Building a Craftsman Style Staircase and Handrail

In this episode, I help a Colorado Springs Client remodel their staircase. The existing staircase was a straight run with an outdated style. I redesigned it to have open-ended steps with a craftsman handrail.

Summary

 Building a Custom Staircase with a Handrail

When a client wanted to modernize their outdated staircase to match their new hickory flooring, I took on the challenge of transforming it into an open-ended tread design with a custom handrail. Here’s how I tackled the project—from demolition to final installation.

Assessing the Existing Staircase

The original staircase had a dated design that didn’t complement the new flooring. The clients wanted an open-ended tread style, which required significant modifications. Before installation, I had to:

• Remove the old treads (which were dadoed into the skirt board).
• Cut new stringers.
• Reframe sections of the wall to support the new structure.

Since the drywall corners were fragile after demolition, I reinforced them by sliding in new framing between the stringers and drywall and securing it to the existing studs.

Fabricating Custom Components

To ensure a seamless fit, I pre-fabricated most of the staircase components in my workshop.

1. Crafting the Treads

While custom-sized treads could be ordered, local millwork shops couldn’t accommodate the exact specifications needed to wrap around the existing walls. So, I milled my own:

• Glued up stock to the required thickness.
• Used a router with a large nosing bit to shape the front edge.
• Clipped the corners at the table saw to reduce router load and prevent tear-out (hickory is prone to splintering).
• Used feather boards at the router table for a clean, consistent profile.

For the open-ended treads, I cut miters on the table saw. The bottom tread required a notch for the newel post, so I:

• Attach the center nosing with dominoes and glue.
• Pre-cut the miter on a longer piece before trimming it to length for safety.
• Tacked the return in place with brad nails.

2. Constructing the Newel Post

To match the home’s existing door panel design, I built a newel post with the illusion of floating panels:

• Ripped and laminated quarter-sawn stock.
• Added mitered corner trim (held together with glue tape since clamps wouldn’t work on such thin pieces).
• Pre-finished the post before installing the trim to prevent raw wood exposure from seasonal movement.
• Used a headless pin nailer for a clean, nearly invisible installation.

The post featured three horizontal rails (bottom, middle, and top) to match the home’s interior doors. For consistency, I used a spacer block to align the middle rails perfectly.

3. Creating the Post Cap

The decorative cap required precise miter cuts to meet cleanly in the center. I:

• Used a shop-made vertical sled to hold the workpiece.
• Cut cross-grain first to minimize tear-out, then with the grain for a smooth finish.
• Reset the saw blade to 90° to cut decorative shoulders.
• Installed with glue and brad nails, trimming the underside with cove molding.

Prepping the Spindles

With 20 spindles and cross braces to assemble, efficiency was key:

• Jointed, planed, and squared each spindle.
• Cut angled cross braces using a shim clamped near the table saw blade to prevent kickback.
• A stop block and miter gauge were used for repeatable cuts.

Joinery with the Domino

While some woodworkers debate using a Domino joiner, it was a