August 6, 2025 • 38 mins
The black and white photo trick revolutionizes how colorists determine natural levels for redheaded clients, eliminating guesswork and creating long-lasting, vibrant results. This simple technique removes warm tones from client photos, revealing true depth for accurate formulation.
• Natural red hair typically lives between levels 6-8
• For aging redheads, demi-permanent color with 7-10 volume works perfectly
• Choose developer based on zone: 20 volume for roots, 10 volume for mids/ends
• Hot roots happen when roots take color better than the rest of the hair
• Blonde-to-red transformations require filling with gold first
• Red pigment molecules are larger and fade faster than other colors
• Redheads need depth for support - add blue/violet to deepen, yellow/orange to brighten
• Always use bond builders with red hair color
• Recommend sulfate-free shampoo and color depositing treatments
• Match red tone to both skin tone and client personality
Download the free redhead color guide using the link in the show notes. Don't forget to subscribe to our YouTube channel to see the upcoming color theory series and foundational haircut videos.
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Transcript
Episode Transcript
Available transcripts are automatically generated. Complete accuracy is not guaranteed.
Speaker 1 (00:00):
Have you ever looked at a redhead and thought is that
a level six, a seven, maybeeven a five?
You're not alone.
Redheads are some of the mostgorgeous, radiant clients and
some of the most confusing whenit comes to figuring out their
starting level.
But there's a simple trick,using just your phone camera,
(00:23):
that's going to change the game.
Welcome to All About Hair,where we talk shop, share
stories and spill the secretsbehind great hair and a great
career.
I'm your host, denise Kylitz, aformer salon owner, educator
and a lifelong hair crusader.
Whether you're a new stylistbuilding your book or just
(00:44):
someone who loves learning aboutall things hair, you're in the
right place.
Hey there, welcome back to thepodcast.
First off, I have to apologizeif you hear background noise
because there's a lot ofconstruction going on outside
(01:05):
and I needed to record, so I'mlike I'm just going to go for it
.
We'll try to clean up the audioafter the fact.
And I also want to say thatthis is a series that's going to
start down the color theoryspectrum of the of the game.
I guess you would say wecovered foundational haircuts
and I just got done videotapingall of the foundational haircuts
(01:27):
.
If you want information on thatit's over on my YouTube channel
.
You can go check out thefoundational haircut series.
One is going to be releasedevery week, I think, until the
end of August, and then they'regoing to be on there for forever
.
So no worries, just make sureyou subscribe and click that
thumbs up, because that's howyou will be notified when the
(01:50):
next one drops.
And then I'm working behind thescenes on color theory, and so
we're going to be going overeverything how to formulate, how
to find the natural level, thecolor wheel, some challenges
most people have, especiallywhen they're starting out timing
, how to apply the color withoutgetting it all over the place.
(02:12):
There's a lot to color, youknow, we both know so.
But today we are talking aboutredheads.
I think redheads beautiful andthey're so easy to get wrong.
Yes, they either turn orange orthey turn to violet, or
somebody might say auburn, whenthey really mean copper.
And how, what?
(02:34):
And then how do you even start?
Because if their hair is red,this is really tricky to the
naked eye, because red hairactually reflects differently
than blonde or brown hair,because it has so many different
undertones to it.
And so when you take yourswatches and you're trying to
(02:54):
figure out where you're evenstarting, the natural level of
their red hair.
It's really hard to figure out.
So many stylists go in toolight, too dark or with the
wrong undertone and the resultsthey don't last.
And if you are thinking theirnatural level's too dark or too
light and you go to formulate,you're not going to get what you
(03:18):
expected.
If you're getting started withthe wrong starting level, you're
going to get unpredictable.
Started with the wrong startinglevel, you're going to get
unpredictable brassy results.
I have seen it so many times.
Heck, I've done it myself.
Red hair is hard.
If you can learn to specializein red hair clients, oh my
goodness, that could be yourmoney-making machine right there
(03:40):
.
Okay, first, let's just talkabout that formulating for red
hair.
It is not a one-size-fits-all.
You can't just say, hey, let'sjust talk about that.
Formulating for red hair.
It is not a one size fits all.
You can't just say, hey, here'smy favorite red hair formula
and think that you're going tonail the color application.
You're not.
There's so many underlyingpigments.
There's so many tones.
The skin tone of your guestmakes a huge difference.
(04:02):
That same formula that givesyour brunette clients warmth
will just turn too orange on aredhead because they have so
much underlying pigment in there.
Look, even experienced styliststhey struggle with fading, root
glow and muddy ends.
So don't be too hard onyourself.
We've all done it.
(04:23):
But it's kind of nice to havethe information before you get
started.
And if you have a friend thatis struggling with doing reds or
you have a redheaded friendwho's struggling getting her
hair done correctly, share thispodcast episode.
Maybe they'll hear someinformation that might help them
get through their struggle.
Let's talk about from the verybeginning how to figure out the
(04:47):
natural level of your redheadedclient.
Well, here's the trick.
So take a clear photo of yourclient's hair in natural light.
So go outside or near a windowbut you got to have natural
light because you know, and Iknow, that lights in the salon
the overhead lighting it justthrows everything off.
Take a picture of their hairand then, on your phone, turn it
(05:09):
into a black and white.
All you have to do is go toyour phone's photo editor, turn
that picture into a black andwhite and save it.
So, once all the warmth isremoved, you're left with the
true level of depth in theirhair and then you can compare it
to the swatch ring or the levelchart of the color line that
you're using to determine thestarting point without any
(05:32):
distraction of this warmth.
It is a lifesaver.
Turn your photo into a blackand white.
Compare it to your level system, your starting level system.
Whatever color line you'reusing, you either have a swatch
ring or you have a chart.
You have something.
You know that I use euphoriccolor and we use just the
natural series to determine thelevel of color.
(05:54):
So you just take that andcompare it to your picture.
Then you can formulate.
Here are some pro tips andtricks for coloring red hair.
First, you have to know wherered lives on the color wheel.
True, natural red hair usuallysits between a level six, seven
and eight.
It is really really unnatural.
(06:16):
I'm not saying it's impossible,but you don't typically see a
natural redhead darker than alevel six or lighter than a
level eight.
As redheads age or when theybegin to gray, their natural
vibrancy can dull and you'veprobably had guests tell you
that, and I have a lot of myguests who are over 40 and that
(06:40):
is their concern.
It's like, wow, my hair used tobe so shiny and pretty and used
to get all these complimentsand it's just getting a little
dull.
Well, what can you do?
I would just use ademi-permanent color mixed with
either a seven or a 10 volumedeveloper.
Turn it into more of like agloss or a glaze, and this is
perfect for restoring thesoftness and the vibrancy
(07:02):
without making the result lookartificial.
We've all seen those redheadsthat it just looks well,
cartoonish or wrong.
They've used the wrong level,the wrong undertone or they
don't have the softness thatnatural hair has.
Natural hair has dimension toit, it has transparency to it.
(07:27):
So you don't want to cover upall of that with one red tone.
So what do you do?
Here's some pointers.
You want to choose yourdeveloper based on the hair
porosity and the zone thatyou're coloring Zone one, zone
two, zone three.
So zone one, the roots.
The roots often need more lift,especially if you're working on
(07:51):
resistant gray or you just needto cover the gray.
