As we continue the journey of what it takes to build a luxury handbag brand from scratch the harsh realities of the industry, we pick up where we left off with Julie Deane, and her difficult choice to sell her company. This is precisely the thrilling journey Julie Deane, founder of the Cambridge Statue Company, unravels with us. We take a deep dive into the complex world of the handbag business, learning about the trials of selling, the betrayal of manufacturers, and the courage it took for Julie to take control and become her own manufacturer. This story of resilience and innovation shines a spotlight on the unexpected opportunity that a Google Chrome advert presented, reflecting the success of the company's adept use of technology.
Does the thought of navigating various challenges such as Brexit, the pandemic, and the quest for the right investors sound daunting? Julie shares how she faced these hurdles head-on while establishing a luxury handbag brand. She also opens up about her ultimate decision to sell her company to a French group that values British manufacturing, ensuring job security for her employees. In our closing chapter, we engage in a heartfelt talk about the highs and lows of being a handbag designer. Julie shares some invaluable advice for anyone considering this career path and emphasizes the unique and exciting experiences it brings. These captivating insights are a must-listen for anyone interested in the behind-the-scenes reality of the handbag industry. Don't miss out, and remember to leave us a rating and review!
Follow Julie:
https://www.instagram.com/julie_deane/
Youtube: / Handbagdesigner101-ihda | Instagram:/ Handbagdesigner
TikTok: / Handbagdesigner | Twitter: / Handbagdesigner
Mark as Played
Transcript
Episode Transcript
Available transcripts are automatically generated. Complete accuracy is not guaranteed.
Speaker 1 (00:00):
And they were laughing.
They said, well, you're like no, seriously, I want a banana.
Speaker 2 (00:06):
They said you're the least effort kind ever you know
for in these series.
He said we've had Lady Gaga,we've had people.
You can have anything you want,right?
You know, you can just tell usanything from any restaurant in
London, we will go out and getit whatever you want.
I said no, no, just, you know abanana, I'm happy with a banana
(00:30):
.
And I said I'm looking outthere I can see somebody's got a
cheese sandwich.
If I could have a cheesesandwich I would be just all set
.
You know it was.
Speaker 1 (00:39):
Hi and welcome to Handbag Designer 101, the
podcast, with your host, emilyBlumenthal, handbag industry
expert and the handbag fairygodmother.
Each week we uncover thestories behind the handbags we
love, from the iconic brands andtop designers to the creativity
, craftsmanship and culture thatdefine the handbag world.
Whether you're a designer,collector or simply passionate
(01:00):
about handbags, this is yourfront row seat to it all.
Welcome, my dear sweet JulieDean.
Back to the Handbag Designer101, the podcast for part two of
the tale of the CambridgeSatchel Company.
So where we left it becausethis was worthy of part one and
(01:24):
part two we made it to the pointwhere somebody had come in and,
after you've been running ityourself, a company had come in
and you made the hard decisionto sell part of it or give up
control.
The first time.
What had happened?
Speaker 2 (01:46):
first time what had happened?
Yeah, because we talked aboutall that happened with the
manufacturer stealing theleather, making the ripoff bags.
I think that was such adifficult, difficult time
because the relationship thatyou have with your manufacturer
is a very strong one.
Know, it's a marriage, You'redependent on a marriage, and I
think that it's very difficultwhen you've been having meetings
(02:12):
every week when you'd shakenhands, sat across the table,
looked someone in the eye, feltthat you knew somebody so well,
to then have such an unexpectedand unbelievable sort of
disruption more than adisruption and it makes you
question are you even a goodjudge of character?
(02:33):
Should you be doing this?
How do you get over this?
Which is one of the big reasonsthat led me to this.
Looking back on it, quiteincredible decision of no, what
I'm going to do is I'm going tobecome my own manufacturer, you
know, and I'm not going to gothrough this again.
And which is, you know, lookingfrom the slightly, from the
(02:57):
outside, now back in, I sort ofthink, wow, that was such a
brave thing to do for someonewho didn't know about
manufacturing, but it felt likethe only way of not going
through that again and it was adecision that would pay
dividends over and over and overagain, you know, sort of in the
(03:17):
years that followed, because itmeant that I would never feel
that if a bigger brand camealong I would be pushed
backwards.
You know I would no longer be apriority, or you just never
quite know what somebody else'sagenda is Right.
When you own your ownmanufacturing, it just means you
(03:38):
can decide what gets made firstand you know whether you have
overtime to do something or inthe whole product development
line.
It makes things a lot morestraightforward and, though
nobody could have foreseen it atthe time during the pandemic,
it just means that at leastyou're slightly more in control
(04:03):
of how the whole thing ishandled.
You know how people are takencare of, how you make the things
safe, your supply chain.
You at least know what's goingon.
So it was something that I lookback on and, I think, an
incredible decision, but I'mreally glad I went that way.
Speaker 1 (04:20):
So, in the midst of all this, you had not once but
twice, somebody come in.
Yeah, take over your company sowhat?
Speaker 2 (04:30):
it didn't feel like a takeover, I think.
That where we were lucky and Iwas speaking to somebody who's
got a startup just this morningand I said to them you've got to
really know your business, whatmakes you different, and then
you will become visible on avery crowded radar Right.
And I do remember it was onlyabout six months, maybe less.
(04:55):
After that we had the wholething of the Google advert and I
don't think we touched on that.
But I remember the thing withthe manufacturer made me quite a
paranoid person and I remembergetting a phone call and it just
said oh, we've got this amazing, unbelievable media opportunity
(05:17):
you've been shortlisted for,but we need to know more about
your business.
