February 7, 2024 • 16 mins
Are cabbage moths and butterflies turning your garden into a battleground? Join me as we arm you with the tactics to defend your brassicas against these voracious vegetarians. We'll identify the enemy – those fluttering white foes and their ravenous larvae – and I'll share my arsenal of tried-and-true strategies. Discover how fine netting, aromatic companion plants, and even moth scarecrows can protect your cabbage, broccoli, and kale. And should an infestation strike, learn the crucial steps for manual caterpillar combat to keep your leafy greens safe. This episode is a treasure trove for any gardener waging war on cabbage pests.
As our gardening saga draws to a close, I encourage you to join forces with fellow green thumbs in our Seed Collection Community on Facebook. It's a place brimming with shared wisdom, where your love for the soil can find kindred spirits. And don't forget to visit www.theseedcollection.com.au – your go-to resource for seeds and sage advice. Whether you're a seasoned horticulturist or just starting to sow your first seeds, this community and our website are wellsprings of gardening knowledge, ready to help your garden grow with health and vigor. Thanks for tuning in and may your garden be bountiful!
'How I Grow' is produced by The Seed Collection Pty Ltd.
Find out more about us here: www.theseedcollection.com.au
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Transcript
Episode Transcript
Available transcripts are automatically generated. Complete accuracy is not guaranteed.
Speaker 1 (00:00):
You're listening to how I Grow with the Seed
Collection, and today we'll betalking about how to best manage
cabbage moths, butterflies andcaterpillars in your garden.
In this episode, we'll delveinto how to identify, deal with
and deter these produce thieves.
This is especially helpful forthose of you who love your
brassicas and leafy greens.
Cast an eye over almost anyvegetable patch and you're sure
(00:24):
to see a brassica or two.
This family of veggies ishugely popular with home growers
thanks to its wide variety andrelatively easy cultivation.
Brassicas include plants likecabbage broccoli, rocket
cauliflower, kale, bok choy andBrussels sprouts, just to name a
few.
Unfortunately, it's not onlygardeners who appreciate the
(00:47):
many possibilities thatbrassicas offer.
Cabbage moths and cabbagebutterflies make a beeline for
them and if left to their owndevices, they'll they waste to
your precious crop in next to notime.
So what are cabbage moths andbutterflies?
Here in Australia, there aretwo main species of
brassica-loving insect pests.
Namely, these are cabbage mothsPlutella Zioastella and cabbage
(01:11):
white butterflies, pierrasRapae.
These two insects aren'tactually closely related and
they look very different, butthey do share similar habits,
cause similar problems and aredealt with in similar ways too.
Adult cabbage moths are roughly10 millimeters long and mottled
gray with a diamond pattern ontheir wings.
(01:32):
The more familiar cabbagebutterfly is a little larger, at
around 40 millimeters, and haswhite wings with small black
spots on the corners.
Despite the visual andbiological differences, the
terms cabbage moth and cabbagebutterfly are both widely used
to refer to either species and,as the name suggests, these
(01:54):
pests love to feast on a growingcabbage, but, as if our
cabbages aren't enough for them,they'll actually feast on the
entire brassica family.
The adults are harmless inthemselves, but if given a
chance to lay eggs, an army ofhungry caterpillars will soon
follow.
Cabbage moths produce lightgreenish brown caterpillars with
(02:14):
a darker head, while butterflylarvae are a smooth greenish
blue.
However, it's not necessary topositively identify a species,
because, when it comes to foodcrops, no caterpillars are
particularly welcome.
If they're allowed to feeduninterrupted, the larvae will
chew a network of holes, oftenleading to leaf loss and the
eventual skeletonization anddeath of the plant.
(02:38):
There are some deterrentstechniques, though.
There are three main ways ofdeterring moths from laying eggs
on your brassicas, and theseare netting, companion planting
and decoys.
If you're opting for netting toform a physical barrier, be
sure that it's very fine, sothat it works in stopping the
moths from reaching your plants.
(02:59):
Ensure the net's fully enclosedeach plant, but don't allow the
net to physically touch it.
If the netting is resting onthe brassica, a moth can too,
and you can buy dedicatedbutterfly protection nets.