So I would probably use a 20volume.
This helps to open the cuticleand you'll get vibrant results
on the roots.
Then we're going to move tozone two and three the mid shaft
and the ends.
These areas are usually moreporous, especially if they've
been previously colored.
(08:12):
Drop your developer to a 10volume or use a deposit only
formula.
I would probably only use adeposit only formula.
This helps to avoid overprocessing and it helps to avoid
fading.
Over-processing here leads tomuddy, drab ends or the dreaded
hot root effect, and we've all.
(08:33):
Well, if you haven't seen thatwhat the hot root effect is, it
basically looks like your rootsare lighter or on fire.
They just look a little bitwrong.
Okay, and when I go to makethis bit into a video, I will
give some examples of what thathot root effect looks like.
(08:53):
But it's not pretty and it'snot normal.
I would rather have the rootsactually one level lower than
the mid-shaft and ends.
I think that looks more natural.
Say that you did a level six onthe roots.
I would do like a level sevenon the ends and I might even it
depends on their hair you couldeven up the developer on their
(09:18):
mid-shafts, because sometimesyou just need that little bit of
, especially if it's all.
If this is virgin hair, youneed a little bit more.
I don't know vibrancy in thosemid shafts.
It depends on what you're goingfor, but most of the time you
do 20 volume on the roots, 10volume deposit only on the mid
(09:38):
shaft and ends.
Okay, now let's do sometroubleshooting.
Okay, now let's do sometroubleshooting.
So say you have hot roots andoff-tone ends.
Hot roots usually happen whenthe roots take better than the
rest of the hair.
We've had this happen.
If you haven't had it happen,it'll happen.
So how do you correct that?
(09:58):
Adjust your formula byanchoring it with a natural,
warm or gold tone.
So what do I mean by that?
If you pick a copper color or acolor so say it's a level six,
you want to make sure thatthere's some kind of gold or
some kind of natural warmth inthere on top of your reds and
(10:23):
your coppers.
You can do this a couple ofdifferent ways.
You can use color priming orfilling, or you can gloss it on
the mids and the ends to createbalance.
If the ends look dull or ashy,it could be because the porosity
is rejecting the warmth.
So make sure that you're usingbond builders, make sure you're
(10:44):
using your sprays that help toeven out porosity.
Say, your ends did come off tonea little bit, or they're muddy,
or they just don't look rightand you're just like, oh, that's
not what I wanted.
But if I put something over itlike a gloss, it's going to
appear too dark because of theoff tone on the end.
(11:05):
So you might want to go inthere with, like, if your color
line has a clear boost, lift,like Euphora does.
Or you could mix a little bitof your lightener, just a
smidgen, either with water orwith a very, very gentle
developer like five or seven,and just gently remove some of
(11:25):
that tone off of the ends andthen reformulate and then put on
a gloss that would better suitwhatever it is that you're
trying to do.
So say, we've got somebodygoing from blonde to red, what
do you do?
So maybe it's the fall seasonand everybody wants that warmer,
redder hair for the fall.
(11:48):
It's beautiful, right, and welove that.
You've got to remember thatblonde hair lives at levels
eight, nine and 10, correct, butat those levels it lacks the
pigment density to support redhair.
Remember what I said, that redslive at six, seven and eight.
(12:09):
So if you have your color chartin front of you and the
underlying pigments in six,seven and eight, and then you
look at eight, nine and 10, whatis lacking?
You're lacking those oranges.
You're lacking some red.
You're lacking, basically, theorange.
So you have to add some of thatback into your formula to
(12:29):
create a believable rich red.
You with me here.
So use a ratio like two thirdsgold or orange, depends on what
target you're going for and thena third of your formula can be
your target shade.
Okay, that's for lighter toneslike sevens and eights.
Or you would reverse that.
(12:51):
If you're going for the levelsix redhead, so you would do one
third of gold because the six,the underlying pigment, has more
depth to it.
So you'd use one third gold andtwo thirds your target shade.
So for pre-lightened hair, like,say, you've been highlighting
them and then they come in andthey say they want to be red for
the different season or theyjust want to be red period, you
(13:14):
have to always fill that hairbefore depositing red.
And why?
Because it is going to fadewith one shampoo.
Probably.
It is going to fade with oneshampoo probably If you don't
put in that gold, that warmththat color molecule has to hold
(13:35):
onto.
If you do not fill the hair, orif you don't do not prime the
hair depending on what you callit your color is going to fade
or it's going to look reallyhollow.
It's just not going to lookright.
You need that strength and thatdepth for redheads to really
appear natural and believable.
That leads me to this that redsdo need that depth for support.
So on levels three through sixand sometimes seven, you can use
(14:01):
some red accent tones from yourno ammonia formulas.
I tend to teach towards euphoruscolor because that's what I use
, that's what I love.
Euphorus is a little bitdifferent than most color lines.
A lot of color lines out thereare already pre-blended,
pre-mixed in the tube.
Euphorus is you are a truecolorist.
(14:23):
You are a true artist becauseyou have to mix everything.
If you want more information onthat, let me know.
I will guide you towards theproper person to talk to.
But I absolutely love Euphorafor so many reasons.
But one of the reasons that Ireally love it is because you
are a true artist.
You're not just picking a tubeof color and putting it on
(14:45):
somebody's hair With that inmind.
On levels three through six soif you're going into a darker
red, you want to use red accenttones from your no Ammonia
series and to go darker andricher.
So sometimes your reds look alittle bit shallow or, I don't
know, not believable.
If you're going to go richerand darker with red, what would
(15:09):
that be?
You want to think in your bluesand purple tones to deepen a
red formula.
So if you were taking a truered, just pretend like it's like
red, red, red, and you wantedto deepen it to the naked eye,
you would put blue or purpletones to it and it would take
that same red color and make itlook richer and darker Crimson,
(15:33):
red, violets, scarlet.
But if you want to do brighterreds, you want to put in yellow
or orange in the formula andwhat that does is it just gives
you that vibrancy.
Think of a sunflower.
When you see that yellow, itjust really brightens it up.
I know some flowers aren't red.
I'm thinking what would makeyou think bright yellow
(15:56):
sunflowers?
If you want to brighten up yourred, make it a fiery coppery,
add a little bit of yellow ororange in your formula.
If you're not using Euphora,then I would just look for a
yellow based that lives in yourinventory.
Okay, so say you have somebodygoing from a level one or two
(16:16):
and they want some red in there.
Well, okay, it's kind of hardto do this because there's too
much eumelanin in the hair atthese levels to really make the
red pop.
So super dark levels just makered tones hard to see You're
going to have to use if theywant to stay at those levels.
(16:38):
So say they want a level twobut they want to see some warmth
in their hair.
There's some redness.
Use a higher level of developerand or boosters to lift and
support the red tones.
So say I was going to keep themat a level two or a three and I
would want to formulate at thatlevel two or three.
I would use a higher volume ofdeveloper, meaning I would want
(16:58):
to formulate at that level twoor three.
I would use a higher volume ofdeveloper, meaning I would go in
with a 30, probably just togive you a little bit more lift,
so when it deposits you can seesome of those undertones.
But you do want to avoid overlightening.
You only want to lift to just ared-or orange base really.
(17:19):
So you're just trying to shiftthem one or two tones so you can
see that color withoutlightening them too much.