And I was just not having it.
So I was like, well, tell meall about it, otherwise I'm
telling you nothing.
And they sort of got back andthey said, no, no, well, we
can't tell you very much aboutthis, but just believe me, this
is something you don't want tomiss.
(05:38):
And I was just thinking no, youmust think I was born yesterday
.
I'm not having this.
I'm not divulging my secrets.
I don't know what secrets Ifelt I had left to divulge at
that point, but I'm notdivulging.
And they said okay, look, wewill find out if we can tell you
, but you're going to have tosign a non-disclosure agreement.
(06:01):
And I remember my mum wassitting with me in the office
just outside Cambridge, and mymum was sitting there, the dog
was sitting there, and all of asudden, this agreement, this
non-disclosure agreement, camethrough and it was massive.
I mean, the printer was doingovertime, it was huge.
And my mum was looking at meand she said well, julie, if
(06:23):
this is some kind of joke,they're taking it very seriously
.
There's this endless stack,it's like two inch thick
document, and we looked at itand in the end I sort of thought
and they love the story of how,with £600, using things like
Google Translate to take ordersfrom people in Korea and Japan,
(06:54):
and if you've used all of thesedifferent free tools, they want
to use you as the subject of theadvert for Google Chrome.
You could be the face of GoogleChrome.
I was looking at my mother justget out.
You know, we just didn't.
So we were sending the thingsand so you know, that is what
(07:17):
happened in the end.
And I remember going out to BBH, this incredible advertising
agency, and they said, we've gotso many questions that we need
to create this advert and Ihadn't had any breakfast.
I'd gone on, an early trainarrived there and I was really,
really hungry and as I was goingthrough I could see that?
Speaker 1 (07:36):
Wait a second, so?
But Google has a good buffet.
I don't understand.
No, but this was at BBH.
This was, oh, the age of theadvertising agency.
They didn't have a spread foryou.
Speaker 2 (07:45):
Well, I went to them and I said I know it's only 1230
.
I'm really really, reallyhungry I've come in from
Cambridge.
Could I have a banana?
And they were laughing.
Speaker 1 (07:56):
They said, well, you're like no, seriously, I
want a banana.
Speaker 2 (07:59):
They said you're the least effort kind ever you know
for in these series.
He said we've had Lady Gaga,we've had people.
You can have anything you want,right?
You know, you can just tell usanything from any restaurant in
London, we will go out and getit whatever you want.
I said no, no, just you know abanana, I'm happy with a banana.
(08:24):
And I said I'm looking outthere I can see somebody's got a
cheese sandwich.
If I could have a cheesesandwich I would be just all set
.
You know it was.
And I remember back to thatsort of phase of doing the
Google advert.
I had no idea what a big dealthis was going to be.
You know the advert on YouTubewe had 8 million views.
Speaker 1 (08:45):
I need to go back and see it because I have a big
recollection.
It was like you by a table,wasn't it?
Speaker 2 (08:51):
And it was, I remember that it was just
incredible, because I remembersaying to Emily and Max because
my kids were both on that advertand I remember saying to them
look, I know you've just starteda new school, but don't worry,
nobody's going to see this, thisisn't, don't worry, nobody.
And were you still married?
That, yes, I was, I was.
(09:13):
And at the first time thatadvert aired we have this huge
sort of it's like an america'sgot talent type thing the x
factor, yeah, yeah, biggest showon tv at that time and the
advert aired during the firstbreak of the X Factor on
Saturday night primetime TV.
(09:33):
And both my children werelooking at me like, really, this
isn't going to be a big hit,you know at all?
No, of course it isn't.
No, I took them to the cinema.
Sure enough, larger than life.
There it was, the advert wasplaying in the cinemas.
So they went back to school andit was like what did you do
over the summer holiday?
Oh well, you know we're on theGoogle advert.
(09:54):
It was absolutely incredible.
It was incredible and, ofcourse, the website crashed, but
it was just so exciting.
It was very, very exciting.
And it was a year after thatthat we got approached by.
Well, for the six months up towhen I decided who to take
(10:17):
investment from, I was gettingphone calls all the time, you
know, from private equity, fromventure capital places.
Oh, we'll take you out forlunch, you can tell us your
plans, and I'm still, you know,thinking well, why would I do
that?
You know, I'm really reallybusy.
I don't know you, I don't wantto go to lunch with you and I
don't want to tell you my plans,you know.
(10:46):
And then in the end it becameobvious that it would be really
nice to have somebody elsesitting at the table, because if
you're the one that, everythingcomes just down to you.
And the company was growing asthe seventh fastest growing
company in the UK.
Everything was growing soquickly and I've never done any
of this before.
I just knew what I liked andwhat I didn't like.
You know, we we were making forDover Street Market, we were
(11:13):
working with Vivian Westwood, wewere working with Comme des
Garcons, we'd been in Vogue inseven countries and I just
thought it would be really niceto have people that actually
know what they're doing at thistable.
That would be a lot lessstressful.
Speaker 1 (11:26):
If you ever wanted to start a handbag brand and
didn't know where to start, thisis for you.
If you had dreams of becoming ahandbag designer but aren't
trained in design, this is foryou.
If you have a handbag brand andneed strategy and direction,
this is for you.
I'm Emily Blumenthal, handbagdesigner expert and handbag
fairy godmother, and this is theHandbag Designer 101
(11:49):
Masterclass.
Over the next 10 classes, Iwill break down everything you
need to know to make,manufacture and market a handbag
brand, broken down to ensurethat you will not only skip
steps in the handbag buildingprocess, but also to save money
to avoid the learning curve ofcostly mistakes.
