Episode Transcript
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(00:03):
Welcome to After Wine School, the podcast that demystifies wine and makes it approachable for everyone.
Join Keith Wallace and Alana Zerbe, two of the nation's leading wine experts, as they uncork everything you need to know about wine, from picking the right bottle to mastering unforgettable food and wine pairings.
This isn't about stuffy lectures or confusing jargon.
(00:26):
It's about enjoying wine the way it's meant to be.
So grab a glass And let's dive in.
Don't forget to subscribe to After Wine School today.
Hello, hello, hello folks.
Welcome to After School, the Wine Podcast.
(00:48):
Okay, I'm Alana Zerbe, the Director of Wine Education at the Wine School of Philadelphia, and joining me is Mr.
Keith Wallace, the Founder and Director of the Wine School of Philadelphia.
Now, we are sponsored by the National Wine School, the premier online education body, and The legal disclaimer, as always.
(01:11):
Please! Okay.
What is it? The views and opinions expressed here are purely our own, and should not reflect the views and opinions And that's coming from someone who, one of the best white instructors I know, also former lawyer.
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And apparently I've said some things on this podcast that probably I shouldn't have.
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Indeed.
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Indeed.
(01:37):
It's not surprising.
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And it will happen again.
Oh, it's going to happen every time.
The question is, what am I going to say? And I don't even know it.
.999apparently some people do, like tweet out, or X out, sorry, certain things I've said, not just here, but actually in class, and apparently there's people who actually want to ask our t shirts, but, you know, I said, please don't do that.
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No swag, no swag.
(01:59):
So Keith, today I have a question to ask you.
I don't want to know what it is.
You do.
No, I don't.
actually one of your favorite things to talk about.
Oh, me? Yes.
Oh, excellent.
So, I was born into a very WASPy family, back in 1825.
Okay.
I've aged very well.
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Wow.
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Yeah, yeah.
(02:20):
.999Thank you.
So, this is a great podcast.
I love this.
Is that the wine? That's amazing.
It's the wine.
it's also just my general, outlook in life.
Great.
Yeah.
Well, you seem teed up perfectly.
Okay.
To talk about terroir.
Oh, come on.
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no.
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That's a setup.
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It's my least favorite word.
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It's my least favorite word.
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So one of the things I do in class, and if you ever take a class with me, especially if you're in a small class with me, one of the first things I do is I basically line everybody up.
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Everyone's sitting, well actually they're sitting in their seats.
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But I do ask Everybody to repeat after me, terroir is bullshit, terroir is bullshit.
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Now, because it is, caveat, 98 percent of the time, 99.
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9 percent of the time, I'll even go that far, that terroir is bullshit.
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You know, here, okay, let me back up for a second.
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Okay.
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maybe you should, yeah, yeah, yeah.
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Actually, how about you, would you like to describe, Define terms for us.
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what is terroir? What's the classical, the classical definition of terroir? Well, I like Matt Kramer, old school.
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His definition of terroir is when a wine has a some where ness.
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It speaks of a place.
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It's not generic.
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It can't be mass produced.
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It's the unique stamp of a region and it's, climate, precipitation, sunlight, drainage, everything that happened in this small little place in one year.
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That's what the wine should display.
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Okay, absolutely.
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Right.
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That is true.
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except for the fact that a lot of the same elements are only small percentages of the output.
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here's the thing.
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Absolutely.
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these do change the flavor of wine.
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So if you grow a grape on this side of the road and then another acre on the other side you make wine to them.
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They're gonna be a little bit different.
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There's no arguing that point but It's gonna be such a slight difference.
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That's gonna be negligible now The biggest difference of any wine is actually the bacteria load.
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Now, this is what we know, I believe in science.
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I do.
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I believe in what we can prove, what we can show.
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And one of the things we can show consistently is that if you are fermenting with native yeasts, you are going to have a very specific flavors.
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that's only gonna be replicated if you have those specific native yeasts.
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We've replicated all those native yeasts and you can buy them.
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I can buy any yeast, almost.
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Anywhere in the world.
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And if I can't buy it, I can actually contract someone to make it for me.
