Episode Transcript
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Kinetra Stewart (00:03):
Welcome back to
Hair, what I'm Saying.
Today.
I want to chat about somethingthat gets a lot of heat in the
natural hair community,especially among black women,
and that's silicones.
If you've ever peeked at yourshampoo or conditioner
ingredients and seen words likedimethicone or cyclomethicone,
maybe you frowned and thought ohno, ma'am, silicones, I'm
(00:26):
staying away from that.
But what if I told yousilicones aren't the enemy.
In fact, when used right, theycan be your hair's best friend.
So let's break down the truthbehind silicones, why they get
so much backlash and how you canactually use them to level up
your curls safely and smartly.
(00:47):
Welcome back to another episodeof Hair, what I'm Saying.
Let's get into this topic of somuch controversy First.
People think silicones causebuildup, which leads to
insufferable strands and maketheir hair greasy or way down.
Also, there's a big wave ofclean beauty and no silicone
(01:07):
hype, where people avoidanything that sounds synthetic.
Plus, some silicones are notwater soluble, so they can stay
stuck on your hair if not washedout properly.
And for us black women with ourunique curl textures and hair
porosity, I often find heavysilicones uncomfortable or
(01:28):
damaging if misused.
So the fear is real.
But here's the thing Not allsilicones are created equal and
how you use them matters a lot.
So what are silicones really?
Let's break it down a littlebit.
No scary science, just regularold, degular, old terminology.
(01:53):
Silicones are synthetic polymersmade mostly from silicon,
oxygen, carbon and hydrogen.
They're used in hair carebecause they can coat hair shaft
, which locks in moisture, andprotect your hair from damage.
It adds shine, smoothness, evenseals the cuticle, especially
for my high porosity girls.
It provides slip, so detanglingis easier and curls don't get
(02:14):
frizzy.
Two common ones you will findin my dewy curl shampoo are
dimethicone and cyclomethicone,and even though they're both
silicones, they serve completelydifferent purposes.
Dimethicone, it's a heaviersilicone that creates, like this
, protective barrier on the hair, helping reduce moisture loss
(02:34):
and smooth rough strands.
Cyclomethicone is lighter andvolatile.
It evaporates quickly, givingslip and spreadability without
all the buildup.
So here's why having them bothin the same bottle is actually
genius and done intentionally.
If you only had dimethicone, itcould feel heavy or uneven in
(02:55):
spots because it's so thick soit wouldn't be able to spread
consistently throughout the hairstrands.
Cyclomethicone steps in,spreading that dimethicone
evenly over every strand.
Then it evaporates, leavingjust the perfect lightweight
layer of protection behind.
This is the balance that letsyour curls get instant slip and
(03:21):
long-term frizz control all inone step.
So let's talk about howsilicones can actually be your
best friend, and this is where Iwant to change the conversation
, because silicones can beamazing for curls if you use
them correctly.
I believe in the past they werejust used incorrectly and, in
result, that's how they gottheir bad rep, and that's pretty
(03:42):
much with anything you know.
We want to talk about if aningredient is actually bad or
good before we just cast it out,and that's pretty much with
anything you know.
We want to talk about if aningredient is actually bad or
good before we just cast it out,and that's the reason why I
wanted to create this episode toclear up any you know confusion
out there when it comes tothese specific ingredients that
are intentionally placed inthese hair products that will
really help your hair.
(04:02):
So if your curls are dry ordamaged, silicones can lock in
the moisture your hairdesperately needs, and that
comes from dimethicone.
They smooth the cuticle, reduceand frizz and breakage, and
y'all know how important that isfor maintaining curl definition
.
They also create a protectiveshield from environmental damage
(04:24):
Heat styling especially for mygirls who love to heat style.
You need silicone in yourproduct and even hard water.
I live in Texas.
Let me tell you, the water herewill dry you up into a prune
baby.
Let me tell you, I can't standthis water.
We had to invest into a softwater system because the water
(04:46):
here is so hard.