For the past 20 years, I've beenteaching at the top fashion
(12:09):
universities in New York City,wrote the Handbag Designer Bible
, founded the Handbag Awards andcreated the only Handbag
Designer podcast.
I'm going to show you like Ihave countless brands to create
in this in-depth course, fromsketch to sample to sale.
Whether you're just startingout and don't even know where to
start or begin, or if you had abrand and need some strategic
(12:34):
direction, the Handbag Designer101 Masterclass is just for you.
So let's get started and you'llbe the creator of the next it
bag.
Join me, emily Blumenthal, inthe Handbag Designer 101
Masterclass.
So be sure to sign up atemilyblumenthalcom slash
masterclass and type in the codepodcast to get 10% off your
masterclass today.
Speaker 2 (13:00):
And so I engaged a big audit accounting firm.
You know that was really reallysort of big in the space and
just sort of said to them canyou please just talk to all of
these people and just give me alist of three, just three, that
(13:20):
you think are really good, thatI should speak to and meet, and
I'll decide from those three.
But I don't want this constantbarrage of cloning, and they did
a fantastic job of that.
You know.
They sort of taught me through.
These are the differencesbetween these three that we've
(13:40):
narrowed it down to, becausethat's manageable.
I mean, yeah, to run thisbusiness, and that was already
more than a full-time job.
I didn't need to be trying tobe, you know, distracted by all
these people wanting to get mepunched.
So that was really good.
And the three that they gave meat the end were three excellent
ones.
They definitely picked the rightones and that was an
(14:03):
interesting process, you know,to try, and I mean one was easy,
because I went to visit theiroffices and it was so messy and
it looked so disorganized.
I just thought, no, no, yeah,that's out.
Yeah, I can't deal with goingto a place where I think that it
felt chaotic.
(14:23):
I didn't like it, and it's gotto be a place you feel really
comfortable, and so I did.
I got down to Index.
And then Inflection was theother one, and both of those
were a really good fit, are justso impressive.
(14:45):
You know, they've backed someincredible, incredible brands,
and fashion wasn't particularlytheir space.
They're more, I would say,they're still just more
tech-minded, but just soimpressive.
And then inflection they'vedone great things, but it was
then came down to the way thatpeople wanted to structure the
(15:08):
investment, and I'm very debtaverse, as one should be.
I think it puts less, you know.
It felt less, so I just wanteda straight equity investment.
Speaker 1 (15:22):
So was this the first investment or the second one?
This?
Speaker 2 (15:24):
was the first one.
This is the first one, and if Iwent back I could have made far
more of a success of that.
It's this kind of impostersyndrome type thing of look,
I've got it to this stage, butnow I need to get the experts
into scale.
And now we've got.
Speaker 1 (15:41):
And what you realize after the fact that they aren't
experts and they just have money, after the fact that they
aren't experts and they justhave money.
So how did you handle it?
Once they got involved and whatensued?
You took it back, didn't you?
Or how did you?
It was, how many years were youwith the?
Speaker 2 (15:59):
final.
Well, right until the end, whenI sold it, index was still
involved, and one thing I wouldsay is you need to deal with
people that you respect, becausethey behave well all the way
through.
They might not think they wantto put more money in, and maybe
(16:20):
that's the right decision,because as a founder, you're
always you know it's like as amom you always think your child
is the best.
You always think that, yes, youjust need to.
But they do have thatobjectivity.
So they might not want to putmore money in and you might have
disagreements along the way,but as long as you've gone with
an investor that's a goodinvestor with a good reputation
(16:44):
then they behave well throughout.
Speaker 1 (16:52):
What took you to the point of saying, okay, it's time
to sell?
Was that them, was it?
You?
Was it?
Collective, was it?
You just didn't like thedirection, like I'm I needed to
step away because we'd gonethrough brexit.
Speaker 2 (17:05):
We thought brexit was going to be a really, really
difficult and it did throw up anumber of challenges, but those
challenges were totally dwarfedby the pandemic.
We have leather from Europeoften, and so either from Italy
or from Spain or from Holland,and that supply chain, you know,
(17:26):
during the pandemic, places arecompletely locked down.
We couldn't get leather to thefactory.
Also, the shops Right, oh mygosh, all of a sudden the shops
were closed and we had about sixshops during that time.
Half of the landlords, totallyreasonable, and, you know, did
the right thing.
And then some of the landlords,reasonable and you know, did
(17:49):
the right thing, and then someof the landlords, no, no, rent
reduction we are pressing forhow can you still pay your rent
when you have no customers, whenthe shop can't even be open?
So you know, that was a very,very stressful time.
Over a hundred people onfurlough, yeah, you know, and it
was a really, really stressfultime and I think it was during
that time that I thought I'mgoing to hold things steady, I'm
(18:14):
going to get through this, butafter that I need time away.
I need time to recover fromjust all this constant, you know
, and the pandemic ended upbeing, you know, years of
lockdowns and disruption andtourist traffic behaving
differently and tourist trafficbehaving differently, you know,
(18:36):
and it just everything changed.
And so when I was approached,you know, just over a year ago,
by a French group that had deeppockets, that wanted to set up a
luxury group, but they lovedthe fact that we had British
manufacturing because thefactory that I'd set up, knowing
(18:59):
nothing, I have been incrediblyfortunate in having a head of
manufacturing, that theloveliest, loveliest man, who
knew everything there was toknow about manufacturing, and I
never had any worries about thefact that because of this man,
you know, we won BritishManufacturer of the Year.