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So I can take those yeast, that bacteria load, the yeast load, replicate that anywhere in the world.
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And I have done this for when, once we have like advanced small yeast coming in, you know, they've been with us for a long time that I, you know, that they're like in the last final year of classes, sometimes they get cocky and I've had students who just like.
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And they are really good, but they still feel like they know the differences.
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what I'll do is I'll pull a bottle of white Burgundy, a really beautiful one, a Montrachet.
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And then I will grab another bottle from Australia.
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It's actually a French winemaker who's using, the identical same techniques from Montrachet, but also he's imported and uses only those yeasts.
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that wine is identical.
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when you have them taste it blind, you can't tell the difference.
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Okay Keith, so as you're talking, I am picturing some very specific French winemakers.
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Yes.
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And their faces are turning more and more red with every word.
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Yes.
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At this point, they would definitely just throw you out of their winery.
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Yes.
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What would those folks counter? What would they say to you that you might be missing? Most winemakers, behind the scenes, when we talk together, we will all admit these things.
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We'll all admit that we will talk sometimes about place and how great it is, but we'll also have an understanding that the majority of things that we're doing, The yeast we're using, the techniques we're using, how we're harvesting, everything, how, you know, how, how, whether you green harvest or not, how you prune, all these things have a much larger effect than place.
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We'll all admit that in private.
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We can't do that in public because the public at large really wants to know why.
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They're spending 150 for this cabernet from this specific vineyard and 20 for another.
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Like, they have to have a reason other than it's just more expensive because more people want it.
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Or it's more exclusive, there's less of it.
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Like, they don't want to hear economics of winemaking.
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They want to hear there's a real specific difference in somehow it's sold.
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they don't want to hear about clonal differences, which is another huge difference, but okay.
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Let me get back to this.
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I'm sorry.
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I'm sorry.
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You asked me about Terroir.
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was doing.
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No one should ever ask me about Terroir.
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This is a one and done.
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Keith is grumpy.
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He gets to talk about things he hates.
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Oh, podcast.
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Oh no.
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So, When everything else is equal, when everything else is equal, if we separate out all our techniques and all the things we do to make wines, there will always be some wines that we can't explain why they're great.
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There will always be, and I agree with that, like that is true, that there's always going to be a space.
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Base for terroir.
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True terroir.
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There's gonna be, there is something that our science, our knowledge, maybe it will in the future, but right now it can't identify.
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we also have, we do know that we have, AI that's, starting to identify variations in things that we didn't even notice.
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And we may have this, that there is in fact, these elements, these differences.
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Now, From a bottle that can be traced back to a specific exact.
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exactly.
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That's exactly right So this is true.
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This is absolutely true now But the thing is that that is always going to be a tiny percentage of wines And it's better to actually say terroir is bullshit To say most of what we're hearing when people use that term is not true That allows us to really Open ourselves up for the moment when it is true because there have been moments where Even though I've been teaching about wine for training professionals for 20 years and I went to school for winemaking.
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I was a winemaker for a good long time Like I know so much But I still always learn more true, but there's always this moment.
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There's always one every four or five years I have a wine like I don't know why this is so great.
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Like I know everything they're doing I Can taste all that but there's something else.
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There's this one spark here.
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There's one amazing beautiful thing.
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That's here that I don't know why it's here.
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It just it lifts me up and such joy.
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it's like reading you know the ten commandments like the first time you like look at that and you're the first person to look at like Oh, really neighbor's ass what but That moment of revelation, whatever it is for everybody, you know, whatever that moment is that aha, ah, you know, that thing.
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And I get to have that because I know what it isn't.
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And I think that's very important too.
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And I just want to say something that happens every year in the winemaking class, and I think it's absolutely fascinating is, and you'll see this, that there are some people.
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Who, for whatever reason, you've literally said the yeast is happy when they're there.
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Yes.
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So there is this ephemeral side to things, simply that we haven't quantified everything.
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We don't understand everything.
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And I think yeast could be pulled towards certain energies or whatever it is.
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so there's so much that we don't know.
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That's true too.
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That's really true and you're right I do say that because it's true.
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Some people just have that thing.
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I've heard it.
