November 19, 2024 • 69 mins
Unlock the secrets to successful potty training for your furry friends with pet behavior expert Will Bangura. Do you find yourself frustrated with a rambunctious new puppy or an older dog that just can't seem to get it right? You're in the right place. This episode promises to equip you with the tools and insights from Will's book, "House Training 101: Potty Training Unleashed," to transform your approach to dog training.
Join us as Will shares expert advice on everything from the strategic use of crates and indoor leashes to the psychology behind reward-based training. He emphasizes the power of high-value rewards like chicken and cheese and the critical importance of consistent routines. Learn how to employ a reward marker system and understand the nuances of timing and consistency in reinforcing positive behaviors. Will's tips extend to effective cleanup strategies, ensuring that both you and your dog maintain a harmonious living space while building a strong bond through patience and empathy.
In addition to practical training techniques, Will discusses the emotional aspects of potty training, highlighting the harm of counterproductive punishments and advocating for a strategy rooted in understanding and patience. This episode is a treasure trove for both new and seasoned pet owners, offering a comprehensive guide to overcoming common challenges and achieving potty training success. Remember to have your journal ready to track those crucial feeding and bathroom habits, and prepare to embark on a rewarding journey with your four-legged companion. Happy training!
If you need professional help please visit my Dog Behaviorist website.
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Episode Transcript
Available transcripts are automatically generated. Complete accuracy is not guaranteed.
Speaker 1 (00:01):
Raised by wolves with canine DNA in his blood.
Having trained more than 24,000pets, helping you and your fur
babies thrive, live in studiowith Will Bangura answering your
pet behavior and trainingquestions.
Ladies and gentlemen, pleasewelcome your host and favorite
pet behavior expert, willBangura.
Speaker 2 (00:25):
Would you like to go on walking?
Y'all ready for this?
Good day, dog lovers.
I'm Will Bangura.
Hey, thanks for joining me foranother episode of Dog Training
Today.
So glad that you're here Today.
(00:47):
We're going to be talking aboutpotty training.
Yeah, whether it be a new puppyor whether it be an older dog,
nobody likes their pet using thehouse as a toilet, do you?
So we're going to be talkingabout potty training and I think
I know just a little bit on thesubject, since I actually wrote
(01:08):
a book on potty training, andif you're really struggling with
a puppy, if you're reallystruggling with your dog, you
can go to Amazon and pick up mybook on potty training.
It's called House Training 101,potty Training Unleashed by
Will Bangura.
But I'm going to give you allthe information that you need.
(01:28):
It's all going to be free, it'sall here for you and we're
going to be going over that inabout the next hour or so.
There's a lot of informationfor us to go over.
Typically, when I go into aclient's home and I'm working
with them and they've got aproblem with potty training, I'm
(01:48):
usually there for about twohours.
So we're going to be here forabout an hour talking about
potty training.
All right, but before we do that, do me a favor.
If you have not subscribed tothe podcast, please do me a
favor and subscribe.
If you're listening to this onYouTube, please hit that
(02:09):
subscribe button, hit that likebutton as well, and if you love
what we do and you're listeningto our podcast, please give us a
five-star review.
Okay, enough of the shamelesspromotion.
Potty training, like I said,nobody enjoys it.
It's probably one of thebiggest frustrations and pains
(02:33):
that anybody that ends upgetting a new puppy has to deal
with or gets an older dog theymight be struggling with is
potty training, and what I'mhoping to do here is, on one
hand, make it as simple aspossible for you, but, on the
other hand, make it ascomprehensive as possible,
(02:56):
because I think one of thereasons we don't have success
with potty training is that it'snot comprehensive enough, and
so I'm going to get into all thenuances that are related to
potty training.
All right, let's talk about acouple of things that we're
(03:16):
going to need to be successful.
Number one as far as tools forpotty training, you're going to
want a notebook or somethingthat you can use as a journal.
Whether you write in a notebookor whether you do a journal
electronically.
You're going to need that.
Also going to need a treatpouch and you're going to need
(03:39):
high value food rewards, such assmall pieces of chicken, small
pieces of cheese, little cut uppieces of hot dog.
You're going to need that.
Also, I recommend that you havea crate and that you
incorporate crate training aspart of potty training.
You're going to need a clickeror you're going to need to use
(04:01):
an auditory marker for part ofthe communication.
If you don't know what I'mtalking about when I say marker
training or I say clickertraining, if you don't know what
a marker is, it's important.
So do me a favor and hit pauseif you're listening.
Go to one of my websites.
(04:23):
Go to dogbehavioristcomdogbehavioristcom and go to the
menu.
Click on articles.
There's almost a hundredarticles up there.
Find the article on clickertraining and also there's an
article on crate training.
There's an article on cratetraining.
(04:49):
Now, this podcast is not goingto be going over all the nuances
of crate training.
It's not going to go throughall the nuances of clicker
training or marker training.
I'm going to touch on those,but they're important for you to
right.
So when we're dealing withpotty training.
We want to minimize the numberof accidents that we're having
(05:14):
in the house and we want tomaximize the number of successes
that we're having outside.
And I'm approaching this fromthe standpoint that you've got a
dog that's going to thebathroom in the house.
You don't want it to go in thehouse, you want it to go outside
.
Now, if we're talking about asituation where you want to
(05:36):
train the dog to, say, use alitter box or to go on pee pads
and that's being done in thehouse, that's fine.
I cover that in my book, houseTraining 101, potty Training
Unleashed, that you can get onAmazon.
I am not going to be going intothat in this particular podcast
(06:00):
, nor am I going to be goinginto hey, what are some special
considerations when you have anolder dog that you need to potty
train?
I've got a whole section in mybook, house Training 101, potty
Training Unleashed on pottytraining, the older dog.
This podcast we're not going toget into it.
So we're going to be talkingabout a younger dog, typical dog
(06:24):
, puppy, and it's going to bemore generic.
But if you want specifics, youcan get the book House Training
101.
A behavior consultation with me, where we spend two hours going
(06:44):
in depth, specificallycustomizing what we need to do
to help get your pup or your dogpotty trained.
But let's get into it, let'sdive right into it.
The number one rule when itcomes to potty training any dog,
I don't care if it's a youngpuppy, I don't care if it's an
(07:09):
older dog, I don't care whetherit's a male dog, a female dog, I
don't care if it's what breed.
It is the number one rule atall times your dog is in your
eyesight and with you and you'resupervising your puppy, your
(07:30):
dog at all times.
And when you can't have thatpuppy, your dog in your eyesight
, you're confining.
And when I say confining, Imean crating the puppy, your dog
.
And while again, this is not apodcast on crate training, size
(07:50):
of crate is really important.
If the crate is not much largerthan the dog, that's
appropriate.
If you get a really large crate, a lot of puppies or dogs will
go in the corner and pee in thecorner.
Same thing, if you sometimesput towels in the crate or
bedding in the crate, they maygo in the corner and pee in the
(08:18):
corner and then go sit in theother corner when we've got a
crate and it's the appropriatesize, which is just slightly
bigger than the dog or puppywe're putting in the crate and
their ability to stretch out inthat crate.
We don't want the crate muchbigger than that.
We don't want anythingabsorbent in that.
The whole idea of the crate isthey're not going to want to go
(08:40):
to the bathroom in the cratebecause they don't want to soil
where they've got to stay orwhere they're going to be
sleeping.
Now, anytime you put a puppy ordog in a crate before, before
you put them in the crate,please take them outside.
Give them an opportunity torelieve themselves.
See, a lot of people areputting puppies and dogs in
(09:03):
crates when they need to go tothe bathroom and boom, they're
having an accident right away inthere and once a puppy, once a
dog starts going to the bathroomin the crate.
Now it makes it that much moredifficult.
A tool that we would like touse to help potty train a puppy
(09:25):
or dog now doesn't help us.
Now, again, if you've got apuppy or a dog, they're not
crate trained.
I encourage you to getinformation on crate training,
whether you get that from mywebsite at dogbehaviorscom or
somewhere else.
I am a strong believer in theuse of crates when it comes to
(09:47):
potty training, because my ruleagain, rule number one at all
times your puppy or your dog isin your eyesight, you're
supervising, and when you can'twatch that puppy or dog, they're
crated.
But before you create them, youtake them outside, give them an
opportunity to relievethemselves.
Now, if you put your puppy,your dog, in a crate and they're
(10:11):
freaking out and they've gotall kinds of either isolation,
anxiety, crate anxiety,separation anxiety you need to
deal with that.
Anxiety, separation anxiety youneed to deal with that.
We don't want to just take adog and put them in a crate and
they're having a horribleexperience just because we're
trying to potty train.
All right, now there are a lotof puppies or a lot of dogs, but
(10:35):
put them in a crate and they'regood to go.
But then again there arepuppies and dogs that you put
them in the crate and they'regoing to freak out, and I am a
big believer in makingeverything positive for the dog.
Think about it when do youlearn best?
Do you learn best when thingsare chaotic and stressful and
(10:58):
unpleasant, or do you learn thebest when things are fun and
when things are positive?
Exactly when they're fun andwhen they're positive.
So we want to make this fun andpositive for your puppy or dog.
But the number one rule thepuppy or dog is in your eyesight
at all times.
When your puppy or dog cannotbe in your eyesight, you're
creating the puppy or dog 1.5,rule 1.5, anytime you put the
(11:25):
puppy in the crate, you takethem outside.
Give them the opportunity torelieve themselves first.
Now let me talk a little bitabout bringing them outside and
relieving themselves things.
(11:50):
When we take them outside, weneed to think about how long
should they be out there for andwhat should they be doing.
When we take them out to go tothe bathroom, well, one of the
things we want to take them tothe same spot every time for
consistency.
Teach them where the locationis outside that you want them to
go to the bathroom in.
Now we want them to startsniffing on the ground.
(12:12):
You know how dogs are theystart sniffing.
They got to find that perfectspot to go to the bathroom.
Now, if your puppy, if your dogis not sniffing, if they don't
have their nose on the ground,if they're not looking for a
spot to go to the bathroom,chances are they're trying to be
playful with you, trying to getyour attention.
(12:32):
Maybe they're distracted bybirds or other sounds or things
that they're seeing in theenvironment.
Listen, if your puppy or dog isdistracted, don't start the
clock.
What do I mean by that?
Typically, if a dog or a puppyhas to go to the bathroom and we
get them to the place where wewant them to go and they start
(12:54):
looking for a spot to go to thebathroom, they typically are
going to get that all covered.
They're going to be done inabout five minutes or less.
I watch a lot of people taketheir puppy, take their dog
outside and they're hanging outthere with the dog or the puppy
for 20 minutes, 30 minutes, 40minutes, an hour, hour and a
half.
That's ridiculous.
(13:15):
Five minutes.
But when do you start timingthat five minutes?
When they're not distracted,when they're sniffing, when
they're looking for a place togo?
Now if you feel, and you'repretty sure, that your puppy or
dog has to go and you take themout to their potty spot and
(13:40):
they're not distracted andthey've been sniffing and you've
been out there with them forfive minutes and they don't go
and you really believe thatthey've got to go, put them in
their crate.
Put them in their crate, keepthem in there for 15 minutes.
Then take them back outside tothe potty spot.
Give them another opportunityto go to the bathroom.
(14:02):
Keep them out there for fiveminutes, undistracted five
minutes.
You know.
If 10 minutes they'redistracted and then they start
sniffing, then start the fiveminutes once they start sniffing
, not when they're distracted.
If they don't go to thebathroom within five minutes,
bring them back in.
Put them right back in thecrate for 15 minutes.
(14:23):
Repeat that process until theygo to the bathroom.
Now, remember I said we want tohave as many successful
opportunities to reward and wewant to have the least amount of
accidents, have the leastamount of accidents.
(14:51):
So, supervising, keeping yourpuppy, your dog, in your
eyesight and when you can'twatch them, have them in their
crate.
That is absolutely critical.
If you're struggling to watchyour puppy, your dog, if they
won't follow you around thehouse when you're going from
room to room, you need to put aleash on that puppy or dog and
(15:13):
you need to keep them at yourside.
Look, none of this is difficult.
Oh, it might be inconvenient,but you know what's really
inconvenient Dealing with thisfor a year, two years, five
years, six years down the road,the dog is still using the house
as a toilet.
Do it right the first time andyou'll be done with this.
(15:40):
Tools.
What we need?
A treat pouch, high value foodrewards.
You want to have a 10 footleash, not a short leash like a
four or six foot.