Okay, do you know why reds tendto fade really fast?
Red pigments are large or theirmolecules are large and they
fade really quickly.
(17:40):
Are large or their moleculesare large and they fade really
quickly.
So if your client wants theircolor to last, sometimes what I
would do is I would formulateone level deeper than the
desired result because it hasmore pigment to it.
After about three shampoos itsettles into that perfect shade
that they're looking for.
But if you have somebody thatshe always says her hair color
(18:03):
fades, first I would ask themwhat are you using for your
shampoo and your conditioner,and are you out in the sun a lot
?
What kind of products are youusing to protect your hair color
?
Are you laying that cuticledown?
There's all kinds of thingsthat you can ask, because if
they are getting their hairtinted red and they go home and
(18:24):
they use a stripping shampoo I'mnot going to name names it's
not going to last.
The color molecule is too bigand it's just going to come out
of that cuticle because thecuticle is not shut down.
That's a good trick is to goone level darker just to make it
last a little bit longer.
But because reds fade so fast,a lot of us tend to over deposit
(18:49):
because we want to over correctit.
But what that does is it makesthe tone kind of muddy looking.
Have you ever had that happen,where you go to tone red hair
and it's just like, wow, whathappened here.
So you really do have to createa custom gloss or a demi color
(19:09):
to refresh the mids and the endswithout adding any extra
ammonia or lift.
You do not want to lift the midshafts or the ends, you just
want to gloss over it.
You just want it to pop alittle bit, and sometimes you
could do this with just a cleargloss and just a few drops of
red concentrate and that's allyou need.
(19:29):
Or they do have out there nowred shampoos, or what I like is
the Euphora's Color Revive.
They have a copper one and theyhave a red one and you can
combine them.
But what the Color Revive is,it's a treatment and it's
actually designed to be used inbetween the shampoo and the
conditioner, and the longer youleave it on, the more vibrancy
(19:51):
you get.
What I do I don't have red hair, but I use the one for brown
hair because I have one forbrown hair too I just put it in
with my conditioner and, yeah,it dilutes it just a little bit.
But if you do it like everyother shampoo and you do it that
way, it's perfect.
But if they truly are losingtheir color pigment, you might
want to hit them hard with thetreatment and tell them to use
(20:15):
it in between their shampoo andtheir conditioner.
Leave it on.
You can leave it on, I think,up to like five minutes and it
really will give them thevibrancy they've been missing.
I'll leave a link in the shownotes if you want more
information, and that'll linkyou to Euphora's website and you
can read a little bit moreabout that.
Don't be afraid to add morewarmth to your formula than what
(20:39):
you think you need.
Okay, reds are completelydifferent than, say, brunettes,
because most brunettes, right,they're like I don't want to see
warmth and they want this ashycolor.
And so in our minds we keepadding ash, ash, ash.
But with redheads you have toadd warmth, but you have to
control it.
Red hair needs the warmth, butit just needs to be controlled.
(21:04):
So what does that mean?
It means that copper, auburnand strawberry blondes each
reflect the light differently.
So mix warm and neutral tonesto create believable dimensional
reds.
So, at each level, you're goingto have to up the orange,
you're going to have to up thegold, or if you want to drop it,
(21:27):
you're going to have to up theviolet right, like what we were
talking about.
You always want to use bondbuilders with red hair color.
Almost every line out there nowhas a bond builder, but if
you're working on previouslycolored red hair, oh my gosh,
does this help to preserve thetone?
It really truly does.
(21:47):
Science is a wonderful thing,don't you think?
When it came to creating thesebond builders?
Wow, I don't even know how wedo it without them.
I mean, it's almost impossibleto over-process somebody's hair
with the bond builders.
Don't hold me to that, please.
Don't say Denise told me that Iwould never ruin anybody's hair
because I use bond builders.
No, no, that's not what I'msaying.
(22:07):
But it does make it verydifficult because the bond
builders really do go in thereand help to reconstruct the
damage that's being done bybreaking the bonds down, to put
the color in there in the firstplace.
Maybe I need to do a wholething on bond builders and how
(22:28):
they work.
And do not forget you have tohave to have to educate your
client.
They have to be using asulfate-free, color-safe shampoo
.
This is a non-negotiable.
For reds it is.
If they're going to take theirhard-earned cash and get you to
color their hair red not get you, but ask you they have to be
(22:50):
protecting it.
What's the point?
Because reds fade faster thanany other color out there and
you have to tell them that Don'tjust go in there going, okay,
I'll turn you red withoutletting them know what to expect
, because they will come back inin three shampoos and go my
red's no longer in my hair andthey're going to blame it on you
, not themselves, not by usingcheap shampoo.
(23:12):
They're going to blame it onyou because you didn't educate
them on what to use in theirhair.
Just saying you have to educateyour client.
You should be doing this everysingle client who sits down in
your chair, not just theredheads, but that's a different
conversation.
Okay Now, with this new way ofanalyzing depth and figuring out
(23:32):
the natural level of theredheads, you're going to start
nailing your starting level withconfidence.
You're going to take those blackand white pictures.
You're going to compare them toyour natural levels.
You're also going to avoid thedreaded root glow or the dull
ends.
Right, I told you how to dothat.
You're going to give yourredhead clients long lasting,
(23:52):
radiant, believable color byusing glosses and really amping
up the warmth in their hair, andyou're going to show up behind
the chair as the expert you arewith confidence.
You're going to love this.
So we're going to take somequestions at the end here that
people have asked me online.
(24:13):
But if redheads have everthrown you for a loop, please
just try the black and whitephoto trick at your next
appointment and pair it with thecolor tips that we just went
over, and you can always go grabmy redhead color cheat sheet.
I'll leave the link in the shownotes.
All you have to do is print itoff.
All these cheat sheets you guysare going to create a notebook
(24:37):
for, for um, whatever I'mlaughing at myself because I
have cheat sheets for everything.
I just want to give all thisinformation away.
I just want you guys to knoweverything.
I want you to be successfulbehind the chair.
I want you to get out there andmake a lot of money and feel
confident and all that goodstuff.
So if you have somebody elsewho's starting out in their
(24:59):
beauty career, share this anddon't forget to subscribe.
Also, go over and check out myYouTube channel all about hair
with Denise for more tutorials.
So let's take some listener Qand A's.
Somebody asked me what's yourgo-to formula for gray coverage
on redheads.
It's going to be different forevery redhead, but you do want
to start with a thoroughconsultation to determine the
(25:21):
percentage of gray, if they haveany.
And for 50% or more gray, youhave to anchor your formula with
a mix of natural, natural, warmor gold tones to replace any
melanin and create believablevibrancy, because if not, it's
going to get too dull.
Believable vibrancy Because ifnot it's going to get too dull.
(25:42):
And you have to use your colorbrand's guidelines.
Remember, on redheads, vibrantfashion.
Reds without an anchor can gopink or hollow over gray.
Definitely, make sure thatyou're taking your black and
white picture to see whereyou're starting out.
And I was going to say one morething on that Consultation Make
(26:03):
sure you know what your clientis looking for Lots and lots of
pictures.
Make a Pinterest page that hastons of different pictures for
redheads, because there areviolet redheads, there's golden
redheads, there's auburns,there's coppers, there's penny
copper, there's what was thatone Cowboy copper that was going
(26:23):
around?
