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April 5, 2025 25 mins

What happens when your brand new air conditioning system struggles to maintain comfort in your home? For Chad in Michigan, the culprit was hiding beneath his floors—a crawl space with humidity levels reaching 78%, creating that persistent "clammy cool feeling" throughout his living space.

This episode takes you through Chad's remarkable DIY crawl space transformation journey. Despite being new to crawl space renovation, Chad tackled this challenging project systematically, starting with a dehumidifier installation and progressing to a complete encapsulation. He shares honest insights about the difficulties of working with vapor barriers solo, the importance of mechanical fasteners and proper sealing techniques, and the dramatic difference a professional crawl space door makes compared to his original makeshift entrance.

The before-and-after contrast is stunning. We explore how Chad converted a space with disintegrating plastic barriers, loose insulation, and significant moisture issues into a clean environment he can now enter without respiratory protection. Chad's candid discussion about using spray foam insulation for rim joists, proper ductwork treatment, and moisture monitoring systems provides valuable guidance for homeowners considering similar projects.

Beyond the technical aspects, Chad reflects on the tangible improvements in his home's comfort, the unexpected challenges he encountered, and which investment decisions provided the greatest return. His story demonstrates how addressing the often-overlooked crawl space can resolve persistent comfort issues that even new HVAC systems can't fix on their own.

Ready to transform your crawl space and dramatically improve your home's comfort? Listen now and discover practical insights from someone who's successfully completed the journey.

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Check out Michael's book, "Crawl Space Repair Myths-Busted" now available on Amazon!

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Transcript

Episode Transcript

Available transcripts are automatically generated. Complete accuracy is not guaranteed.
Speaker 1 (00:05):
Okay, so I have Chad here, from the great state of
Michigan and you know littleknown to me.
A few years ago I didn'trealize Michigan had a very many
crawl spaces.
I thought it was mostlybasements and slabs, but you do
have quite a few crawl spaces inMichigan and Chad.
I appreciate you sharing yourjourney to fix your crawl space
with us on this video.
So about when did you start theproject and what made you

(00:26):
decide, you know, to actuallyfix it?
What was some of the triggersthat you decided, hey, I need to
take care of this.

Speaker 2 (00:33):
Yeah, yeah, Thanks, Michael, Thanks for having me.
I would say about a month nowis when I initially started and
basically we had a new centralair put in.
The humidity has always beenhigh in this house it's a high
water table where we live kindof in the country and it was
struggling to get the relativehumidity below, I don't know, 58

(00:57):
to 56 percent.
You know, even cranking the air, and then I sampled in the
crawl space at a few differentlocations, crank in the air, and
then I sampled in the crawlspace at a few different
locations and it was averagingas high as 75 to 78 percent.
You know, and that's when itcorresponded well with your
Fourth of July sale.
Yeah, that's when it began.

(01:18):
I've been looking at the sitefor a long time and the timing
just worked out.

Speaker 1 (01:24):
All right.
Well, I've got this image uphere of the before and and you
know I appreciate you sendingthese to us.
These are, these are verypowerful.
It looks like it was in, youknow, pretty disarray.
Uh, this, uh.
Now I see that you did have avent sealed.
Is this, uh, was this alreadysealed, or is this something
that you sealed and then tookthe before picture?

Speaker 2 (01:47):
Yeah, so this specific before picture.
So I did do this project inphases, after reaching out to
the Crawl Space Manager customerservice just asking if that
would be OK.
Again, it was all new to me.
I did watch hours of videos.
So in this specific picture Ialready have the Aprilaire EO80.
As you can see, the dischargeline going to the sump and I put

(02:12):
that vent block in.
So this is basically nothingdone.
I just installed the dehu toget the humidity under control.

Speaker 1 (02:21):
That's great.
That's great.
That's a good first phase.
I tell people all the time.
You know, if you can't doanything or you're limited on
what you can do, a dehumidifieris always a good first step.
The only way I would have asecond step to that is if you
have a lot of standing water.
A dehumidifier and a sump pumpwould be a great first step if

(02:42):
you have a lot of standing water.
I know you do have some issueswith flooding in this crawl
space that we'll get into herein a minute but it doesn't look
like it was flooding to thepoint to where it could have
compromised the dehumidifier.
Is that correct?

