Episode Transcript
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Jonty (00:06):
Bondi.
Welcome to exploring Tim Este,the podcast that talks about
Southeast Asia's best kepttravel secret.
I'm your host Jte, and I'llshare firsthand insights, expert
interviews and practical traveltips.
Whether you're a traveler, acultural lover, or just curious
about places rarely covered inthe mainstream.
You're in the right place.
Let's explore two more.
Less day.
(00:31):
Today's episode is about hikingon Aru Island.
This is the area of TimorLester, which I did the most
hiking of, other than aroundDili.
That's because it's relativelyeasy to get to from Dili so you
can catch the ferry or flyover,and there are lots of hiking
opportunities around the island.
I've visited the island I thinknine times in my year in Timor,
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and so I managed to get to mostplaces.
There are not a lot of roads onat.
So walking is the best way toexplore this beautiful island.
Hiking on Aru Island is similarto hiking elsewhere in Timor.
It's hot, it's humid, it'ssteep, and you can easily get
lost if you're not necessarilyfollowing the correct route.
So if you check out the notesfor this episode on the podcast,
(01:14):
there are a series of links.
The key one is on the hikingsection of the exploring
timor.com website, and there isa Google map on there where I've
included the route for all thehikes I did on Aru Island.
If you click on the route, it'llgive you more information,
photographs, and a link to anall trails GPS route.
So you can use that to helpnavigate when you're exploring.
(01:35):
A lot of these I found throughtrial and error, through getting
lost.
So I had that experience.
You don't necessarily need to.
So you can use those roots tohelp you find your way around
this beautiful place.
Let's start with the, probablythe best known hike on the
island, which is also thehardest hike on the island.
And I wouldn't say necessarilyit was my favorite, but I was
glad that I did it.
And this is the summit of MannaCoco.
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So Manco is the highest point onthe island.
It's 995 meters above sea level,and it involves quite a steep
and tough climb to the summit.
And then a probably even morechallenging descent'cause it is
quite slippery and easy to loseyour grip.
Now I highly recommend that youuse a local guide to do this
hike that can be organizedthrough your accommodation.
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There a few reasons for this.
One is it is a sacred area, andthis is one of the requirements
of the communities that a guideaccompanies you on this hike.
Second reason is safety.
It's, even though I have markedout the GPS and there are some
signs that U-S-A-I-D installed afew years ago, it is very easy
to get lost on this hike.
There are sections of shoulderheight, grass to go through.
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So if you don't know whereyou're going, it's very easy to
get lost.
And there are quite large dropoffs and exposure.
I have heard multiple stories ofpeople who have gone up by
themselves.
And had a very scary experiencebecause there are some quite
steep drop offs and areas ofexposure and risk and it is easy
to get lost.
Relatively recently, a guy wentup there by himself.
(03:01):
He didn't tell anybody and heslipped and fell and was in a
pretty difficult situation.
He wasn't clear how he was getout of it.
He took inspiration from somelocal goats.
There a lot of goats on islandand a goats a very good at.
Going along very steep rockfaces.
He's Managed to follow the goatsto an area where he could pull
himself onto the path and thenget down.
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But it was a pretty near missand I've heard other people
who've got lost and spent hoursand hours up there.
So strongly recommend a guidefrom a safety perspective.
And also it is not thatexpensive and you're giving
money back into the localcommunity.
At Island is one of the poorerplaces in two Molesto, which is
a very poor country.
Three good reasons to get aguide for doing this hike.
But having said that is a veryinteresting hike.
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So particularly when you'regetting towards the summit, it's
an important bird area andyou'll certainly hear the bird
life.
It's very lush rainforesttowards the summit and the views
from the summit, as you imagineare pretty impressive.
So it is a good day hike.
If you are up for the challengeand you go prepared with a guide
and take lots and lots of water,like you're looking at 900
meters of a cent and then 900meters of descent.
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So that's quite a decent effortin the heat.
So that's Manco.
So not my favorite, but it isquite an interesting hike to do.