Have a 10 foot leash and whenyou take your dog outside and
you're bringing them to the spotwhere you want them to go to
the bathroom, keep the leashloose, quietly, follow them
(16:04):
around at the end of the leash.
Try to Quietly follow themaround at the end of the leash.
Try to stand still if you can.
We don't want to distract them.
This is not playtime.
If your puppy or dog wants toengage you in play or is trying
to get your attention, just turnyour back to them.
Turn your back to them.
Turn your back to them and whenthey stop harassing you, stop
(16:27):
wanting your attention, thenwatch them again.
Remember, when we have thepuppy or dog outside, we're out
there.
For what?
Five minutes, undistracted fiveminutes, okay.
Now, when they go to thebathroom, wonderful things need
(16:52):
to happen.
This is where we need to havethe highest value food reward.
Whatever your puppy or dog loves.
The more they love it, the moreit's their favorite.
Whether that be a cut up pieceof chicken, a little piece of
cheese, little cut up piece ofhot dog, use what their favorite
is.
That's going to motivate themmore.
The other thing is we've got tobe incredibly consistent.
(17:13):
Every single time they go tothe bathroom in the right place,
we need to reward them withtheir absolute favorite food
reward.
Need to reward them with theirabsolute favorite food reward.
We are going to be doing thatfor quite a while.
Yes, we'll be able to wean offfood.
We won't need food forever.
But I want you to think aboutthe high value food reward like
(17:37):
it's a paycheck, like it'scurrency, and we're asking the
puppy or dog to do some work,and the better the pay typically
, the better the performance isgoing to do some work, and the
better the pay typically, thebetter the performance is going
to be All right.
So don't skimp on what you'regiving your puppy or dog.
Use the highest value foodreward.
(17:57):
I don't like using store-boughttreats.
I find that, first of all,they're not that healthy.
Number two, they're not aspalatable.
They're not as yummy as, say, alittle cut up piece of chicken
or a little cut up piece of hotdog or cheese.
Find what your puppy or dogloves the most.
Make sure that you have a treatpouch.
(18:18):
Make sure that you put thattreat pouch on first thing in
the morning, right away when youwake up.
Put that on.
Hey, listen, leave that treatpouch on you at all times.
Yeah, I'm serious, leave thetreat pouch on you at all times.
Now, when you leave the house,yeah, take it off.
(18:38):
Then when you go to bed atnight, take it off then as well.
But other than when you leavethe house, other than when
you're sleeping in bed, keep thetreat pouch on.
Why?
Why do I say that?
Because you know how puppiesand dogs are when they realize
that you've got this pouch ofyummy treats.
(18:58):
They bother you, don't they?
They just keep staring at thetreat, they keep putting their
nose by it.
Maybe they start pawing you andharassing you for it.
Yeah, they think, because thattreat pouch is out, that you're
just going to be reaching inthere and giving them treats.
(19:19):
Your puppy, your dog needs tounderstand that there is nothing
special about that treat pouch.
Just because you're wearing itdoesn't mean wonderful things
are going to happen.
Your puppy, your dog needs tolearn that nobody reaches in
that treat pouch, nobody givesthem a food reward, nothing
(19:42):
great happens until they do aspecific behavior.
The problem is most of us, whenwe're using food in training,
we never have it with us.
We usually just go get it andhave it in our hand.
And training is difficult whenyou have food in your hand
(20:04):
because the puppy or dog is justgoing to fixate on that food in
your hand rather than doingwhat we want.
For example, if I go outsidewith my puppy or dog that I'm
trying to potty train and I'vegot a handful of yummy treats
and it knows it, do you thinkit's going to want to put its
nose on the ground and startsniffing around to find that
(20:26):
perfect spot to go to thebathroom?
No, it's going to be justlooking at me, looking at my
hand, wanting the food that's inthere.
Now the same exact thing happenswhen we first begin to use a
treat pouch, because most of uswill go put the treat pouch on,
(20:48):
go outside, let the dog go tothe bathroom, maybe reward, and
then we come back in and we takethe treat pouch off.
That is the wrong thing to do.
Or think about this.
Think about if you were doingobedience training.
One of the worst things that wecould do would be to put on our
(21:09):
treat pouch, do 15, 20 minutesof obedience training and when
we're done, take it off.
We're going to effectivelytrain this dog to not want to do
anything when we're not wearinga treat pouch and we want to
get to the point where we don'thave to use food.
But trust me, the best way toget rid of that treat pouch, the
(21:35):
best way to stop using food, isright from the beginning.
Put that treat pouch on firstthing in the morning, leave it
on at all times, only take itoff when you leave the house or
when you go to bed at night.
Once your puppy or dog is fullypotty trained and you've had
(21:55):
consistency, you've had timewhere there's not been any
accidents, we'll be able to getrid of it.
Well, you might be asking howlong is that going to take?
I don't know.
You may get your puppy or yourdog trained in a week.
Then again, it might take youfour months.
I don't know.
(22:15):
The one thing we can't do is wecan't rush this.
You cannot work faster thanyour puppy or dog's ability to
learn this stuff, but you wantto have that tree pouch on Dogs.
The way they think, the way theylearn, the way they process
information, everything is atblack and white.
(22:37):
Cause and effect association.
Dogs live in the here and now.
They're not thinking about thefuture.
They're not thinking about thepast.
They make sense out of theworld in the here and now.
They're not thinking about thefuture.
They're not thinking about thepast.
They make sense out of theworld in the here and now.
And it's so critical that wedesensitize them and change
(22:59):
their association with thattreat pouch that it doesn't mean
hey, just because it's on, I'mgoing to be reaching in there.
Just because it's on me,no-transcript, but I need to
wear that when we're not givingfood to the dog.
For that to happen, it onlytakes a little while.
(23:21):
Eventually, within a week or so, your dog forgets about the
treat pouch if you do it thisway, and then it becomes a tool
rather than a distraction, okay.
So supervise or confine.
Always give your puppy or dogan opportunity to relieve
(23:46):
themselves.
Before you put them in thecrate, make sure the size of
crate's appropriate.
Make sure there's nothing inthere that's absorbent.
Okay, these things are critical.
Again, if you don't know how tocrate train, if you've got a
puppy or a dog that's averse tothe crate, get information on
(24:06):
crate training.
You can get that ondogbehavioristcom Also, I've got
an article on my site,dogbehavioristcom, that talks
about the right way to use food.
But before we get into that, weneed to take a quick 60 seconds
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(25:30):
All right, let's get back intopotty training.
You know, as we're talkingabout the number one rule
supervise or confine, as we'retalking about the number one
rule supervise or confine andwe're talking about confining in
a crate, don't feel bad, don'tfeel guilty.
Utilize that crate to help youpotty train this puppy or dog.
(25:52):
Now, a lot of you might put thepuppy or dog in there when you
leave the house.
A lot of you might put thepuppy or dog in there when you
go to bed at night.
But when you're home with thepuppy or dog, you to spend a
little time in a crate.
Your puppy, your dog needs tohave some independent time, some
(26:23):
time away from you, some timewhere it can be independent.
Now, granted, you're going towant to put some toys in there,
keep it busy.
And again, if you've got apuppy or dog that's not crate
trained, if they're averse tothe crate, you've got to train
them to like the crate first.
You can't just put them inthere and shut the door and
expect everything to work outjust great.
(26:44):
But you know, when you're homeit's so easy for the dog to get
away from you and to sneak awayand have an accident and you
don't realize it With your bestefforts at really really making
sure that your puppy or your dogis in your eyesight, and when
it's not, that you're creatingit's these little situations
(27:09):
where we run into problems.
The phone rings.
We've got an important call,we're focused on that and our
attention because it's on thatcall is now away from the puppy
and the puppy wanders away.
So when the phone rings youneed to think about it.
If you cannot focus on thepuppy and take the call at the
(27:33):
same time, tell that caller hey,hold on one second, I'll be
right with you, and then goahead and take the puppy and put
it in the crate, then handlethe phone call and then, when
you're done with that call, thenyou can get the puppy out of
the crate.
When you're home by yourselfand you've got to use the
(27:54):
restroom yourself, right, a lotof us we just think, ah, it'll
be fine, I'll just walk into therestroom, it's only going to
take me a second, the puppy willbe fine.
No, it's in those moments whereyou can't watch the puppy, even
if it's for 30 seconds.
This is when we run intoproblems.
Put the puppy in the crate, usethe restroom.
(28:15):
When you're done, then you cantake.
Put the puppy in the crate, usethe restroom.
When you're done, then you cantake the puppy out of the crate.
Somebody comes to the door.
Maybe you've got somebody likea repair person coming in to fix
the air conditioner or thefurnace or somebody to do some
other kind of work on the houseand you need to talk to them.
And while you're talking withthem, you're not paying
(28:38):
attention to the pup of your dog.
The pup of your dog wandersaway, has an accident.
So in this situation, whensomebody comes to the door and
you know you need to focus onthem, tell them can you hold on
a minute, just wait one second.
I'll be right back with you andthen go get your puppy, get
(28:58):
your dog and crate them and thengo deal with this person that
came to the door and then, whenyou're done, you can let the
puppy or dog out when you'rewatching.
Well, if you're like me, whenyou're watching TV, if you start
to feel yourself getting tiredand you're supposed to be
watching the puppy or dog butyou're dozing off.
(29:20):
Hey, that is a time for you tosay, hey, hold on, I need to put
the puppy, I need to put thedog in the crate because I'm
dozing off and I'm not going tobe great at watching the puppy
or dog.
How about this?
It's exhausting.
(29:43):
It's exhausting to have tofollow around and watch a puppy
24 seven.
How about you need a break?
It's okay.
It's okay for you to need abreak.
It's okay for you to say, hey,I'm tired, I just need a break.
30 minutes an hour, it's okay.
Don't feel bad about creatingthe puppy.
(30:05):
All right, that's much betterthan you missing the puppy or
dog.
Having an accident and thenpotty training is taking much
longer frustrating you,frustrating your puppy or dog.
Having an accident and thenpotty training is taking much
longer.
Frustrating you, frustratingyour puppy or dog.
So again, whenever you can'twatch your puppy or dog and I'm
(30:28):
talking even for 30 secondsdon't feel bad.
Put them in the crate.
Be very liberal in your crateusage.
It will help you to get towhere you want to go, Having a
dog or a puppy that'ssuccessfully trained to go to
bathroom outside in the correctspot.
(30:51):
The more you use the crate, thefaster you're going to get
there.
Now I don't want you to be lazy.
I don't want you to just throwthe puppy or dog in the crate
all day long and that's yourexcuse for not watching the
puppy.
No, that's not okay either.
The puppy should be spendingmost of their time outside of
(31:14):
the crate and they should bewith you.
And if you struggle to watchthem and keep you with them, put
a leash on them.
Have them on a leash so that ifthey're not following you from
one room to the next as you'removing around, or if you say,
hey, come on with me, and theydon't know what the heck to do
and you need to help guide them,we'll put a leash on them.
It's okay to have a leash onyour dog in the house.
(31:35):
It always amazes me how manypeople don't think about that.
They have problems with theirdogs in the house and they never
think about putting a leash onthe dog in the house Now.
Granted, I don't want a leashon my dog in the house forever,
but the leash is a tool and ifmy dog leash is a tool and if my
(32:02):
dog doesn't listen to me in thehouse, there are times when I'm
going to need to help thatpuppy or dog.
There are times when I need tohave the leash on the puppy or
dog.
So think about that.
Do you need to have a leash onthem?
Another thing let's talk abouthow we're going to have success.
Remember, I said we want tocreate the most amount of
success and the least amount ofaccidents.
(32:22):
So one of the things that we'regoing to do is we're going to
keep a journal and we're goingto start collecting data, and
once we've got maybe a week,maybe two weeks of data that
we've collected, that's going tobe really important and that's
going to make our life a littlebit easier.
Let me talk about what we'regoing to put in this journal.
(32:44):
This is going to be our pottytraining journal, and in the
journal I'm going to write downevery time my puppy or dog eats,
and I'm also going to writedown every time my puppy or dog
drinks.
In addition to that, I'm goingto write down every time my dog
(33:06):
pees and I'm going to write downevery time my dog poops.
So I'm going to put the dateand I'm going to put the time
when my dog eats, the date andtime when it drinks, the date
and time when it has, when itgoes pee and the date and time
when it goes poop.
I'm also going to make a notewhen I put down what time they
(33:27):
peed or pooped Was it anaccident or was it a success and
I just put an A or an.
S Okay.
Put an A or an S Okay.
