May 22, 2025 • 17 mins
A singular stretch of untamed wilderness lines Calirfonia's Northern Coast.
A landscape so rugged and dramatic that the state's infamous 'route one' avoids it's sheer cliffs and crashing waves.
My dog Noodles and I spend three days along this coast - while there we hear a love story.
-
We answer listener questions at the end, which include:
- How do you know where you're going next?
- Does your van get messy?
- Was there anything that surprised you in researching Plymouth Rock?
- What cryptid are you most scared of?
Recommendations:
Black Sands Beach near Shelter Cove:
https://sheltercovecalifornia.com/the-lost-coast-trail
Beer and Food:
Backpacking for the brave - make sure you reserve in advance:
https://www.alltrails.com/trail/us/california/lost-coast-trail-mattole-to-black-sands-beach
Works Cited:
https://www.savetheredwoods.org/project/lost-coast-redwoods/
https://www.parks.ca.gov/?page_id=28172
https://www.aspireadventurerunning.com/the-lost-coast-the-ancestral-lands-of-the-sinkyone-people/
https://sheltercovecalifornia.com/the-lost-coast-trail
https://michaelbass.media/THE-LOST-COAST
https://www.visitredwoods.com/listing/shelter-cove-on-the-lost-coast/138/
https://www.visitcalifornia.com/experience/lost-coast/
Noah and Noodles here!
We want to extend a heartfelt thanks to every listener of Backroad Odyssey.
Your support fuels our passion and inspires us to keep sharing stories and discover overlooked locations.
Follow each adventure visually at:
https://www.instagram.com/backroadsodyssey/
Mark as Played
Transcript
Episode Transcript
Available transcripts are automatically generated. Complete accuracy is not guaranteed.
Speaker 1 (00:00):
Cruisin' down the street.
I wonder where this road wouldlead.
So many possibilities.
Care to share what you think.
Oh, noodle Dolls, what do yousee?
Back Road Odyssey.
(00:26):
This coast is wild,unpredictable, untouched.
Here, crashing waves greetscaling mountains, redwood
giants touch the sky.
This is one of California'slast remaining wildernesses.
This is one of California'slast remaining wildernesses.
(00:48):
This right here is the LostCoast.
Welcome to Van Life Diaries.
I'm your host, noah, joined asalways by my dog and co-host,
noodles the Woodle.
If you've been with the show,welcome back.
Always good to have you.
If you're new here, welcome.
Thanks for traveling with usToday in classic Van Life Diary
(01:12):
fashion.
The show will be relativelyunscripted, but interesting
Nonetheless, I assure you,because today we dive deep into
California's last remainingcoastal wilderness.
Dive deep into California'slast remaining coastal
wilderness, the Lost Coast, alandscape so rugged, so dramatic
that California's mighty Route1 was forced to diverge eastward
(01:34):
.
We'll also answer listenerquestions at the end, as is
tradition in every Van LifeDiaries, but for now, noodles
and I drive the winding roads.
We follow the smell of thePacific to our destination today
Shelter Cove, which lies at thesouthernmost point of the Lost
(01:54):
Coast in Northern California.
In the three days we spendthere, we hike along the sea,
research the area's history andhear an unexpected love story
that I've yet to forget anddon't think I ever will.
Waves, like words, trickle Astream along the mountain to the
(02:18):
sea, pooling there.
A field of flowers flow,flowing you into me, alright.
So this is easily one of thewindiest, one of the most
unpredictable roads I've everdriven, but then it wouldn't be
(02:39):
where we're going to if it wasnot.
We, of course, are talkingabout the Lost Coast.
Noodles and I will baseourselves for the next three
days in Shelter Cove.
It's a small town of somethinglike 700 people at the
southernmost point of the LostCoast.
Where else do we start with thisrugged, often not known piece
(03:04):
of land in Northern California?
But the beginning?
For thousands of years, theSinkion people culled the rugged
coastlands extending from theocean to the south fork of the
Eel River.
Home Located some 200 milesnorth of modern San Francisco.
The land's continued healthremained a priority for the
(03:26):
Sinkion people.
They would rotationally burncoastal prairies and woodlands,
leave the larger redwoods begenerally and sustainably hunt
and forage both in the rough seabelow and within their forested
mountains above.
