Leash reactivity in dogs is a common yet stressful challenge for many pet owners. Imagine transforming your daily walks from chaotic to calm. Join me, Will Bangura, on Dog Training Today as we uncover the nuances of leash reactivity and how it differs from genuine aggression. You'll gain insights into the root causes like fear, anxiety, and past negative experiences, and understand the significant role you play as a handler. By learning why punishment-based methods backfire, you can avoid common pitfalls and start fostering a more peaceful bond with your furry friend.
Ready to tackle leash reactivity head-on? Discover proactive training strategies that use positive reinforcement to change your dog’s emotional responses to triggers. Through structured training sessions, you’ll learn to create controlled environments that keep your dog calm and neutral. We’ll also guide you on conditioning a reward marker and mastering the art of timing to reinforce positive behaviors. Gradual exposure and focus exercises will become your new best friends in this journey. Tune in to transform those stressful walks into enjoyable outings, and turn your reactive dog into a relaxed walking companion.
If you need professional help please visit my Dog Behaviorist website.
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Episode Transcript
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Speaker 1 (00:00):
Are you struggling with a dog that's leash reactive
?
Does the thought of having totake your dog for a walk
absolutely frustrate you?
We're going to spend todaytalking about why your dog is
still leash reactive.
Don't go anywhere.
(00:21):
We're going to unravel thecauses and solutions in 60
seconds answering your petbehavior and training questions.
(00:50):
Ladies and gentlemen, pleasewelcome your host and favorite
pet behavior expert, willBangura.
Good day dog lovers.
I'm Will Bangura.
Thanks for joining me foranother episode of Dog Training
(01:13):
Today, where we talk abouteverything dog training and
behavior.
And today's episode, as Istarted to talk about in the
opener, is going to be aboutleash reactivity.
As I started to talk about inthe opener, is going to be about
leash reactivity.
If there's one thing thatprobably is one of the biggest
problems and one of the biggestfrustrations that pet parents
(01:33):
deal with, that's leashreactivity.
But first let's define leashreactivity.
Leash reactivity refers to adog's over-the-top reaction when
they see a specific trigger.
While on leash, this couldinclude a dog that's lunging,
(01:58):
barking, growling and otheraggressive behaviors.
Now it's important todifferentiate leash reactivity
from true aggression.
While both can look similar,leash reactivity is often rooted
in frustration or fear ratherthan a desire to do harm.
(02:22):
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(02:42):
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(03:03):
when our podcasts the newpodcasts are launched Today.
I want to just take a fewminutes to talk about leash
reactivity and what some of thecommon causes of leash
reactivity are.
And one of the biggest reasonsthat there's leash reactivity is
a result of dogs having fearand anxiety.
(03:26):
Fear can trigger reactivebehaviors.
If a dog feels threatened or ifthey feel scared, they may
react aggressively to protectthemselves.
Folks, 99% of all quote-unquoteaggression that is out there is
really rooted in fear.
(03:47):
It's extremely rare for anyanimal to go into fight or
flight unless they perceivesomething as threatening.
And to perceive something asthreatening means that that
animal your dog is experiencingfear and anxiety.
One of the second most commoncauses of leash reactivity is
(04:11):
frustration.
Leash frustration and barrierfrustration occur when a dog
wants to approach something butcan't due to the leash, leading
to reactive behaviors.
A third common cause of leashreactivity is a lack of
socialization Dogs that haven'tbeen properly socialized.
(04:35):
They may not know how tointeract appropriately with
other dogs or other people, andthat might be resulting in their
reactivity.
Another common cause for leashreactivity is previous negative
experiences.
Trauma or bad encounters withother dogs or people can cause a
(05:01):
dog to become reactive as adefensive mechanism.
Now there's also not just thedog that's on one end of the
leash, but the human on theother end of the leash, and we
need to talk about the humanfactors that contribute to leash
reactivity, because you, as thehandler, you as the pet parent,
(05:25):
play a significant role in yourdog's leash reactivity as well.
One of the most common problemsis inconsistent handling,
giving mixed signals.
Pet parents that give mixedsignals to their dogs can
confuse their dogs.
(05:46):
It can make it harder for themto understand what behavior is
expected, and that's a lack ofconsistency.
What is it that?
When you're out and you've gotyour dog on leash and you know
that you have a problem withleash reactivity, what's your
(06:08):
plan?
What's your goal?
What's your training objective?
What's your plan?
How are you going to get there?
And are you consistent withwhat you're doing each and every
time that you are taking yourdog out?
Because if your dog'sexperience is one where, when it
(06:29):
gets on the leash and you gofor a walk, it's constantly
being reactive and your dog isrehearsing those behaviors.
That's what you're going to getand you'll get that even before
(06:50):
it starts, before you even walkout the door, because your dog
starts to get habituated, yourdog starts to get conditioned to
expect.
When the leash goes on, we'regoing to go out and I'm going to
be reactive Because you putyour dog in that situation and
(07:13):
we're going to talk a little bitmore about that.
Another reason and this againrelates to you the pet parent
tension on the leash.
Keeping the leash tight canreally escalate a dog's
reactivity by increasing theirstress and their sense of
restraint.
Remember I talked about thatfrustration, getting to the end
(07:36):
of that leash, wanting to get tosomething and not being able to
get there.
You know there's a lot of dogsthat are not aggressive.
They're just very excitable onleash and their reactivity isn't
necessarily aggression.
They may want to really get toanother dog, get to another
(07:56):
person and if they get therethey may be just fine.
They may be just fine, but it'sall the craziness from when you
put the leash on and you walkout that front door and the
expectation, because yourexperiences with your dog have
been these crazy leash reactiveexperiences towards other people
(08:20):
, towards other dogs, and yourdog's adrenaline kicks in
instantly as soon as the leashcomes out, before you've ever
walked out the door.
All right.
Another reason is usingpunishment-based methods, which
can really worsen reactivity asit can increase fear and anxiety
(08:44):
rather than addressing the rootcause.
So for those of you where theleash reactivity is rooted more
in anxiety, more in fear, andyou're dealing with this by
punishing, by correcting thisbehavior, it may seem like
initially that you're doing theright thing because perhaps
(09:07):
you're able to stop the behavior, perhaps you're able to
temporarily suppress the outwardbarking, the lunging, the
whining, the unruliness on theleash.