Now, in addition to that, inorder to make this data useful,
we're going to have to do oneother thing, and that is
(33:49):
temporarily, in the beginning.
What I'm going to ask you to dois feed on a strict schedule
and also water on a schedule.
Now, when it comes to feedingon a strict schedule, I want you
to put the food down at thesame time every time.
Try to be consistent.
(34:11):
Put it down at the same timeevery time.
Put the food down for fiveminutes.
Pick it up after five minutes.
Whatever your puppy or dogdidn't eat, don't worry about it
.
Put the food back down at thenext scheduled feeding five
minutes.
They're going to learn to eatwithin those five minutes and
they're going to learn to eat ona schedule.
(34:31):
When we can feed on a schedule,we can then start to get data
that's going to help us predicthow long after the dog eats does
it need to poop.
So, let's say, for a week ortwo, I'm collecting data.
I'm writing down every timewhat time it is.
(34:55):
Let's say that I'm feedingdinner at 6 pm and let's say
that, as I'm watching my puppyor dog, it has an accident at 7.
It poops in the house.
Well, I'm going to put down 7pm poop accident.
Maybe I'm getting the dogoutside Some of the time.
(35:15):
I'm having success outsidewriting down when the dog poops.
But let's say that I'mcollecting data on when the dog
eats and when it poops and as Istart looking through the data I
see a pattern and perhaps thatpattern is after the puppy or
(35:36):
dog eats, within 45 minutes toan hour.
Almost invariably, this dog'sgot to poop.
Whether it's an accident orwhether it's in the right spot,
it always seems to occur between45 minutes to an hour after it
eats.
Now I'm making that timeline up.
Hypothetically that might notbe what it is for your dog, but
(35:57):
if that's the data and if that'sthe picture that it's painting
for me, do you see how that'spowerful?
Yeah, I'm going to set an alarmfor 45 minutes so that I, after
you know I feed my dog.
I'm going to set an alarm for45 minutes.
I want to get my dog out to thecorrect spot before it has an
(36:19):
accident, but around thetimeframe that I think the
puppy's going to have to go, sothat I'm not out there forever
and I don't have to keep ongoing back out there all the
time and I'm going to give thepuppy or dog five minutes of
undistracted time to go to thebathroom and they typically will
(36:40):
.
If they're distracted theymight not because they're not
finding their spot, but if mydata is painting the picture,
hey, there's a pattern Everytime the puppy or dog eats it's
pooping within 45 minutes to anhour.
That allows me to set the dogup for success, get the dog
(37:06):
outside to the right potty placeso that I can have a successful
elimination and I can rewardthe dog.
Okay, I'm going to do the samething with water.
I just might offer water moretimes throughout the day than
(37:27):
food, but I'm not going to leavewater out.
Now, this is temporarily.
Once your puppy, your dog ispotty trained, you can do
whatever you want.
You can leave water out, youcan leave food out.
I don't like to free feed, buthey, if that's your thing, fine.
But when you're doing the pottytraining, there's no free
feeding.
When you're doing pottytraining, there's no leaving
(37:49):
water out.
And when you're doing pottytraining, there is no having the
puppy or dog out unsupervisedtraining.
There is no having the puppy ordog out unsupervised when I
give water or when the puppy ordog drinks the water.
I'm going to write that down inmy journal, just like with food.
Every time the puppy or dogdrinks, I'm writing down what
(38:10):
time it is.
Now, every time the puppy ordog pees, I'm also writing that
down in my journal, whether it'san accident or whether the
puppy or dog peed in the rightpotty spot.
But again, when I look at thatdata after I've collected it for
a long enough period of timeusually a week or two I should
(38:33):
start seeing a pattern.
I should start seeing a patternthat X amount of minutes after
my puppy or dog drinks water, itneeds to pee.
Now let's just, for example'ssake, say that my data that I've
(38:54):
collected has shown me thatafter my dog or puppy drinks,
within 20 to 30 minutes after itdrinks, it needs to pee.
Well, that information'spowerful.
I now get to set an alarm priorto that timeframe.
So if my puppy or dog, after itdrinks typically, is going to
(39:17):
need to pee within 20 to 30minutes, I'm going to set my
alarm for 20 minutes.
I might even set it a littlebit shorter, maybe 18 minutes.
I want to get the dog or puppyout to the correct potty spot
when it needs to go.
I don't want it to wait toolong and then the dog has an
(39:42):
accident.
So, knowing that information isvery powerful, this is critical
.
You may think oh, what a pain inthe butt I have to feed on a
schedule.
Oh, what a pain in the buttI've got to get water on a
schedule.
Oh, what a pain in the buttI've got to get water on a
schedule.
Oh, what a pain in the buttI've got to keep a journal.
Let me tell you something youdo that it's going to speed up
(40:04):
the potty training process by 10times.
You want to have success.
This is what you do.
And again, if you're struggling, there's only so much
information I can give in thepodcast.
You can get my book on Amazon,the book that I wrote, all
evidence-based, science-based,on potty training House Training
(40:25):
101, potty Training, unleashedby Will Banguro.
You can find that on Amazon.
All right, let's get back intothe podcast here on potty
training.
So number one rule is the puppyor dog is always in my eyesight,
with me, and when I can't watchthe puppy or dog, it's in the
(40:47):
crate.
Before I crate the dog, Ialways want to give the puppy or
dog an opportunity to relieveitself.
First, when the phone rings,when I need to use the restroom,
when somebody comes over to thehouse, it needs to talk to me
when situations arise that I'vegot to do something.
(41:10):
Even if it's for a very shortperiod of time 30 seconds, a
minute, two minutes I'm going tocreate the puppy if I have to
take my attention off of it.
Remember, we talked about ifthe phone rings an important
phone call and you are focusedon the call.
You're not paying attention tothe pup of your dog.
We talked about if a workercomes to the house and you've
(41:34):
got to give them your undividedattention.
You're not there, available towatch the pup of your dog Create
them.
Okay, maybe you're a mom or adad and you've got little kids
at home and you've got to reallyfocus on them and maybe during
that moment you can't watch thepup of your dog.
(41:56):
Get them in the crate we talkedabout.
If you start feeling yourselfgetting tired and you can't
watch them, if your eyes areclosing right, get them in the
crate.
Don't be afraid to use thecrate.
We want them out as much aspossible, but don't be afraid to
use the crate Now when we takethe puppy or dog outside.
(42:20):
I like to use, like I said, along leash, 10-foot leash.
I don't want it to get tight, Iwant them to be able to be a
little independent and move awayfrom me.
I'm being as inconspicuous asquiet, non-engaging.
I don't want the puppy or dogto think, hey, this is playtime,
(42:42):
so when we go out to go potty,we're not playing and I'm not
talking to them.
Okay, I'm just there like arobot, like a tree, quietly
following them around.
Now, if I've got them out thereand they've been sniffing and
they're not distracted, we'vebeen out there for five minutes
and the puppy or dog didn't go.
(43:03):
We go right back in the houseand they go right back into
their crate for 15 minutesbecause my data is telling me
man, this puppy, this dog's gotto go.
And I believe it, because thedata doesn't lie and for
whatever reason, we got thepuppy or dog out there, it
didn't go.
Well, bring it back in.
And for whatever reason we gotthe puppy or dog out there, it
didn't go.
(43:23):
Well, bring it back in, put itin the crate for 15 minutes, go
right back outside for five, andusually they'll go.
Now, some of you, when you comein after your puppy or dog has
peed or pooped.
They come in the house and justa short period of time goes by
maybe within five minutes evenand they go in the house.
(43:46):
They have an accident.
You're frustrated, you're likewhat the heck?
They just went to the bathroomoutside.
Listen, that also is data andthat gets put in your journal.
And maybe you've got a dog,maybe you've got a puppy that
doesn't empty its bowel, doesn'tempty its bladder in one shot.
(44:09):
Maybe you've got a dog thatpoops twice, poops three times
before it empties its bowels.
Maybe your dog's got to squattwo or three times before it
empties its bladder or lifts itsleg two or three times before
it empties its bladder or liftsits leg two or three times
before it empties its bladder.
Look, you're collecting thatdata.
(44:31):
If you find that you've got apuppy or a dog that goes to the
bathroom outside, you bring themright back in and they go in
the house.
That is data, that is feedback,that is information that tells
you don't go in right after thedog goes.
Wait another five minutes.
(44:53):
Give the pup of your dog anopportunity to completely empty
its bladder or completely emptyits bowels before you go in.
Okay, that's important becausethere are a lot of dogs like
that.
(45:15):
Now, when it comes to rewardingyour dog or your puppy with this
super high value food reward,it's important that your puppy
or dog understand why it'sgetting the food reward.
Does your puppy or dog connectthe dots cognitively that, hey,
the reason it's getting thatfood reward is because it just
(45:35):
went to the bathroom in thecorrect spot?
You know a lot of us are usingfood in training and the dogs
love the food and perhaps theoverall training experience is
more positive.
But a lot of dogs are notconnecting the dots that the
reason they're getting the foodis because of a specific
behavior and the reason thathappens, if it happens, is
(45:59):
because of timing.
One of the most importantthings in training dogs is your
timing.
Let me say that again One ofthe most important things in
training your dogs is yourtiming.
You literally have about one totwo seconds, if that, to get the
food in your puppy, your dog'smouth at the exact moment they
(46:22):
engage in the behavior you wantto reward, or they will not
connect the dots.
What do I mean by that?
If I ask the dog to sit and thedog sits, it's butt on the
ground and five seconds later Igive it a food reward.
It is highly debatable whetheror not that dog associates the
(46:44):
fact that it got that foodreward because it sat, because
that five-second window might betoo long and we might not be
able to get food in our puppy ordog's mouth fast enough for
them to be able to connect thedots mouth fast enough for them
(47:10):
to be able to connect the dots.
So professional trainers usewhat we call a marker system in
training and we create what'scalled a reward marker.
Now, a marker is something thatmarks a behavior and lets the
puppy or dog know that behavioris getting a food reward.
Okay, some trainers condition aword to mean the dog's getting
(47:36):
food.
Some trainers use what's calleda clicker to condition to the
dog that when they hear theclicker they're going to get
food, to condition to the dogthat when they hear the clicker
they're going to get food.
Initially, the marker whetherit be using a clicker in
training or whether it be usinga word to mark a behavior
initially, those markers have novalue, they have no meaning to
the dog.
(47:57):
You know, if I go to the storeand I pick up a clicker, there's
no magic.
I can't just bring it home andstart clicking and all of a
sudden the dog's doing wonderfulthings.
No, the way that markers work.
First you have to condition andpair whatever marker that
you're using to mark a behaviorwith the food reward over and
(48:18):
over and over again.
And the way it works.
Let's say I've got 30 pieces ofcheese little pieces of cheese
and I've got a clicker.
I go click treat, give the dogthe treat right after I click as
soon as the dog eats it.
I'm going to click again, giveanother treat right away.
As soon as the dog finishesthat treat, click, give another
treat right away.
I'm going to click treat, clicktreat, click treat, click treat
(48:43):
over and over, maybe about 30times in a row.
And I'm going to do that formaybe two, three, four days in a
row and then, after I've donethat conditioning where there's
been a lot of repetition, clicktreat, click treat, click treat.
I'm going to test it.
Maybe on day five I pull out myclicker when my dog's not
(49:07):
noticing.
Now my dog's got to be awake.
My dog's got to be in closeproximity where it can hear.
The clicker Doesn't have to belooking at me, matter of fact, I
prefer.
If it's not looking at me.
I give this random click andwhat I'm looking for?
Does the dog or puppy comerunning to me looking for the
high-value food reward?
(49:28):
Because if the dog or puppy isproperly conditioned that they
understand click means treat.
When they hear that clickerthey're going to come running to
me.
Okay, if they don't, maybe Ineed to spend more time
conditioning that clicker.
Click treat, click treat, click, treat more.
Maybe that timing has to bebetter.
(49:51):
Maybe I'm not getting the treatto the dog fast enough after I
click.
Now, once you've got your markerconditioned whether it's using
the word yes and pairing thatwith a treat, whether it's a
click and a treat Remember thereare a couple of rules Never
click, never use your markerwithout giving the food reward.
(50:15):
A click or any mark that yougive is a promise to pay.
You have to give food or don'tuse the marker.
Promise to pay, you have togive food or don't use the
marker.
Every time you mark, every timeyou click, you reward.
That's a given, that's a rule.
(50:35):
Okay, now the beauty of havinga marker and being able to have
conditioned a reward marker.
Once you have that rewardmarker conditioned, now you
don't have the problem you hadwith timing.