But they weren't entirelyunique In those days, the length
of the California coast wasunspoiled, unaltered.
(03:49):
So there were many with thismindset.
But when gold is discovered inCalifornia, this long stretch of
California wilderness begins towither, valley by valley, shore
by shore, inching its way north.
(04:17):
We've been here for two days sofar.
I've never experiencedsimultaneously such solitude and
felt like so much is going on.
A lot's happened.
Noodles ate a crab, barked atsea lions.
We went for a few hikes, walkedthe nearby black sand beach.
(04:37):
I'd love to talk at lengthabout any one of those, but I
had a conversation yesterdaythat I feel I have to share.
So Noodles and I were walking,it was slightly foggy, wet, and
a local comes up to us andstarts to talk.
I reckon she doesn't see manyvisitors here, but we talk and I
(04:59):
tell her why I'm here, I askher about herself and she goes
on to tell this story, the storyabout how her and her husband
of some 50 years ended up herein this cut-off town of
something like 700.
She says this you know, I'vealways loved the mountains.
(05:21):
I grew up in Colorado.
They always make me feel athome.
I knew eventually I'd like toend up by some mountains and my
husband always preferred, alwaysloved the sea and he wanted to
end up by the sea.
That's where he felt he had tobe.
Then she takes a pause and shelooks at me and says when it
(05:49):
came to retire we tried to lookfor both.
And here we are in Shelter Cove.
I have my mountains, he has hissea.
It was work, but we're happyhere.
(06:16):
She then said goodbye, leavingNoodles and I to watch her as
she faded into the fog in herlight blue coat.
Called by her song, we followed.
We came.
A cove by any other name woulda shelter remain?
(06:36):
The glint of gold always writesa story we're all too familiar
with.
At this point, the Sinkianapushed off their land violently
and fatally in many cases, ascommercial logging ensues in the
name of progress.
By 1965, percent of the oncetwo million acres of old-growth
Californian redwoods remainSomehow someway.
(06:59):
The lost coast remainsrelatively unaltered to the
north.
From 1850, when Shelter Covewas founded onwards, the land in
Northern California, originallyinhabited by the Cinquean,
changes hands frequently.
As the land passes from companyto company, from person to
(07:25):
person, a consensus is reachedthis land is too remote, too
rugged to be practical orprofitable.
Simultaneously, by 1975, alatent environmental movement
opposing logging operationsmoving towards the coast begins
to surface.
1975 sees the creation ofSineon Wilderness State Park,
(07:48):
just south of Modern ShelterCove.
A series of lawsuits andconservation land grabs around
the area later ensue, andconservation land grabs around
the area later in soon, with thehelp, among others, of Save,
the Redwoods League and theintertribal Cinquean Wilderness
Council.
So at this time conservation iswinning.
But the final nail in theestablishment of California's
(08:11):
lost coast isn't either of thosethings.
It comes with the completion ofCalifornia's Route 1 in 1937.
It's simply too hard, tooexpensive to continue the
highway at that point.
And it's at this point in the30s, when the now inaccessible,
(08:34):
economically inactive land isdepopulated.
Everybody leaves.
This is one of California'slast remaining wildernesses.
This right here is the LostCoast.
All right, I'm sitting here, amountain behind me, the Pacific
(08:58):
in front, seals barking in thedistance, tempting noodles to do
the same.
Any direction you look isscenic.
It's virtually unaltered,uninhabited.
I've been here three days nowand I've finally got some
thoughts.
Three days now and I've finallygot I've got some thoughts.
Um so when I first got here Ithought, looking around at this
(09:25):
pristine landscape, that sheltercove didn't really fit in.
It felt out of place in thisvast wilderness here.
But then I remembered how hardit was to get here with the van,
but also just generally it'shard to get here With the van,
but also just generally it'shard to get here the winding
roads, the long drives.
And I was left with oneunavoidable fact really Anyone
(09:49):
who is here has to want to comehere.
They have to want to be here.
No one has ever, nor will theyever, stumble upon Shelter Cove
or stumble upon the Lost Coast.
It's impossible.
You have to want to come here.
You have to go out of your wayto view the mountains you love,
(10:10):
go out of your way to see thesea every morning and this, for
my new local friend and herhusband, is undeniably true.
