EP 307: The Truth About Silicones

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Silicones have become the subject of endless debate in the beauty world, with "silicone-free" products multiplying across store shelves. But what exactly are these synthetic polymers, and why do manufacturers include them in our favorite hair products? I break down the science behind silicones—explaining how they create that protective layer that makes your hair feel incredibly soft, reduces frizz, adds shine, and even provides heat protection.

We explore the most persistent myths surrounding silicones, including the scientifically impossible claim that they "suffocate" your hair. (Spoiler alert: hair is made of keratin and doesn't breathe!) I share my professional perspective on that salon "scraping test" you might have experienced, revealing when it's showing genuine buildup and when it might actually be damaging your cuticle. Plus, learn why modern silicone formulations have largely solved the buildup problems of the past.

Whether you have fine, thin hair that gets easily weighed down or thick, coarse, frizzy hair that craves smoothing agents, this episode provides practical guidance for incorporating silicones into your routine wisely. Discover how to strike the perfect balance with clarifying shampoos and how to choose products tailored to your specific hair needs. The truth about silicones isn't black and white—it's about finding what works for your unique hair type and concerns. Ready to reconsider everything you thought you knew about this misunderstood ingredient?

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Episode Transcript

Speaker 1 (00:00):
Today, we're talking about a little ingredient that's
gotten a whole lot of buzzsilicones.
You've probably seensilicone-free plastered across
shampoos and conditioners lately, but what does that really mean
?
Are silicones the villainthey're made out to be, or is
there more to the story?
Let's break it down.

(00:20):
Welcome to All About Hair,where we talk shop, share
stories and spill the secretsbehind great hair and a great
career.
I'm your host, denise Kylitz, aformer salon owner, educator
and a lifelong hair crusader.
Whether you're a new stylistbuilding your book or just

(00:40):
someone who loves learning aboutall things hair, you're in the
right place.
Each week, we dive into realtechniques, honest career advice
and inspiration to help yougrow behind the chair or just
fall even more in love with theworld of hair, because around
here, it's not just aboutlooking good.
It's about learning, evolvingand having a little fun along

(01:03):
the way.
So grab your coffee, yourshears or your dry shampoo and
let's get into it.
Okay, so just what aresilicones?
Silicones are syntheticpolymers commonly used in hair

(01:25):
products to enhance smoothness,shine and manageability.
They work by forming aprotective layer onto the hair,
which can help reduce frizz,improve detangling and protect
against heat damage.
If you've ever used aconditioner that's left your
hair feeling super soft andfrizz-free, it's probably the

(01:48):
silicones that are in yourproduct.
However, some silicones,particularly non-water-soluble
ones, can cause buildup if notproperly cleansed, leading to
hair that feels oily, dull ordry.
You've probably heard memention that scraping test that

(02:09):
we used to do in the salon,unbeknownst to me.
Yes, it is scraping off somesilicones.
If you have buildup on yourhair, you can actually take your
shears and take a piece of hairand scrape on it and it does
kind of look like a waxysubstance that's coming off your

(02:30):
hair.
So if you have a guest or ifyou yourself are feeling like
your hair is limp or, you know,weighed down or and you're just
like what the heck's going onwith my hair, that might be the
reason why.
But I've also heard that ifthere isn't silicones or buildup
on your hair and you do that toyour hair, you're actually

(02:53):
scraping your cuticle layer off.
So just be careful if you dothat.
Not all of those tests that yousee on social media that
they're scraping the hair Notall of them are silicones.
It's kind of a trick that, yeah, hairstylists might do to get
you to maybe buy professionalproducts, but some of those are

(03:16):
actually.
It's real.
It just depends on what's goingon with your hair.
So, anyway, some of the commonones that you're going to see on
the labels of your shampoo orconditioner or your hair
treatments is dimethicone,cyclomethicone and
amodimethicone.

(03:36):
Sorry, I'm not a scientist.
It's very hard to pronouncethese words, but I'm reading
them off to you.
I will put those in the shownotes so you'll know what to
look for.
But basically, if it ends incone, c O N E is probably got a
silicone in there.
Um, sorry guys, my dog iswalking on my hardwood floors

(04:00):
and you can hear her tip tappingbehind me, so I hopefully she
lays down soon.
Okay, so why do people, why dothe brands use the silicones in
the first place?
Yeah, well, they work.
They actually do work.
There's some benefits ofsilicones in hair products.
First and foremost is they makeyour hair feel good.