You got to know becauseeverybody's going to call it
differently.
So you have to go by picturesand then when they show you a
picture, you want to say what doyou like about this picture?
Because everybody sees colordifferently.
So maybe you're seeing a copperand in your eyes you're seeing
orange, but in their eyesthey're seeing gold.
You're like, what the heck?
(26:44):
Okay, you have to ask thequestions.
If they just sit down in yourchair and they say, hey, I want
my hair to be Auburn, you got toknow what Auburn means to them
and their eyeballs, okay.
So make sure you're startingwith lots of pictures.
And here's another tip whenyou're formulating for gray
coverage on redheads, drop thelevel slightly to just get a
(27:06):
denser pigment and bettercoverage.
That might save you more thananything else.
Just drop it half a shade and Ibet you'll get better coverage.
Okay, and you're definitely notgoing to get hot roots that way
.
Okay, here's another questionhow can I tone down overly
orange or brassy red?
(27:27):
Brassy reds often happen whenthere's not enough depth or the
underlying pigment wasn'tsupported properly.
This means that you've eitherlightened them too light and
then you didn't put on the righttone level of color, or there's
just not enough depth.
So when you're at like a levelsix, or maybe you're taking
(27:52):
deeper than that, a five youneed to put in a little bit of
blue or violet pigment to makeit believable.
You cannot go in and say, well,you just can't do that.
I'm like you can't put a levelseven on a four and think that
no, you have to.
You have to put a little bit ofviolet in there.
You can gloss with a cool redor red violet demi-permanent,
(28:15):
and that will help take out someof that orange or that
brassiness.
But you want to avoidover-lightening it, because if
you lift it too far the warmthgoes wild.
So you don't need to cancel thewarmth completely, you just
need to redirect it to the righttone.
Family.
And again, you got to pull outyour color guide.
(28:37):
Let me know if you need a colorguide.
I will email you a color guide.
Here's a question.
Now, this wasn't reallysomebody who asked me, I asked
it of myself and then I had todig up the answer.
Can I use the black and whitetrick on clients with red
extensions or toppers?
And actually you can't reliablydo this because the black and
(29:00):
white photo trick it works beston natural hair or hair that's
consistently colored.
Extensions and toppers areoften made from and they're
processed differently andthey're different types of hair.
Sometimes they're not even realhair, so the reflectivity might
not match what we're used to.
So in this case you might use alevel swatch comparison in
(29:21):
natural light for more accuracy.
I know it kind of sucks, butmost of the time we're dealing
with natural hair.
The question is, what gloss doyou recommend for keeping red
vibrant between appointments?
And you can use a customdemi-permanent gloss with a
small amount of the client'soriginal red tone, like in
Euphora.
We have a clear gloss in the noammonia, and so you could do
(29:45):
that and then just put just alittle bit of of their original
red tone that you've made themat their appointment.
Or you can mix a clear glosswith just a few drops of the red
accent tone or intensifier, andmost lines have something like
that.
Or, like I said before, myfavorite is the Revive treatment
.
Yes, there's a link.
(30:05):
You can get more informationfrom following that link, but
the Revive treatment it just itreally is a lot of pigment and
talk about if their hair isfading.
It actually helps to repair thehair as well.
So it's not just like a shampooor conditioner that you just
put in there.
You know, like some like on myAmazon storefront, I do have
(30:25):
some colored shampoos andconditioners and those are great
, but that's not a treatment.
So if your hair is a little bitporous, I would probably say
get a treatment and alwaysrecommend sulfate-free shampoo.
You want to make sure they'relimiting their heat styling and
that they're using UV protectionto extend their tones longevity
.
How do you handle banding fromold red color?
(30:49):
Well, first you got to assessthe porosity.
Banding happens when the midsand the ends are more porous and
absorb the pigment unevenly.
So here's what you do Gentlylift off the old tone with
whatever you have in yourarsenal.
I have clear boost, which iswonderful.
It just kind of raises it upabout a half a level.
(31:10):
Or you can mix up some of yourlightener.
Then you need to reprime thehair if needed, or fill it, and
then you apply fresh, balancedred with the correct undertone
of what you were wanting.
Then I always finish offredheads with a gloss just to
even everything out, and it justmakes everything super shiny.
(31:31):
Just avoid applying more coloron top.
You don't want to just go inthere and like, well, I'm going
to fix this band by just puttingmore color on.
No, no, it's just going to makethe banding worse and you're
not going to get what you'reafter.
You have to kind of take offwhat was on there to rebalance
it out.
I know I've already answeredthis one, but should I pre-fill
(31:52):
when going from blonde back tored?
Yes, yes, yes, yes, always,always fill, always fill.
If you're taking anybody, notjust redheads, but if you're
taking anybody more than twolevels darker than what they are
right now, just fill the hair.
Don't, don't, don't secondguess this, because you have to
(32:13):
fill the hair with the pigmentthat it doesn't have in order
for the color to last.
So blonde levels from levelseight, nine and 10, they don't
have enough gold or copper tosupport red pigment.
So if you don't fill, the redwill go hollow, it'll turn pink
or it's going to fade out waytoo fast.
So here's some tips For lighterreds, do two-thirds gold and
(32:36):
one-third your target shade.
For deeper reds, do one-thirdgold and two-thirds your target
shade, or just pre-fill it withgold-based EMI and then apply
your final red tone.
That's what I would suggestevery time because it lasts
longer, but sometimes we don'thave time to do that, so you can
add it to your formula and prayto the hair gods and hopefully
(32:56):
that helps you.
Final question is copper orauburn better for clients with
cool skin tones?
Ooh, I love this question somuch because skin tones.
If you're not taking that inconsideration with coloring
someone's hair, oh, you might bemissing out.
You have to look at the skintone in every formulation, not
(33:18):
just redheads, but everyformulation, because that's
what's going to depend on howyou're going to tone their hair.
Okay, so for cool skin tones,and do you know how to find the
skin tone when you look atsomebody?
Some people say look at theirwrists and if they have blue
veins they're cool skin, and ifthey have green veins they're
warm.
I don't know about that, butlook at their face and if they
(33:41):
look better in silver jewelry,that's usually skin tones.
If they look better in silverjewelry, that's usually skin
tones.
If they look better in goldjewelry, it's, you know, warm.
There's so many different waysto do this.
For cool skin tones, auburnusually works better because it
has more depth and neutralityand it has kind of violet
undertones.
Copper, which is brighter andmore orange, it can clash or
(34:07):
look too harsh with cool skintones.
So if your client loves warmthbut has a cool skin, try a soft
copper, brown or neutral copper,not too yellow, not too orange.
And here's a quick tip You'llwant to match the red tone to
both, not only the skin tone buttheir personality.
Some cooler toned clients lovefiery reds.
You just have to balance itcarefully.
(34:29):
You have to ask them that youknow what's their.
What is their personality likewhat?
What's their career?
What do they want to see?
Because you might want to breakthe rules in some cases.
That's up to you.
Remember, you can download a redhair color guide just by
following the links in my shownotes.
Don't forget to follow this formore information.
(34:51):
Don't forget to subscribe toour YouTube channel.
You'll be one of the first tosee when our color theory series
comes out.
Right now, you can just takeadvantage of our foundational
haircuts and all the otherepisodes we have all over there.
But always just go over andsubscribe.
Do me that favor.