Speaker 2 (02:56):
Yeah, no, it wouldn't really flood so much.
I mean it does have a sump andperimeter drainage to the sump,
but the sump would run a lot andjust the humidity was out of
control.
You can see, like I hadn'ttouched anything in this crawl
space there was severalloose-laid barriers and there

(03:17):
would be moisture in betweenthem.
Old trim pieces scatteredaround, just lots of stuff,
insulation that was holdingmoisture, that was what I
started with.

Speaker 1 (03:29):
Speaking of insulation holding moisture, I'm
guessing this R-19, or it lookslike R-13, bad insulation they
put around the ductwork.
I'm sure it was probablyholding quite a bit in the
summer.
Is that correct?

Speaker 2 (03:40):
Yes, yeah, and then just the atmosphere down there,
right.
So to work, I had four airscrubbers going.
So for anyone not familiar withan air scrubber, it looks like
a shop fan, almost like aturbocharger, but it generally
has a pre-filter like a Fertusfilter, and then a HEPA filter,
and I had four of them goingjust to keep the fiberglass

(04:01):
under control as I was working,because there's so much of it.

Speaker 1 (04:05):
So were you noticing any air quality issues up in
your living space?
Is that what made you tacklethis?
Or you just knew that thiswould help fix, or at least
prevent, foundation problems inthe future?
What was your motivation, Iguess, for getting going?

Speaker 2 (04:19):
You know it was the humidity, because even with you
know, the brand-new AC unit, itwas always like a clammy.
Even with you know the brandnew AC unit, it was always like
a clammy cool feeling, you know,and it just would never get, no
matter how low you put it.
You know, relatively, you knowwe didn't put it down to 40, but
even at, say, 70 or 68, yeah,it was cold, but it was like a
damp cold, it was justuncomfortable.

Speaker 1 (04:40):
Oh, that's a good point.
Um, I appreciate you raisingthat, because part of the job of
the hvac unit is to removehumidity.
But if there's so much that itcan't get a hold of that and it
looks like the wood is in prettygood shape, I don't know if you
had to do a lot of moldtreatment on the wood, but
apparently you got to thisbefore it got too out of control

(05:01):
on the mold side yeah, I didnotice it dramatically went up
this year.

Speaker 2 (05:06):
I don't know if I don't know the reason of it.
Honestly, some of that looseweight barrier, um, it was
almost disintegrating.
I noticed over the we've beenhere seven years, um, and some
of the pieces I would grab andthey would just almost turn to
dust, so to say they would justinto nothing.
And this was the year I knew wehad to do something about it

(05:26):
because it was the mostnoticeable upstairs.
Even with a new condensing unitoutside, it just couldn't keep
up with the amount of moisturein the air.

Speaker 1 (05:35):
That's great.
This is the last before I'mgoing to show and then we'll
start to get into some of thework you did.
This door looks pretty gnarly.

Speaker 2 (05:42):
Yeah, that came with the house.
This door looks pretty gnarlyyeah that came with the house.

Speaker 1 (05:45):
That's right.
That's right.
Is that duct tape, your attemptto make the dehu work better?
Is that what that is?

Speaker 2 (05:53):
That's exactly right.
So there was never duct tapethere, it was just a board with
you could see that rock thatwould hold it to keep critters
out.
But once I had the dehu inthere, you know I wanted to keep
my conditioned air in there.
Um, but once I had the dehu inthere, you know I want I wanted
to keep my conditioned air inthere.
So just as I was going in andout and working on this in
phases, I would reduct tape it.
I'd reduct tape that probably40 times.

Speaker 1 (06:15):
I bet your your soil also looks pretty sandy.
Is that pretty common in yourarea to have that?
Type of soil Is that.

Speaker 2 (06:20):
Yes, very sandy, very soft.

Speaker 1 (06:22):
Yeah, us, us clay guys, we're jealous of that kind
of soil.
I got to dig the hard stuff.
It's not.

Speaker 2 (06:28):
Yeah.

Speaker 1 (06:29):
All right, so let's get into some afters, and what
I'll do for the viewers I showedyou three before is I'm going
to show you an after to thefirst picture and then I'll put
those pictures side by side.
So here's the after to thefirst picture.
Let's talk about this one.
It looks like you did a littlebit of foundation repair, maybe

(06:50):
you had a little post-checkthere.