Why, even if I tell a dog tosit and that dog is a football
(50:56):
field away from me, as soon asthat rear end hits the ground I
can click the clicker and thedog can hear that click sound
right when its butt hits theground.
And when the dog hears theclicker and the dog can hear
that click sound right when itsbutt hits the ground.
And when the dog hears theclick sound, that's a signal.
It's a marker that lets the dogknow hey, you're getting food,
so your timing's not off.
(51:17):
Now you can't take 20 minutesfrom the time you click to
getting the food in the dog'smouth, but it buys you time.
That marker, that click, is abridge to the food.
Does that make sense?
Now, this is not a podcast onclicker training.
It's not a podcast on markertraining.
(51:37):
If you aren't that familiarwith using markers, it's so
important to use markers.
And again, a clicker is just atype of marker.
If you're not familiar withmarker training or clicker
training, please go to mywebsite at dogbehavioristcom.
Go to the menu, click on whereit says articles, find the
(51:58):
article on clicker training, andthat will talk all about
clicker training, markertraining.
And at the bottom of thatarticle there's also an
hour-long podcast where I talkin depth about clicker training,
about marker training.
All right, so let's assumewe've conditioned our marker.
I'm going to assume we used aclicker.
(52:19):
You don't have to, but I'mgoing to assume we used the
clicker.
My dog or my puppy nowunderstands that when I click
that clicker it gets a treat.
Okay, that helps me to have avery clear black and white cause
and effect associationcommunication with that puppy or
(52:40):
dog when I'm trying to pottytrain dog, when I'm trying to
potty train Now don't reward thepuppy or dog when it's in the
act of going to the bathroom.
So let's say we get our puppy orour dog outside to the potty
spot, we want it to go.
The dog begins to squat, beginsto pee, pee and you click.
(53:04):
Guess what happens?
The dog gets excited because itwants the food.
It stops peeing and comes toyou for food.
What didn't happen?
It did not empty its bladderbecause you clicked while it was
peeing.
So when your dog is going tothe bathroom in the right place
(53:30):
when it's peeing, you wait untilthat last drop.
Soon as your puppy or dog comesup from the squat.
That's when you want to clickand reward.
Same thing when they're pooping.
Don't click and reward whilethey're in the middle of pooping
.
Wait till they come up whenthey finished Right.
Then, at that last moment, asthey come up from the squat,
(53:52):
click and reward the dog.
That's when you want, so you'renot interrupting them.
Okay, very important Makingsure you've got your food
rewards, making sure you've gotyour treat pouch.
Now let's talk about accidents,because accidents have happened
(54:22):
and they might continue tohappen, and that's okay.
Remember, we are feeding on aschedule, giving water on a
schedule.
We're keeping a journal.
We are writing down when thepuppy or dog eats, when the
puppy or dog drinks, when thepuppy or dog pees, when the
puppy or dog poops.
(54:43):
That data is helping usunderstand how long after the
puppy or dog eats does it poop,how long after the puppy or dog
drinks does it pee.
That data helps us to predictwhen it eats, when it drinks,
when we need to get the puppy ordog outside to have more
(55:03):
successes.
Again, the goal is to have lessaccidents, more success.
Granted, we'd love to have noaccidents and we're going to get
there, but that might take alittle bit of time If your puppy
or dog has an accident, do notpunish the dog.
(55:26):
Taking your dog and rubbing itsnose in its mess is a myth.
That will do nothing to helpyour dog understand where it
should go to the bathroom.
Especially remember we talkedabout timing a bathroom.
(55:48):
Especially remember we talkedabout timing.
Especially if you're usingcorrections or punishment after
the fact, if you didn't catchthe dog or puppy in the act,
your punishment.
They have no understandingwhatsoever.
All you're doing is creatinganxiety and stress in that
location, which anxiety andstress doesn't help any animal
(56:08):
learn.
It makes learning moredifficult.
Secondly, when you usecorrections and punishment with
your puppy or dog, you areruining that trust and that bond
and the relationship betweenyou and your dog, you and your
puppy.
All the science, all theresearch, all the evidence
(56:29):
that's out there has shownpunishment corrections are
unnecessary and in the long runthey make it worse.
You may temporarily suppressoutward behavior, but again,
you're not teaching the puppy ordog where to go to the bathroom
, what we want it to do andthat's what we need to be doing.
(56:54):
Okay, all right, but let's talkabout if there's an accident.
What do you do If you noticeyour puppy or dog having an
accident very calmly, withoutgetting upset.
Get them outside, go throughthe process we've been talking
about right, when they're notdistracted and they start
(57:15):
sniffing around, give them thefive minutes we talked about to
go to the bathroom.
If they go, as soon as theyfinish, give your click and
reward.
So you mark and reward.
Then you would go in the house,I would crate the puppy and
then I would begin the cleanupprocess.
Now let's talk about thecleanup process Both from the
(57:41):
perspective of what to do whenyou see that there's an accident
, or what do you do about allthe accidents that have happened
in the past.
Dogs tend to want to go back towhere they have peed or pooped
before and they use their nose,their sense of smell, to go back
there.
Back there, if the house smellslike pee and poop, they're pee
(58:09):
and poop Chances are they'regoing to want to go back to
those locations.
I'm assuming there have beenaccidents.
Now a lot of people useproducts that are out there that
get rid of the smell where youand I as a human can't smell it,
but the dog still can.
There are not a lot of greatproducts on the market that
(58:30):
actually get rid of that scentat the dog's level.
I mean folks, think about it.
A dog can smell a drop of blooda mile away.
It's incredible, away it'sincredible.
Their sense of smell isunbelievable.
One of the best products and Idon't get any money for pitching
(58:55):
this product, but one of thebest products on the market.
What I recommend to everybodyfor cleaning up their dog's
accidents is a product calledS-C-O-E-10-X.
S like Sam, c, like Cat O, likeOcean E, like Edward.
The number one, the number zero, the letter Xcom
(59:19):
S-C-O-E-10-Xcom.
Go to their website.
They've got lots of informationthere.
Read the instructions, watchthe videos.
When you use SCOE 10x, exactlythe way they tell you to, you
will get rid of the smell wherethe dog can't smell the urine
(59:43):
and the feces.
Therefore, they're not goingback to places, they've gone in
the house.
You know, I want you to thinkabout if they can smell their
urine or feces.
It's as if we're luring andtelling them to go to the
bathroom in that spot.
So it's critical.
Cleanup is critical.
(01:00:04):
Now, when you do your initialcleanup, you're going to want to
have a blacklight when I cometo people's homes and I pull out
my blacklight and I startlooking around for where there's
urine, where there have beenaccidents, where they've been
peeing, where they've beenpooping.
It's much worse than they everimagined.
Where they've been pooping it'smuch worse than they ever
(01:00:26):
imagined.
Now, just know that chances areyou're going to be disgusted.
You're going to get thatblacklight.
But any areas in the house thatare lighting up with the
blacklight, that means that itsmells.
Use the SCOE 10X, clean it up.
Once you've cleaned it up,you've got to go back with your
(01:00:47):
blacklight.
Make sure it doesn't light upanymore, because if it lights up
, it still smells.
So once you've gone through thewhole house with the blacklight
, you've cleaned up everything.
Nothing is lighting up anymore.
Everything's clean.
What you need to do from thatpoint on until you're done with
(01:01:10):
potty training every nightbefore you go to bed, you need
to go through the house, turnthe lights off, do an inspection
of the entire house with thatblack light.
Why do I say to do that?
Well, guess what If everythingwas cleaned up and all of a
sudden, today's Monday and onThursday, I do an inspection of
(01:01:32):
the house before I go to bed andsomething lit up?
The dog had an accident and Ididn't see it.
What's my number one rule?
Supervise or crate.
My dog is in my eyesight at alltimes and when I can't watch my
(01:01:52):
dog, I crated my dog, see ifI'm having accidents, if that's
my goal, if my goal is to keepthe dog or puppy in my eyesight
when I can't watch it, crate itand I feel like I think like I'm
doing a really good job doingthat.
Yet in the evening time when Iinspect, things are lighting up
and I'm saying, oh my God, mydog had an accident.
(01:02:14):
That lets me know I need to doa better job of either crate or
keeping my eye on the puppy ordog.
Okay, so cleanup is critical,really, really important and, as
I was saying just a littlewhile ago, all the science, all
(01:02:37):
the evidence shows us thatpunishment anything, what's
punishment?
Anything?
Punishment is a correction,guys.
Correction is just a nice wordfor punishment Anything
unpleasant.
Don't yell at the pup of yourdog.
Don't hit the pup of your dog,don't scold them, just calmly,
(01:02:57):
quietly, get them outside to thecorrect spot.
After they've gone, come in,crate them, clean it up.
I don't want your puppy or dogwatching you clean up the mess.
Okay, that's just one thing Idon't want.
I don't want them watching youclean up the mess.
I don't want them thinking thatyou are interested or find that
(01:03:21):
valuable.
Okay, all right.
The other thing that I want totalk about is doggy doors.
Okay, and we talked about thecrate.
I think that a doggy door isthe greatest invention that ever
(01:03:41):
occurred and I think it can beincredibly beneficial to help
you with potty training.
Now, when I'm initially pottytraining a puppy or dog, I don't
let them use the dog door.
I first want to teach themwhere I want them to go before
(01:04:02):
we start using the doggy doorand in the beginning, I'm not
just expecting them to go usethe doggy door on their own.
The way that I do it rememberthat crate that we were talking
about getting.
I get a wire crate and I get adouble door wire crate, so a
(01:04:24):
wire crate that has two doors onit.
I remove one of the doorscompletely from the wire crate,
which leaves the opening Right.
I take that opening where thatdoor was removed and I push that
up against the wall where thedog door is, so I can put the
(01:04:45):
puppy or dog in the crate when Iclose the door.
Remember there's two doors.
When I close the one door, thepuppy or dog's in the crate.
It has the ability to gothrough the dog door and go
outside, and if it comes back inthrough the dog door and comes
back into the house, it'srestricted to the kennel.
(01:05:06):
I love using this when.
When I go to bed at night, thisis my setup, and when I have to
leave the house and there'snobody there to watch the puppy
or dog, that is my setup.
Yes, I've got to teach them howto use the dog door, but the
(01:05:29):
beautiful thing about a dog door, the beautiful thing about a
two-door dog crate I can put thepuppy or dog in the crate.
They have the ability to go outthrough the dog door, go
outside and relieve themselves.
Then they have the ability tocome back in.
They can't make any messes orhave any accidents in the house,
can they?
Because they're in the crate.
I love dog doors.
(01:05:52):
I love crates.
Two-door crates make this justall the more successful.
Okay, so I highly recommend youget a double door dog crate.
Highly recommend if you can geta dog door and start doing that
, because once your puppy, onceyour dog has been conditioned
(01:06:19):
which means that we're trying tocreate a habit of going to the
bathroom outside, wherewonderful, rewarding things
happen when you do.
Okay.
We're trying to maximize oursuccesses by being able to
predict when the puppy or dogneeds to urinate or defecate,
(01:06:41):
because we're keeping thatjournal.
We're feeding on a schedule,we're giving water on a schedule
.
We know because of our datapretty much after the dog drinks
when it's going to have to pee,after the puppy or dog eats
when it has to poop.
These are all things that aresetting us up for success.
(01:07:04):
Now, some of you have somespecial needs.
Maybe you've got an older dogthat needs to be potty training.
Everything that I've told youhere holds true for the older
dog.
However, I've got an entiresection devoted to potty
training the older dog, and youcan find that in my book House
(01:07:27):
Training 101, potty Training,unleashed by Will Bangura.
You can find that on Amazon.
Maybe you've got a dog that.
Maybe you live in an apartment.
Maybe you've got a littleteacup dog and you want to train
it to exclusively use pottypads or a litter box.
(01:07:47):
You're training it to go to thebathroom in the house but not
on the floors, right?
I've got an entire section inmy book House Training 101,
potty Training, unleashed byWill Bangura.
You can get that on Amazon canget that on Amazon, okay.
So, where this podcast can giveyou a lot of great information,
(01:08:17):
a lot of tips to have a lot ofsuccess when it comes to potty
training your dogs or your puppy.
There's a lot more informationthat I'm able to cover in the
book.
So if you're really struggling,check out that book, because
you might get a lot of benefitfrom that as well.
Also, let your friends andfamily know about it.
Well, that music means we arejust about out of time.
(01:08:39):
I hope this information's beenhelpful.
