For more than five decades, Jim Donini has defined what it means to be an alpinist. Not by chasing the tallest mountains or summit glory, but by seeking out the hardest lines in the world’s most remote ranges — places where storms, hunger, and survival itself are never guaranteed.
Now at 82, Jim is still climbing, still dreaming, and still teaching us what resilience looks like. In this first of a two-part conversation, he opens up about receiving a surprise cancer diagnosis, how he approaches adversity with the same directness he once brought to multi-week storms in the Karakoram, and why he has never lost his motivation to keep moving forward.
We cover:
- Why the highest peaks never interested him — and why difficulty mattered more than altitude
- The philosophy of retreat: “Getting to the top is optional. Getting back down is mandatory”
- His early days in Yosemite and how confidence and boldness shaped his path
- Stories from Torre Egger, Latok I, and the Karakoram — some of the most consequential climbs in modern alpinism
- How he keeps looking ahead despite health challenges and the odds of age
Jim’s story is one of awe, resilience, and optimism. It’s a reminder that survival is never guaranteed — but meaning can be found in the way we choose our lines, on the mountain and off.
📌 References & Related Links
- Survival Is Not Assured: The Life of Climber Jim Donini by Geoff Powter — Winner of the 2024 National Outdoor Book Award (NOBA)
👉 Next week: Part II, where Jim reflects on partnerships, sacrifices, cultural lessons from years abroad, and what it means to live agelessly in the face of mortality.
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