But if you're not able to get ahard water system, you
definitely want to purchaseproducts that can break down or
create a protective barrier overyour skin and your hair so that
it don't damage your hair inthe long run.
So when I added silicones intomy formula, it was intentional,
(05:07):
but please understand that thereis no product out here that's a
one size fits all.
I'm not saying silicones arefor you.
That's why I created thisepisode to educate you on what
silicones are and the benefitsthat it serves for your hair.
And by the end of this episodeyou're going to know if
silicones are for you or not.
And I just wanted to clear upthe misinformation that's
(05:30):
spreaded throughout the naturalhair community that's actually
preventing us from reaching ourhair goals.
It's hurting us more than it ishelping us.
I just know from my experienceand based on my clients,
concerns behind the chair andwhat I was able to interpret
based on taking care of theirhair.
I knew silicones could be verybeneficial for people who need
(05:56):
it.
I know for sure for me, basedon my lifestyle and what I like
to do with my hair.
After implementing siliconesinto my hair product regimen or
my natural hair care regimen, mycurls felt softer, smoother and
definitely more hydrated.
Detangling became way easier,along with less breakage.
My hair had a healthy shinethat didn't feel oily or weighed
(06:19):
down, and that's the bad repthat silicones are known for
getting is weighing your hairdown.
But let's talk about the otherside, how silicones do get
misused and why they have gainedtheir bad rep.
So using heavy siliconeproducts without a proper
cleansing routine leads tobuildup, and this is how they
(06:42):
got their bad rep Because, likeI explained earlier in the
podcast dimethicone, thatparticular silicone is a heavy
coating ingredient.
So if you're not using theproper cleansing products mixed
in with your hair care regimenthat has silicones, you're going
to get buildup.
Also, washing your hair withshampoos that aren't designed to
(07:07):
remove non-water solublesilicones means they stack up on
the hair shaft, so there arewater soluble silicones and then
you have non-water solidsoluble silicones.
And if you are using a siliconethat is non-water soluble, then
that causes buildup.
Using silicones on hair that'salready oily or not porous
(07:30):
enough can make it feel heavyand greasy.
Layering too manysilicone-based products without
giving hair brace can lead todullness and dryness underneath
that barrier.
Everything is all about balancewhen it comes to hair care.
Like anything in life, youcan't have too much of one thing
(07:52):
and not enough of the other.
You have to balance in order toget the benefits of whatever it
is that you are investing in.
It's no different from how, forme, example, for three months
I'll wear my hair curly ortextured in some sort of
textured state, and then for awhole month I stretch my hair
(08:14):
with a flat iron or just maybeeven a blow dryer, and then wear
more of a blown out styleinstead of a silk press.
Look, and people ask meconstantly like how are you able
to get your silk press to last?
How does your hair staystretched over so much time
without the humidity you know,interrupting it and causing it
(08:34):
to revert back?
This is why because Iintentionally balance my hair
care regimen Also, I'm veryconscious of the ingredients of
those products that I am puttingin my hair, of the ingredients
of those products that I amputting in my hair.
And when you become intentionaland balanced about your hair
care, you would be surprised howthis journey, you know, with
(08:56):
your natural hair, can becomereally nourishing instead of
like a burden.
So it's not the siliconesthemselves, it's how they're
used and what they are pairedwith.
So let's talk about how to usesilicones properly for natural
hair.
Here's what I recommend to keepsilicones working for you and
(09:18):
not against you.
Know your silicones.
I know this may be asking for alot, but if you educate educate
yourself now you don't have toworry about this in the long run
, because your natural hairjourney is going to be this
never-ending cycle of I don'tknow what to do with my natural
(09:39):
hair if you don't becomeeducated in the ingredients and
how they will work for you oragainst you, depending on your
hair care regimen.
It's no different from whatevercareer you invested in.
In the beginning, it probablyfelt like a lot.
It felt overwhelming.
You probably even wondered ifyou would ever get to the other
(10:00):
side of accomplishing this goalthat you have set for yourself.
But you did, because youinvested the time and education
in order to reach that goal thatyou set for yourself, and you
may have to do that with yournatural hair.