One which I'd probably recommendmore to most people is the hike
from Villa to McKee, which I didtalk about briefly in my 10 Best
Hikes in two more Less Daypodcast a little while ago.
This is a lot morestraightforward.
Forward.
You can use a local guide, whichis helpful and they can explain
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a little bit about what you'reseeing and doing around
villages, but you could probablyalso do it by yourself.
Villa is the main town on Oo.
You can get there by a tuk fromBeloit, which is where most
people stay.
It takes about 20 minutes.
I wouldn't recommend walking theroad between Beloit and Villa
'cause I've done that.
A couple of times and it is veryboring and flat and there's not
(04:50):
a lot of interest and it's justa bit of a slog.
It's much better to get a took,took down to villa.
And from there it's a loop, soyou can either start along the
coast or finish along the coast.
The coastal section is tidal, soyou need to go there at low tide
to bear that in mind when you'rethinking which way around to do
it.
One section is along the coast,a little bit scrambling
required.
Nice scenery.
There's a nice beach towards thevilla end.
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And then you can come back on.
The other part of the loop isthe go inland and you go up and
over.
You go past the Lady Mary Caveand another big statue with
Virgin Mary.
And there are great views of thecoast.
And you'll go down to McKee,which is a beautiful coastal
village which mainly survives onfishing.
And there is.
A statue of St.
Peter, which is the patron saintof fishermen.
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And there's also a woman'scollective there, which is a
great place to pick up arts andhandicrafts.
So the village of McKee Loop,it's about 10 K.
You're probably looking at halfa day.
That's a really good walk to doon Roo Island.
Possibly the most popular walkto do in Roo though is from Belo
across to the West coast.
Primarily people will go to aDiara Mario's Place has got
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accommodation there, but I'dalso recommend going to Cru,
which is about another hour'swalk, which is even more
beautiful than a Dara.
They're both beautiful places,but a Dara has a rocky beach and
at Crew has a beautiful sandybeach, and there's a jockey's
place there, which is a greatplace to stay.
This is Navigationally, probablyone of the easiest hikes on the
island.
From Beloit, if you go pastBarry's place at the northern
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end of the beach and you takethe road off to the left, that's
the main road.
It may not look like a mainroad.
It's pretty rough.
I wouldn't want to drive avehicle over it'cause you'd
probably break the vehicle.
But from a hiking perspective,it's okay.
And you basically just keepgoing up and up along that road
and you hit.
The saddle area and then comedown onto the other side.
They should pop out by thevillage of Arlo, which is quite
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a pleasant place to go for andexplore.
And then that's not far from thecoast.
You drop down onto the beach andthen turn left and you can walk
along to a dro and continuealong to at Crew.
If it is high Tide, there is ahigh tide route between a Dara
and Atcr.
but you wanna follow the GPSmaps that I've provided?
'cause I've tried it in the pastand got lost, or I got a bit.
(06:57):
SN could, trying to go along thecoast at high tide.
So yeah, you do need to try andfind the inland track if that's
the case.
Now this is, say it's relativelystraightforward.
A lot of people do it.
They maybe take their gear withthem over to stay and Dara or at
a crew, and then they canorganize a boat back from their
background to Belo rather thanwalking back.
I would say it's not the mostinteresting walk on the island.
(07:18):
Most of the way you're walkingon a road.
It does offer some very niceviews, but very little shade, so
you wanna be starting early.
As with any hiking in TimorLester, I'd always recommend
carrying an umbrella andactually, particularly on Aro
Island, because a number of thehikes are very limited shade.
And when you're out in the sunfor hours it's pretty
exhausting.
So a bit of shade from anumbrella is really beneficial,
(07:39):
that's a relativelystraightforward and popular hike
to do.
You're looking at probably.
Three to four hours, dependingif you go into a Dara or at
Crew.
Now another really nice walk,which is straightforward.
It's on a road, but it's flat,so it's a bit easier to do than
going over to the west coast asif you walk from bikini up to a
crema.
And back.
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So Bikini is north of Beloit.
That's pretty much road walkingall the way.