But if we've got a dog, but ifwe've got a dog where that
reactivity is more rooted inanxiety, in stress, in fear, and
(09:30):
we're using punishment even ifit's a mild level of fear, pain
or intimidation that we use withpunishment, that merely
suppresses outward behavior, itadds to the internal pressure.
It's kind of like your dog's apressure cooker now, because
rather than relieving thepressure of the anxiety and the
(09:55):
fear and dealing with thatunderlying root cause that is
contributing to your dog'sreactivity, if we just punish
the outward behavior, it's likeputting a lid on the top of a
pot of boiling water, thatanxiety, that stress, that fear.
(10:19):
You've done nothing with that.
And while there's a lot oftrainers and a lot of training
programs and a lot of trainingtools that are designed to
suppress behavior, they donothing to deal with the
underlying root cause.
And if you've got a behaviorthat is rooted in anxiety,
rooted in fear, that behavior isgoing to come back.
(10:40):
It's not a matter of if, it's amatter of when.
And you know, I watch folksthat never deal with the
underlying fear.
They never deal with theunderlying anxiety and they find
themselves having to be heavyhanded with their dogs, where
(11:02):
they're having to hang theirdogs on the leash, they're
having to use prong collars,give harsh corrections using
electronic collars, giving harshcorrections there, and even
with those tools, they may stillbe struggling.
Their dogs are at the end ofthe leash, choking, gagging,
having difficulty breathing,being incredibly reactive, and
(11:23):
the entire idea of going foranother walk with the dog for
this pet parent is a completeand total nightmare, something
that you definitely are notlooking forward to doing again.
So what can we do?
What can we do?
What are some effectivestrategies to manage and reduce
(11:45):
the leash reactivity?
So one of the first things thatwe need to understand is that
we've got to get out of themindset of what you don't want
your dog to do.
Get out of the mindset ofpunishment, because, again,
punishment's just going tosuppress the outward behavior
(12:07):
temporarily and that in the longrun because, like I said, it's
like putting a lid on the top ofa pot of boiling water really
makes that reactivity, thatleash reactivity, worse in the
long run.
And that's why a lot of peopleare still dealing with this,
because all they've been doingis going from one technique of
(12:33):
suppression to another techniqueof suppression.
Maybe they used a prong collarfor a while and then maybe that
stopped working so they startedusing an electronic collar.
Maybe they were using acompressed air sprayer and that
worked for a while and thatstopped working.
Punishment doesn't deal withthe underlying root cause and
(12:55):
you're only going to have atemporary quick fix and it's not
a real fix at all.
Using positive reinforcementtechniques, rewarding calm
behavior and usingdesensitization methods that is
what's going to help a dogassociate the presence of
(13:16):
triggers with positive outcomes.
So your dog, when it's on awalk, whether the trigger be
people, whether the trigger beother dogs or other animals on
the walk, your dog associatesthe presence of that trigger as
a bad thing, as a scary thing,as something to feel like there
(13:37):
might be a threat or to bestressed about.
Desensitization methods andusing counter conditioning.
And counter conditioninginvolves changing your dog's
emotional response to thetrigger by pairing the trigger
with something that they enjoy,like very high value food,
(13:58):
rewards or their favorite toy.
Now, these things aren't magic.
You have to work at it at it.
And part of dealing with theunderlying root cause of a dog
that has leash reactivitybecause of anxiety, because of
(14:18):
stress, because of fear is,first and foremost, making sure
that when you put the leash onthe dog, your dog doesn't
encounter one of these triggersthat cause the leash reactivity
and your dog continues torehearse that behavior.
What I talked about earlier Ifthe experience you and your dog
(14:42):
have is the same every day,that's the experience you and
your dog are going to have andyou can expect to have that the
next day.
Nobody wants to hear what I'mgoing to say next.
The first step to the fix isavoiding the triggers.
No, it's not the fix, but it'sthe first step to the fix.
(15:07):
It's like if I've got a brokenwater pipe.
I can't begin to fix the brokenwater pipe if I have the water
on still.
I've got to turn the water off.
Then I can begin to work onthat broken water pipe.
But I'm going to have a mess ifI don't first avoid the water,
turn the water off.
If your dog continues torehearse the reactive behaviors
on leash with triggers, likeother dogs and other people when
(15:29):
you go on walks, it's nevergoing to get better.
The first thing you need to dois stop the water from spilling
out all over the place, turn offthe water.
So you need to avoid thetriggers.
Now, that is until you've donethe work.
And when I say avoid thetriggers, all I mean is you are
(15:52):
going to proactively designtraining scenarios.
You are going to proactivelydesign training scenarios with
triggers, but you're going to doit in such a way that you can
actually have some success.
See, one of the biggestproblems you're having is you
(16:13):
let your dog go from zero to 100.
Your dog hits that red zone andbecomes reactive, and now it's
too late.
There's nothing you can do.
There's nothing you can do Now.
It's just a matter of fightingwith the dog and trying to get
the dog out of there.
But once they've hit that redzone, there's nothing that
(16:34):
you're going to do.
And you see, this is wheretrainers that use corrections,
use punishment, will saypositive reinforcement doesn't
work.
Because they'll say hey, haveyou ever had your dog out on a
walk and your dog saw a trigger,another dog or another person,
and your dog just went ballistic.
And how effective was it, mrand Mrs Pet Parent, when you
(16:58):
took out that piece of foodreward?
Your dog didn't care, did it?
No, not when they hit the redzone.
By that point it's way too late.
Your dog is way too stressedout.
It's not going to care aboutfood, it's not going to care
about a toy, it's not going tocare about playing, it's in
(17:19):
fight or flight.
And again, this is especially ifyour dog, if the leash
reactivity, is rooted in anxietyand fear.
But we're so concerned withpunishing and correcting the
unwanted behavior, which reallydoes little to nothing to
resolve the issue.
It's a temporary band-aid.
(17:41):
If that, if you can get thatthe real way to deal with leash
reactivity, if you really wantto put leash reactivity to bed,
then you need to start lookingat positive reinforcement
techniques.
You need to begin to thinkabout rewarding calm behavior,
(18:03):
using desensitization andcounter conditioning to change
the association that your doghas with these triggers.
See, every time your dog goesout of the house your dog has
this eruption and that's yourdog's association with these
triggers.
But if you take a strange dog,if you take a strange person,
(18:25):
whatever your dog's triggers areand you control that situation,
are and you control thatsituation.