So, when knowing your silicones, you want to use water soluble
(10:22):
or volatile silicones likecyclomethicone for lighter
protection.
Dimethicone is heavier, heavier, so don't overload it.
But I have both in my shampoobecause they balance each other
out.
Because I need that dimethicone, which is the heavier silicone,
in my product so that it cancoat those hair strands to
(10:44):
prevent that frizz and also, ifyou have high porosity hair
strands, it can seal the cuticle.
So I need that dimethicone inmy hair product and then I need
the cyclomethicone for thelighter protection, to break
down that dimethicone in orderto balance it out so it don't
feel heavy and create so muchbuildup.
(11:07):
You want to also choosecleansing products wisely.
You want a shampoo that canremove buildup without stripping
natural oils.
I have a shampoo that will beon pre-sale order soon, called
the Soul Cleanser, and that'swhat it does.
In the meantime, I highlyrecommend the Biolodge
Clarifying Shampoo.
It removes buildup withoutstripping any of your natural
(11:34):
oils.
So make sure that you'rechoosing your cleansing products
wisely.
You want to incorporate aclarifying shampoo whenever you
are using products that havesilicone in them.
Also, don't overdo it.
Use silicone containingconditioners or styling products
in moderation.
A little goes a long way.
(11:55):
So, for example, I justshampooed and conditioned my
hair with my Dewey curls shampoo, with my Dewey curls hairline
rather.
So the next time I shampoo myhair I'm not going to use it,
I'm going to go back to.
If I go back and forth I mightgo back to, to wrecking, and if
I don't do wrecking then I'mgonna go to bi-lodge.
(12:16):
But you see how I'm switchingit up.
I know not to go back to backwith my silicone based products
because I don't want to causebuild up over a long period of
time.
But I do wash my hair weekly.
So if I want to follow up againwith my dewy hair care line,
because it's so bomb that I loveit so much, it's really hard
(12:37):
for me to not want to follow upmy with my own hair care line.
And I'm not to my own harmbecause my shampoo and
conditioner is really like that.
I really love how my hair feelsafterwards.
So I may just follow up with itagain and then I will follow up
with Redken or Biolodge.
But, like I said, I do wash myhair every week.
(13:00):
If you know you are a person whodoes not wash their hair every
week, I highly recommend you notto follow right back up with a
silicone-based product, with asilicone based product.
Also, remember to clarify whenneeded.
I like to clarify once a month.
(13:20):
That's like the.
You know, that's like the mostrecommended across the board for
any natural hair carespecialist.
We will always say at leastonce a month.
Month.
But if you are a person wholoads your hair with a lot of
product, I'm gonna say at leastevery two weeks.
But just make sure you areclarifying your hair strands if
(13:43):
you feel build up.
Clarify once every couple ofweeks with a gentle clarifying
shampoo or treatment.
Or once a month.
Balance with hydration.
Make sure you're moisturizingwell underneath the silicone
layer to keep those curlshealthy and pay attention to
your hair's needs.
(14:04):
Porosity, texture and yourroutine all matter.
Silicones are a tool, not acurse.
Now, when I created dewy curlshampoo and conditioner, I will
say my conditioner does not havesilicones in it.
It's my shampoo.
But I did that intentionally,not as fillers and for sure not
(14:25):
marketing.
Okay, because silicones arebanned in the natural hair
community, so that lets you knowthis was intentional and done
on purpose, but because theyserve a purpose.
When I use my shampoo andconditioner, my curls feel
protected, but still bouncy.
I don't get that weighed down,greasy feeling, even though
(14:48):
there's dimethicone in there,because the formula is balanced
with cleansing agents andhumectants.
The cyclomethicone gives thatsilky slip, so detangling is
smoother.
It's about understanding what'sin your product and why,
understand why these ingredientsare incorporated together.
(15:10):
Don't see one ingredient andrebuke it in the name of Jesus.
Okay, because social media willhave you thinking alcohol and
products are bad, notunderstanding that there are
healthy alcohols and you haveunhealthy alcohols and they all
(15:33):
serve a specific purpose.