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They're nearby and it's always interesting and it's, somebody you don't expect it to be.
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And you're like, Oh, is that because you're a good person? I don't think that I trust dogs.
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And he used to tell me who's good and who's bad in the world.
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actually think it has nothing to Okay, maybe it's just what kind of, laundry detergent they use.
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Well, I Okay.
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I think we've arrived at a place that you've definitely put your view out there.
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Yeah.
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And, but also left room for the mystery, and I think why we, Are so passionate when something is amazing because it is it does feel like a miracle Oh, yeah, every time I make wine even with my students teaching them how to make wine.
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It's amazing It is it's such I know all the science, but the fact is that when it happens, you know It just feels like magic every time it is so wonderful the experience i'll never trade it You know, but it's just like being fully vetted into the world and not expecting it to be magic But it still feels like magic and that's wonderful.
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It always should be like magic Now speaking of magic.
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Yes Speaking of magic, that is created by completely and utterly precise winemaking.
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After wine school is proudly supported by the National Wine School, the gold standard, and professional wine certifications, whether you're dreaming of a career in the wine industry or just eager to take your wine knowledge to the next level, the National Wine School has you covered.
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Their programs are trusted, rigorous, and designed for aspiring wine pros like you.
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Visit Wine School us to learn more and start your journey today.
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Certainly, we do have a very special wine today.
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We are trying a Sancerre, and this is a wonderful producer, Henri Bourgeois.
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The bottle that we have is Le Côte de Montdanais.
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nice, let's see if you could pour that for us.
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All right.
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Well, I'm not gonna have to thank you the magic of the energy internets.
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Oh Fantastic.
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Oh, this is fine.
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All right.
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I do love Sancerre.
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So can we gently cheers? Cheers? There we are All right.
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Now, let's let's give this a nice swirl Everyone should know their, their S's.
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C, swirl, sniff, sip.
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All that.
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Alright, so.
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Alright.
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Precise winemaking.
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I'm old enough to remember when Sancerre just smelled like cat pee.
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Like I remember that.
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Yeah.
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you do mention that.
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Yeah, I do.
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they changed how they made wine.
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They, they now, instead of allowing.
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Your bunch is to be covered by leaves.
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They actually make sure to strip them out which decreases your amount of pyrazine in your grapes sunlight does break it down And then in that cat pee smell anyone who's ever had a cat have you ever had a cat? I have not, You know that male cat pee smell, like when they're marking a territory.
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oh my God, it's nasty.
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But yeah.
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Sunset used to have that.
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People used to like that.
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And, I did not, I really did not.
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I thought it was New Zealand, Sauvignon Blanc, Oh, they, they did.
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They had the same problem, but Sincere did it way before that.
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Oh yeah.
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Oh yeah.
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No, they were not.
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And then when they, over the last, you know, 30 years, they've really cleaned out their winemaking.
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Got it.
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Yep.
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But yeah, no, New Zealand had that when they started out.
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It was gross too.
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so what are we smelling? all right, so like, so when you have a low level pyrazine, they're using it like as a master painter, like you're leaving that little bit of greenness as freshness underneath.
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So it is really smelling more floral.
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And, what, what are you getting? I mean, you're probably getting the same floral or how would you expand on that? I get white floral notes, almost, Like a tea rose, one of those, arrows.
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Tea rose? Yeah.
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00:14:56,534.24089441 --> 00:15:00,54.23989441
What is that? The heirloom roses that actually have fragrance.
214
00:15:00,84.23989441 --> 00:15:01,14.24089441
Oh, yeah.
215
00:15:01,24.24089441 --> 00:15:02,554.24089441
They're really, really lovely.
216
00:15:03,184.24089441 --> 00:15:08,14.24089441
I mean, there's also for me lemongrass, some underripe, like, peaches.
217
00:15:08,104.24089441 --> 00:15:09,414.24089441
Oh, yeah.
218
00:15:09,514.24089441 --> 00:15:09,984.24089441
plum.
219
00:15:10,204.24089441 --> 00:15:16,94.24089441
It's nice because there's this very serious, herbaceous, but floral note underneath.