Let's just say, for example,your dog, if it gets within 50
feet of another dog or if itgets within 50 feet of a strange
person, your dog goes crazy,barking, lunging, snapping,
(18:47):
snarling.
You would never do training atthat distance.
You're not going to havesuccess trying to manage, train
control, modify your dog'sbehavior when your dog's in that
insane state.
So what does that mean?
(19:08):
That means that you have tofind the distance where your dog
can be from a trigger.
How far away does your dog needto be from a strange person or
a strange dog?
Where your dog can see them butdoesn't care, but doesn't care
(19:29):
when your dog can see thestrange dog.
Your dog can see the strangeperson but your dog is not
reactive, your dog's not pullingon the leash, your dog is not
barking, your dog is not lunging, your dog is relaxed.
You look at its body languageand you don't see stress.
Your dog doesn't show thatstressful body language.
(19:51):
You know that you see beforeyour dog becomes reactive.
Your dog's loose, relaxed, willtake food rewards, can stay
focused on you, isn't staring atthe trigger.
But you've got to set uptraining situations and you need
(20:11):
to do.
How often should you do this?
You need to set up trainingsituations a minimum of three to
five times a week and you needto spend five to ten minutes
every session.
And the way that you're goingto set things up is proactively.
You're going to know that whenyou get your dog out, there
(20:33):
aren't going to be triggers inclose proximity and, proactively
, you'll have set up a trainingscenario where you've got a
helper that is either thetrigger, if your dog's triggered
by people, or that helper has adog with them, because your dog
is triggered by strange dogs.
(20:54):
However, unlike just walkingout the door and not knowing
what you're going to bump intoin terms of dogs and people in
your training situations, youknow exactly what you're going
to run into because you'vegotten outside before your dog
has.
You've made sure that there areno triggers in close proximity
(21:16):
that would cause your dog to gocrazy and you set it up so that
you can get your dog out, at adistance from the trigger a
strange dog or a person but thatdistance is one where your dog
doesn't have a care in the world.
Now, now that your dog's nottriggering your dog's in this
(21:37):
neutral state, its underlyingemotional state is neutral.
Does your dog love thosetriggers?
No, but your dog's notconcerned about them either
because they're far enough away.
Well, we need to change theunderlying emotional state from
scary to good.
We start by getting your dog ata distance where your dog's
(22:00):
emotional state is neutral.
And now we need to useclassical conditioning, counter
conditioning, where we havethese very well-timed
presentations of the trigger ata distance where your dog
doesn't care.
But the exact moment thatstrange dog or that strange
(22:21):
person, that trigger, comes intoview, good things are happening
.
What do I mean by good thingsare happening?
As soon as that strange dog orstrange person comes into view,
you start feeding your dog highvalue food rewards For about one
to three seconds, constantly,feed, feed, feed, feed,
constantly and continuously forabout one to three seconds.
(22:42):
Then have your helper leave.
Have your helper whether you'redealing with just reactivity
towards people or reactivitytowards a person with a dog on a
leash.
Have your helper leave and asyour helper leaves and goes out
of view, you stop feeding yourdog.
(23:05):
And then the next day you'regoing to set this up again.
You're going to get outside.
You're going to know whereyou're doing this.
You're going to know thatthere's nothing around that's
going to set this up again.
You're going to get outside,you're going to know where
you're doing this.
You're going to know thatthere's nothing around that's
going to trigger your dog andyou're going to get your helper
positioned far enough away thatwhen your dog comes out and
first sees that trigger, it'sfar enough away.
(23:26):
Your dog doesn't care and assoon as your dog sees the
trigger, bam, start feeding.
You see, it's like an on-offswitch.
When your dog sees the trigger,the on switch comes on and you
start feeding or you startplaying with your dog's favorite
toy, but whatever it is, you'reusing as a positive reinforcer.
(23:49):
Whether it be food, whether itbe a toy, it's got to be
something that your dogabsolutely loves.
Listen, if we've got thingsthat your dog loves whether it
be toys, play, whether it befood on a scale from 1 to 10, 10
being what your dog loves themost, 1 being what your dog
loves the least you've got to beworking with level 10 positive
(24:12):
reinforcers.
So if it's about chicken, ifit's about cheese and you're the
kind of person I don't want togive my dog human food, guess
what?
If that means it's going tohelp you get your dog over its
reactivity, why are you fightingit?
(24:33):
Positive reinforcement, whatyou're using as a reinforcer, is
what's motivating your dog.
Think about it as currency.
If I'm asking you to do a job,hey, I want you to dig ditches
and I'm giving you a dollar aday, how motivated are you to
dig those ditches?
But if I'm giving you athousand dollars a day to dig
ditches, it makes a bigdifference.
So the level, the quality, thevalue of the positive reinforcer
(24:59):
that you're using with your dogmakes a big difference.
But what you need to do whenyou're setting up these counter
conditioning and desensitizationsessions, you're controlling
the environment.
You're keeping the trigger at adistance from your dog where
your dog is not going to trigger, where your dog's not going to
(25:19):
react and your dog's not showingany level of stress.
This is where most of you getthis wrong.
You put your dog in a situationwhere there's triggers, you set
them up for failure becauseevery day you take the dog out,
the dog triggers and you keepdoing the same thing over and
over again, expecting adifferent result, fighting with
(25:41):
your dog being frustrated.
Well, you've set your dog upfor failure.
You know what's going to happen.
You need to start proactivelysetting your dog up for success
by creating these trainingscenarios getting your dog at a
distance where it's not going tobe triggered, pairing, positive
(26:01):
reinforcement.
As soon as your dog sees thetrigger, boom, that's when
feeding starts.
Then only do that for a fewseconds and then ask your helper
to leave, go out of view.
And when the helper leaves,when that trigger goes out of
your dog's view, you stopfeeding.
See the way dogs think, the waythey learn, the way they
(26:22):
process information.
Everything is a very black andwhite cause and effect
association and that's whatyou're doing with counter
conditioning and desensitization.
You are making this very clearblack and white cause and effect
association that, hey, when thetriggers come out, it's like
the on switch goes on, goodthings happen, and when the
(26:43):
trigger goes away, boom, the offswitch goes on and all the good
things stop the feeding stops.
And you are going to do thatover and over, consistently,
repetitively, over days, overweeks, until your dog is
thrilled about this exercise.
(27:04):
And after you've conditionedyour dog to absolutely love this
training game, then, and onlythen, can you begin to move your
dog a little bit and I'mtalking a little bit a little
bit closer to the trigger, thenext training session.