(19:21):
We won every award going, andthat was, you know, his
expertise showed in that factory.
That made us a very attractiveproposition, because then we
could be manufacturing for otherbrands within the group Right.
And so I was adamant that ifthey were to take over, I wanted
(19:42):
people's jobs to be safe andthe British manufacturing to be
safe, and so I'd said no toeverybody where I didn't feel
that that was going to be thecase.
But with them, you know, yes,people, there were no job cuts,
there were no job losses and themanufacturing in the UK was
(20:05):
valued, and that was really,really important to me.
So that's why I decided look,I'd been on blood pressure
monitors 24 hours a day on threeoccasions.
You know that's how stressful itwas, and so I just thought
(20:26):
enough's enough.
I'd done this to make sure thatEmily and Max had a great
education.
And I'd done that, you know,and so much more.
You know my family was secure.
I was secure, my mom, she wassecure.
She said you know, you've madeit, so I don't have to worry
about turning on the heating,you know, and that's what this
(20:47):
cost of living crisis has donefor so many, and so I'm
incredibly grateful to CambridgeSatchel, this incredible brand
that you know I created with mymom standing beside me, and it
gave us enough security that Icould say these are the right
(21:07):
people.
I'm going to step away and Ineed to look after myself, I
need to feel healthy, I need totake the pressure off, and
that's, you know, a really toughdecision.
Because this brand was my thirdchild, you know I sort of
worried about it.
No detail was too small for meto get involved in.
(21:31):
I would make sure the tone ofvoice was right that all of the
photos, the photo shoots thatbag wouldn't be seen there.
This person isn't wearing theright clothes for that bag.
You know absolutely everythingI knew inside out, but it was,
you know, sadly had become sucha source of stress and that was
(21:52):
largely because of what's beengoing on in the world, which has
become a very scary place.
And even after the pandemic,you know the price of energy
when you're a manufacturer.
The energy bills for thefactory were absolutely enormous
and to safeguard everybody'sjobs, it was the right time for
(22:15):
me to say look, I have got tostep away.
Speaker 1 (22:18):
How do you now reflect on the brand?
I mean, we were talking abouthow, since you left and I just
noticed it too the logos change.
The DNA of the product is notyours.
Are you able to look at it likea divorce, like a child who's
gone their own way, or are youable to emotionally separate
(22:40):
yourself and saying it did whatit had to do?
I'm sad looking at this, butthat chapter is closed.
How are you able tocontextualize that, because it
is no longer yours?
Speaker 2 (22:49):
No.
And when the rebrandinghappened and the bicycle which I
really honestly believe, thatwas just such an authentic
Cambridge symbol you get rid ofthe bike.
That was the point.
I had to unsubscribe from theemail and stop looking.
That was the point that I justthought.
(23:09):
You know, this is not mine.
Now, you know I can't put myselfthrough this because I'm
looking at things which weren'tmy decisions and I have no say
over anymore.
But it is very much like achild.
I mean, cambridge Satchel willalways be in my heart, my brand,
you know always.
But I think that it's goingthrough a very big change that
(23:36):
would never have been, you know,my choice, and so I think that
the kindest thing.
And I wrote a LinkedIn pieceabout it and just said you know,
I can't be that person that'ssaying, well, I don't approve of
this and I don't like this andI don't.
You know, they have bought thatand it's theirs now to do what
they think is right.
Do I agree with the direction?
No, it's not the Cambridge.
Do what they think is right.
(23:56):
Do I agree with the direction?
No, it's not the Cambridgesatchel that I created.
But you know, I need to justnot look and think, what's next
for me?
What is but Brykie, are you?
Speaker 1 (24:07):
able to still walk down the street and see someone
wearing the satchel you createdand still find joy.
Does that?
Speaker 2 (24:15):
Yes, because I'm sure , yes, because those bags last
for decades and you know thebags that.
When I see a satchel, that wasthe bag that my mom and I
brought back.
You know that is our bag.
You know that is a fantastic,fantastic thing and it is very
much like a child.
(24:35):
If needed help, advice,anything, you know I would
always be there to help.
I could never turn my back ongingrich satchel.
But I cannot bear to read theemails and the tone of voice and
look at this, you know newanyway it because I think it
(24:56):
would just spoil my feelings andmy memories of what we created.
It's kind of like if you goback to a place that was really
special to you when you're achild, you've got to do that,
knowing that it's probablyevolved and moved on and changed
.
And if you see it thisdifferent way, maybe that will
(25:16):
taint your fond memories of it.
So it's that kind of decisionthat has to be made, julie
honestly, it has been a pleasureand beyond.
Speaker 1 (25:28):
Thank you so much for sharing a journey of the
Cambridge Satchel with us.
Listen, if there's a moviethat's going to be made, I'm
going to be behind it and I'mgoing to be chasing you down it
with the camera, along with allthe stuff that's growing in your
garden behind you, and theWelsh that you're learning right
now, because I don't know whatI need to eat in Welsh, but I'm
sure you're going to tell mebecause now, with the lessons
(25:50):
you're taking.
But thank you so much for beingpart of handbag designer 101,
the podcast.
You, you're an absolute gem.
Speaker 2 (25:56):
Well, thank you, and thank you for giving me the
opportunity, because the onething I would say is, with all
the ups and downs, with all theroller coasters, where else
would I have got the opportunityto do such incredible things?
And so, to anybody who isstanding looking thinking should
I do this?
Yes, you should, you knowabsolutely.
(26:17):
Yes, you should, you knowabsolutely, yes, you should.
And just take every challenge,one at a time, because they
don't all come at once.