220
00:15:16,954.24089441 --> 00:15:23,4.23989441
But then on top of it is this nice fruit, but it's, that slightly underripe, but also a little bit of underripe, green apple, too.
221
00:15:23,194.24089441 --> 00:15:23,294.24089441
Yes.
222
00:15:23,384.24089441 --> 00:15:24,394.24089441
I really like this.
223
00:15:24,434.24089441 --> 00:15:25,244.24089441
of minerality.
224
00:15:25,314.24089441 --> 00:15:25,604.24189441
Oh, yeah.
225
00:15:25,604.34189441 --> 00:15:26,464.24189441
Always minerality.
226
00:15:28,294.24189441 --> 00:15:29,534.24189441
I can taste the potassium.
227
00:15:33,634.24189441 --> 00:15:43,574.24189441
Because the one of the things about the soil structure here is that they do have a surprising amount of potassium in their soils, which actually is one of the few things that actually, it's a nutrients that they live on.
228
00:15:44,24.24289441 --> 00:15:50,944.24289441
And so, you can actually have a slightly increase of potassium in these wines, and it makes the wines even taste more acidic than they actually are.
229
00:15:50,964.24289441 --> 00:15:56,524.24289441
They're very acidic, but yeah, so, so if you really, anyone wants to be a real douchebag, you can say, potassium.
230
00:15:56,564.24389441 --> 00:16:03,674.24289441
before we take a sip, for anybody out there with misophonia, I think we should come up with a, a cue, maybe earmuffs.
231
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Or something to let folks know if you get triggered by the sound of someone taking a sip.
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00:16:10,99.24389441 --> 00:16:10,689.24389441
Earmuffs.
233
00:16:10,689.34389441 --> 00:16:15,169.34389441
just hold your ears, skip over this really quickly because we are going to take a sip.
234
00:16:15,219.34389441 --> 00:16:18,879.34389441
I'm going to take a sip, and I'm going to be really loud, Please don't, because I have this in front of me.
235
00:16:18,879.44389441 --> 00:16:21,679.34389441
It's going to sound like I'm gargling Drano.
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00:16:21,789.34389441 --> 00:16:22,859.34289441
Alright, let's do this.
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00:16:25,329.34389441 --> 00:16:25,969.34389441
Okay.
238
00:16:26,519.34389441 --> 00:16:27,739.34389441
Oh, that's delightful.
239
00:16:27,849.34389441 --> 00:16:28,409.34389441
Oh my god.
240
00:16:28,899.34389441 --> 00:16:31,349.34389441
I love this because it's not fruit forward.
241
00:16:31,629.34389441 --> 00:16:32,19.34389441
I love it.
242
00:16:32,69.34389441 --> 00:16:37,69.34389441
it's like white tea and Jasmine I was going to say yes.
243
00:16:37,189.34389441 --> 00:16:37,949.34389441
Oh my god.
244
00:16:38,89.34389441 --> 00:16:46,59.3438944
this is sort of yeah Yeah, you know, it's that minerality element that's there but it's really intense Like, you know, like you are licking granite.
245
00:16:46,89.3438944 --> 00:16:48,209.3438944
I mean it is like I can feel it on my tongue.
246
00:16:48,209.3438944 --> 00:16:49,639.3438944
There's this wonderful texture.
247
00:16:50,79.3438944 --> 00:16:52,559.3438944
That's the texture really comes through.
248
00:16:52,639.3438944 --> 00:16:59,249.3438944
it's almost like it has a hint of skin contact, even though I know this doesn't, but there is a little bit of a waxiness.
249
00:16:59,249.3438944 --> 00:17:01,189.3428944
It's just, it's precise and beautiful.
250
00:17:01,359.3438944 --> 00:17:01,799.3438944
Yeah.
251
00:17:02,209.3428944 --> 00:17:08,79.3428944
I, this is where we're bringing up Tewar, I don't want to, that's why I brought up the potassium because, it's expert.
252
00:17:08,179.3428944 --> 00:17:15,329.3428944
do not diminish This winery's skill to beautifully interpret this place into this.