(27:25):
So let's say that you started50 feet away and maybe you spent
three weeks where each week youdid five training sessions.
So you've done 15 trainingsessions over a period of three
weeks, five a week.
Your training sessions are fiveor 10 minutes long.
You've been avoiding triggersso your dog doesn't rehearse
(27:46):
those behaviors, getting themmore and more ingrained.
You're controlling theenvironment, proactively,
staging setups for your dog tohave success.
And after you've conditionedyour dog at the safe distance
and your dog is loving this game, you went from scary trigger to
(28:11):
neutral because you kept yourdog at a distance where it was
neutral, but now, by pairingpositive reinforcers with the
presentation of that trigger,now your dog doesn't have a
neutral emotional response, yourdog has a positive emotional
response.
However, the work's not done.
(28:32):
It's rare for things to be justfixed with one or two sessions.
You have to be consistent.
You have to create consistencyand repetition.
Little by little, gradually,systematically, you're able to
get your dog closer and closerand closer.
(28:54):
A couple feet here, here, thenmaybe a few weeks you get a
couple feet closer.
Maybe you practice for anotherfew weeks and you get a little
bit closer.
But it takes work.
It takes practice.
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(29:14):
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(29:35):
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(29:55):
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All right, so back to talkingabout leash reactivity and what
you can do.
(30:16):
One of the important things Ifeel when you're dealing with a
dog that has reactivity issuesis that you have taken time to
condition a reward marker,whether that reward marker be a
verbal cue, a word like yes,that you've conditioned the dog
conditioned a dog yes meanstreat or whether you have
(30:36):
conditioned your dog to say aclicker, where you've done
clicker conditioning and yourdog understands, so you've got a
reward marker, a conditionedreward marker.
If you don't know what aconditioned reward marker is, go
to my website atdogbehavioristcom.
Go to where my articles are.
I've got about 90 articles onmy website, dogbehavioristcom.
(30:59):
Find the article on clickertraining.
It will talk about how youcondition a reward marker, why
that's important.
If you've got a signal that youcan instantly communicate to
your dog when your dog does abehavior that you like and you
want, your timing is critical.
(31:20):
You've got about zero to asecond to communicate to your
dog when your dog does what youwant.
Hey, this is what I want andthis is what's going to get a
reward.
If your timing is late and thisis what's going to get a reward
If your timing is late.
You know a lot of people areusing food in training and the
(31:41):
overall experience for the dogis better.
It's kind of like, you know, ifyou get invited to a couple
different parties and there'sonly one or two of those parties
where they are serving foodversus parties that don't serve
food, well, you might enjoy theparties that have food better
(32:04):
than the ones that don't.
But when it comes to using foodand training, your timing is
everything.
And let's say, you ask the dogto do something like look at you
right, because one of thethings that's important to do if
you've got a dog that isreactive is work on redirecting
focus, teaching, focus exercisesefficiently and have your dog
(32:26):
understand hey, this is thebehavior I want and you're going
to get rewarded for that.
See, if you ask for a behaviorlike you ask your dog, hey, look
(32:47):
at me, and you reward your dogthree seconds after your dog
looks at you.
Well, your dog might like thefood, but whether your dog
connects the dots, whether yourdog associates hey, the reason I
got the food is because I waslooking at mom or dad, I was
looking at my pet parent.
That's debatable because ifyour timing is off, chances are
(33:11):
that communication is kind ofgray, it's kind of murky, and
the best we can do for our petsis when our communication is
extremely black and white.
And if you've got a signal likeyes or nice, or a click of a
clicker, and you've taken timeto associate that with something
(33:34):
positive, to associate thatwith something positive a food
reward, a toy play Now, whenyour dog does something right,
when your dog is relaxed, whenyour dog is calm hey, let's say
you're walking down the streetand the last four days your dog
was excitable when you walkedout the door.
And all of a sudden, today youwalk out the door and where,
(33:55):
maybe on a scale of one to 10,10 being the most excitable your
dog could be, for the last weekyour dog's been at a 10, but
you walk out the door and todayyour dog's at a seven.
What if you could mark that?
What if you could communicateto your dog instantly at that
moment?
Hey, this is what's going toget you the good stuff.
This is what's going to get youthe good stuff.
(34:15):
This is what's going to get youthe food reward.
Well, if you don't have aconditioned marker, if you don't
have that condition, whether itbe a clicker or an auditory
verbal marker chances are you'reunable to communicate to your
dog and you're unable topositively reinforce the
(34:37):
behaviors that you want.
So, lack of consistency, poortiming, not having a conditioned
marker, not avoiding triggers,not being proactive and setting
up training situations so thatyou can do counter conditioning
and desensitization Really,really important those are all
(35:02):
so important.
Okay, this type of controlledexposure, gradually exposing
your dog to triggers in a verycontrolled manner, starting at a
distance where your dog feelscomfortable, where your dog
feels safe, doing this slowlyand gradually, decreasing the
(35:23):
distance over time, making surethat you're keeping a safe
distance from triggers duringwalks that's going to prevent
reactive outbursts.
Help your dog stay calm whileyou're doing the work.
Listen, if your dog's highlyreactive, this may take you to
(35:44):
get to a I mean a really goodplace with your dog.
It may take a couple months,but those of you that have been
looking for quick fixes, youhave found out that your quick
fixes only might last at themost, a month or two and then it
comes back and now you'restruggling with your dog and
(36:06):
that's why you're still dealingwith reactivity because you're
using punishment or you're notbeing consistent, while you need
to do the work of counterconditioning and desensitization
to modify your dog's underlyingemotional state from your dog
being nervous and anxious aboutthese triggers to viewing them
(36:27):
as something positive thatbrings about good things.
Until you've done the work,you're going to struggle, but
remember patience, consistencythose are key when working with
a leash reactive dog.
By understanding the causes andapplying the effective
(36:48):
strategies, you can help yourdog overcome their reactivity
and you can make your walks awhole lot more enjoyable and you
don't have to struggle whenyou're walking the dog.
We just want to get out and walkour dogs.
We don't want to have to dealwith all that insanity, all that
(37:11):
craziness.
Do me a favor hit that likebutton, hit that share button If
you're listening to this onYouTube.
Youtube, hit the bell so youalways get notified when we have
a new podcast.
Please give us a five-starreview.
Share this with your friendsand families.
I'm will bangura.