It's what they did.
It would in so many ways beeasier for both of them to live
somewhere else, but toexperience this unparalleled
blending of mountains, a forestof sea without developments, a
(10:35):
forest of sea withoutdevelopments, without crowds,
that's a price that to somepeople, is worth paying.
Yet this one is yours and thisone is mine, both of them ours.
(11:00):
How could we not stay and sitand spend and feel our final
hours?
This coast is wild,unpredictable, untouched.
(11:28):
Here, crashing waves greetscaling mountains, redwood
giants touch the sky.
This is one of California'slast remaining wildernesses.
To get here to appreciate it,you've got to treat it as such.
(11:54):
I have some final thoughts and astory at the end, but for now
let's get to listener questions.
How do you decide where you'regoing next?
Great question, thank you.
It always starts with weather.
It really always does.
If it's going to be sunny formy solar, if it's going to be
cold, hot, I want me and Noodlesto be comfortable in the van.
(12:15):
I don't want to encounterstorms or anything like that.
So it starts with weather.
But then I think about what I'dfind interesting and what I
think you'd find interesting aswell.
I want to kind of tell stories,share locations that people
overlook, and I look for thosethat people overlook and I look
(12:36):
for those.
I use an app called RoadTrippers, among other things, to
find these locations, thesestories, and I go from there.
But it always starts with theweather.
Does your van get messy?
For sure it does.
It's my studio, it's my home,my kitchen, everything.
And with such a small space,the moment you put anything
(12:59):
anywhere, it becomes messy.
I try to clean it.
Every time I go to a spot, alocation, I clean it up, I
organize, but it's hard.
You know it's a small space andyeah, yeah, any video you see
of these van life people, rvpeople, who have pristine
(13:21):
looking places is not thereality of it, unless you know
they're much better and morecleanly and on top of it than I
am, which could be the case, Idon't know, but yeah, it gets
messy for sure.
Was there anything thatsurprised you in researching the
story of Plymouth Rock?
I don't know, but yeah, it getsmessy for sure.
Was there anything thatsurprised you in researching the
story of Plymouth Rock?
I mean, first of all, I didn'texpect it to be a true story.
(13:50):
I've heard throughout my lifethat the rock is more symbolic
than anything, so I don't knowif anything surprised me that
much.
But what interested me a lotand maybe surprised me a little
bit, is the fact that theAnglican church, specifically,
(14:13):
is an extension of the monarchyand vice versa, and consequently
was used as a form of politicalcontrol to keep everybody in
line with.
You know, morally, but alsopolitically, what was going on
within England people to try toget out of England.
(14:34):
Because of that, I'd say, thatinterested me a lot and the
extent of that, I guess, didsurprise me.
So, yeah, more than anything,that surprised me the most, that
would not have been a fun timeto live, that's for sure.
What cryptid are you most scaredof?
(14:56):
We've been doing a lot ofcryptid episodes.
I had this idea, and reach outto me if you have any
recommendationsbackroadodysseypod at gmailcom.
I had this idea of doing aseries on every cryptid for
every state.
So if you have any recs, reachout to me.
But going back to what youasked, so, what cryptid am I
(15:19):
most scared of?
Probably like the psychedeliccryptids you know, like Mothman,
who aren't necessarily likephysically going to come and get
you.
Yeah, so I don't know if Icould say a specific one, but
anything that's you know, gotmind powers or anything like
(15:40):
that.
Again, hey, reach out to me.
Backroadodysseypod at gmailcom.
Would love to hear from you.
Would love to do an episode dotcom.
We'd love to hear from you.
We'd love to do an episode.
It's Noah here.
Thanks for traveling with ustoday.
First I'd like to say thisCalifornia has something like 40
million people.
I'd been through all the majorcities.
(16:00):
I'd been kind of peopled outand it's a good feeling when I
was able to venture to the lostcoast, to be in a landscape that
seems impenetrable, untouchedNature is in charge there right
(16:20):
and that felt fantastic,especially after being in the
southern part of California,which I enjoyed tremendously too
, but to feel that solitude wasreally special.
I have some recommendations.
So there's a beautiful blacksand rock, sand slash rock beach
that's nearby Shelter Cove.