Oh they don't?
Speaker 1 (26:26):
Oh my God.
Thank you, julie.
Thank you so much.
Thank you, thanks for listening.
Don't forget to rate and review, and follow us on every single
platform at Handbag Designer.
Thanks so much.
See you next time.
And they were laughing.
They said, well, you're like no, seriously, I want a banana.
Speaker 2 (00:06):
They said you're the least effort kind ever you know
for in these series.
He said we've had Lady Gaga,we've had people.
You can have anything you want,right?
You know, you can just tell usanything from any restaurant in
London, we will go out and getit whatever you want.
I said no, no, just, you know abanana, I'm happy with a banana
(00:30):
.
And I said I'm looking outthere I can see somebody's got a
cheese sandwich.
If I could have a cheesesandwich I would be just all set
.
You know it was.
Speaker 1 (00:39):
Hi and welcome to Handbag Designer 101, the
podcast, with your host, emilyBlumenthal, handbag industry
expert and the handbag fairygodmother.
Each week we uncover thestories behind the handbags we
love, from the iconic brands andtop designers to the creativity
, craftsmanship and culture thatdefine the handbag world.
Whether you're a designer,collector or simply passionate
(01:00):
about handbags, this is yourfront row seat to it all.
Welcome, my dear sweet JulieDean.
Back to the Handbag Designer101, the podcast for part two of
the tale of the CambridgeSatchel Company.
So where we left it becausethis was worthy of part one and
(01:24):
part two we made it to the pointwhere somebody had come in and,
after you've been running ityourself, a company had come in
and you made the hard decisionto sell part of it or give up
control.
The first time.
What had happened?
Speaker 2 (01:46):
first time what had happened?
Yeah, because we talked aboutall that happened with the
manufacturer stealing theleather, making the ripoff bags.
I think that was such adifficult, difficult time
because the relationship thatyou have with your manufacturer
is a very strong one.
Know, it's a marriage, You'redependent on a marriage, and I
think that it's very difficultwhen you've been having meetings
(02:12):
every week when you'd shakenhands, sat across the table,
looked someone in the eye, feltthat you knew somebody so well,
to then have such an unexpectedand unbelievable sort of
disruption more than adisruption and it makes you
question are you even a goodjudge of character?
(02:33):
Should you be doing this?
How do you get over this?
Which is one of the big reasonsthat led me to this.
Looking back on it, quiteincredible decision of no, what
I'm going to do is I'm going tobecome my own manufacturer, you
know, and I'm not going to gothrough this again.
And which is, you know, lookingfrom the slightly, from the
(02:57):
outside, now back in, I sort ofthink, wow, that was such a
brave thing to do for someonewho didn't know about
manufacturing, but it felt likethe only way of not going
through that again and it was adecision that would pay
dividends over and over and overagain, you know, sort of in the
(03:17):
years that followed, because itmeant that I would never feel
that if a bigger brand camealong I would be pushed
backwards.
You know I would no longer be apriority, or you just never
quite know what somebody else'sagenda is Right.
When you own your ownmanufacturing, it just means you
(03:38):
can decide what gets made firstand you know whether you have
overtime to do something or inthe whole product development
line.
It makes things a lot morestraightforward and, though
nobody could have foreseen it atthe time during the pandemic,
it just means that at leastyou're slightly more in control
(04:03):
of how the whole thing ishandled.
You know how people are takencare of, how you make the things
safe, your supply chain.
You at least know what's goingon.
So it was something that I lookback on and, I think, an
incredible decision, but I'mreally glad I went that way.
Speaker 1 (04:20):
So, in the midst of all this, you had not once but
twice, somebody come in.
Yeah, take over your company sowhat?
Speaker 2 (04:30):
it didn't feel like a takeover, I think.
That where we were lucky and Iwas speaking to somebody who's
got a startup just this morningand I said to them you've got to
really know your business, whatmakes you different, and then
you will become visible on avery crowded radar Right.
And I do remember it was onlyabout six months, maybe less.
(04:55):
After that we had the wholething of the Google advert and I
don't think we touched on that.
But I remember the thing withthe manufacturer made me quite a
paranoid person and I remembergetting a phone call and it just
said oh, we've got this amazing, unbelievable media opportunity
(05:17):
you've been shortlisted for,but we need to know more about
your business.
And I was just not having it.
So I was like, well, tell meall about it, otherwise I'm
telling you nothing.
And they sort of got back andthey said, no, no, well, we
can't tell you very much aboutthis, but just believe me, this
is something you don't want tomiss.
(05:38):
And I was just thinking no, youmust think I was born yesterday
.
I'm not having this.
I'm not divulging my secrets.
I don't know what secrets Ifelt I had left to divulge at
that point, but I'm notdivulging.
And they said okay, look, wewill find out if we can tell you
, but you're going to have tosign a non-disclosure agreement.
(06:01):
And I remember my mum wassitting with me in the office
just outside Cambridge, and mymum was sitting there, the dog
was sitting there, and all of asudden, this agreement, this
non-disclosure agreement, camethrough and it was massive.
I mean, the printer was doingovertime, it was huge.
And my mum was looking at meand she said well, julie, if
(06:23):
this is some kind of joke,they're taking it very seriously
.
There's this endless stack,it's like two inch thick
document, and we looked at itand in the end I sort of thought
and they love the story of how,with £600, using things like
Google Translate to take ordersfrom people in Korea and Japan,
(06:54):
and if you've used all of thesedifferent free tools, they want
to use you as the subject of theadvert for Google Chrome.
You could be the face of GoogleChrome.