Speaker 2 (06:51):
I didn't see that in the before picture.
Is that correct?
Yeah, so there actually was apost-check there.
Just at that phase I had takenit out, but I had noticed from
the humidity everything on thepost-check started to have
surface rust and it was kindkind of binding up.
So I just replaced it withanother one, tried to put the
same tension on it.
You know I it looked like theyhad they have a double beam

(07:12):
there, um, so they had a boardthat wasn't in that great of a
shape, so they double beamed itand then put the post jack.

Speaker 1 (07:18):
So I just put a new jack and then, uh, new wood
underneath it very good, verygood, and I would encourage I
don't know what you use and I'mnot calling you out for anything
, but I would encourage this tobe a cap block or
pressure-treated wood, just incase you get some kind of
moisture trapped underneath thiswood.
It's a good idea to have thatthere, so it looks like it's a

(07:43):
pretty good, stable piece ofwood.
But that's a good thing to do,and let's go ahead and show the
side by side here, so that wayour viewers can see what it
looks like.
A picture's worth a thousandwords.
Man, you did a fantastic job onthis.
Tell us how hard was this to do?

Speaker 2 (08:00):
This was.
I mean.
I like to DIY stuff to anextent.
I know my limit and this was atthe limit.
I did this 99% by myself.
I was fortunate enough to havemy neighbor.
I did the pillars, the wallsand then the ground plastic.
My neighbor helped me juststretch out the large piece of

(08:21):
ground plastic that went fromthe wall piece through where
these pillars are.
But besides that I dideverything on my own.
It is extremely difficult toroll with that plastic.
I did use butyl tapemechanically fastened with ram
sets, and then I also used anadhesive below the butyl tape.

(08:43):
My suggestion to anyone tryingit would be pay a buddy or a
second set of hands when you'reworking along the wall.
It is worth it.
It would have helped outtremendously.

Speaker 1 (08:57):
That's great.
Now, I always recommend that.
Butyl tape is a great set ofhands.
Not as good as a buddy,obviously, but it does assist.
Is that a true statement, or amI overselling the butyl tape?
A little bit of hands.
Not as good as a buddy,obviously, but it does assist.
Is that a true statement, or amI overselling the butyl tape a
little bit?

Speaker 2 (09:09):
No, it does, because you can even just stick it
forward a foot or two or yourarm span.
You can kind of work at shapingthe plastic down.
And then I actually used from afloor installation.
I had a little J roller and Iwould then J roll onto the
beetle tape and then J roll theadhesive.

Speaker 1 (09:29):
That's a great idea, and I appreciate you telling us
about the Ram set.
That's something I overlook.
Ram sets can be great.
They're limited.
Normally they're a single shot.
Unless you get, I think, theydo make a multi shot and they
can also sometimes be quitepowerful, so they have to be
backed down a little bit.
So I've seen them break someblock.

(09:50):
Did you have to do that to backyours down in order to make it
work?

Speaker 2 (09:56):
Yeah, so I was using, for the foundation was going
through the recommendation ontheir site.
It was the brown load.
That's the issue with it isthey're kind of inconsistent,
right the powder loads, you know, one shot's perfect, the next
one it's driving it into thebutyl tape too much, the next
one it doesn't sink it all theway.
So the washer isn't tight.

(10:17):
If I were to do it over again,I would spend the extra money to
rent the Hilti gun.
It was a significant cost, butthe reload time on the ram set
doing it by yourself it added asignificant amount of time to do
everything.

Speaker 1 (10:32):
Well and even worse is the Tapcon with the hammer
drill.
That even adds more time thanthe Ramset.

Speaker 2 (10:38):
Yeah.

Speaker 1 (10:38):
So yeah, I appreciate this.
Let's go to the slide thatshows now.
We didn't get a real goodpicture of the after with the
insulation on the ductwork, butI wanted to show that you did
take the insulation off theductwork.
And then was this already onthere, or did you add this?

Speaker 2 (10:56):
uh, this installation uh, so I actually redid that.
So there was reflectix on there, but it was just flush touching
the ductwork, so that it's notfinished yet.
But that is using a one inchspacer to create an air gap all
the way along the ductwork.
Good idea.
Yep, and's partially done, butthat's redone right there, the

(11:19):
main trunk where it comes downthe supply.

Speaker 1 (11:22):
Yeah, and for those of you that don't know, this
foil type ductwork let's sayit's an R5, that one inch air
gap can, depending on themanufacturer and how much air
space there is, you could raiseit quite a bit.
You could get that R value upquite a bit.
So that's what it means by thattape that raises it off of the
ductwork.
Am I explaining that correctly,chad?