But we're not going to get intothat.
If you want to know more aboutthat, I can create an episode
around that.
But yeah, so that's why youcannot, without thoroughly
educating yourself, you know asfar as why these ingredients are
in the product in the firstplace, it's not really fair to
just ban the product alltogether.
It's really about understandingwhat's in your product and why,
(15:56):
instead of fearing ingredientsjust because of a label or
because the influence of acommunity of women that we love
and trust and adore.
So let's get into my favoritepart of the episode, and that's
who this is for and who it isnot for, because silicones are
not for everyone, and that isokay.
(16:17):
And here's how to know whereyou stand who this is for
Individuals who deal withuncontrollable frizz or dryness
and need long lasting protection.
Those who heat, style or areoften in environments that cause
damage environmental damagelike harsh sun or wind.
(16:40):
People who want smoother,shinier curls with less breakage
.
Anyone who is willing tocleanse properly Listen to this
one.
This one is important, okay.
Anyone who is willing tocleanse properly and maintain a
balanced routine to preventbuild-up.
(17:02):
So if you know you are, youknow really laxed when it comes
to shampooing your hair.
I told y'all earlier I shampoomy hair weekly.
So if you know you more relaxedin that area, don't you even
think about getting a siliconebased product.
Okay, don't do it to yourself,because you will hate your hair,
(17:24):
because it's going to startresponding to what you are doing
to it.
I'm actually going to create anepisode separately on why you
should be washing your hairweekly, but that's another
conversation for another day,and let's keep on talking about
(17:44):
silicones.
Okay, now, who is this?
Not for those who avoidsynthetic ingredients entirely
for personal or lifestylereasons, because I don't ever
want someone to feel pressuredinto doing anything, especially
(18:08):
coming from me.
Like life is already, it hasits own little unique challenges
.
So if you just want to stayaway from things that you deem
are unclean and synthetic andwhatever you are doing is
working for you, by all meansstay there, okay.
Anyone who knows their hairgets weighed down easily and
(18:30):
prefers lightweight siliconefree options.
So if you know your hair getsway down easily and you don't
wash your hair weekly, this isprobably not going to be for you
.
So that would to me, if I hadto signify that or classify not
signify but classify that with aspecific texture, I would say
my very high density, fine,strand, curly girls probably
(18:56):
wouldn't be for you if you don'twant to wash weekly.
So the goal is not to saysilicones work for everyone, but
to understand whether theyalign with your hair needs and
your hair care habits.
So if you are afraid ofsilicones, I get it, but I hope
(19:16):
that I gave you enough educationand awareness to let you know
that you don't have to be anddon't shut the door on them
without knowing the whole story.
They're not bad.
Just like anything is how youuse them and what your hair
needs.
My advice will always beeducate yourself and to
(19:38):
experiment, and also to listento your hair, because your hair
definitely talks to you.
It says exactly what it needs.
Sometimes there'smiscommunication and
misunderstanding and that's whythe goals also don't get met.
But if you want me to create anepisode about how hair talks to
you, I can do that as well.
(19:58):
I can dive deep into all of thenon-verbal things it likes to
tell you.
Okay, but anyways, silicones,when used right, can protect
your curls, lock in moisture andkeep your hair shining and
healthy.
That wraps up today'sconversation on silicones.
(20:20):
I hope you're walking away witha clearer understanding of how
they work, why they get so muchbacklash and how they can
actually be your curl's bestfriend when used correctly.
Remember, it's not aboutlabeling an ingredient good or
bad.
It's about understanding itspurpose and using it in a way
(20:40):
that supports your hair's needs.
As a thank you for tuning in,you can use code dewy at
checkout to save 20 on my dewycurl shampoo and conditioner.
This way, you can experiencethe intentional balance of
dimethicone and cyclomethiconewe talked about today and see
the difference in your curls.
(21:01):
Thank you for listening to Hairwhat I'm Saying.
Until next time, take care ofyour hair and it will take care
of you.