I was looking at my mother justget out.
You know, we just didn't.
So we were sending the thingsand so you know, that is what
(07:17):
happened in the end.
And I remember going out to BBH, this incredible advertising
agency, and they said, we've gotso many questions that we need
to create this advert and Ihadn't had any breakfast.
I'd gone on, an early trainarrived there and I was really,
really hungry and as I was goingthrough I could see that?
Speaker 1 (07:36):
Wait a second, so?
But Google has a good buffet.
I don't understand.
No, but this was at BBH.
This was, oh, the age of theadvertising agency.
They didn't have a spread foryou.
Speaker 2 (07:45):
Well, I went to them and I said I know it's only 1230
.
I'm really really, reallyhungry I've come in from
Cambridge.
Could I have a banana?
And they were laughing.
Speaker 1 (07:56):
They said, well, you're like no, seriously, I
want a banana.
Speaker 2 (07:59):
They said you're the least effort kind ever you know
for in these series.
He said we've had Lady Gaga,we've had people.
You can have anything you want,right?
You know, you can just tell usanything from any restaurant in
London, we will go out and getit whatever you want.
I said no, no, just you know abanana, I'm happy with a banana.
(08:24):
And I said I'm looking outthere I can see somebody's got a
cheese sandwich.
If I could have a cheesesandwich I would be just all set
.
You know it was.
And I remember back to thatsort of phase of doing the
Google advert.
I had no idea what a big dealthis was going to be.
You know the advert on YouTubewe had 8 million views.
Speaker 1 (08:45):
I need to go back and see it because I have a big
recollection.
It was like you by a table,wasn't it?
Speaker 2 (08:51):
And it was, I remember that it was just
incredible, because I remembersaying to Emily and Max because
my kids were both on that advertand I remember saying to them
look, I know you've just starteda new school, but don't worry,
nobody's going to see this, thisisn't, don't worry, nobody.
And were you still married?
That, yes, I was, I was.
(09:13):
And at the first time thatadvert aired we have this huge
sort of it's like an america'sgot talent type thing the x
factor, yeah, yeah, biggest showon tv at that time and the
advert aired during the firstbreak of the X Factor on
Saturday night primetime TV.
(09:33):
And both my children werelooking at me like, really, this
isn't going to be a big hit,you know at all?
No, of course it isn't.
No, I took them to the cinema.
Sure enough, larger than life.
There it was, the advert wasplaying in the cinemas.
So they went back to school andit was like what did you do
over the summer holiday?
Oh well, you know we're on theGoogle advert.
(09:54):
It was absolutely incredible.
It was incredible and, ofcourse, the website crashed, but
it was just so exciting.
It was very, very exciting.
And it was a year after thatthat we got approached by.
Well, for the six months up towhen I decided who to take
(10:17):
investment from, I was gettingphone calls all the time, you
know, from private equity, fromventure capital places.
Oh, we'll take you out forlunch, you can tell us your
plans, and I'm still, you know,thinking well, why would I do
that?
You know, I'm really reallybusy.
I don't know you, I don't wantto go to lunch with you and I
don't want to tell you my plans,you know.
(10:46):
And then in the end it becameobvious that it would be really
nice to have somebody elsesitting at the table, because if
you're the one that, everythingcomes just down to you.
And the company was growing asthe seventh fastest growing
company in the UK.
Everything was growing soquickly and I've never done any
of this before.
I just knew what I liked andwhat I didn't like.
You know, we we were making forDover Street Market, we were
(11:13):
working with Vivian Westwood, wewere working with Comme des
Garcons, we'd been in Vogue inseven countries and I just
thought it would be really niceto have people that actually
know what they're doing at thistable.
That would be a lot lessstressful.
Speaker 1 (11:26):
If you ever wanted to start a handbag brand and
didn't know where to start, thisis for you.
If you had dreams of becoming ahandbag designer but aren't
trained in design, this is foryou.
If you have a handbag brand andneed strategy and direction,
this is for you.
I'm Emily Blumenthal, handbagdesigner expert and handbag
fairy godmother, and this is theHandbag Designer 101
(11:49):
Masterclass.
Over the next 10 classes, Iwill break down everything you
need to know to make,manufacture and market a handbag
brand, broken down to ensurethat you will not only skip
steps in the handbag buildingprocess, but also to save money
to avoid the learning curve ofcostly mistakes.
For the past 20 years, I've beenteaching at the top fashion
(12:09):
universities in New York City,wrote the Handbag Designer Bible
, founded the Handbag Awards andcreated the only Handbag
Designer podcast.
I'm going to show you like Ihave countless brands to create
in this in-depth course, fromsketch to sample to sale.
Whether you're just startingout and don't even know where to
start or begin, or if you had abrand and need some strategic
(12:34):
direction, the Handbag Designer101 Masterclass is just for you.
So let's get started and you'llbe the creator of the next it
bag.
Join me, emily Blumenthal, inthe Handbag Designer 101
Masterclass.
So be sure to sign up atemilyblumenthalcom slash
masterclass and type in the codepodcast to get 10% off your
masterclass today.
Speaker 2 (13:00):
And so I engaged a big audit accounting firm.
You know that was really reallysort of big in the space and
just sort of said to them canyou please just talk to all of
these people and just give me alist of three, just three, that
(13:20):
you think are really good, thatI should speak to and meet, and
I'll decide from those three.
But I don't want this constantbarrage of cloning, and they did
a fantastic job of that.
You know.
They sort of taught me through.
These are the differencesbetween these three that we've
(13:40):
narrowed it down to, becausethat's manageable.