Speaker 2 (11:44):
Yeah, yeah, and in my case I actually found they sold
their plastic spacer thatalready has an adhesive on it
and it actually has a lip.
So if you put it like on thebottom of that supply duct right
at the bottom, it would createone inch below that.
So when you wrap the insulationunder it, it's one inch coming
down and then one inch goingunderneath it.

(12:06):
So it actually works prettywell.

Speaker 1 (12:08):
So this compared to a fiberglass duct work.
What are your thoughts?

Speaker 2 (12:14):
That one, one million percent.
It's the mess.
You don't have to use arespirator, I mean.

Speaker 1 (12:25):
I take my shoes off and I go down there.
Now you probably don't even dothat to go in your house Is?

Speaker 2 (12:29):
that right.

Speaker 1 (12:32):
Depends on the day.
That's right.
So let's show the before andafter again.
Fantastic job, really great.
I I don't know, uh, you know,if anybody's giving you any
kudos on how well you did, butI'm giving you some.
You did, you did a wonderfuljob.

Speaker 2 (12:47):
So appreciate it, michael.

Speaker 1 (12:48):
Thank you very nice, very nice, and I like your, uh,
your triple leds.
These things are pretty cooltoo.
They shine in three differentdirections.
Or is that a quad?
Is that right?
Is that a triple?

Speaker 2 (12:57):
yeah, I think it's a triple.
Um, yeah, where did the I had?
Uh, you know, I was justordering packs of light bulbs
and it's really easy to breakthose off your head uh which you
will do so as you're draggingheavy stuff and uh, yeah, it's
easy to break them.
But yeah, they're just a tripleled lamp.

Speaker 1 (13:18):
Amazon auto parts store, home d, they're all over
the place, you know so so putthe old light bulbs in while
you're working is that whatyou're saying?
And then put the new ones inafter you're done.
Is that right?

Speaker 2 (13:27):
yeah, I would recommend that.
Yeah, and I I didn't havelights when I started this
project, so, uh, I did run uh,some 12-2 and put in eight
lights and then a dedicated 20amp to the DU.
That's great.

Speaker 1 (13:44):
All right, so let's cover the door.
This looks like a fantasticdoor.
Just curious is this a door youbuilt or is this a
prefabricated door that youinstalled?

Speaker 2 (13:53):
So it's a prefab.
It's from Kaffner Crawl SpaceDoors.
It's a second door.
We had a little mix up on thedimensions because that's a full
inset door.
Doors are new to me.
I don't do doors for a livingfoam that slides fully in the

(14:14):
opening.
You shim it and then secure it.
They include tap cons.
I secured it with healthyconcrete anchors and then, you
know, spray foamed around theinside.

Speaker 1 (14:31):
That's great, and say that manufacturer again.
We've been trying to hook upwith a door manufacturer for a
while.
We just haven't had a goodopportunity.
So let me share again, Chad, ifyou don't mind the name of the
door.

Speaker 2 (14:38):
Yeah, no problem.
The manufacturer is CathmerC-A-T-H-M-E-R Crawl Space Doors
and that actually has a channelon the left-hand side, so the
door slides in and then it'smagnetized.
I did add latches after justfor a little bit tighter fit,

(14:59):
but it was pretty good the way Ihad it.

Speaker 1 (15:02):
Very good.
And did you have to addinsulation?
I would assume too.
Or did you insulate it at allor have to air seal it at all?
How does it come?

Speaker 2 (15:10):
So the door itself it has, it's gasketed, so it's air
sealed.
And then, and then you know,obviously spray foaming around,
uh, you know where you shim itand secure it.
I ended up changing thegasketing material that came
with it to something a littlebit thicker.
Um, theirs was like 90 percentthere.
Uh, there was just a few gapsthat the magnet wasn't strong

(15:31):
enough to pull it to close.
So I added a thicker gasket andthen just latches and you can't
see any light.
It's completely airtight.

Speaker 1 (15:40):
Very good.
Any tips on the measuring?
You said you had a little issuewith the measuring.
Is it measure twice, cut once?
Scenario.

Speaker 2 (15:48):
Is that what?
happened, Right yeah normallyI'm pretty good at measuring,
but it was more so just amiscommunication on the
difference between a full insetdoor or a partial.
So a partial would be likehanging out and it would have
trim that would go against thehouse and in my application how
that is receded in it justwouldn't work.