Jippo Ale Mill has good foodand beer in Shelter Cove, and
(16:43):
the Lost Coast Trail is a three,four day hike that I would have
loved to do but couldn't at thetime.
It either starts or ends atShelter Cove, just east of
Shelter Cove, depending on yourpreference, so check that out.
I will add links in the shownotes to each one of those.
It was at the Black Sand Beach,actually with noodles, and
(17:05):
that's where she ate a live crab.
So that was.
That's not really a story, butthat did happen.
I'd also like to thank theauthor of the poem read
throughout the episode today,christian Collado, a Chicago
author, voice actor and a goodfriend.
So thank you to Christian and,if you find value in the show,
if you'd like to see us continueto improve rating and
(17:28):
subscribing is the best way thatyou can help Noodles and I do
that, so I really appreciateevery second you spend listening
, and if you rate or subscribe,that's great as well.
Thanks for joining us in thevan just for a little bit.
Be good to each other.
Where to next?
Cruisin' down the street.
I wonder where this road wouldlead.
So many possibilities.
Care to share what you think.
Oh, noodle Dolls, what do yousee?
Back Road Odyssey.
(00:26):
This coast is wild,unpredictable, untouched.
Here, crashing waves greetscaling mountains, redwood
giants touch the sky.
This is one of California'slast remaining wildernesses.
This is one of California'slast remaining wildernesses.
(00:48):
This right here is the LostCoast.
Welcome to Van Life Diaries.
I'm your host, noah, joined asalways by my dog and co-host,
noodles the Woodle.
If you've been with the show,welcome back.
Always good to have you.
If you're new here, welcome.
Thanks for traveling with usToday in classic Van Life Diary
(01:12):
fashion.
The show will be relativelyunscripted, but interesting
Nonetheless, I assure you,because today we dive deep into
California's last remainingcoastal wilderness.
Dive deep into California'slast remaining coastal
wilderness, the Lost Coast, alandscape so rugged, so dramatic
that California's mighty Route1 was forced to diverge eastward
(01:34):
.
We'll also answer listenerquestions at the end, as is
tradition in every Van LifeDiaries, but for now, noodles
and I drive the winding roads.
We follow the smell of thePacific to our destination today
Shelter Cove, which lies at thesouthernmost point of the Lost
(01:54):
Coast in Northern California.
In the three days we spendthere, we hike along the sea,
research the area's history andhear an unexpected love story
that I've yet to forget anddon't think I ever will.
Waves, like words, trickle Astream along the mountain to the
(02:18):
sea, pooling there.
A field of flowers flow,flowing you into me, alright.
So this is easily one of thewindiest, one of the most
unpredictable roads I've everdriven, but then it wouldn't be
(02:39):
where we're going to if it wasnot.
We, of course, are talkingabout the Lost Coast.
Noodles and I will baseourselves for the next three
days in Shelter Cove.
It's a small town of somethinglike 700 people at the
southernmost point of the LostCoast.
Where else do we start with thisrugged, often not known piece
(03:04):
of land in Northern California?
But the beginning?
For thousands of years, theSinkion people culled the rugged
coastlands extending from theocean to the south fork of the
Eel River.
Home Located some 200 milesnorth of modern San Francisco.
The land's continued healthremained a priority for the
(03:26):
Sinkion people.
They would rotationally burncoastal prairies and woodlands,
leave the larger redwoods begenerally and sustainably hunt
and forage both in the rough seabelow and within their forested
mountains above.
But they weren't entirelyunique In those days, the length
of the California coast wasunspoiled, unaltered.
(03:49):
So there were many with thismindset.
But when gold is discovered inCalifornia, this long stretch of
California wilderness begins towither, valley by valley, shore
by shore, inching its way north.
(04:17):
We've been here for two days sofar.
I've never experiencedsimultaneously such solitude and
felt like so much is going on.
A lot's happened.
Noodles ate a crab, barked atsea lions.
We went for a few hikes, walkedthe nearby black sand beach.
(04:37):
I'd love to talk at lengthabout any one of those, but I
had a conversation yesterdaythat I feel I have to share.
So Noodles and I were walking,it was slightly foggy, wet, and
a local comes up to us andstarts to talk.
I reckon she doesn't see manyvisitors here, but we talk and I
(04:59):
tell her why I'm here, I askher about herself and she goes
on to tell this story, the storyabout how her and her husband
of some 50 years ended up herein this cut-off town of
something like 700.