It's not that exciting.
There are infrequent um, I wouldsay buses, but they're not,
they're basically trucks andpeople sit on the back of the
truck.
It's the local kind of transporton the island, but you can get a
truck from Beloit, which willtake you up to bikini and then
start walking from Bikini, andthen from bikini going up to a
(08:22):
crema.
You're just heading along thecoast.
Line.
It is a road, but it's more of atrack in many places.
There's no traffic and it's veryquiet and there's a number of
very attractive beaches alongthe way.
You're in the sun the wholetime, depending on what time of
day you do it.
So you need to be careful aroundsun protection.
But when you get to a crema,that is a, one of the, there's
many nice villages on.
(08:43):
Island.
But a cremo is one of thenicest, it's the only place
really with a white sand beach.
And it has a camping spot forthose who are interesting in
spending a bit more time upthere.
So that's a beautiful place tovisit or spend the night and
then just come back the way youcan.
If you look at my hiking map,there are a few hikes I did
around from Beloit heading tovilla and up into the hills.
(09:04):
Those are pretty off the beachand track.
Those are really for experiencedhikers.
The middle of the island has gotbasically a spine.
So those heights go up tobasically the spine of the
island.
You get a fantastic views fromthere and then head back down
again to the coast.
But the the tracks are not thatobvious to, to follow as I found
out a few times.
Now the final hike on the islandis to walk around the entire
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island.
Now this is the first hike Iactually did here.
It was the first big hike I didin Timor-Leste.
And it took five days.
You could probably do it inthree days.
If you pushed yourself the fivedays allow me a bit more time to
spend in the villages and withthe local communities.
And also, I did the hike in themiddle of the wet season, which
I would not recommend because itwas torrential rain every
afternoon.
(09:46):
So it was useful for me to dothe shorter days.
So that I could get toaccommodation before lunchtime,
and then I could sit out therain in the afternoons.
And on this hike I stayed inhomes stays.
So pretty much all the villagesaround Aru, there will be homes
stays available.
The only real accommodation isin Beloit, and there is one
(10:07):
place in Villa that you can alsostay.
So apart from that, you need tobe in homes, stays these can be
pretty basic.
I've visited some interestingcountries.
I've been to Papua New Guinea.
I've been to Ethiopia.
And the home stays in NaroIsland, were amongst the most
basic that I've stayed anywhere.
So again, one really foradventure travelers who are
quite happy with hole in theground toilets and a bucket
(10:29):
shower and limited food options.
You're basically be eating whatthe locals eat.
So that's probably some rice andvegetables, but it was an
amazing experience.
You're visiting parts of.
Tim Oreste where very few otherpeople will visit, but it is a
relatively straightforward thingto do.
Now, I'd recommend organizing itthrough the.
Tourism website so they can thenconnect you with a local guide.
(10:53):
Now you probably could, I didmeet somebody who'd managed to
do it by themselves, but you doneed to be quite confident
around asking for directions andlooking at route maps.
It's not the moststraightforward in sections,
particularly around the northernend of the island.
I did it with a local guide andthat was a great experience and
it really helped when I wasstaying at home stays'cause I
had somebody could helptranslate'cause there's not a
(11:13):
lot of English on the island.
And again, you're giving moneyback to the local community.
So I'd strongly recommend ifyou're interested in that kind
of adventure, that you organizeit through the um, at tourism
website and they can hook you upwith somebody appropriate.
So that's giving you a bit of aflavor for the hiking you can do
in Roo Island.
If you check out the snorkelingand diving episode that talks
about the underwater activitiesyou can do in the island.
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And I've also got a standaloneepisode that talks about more
land-based things that you cando, which don't involve hiking
for hours around the island.
Thank you so much for
listening to exploring Timor
Less Day.
If you've enjoyed today'sepisode, please consider leaving
a rating or review.
It really helps more peoplediscover the show.
If you have any questions orfeedback, I'd love to hear from
(11:55):
you.
Drop me an email at exploringTimor lessDay@gmail.com.
Until next time, or Bodo ADEs.