(16:11):
So probably a little bit onboth, but they stepped up and
made it right.
I actually have the originaldoor sitting right here.
They sent me a brand new one,you know with the adjusted
measurements.
You know they took care of thefreight everything.
So that was pretty stand up ofthem.

Speaker 1 (16:31):
Yeah, that's wonderful.
Well, kudos to them.
All right, we've got two moreslides to show for everybody.
This is your.
You said this is the E80.
Is that right?
Yeah, all right.
So tell us a little bit aboutthat.
So you got it ducted.
Why did you decide to duct itlike?

Speaker 2 (16:47):
that To push a little bit more it's actually fairly
deep after that dehumidifierjust to push it more around, not
to make like a complete circle,and then also to quiet it down.
I don't have any insulation onmy floors right now so you could
hear the unit through the HVAC,not so much through the floor

(17:11):
but the HVAC vents.
You would hear it.
The vents quiet it down like 80.

Speaker 1 (17:17):
It's substantially quieter oh wow, great, great are
you?
Do you have plans on puttingsubfloor insulation, or are you
going to leave it the way it is?

Speaker 2 (17:26):
I haven't decided.
I don't know how much longerwe'll stay here at least a few
years, um, but I've looked at it.

Speaker 1 (17:32):
You know, I haven't decided yet I'd say it depends
on how cold this winter iscoming to right, you get cold in
michigan.
We'll see all right sub pump,some pump, pretty standard
install.
Looks like you got yourcondensate line going in there
and it looks like you've got alittle uh, moisture meter right
there.
Is that what that is?
Uh, just almost out of frame,is that right?

Speaker 2 (17:52):
uh, a water alarm.
Yeah, so that's just's justthree of them down there.
They're Wi-Fi, so that way ifI'm not home it just lets me
know.
Hey, there's water I do need toput in if I'm saying it, right,
the drain.
Help me out here, michael, thedrain.

Speaker 1 (18:09):
Yeah, the drain it would go in one of these pre-cut
holes.
Basically, if Chad's crawlspace ever gets standing water
from a pipe leak, it helps toget that water into the sump
pump is what it's designed to do, so it's not a sealed system on
the top.
Yeah, those are very popularand good for basements too.

(18:30):
You don't want to create asealed sump pump basin to where
water can't get into it, but theDranger Drain allows water in
without allowing soil gases toescape, so it's a pretty nice
little deal there.
I'll put a link to that downbelow in case anyone wants to
check it out.
Anything else on this one Lookslike you got a flex line going
out the foundation.
Is that going underground tothe outside?

Speaker 2 (18:51):
Yeah, it's pretty deep below gray.
That's the original line.
I would say it's probablyoriginal to the house.
The house was built in 91.
That's probably going to be dueto be replaced.
It could be replaced now butit's working.
There's no leaks.
It does go out to the ditch.
From what I've seen theinstallations here versus

(19:15):
watching on your channel most ofthem go below the frost line.
Here that might be different.
Again, I'm not a professionalat this, but from the pictures
and videos I've seen ofcompanies up here, most of them
go below the frost line out to aditch.

Speaker 1 (19:32):
Yeah, I'd say that's a good idea in your climate here
, not needed as much.
I mean, it's very rare for usto get below freezing for very
long, especially as much wateras they're pushing.
It's like a stream.
It's not going to freeze thatgoing into a sump pump like you
did, or again below the frostline outside.
Normally the d he won't kick onthat much in a real cold

(20:00):
climate because you probably arefighting too low a humidity.
I would say yes in the wintertime.
Um, but just in case it doeslike, for example, if again a
plumbing leak happens, uh the d,you could try to dry the air,
and if you've got it above thefrost line, it could kick on and
then freeze up that condensateline.
So just some of those things tothink about.

(20:22):
All right, we got another one.
This is your insulation of yourrim joist and your sill, uh
sill plate.
You did a great job here aswell.
Uh, tell us a little bit.
Uh, right here on the sillplate, in case you can't see
where I'm pointing you put whatis that?
Spray foam?

Speaker 2 (20:36):
Yep, that's just with a Pro-Can.
There were gaps where it wasstarting to come up and really
just following around.
Really big gaps, you know, Iguess from the house settling,
you know, I'm not really sure,but I did want to fill them in
at least to keep, you know,critters out.