She says this you know, I'vealways loved the mountains.
(05:21):
I grew up in Colorado.
They always make me feel athome.
I knew eventually I'd like toend up by some mountains and my
husband always preferred, alwaysloved the sea and he wanted to
end up by the sea.
That's where he felt he had tobe.
Then she takes a pause and shelooks at me and says when it
(05:49):
came to retire we tried to lookfor both.
And here we are in Shelter Cove.
I have my mountains, he has hissea.
It was work, but we're happyhere.
(06:16):
She then said goodbye, leavingNoodles and I to watch her as
she faded into the fog in herlight blue coat.
Called by her song, we followed.
We came.
A cove by any other name woulda shelter remain?
(06:36):
The glint of gold always writesa story we're all too familiar
with.
At this point, the Sinkianapushed off their land violently
and fatally in many cases, ascommercial logging ensues in the
name of progress.
By 1965, percent of the oncetwo million acres of old-growth
Californian redwoods remainSomehow someway.
(06:59):
The lost coast remainsrelatively unaltered to the
north.
From 1850, when Shelter Covewas founded onwards, the land in
Northern California, originallyinhabited by the Cinquean,
changes hands frequently.
As the land passes from companyto company, from person to
(07:25):
person, a consensus is reachedthis land is too remote, too
rugged to be practical orprofitable.
Simultaneously, by 1975, alatent environmental movement
opposing logging operationsmoving towards the coast begins
to surface.
1975 sees the creation ofSineon Wilderness State Park,
(07:48):
just south of Modern ShelterCove.
A series of lawsuits andconservation land grabs around
the area later ensue, andconservation land grabs around
the area later in soon, with thehelp, among others, of Save,
the Redwoods League and theintertribal Cinquean Wilderness
Council.
So at this time conservation iswinning.
But the final nail in theestablishment of California's
(08:11):
lost coast isn't either of thosethings.
It comes with the completion ofCalifornia's Route 1 in 1937.
It's simply too hard, tooexpensive to continue the
highway at that point.
And it's at this point in the30s, when the now inaccessible,
(08:34):
economically inactive land isdepopulated.
Everybody leaves.
This is one of California'slast remaining wildernesses.
This right here is the LostCoast.
All right, I'm sitting here, amountain behind me, the Pacific
(08:58):
in front, seals barking in thedistance, tempting noodles to do
the same.
Any direction you look isscenic.
It's virtually unaltered,uninhabited.
I've been here three days nowand I've finally got some
thoughts.
Three days now and I've finallygot I've got some thoughts.
Um so when I first got here Ithought, looking around at this
(09:25):
pristine landscape, that sheltercove didn't really fit in.
It felt out of place in thisvast wilderness here.
But then I remembered how hardit was to get here with the van,
but also just generally it'shard to get here With the van,
but also just generally it'shard to get here the winding
roads, the long drives.
And I was left with oneunavoidable fact really Anyone
(09:49):
who is here has to want to comehere.
They have to want to be here.
No one has ever, nor will theyever, stumble upon Shelter Cove
or stumble upon the Lost Coast.
It's impossible.
You have to want to come here.
You have to go out of your wayto view the mountains you love,
(10:10):
go out of your way to see thesea every morning and this, for
my new local friend and herhusband, is undeniably true.
It's what they did.
It would in so many ways beeasier for both of them to live
somewhere else, but toexperience this unparalleled
blending of mountains, a forestof sea without developments, a
(10:35):
forest of sea withoutdevelopments, without crowds,
that's a price that to somepeople, is worth paying.
Yet this one is yours and thisone is mine, both of them ours.
(11:00):
How could we not stay and sitand spend and feel our final
hours?
This coast is wild,unpredictable, untouched.
(11:28):
Here, crashing waves greetscaling mountains, redwood
giants touch the sky.
This is one of California'slast remaining wildernesses.
To get here to appreciate it,you've got to treat it as such.
(11:54):
I have some final thoughts and astory at the end, but for now
let's get to listener questions.
How do you decide where you'regoing next?
Great question, thank you.
It always starts with weather.
It really always does.