I love it, love building thiscommunity and always remember
(35:11):
when you know better, you dobetter, and I'll talk to you
next week.
Thanks for tuning in to AllAbout Hair.
If you loved this episode, hit,subscribe, leave us a review
and share it with a fellowstylist or hair loving friend.
You want more tips, tools andbehind the scenes?
Goodness?
Follow me on YouTube or head tomy website at DeniseKylitzcom.
(35:32):
Yes, I know it's hard to spell,so don't worry, the link is in
the show notes.
Until next time, keep learning,keep creating and keep loving
what you do.
Have you ever looked at a redhead and thought is that
a level six, a seven, maybeeven a five?
You're not alone.
Redheads are some of the mostgorgeous, radiant clients and
some of the most confusing whenit comes to figuring out their
starting level.
But there's a simple trick,using just your phone camera,
(00:23):
that's going to change the game.
Welcome to All About Hair,where we talk shop, share
stories and spill the secretsbehind great hair and a great
career.
I'm your host, denise Kylitz, aformer salon owner, educator
and a lifelong hair crusader.
Whether you're a new stylistbuilding your book or just
(00:44):
someone who loves learning aboutall things hair, you're in the
right place.
Hey there, welcome back to thepodcast.
First off, I have to apologizeif you hear background noise
because there's a lot ofconstruction going on outside
(01:05):
and I needed to record, so I'mlike I'm just going to go for it
.
We'll try to clean up the audioafter the fact.
And I also want to say thatthis is a series that's going to
start down the color theoryspectrum of the of the game.
I guess you would say wecovered foundational haircuts
and I just got done videotapingall of the foundational haircuts
(01:27):
.
If you want information on thatit's over on my YouTube channel
.
You can go check out thefoundational haircut series.
One is going to be releasedevery week, I think, until the
end of August, and then they'regoing to be on there for forever
.
So no worries, just make sureyou subscribe and click that
thumbs up, because that's howyou will be notified when the
(01:50):
next one drops.
And then I'm working behind thescenes on color theory, and so
we're going to be going overeverything how to formulate, how
to find the natural level, thecolor wheel, some challenges
most people have, especiallywhen they're starting out timing
, how to apply the color withoutgetting it all over the place.
(02:12):
There's a lot to color, youknow, we both know so.
But today we are talking aboutredheads.
I think redheads beautiful andthey're so easy to get wrong.
Yes, they either turn orange orthey turn to violet, or
somebody might say auburn, whenthey really mean copper.
And how, what?
(02:34):
And then how do you even start?
Because if their hair is red,this is really tricky to the
naked eye, because red hairactually reflects differently
than blonde or brown hair,because it has so many different
undertones to it.
And so when you take yourswatches and you're trying to
(02:54):
figure out where you're evenstarting, the natural level of
their red hair.
It's really hard to figure out.
So many stylists go in toolight, too dark or with the
wrong undertone and the resultsthey don't last.
And if you are thinking theirnatural level's too dark or too
light and you go to formulate,you're not going to get what you
(03:18):
expected.
If you're getting started withthe wrong starting level, you're
going to get unpredictable.
Started with the wrong startinglevel, you're going to get
unpredictable brassy results.
I have seen it so many times.
Heck, I've done it myself.
Red hair is hard.
If you can learn to specializein red hair clients, oh my
goodness, that could be yourmoney-making machine right there
(03:40):
.
Okay, first, let's just talkabout that formulating for red
hair.
It is not a one-size-fits-all.
You can't just say, hey, let'sjust talk about that.
Formulating for red hair.
It is not a one size fits all.
You can't just say, hey, here'smy favorite red hair formula
and think that you're going tonail the color application.
You're not.
There's so many underlyingpigments.
There's so many tones.
The skin tone of your guestmakes a huge difference.
(04:02):
That same formula that givesyour brunette clients warmth
will just turn too orange on aredhead because they have so
much underlying pigment in there.
Look, even experienced styliststhey struggle with fading, root
glow and muddy ends.
So don't be too hard onyourself.
We've all done it.
(04:23):
But it's kind of nice to havethe information before you get
started.
And if you have a friend thatis struggling with doing reds or
you have a redheaded friendwho's struggling getting her
hair done correctly, share thispodcast episode.
Maybe they'll hear someinformation that might help them
get through their struggle.
Let's talk about from the verybeginning how to figure out the
(04:47):
natural level of your redheadedclient.
Well, here's the trick.
So take a clear photo of yourclient's hair in natural light.
So go outside or near a windowbut you got to have natural
light because you know, and Iknow, that lights in the salon
the overhead lighting it justthrows everything off.
Take a picture of their hairand then, on your phone, turn it
(05:09):
into a black and white.
All you have to do is go toyour phone's photo editor, turn
that picture into a black andwhite and save it.
So, once all the warmth isremoved, you're left with the
true level of depth in theirhair and then you can compare it
to the swatch ring or the levelchart of the color line that
you're using to determine thestarting point without any
(05:32):
distraction of this warmth.
It is a lifesaver.
Turn your photo into a blackand white.
Compare it to your level system, your starting level system.
Whatever color line you'reusing, you either have a swatch
ring or you have a chart.
You have something.
You know that I use euphoriccolor and we use just the
natural series to determine thelevel of color.
(05:54):
So you just take that andcompare it to your picture.
Then you can formulate.
Here are some pro tips andtricks for coloring red hair.
First, you have to know wherered lives on the color wheel.
True, natural red hair usuallysits between a level six, seven
and eight.
It is really really unnatural.
(06:16):
I'm not saying it's impossible,but you don't typically see a
natural redhead darker than alevel six or lighter than a
level eight.
As redheads age or when theybegin to gray, their natural
vibrancy can dull and you'veprobably had guests tell you
that, and I have a lot of myguests who are over 40 and that
(06:40):
is their concern.
It's like, wow, my hair used tobe so shiny and pretty and used
to get all these complimentsand it's just getting a little
dull.
Well, what can you do?
I would just use ademi-permanent color mixed with
either a seven or a 10 volumedeveloper.
Turn it into more of like agloss or a glaze, and this is
perfect for restoring thesoftness and the vibrancy
(07:02):
without making the result lookartificial.
We've all seen those redheadsthat it just looks well,
cartoonish or wrong.
They've used the wrong level,the wrong undertone or they
don't have the softness thatnatural hair has.
Natural hair has dimension toit, it has transparency to it.
(07:27):
So you don't want to cover upall of that with one red tone.
So what do you do?
Here's some pointers.
You want to choose yourdeveloper based on the hair
porosity and the zone thatyou're coloring Zone one, zone
two, zone three.
So zone one, the roots.
The roots often need more lift,especially if you're working on
(07:51):
resistant gray or you just needto cover the gray.
So I would probably use a 20volume.
This helps to open the cuticleand you'll get vibrant results
on the roots.
Then we're going to move tozone two and three the mid shaft
and the ends.
These areas are usually moreporous, especially if they've
been previously colored.
(08:12):
Drop your developer to a 10volume or use a deposit only
formula.
I would probably only use adeposit only formula.
This helps to avoid overprocessing and it helps to avoid
fading.
Over-processing here leads tomuddy, drab ends or the dreaded
hot root effect, and we've all.
(08:33):
Well, if you haven't seen thatwhat the hot root effect is, it
basically looks like your rootsare lighter or on fire.