You've been listening toanother episode of dog training
(37:31):
today.
I'm out of here.
Are you struggling with a dog that's leash reactive
?
Does the thought of having totake your dog for a walk
absolutely frustrate you?
We're going to spend todaytalking about why your dog is
still leash reactive.
Don't go anywhere.
(00:21):
We're going to unravel thecauses and solutions in 60
seconds answering your petbehavior and training questions.
(00:50):
Ladies and gentlemen, pleasewelcome your host and favorite
pet behavior expert, willBangura.
Good day dog lovers.
I'm Will Bangura.
Thanks for joining me foranother episode of Dog Training
(01:13):
Today, where we talk abouteverything dog training and
behavior.
And today's episode, as Istarted to talk about in the
opener, is going to be aboutleash reactivity.
As I started to talk about inthe opener, is going to be about
leash reactivity.
If there's one thing thatprobably is one of the biggest
problems and one of the biggestfrustrations that pet parents
(01:33):
deal with, that's leashreactivity.
But first let's define leashreactivity.
Leash reactivity refers to adog's over-the-top reaction when
they see a specific trigger.
While on leash, this couldinclude a dog that's lunging,
(01:58):
barking, growling and otheraggressive behaviors.
Now it's important todifferentiate leash reactivity
from true aggression.
While both can look similar,leash reactivity is often rooted
in frustration or fear ratherthan a desire to do harm.
(02:22):
All right, now do me a favor Ifyou love what we do, please hit
that pause button, no matterwhere you're listening.
Give us a five-star reviewwherever you get your podcast.
Giving us a five-star reviewhelps to get our content rated
(02:42):
higher so that more people canbenefit from what we're talking
about here at Dog Training Today.
So please give us a five-starreview.
If you're listening to this onYouTube, please hit that
subscribe button, hit the likebutton.
Also, click on the bell so thatyou get regular notifications
(03:03):
when our podcasts the newpodcasts are launched Today.
I want to just take a fewminutes to talk about leash
reactivity and what some of thecommon causes of leash
reactivity are.
And one of the biggest reasonsthat there's leash reactivity is
a result of dogs having fearand anxiety.
(03:26):
Fear can trigger reactivebehaviors.
If a dog feels threatened or ifthey feel scared, they may
react aggressively to protectthemselves.
Folks, 99% of all quote-unquoteaggression that is out there is
really rooted in fear.
(03:47):
It's extremely rare for anyanimal to go into fight or
flight unless they perceivesomething as threatening.
And to perceive something asthreatening means that that
animal your dog is experiencingfear and anxiety.
One of the second most commoncauses of leash reactivity is
(04:11):
frustration.
Leash frustration and barrierfrustration occur when a dog
wants to approach something butcan't due to the leash, leading
to reactive behaviors.
A third common cause of leashreactivity is a lack of
socialization Dogs that haven'tbeen properly socialized.
(04:35):
They may not know how tointeract appropriately with
other dogs or other people, andthat might be resulting in their
reactivity.
Another common cause for leashreactivity is previous negative
experiences.
Trauma or bad encounters withother dogs or people can cause a
(05:01):
dog to become reactive as adefensive mechanism.
Now there's also not just thedog that's on one end of the
leash, but the human on theother end of the leash, and we
need to talk about the humanfactors that contribute to leash
reactivity, because you, as thehandler, you as the pet parent,
(05:25):
play a significant role in yourdog's leash reactivity as well.
One of the most common problemsis inconsistent handling,
giving mixed signals.
Pet parents that give mixedsignals to their dogs can
confuse their dogs.
(05:46):
It can make it harder for themto understand what behavior is
expected, and that's a lack ofconsistency.
What is it that?
When you're out and you've gotyour dog on leash and you know
that you have a problem withleash reactivity, what's your
(06:08):
plan?
What's your goal?
What's your training objective?
What's your plan?
How are you going to get there?
And are you consistent withwhat you're doing each and every
time that you are taking yourdog out?
Because if your dog'sexperience is one where, when it
(06:29):
gets on the leash and you gofor a walk, it's constantly
being reactive and your dog isrehearsing those behaviors.
That's what you're going to getand you'll get that even before
(06:50):
it starts, before you even walkout the door, because your dog
starts to get habituated, yourdog starts to get conditioned to
expect.
When the leash goes on, we'regoing to go out and I'm going to
be reactive Because you putyour dog in that situation and
(07:13):
we're going to talk a little bitmore about that.
Another reason and this againrelates to you the pet parent
tension on the leash.
Keeping the leash tight canreally escalate a dog's
reactivity by increasing theirstress and their sense of
restraint.
Remember I talked about thatfrustration, getting to the end
(07:36):
of that leash, wanting to get tosomething and not being able to
get there.
You know there's a lot of dogsthat are not aggressive.
They're just very excitable onleash and their reactivity isn't
necessarily aggression.
They may want to really get toanother dog, get to another
(07:56):
person and if they get therethey may be just fine.
They may be just fine, but it'sall the craziness from when you
put the leash on and you walkout that front door and the
expectation, because yourexperiences with your dog have
been these crazy leash reactiveexperiences towards other people
(08:20):
, towards other dogs, and yourdog's adrenaline kicks in
instantly as soon as the leashcomes out, before you've ever
walked out the door.
All right.
Another reason is usingpunishment-based methods, which
can really worsen reactivity asit can increase fear and anxiety
(08:44):
rather than addressing the rootcause.
So for those of you where theleash reactivity is rooted more
in anxiety, more in fear, andyou're dealing with this by
punishing, by correcting thisbehavior, it may seem like
initially that you're doing theright thing because perhaps
(09:07):
you're able to stop the behavior, perhaps you're able to
temporarily suppress the outwardbarking, the lunging, the
whining, the unruliness on theleash.
But if we've got a dog, but ifwe've got a dog where that
reactivity is more rooted inanxiety, in stress, in fear, and
(09:30):
we're using punishment even ifit's a mild level of fear, pain
or intimidation that we use withpunishment, that merely
suppresses outward behavior, itadds to the internal pressure.
It's kind of like your dog's apressure cooker now, because
rather than relieving thepressure of the anxiety and the
(09:55):
fear and dealing with thatunderlying root cause that is
contributing to your dog'sreactivity, if we just punish
the outward behavior, it's likeputting a lid on the top of a
pot of boiling water, thatanxiety, that stress, that fear.
(10:19):
You've done nothing with that.