I mean, yeah, to run thisbusiness, and that was already
more than a full-time job.
I didn't need to be trying tobe, you know, distracted by all
these people wanting to get mepunched.
So that was really good.
And the three that they gave meat the end were three excellent
ones.
They definitely picked the rightones and that was an
(14:03):
interesting process, you know,to try, and I mean one was easy,
because I went to visit theiroffices and it was so messy and
it looked so disorganized.
I just thought, no, no, yeah,that's out.
Yeah, I can't deal with goingto a place where I think that it
felt chaotic.
(14:23):
I didn't like it, and it's gotto be a place you feel really
comfortable, and so I did.
I got down to Index.
And then Inflection was theother one, and both of those
were a really good fit, are justso impressive.
(14:45):
You know, they've backed someincredible, incredible brands,
and fashion wasn't particularlytheir space.
They're more, I would say,they're still just more
tech-minded, but just soimpressive.
And then inflection they'vedone great things, but it was
then came down to the way thatpeople wanted to structure the
(15:08):
investment, and I'm very debtaverse, as one should be.
I think it puts less, you know.
It felt less, so I just wanteda straight equity investment.
Speaker 1 (15:22):
So was this the first investment or the second one?
This?
Speaker 2 (15:24):
was the first one.
This is the first one, and if Iwent back I could have made far
more of a success of that.
It's this kind of impostersyndrome type thing of look,
I've got it to this stage, butnow I need to get the experts
into scale.
And now we've got.
Speaker 1 (15:41):
And what you realize after the fact that they aren't
experts and they just have money, after the fact that they
aren't experts and they justhave money.
So how did you handle it?
Once they got involved and whatensued?
You took it back, didn't you?
Or how did you?
It was, how many years were youwith the?
Speaker 2 (15:59):
final.
Well, right until the end, whenI sold it, index was still
involved, and one thing I wouldsay is you need to deal with
people that you respect, becausethey behave well all the way
through.
They might not think they wantto put more money in, and maybe
(16:20):
that's the right decision,because as a founder, you're
always you know it's like as amom you always think your child
is the best.
You always think that, yes, youjust need to.
But they do have thatobjectivity.
So they might not want to putmore money in and you might have
disagreements along the way,but as long as you've gone with
an investor that's a goodinvestor with a good reputation
(16:44):
then they behave well throughout.
Speaker 1 (16:52):
What took you to the point of saying, okay, it's time
to sell?
Was that them, was it?
You?
Was it?
Collective, was it?
You just didn't like thedirection, like I'm I needed to
step away because we'd gonethrough brexit.
Speaker 2 (17:05):
We thought brexit was going to be a really, really
difficult and it did throw up anumber of challenges, but those
challenges were totally dwarfedby the pandemic.
We have leather from Europeoften, and so either from Italy
or from Spain or from Holland,and that supply chain, you know,
(17:26):
during the pandemic, places arecompletely locked down.
We couldn't get leather to thefactory.
Also, the shops Right, oh mygosh, all of a sudden the shops
were closed and we had about sixshops during that time.
Half of the landlords, totallyreasonable, and, you know, did
the right thing.
And then some of the landlords,reasonable and you know, did
(17:49):
the right thing, and then someof the landlords, no, no, rent
reduction we are pressing forhow can you still pay your rent
when you have no customers, whenthe shop can't even be open?
So you know, that was a very,very stressful time.
Over a hundred people onfurlough, yeah, you know, and it
was a really, really stressfultime and I think it was during
that time that I thought I'mgoing to hold things steady, I'm
(18:14):
going to get through this, butafter that I need time away.
I need time to recover fromjust all this constant, you know
, and the pandemic ended upbeing, you know, years of
lockdowns and disruption andtourist traffic behaving
differently and tourist trafficbehaving differently, you know,
(18:36):
and it just everything changed.
And so when I was approached,you know, just over a year ago,
by a French group that had deeppockets, that wanted to set up a
luxury group, but they lovedthe fact that we had British
manufacturing because thefactory that I'd set up, knowing
(18:59):
nothing, I have been incrediblyfortunate in having a head of
manufacturing, that theloveliest, loveliest man, who
knew everything there was toknow about manufacturing, and I
never had any worries about thefact that because of this man,
you know, we won BritishManufacturer of the Year.
(19:21):
We won every award going, andthat was, you know, his
expertise showed in that factory.
That made us a very attractiveproposition, because then we
could be manufacturing for otherbrands within the group Right.
And so I was adamant that ifthey were to take over, I wanted
(19:42):
people's jobs to be safe andthe British manufacturing to be
safe, and so I'd said no toeverybody where I didn't feel
that that was going to be thecase.
But with them, you know, yes,people, there were no job cuts,
there were no job losses and themanufacturing in the UK was
(20:05):
valued, and that was really,really important to me.
So that's why I decided look,I'd been on blood pressure
monitors 24 hours a day on threeoccasions.
You know that's how stressful itwas, and so I just thought
(20:26):
enough's enough.
I'd done this to make sure thatEmily and Max had a great
education.
And I'd done that, you know,and so much more.
You know my family was secure.
I was secure, my mom, she wassecure.
She said you know, you've madeit, so I don't have to worry
about turning on the heating,you know, and that's what this
(20:47):
cost of living crisis has donefor so many, and so I'm
incredibly grateful to CambridgeSatchel, this incredible brand
that you know I created with mymom standing beside me, and it
gave us enough security that Icould say these are the right
(21:07):
people.
I'm going to step away and Ineed to look after myself, I
need to feel healthy, I need totake the pressure off, and
that's, you know, a really toughdecision.