They just look a little bitwrong.
Okay, and when I go to makethis bit into a video, I will
give some examples of what thathot root effect looks like.
(08:53):
But it's not pretty and it'snot normal.
I would rather have the rootsactually one level lower than
the mid-shaft and ends.
I think that looks more natural.
Say that you did a level six onthe roots.
I would do like a level sevenon the ends and I might even it
depends on their hair you couldeven up the developer on their
(09:18):
mid-shafts, because sometimesyou just need that little bit of
, especially if it's all.
If this is virgin hair, youneed a little bit more.
I don't know vibrancy in thosemid shafts.
It depends on what you're goingfor, but most of the time you
do 20 volume on the roots, 10volume deposit only on the mid
(09:38):
shaft and ends.
Okay, now let's do sometroubleshooting.
Okay, now let's do sometroubleshooting.
So say you have hot roots andoff-tone ends.
Hot roots usually happen whenthe roots take better than the
rest of the hair.
We've had this happen.
If you haven't had it happen,it'll happen.
So how do you correct that?
(09:58):
Adjust your formula byanchoring it with a natural,
warm or gold tone.
So what do I mean by that?
If you pick a copper color or acolor so say it's a level six,
you want to make sure thatthere's some kind of gold or
some kind of natural warmth inthere on top of your reds and
(10:23):
your coppers.
You can do this a couple ofdifferent ways.
You can use color priming orfilling, or you can gloss it on
the mids and the ends to createbalance.
If the ends look dull or ashy,it could be because the porosity
is rejecting the warmth.
So make sure that you're usingbond builders, make sure you're
(10:44):
using your sprays that help toeven out porosity.
Say, your ends did come off tonea little bit, or they're muddy,
or they just don't look rightand you're just like, oh, that's
not what I wanted.
But if I put something over itlike a gloss, it's going to
appear too dark because of theoff tone on the end.
(11:05):
So you might want to go inthere with, like, if your color
line has a clear boost, lift,like Euphora does.
Or you could mix a little bitof your lightener, just a
smidgen, either with water orwith a very, very gentle
developer like five or seven,and just gently remove some of
(11:25):
that tone off of the ends andthen reformulate and then put on
a gloss that would better suitwhatever it is that you're
trying to do.
So say, we've got somebodygoing from blonde to red, what
do you do?
So maybe it's the fall seasonand everybody wants that warmer,
redder hair for the fall.
(11:48):
It's beautiful, right, and welove that.
You've got to remember thatblonde hair lives at levels
eight, nine and 10, correct, butat those levels it lacks the
pigment density to support redhair.
Remember what I said, that redslive at six, seven and eight.
(12:09):
So if you have your color chartin front of you and the
underlying pigments in six,seven and eight, and then you
look at eight, nine and 10, whatis lacking?
You're lacking those oranges.
You're lacking some red.
You're lacking, basically, theorange.
So you have to add some of thatback into your formula to
(12:29):
create a believable rich red.
You with me here.
So use a ratio like two thirdsgold or orange, depends on what
target you're going for and thena third of your formula can be
your target shade.
Okay, that's for lighter toneslike sevens and eights.
Or you would reverse that.
(12:51):
If you're going for the levelsix redhead, so you would do one
third of gold because the six,the underlying pigment, has more
depth to it.
So you'd use one third gold andtwo thirds your target shade.
So for pre-lightened hair, like,say, you've been highlighting
them and then they come in andthey say they want to be red for
the different season or theyjust want to be red period, you
(13:14):
have to always fill that hairbefore depositing red.
And why?
Because it is going to fadewith one shampoo.
Probably.
It is going to fade with oneshampoo probably If you don't
put in that gold, that warmththat color molecule has to hold
(13:35):
onto.
If you do not fill the hair, orif you don't do not prime the
hair depending on what you callit your color is going to fade
or it's going to look reallyhollow.
It's just not going to lookright.
You need that strength and thatdepth for redheads to really
appear natural and believable.
That leads me to this that redsdo need that depth for support.
So on levels three through sixand sometimes seven, you can use
(14:01):
some red accent tones from yourno ammonia formulas.
I tend to teach towards euphoruscolor because that's what I use
, that's what I love.
Euphorus is a little bitdifferent than most color lines.
A lot of color lines out thereare already pre-blended,
pre-mixed in the tube.
Euphorus is you are a truecolorist.
(14:23):
You are a true artist becauseyou have to mix everything.
If you want more information onthat, let me know.
I will guide you towards theproper person to talk to.
But I absolutely love Euphorafor so many reasons.
But one of the reasons that Ireally love it is because you
are a true artist.
You're not just picking a tubeof color and putting it on
(14:45):
somebody's hair With that inmind.
On levels three through six soif you're going into a darker
red, you want to use red accenttones from your no Ammonia
series and to go darker andricher.
So sometimes your reds look alittle bit shallow or, I don't
know, not believable.
If you're going to go richerand darker with red, what would
(15:09):
that be?
You want to think in your bluesand purple tones to deepen a
red formula.
So if you were taking a truered, just pretend like it's like
red, red, red, and you wantedto deepen it to the naked eye,
you would put blue or purpletones to it and it would take
that same red color and make itlook richer and darker Crimson,
(15:33):
red, violets, scarlet.
But if you want to do brighterreds, you want to put in yellow
or orange in the formula andwhat that does is it just gives
you that vibrancy.
Think of a sunflower.
When you see that yellow, itjust really brightens it up.
I know some flowers aren't red.
I'm thinking what would makeyou think bright yellow
(15:56):
sunflowers?
If you want to brighten up yourred, make it a fiery coppery,
add a little bit of yellow ororange in your formula.
If you're not using Euphora,then I would just look for a
yellow based that lives in yourinventory.
Okay, so say you have somebodygoing from a level one or two
(16:16):
and they want some red in there.
Well, okay, it's kind of hardto do this because there's too
much eumelanin in the hair atthese levels to really make the
red pop.
So super dark levels just makered tones hard to see You're
going to have to use if theywant to stay at those levels.
(16:38):
So say they want a level twobut they want to see some warmth
in their hair.
There's some redness.
Use a higher level of developerand or boosters to lift and
support the red tones.
So say I was going to keep themat a level two or a three and I
would want to formulate at thatlevel two or three.
I would use a higher volume ofdeveloper, meaning I would want
(16:58):
to formulate at that level twoor three.
I would use a higher volume ofdeveloper, meaning I would go in
with a 30, probably just togive you a little bit more lift,
so when it deposits you can seesome of those undertones.
But you do want to avoid overlightening.
You only want to lift to just ared-or orange base really.
(17:19):
So you're just trying to shiftthem one or two tones so you can
see that color withoutlightening them too much.
Okay, do you know why reds tendto fade really fast?
Red pigments are large or theirmolecules are large and they
fade really quickly.
(17:40):
Are large or their moleculesare large and they fade really
quickly.
So if your client wants theircolor to last, sometimes what I
would do is I would formulateone level deeper than the
desired result because it hasmore pigment to it.
After about three shampoos itsettles into that perfect shade
that they're looking for.
But if you have somebody thatshe always says her hair color
(18:03):
fades, first I would ask themwhat are you using for your
shampoo and your conditioner,and are you out in the sun a lot
?
What kind of products are youusing to protect your hair color
?