And while there's a lot oftrainers and a lot of training
programs and a lot of trainingtools that are designed to
suppress behavior, they donothing to deal with the
underlying root cause.
And if you've got a behaviorthat is rooted in anxiety,
rooted in fear, that behavior isgoing to come back.
(10:40):
It's not a matter of if, it's amatter of when.
And you know, I watch folksthat never deal with the
underlying fear.
They never deal with theunderlying anxiety and they find
themselves having to be heavyhanded with their dogs, where
(11:02):
they're having to hang theirdogs on the leash, they're
having to use prong collars,give harsh corrections using
electronic collars, giving harshcorrections there, and even
with those tools, they may stillbe struggling.
Their dogs are at the end ofthe leash, choking, gagging,
having difficulty breathing,being incredibly reactive, and
(11:23):
the entire idea of going foranother walk with the dog for
this pet parent is a completeand total nightmare, something
that you definitely are notlooking forward to doing again.
So what can we do?
What can we do?
What are some effectivestrategies to manage and reduce
(11:45):
the leash reactivity?
So one of the first things thatwe need to understand is that
we've got to get out of themindset of what you don't want
your dog to do.
Get out of the mindset ofpunishment, because, again,
punishment's just going tosuppress the outward behavior
(12:07):
temporarily and that in the longrun because, like I said, it's
like putting a lid on the top ofa pot of boiling water really
makes that reactivity, thatleash reactivity, worse in the
long run.
And that's why a lot of peopleare still dealing with this,
because all they've been doingis going from one technique of
(12:33):
suppression to another techniqueof suppression.
Maybe they used a prong collarfor a while and then maybe that
stopped working so they startedusing an electronic collar.
Maybe they were using acompressed air sprayer and that
worked for a while and thatstopped working.
Punishment doesn't deal withthe underlying root cause and
(12:55):
you're only going to have atemporary quick fix and it's not
a real fix at all.
Using positive reinforcementtechniques, rewarding calm
behavior and usingdesensitization methods that is
what's going to help a dogassociate the presence of
(13:16):
triggers with positive outcomes.
So your dog, when it's on awalk, whether the trigger be
people, whether the trigger beother dogs or other animals on
the walk, your dog associatesthe presence of that trigger as
a bad thing, as a scary thing,as something to feel like there
(13:37):
might be a threat or to bestressed about.
Desensitization methods andusing counter conditioning.
And counter conditioninginvolves changing your dog's
emotional response to thetrigger by pairing the trigger
with something that they enjoy,like very high value food,
(13:58):
rewards or their favorite toy.
Now, these things aren't magic.
You have to work at it at it.
And part of dealing with theunderlying root cause of a dog
that has leash reactivitybecause of anxiety, because of
(14:18):
stress, because of fear is,first and foremost, making sure
that when you put the leash onthe dog, your dog doesn't
encounter one of these triggersthat cause the leash reactivity
and your dog continues torehearse that behavior.
What I talked about earlier Ifthe experience you and your dog
(14:42):
have is the same every day,that's the experience you and
your dog are going to have andyou can expect to have that the
next day.
Nobody wants to hear what I'mgoing to say next.
The first step to the fix isavoiding the triggers.
No, it's not the fix, but it'sthe first step to the fix.
(15:07):
It's like if I've got a brokenwater pipe.
I can't begin to fix the brokenwater pipe if I have the water
on still.
I've got to turn the water off.
Then I can begin to work onthat broken water pipe.
But I'm going to have a mess ifI don't first avoid the water,
turn the water off.
If your dog continues torehearse the reactive behaviors
on leash with triggers, likeother dogs and other people when
(15:29):
you go on walks, it's nevergoing to get better.
The first thing you need to dois stop the water from spilling
out all over the place, turn offthe water.
So you need to avoid thetriggers.
Now, that is until you've donethe work.
And when I say avoid thetriggers, all I mean is you are
(15:52):
going to proactively designtraining scenarios.
You are going to proactivelydesign training scenarios with
triggers, but you're going to doit in such a way that you can
actually have some success.
See, one of the biggestproblems you're having is you
(16:13):
let your dog go from zero to 100.
Your dog hits that red zone andbecomes reactive, and now it's
too late.
There's nothing you can do.
There's nothing you can do Now.
It's just a matter of fightingwith the dog and trying to get
the dog out of there.
But once they've hit that redzone, there's nothing that
(16:34):
you're going to do.
And you see, this is wheretrainers that use corrections,
use punishment, will saypositive reinforcement doesn't
work.
Because they'll say hey, haveyou ever had your dog out on a
walk and your dog saw a trigger,another dog or another person,
and your dog just went ballistic.
And how effective was it, mrand Mrs Pet Parent, when you
(16:58):
took out that piece of foodreward?
Your dog didn't care, did it?
No, not when they hit the redzone.
By that point it's way too late.
Your dog is way too stressedout.
It's not going to care aboutfood, it's not going to care
about a toy, it's not going tocare about playing, it's in
(17:19):
fight or flight.
And again, this is especially ifyour dog, if the leash
reactivity, is rooted in anxietyand fear.
But we're so concerned withpunishing and correcting the
unwanted behavior, which reallydoes little to nothing to
resolve the issue.
It's a temporary band-aid.
(17:41):
If that, if you can get thatthe real way to deal with leash
reactivity, if you really wantto put leash reactivity to bed,
then you need to start lookingat positive reinforcement
techniques.
You need to begin to thinkabout rewarding calm behavior,
(18:03):
using desensitization andcounter conditioning to change
the association that your doghas with these triggers.
See, every time your dog goesout of the house your dog has
this eruption and that's yourdog's association with these
triggers.
But if you take a strange dog,if you take a strange person,
(18:25):
whatever your dog's triggers areand you control that situation,
are and you control thatsituation.
Let's just say, for example,your dog, if it gets within 50
feet of another dog or if itgets within 50 feet of a strange
person, your dog goes crazy,barking, lunging, snapping,
(18:47):
snarling.
You would never do training atthat distance.
You're not going to havesuccess trying to manage, train
control, modify your dog'sbehavior when your dog's in that
insane state.
So what does that mean?
(19:08):
That means that you have tofind the distance where your dog
can be from a trigger.
How far away does your dog needto be from a strange person or
a strange dog?
Where your dog can see them butdoesn't care, but doesn't care
(19:29):
when your dog can see thestrange dog.