I hope this helps you if you'vebeen frustrated with a puppy, or
if you've been frustrated witha puppy or if you've been
frustrated with a dog that wantsto use your house as a toilet.
It doesn't have to be that way.
It's important for you to havepatience.
It's important to have empathy.
Very important that you beconsistent, that your timing is
(01:08:59):
good.
Remember, supervise or confine.
Try to do this with a journal.
It'll make life a lot easierwhen you can predict when your
puppy or dog needs to go to thebathroom.
Thanks for listening everybody.
Please hit that subscribebutton, hit that like button.
If you're listening to thepodcast and you love what we do
(01:09:20):
Give us a five-star review.
Let your friends and familyknow all about dog training
today.
Until next time, happy training.
I'm out of here.
Raised by wolves with canine DNA in his blood.
Having trained more than 24,000pets, helping you and your fur
babies thrive, live in studiowith Will Bangura answering your
pet behavior and trainingquestions.
Ladies and gentlemen, pleasewelcome your host and favorite
pet behavior expert, willBangura.
Speaker 2 (00:25):
Would you like to go on walking?
Y'all ready for this?
Good day, dog lovers.
I'm Will Bangura.
Hey, thanks for joining me foranother episode of Dog Training
Today.
So glad that you're here Today.
(00:47):
We're going to be talking aboutpotty training.
Yeah, whether it be a new puppyor whether it be an older dog,
nobody likes their pet using thehouse as a toilet, do you?
So we're going to be talkingabout potty training and I think
I know just a little bit on thesubject, since I actually wrote
(01:08):
a book on potty training, andif you're really struggling with
a puppy, if you're reallystruggling with your dog, you
can go to Amazon and pick up mybook on potty training.
It's called House Training 101,potty Training Unleashed by
Will Bangura.
But I'm going to give you allthe information that you need.
(01:28):
It's all going to be free, it'sall here for you and we're
going to be going over that inabout the next hour or so.
There's a lot of informationfor us to go over.
Typically, when I go into aclient's home and I'm working
with them and they've got aproblem with potty training, I'm
(01:48):
usually there for about twohours.
So we're going to be here forabout an hour talking about
potty training.
All right, but before we do that, do me a favor.
If you have not subscribed tothe podcast, please do me a
favor and subscribe.
If you're listening to this onYouTube, please hit that
(02:09):
subscribe button, hit that likebutton as well, and if you love
what we do and you're listeningto our podcast, please give us a
five-star review.
Okay, enough of the shamelesspromotion.
Potty training, like I said,nobody enjoys it.
It's probably one of thebiggest frustrations and pains
(02:33):
that anybody that ends upgetting a new puppy has to deal
with or gets an older dog theymight be struggling with is
potty training, and what I'mhoping to do here is, on one
hand, make it as simple aspossible for you, but, on the
other hand, make it ascomprehensive as possible,
(02:56):
because I think one of thereasons we don't have success
with potty training is that it'snot comprehensive enough, and
so I'm going to get into all thenuances that are related to
potty training.
All right, let's talk about acouple of things that we're
(03:16):
going to need to be successful.
Number one as far as tools forpotty training, you're going to
want a notebook or somethingthat you can use as a journal.
Whether you write in a notebookor whether you do a journal
electronically.
You're going to need that.
Also going to need a treatpouch and you're going to need
(03:39):
high value food rewards, such assmall pieces of chicken, small
pieces of cheese, little cut uppieces of hot dog.
You're going to need that.
Also, I recommend that you havea crate and that you
incorporate crate training aspart of potty training.
You're going to need a clickeror you're going to need to use
(04:01):
an auditory marker for part ofthe communication.
If you don't know what I'mtalking about when I say marker
training or I say clickertraining, if you don't know what
a marker is, it's important.
So do me a favor and hit pauseif you're listening.
Go to one of my websites.
(04:23):
Go to dogbehavioristcomdogbehavioristcom and go to the
menu.
Click on articles.
There's almost a hundredarticles up there.
Find the article on clickertraining and also there's an
article on crate training.
There's an article on cratetraining.
(04:49):
Now, this podcast is not goingto be going over all the nuances
of crate training.
It's not going to go throughall the nuances of clicker
training or marker training.
I'm going to touch on those,but they're important for you to
right.
So when we're dealing withpotty training.
We want to minimize the numberof accidents that we're having
(05:14):
in the house and we want tomaximize the number of successes
that we're having outside.
And I'm approaching this fromthe standpoint that you've got a
dog that's going to thebathroom in the house.
You don't want it to go in thehouse, you want it to go outside
.
Now, if we're talking about asituation where you want to
(05:36):
train the dog to, say, use alitter box or to go on pee pads
and that's being done in thehouse, that's fine.
I cover that in my book, houseTraining 101, potty Training
Unleashed, that you can get onAmazon.
I am not going to be going intothat in this particular podcast
(06:00):
, nor am I going to be goinginto hey, what are some special
considerations when you have anolder dog that you need to potty
train?
I've got a whole section in mybook, house Training 101, potty
Training Unleashed on pottytraining, the older dog.
This podcast we're not going toget into it.
So we're going to be talkingabout a younger dog, typical dog
(06:24):
, puppy, and it's going to bemore generic.
But if you want specifics, youcan get the book House Training
101.
A behavior consultation with me, where we spend two hours going
(06:44):
in depth, specificallycustomizing what we need to do
to help get your pup or your dogpotty trained.
But let's get into it, let'sdive right into it.
The number one rule when itcomes to potty training any dog,
I don't care if it's a youngpuppy, I don't care if it's an
(07:09):
older dog, I don't care whetherit's a male dog, a female dog, I
don't care if it's what breed.
It is the number one rule atall times your dog is in your
eyesight and with you and you'resupervising your puppy, your
(07:30):
dog at all times.
And when you can't have thatpuppy, your dog in your eyesight
, you're confining.
And when I say confining, Imean crating the puppy, your dog
.
And while again, this is not apodcast on crate training, size
(07:50):
of crate is really important.
If the crate is not much largerthan the dog, that's
appropriate.
If you get a really large crate, a lot of puppies or dogs will
go in the corner and pee in thecorner.
Same thing, if you sometimesput towels in the crate or
bedding in the crate, they maygo in the corner and pee in the
(08:18):
corner and then go sit in theother corner when we've got a
crate and it's the appropriatesize, which is just slightly
bigger than the dog or puppywe're putting in the crate and
their ability to stretch out inthat crate.
We don't want the crate muchbigger than that.
We don't want anythingabsorbent in that.
The whole idea of the crate isthey're not going to want to go
(08:40):
to the bathroom in the cratebecause they don't want to soil
where they've got to stay orwhere they're going to be
sleeping.
Now, anytime you put a puppy ordog in a crate before, before
you put them in the crate,please take them outside.
Give them an opportunity torelieve themselves.
See, a lot of people areputting puppies and dogs in
(09:03):
crates when they need to go tothe bathroom and boom, they're
having an accident right away inthere and once a puppy, once a
dog starts going to the bathroomin the crate.
Now it makes it that much moredifficult.
A tool that we would like touse to help potty train a puppy
(09:25):
or dog now doesn't help us.
Now, again, if you've got apuppy or a dog, they're not
crate trained.
I encourage you to getinformation on crate training,
whether you get that from mywebsite at dogbehaviorscom or
somewhere else.
I am a strong believer in theuse of crates when it comes to
(09:47):
potty training, because my ruleagain, rule number one at all
times your puppy or your dog isin your eyesight, you're
supervising, and when you can'twatch that puppy or dog, they're
crated.
But before you create them, youtake them outside, give them an
opportunity to relievethemselves.
Now, if you put your puppy,your dog, in a crate and they're
(10:11):
freaking out and they've gotall kinds of either isolation,
anxiety, crate anxiety,separation anxiety you need to
deal with that.
Anxiety, separation anxiety youneed to deal with that.
We don't want to just take adog and put them in a crate and
they're having a horribleexperience just because we're
trying to potty train.
All right, now there are a lotof puppies or a lot of dogs, but
(10:35):
put them in a crate and they'regood to go.
But then again there arepuppies and dogs that you put
them in the crate and they'regoing to freak out, and I am a
big believer in makingeverything positive for the dog.
Think about it when do youlearn best?
Do you learn best when thingsare chaotic and stressful and
(10:58):
unpleasant, or do you learn thebest when things are fun and
when things are positive?
Exactly when they're fun andwhen they're positive.
So we want to make this fun andpositive for your puppy or dog.
But the number one rule thepuppy or dog is in your eyesight
at all times.
When your puppy or dog cannotbe in your eyesight, you're
creating the puppy or dog 1.5,rule 1.5, anytime you put the
(11:25):
puppy in the crate, you takethem outside.
Give them the opportunity torelieve themselves first.
Now let me talk a little bitabout bringing them outside and
relieving themselves things.
(11:50):
When we take them outside, weneed to think about how long
should they be out there for andwhat should they be doing.
When we take them out to go tothe bathroom, well, one of the
things we want to take them tothe same spot every time for
consistency.
Teach them where the locationis outside that you want them to
go to the bathroom in.
Now we want them to startsniffing on the ground.
(12:12):
You know how dogs are theystart sniffing.
They got to find that perfectspot to go to the bathroom.
Now, if your puppy, if your dogis not sniffing, if they don't
have their nose on the ground,if they're not looking for a
spot to go to the bathroom,chances are they're trying to be
playful with you, trying to getyour attention.
(12:32):
Maybe they're distracted bybirds or other sounds or things
that they're seeing in theenvironment.
Listen, if your puppy or dog isdistracted, don't start the
clock.
What do I mean by that?
Typically, if a dog or a puppyhas to go to the bathroom and we
get them to the place where wewant them to go and they start
(12:54):
looking for a spot to go to thebathroom, they typically are
going to get that all covered.
They're going to be done inabout five minutes or less.
I watch a lot of people taketheir puppy, take their dog
outside and they're hanging outthere with the dog or the puppy
for 20 minutes, 30 minutes, 40minutes, an hour, hour and a
half.
That's ridiculous.
(13:15):
Five minutes.
But when do you start timingthat five minutes?
When they're not distracted,when they're sniffing, when
they're looking for a place togo?
Now if you feel, and you'repretty sure, that your puppy or
dog has to go and you take themout to their potty spot and
(13:40):
they're not distracted andthey've been sniffing and you've
been out there with them forfive minutes and they don't go
and you really believe thatthey've got to go, put them in
their crate.
Put them in their crate, keepthem in there for 15 minutes.
Then take them back outside tothe potty spot.
Give them another opportunityto go to the bathroom.
(14:02):
Keep them out there for fiveminutes, undistracted five
minutes.
You know.
If 10 minutes they'redistracted and then they start
sniffing, then start the fiveminutes once they start sniffing
, not when they're distracted.
If they don't go to thebathroom within five minutes,
bring them back in.
Put them right back in thecrate for 15 minutes.
(14:23):
Repeat that process until theygo to the bathroom.
Now, remember I said we want tohave as many successful
opportunities to reward and wewant to have the least amount of
accidents, have the leastamount of accidents.
(14:51):
So, supervising, keeping yourpuppy, your dog, in your
eyesight and when you can'twatch them, have them in their
crate.
That is absolutely critical.
If you're struggling to watchyour puppy, your dog, if they
won't follow you around thehouse when you're going from
room to room, you need to put aleash on that puppy or dog and
(15:13):
you need to keep them at yourside.
Look, none of this is difficult.
Oh, it might be inconvenient,but you know what's really
inconvenient Dealing with thisfor a year, two years, five
years, six years down the road,the dog is still using the house
as a toilet.
Do it right the first time andyou'll be done with this.
(15:40):
Tools.
What we need?
A treat pouch, high value foodrewards.
You want to have a 10 footleash, not a short leash like a
four or six foot.
Have a 10 foot leash and whenyou take your dog outside and
you're bringing them to the spotwhere you want them to go to
the bathroom, keep the leashloose, quietly, follow them
(16:04):
around at the end of the leash.
Try to Quietly follow themaround at the end of the leash.
Try to stand still if you can.
We don't want to distract them.
This is not playtime.
If your puppy or dog wants toengage you in play or is trying
to get your attention, just turnyour back to them.
Turn your back to them.
Turn your back to them and whenthey stop harassing you, stop
(16:27):
wanting your attention, thenwatch them again.
Remember, when we have thepuppy or dog outside, we're out
there.
For what?
Five minutes, undistracted fiveminutes, okay.
Now, when they go to thebathroom, wonderful things need
(16:52):
to happen.
This is where we need to havethe highest value food reward.