Are you laying that cuticledown?
There's all kinds of thingsthat you can ask, because if
they are getting their hairtinted red and they go home and
(18:24):
they use a stripping shampoo I'mnot going to name names it's
not going to last.
The color molecule is too bigand it's just going to come out
of that cuticle because thecuticle is not shut down.
That's a good trick is to goone level darker just to make it
last a little bit longer.
But because reds fade so fast,a lot of us tend to over deposit
(18:49):
because we want to over correctit.
But what that does is it makesthe tone kind of muddy looking.
Have you ever had that happen,where you go to tone red hair
and it's just like, wow, whathappened here.
So you really do have to createa custom gloss or a demi color
(19:09):
to refresh the mids and the endswithout adding any extra
ammonia or lift.
You do not want to lift the midshafts or the ends, you just
want to gloss over it.
You just want it to pop alittle bit, and sometimes you
could do this with just a cleargloss and just a few drops of
red concentrate and that's allyou need.
(19:29):
Or they do have out there nowred shampoos, or what I like is
the Euphora's Color Revive.
They have a copper one and theyhave a red one and you can
combine them.
But what the Color Revive is,it's a treatment and it's
actually designed to be used inbetween the shampoo and the
conditioner, and the longer youleave it on, the more vibrancy
(19:51):
you get.
What I do I don't have red hair, but I use the one for brown
hair because I have one forbrown hair too I just put it in
with my conditioner and, yeah,it dilutes it just a little bit.
But if you do it like everyother shampoo and you do it that
way, it's perfect.
But if they truly are losingtheir color pigment, you might
want to hit them hard with thetreatment and tell them to use
(20:15):
it in between their shampoo andtheir conditioner.
Leave it on.
You can leave it on, I think,up to like five minutes and it
really will give them thevibrancy they've been missing.
I'll leave a link in the shownotes if you want more
information, and that'll linkyou to Euphora's website and you
can read a little bit moreabout that.
Don't be afraid to add morewarmth to your formula than what
(20:39):
you think you need.
Okay, reds are completelydifferent than, say, brunettes,
because most brunettes, right,they're like I don't want to see
warmth and they want this ashycolor.
And so in our minds we keepadding ash, ash, ash.
But with redheads you have toadd warmth, but you have to
control it.
Red hair needs the warmth, butit just needs to be controlled.
(21:04):
So what does that mean?
It means that copper, auburnand strawberry blondes each
reflect the light differently.
So mix warm and neutral tonesto create believable dimensional
reds.
So, at each level, you're goingto have to up the orange,
you're going to have to up thegold, or if you want to drop it,
(21:27):
you're going to have to up theviolet right, like what we were
talking about.
You always want to use bondbuilders with red hair color.
Almost every line out there nowhas a bond builder, but if
you're working on previouslycolored red hair, oh my gosh,
does this help to preserve thetone?
It really truly does.
(21:47):
Science is a wonderful thing,don't you think?
When it came to creating thesebond builders?
Wow, I don't even know how wedo it without them.
I mean, it's almost impossibleto over-process somebody's hair
with the bond builders.
Don't hold me to that, please.
Don't say Denise told me that Iwould never ruin anybody's hair
because I use bond builders.
No, no, that's not what I'msaying.
(22:07):
But it does make it verydifficult because the bond
builders really do go in thereand help to reconstruct the
damage that's being done bybreaking the bonds down, to put
the color in there in the firstplace.
Maybe I need to do a wholething on bond builders and how
(22:28):
they work.
And do not forget you have tohave to have to educate your
client.
They have to be using asulfate-free, color-safe shampoo
.
This is a non-negotiable.
For reds it is.
If they're going to take theirhard-earned cash and get you to
color their hair red not get you, but ask you they have to be
(22:50):
protecting it.
What's the point?
Because reds fade faster thanany other color out there and
you have to tell them that Don'tjust go in there going, okay,
I'll turn you red withoutletting them know what to expect
, because they will come back inin three shampoos and go my
red's no longer in my hair andthey're going to blame it on you
, not themselves, not by usingcheap shampoo.
(23:12):
They're going to blame it onyou because you didn't educate
them on what to use in theirhair.
Just saying you have to educateyour client.
You should be doing this everysingle client who sits down in
your chair, not just theredheads, but that's a different
conversation.
Okay Now, with this new way ofanalyzing depth and figuring out
(23:32):
the natural level of theredheads, you're going to start
nailing your starting level withconfidence.
You're going to take those blackand white pictures.
You're going to compare them toyour natural levels.
You're also going to avoid thedreaded root glow or the dull
ends.
Right, I told you how to dothat.
You're going to give yourredhead clients long lasting,
(23:52):
radiant, believable color byusing glosses and really amping
up the warmth in their hair, andyou're going to show up behind
the chair as the expert you arewith confidence.
You're going to love this.
So we're going to take somequestions at the end here that
people have asked me online.
(24:13):
But if redheads have everthrown you for a loop, please
just try the black and whitephoto trick at your next
appointment and pair it with thecolor tips that we just went
over, and you can always go grabmy redhead color cheat sheet.
I'll leave the link in the shownotes.
All you have to do is print itoff.
All these cheat sheets you guysare going to create a notebook
(24:37):
for, for um, whatever I'mlaughing at myself because I
have cheat sheets for everything.
I just want to give all thisinformation away.
I just want you guys to knoweverything.
I want you to be successfulbehind the chair.
I want you to get out there andmake a lot of money and feel
confident and all that goodstuff.
So if you have somebody elsewho's starting out in their
(24:59):
beauty career, share this anddon't forget to subscribe.
Also, go over and check out myYouTube channel all about hair
with Denise for more tutorials.
So let's take some listener Qand A's.
Somebody asked me what's yourgo-to formula for gray coverage
on redheads.
It's going to be different forevery redhead, but you do want
to start with a thoroughconsultation to determine the
(25:21):
percentage of gray, if they haveany.
And for 50% or more gray, youhave to anchor your formula with
a mix of natural, natural, warmor gold tones to replace any
melanin and create believablevibrancy, because if not, it's
going to get too dull.
Believable vibrancy Because ifnot it's going to get too dull.
(25:42):
And you have to use your colorbrand's guidelines.
Remember, on redheads, vibrantfashion.
Reds without an anchor can gopink or hollow over gray.
Definitely, make sure thatyou're taking your black and
white picture to see whereyou're starting out.
And I was going to say one morething on that Consultation Make
(26:03):
sure you know what your clientis looking for Lots and lots of
pictures.
Make a Pinterest page that hastons of different pictures for
redheads, because there areviolet redheads, there's golden
redheads, there's auburns,there's coppers, there's penny
copper, there's what was thatone Cowboy copper that was going
(26:23):
around?
You got to know becauseeverybody's going to call it
differently.
So you have to go by picturesand then when they show you a
picture, you want to say what doyou like about this picture?
Because everybody sees colordifferently.
So maybe you're seeing a copperand in your eyes you're seeing
orange, but in their eyesthey're seeing gold.
You're like, what the heck?
(26:44):
Okay, you have to ask thequestions.
If they just sit down in yourchair and they say, hey, I want
my hair to be Auburn, you got toknow what Auburn means to them
and their eyeballs, okay.
So make sure you're startingwith lots of pictures.