Your dog can see the strangeperson but your dog is not
reactive, your dog's not pullingon the leash, your dog is not
barking, your dog is not lunging, your dog is relaxed.
You look at its body languageand you don't see stress.
Your dog doesn't show thatstressful body language.
(19:51):
You know that you see beforeyour dog becomes reactive.
Your dog's loose, relaxed, willtake food rewards, can stay
focused on you, isn't staring atthe trigger.
But you've got to set uptraining situations and you need
(20:11):
to do.
How often should you do this?
You need to set up trainingsituations a minimum of three to
five times a week and you needto spend five to ten minutes
every session.
And the way that you're goingto set things up is proactively.
You're going to know that whenyou get your dog out, there
(20:33):
aren't going to be triggers inclose proximity and, proactively
, you'll have set up a trainingscenario where you've got a
helper that is either thetrigger, if your dog's triggered
by people, or that helper has adog with them, because your dog
is triggered by strange dogs.
(20:54):
However, unlike just walkingout the door and not knowing
what you're going to bump intoin terms of dogs and people in
your training situations, youknow exactly what you're going
to run into because you'vegotten outside before your dog
has.
You've made sure that there areno triggers in close proximity
(21:16):
that would cause your dog to gocrazy and you set it up so that
you can get your dog out, at adistance from the trigger a
strange dog or a person but thatdistance is one where your dog
doesn't have a care in the world.
Now, now that your dog's nottriggering your dog's in this
(21:37):
neutral state, its underlyingemotional state is neutral.
Does your dog love thosetriggers?
No, but your dog's notconcerned about them either
because they're far enough away.
Well, we need to change theunderlying emotional state from
scary to good.
We start by getting your dog ata distance where your dog's
(22:00):
emotional state is neutral.
And now we need to useclassical conditioning, counter
conditioning, where we havethese very well-timed
presentations of the trigger ata distance where your dog
doesn't care.
But the exact moment thatstrange dog or that strange
(22:21):
person, that trigger, comes intoview, good things are happening
.
What do I mean by good thingsare happening?
As soon as that strange dog orstrange person comes into view,
you start feeding your dog highvalue food rewards For about one
to three seconds, constantly,feed, feed, feed, feed,
constantly and continuously forabout one to three seconds.
(22:42):
Then have your helper leave.
Have your helper whether you'redealing with just reactivity
towards people or reactivitytowards a person with a dog on a
leash.
Have your helper leave and asyour helper leaves and goes out
of view, you stop feeding yourdog.
(23:05):
And then the next day you'regoing to set this up again.
You're going to get outside.
You're going to know whereyou're doing this.
You're going to know thatthere's nothing around that's
going to set this up again.
You're going to get outside,you're going to know where
you're doing this.
You're going to know thatthere's nothing around that's
going to trigger your dog andyou're going to get your helper
positioned far enough away thatwhen your dog comes out and
first sees that trigger, it'sfar enough away.
(23:26):
Your dog doesn't care and assoon as your dog sees the
trigger, bam, start feeding.
You see, it's like an on-offswitch.
When your dog sees the trigger,the on switch comes on and you
start feeding or you startplaying with your dog's favorite
toy, but whatever it is, you'reusing as a positive reinforcer.
(23:49):
Whether it be food, whether itbe a toy, it's got to be
something that your dogabsolutely loves.
Listen, if we've got thingsthat your dog loves whether it
be toys, play, whether it befood on a scale from 1 to 10, 10
being what your dog loves themost, 1 being what your dog
loves the least you've got to beworking with level 10 positive
(24:12):
reinforcers.
So if it's about chicken, ifit's about cheese and you're the
kind of person I don't want togive my dog human food, guess
what?
If that means it's going tohelp you get your dog over its
reactivity, why are you fightingit?
(24:33):
Positive reinforcement, whatyou're using as a reinforcer, is
what's motivating your dog.
Think about it as currency.
If I'm asking you to do a job,hey, I want you to dig ditches
and I'm giving you a dollar aday, how motivated are you to
dig those ditches?
But if I'm giving you athousand dollars a day to dig
ditches, it makes a bigdifference.
So the level, the quality, thevalue of the positive reinforcer
(24:59):
that you're using with your dogmakes a big difference.
But what you need to do whenyou're setting up these counter
conditioning and desensitizationsessions, you're controlling
the environment.
You're keeping the trigger at adistance from your dog where
your dog is not going to trigger, where your dog's not going to
(25:19):
react and your dog's not showingany level of stress.
This is where most of you getthis wrong.
You put your dog in a situationwhere there's triggers, you set
them up for failure becauseevery day you take the dog out,
the dog triggers and you keepdoing the same thing over and
over again, expecting adifferent result, fighting with
(25:41):
your dog being frustrated.
Well, you've set your dog upfor failure.
You know what's going to happen.
You need to start proactivelysetting your dog up for success
by creating these trainingscenarios getting your dog at a
distance where it's not going tobe triggered, pairing, positive
(26:01):
reinforcement.
As soon as your dog sees thetrigger, boom, that's when
feeding starts.
Then only do that for a fewseconds and then ask your helper
to leave, go out of view.
And when the helper leaves,when that trigger goes out of
your dog's view, you stopfeeding.
See the way dogs think, the waythey learn, the way they
(26:22):
process information.
Everything is a very black andwhite cause and effect
association and that's whatyou're doing with counter
conditioning and desensitization.
You are making this very clearblack and white cause and effect
association that, hey, when thetriggers come out, it's like
the on switch goes on, goodthings happen, and when the
(26:43):
trigger goes away, boom, the offswitch goes on and all the good
things stop the feeding stops.
And you are going to do thatover and over, consistently,
repetitively, over days, overweeks, until your dog is
thrilled about this exercise.
(27:04):
And after you've conditionedyour dog to absolutely love this
training game, then, and onlythen, can you begin to move your
dog a little bit and I'mtalking a little bit a little
bit closer to the trigger, thenext training session.
(27:25):
So let's say that you started50 feet away and maybe you spent
three weeks where each week youdid five training sessions.
So you've done 15 trainingsessions over a period of three
weeks, five a week.
Your training sessions are fiveor 10 minutes long.
You've been avoiding triggersso your dog doesn't rehearse
(27:46):
those behaviors, getting themmore and more ingrained.
You're controlling theenvironment, proactively,
staging setups for your dog tohave success.