Whatever your puppy or dog loves.
The more they love it, the moreit's their favorite.
Whether that be a cut up pieceof chicken, a little piece of
cheese, little cut up piece ofhot dog, use what their favorite
is.
That's going to motivate themmore.
The other thing is we've got tobe incredibly consistent.
(17:13):
Every single time they go tothe bathroom in the right place,
we need to reward them withtheir absolute favorite food
reward.
Need to reward them with theirabsolute favorite food reward.
We are going to be doing thatfor quite a while.
Yes, we'll be able to wean offfood.
We won't need food forever.
But I want you to think aboutthe high value food reward like
(17:37):
it's a paycheck, like it'scurrency, and we're asking the
puppy or dog to do some work,and the better the pay typically
, the better the performance isgoing to do some work, and the
better the pay typically, thebetter the performance is going
to be All right.
So don't skimp on what you'regiving your puppy or dog.
Use the highest value foodreward.
(17:57):
I don't like using store-boughttreats.
I find that, first of all,they're not that healthy.
Number two, they're not aspalatable.
They're not as yummy as, say, alittle cut up piece of chicken
or a little cut up piece of hotdog or cheese.
Find what your puppy or dogloves the most.
Make sure that you have a treatpouch.
(18:18):
Make sure that you put thattreat pouch on first thing in
the morning, right away when youwake up.
Put that on.
Hey, listen, leave that treatpouch on you at all times.
Yeah, I'm serious, leave thetreat pouch on you at all times.
Now, when you leave the house,yeah, take it off.
(18:38):
Then when you go to bed atnight, take it off then as well.
But other than when you leavethe house, other than when
you're sleeping in bed, keep thetreat pouch on.
Why?
Why do I say that?
Because you know how puppiesand dogs are when they realize
that you've got this pouch ofyummy treats.
(18:58):
They bother you, don't they?
They just keep staring at thetreat, they keep putting their
nose by it.
Maybe they start pawing you andharassing you for it.
Yeah, they think, because thattreat pouch is out, that you're
just going to be reaching inthere and giving them treats.
(19:19):
Your puppy, your dog needs tounderstand that there is nothing
special about that treat pouch.
Just because you're wearing itdoesn't mean wonderful things
are going to happen.
Your puppy, your dog needs tolearn that nobody reaches in
that treat pouch, nobody givesthem a food reward, nothing
(19:42):
great happens until they do aspecific behavior.
The problem is most of us, whenwe're using food in training,
we never have it with us.
We usually just go get it andhave it in our hand.
And training is difficult whenyou have food in your hand
(20:04):
because the puppy or dog is justgoing to fixate on that food in
your hand rather than doingwhat we want.
For example, if I go outsidewith my puppy or dog that I'm
trying to potty train and I'vegot a handful of yummy treats
and it knows it, do you thinkit's going to want to put its
nose on the ground and startsniffing around to find that
(20:26):
perfect spot to go to thebathroom?
No, it's going to be justlooking at me, looking at my
hand, wanting the food that's inthere.
Now the same exact thing happenswhen we first begin to use a
treat pouch, because most of uswill go put the treat pouch on,
(20:48):
go outside, let the dog go tothe bathroom, maybe reward, and
then we come back in and we takethe treat pouch off.
That is the wrong thing to do.
Or think about this.
Think about if you were doingobedience training.
One of the worst things that wecould do would be to put on our
(21:09):
treat pouch, do 15, 20 minutesof obedience training and when
we're done, take it off.
We're going to effectivelytrain this dog to not want to do
anything when we're not wearinga treat pouch and we want to
get to the point where we don'thave to use food.
But trust me, the best way toget rid of that treat pouch, the
(21:35):
best way to stop using food, isright from the beginning.
Put that treat pouch on firstthing in the morning, leave it
on at all times, only take itoff when you leave the house or
when you go to bed at night.
Once your puppy or dog is fullypotty trained and you've had
(21:55):
consistency, you've had timewhere there's not been any
accidents, we'll be able to getrid of it.
Well, you might be asking howlong is that going to take?
I don't know.
You may get your puppy or yourdog trained in a week.
Then again, it might take youfour months.
I don't know.
(22:15):
The one thing we can't do is wecan't rush this.
You cannot work faster thanyour puppy or dog's ability to
learn this stuff, but you wantto have that tree pouch on Dogs.
The way they think, the way theylearn, the way they process
information, everything is atblack and white.
(22:37):
Cause and effect association.
Dogs live in the here and now.
They're not thinking about thefuture.
They're not thinking about thepast.
They make sense out of theworld in the here and now.
They're not thinking about thefuture.
They're not thinking about thepast.
They make sense out of theworld in the here and now.
And it's so critical that wedesensitize them and change
(22:59):
their association with thattreat pouch that it doesn't mean
hey, just because it's on, I'mgoing to be reaching in there.
Just because it's on me,no-transcript, but I need to
wear that when we're not givingfood to the dog.
For that to happen, it onlytakes a little while.
(23:21):
Eventually, within a week or so, your dog forgets about the
treat pouch if you do it thisway, and then it becomes a tool
rather than a distraction, okay.
So supervise or confine.
Always give your puppy or dogan opportunity to relieve
(23:46):
themselves.
Before you put them in thecrate, make sure the size of
crate's appropriate.
Make sure there's nothing inthere that's absorbent.
Okay, these things are critical.
Again, if you don't know how tocrate train, if you've got a
puppy or a dog that's averse tothe crate, get information on
(24:06):
crate training.
You can get that ondogbehavioristcom Also, I've got
an article on my site,dogbehavioristcom, that talks
about the right way to use food.
But before we get into that, weneed to take a quick 60 seconds
to hear from our sponsor andpay the bills.
(24:28):
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(25:30):
All right, let's get back intopotty training.
You know, as we're talkingabout the number one rule
supervise or confine, as we'retalking about the number one
rule supervise or confine andwe're talking about confining in
a crate, don't feel bad, don'tfeel guilty.
Utilize that crate to help youpotty train this puppy or dog.
(25:52):
Now, a lot of you might put thepuppy or dog in there when you
leave the house.
A lot of you might put thepuppy or dog in there when you
go to bed at night.
But when you're home with thepuppy or dog, you to spend a
little time in a crate.
Your puppy, your dog needs tohave some independent time, some
(26:23):
time away from you, some timewhere it can be independent.
Now, granted, you're going towant to put some toys in there,
keep it busy.
And again, if you've got apuppy or dog that's not crate
trained, if they're averse tothe crate, you've got to train
them to like the crate first.
You can't just put them inthere and shut the door and
expect everything to work outjust great.
(26:44):
But you know, when you're homeit's so easy for the dog to get
away from you and to sneak awayand have an accident and you
don't realize it With your bestefforts at really really making
sure that your puppy or your dogis in your eyesight, and when
it's not, that you're creatingit's these little situations
(27:09):
where we run into problems.
The phone rings.
We've got an important call,we're focused on that and our
attention because it's on thatcall is now away from the puppy
and the puppy wanders away.
So when the phone rings youneed to think about it.
If you cannot focus on thepuppy and take the call at the
(27:33):
same time, tell that caller hey,hold on one second, I'll be
right with you, and then goahead and take the puppy and put
it in the crate, then handlethe phone call and then, when
you're done with that call, thenyou can get the puppy out of
the crate.
When you're home by yourselfand you've got to use the
(27:54):
restroom yourself, right, a lotof us we just think, ah, it'll
be fine, I'll just walk into therestroom, it's only going to
take me a second, the puppy willbe fine.
No, it's in those moments whereyou can't watch the puppy, even
if it's for 30 seconds.
This is when we run intoproblems.
Put the puppy in the crate, usethe restroom.
(28:15):
When you're done, then you cantake.
Put the puppy in the crate, usethe restroom.
When you're done, then you cantake the puppy out of the crate.
Somebody comes to the door.
Maybe you've got somebody likea repair person coming in to fix
the air conditioner or thefurnace or somebody to do some
other kind of work on the houseand you need to talk to them.
And while you're talking withthem, you're not paying
(28:38):
attention to the pup of your dog.
The pup of your dog wandersaway, has an accident.
So in this situation, whensomebody comes to the door and
you know you need to focus onthem, tell them can you hold on
a minute, just wait one second.
I'll be right back with you andthen go get your puppy, get
(28:58):
your dog and crate them and thengo deal with this person that
came to the door and then, whenyou're done, you can let the
puppy or dog out when you'rewatching.
Well, if you're like me, whenyou're watching TV, if you start
to feel yourself getting tiredand you're supposed to be
watching the puppy or dog butyou're dozing off.
(29:20):
Hey, that is a time for you tosay, hey, hold on, I need to put
the puppy, I need to put thedog in the crate because I'm
dozing off and I'm not going tobe great at watching the puppy
or dog.
How about this?
It's exhausting.
(29:43):
It's exhausting to have tofollow around and watch a puppy
24 seven.
How about you need a break?
It's okay.
It's okay for you to need abreak.
It's okay for you to say, hey,I'm tired, I just need a break.
30 minutes an hour, it's okay.
Don't feel bad about creatingthe puppy.
(30:05):
All right, that's much betterthan you missing the puppy or
dog.
Having an accident and thenpotty training is taking much
longer frustrating you,frustrating your puppy or dog.
Having an accident and thenpotty training is taking much
longer.
Frustrating you, frustratingyour puppy or dog.
So again, whenever you can'twatch your puppy or dog and I'm
(30:28):
talking even for 30 secondsdon't feel bad.
Put them in the crate.
Be very liberal in your crateusage.
It will help you to get towhere you want to go, Having a
dog or a puppy that'ssuccessfully trained to go to
bathroom outside in the correctspot.
(30:51):
The more you use the crate, thefaster you're going to get
there.
Now I don't want you to be lazy.
I don't want you to just throwthe puppy or dog in the crate
all day long and that's yourexcuse for not watching the
puppy.
No, that's not okay either.
The puppy should be spendingmost of their time outside of
(31:14):
the crate and they should bewith you.
And if you struggle to watchthem and keep you with them, put
a leash on them.
Have them on a leash so that ifthey're not following you from
one room to the next as you'removing around, or if you say,
hey, come on with me, and theydon't know what the heck to do
and you need to help guide them,we'll put a leash on them.
It's okay to have a leash onyour dog in the house.
(31:35):
It always amazes me how manypeople don't think about that.
They have problems with theirdogs in the house and they never
think about putting a leash onthe dog in the house Now.
Granted, I don't want a leashon my dog in the house forever,
but the leash is a tool and ifmy dog leash is a tool and if my
(32:02):
dog doesn't listen to me in thehouse, there are times when I'm
going to need to help thatpuppy or dog.
There are times when I need tohave the leash on the puppy or
dog.
So think about that.
Do you need to have a leash onthem?
Another thing let's talk abouthow we're going to have success.
Remember, I said we want tocreate the most amount of
success and the least amount ofaccidents.
(32:22):
So one of the things that we'regoing to do is we're going to
keep a journal and we're goingto start collecting data, and
once we've got maybe a week,maybe two weeks of data that
we've collected, that's going tobe really important and that's
going to make our life a littlebit easier.
Let me talk about what we'regoing to put in this journal.
(32:44):
This is going to be our pottytraining journal, and in the
journal I'm going to write downevery time my puppy or dog eats,
and I'm also going to writedown every time my puppy or dog
drinks.
In addition to that, I'm goingto write down every time my dog
(33:06):
pees and I'm going to write downevery time my dog poops.
So I'm going to put the dateand I'm going to put the time
when my dog eats, the date andtime when it drinks, the date
and time when it has, when itgoes pee and the date and time
when it goes poop.
I'm also going to make a notewhen I put down what time they
(33:27):
peed or pooped Was it anaccident or was it a success and
I just put an A or an.
S Okay.
Put an A or an S Okay.
Now, in addition to that, inorder to make this data useful,
we're going to have to do oneother thing, and that is
(33:49):
temporarily, in the beginning.
What I'm going to ask you to dois feed on a strict schedule
and also water on a schedule.
Now, when it comes to feedingon a strict schedule, I want you
to put the food down at thesame time every time.
Try to be consistent.
(34:11):
Put it down at the same timeevery time.
Put the food down for fiveminutes.
Pick it up after five minutes.
Whatever your puppy or dogdidn't eat, don't worry about it
.
Put the food back down at thenext scheduled feeding five
minutes.
They're going to learn to eatwithin those five minutes and
they're going to learn to eat ona schedule.
(34:31):
When we can feed on a schedule,we can then start to get data
that's going to help us predicthow long after the dog eats does
it need to poop.