Because this brand was my thirdchild, you know I sort of
worried about it.
No detail was too small for meto get involved in.
(21:31):
I would make sure the tone ofvoice was right that all of the
photos, the photo shoots thatbag wouldn't be seen there.
This person isn't wearing theright clothes for that bag.
You know absolutely everythingI knew inside out, but it was,
you know, sadly had become sucha source of stress and that was
(21:52):
largely because of what's beengoing on in the world, which has
become a very scary place.
And even after the pandemic,you know the price of energy
when you're a manufacturer.
The energy bills for thefactory were absolutely enormous
and to safeguard everybody'sjobs, it was the right time for
(22:15):
me to say look, I have got tostep away.
Speaker 1 (22:18):
How do you now reflect on the brand?
I mean, we were talking abouthow, since you left and I just
noticed it too the logos change.
The DNA of the product is notyours.
Are you able to look at it likea divorce, like a child who's
gone their own way, or are youable to emotionally separate
(22:40):
yourself and saying it did whatit had to do?
I'm sad looking at this, butthat chapter is closed.
How are you able tocontextualize that, because it
is no longer yours?
Speaker 2 (22:49):
No.
And when the rebrandinghappened and the bicycle which I
really honestly believe, thatwas just such an authentic
Cambridge symbol you get rid ofthe bike.
That was the point.
I had to unsubscribe from theemail and stop looking.
That was the point that I justthought.
(23:09):
You know, this is not mine.
Now, you know I can't put myselfthrough this because I'm
looking at things which weren'tmy decisions and I have no say
over anymore.
But it is very much like achild.
I mean, cambridge Satchel willalways be in my heart, my brand,
you know always.
But I think that it's goingthrough a very big change that
(23:36):
would never have been, you know,my choice, and so I think that
the kindest thing.
And I wrote a LinkedIn pieceabout it and just said you know,
I can't be that person that'ssaying, well, I don't approve of
this and I don't like this andI don't.
You know, they have bought thatand it's theirs now to do what
they think is right.
Do I agree with the direction?
No, it's not the Cambridge.
Do what they think is right.
(23:56):
Do I agree with the direction?
No, it's not the Cambridgesatchel that I created.
But you know, I need to justnot look and think, what's next
for me?
What is but Brykie, are you?
Speaker 1 (24:07):
able to still walk down the street and see someone
wearing the satchel you createdand still find joy.
Does that?
Speaker 2 (24:15):
Yes, because I'm sure , yes, because those bags last
for decades and you know thebags that.
When I see a satchel, that wasthe bag that my mom and I
brought back.
You know that is our bag.
You know that is a fantastic,fantastic thing and it is very
much like a child.
(24:35):
If needed help, advice,anything, you know I would
always be there to help.
I could never turn my back ongingrich satchel.
But I cannot bear to read theemails and the tone of voice and
look at this, you know newanyway it because I think it
(24:56):
would just spoil my feelings andmy memories of what we created.
It's kind of like if you goback to a place that was really
special to you when you're achild, you've got to do that,
knowing that it's probablyevolved and moved on and changed
.
And if you see it thisdifferent way, maybe that will
(25:16):
taint your fond memories of it.
So it's that kind of decisionthat has to be made, julie
honestly, it has been a pleasureand beyond.
Speaker 1 (25:28):
Thank you so much for sharing a journey of the
Cambridge Satchel with us.
Listen, if there's a moviethat's going to be made, I'm
going to be behind it and I'mgoing to be chasing you down it
with the camera, along with allthe stuff that's growing in your
garden behind you, and theWelsh that you're learning right
now, because I don't know whatI need to eat in Welsh, but I'm
sure you're going to tell mebecause now, with the lessons
(25:50):
you're taking.
But thank you so much for beingpart of handbag designer 101,
the podcast.
You, you're an absolute gem.
Speaker 2 (25:56):
Well, thank you, and thank you for giving me the
opportunity, because the onething I would say is, with all
the ups and downs, with all theroller coasters, where else
would I have got the opportunityto do such incredible things?
And so, to anybody who isstanding looking thinking should
I do this?
Yes, you should, you knowabsolutely.
(26:17):
Yes, you should, you knowabsolutely, yes, you should.
And just take every challenge,one at a time, because they
don't all come at once.
Oh they don't?
Speaker 1 (26:26):
Oh my God.
Thank you, julie.
Thank you so much.
Thank you, thanks for listening.
Don't forget to rate and review, and follow us on every single
platform at Handbag Designer.
Thanks so much.
See you next time.
Popular Podcasts
On Purpose with Jay Shetty
I’m Jay Shetty host of On Purpose the worlds #1 Mental Health podcast and I’m so grateful you found us. I started this podcast 5 years ago to invite you into conversations and workshops that are designed to help make you happier, healthier and more healed. I believe that when you (yes you) feel seen, heard and understood you’re able to deal with relationship struggles, work challenges and life’s ups and downs with more ease and grace. I interview experts, celebrities, thought leaders and athletes so that we can grow our mindset, build better habits and uncover a side of them we’ve never seen before. New episodes every Monday and Friday. Your support means the world to me and I don’t take it for granted — click the follow button and leave a review to help us spread the love with On Purpose. I can’t wait for you to listen to your first or 500th episode!
Stuff You Should Know
If you've ever wanted to know about champagne, satanism, the Stonewall Uprising, chaos theory, LSD, El Nino, true crime and Rosa Parks, then look no further. Josh and Chuck have you covered.
The Joe Rogan Experience
The official podcast of comedian Joe Rogan.