris by the river, you know,so on the docks.
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And yeah, it's reference also to.
We import products fromproducts from all around the world.
Yeah.
Mainly the Mediterranean area.
Because.
Because.
Because it's the best food inthe world.
Yeah.
Let's face it.
And.
But we have also other things.
I have like a Japanese products.
And so.
Yeah, I bought your JapaneseSeven Spice.
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You told me that's one of your best.
Yes, it's wonderful.
And I saw you've got yuzujuice, which can be hard to find
sometimes.
We have a lot of things with yuzu.
People love it.
Like I have this kind ofthings, like.
I don't know how to say it.
Like it's confit.
Yuzu.
Confit kind of candy.
Candy yuzu and.
Yeah but the.
The shop is.
Had been founded around theolive oil thing.
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It's.
It's.
Everything turns around olive oil.
It's a big thing in front inEurope, in South Europe, Southern
Europe mainly.
So yeah, we are specialists ofolive oil but we have so many other
things.
If you want a real, realFrench thing.
The so Metro Rotisserie andthe Marie Bovo are two of the biggest
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stands stalls in the market shops.
Yeah, in the market like nowit's calm but around midday the queue
goes to like it goes outsidethe market.
Really.
Yeah, it's really, really wellknown and there are not this one
but fish stand.
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He's.
It's a generation.
Generational thing.
You know.
The current owner bought itfrom his father who bought it from
his father and so again it's areal thing, you know.
It's not just for sure.
Yeah they've been here for,for a long time.
It's.
It's kind of cool also.
I just started working hereand it's hard to get in their world.
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Yeah.
That the real deal.
They're kind of harsh sometimes.
They're the real people.
They get up at like three inthe morning and they.
You know.
Yeah.
And I like it.
It's a.
It's real.
Sometimes they're kind of rudeto people, you know, it's just.
Yeah, I know.
I have the best thing.
So.
Yeah.
If you don't want it, if youdon't have like two minutes to wait,
why like just go to the next hall?
Yeah, yeah.
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And yeah, maybe it's a French thing.
Many people don't like it butI kind of feel.
I kind of like it.
It's just how we do things I guess.
So outside the market Inoticed there's sort of like antiques
and sort of a bit of a fleamarket on the outside.
Is that here every day or juston the weekend?
Yeah, it's every day.
Every morning.
Every morning except for Monday.
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Monday the market is closed.
Okay.
And we're open from Tuesday totomorrow to Sunday.
And the flea market is.
Yeah, every day except Mondayonly in.
The morning and you open aboutat least today.
It was about 9 in the morningwhen I show up when things were first
started opening up.
Yeah, many people like the,the fish store, the chicken and so
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on St. Open earlier becausethey have a lot of things to do.
Yeah, I think they open maybearound 6 or 7.
But the market opens at 8:30.
I think I open at 9:30 cuz I'm lazy.
But yeah.
It's 9 to 1pm and then 4pm to8pm okay, so opens are 8.
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Yeah, it's kind of like inSpain, you know, we have like our
own.
Yes.
Siesta.
Yeah.
You were telling me this wholeneighborhood is a bit of a foodie
neighborhood around herebeyond just the market.
And the market stalls itself.
Any highlights places youwould recommend that I should check
out on my tour around?
Pretty much.
So it's called the Place d'.
Aligre.
So the Allegro Square.
Yes.
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You have La Rue d'.
Aligre.
Aligre street.
It's when you live by here yougo on the left and the whole street
is that in the morning it'shard to see, see because they are
the.
The outside market.
So it's kind of messy.
Yeah, but the whole street is.
You have like Arabic pastries,you have a cheese stores, amazing
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cheese stores.
You have really good restaurants.
You have other kind ofdelicatessen kind of things.
Really nice.
On the.
On the end of it you have aplace called Sabah, which is like
my main.
I guess I'm advertising it.
But main antagonists.
Like he does the same thing I do.
But it's.
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There's so much small thingsand it's more oriented Africa and
really nice place.
So Rue d' Ligo parallel to this.
It's Rue Cote, same thing, butonly restaurants.
Okay.
And really, really nice placefrom Thailand, Vietnam, Pizza place,
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so on.
So what else, what else was.
You have to like just movearound the neighborhood.
Like the main street overthere is called Boulevard St. Antoine.
Okay.
It's a big street.
Who links?
Place de la Nation Place.
So really, really big place.
And Place de Bastille.
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Yeah.
And the whole boulevard, thewhole street is filled with good
restaurants from delicatessenlike my own.
And.
And so.
And so you have just to move around.
It's really quiet and.
And cool neighborhood too.
Is that Marais?
Is that the name of that neighborhood?
As you get to place the Bastille.
Around that area, Marais kindof starts.
Yeah, it starts at Bastille.
Yeah, we're not in theMarriott right now.
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Yeah, it starts around Basiand it goes to Hotel de Ville.
So the City hall.
I walked around that area lastnight and lots of great restaurants
and cool shops.
It's.
It's a really, really great place.
But it's the opposite of here.
It's the Paris.
It's a touristy Paris and notin a bad way.
It's nice.
Yeah, it's really crowded andreally famous brand stores.
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And yeah, here it's.
This is much More local.
Yeah, it's chill.
Yeah.
You know, you just walk by,you rest someplace.
There are a lot of littlecafes and so on.
It's more.
It's why I like it.
I'm not from.
From Paris.