253
00:17:16,299.3428944 --> 00:17:22,209.3418944
This is such a modern, beautiful wine that just really does also reflect where it's from.
254
00:17:22,509.3428944 --> 00:17:23,409.3418944
And that's true.
255
00:17:23,539.3428944 --> 00:17:24,729.3428944
terroir is in the soul.
256
00:17:24,869.4428944 --> 00:17:27,342.7095611
Terroir is in the soul.
257
00:17:28,152.7095611 --> 00:17:31,512.7095611
It's, how we describe science.
258
00:17:31,532.7095611 --> 00:17:36,662.8428944
Maybe that's what it is or how we engineer wines to reflect the place we love.
259
00:17:37,62.8428944 --> 00:17:38,242.8428944
That's beautiful, Keith.
260
00:17:38,302.8428944 --> 00:17:39,292.8428944
Oh, we're winding down.
261
00:17:39,382.8428944 --> 00:17:49,142.8428944
At least this glass, Oh, I am actually Okay, first off, before we finish, I just wanted to what would you like to have with this bottle? I have some ideas.
262
00:17:49,542.8428944 --> 00:17:51,662.8428944
Okay, Well, okay, here's the thing.
263
00:17:51,972.8438944 --> 00:17:56,202.8438944
I really think that haddock? Oh.
264
00:17:56,252.8438944 --> 00:17:57,552.8438944
Like a really classic dish.
265
00:17:57,572.8438944 --> 00:18:05,352.8438944
Okay, so this is just like, we're bringing a little bit of like northern, New England Two cents here.
266
00:18:05,792.8438944 --> 00:18:15,822.8438944
So baked haddock just a little bit with chives butter Just a squeeze, you know, just a little bit of squeeze of lemon, just a squeeze of lemon.
267
00:18:16,192.8438944 --> 00:18:19,662.8453944
that old school way where, it's not even close to being, underdone.
268
00:18:19,662.8453944 --> 00:18:26,672.8463944
It's like done almost to the point where it's dry, but it's still because there's enough butter, it's almost a burnt noisette, like it's a burnt butter.
269
00:18:27,177.8463944 --> 00:18:28,607.8463944
right on top, that's what I want.
270
00:18:29,107.8463944 --> 00:18:33,47.8463944
that is where, and then having this as that counterbalance.
271
00:18:33,647.8453944 --> 00:18:35,317.8463944
Do you know what I want with this? No.
272
00:18:35,407.8463944 --> 00:18:39,647.8463944
What's that Thai salad? With the bird peppers.
273
00:18:39,707.8463944 --> 00:18:41,797.8463944
Oh, is it like the papaya salad? Yes.
274
00:18:41,877.8453944 --> 00:18:43,277.8453944
Wouldn't that be good? That would be really good.
275
00:18:43,277.8453944 --> 00:18:44,607.8453944
like level 10.
276
00:18:44,607.9453944 --> 00:18:44,912.9120611
Yeah.
277
00:18:45,293.0120611 --> 00:18:46,673.0120611
But that would be really good.
278
00:18:46,693.0120611 --> 00:18:50,23.0120611
Yeah, and because the papaya in that is always under ripe.
279
00:18:50,123.0120611 --> 00:18:52,73.0130611
It would have to be a very toned down.
280
00:18:52,73.0130611 --> 00:18:52,323.0130611
Yeah.
281
00:18:52,323.0130611 --> 00:18:53,713.0145611
yeah, that's where my mind goes.
282
00:18:53,743.0145611 --> 00:19:04,783.0145611
love that idea Let us know what you think and we'll see you next time And hey, if you have any questions you want us to talk about you want to a Recommendations, anything at all.
283
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Look, put it in the notes.
284
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make sure you, subscribe.
285
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tell your friend that you actually read into us, that you heard this, you like it, love to have as many people listening to us as possible so that we can spread the gospel of just basically being batshit insane, me, and then Alana being the normal person, that's, I think really a good idea.
286
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More medic.
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Oh, can I have some? I need some! Now! Cheers, folks.
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Thanks for spending time with us on After Wine School.
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If you enjoyed today's episode, hit subscribe so you never miss out on more wine wisdom, tips, and laughs.