(04:22):
You make it feel soft andsmooth and they actually help
with detangling.
So it's easier wet and drycombing if there's a silicone in
the product.
Also, silicones help with frizzcontrol.
Actually, it could be your bestfriend if you've got frizzy
hair or thick, coarse, frizzyhair.

(04:43):
For sure that's a blessing.
To have silicones in yourproduct Also helps with shine
enhancement, adds that shine andthat luster to the hair and it
has heat protection in there.
So some silicones can helpprotect hair from heat damage
there.
So some silicones can helpprotect hair from heat damage.

(05:04):
So why do you think siliconeshave such a bad reputation?
Let's just talk about some ofthe myths that are out there.
Myth number one siliconessuffocate your hair.
They might suffocate your hairfollicle on your head, but not

(05:29):
your hair, because hair is madeof keratin and it doesn't
breathe.
So silicone won't suffocateyour hair strand.
Um, they just sit on thesurface and it they do rinse out
with a good cleanser.
So if you're using a goodshampoo, the silicones that are
in your products they'll comeright off your, off your scalp

(05:52):
and your hair, um.
Myth number two silicones causebuildup.
Well, some of the older formsof silicones they were not water
soluble and, yes, they couldbuild up over time.
But many of these modernformulations, you know science
has gotten much, much better.

(06:14):
They use lighter or watersoluble silicones that wash out
more easily.
So that myth has kind of beensquashed, unless you're still
using, I don't know, old, old,old shampoo conditioner, which
you shouldn't be doing.
And myth number threesilicone-free means healthier,

(06:37):
not necessarily, not always.
Silicone-free is a marketingterm, not a guarantee of better
results.
What matters is how your hairresponds and how you cleanse it
and care for it, so it justdepends on your hair.
So let me give you some tipsfor using silicones, because
it's silicones are in our hairproducts.

(06:58):
It's not a bad thing, okay, sochoose the right type of
silicone.
So consider using siliconesthat are easier to wash out of
your hair, such as siliconeslike cyclomethicone.
Okay, I pulled that right outof self magazine, so I'm not
making this up.
Okay, um, use, use yoursilicone sparingly.

(07:20):
So don't hopefully not everysingle product you're putting on
your hair your shampoo, yourconditioner, your, your styling
treatment, your hairsprayhopefully, not every single one
of them has, um, silicones inthem.
Just start with a small amountand then gradually increase as
needed.
If you have really fine, thinhair, silicone's probably not

(07:43):
going to be your best friend,but if you have thick, coarse,
frizzy hair, you better believeit, you're going to be screaming
for it.
Make sure you rinse thoroughly.
So ensure that you rinse yourhair after using products
containing silicones, becauseyou don't want it to build up on
your hair, and you've probablyheard me say, there are some

(08:04):
products out there that areknown to have silicones in them
and they do build up on yourhair over time.
And as long as you know thatand about every third shampoo
you're using a deep cleansingshampoo to get them off your
hair, there's nothing wrong withthat shampoo to get them off
your hair.
There's nothing wrong with that.

(08:25):
So, as long as you know andbeing aware of what's going on
with your hair, and just likewhat I said, you do want to make
sure you're using a clarifyingshampoo, but every third shampoo
once a week depends on yourhair.
Again, this helps removebuildup from non-water soluble
silicones that might be in yourproducts.
And then also, like we've beentalking about, consider your
hair type.
Some hair types may be moreprone to build up with silicones

(08:50):
than others.
At the end of the day, it's notabout good or bad, it's about
balance and what works for youand your hair.
So are silicones the enemy?
No, nope, nope.
Science has proved this.
They're just another tool inyour toolbox.

(09:10):
If you use them smartly, pairthem with proper cleansing, your
hair will thank you If you'vebeen confused by a product label
or if you're unsure about whatingredients really do.
I hope today's episode hashelped clear the air.
I know this has been short andsweet, but just don't fear the

(09:32):
silicone.
It might just be the slip yourstrands were waiting for.
Thanks for tuning in to AllAbout Hair.
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(09:54):
Yes, I know it's hard to spell,so don't worry, the link is in
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Until next time, keep learning,keep creating and keep loving
what you do.