And here's another tip whenyou're formulating for gray
coverage on redheads, drop thelevel slightly to just get a
(27:06):
denser pigment and bettercoverage.
That might save you more thananything else.
Just drop it half a shade and Ibet you'll get better coverage.
Okay, and you're definitely notgoing to get hot roots that way
.
Okay, here's another questionhow can I tone down overly
orange or brassy red?
(27:27):
Brassy reds often happen whenthere's not enough depth or the
underlying pigment wasn'tsupported properly.
This means that you've eitherlightened them too light and
then you didn't put on the righttone level of color, or there's
just not enough depth.
So when you're at like a levelsix, or maybe you're taking
(27:52):
deeper than that, a five youneed to put in a little bit of
blue or violet pigment to makeit believable.
You cannot go in and say, well,you just can't do that.
I'm like you can't put a levelseven on a four and think that
no, you have to.
You have to put a little bit ofviolet in there.
You can gloss with a cool redor red violet demi-permanent,
(28:15):
and that will help take out someof that orange or that
brassiness.
But you want to avoidover-lightening it, because if
you lift it too far the warmthgoes wild.
So you don't need to cancel thewarmth completely, you just
need to redirect it to the righttone.
Family.
And again, you got to pull outyour color guide.
(28:37):
Let me know if you need a colorguide.
I will email you a color guide.
Here's a question.
Now, this wasn't reallysomebody who asked me, I asked
it of myself and then I had todig up the answer.
Can I use the black and whitetrick on clients with red
extensions or toppers?
And actually you can't reliablydo this because the black and
(29:00):
white photo trick it works beston natural hair or hair that's
consistently colored.
Extensions and toppers areoften made from and they're
processed differently andthey're different types of hair.
Sometimes they're not even realhair, so the reflectivity might
not match what we're used to.
So in this case you might use alevel swatch comparison in
(29:21):
natural light for more accuracy.
I know it kind of sucks, butmost of the time we're dealing
with natural hair.
The question is, what gloss doyou recommend for keeping red
vibrant between appointments?
And you can use a customdemi-permanent gloss with a
small amount of the client'soriginal red tone, like in
Euphora.
We have a clear gloss in the noammonia, and so you could do
(29:45):
that and then just put just alittle bit of of their original
red tone that you've made themat their appointment.
Or you can mix a clear glosswith just a few drops of the red
accent tone or intensifier, andmost lines have something like
that.
Or, like I said before, myfavorite is the Revive treatment
.
Yes, there's a link.
(30:05):
You can get more informationfrom following that link, but
the Revive treatment it just itreally is a lot of pigment and
talk about if their hair isfading.
It actually helps to repair thehair as well.
So it's not just like a shampooor conditioner that you just
put in there.
You know, like some like on myAmazon storefront, I do have
(30:25):
some colored shampoos andconditioners and those are great
, but that's not a treatment.
So if your hair is a little bitporous, I would probably say
get a treatment and alwaysrecommend sulfate-free shampoo.
You want to make sure they'relimiting their heat styling and
that they're using UV protectionto extend their tones longevity
.
How do you handle banding fromold red color?
(30:49):
Well, first you got to assessthe porosity.
Banding happens when the midsand the ends are more porous and
absorb the pigment unevenly.
So here's what you do Gentlylift off the old tone with
whatever you have in yourarsenal.
I have clear boost, which iswonderful.
It just kind of raises it upabout a half a level.
(31:10):
Or you can mix up some of yourlightener.
Then you need to reprime thehair if needed, or fill it, and
then you apply fresh, balancedred with the correct undertone
of what you were wanting.
Then I always finish offredheads with a gloss just to
even everything out, and it justmakes everything super shiny.
(31:31):
Just avoid applying more coloron top.
You don't want to just go inthere and like, well, I'm going
to fix this band by just puttingmore color on.
No, no, it's just going to makethe banding worse and you're
not going to get what you'reafter.
You have to kind of take offwhat was on there to rebalance
it out.
I know I've already answeredthis one, but should I pre-fill
(31:52):
when going from blonde back tored?
Yes, yes, yes, yes, always,always fill, always fill.
If you're taking anybody, notjust redheads, but if you're
taking anybody more than twolevels darker than what they are
right now, just fill the hair.
Don't, don't, don't secondguess this, because you have to
(32:13):
fill the hair with the pigmentthat it doesn't have in order
for the color to last.
So blonde levels from levelseight, nine and 10, they don't
have enough gold or copper tosupport red pigment.
So if you don't fill, the redwill go hollow, it'll turn pink
or it's going to fade out waytoo fast.
So here's some tips For lighterreds, do two-thirds gold and
(32:36):
one-third your target shade.
For deeper reds, do one-thirdgold and two-thirds your target
shade, or just pre-fill it withgold-based EMI and then apply
your final red tone.
That's what I would suggestevery time because it lasts
longer, but sometimes we don'thave time to do that, so you can
add it to your formula and prayto the hair gods and hopefully
(32:56):
that helps you.
Final question is copper orauburn better for clients with
cool skin tones?
Ooh, I love this question somuch because skin tones.
If you're not taking that inconsideration with coloring
someone's hair, oh, you might bemissing out.
You have to look at the skintone in every formulation, not
(33:18):
just redheads, but everyformulation, because that's
what's going to depend on howyou're going to tone their hair.
Okay, so for cool skin tones,and do you know how to find the
skin tone when you look atsomebody?
Some people say look at theirwrists and if they have blue
veins they're cool skin, and ifthey have green veins they're
warm.
I don't know about that, butlook at their face and if they
(33:41):
look better in silver jewelry,that's usually skin tones.
If they look better in silverjewelry, that's usually skin
tones.
If they look better in goldjewelry, it's, you know, warm.
There's so many different waysto do this.
For cool skin tones, auburnusually works better because it
has more depth and neutralityand it has kind of violet
undertones.
Copper, which is brighter andmore orange, it can clash or
(34:07):
look too harsh with cool skintones.
So if your client loves warmthbut has a cool skin, try a soft
copper, brown or neutral copper,not too yellow, not too orange.
And here's a quick tip You'llwant to match the red tone to
both, not only the skin tone buttheir personality.
Some cooler toned clients lovefiery reds.
You just have to balance itcarefully.
(34:29):
You have to ask them that youknow what's their.
What is their personality likewhat?
What's their career?
What do they want to see?
Because you might want to breakthe rules in some cases.
That's up to you.
Remember, you can download a redhair color guide just by
following the links in my shownotes.
Don't forget to follow this formore information.
(34:51):
Don't forget to subscribe toour YouTube channel.
You'll be one of the first tosee when our color theory series
comes out.
Right now, you can just takeadvantage of our foundational
haircuts and all the otherepisodes we have all over there.
But always just go over andsubscribe.
Do me that favor.
I love it, love building thiscommunity and always remember
(35:11):
when you know better, you dobetter, and I'll talk to you
next week.
Thanks for tuning in to AllAbout Hair.
If you loved this episode, hit,subscribe, leave us a review
and share it with a fellowstylist or hair loving friend.
You want more tips, tools andbehind the scenes?
Goodness?
Follow me on YouTube or head tomy website at DeniseKylitzcom.
(35:32):
Yes, I know it's hard to spell,so don't worry, the link is in
the show notes.
Until next time, keep learning,keep creating and keep loving
what you do.
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