Speaker 1 (20:57):
Yeah, and check with your pest control company if you
all decide to do this.
Some pest control companies donot like that seal, but what
that does for Chad is it helpsminimize the amount of moisture
coming between the block walland the seal plate, minimize the
amount of moisture comingbetween the block wall and the
sill plate so that hisdehumidifier runs less and it
obviously stops air movement andthings like that.

(21:18):
So I encourage you to do it.
You can also use caulk ifthat's easier.
Not everybody's as handy withthe spray foam gun as you do,
because right there on that rim,joist man, you did that and it
looks beautiful.

Speaker 2 (21:30):
So I don't know what you do for a living.

Speaker 1 (21:32):
Uh, you can probably easily become a spray foam
contractor if you want I'll keepthat as a backup.
I appreciate it and I also seeyou uh, air sealed the duck.
Uh, the boot around the duck.
Good job there too.
Is that already done, or didyou do that as well?

Speaker 2 (21:47):
no, yeah, I did that.
Um, I did that previous to that.
And then the rim Joyce isthat's just the Dow froth pack.
Um, and I had read a lot ofnegative reviews on them and I
was like the quotes I would Ireceived were just too high to
swallow.
Um, so I just picked one up andthat was the end result.

Speaker 1 (22:07):
Well, I don't know what the reviews are, but it
looks like it worked well foryou.
Any negatives that you foundusing that Dow froth pack I hear
anything from a lot of VOCs tothe mixture doesn't do well.
Any issues that you experiencedusing it.

Speaker 2 (22:27):
The temperature of the tanks is extremely important
.
You have to let them stabilize.
That's what I read when I wasresearching.
The downside is it's extremelymessy.
So if you were going to do it,I would do it before you
encapsulate, because it does, itdrips, it gets everywhere.
Fortunately for me, it was onthe old clear, loose-laid

(22:47):
plastic, so it just came rightout and that worked out well for
me.

Speaker 1 (22:51):
And every manufacturer has their own
temperatures, but I believe it'slike above 65, below 90 is
optimal.
Does that seem about right fromwhat you read, or am I saying
that incorrectly?

Speaker 2 (23:02):
I recall it was something like that in the
application range and the actualtanks have like a stick-on
thermometer.
Probably not super accurate,but I just let them sit in the
garage.
It's usually about 68 in here,70.
I let them sit in here for afew days to stabilize and I
didn't have any issues, you know.

Speaker 1 (23:23):
And to be clear, you did that in the summer, is that
right?

Speaker 2 (23:25):
Yes, yeah, okay, that was done in June.

Speaker 1 (23:28):
So in the winter you're going to have a lot more
problems if you use froth packsin the wintertime.
Yeah, Absolutely, Chad.
Listen, this is greatinformation, great pictures.
As I mentioned before, I'mbragging on you again.
You did a fantastic job.
Really appreciate you joiningme on this video and sharing

(23:48):
your experience with those outthere that want to do their own
crawl space.
Any last tips or words ofencouragement for our viewers
before I let you go.

Speaker 2 (24:00):
I appreciate it, michael, thank you.
Just watch the videos.
I mean, mine did not turn outperfect.
I think to achieve what you seeon the Crawl Space Ninja page
would be very difficult on yourfirst time.
You're not going to get thoseperfect seams, perfect tape
lines, but I think that's okay,you know.
But if you watch the videos,ask a few questions.

(24:24):
I did have a consultation withMichael, which was invaluable to
me because I was able to gethis advice on my specific crawl
space, um, and he gave me sometips that saved me a lot of time
, um, so I would highlyrecommend that as well.

Speaker 1 (24:40):
Well, thank you.

Speaker 2 (24:41):
Thank you for saying that, and all the products were
purchased um through Crawl SpaceNinja.
Uh, the Sump's been good, theJackal Basin, the Aprilaire
EO80's been good.
As I said earlier, it's reallynot that noisy of a unit.
It's just where I have it.
Sitting, is right below an HVACrun and sound resonates through

(25:04):
that.
It's very energy efficient too.
It only runs about 450 wattswhen it's on, so it's not bad.

Speaker 1 (25:11):
Oh, wow, that's great , well, good news and again,
thanks again for joining us andhope you all make it a happy and
blessed day and we'll see youlater.
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