So, let's say, for a week ortwo, I'm collecting data.
I'm writing down every timewhat time it is.
(34:55):
Let's say that I'm feedingdinner at 6 pm and let's say
that, as I'm watching my puppyor dog, it has an accident at 7.
It poops in the house.
Well, I'm going to put down 7pm poop accident.
Maybe I'm getting the dogoutside Some of the time.
(35:15):
I'm having success outsidewriting down when the dog poops.
But let's say that I'mcollecting data on when the dog
eats and when it poops and as Istart looking through the data I
see a pattern and perhaps thatpattern is after the puppy or
(35:36):
dog eats, within 45 minutes toan hour.
Almost invariably, this dog'sgot to poop.
Whether it's an accident orwhether it's in the right spot,
it always seems to occur between45 minutes to an hour after it
eats.
Now I'm making that timeline up.
Hypothetically that might notbe what it is for your dog, but
(35:57):
if that's the data and if that'sthe picture that it's painting
for me, do you see how that'spowerful?
Yeah, I'm going to set an alarmfor 45 minutes so that I, after
you know I feed my dog.
I'm going to set an alarm for45 minutes.
I want to get my dog out to thecorrect spot before it has an
(36:19):
accident, but around thetimeframe that I think the
puppy's going to have to go, sothat I'm not out there forever
and I don't have to keep ongoing back out there all the
time and I'm going to give thepuppy or dog five minutes of
undistracted time to go to thebathroom and they typically will
(36:40):
.
If they're distracted theymight not because they're not
finding their spot, but if mydata is painting the picture,
hey, there's a pattern Everytime the puppy or dog eats it's
pooping within 45 minutes to anhour.
That allows me to set the dogup for success, get the dog
(37:06):
outside to the right potty placeso that I can have a successful
elimination and I can rewardthe dog.
Okay, I'm going to do the samething with water.
I just might offer water moretimes throughout the day than
(37:27):
food, but I'm not going to leavewater out.
Now, this is temporarily.
Once your puppy, your dog ispotty trained, you can do
whatever you want.
You can leave water out, youcan leave food out.
I don't like to free feed, buthey, if that's your thing, fine.
But when you're doing the pottytraining, there's no free
feeding.
When you're doing pottytraining, there's no leaving
(37:49):
water out.
And when you're doing pottytraining, there is no having the
puppy or dog out unsupervisedtraining.
There is no having the puppy ordog out unsupervised when I
give water or when the puppy ordog drinks the water.
I'm going to write that down inmy journal, just like with food.
Every time the puppy or dogdrinks, I'm writing down what
(38:10):
time it is.
Now, every time the puppy ordog pees, I'm also writing that
down in my journal, whether it'san accident or whether the
puppy or dog peed in the rightpotty spot.
But again, when I look at thatdata after I've collected it for
a long enough period of timeusually a week or two I should
(38:33):
start seeing a pattern.
I should start seeing a patternthat X amount of minutes after
my puppy or dog drinks water, itneeds to pee.
Now let's just, for example'ssake, say that my data that I've
(38:54):
collected has shown me thatafter my dog or puppy drinks,
within 20 to 30 minutes after itdrinks, it needs to pee.
Well, that information'spowerful.
I now get to set an alarm priorto that timeframe.
So if my puppy or dog, after itdrinks typically, is going to
(39:17):
need to pee within 20 to 30minutes, I'm going to set my
alarm for 20 minutes.
I might even set it a littlebit shorter, maybe 18 minutes.
I want to get the dog or puppyout to the correct potty spot
when it needs to go.
I don't want it to wait toolong and then the dog has an
(39:42):
accident.
So, knowing that information isvery powerful, this is critical
.
You may think oh, what a pain inthe butt I have to feed on a
schedule.
Oh, what a pain in the buttI've got to get water on a
schedule.
Oh, what a pain in the buttI've got to get water on a
schedule.
Oh, what a pain in the buttI've got to keep a journal.
Let me tell you something youdo that it's going to speed up
(40:04):
the potty training process by 10times.
You want to have success.
This is what you do.
And again, if you're struggling, there's only so much
information I can give in thepodcast.
You can get my book on Amazon,the book that I wrote, all
evidence-based, science-based,on potty training House Training
(40:25):
101, potty Training, unleashedby Will Banguro.
You can find that on Amazon.
All right, let's get back intothe podcast here on potty
training.
So number one rule is the puppyor dog is always in my eyesight,
with me, and when I can't watchthe puppy or dog, it's in the
(40:47):
crate.
Before I crate the dog, Ialways want to give the puppy or
dog an opportunity to relieveitself.
First, when the phone rings,when I need to use the restroom,
when somebody comes over to thehouse, it needs to talk to me
when situations arise that I'vegot to do something.
(41:10):
Even if it's for a very shortperiod of time 30 seconds, a
minute, two minutes I'm going tocreate the puppy if I have to
take my attention off of it.
Remember, we talked about ifthe phone rings an important
phone call and you are focusedon the call.
You're not paying attention tothe pup of your dog.
We talked about if a workercomes to the house and you've
(41:34):
got to give them your undividedattention.
You're not there, available towatch the pup of your dog Create
them.
Okay, maybe you're a mom or adad and you've got little kids
at home and you've got to reallyfocus on them and maybe during
that moment you can't watch thepup of your dog.
(41:56):
Get them in the crate we talkedabout.
If you start feeling yourselfgetting tired and you can't
watch them, if your eyes areclosing right, get them in the
crate.
Don't be afraid to use thecrate.
We want them out as much aspossible, but don't be afraid to
use the crate Now when we takethe puppy or dog outside.
(42:20):
I like to use, like I said, along leash, 10-foot leash.
I don't want it to get tight, Iwant them to be able to be a
little independent and move awayfrom me.
I'm being as inconspicuous asquiet, non-engaging.
I don't want the puppy or dogto think, hey, this is playtime,
(42:42):
so when we go out to go potty,we're not playing and I'm not
talking to them.
Okay, I'm just there like arobot, like a tree, quietly
following them around.
Now, if I've got them out thereand they've been sniffing and
they're not distracted, we'vebeen out there for five minutes
and the puppy or dog didn't go.
(43:03):
We go right back in the houseand they go right back into
their crate for 15 minutesbecause my data is telling me
man, this puppy, this dog's gotto go.
And I believe it, because thedata doesn't lie and for
whatever reason, we got thepuppy or dog out there, it
didn't go.
Well, bring it back in.
And for whatever reason we gotthe puppy or dog out there, it
didn't go.
(43:23):
Well, bring it back in, put itin the crate for 15 minutes, go
right back outside for five, andusually they'll go.
Now, some of you, when you comein after your puppy or dog has
peed or pooped.
They come in the house and justa short period of time goes by
maybe within five minutes evenand they go in the house.
(43:46):
They have an accident.
You're frustrated, you're likewhat the heck?
They just went to the bathroomoutside.
Listen, that also is data andthat gets put in your journal.
And maybe you've got a dog,maybe you've got a puppy that
doesn't empty its bowel, doesn'tempty its bladder in one shot.
(44:09):
Maybe you've got a dog thatpoops twice, poops three times
before it empties its bowels.
Maybe your dog's got to squattwo or three times before it
empties its bladder or lifts itsleg two or three times before
it empties its bladder or liftsits leg two or three times
before it empties its bladder.
Look, you're collecting thatdata.
(44:31):
If you find that you've got apuppy or a dog that goes to the
bathroom outside, you bring themright back in and they go in
the house.
That is data, that is feedback,that is information that tells
you don't go in right after thedog goes.
Wait another five minutes.
(44:53):
Give the pup of your dog anopportunity to completely empty
its bladder or completely emptyits bowels before you go in.
Okay, that's important becausethere are a lot of dogs like
that.
(45:15):
Now, when it comes to rewardingyour dog or your puppy with this
super high value food reward,it's important that your puppy
or dog understand why it'sgetting the food reward.
Does your puppy or dog connectthe dots cognitively that, hey,
the reason it's getting thatfood reward is because it just
(45:35):
went to the bathroom in thecorrect spot?
You know a lot of us are usingfood in training and the dogs
love the food and perhaps theoverall training experience is
more positive.
But a lot of dogs are notconnecting the dots that the
reason they're getting the foodis because of a specific
behavior and the reason thathappens, if it happens, is
(45:59):
because of timing.
One of the most importantthings in training dogs is your
timing.
Let me say that again One ofthe most important things in
training your dogs is yourtiming.
You literally have about one totwo seconds, if that, to get the
food in your puppy, your dog'smouth at the exact moment they
(46:22):
engage in the behavior you wantto reward, or they will not
connect the dots.
What do I mean by that?
If I ask the dog to sit and thedog sits, it's butt on the
ground and five seconds later Igive it a food reward.
It is highly debatable whetheror not that dog associates the
(46:44):
fact that it got that foodreward because it sat, because
that five-second window might betoo long and we might not be
able to get food in our puppy ordog's mouth fast enough for
them to be able to connect thedots mouth fast enough for them
(47:10):
to be able to connect the dots.
So professional trainers usewhat we call a marker system in
training and we create what'scalled a reward marker.
Now, a marker is something thatmarks a behavior and lets the
puppy or dog know that behavioris getting a food reward.
Okay, some trainers condition aword to mean the dog's getting
(47:36):
food.
Some trainers use what's calleda clicker to condition to the
dog that when they hear theclicker they're going to get
food, to condition to the dogthat when they hear the clicker
they're going to get food.
Initially, the marker whetherit be using a clicker in
training or whether it be usinga word to mark a behavior
initially, those markers have novalue, they have no meaning to
the dog.
(47:57):
You know, if I go to the storeand I pick up a clicker, there's
no magic.
I can't just bring it home andstart clicking and all of a
sudden the dog's doing wonderfulthings.
No, the way that markers work.
First you have to condition andpair whatever marker that
you're using to mark a behaviorwith the food reward over and
(48:18):
over and over again.
And the way it works.
Let's say I've got 30 pieces ofcheese little pieces of cheese
and I've got a clicker.
I go click treat, give the dogthe treat right after I click as
soon as the dog eats it.
I'm going to click again, giveanother treat right away.
As soon as the dog finishesthat treat, click, give another
treat right away.
I'm going to click treat, clicktreat, click treat, click treat
(48:43):
over and over, maybe about 30times in a row.
And I'm going to do that formaybe two, three, four days in a
row and then, after I've donethat conditioning where there's
been a lot of repetition, clicktreat, click treat, click treat.
I'm going to test it.
Maybe on day five I pull out myclicker when my dog's not
(49:07):
noticing.
Now my dog's got to be awake.
My dog's got to be in closeproximity where it can hear.
The clicker Doesn't have to belooking at me, matter of fact, I
prefer.
If it's not looking at me.
I give this random click andwhat I'm looking for?
Does the dog or puppy comerunning to me looking for the
high-value food reward?
(49:28):
Because if the dog or puppy isproperly conditioned that they
understand click means treat.
When they hear that clickerthey're going to come running to
me.
Okay, if they don't, maybe Ineed to spend more time
conditioning that clicker.
Click treat, click treat, click, treat more.
Maybe that timing has to bebetter.
(49:51):
Maybe I'm not getting the treatto the dog fast enough after I
click.
Now, once you've got your markerconditioned whether it's using
the word yes and pairing thatwith a treat, whether it's a
click and a treat Remember thereare a couple of rules Never
click, never use your markerwithout giving the food reward.
(50:15):
A click or any mark that yougive is a promise to pay.
You have to give food or don'tuse the marker.
Promise to pay, you have togive food or don't use the
marker.
Every time you mark, every timeyou click, you reward.
That's a given, that's a rule.
(50:35):
Okay, now the beauty of havinga marker and being able to have
conditioned a reward marker.
Once you have that rewardmarker conditioned, now you
don't have the problem you hadwith timing.
Why, even if I tell a dog tosit and that dog is a football
(50:56):
field away from me, as soon asthat rear end hits the ground I
can click the clicker and thedog can hear that click sound
right when its butt hits theground.
And when the dog hears theclicker and the dog can hear
that click sound right when itsbutt hits the ground.
And when the dog hears theclick sound, that's a signal.
It's a marker that lets the dogknow hey, you're getting food,
so your timing's not off.
(51:17):
Now you can't take 20 minutesfrom the time you click to
getting the food in the dog'smouth, but it buys you time.
That marker, that click, is abridge to the food.
Does that make sense?
Now, this is not a podcast onclicker training.
It's not a podcast on markertraining.