If it's going to be sunny formy solar, if it's going to be
cold, hot, I want me and Noodlesto be comfortable in the van.
(12:15):
I don't want to encounterstorms or anything like that.
So it starts with weather.
But then I think about what I'dfind interesting and what I
think you'd find interesting aswell.
I want to kind of tell stories,share locations that people
overlook, and I look for thosethat people overlook and I look
(12:36):
for those.
I use an app called RoadTrippers, among other things, to
find these locations, thesestories, and I go from there.
But it always starts with theweather.
Does your van get messy?
For sure it does.
It's my studio, it's my home,my kitchen, everything.
And with such a small space,the moment you put anything
(12:59):
anywhere, it becomes messy.
I try to clean it.
Every time I go to a spot, alocation, I clean it up, I
organize, but it's hard.
You know it's a small space andyeah, yeah, any video you see
of these van life people, rvpeople, who have pristine
(13:21):
looking places is not thereality of it, unless you know
they're much better and morecleanly and on top of it than I
am, which could be the case, Idon't know, but yeah, it gets
messy for sure.
Was there anything thatsurprised you in researching the
story of Plymouth Rock?
I don't know, but yeah, it getsmessy for sure.
Was there anything thatsurprised you in researching the
story of Plymouth Rock?
I mean, first of all, I didn'texpect it to be a true story.
(13:50):
I've heard throughout my lifethat the rock is more symbolic
than anything, so I don't knowif anything surprised me that
much.
But what interested me a lotand maybe surprised me a little
bit, is the fact that theAnglican church, specifically,
(14:13):
is an extension of the monarchyand vice versa, and consequently
was used as a form of politicalcontrol to keep everybody in
line with.
You know, morally, but alsopolitically, what was going on
within England people to try toget out of England.
(14:34):
Because of that, I'd say, thatinterested me a lot and the
extent of that, I guess, didsurprise me.
So, yeah, more than anything,that surprised me the most, that
would not have been a fun timeto live, that's for sure.
What cryptid are you most scaredof?
(14:56):
We've been doing a lot ofcryptid episodes.
I had this idea, and reach outto me if you have any
recommendationsbackroadodysseypod at gmailcom.
I had this idea of doing aseries on every cryptid for
every state.
So if you have any recs, reachout to me.
But going back to what youasked, so, what cryptid am I
(15:19):
most scared of?
Probably like the psychedeliccryptids you know, like Mothman,
who aren't necessarily likephysically going to come and get
you.
Yeah, so I don't know if Icould say a specific one, but
anything that's you know, gotmind powers or anything like
(15:40):
that.
Again, hey, reach out to me.
Backroadodysseypod at gmailcom.
Would love to hear from you.
Would love to do an episode dotcom.
We'd love to hear from you.
We'd love to do an episode.
It's Noah here.
Thanks for traveling with ustoday.
First I'd like to say thisCalifornia has something like 40
million people.
I'd been through all the majorcities.
(16:00):
I'd been kind of peopled outand it's a good feeling when I
was able to venture to the lostcoast, to be in a landscape that
seems impenetrable, untouchedNature is in charge there right
(16:20):
and that felt fantastic,especially after being in the
southern part of California,which I enjoyed tremendously too
, but to feel that solitude wasreally special.
I have some recommendations.
So there's a beautiful blacksand rock, sand slash rock beach
that's nearby Shelter Cove.
Jippo Ale Mill has good foodand beer in Shelter Cove, and
(16:43):
the Lost Coast Trail is a three,four day hike that I would have
loved to do but couldn't at thetime.
It either starts or ends atShelter Cove, just east of
Shelter Cove, depending on yourpreference, so check that out.
I will add links in the shownotes to each one of those.
It was at the Black Sand Beach,actually with noodles, and
(17:05):
that's where she ate a live crab.
So that was.
That's not really a story, butthat did happen.
I'd also like to thank theauthor of the poem read
throughout the episode today,christian Collado, a Chicago
author, voice actor and a goodfriend.
So thank you to Christian and,if you find value in the show,
if you'd like to see us continueto improve rating and
(17:28):
subscribing is the best way thatyou can help Noodles and I do
that, so I really appreciateevery second you spend listening
, and if you rate or subscribe,that's great as well.
Thanks for joining us in thevan just for a little bit.
Be good to each other.
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