I come from the south.
And I didn't like Paris in the beginning.
And when I discovered here, Iwent there because I used to work
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for the government.
Don't ask me why I do that.
And then I discovered the 12thand I fell in love.
It's really.
It reminds me of my place.
It doesn't feel like Paris.
It feels like a medium town insouthern France.
I love it.
People do seem to really identify.
Like last night I was talkingwith someone who lives in the 11th,
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and they love the 11th.
You talk about this whole thing.
People really seem to identifywith their local district.
It means a lot here.
It's a real thing.
We have each arrondissement,pretty much each has its own identity.
The northern part of Paris isso different from the southern part.
Is there a bit of rivalrybetween the districts?
Yeah, kind of, yeah, if it's a rivalry.
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But there's places in Paris Iwould never leave in, you know, and
my friends live in them.
And when we talk about it,like in the evening with a.
So it can.
The debate can eat up, youknow, like.
No, no, not the 80s.
It's horrible.
It's terrible.
Too noisy.
It smells.
I don't know.
Here it's kind of the.
My friends think is like the.
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The old part of price.
Like, they're only old people,you know.
Yeah, that's quite.
And yeah, so.
And then pretty much prefer the.
The, like the Marais part,where there's, I don't know, music
and.
Yeah.
Party or so.
Or the northern parties isusually part, like the 18th or the
20th, which are.
Which are great places, butit's more dedicated to, like, a party
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and maybe hearts.
I have many, like, friends whoare painters and so on, and they
have their studios over there,so it's cool too, but it's not the
same.
I prefer food, so I prefer.
Ali.
Yes.
So I did want to do a bit of afoodie tour today.
Would you say.
Did I pick the right market oris there another part of town in
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addition to this one?
Another one that's worth.
There's many, but I. I wentto, if you want to like, a completely
different vibe.
But I loved it.
I. I went to do like adelivery in the city, 7th arrondissement,
which is like one of the richest.
That's where the Eiffel Tower is.
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Yeah, it's and I, I never go there.
I don't have to eat on theother part of Paris and I had to,
to do a delivery over thereand when I was in the subway I went
ah, I don't want to go there.
It sucks.
And it's actually really,really nice.
So you can go to EcoleMilitaire, some military school home.
It's the name of the station.
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Okay.
And there's the street calledso C L E R I think street.
And it's a walking area.
There's no cars and they arelike the, it's dedicated to food
again but much more likefamous names like the biggest chocolate
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makers in jeans.
Biggest.
I don't know, pastry makersbecause restaurant.
It's a really, really niceplace to, to walk by again.
It doesn't feel that much like Paris.
It's.
It's quiet, it's really clean.
Yeah.
Which is odd.
Parachute.
Yeah.
And yeah, I loved it.
So yeah, you could, you couldtry this one.
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But markets, there's so many.
There's this St. Quentinmarket in the 10th I think which
is a, a bit bigger than here.
I don't like it that much butit's a good place too.
Yeah.
And there's a lot of outsidemarkets especially in the weekend.
We have Saturday now.
So you just walk by, you canfind something terrific.
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So hopefully those threeoverviews of three different markets
in the city between Bastille,between Marche des Enfants, Rouge
and Marche d' Aligre gives yousome three great markets to check
out when you're in the city.
But want to go a bit beyondjust markets in this episode and
talk about just a couple offinal things here as we look at the
second trip to Paris and someof our best recommendations.
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And one of them is aroundwhere to stay.
And we had a great propertythat my daughter and I, we were,
we were there for 16thbirthday here earlier this year and
came across a great boutiquehotel called Hotel 34B.
And this is part of a chain ofboutique hotels.
Astotel is the, is the chainthat, that operates them a number
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of kind of three and four starhotels throughout the city.
Really well priced but moder,great amenities, great design and
they've got some really coolfeatures at these hotels.
One of them is a free minibarin your room with the kind of non
alcoholic drinks and snacksthat you can get anytime you like.
Which, which is a nice bonusto have as you're traveling in Paris.
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Many of their, theirproperties are in great locations.
They've all got kind of uniquefeatures, they're really kind of
incorporating the localneighborhood, local art.
So I. I really, really enjoyedthis chain.
And, and one other kind ofreally interesting aspect of it is
that they had this kind offree afternoon gathering where everyone
in the hotel could come downfor coffee and afternoon snacks free
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of charge.
And if you were staying at anyone of their chain hotels throughout
the city, I think They've gotabout 10 to 15 properties throughout
the city.
You could go to the happy hourat any of the properties throughout
the city.
So as you were travelingaround, you were looking for just
a quick stop in the afternoonwas a great way to do that as well.
So would highly recommendHotel 34B.
But also just checking out allof the hotels in the same chain,
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that ast hotel chainthroughout Paris and some great properties
there.
Finally, I want to talk aboutone can't miss which again, during
our weekend that we were therefor my daughter's birthday, she really
wanted to go check out some ofthe jazz clubs of Paris.
And we stumbled across a greatone, a place called Cavaux de la
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Hachette.
This was open till probablythree in the morning, four in the
morning, every night we werethere, and almost every night we
were in Paris.
We ended up there and ended upthere until it closed.
Great live music, greatatmosphere, really inexpensive, just
made for a great night out anda great atmosphere.
So to close out today'sepisode, we'll leave you with a little
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bit of music and a little bitof a flavor of what you would experience
at Cabo de la Hachette.