And after you've conditionedyour dog at the safe distance
and your dog is loving this game, you went from scary trigger to
(28:11):
neutral because you kept yourdog at a distance where it was
neutral, but now, by pairingpositive reinforcers with the
presentation of that trigger,now your dog doesn't have a
neutral emotional response, yourdog has a positive emotional
response.
However, the work's not done.
(28:32):
It's rare for things to be justfixed with one or two sessions.
You have to be consistent.
You have to create consistencyand repetition.
Little by little, gradually,systematically, you're able to
get your dog closer and closerand closer.
(28:54):
A couple feet here, here, thenmaybe a few weeks you get a
couple feet closer.
Maybe you practice for anotherfew weeks and you get a little
bit closer.
But it takes work.
It takes practice.
I want to take a quick second totalk to you about calm dogs.
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(29:14):
years researching and developing.
That's right.
Calm Dogs is my creation.
I developed Calm Dogs for dogswith anxiety, fears, phobias,
reactivity and even aggression.
I created Calm Dogs to helpdogs that have noise
sensitivities, like a fear ofthunderstorms or fireworks.
Calm Dogs also works great fordogs with separation anxiety, a
(29:35):
fear of car rides and travel.
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(29:55):
Take the 45 calm dog challenge.
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calmdogscom or doganxietycom.
All right, so back to talkingabout leash reactivity and what
you can do.
(30:16):
One of the important things Ifeel when you're dealing with a
dog that has reactivity issuesis that you have taken time to
condition a reward marker,whether that reward marker be a
verbal cue, a word like yes,that you've conditioned the dog
conditioned a dog yes meanstreat or whether you have
(30:36):
conditioned your dog to say aclicker, where you've done
clicker conditioning and yourdog understands, so you've got a
reward marker, a conditionedreward marker.
If you don't know what aconditioned reward marker is, go
to my website atdogbehavioristcom.
Go to where my articles are.
I've got about 90 articles onmy website, dogbehavioristcom.
(30:59):
Find the article on clickertraining.
It will talk about how youcondition a reward marker, why
that's important.
If you've got a signal that youcan instantly communicate to
your dog when your dog does abehavior that you like and you
want, your timing is critical.
(31:20):
You've got about zero to asecond to communicate to your
dog when your dog does what youwant.
Hey, this is what I want andthis is what's going to get a
reward.
If your timing is late and thisis what's going to get a reward
If your timing is late.
You know a lot of people areusing food in training and the
(31:41):
overall experience for the dogis better.
It's kind of like, you know, ifyou get invited to a couple
different parties and there'sonly one or two of those parties
where they are serving foodversus parties that don't serve
food, well, you might enjoy theparties that have food better
(32:04):
than the ones that don't.
But when it comes to using foodand training, your timing is
everything.
And let's say, you ask the dogto do something like look at you
right, because one of thethings that's important to do if
you've got a dog that isreactive is work on redirecting
focus, teaching, focus exercisesefficiently and have your dog
(32:26):
understand hey, this is thebehavior I want and you're going
to get rewarded for that.
See, if you ask for a behaviorlike you ask your dog, hey, look
(32:47):
at me, and you reward your dogthree seconds after your dog
looks at you.
Well, your dog might like thefood, but whether your dog
connects the dots, whether yourdog associates hey, the reason I
got the food is because I waslooking at mom or dad, I was
looking at my pet parent.
That's debatable because ifyour timing is off, chances are
(33:11):
that communication is kind ofgray, it's kind of murky, and
the best we can do for our petsis when our communication is
extremely black and white.
And if you've got a signal likeyes or nice, or a click of a
clicker, and you've taken timeto associate that with something
(33:34):
positive, to associate thatwith something positive a food
reward, a toy play Now, whenyour dog does something right,
when your dog is relaxed, whenyour dog is calm hey, let's say
you're walking down the streetand the last four days your dog
was excitable when you walkedout the door.
And all of a sudden, today youwalk out the door and where,
(33:55):
maybe on a scale of one to 10,10 being the most excitable your
dog could be, for the last weekyour dog's been at a 10, but
you walk out the door and todayyour dog's at a seven.
What if you could mark that?
What if you could communicateto your dog instantly at that
moment?
Hey, this is what's going toget you the good stuff.
This is what's going to get youthe good stuff.
(34:15):
This is what's going to get youthe food reward.
Well, if you don't have aconditioned marker, if you don't
have that condition, whether itbe a clicker or an auditory
verbal marker chances are you'reunable to communicate to your
dog and you're unable topositively reinforce the
(34:37):
behaviors that you want.
So, lack of consistency, poortiming, not having a conditioned
marker, not avoiding triggers,not being proactive and setting
up training situations so thatyou can do counter conditioning
and desensitization Really,really important those are all
(35:02):
so important.
Okay, this type of controlledexposure, gradually exposing
your dog to triggers in a verycontrolled manner, starting at a
distance where your dog feelscomfortable, where your dog
feels safe, doing this slowlyand gradually, decreasing the
(35:23):
distance over time, making surethat you're keeping a safe
distance from triggers duringwalks that's going to prevent
reactive outbursts.
Help your dog stay calm whileyou're doing the work.
Listen, if your dog's highlyreactive, this may take you to
(35:44):
get to a I mean a really goodplace with your dog.
It may take a couple months,but those of you that have been
looking for quick fixes, youhave found out that your quick
fixes only might last at themost, a month or two and then it
comes back and now you'restruggling with your dog and
(36:06):
that's why you're still dealingwith reactivity because you're
using punishment or you're notbeing consistent, while you need
to do the work of counterconditioning and desensitization
to modify your dog's underlyingemotional state from your dog
being nervous and anxious aboutthese triggers to viewing them
(36:27):
as something positive thatbrings about good things.
Until you've done the work,you're going to struggle, but
remember patience, consistencythose are key when working with
a leash reactive dog.
By understanding the causes andapplying the effective
(36:48):
strategies, you can help yourdog overcome their reactivity
and you can make your walks awhole lot more enjoyable and you
don't have to struggle whenyou're walking the dog.
We just want to get out and walkour dogs.
We don't want to have to dealwith all that insanity, all that
(37:11):
craziness.
Do me a favor hit that likebutton, hit that share button If
you're listening to this onYouTube.
Youtube, hit the bell so youalways get notified when we have
a new podcast.
Please give us a five-starreview.
Share this with your friendsand families.
I'm will bangura.
You've been listening toanother episode of dog training
(37:31):
today.
I'm out of here.
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