(51:37):
If you aren't that familiarwith using markers, it's so
important to use markers.
And again, a clicker is just atype of marker.
If you're not familiar withmarker training or clicker
training, please go to mywebsite at dogbehavioristcom.
Go to the menu, click on whereit says articles, find the
(51:58):
article on clicker training, andthat will talk all about
clicker training, markertraining.
And at the bottom of thatarticle there's also an
hour-long podcast where I talkin depth about clicker training,
about marker training.
All right, so let's assumewe've conditioned our marker.
I'm going to assume we used aclicker.
(52:19):
You don't have to, but I'mgoing to assume we used the
clicker.
My dog or my puppy nowunderstands that when I click
that clicker it gets a treat.
Okay, that helps me to have avery clear black and white cause
and effect associationcommunication with that puppy or
(52:40):
dog when I'm trying to pottytrain dog, when I'm trying to
potty train Now don't reward thepuppy or dog when it's in the
act of going to the bathroom.
So let's say we get our puppy orour dog outside to the potty
spot, we want it to go.
The dog begins to squat, beginsto pee, pee and you click.
(53:04):
Guess what happens?
The dog gets excited because itwants the food.
It stops peeing and comes toyou for food.
What didn't happen?
It did not empty its bladderbecause you clicked while it was
peeing.
So when your dog is going tothe bathroom in the right place
(53:30):
when it's peeing, you wait untilthat last drop.
Soon as your puppy or dog comesup from the squat.
That's when you want to clickand reward.
Same thing when they're pooping.
Don't click and reward whilethey're in the middle of pooping
.
Wait till they come up whenthey finished Right.
Then, at that last moment, asthey come up from the squat,
(53:52):
click and reward the dog.
That's when you want, so you'renot interrupting them.
Okay, very important Makingsure you've got your food
rewards, making sure you've gotyour treat pouch.
Now let's talk about accidents,because accidents have happened
(54:22):
and they might continue tohappen, and that's okay.
Remember, we are feeding on aschedule, giving water on a
schedule.
We're keeping a journal.
We are writing down when thepuppy or dog eats, when the
puppy or dog drinks, when thepuppy or dog pees, when the
puppy or dog poops.
(54:43):
That data is helping usunderstand how long after the
puppy or dog eats does it poop,how long after the puppy or dog
drinks does it pee.
That data helps us to predictwhen it eats, when it drinks,
when we need to get the puppy ordog outside to have more
(55:03):
successes.
Again, the goal is to have lessaccidents, more success.
Granted, we'd love to have noaccidents and we're going to get
there, but that might take alittle bit of time If your puppy
or dog has an accident, do notpunish the dog.
(55:26):
Taking your dog and rubbing itsnose in its mess is a myth.
That will do nothing to helpyour dog understand where it
should go to the bathroom.
Especially remember we talkedabout timing a bathroom.
(55:48):
Especially remember we talkedabout timing.
Especially if you're usingcorrections or punishment after
the fact, if you didn't catchthe dog or puppy in the act,
your punishment.
They have no understandingwhatsoever.
All you're doing is creatinganxiety and stress in that
location, which anxiety andstress doesn't help any animal
(56:08):
learn.
It makes learning moredifficult.
Secondly, when you usecorrections and punishment with
your puppy or dog, you areruining that trust and that bond
and the relationship betweenyou and your dog, you and your
puppy.
All the science, all theresearch, all the evidence
(56:29):
that's out there has shownpunishment corrections are
unnecessary and in the long runthey make it worse.
You may temporarily suppressoutward behavior, but again,
you're not teaching the puppy ordog where to go to the bathroom
, what we want it to do andthat's what we need to be doing.
(56:54):
Okay, all right, but let's talkabout if there's an accident.
What do you do If you noticeyour puppy or dog having an
accident very calmly, withoutgetting upset.
Get them outside, go throughthe process we've been talking
about right, when they're notdistracted and they start
(57:15):
sniffing around, give them thefive minutes we talked about to
go to the bathroom.
If they go, as soon as theyfinish, give your click and
reward.
So you mark and reward.
Then you would go in the house,I would crate the puppy and
then I would begin the cleanupprocess.
Now let's talk about thecleanup process Both from the
(57:41):
perspective of what to do whenyou see that there's an accident
, or what do you do about allthe accidents that have happened
in the past.
Dogs tend to want to go back towhere they have peed or pooped
before and they use their nose,their sense of smell, to go back
there.
Back there, if the house smellslike pee and poop, they're pee
(58:09):
and poop Chances are they'regoing to want to go back to
those locations.
I'm assuming there have beenaccidents.
Now a lot of people useproducts that are out there that
get rid of the smell where youand I as a human can't smell it,
but the dog still can.
There are not a lot of greatproducts on the market that
(58:30):
actually get rid of that scentat the dog's level.
I mean folks, think about it.
A dog can smell a drop of blooda mile away.
It's incredible, away it'sincredible.
Their sense of smell isunbelievable.
One of the best products and Idon't get any money for pitching
(58:55):
this product, but one of thebest products on the market.
What I recommend to everybodyfor cleaning up their dog's
accidents is a product calledS-C-O-E-10-X.
S like Sam, c, like Cat O, likeOcean E, like Edward.
The number one, the number zero, the letter Xcom
(59:19):
S-C-O-E-10-Xcom.
Go to their website.
They've got lots of informationthere.
Read the instructions, watchthe videos.
When you use SCOE 10x, exactlythe way they tell you to, you
will get rid of the smell wherethe dog can't smell the urine
(59:43):
and the feces.
Therefore, they're not goingback to places, they've gone in
the house.
You know, I want you to thinkabout if they can smell their
urine or feces.
It's as if we're luring andtelling them to go to the
bathroom in that spot.
So it's critical.
Cleanup is critical.
(01:00:04):
Now, when you do your initialcleanup, you're going to want to
have a blacklight when I cometo people's homes and I pull out
my blacklight and I startlooking around for where there's
urine, where there have beenaccidents, where they've been
peeing, where they've beenpooping.
It's much worse than they everimagined.
Where they've been pooping it'smuch worse than they ever
(01:00:26):
imagined.
Now, just know that chances areyou're going to be disgusted.
You're going to get thatblacklight.
But any areas in the house thatare lighting up with the
blacklight, that means that itsmells.
Use the SCOE 10X, clean it up.
Once you've cleaned it up,you've got to go back with your
(01:00:47):
blacklight.
Make sure it doesn't light upanymore, because if it lights up
, it still smells.
So once you've gone through thewhole house with the blacklight
, you've cleaned up everything.
Nothing is lighting up anymore.
Everything's clean.
What you need to do from thatpoint on until you're done with
(01:01:10):
potty training every nightbefore you go to bed, you need
to go through the house, turnthe lights off, do an inspection
of the entire house with thatblack light.
Why do I say to do that?
Well, guess what If everythingwas cleaned up and all of a
sudden, today's Monday and onThursday, I do an inspection of
(01:01:32):
the house before I go to bed andsomething lit up?
The dog had an accident and Ididn't see it.
What's my number one rule?
Supervise or crate.
My dog is in my eyesight at alltimes and when I can't watch my
(01:01:52):
dog, I crated my dog, see ifI'm having accidents, if that's
my goal, if my goal is to keepthe dog or puppy in my eyesight
when I can't watch it, crate itand I feel like I think like I'm
doing a really good job doingthat.
Yet in the evening time when Iinspect, things are lighting up
and I'm saying, oh my God, mydog had an accident.
(01:02:14):
That lets me know I need to doa better job of either crate or
keeping my eye on the puppy ordog.
Okay, so cleanup is critical,really, really important and, as
I was saying just a littlewhile ago, all the science, all
(01:02:37):
the evidence shows us thatpunishment anything, what's
punishment?
Anything?
Punishment is a correction,guys.
Correction is just a nice wordfor punishment Anything
unpleasant.
Don't yell at the pup of yourdog.
Don't hit the pup of your dog,don't scold them, just calmly,
(01:02:57):
quietly, get them outside to thecorrect spot.
After they've gone, come in,crate them, clean it up.
I don't want your puppy or dogwatching you clean up the mess.
Okay, that's just one thing Idon't want.
I don't want them watching youclean up the mess.
I don't want them thinking thatyou are interested or find that
(01:03:21):
valuable.
Okay, all right.
The other thing that I want totalk about is doggy doors.
Okay, and we talked about thecrate.
I think that a doggy door isthe greatest invention that ever
(01:03:41):
occurred and I think it can beincredibly beneficial to help
you with potty training.
Now, when I'm initially pottytraining a puppy or dog, I don't
let them use the dog door.
I first want to teach themwhere I want them to go before
(01:04:02):
we start using the doggy doorand in the beginning, I'm not
just expecting them to go usethe doggy door on their own.
The way that I do it rememberthat crate that we were talking
about getting.
I get a wire crate and I get adouble door wire crate, so a
(01:04:24):
wire crate that has two doors onit.
I remove one of the doorscompletely from the wire crate,
which leaves the opening Right.
I take that opening where thatdoor was removed and I push that
up against the wall where thedog door is, so I can put the
(01:04:45):
puppy or dog in the crate when Iclose the door.
Remember there's two doors.
When I close the one door, thepuppy or dog's in the crate.
It has the ability to gothrough the dog door and go
outside, and if it comes back inthrough the dog door and comes
back into the house, it'srestricted to the kennel.
(01:05:06):
I love using this when.
When I go to bed at night, thisis my setup, and when I have to
leave the house and there'snobody there to watch the puppy
or dog, that is my setup.
Yes, I've got to teach them howto use the dog door, but the
(01:05:29):
beautiful thing about a dog door, the beautiful thing about a
two-door dog crate I can put thepuppy or dog in the crate.
They have the ability to go outthrough the dog door, go
outside and relieve themselves.
Then they have the ability tocome back in.
They can't make any messes orhave any accidents in the house,
can they?
Because they're in the crate.
I love dog doors.
(01:05:52):
I love crates.
Two-door crates make this justall the more successful.
Okay, so I highly recommend youget a double door dog crate.
Highly recommend if you can geta dog door and start doing that
, because once your puppy, onceyour dog has been conditioned
(01:06:19):
which means that we're trying tocreate a habit of going to the
bathroom outside, wherewonderful, rewarding things
happen when you do.
Okay.
We're trying to maximize oursuccesses by being able to
predict when the puppy or dogneeds to urinate or defecate,
(01:06:41):
because we're keeping thatjournal.
We're feeding on a schedule,we're giving water on a schedule
.
We know because of our datapretty much after the dog drinks
when it's going to have to pee,after the puppy or dog eats
when it has to poop.
These are all things that aresetting us up for success.
(01:07:04):
Now, some of you have somespecial needs.
Maybe you've got an older dogthat needs to be potty training.
Everything that I've told youhere holds true for the older
dog.
However, I've got an entiresection devoted to potty
training the older dog, and youcan find that in my book House
(01:07:27):
Training 101, potty Training,unleashed by Will Bangura.
You can find that on Amazon.
Maybe you've got a dog that.
Maybe you live in an apartment.
Maybe you've got a littleteacup dog and you want to train
it to exclusively use pottypads or a litter box.
(01:07:47):
You're training it to go to thebathroom in the house but not
on the floors, right?
I've got an entire section inmy book House Training 101,
potty Training, unleashed byWill Bangura.
You can get that on Amazon canget that on Amazon, okay.
So, where this podcast can giveyou a lot of great information,
(01:08:17):
a lot of tips to have a lot ofsuccess when it comes to potty
training your dogs or your puppy.
There's a lot more informationthat I'm able to cover in the
book.
So if you're really struggling,check out that book, because
you might get a lot of benefitfrom that as well.
Also, let your friends andfamily know about it.
Well, that music means we arejust about out of time.
(01:08:39):
I hope this information's beenhelpful.
I hope this helps you if you'vebeen frustrated with a puppy, or
if you've been frustrated witha puppy or if you've been
frustrated with a dog that wantsto use your house as a toilet.
It doesn't have to be that way.
It's important for you to havepatience.
It's important to have empathy.
Very important that you beconsistent, that your timing is
(01:08:59):
good.
Remember, supervise or confine.
Try to do this with a journal.
It'll make life a lot easierwhen you can predict when your
puppy or dog needs to go to thebathroom.
Thanks for listening everybody.
Please hit that subscribebutton, hit that like button.
If you're listening to thepodcast and you love what we do
(01:09:20):
Give us a five-star review.
Let your friends and familyknow all about dog training
today.
Until next time, happy training.
I'm out of here.
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