But if you'd rather reuse orrecycle which is a great option
an old mozzie net will do thetrick, or even a flywire from
(03:20):
window or door screens if youhave some laying around.
It is important to note, though, that netting has a drawback of
preventing more useful access,like that of the moths' natural
predators.
If eggs have already been laid,the caterpillars will have free
rain to feed, safe from birdsand other predators.
So it's best to net prior to aninfestation.
(03:43):
Another option, and this is myfavourite, is companion planting
.
As is often the case, companionplanting can provide a range of
solutions to a caterpillarproblem.
Isn't it fantastic that asolution to a plant problem can
actually be more plants.
First up is planting some whiteclover, which is like a living
(04:04):
mulch.
The white flowers blowing inthe breeze also give the moths
the idea that this spot isalready taken, and they're sent
masks that of the brassicas.
Strong smelling herbs likelavender, sage and rosemary seem
to deter cabbage moths fromsettling in laying eggs.
Try planting them around theedges of your patch to form an
odor barrier that doesn'trestrict your own access.
(04:26):
The extra bonus is that notonly will your brassicas be
afforded some more protection,but you'll get to enjoy the
benefits of these lovely herbstoo.
And if this doesn't work, youcould grow landcress as a dead
end decoy.
Adult moths are strongly drawnto this plant, but the leaves
contain toxins which are lethalto caterpillars.
Any eggs laid on landcress willbe the last in their family
(04:50):
line.
If you've exhausted theseoptions, you could try growing
some decoy plants that the mothslove, like nasturtiums, dill
and mustard.
These will draw the egg layersaway from your main crops as
well as look lovely in yourgarden, but it does risk
encouraging them to hang around.
And finally, we have decoy mothscarecrow.
(05:14):
Surprisingly, cabbage moths areincredibly territorial and
they'll avoid laying eggs wherethere's already competition for
caterpillar food.
Take advantage of this by usingmoth scarecrow to encourage
real moths to find less crowdedareas.
You can buy plastic moth-shapeddecoys to place around your
brassica patch, but it's asimple and fun job to make your
(05:35):
own if you like to get creativenow and then.
To do this, simply cut whiteplastic sheeting or old shopping
bags into roughly moth-shapedpieces of around 40mm across.
Fix these to the end of twigs,skewers or canes and plant them
next to the target plants.
To butterfly eyes, the plasticfluttering in the breeze is a
(05:57):
convincing impression of a rival.
So what if you already have aninfestation?
Unfortunately, cabbage mothsare determined and plentiful,
and even the best deterrentstactics can sometimes fail.
If you're facing an infestation,fast action is important to
save your plants.
Manual methods are the simplestand quickest way to make an
(06:22):
impact.
Pick your brassicas forcaterpillars, particularly on
the undersides of the leaves,but also deeper within the plant
hearts.
Pick off any larvae you findand dispose of them in whichever
permanent way you prefer.
This requires a little bit oftime in the now, but will save
you lots of it in the future.
Repeat this hunt every day andyou can quickly get on top of
(06:44):
the larvae population beforeyour crop is depleted.
To be thorough, also remove anyclutches of eggs to prevent new
larvae from hatching.
If you'd rather not touch them,use a light hose or powerful
garden sprayer to knock them tothe ground.
Once on the soil, they'll beeasy targets for birds, beetles
and other predators.
(07:04):
This method isn't the mostreliable, though, so if you can
opt for picking them off first,these manual methods are
effective when your patch isn'ttoo big or the infestation isn't
too severe.
More serious problems requiresomething a little more drastic,
like anti-caterpillar sprays.
There are plenty of commercialinsecticide sprays for
(07:26):
controlling caterpillars, someorganic and eco-friendly, others
less so Many are based on anatural pesticide called
pyrethrum, which works againstcaterpillars, aphids and many
other pests.
Unfortunately, these can alsocause problems for beneficial
insects like ladybirds.
Because of this, sprays basedon a bacterium called bacillus
(07:50):
thuringiensis are oftenpreferred instead.
These products are mostcommonly sold under the dipole
brand.
These sprays have severalstrong advantages.
They're highly selective, onlyaffecting leaf-eating
caterpillars among insects.
They're harmless for birds andother wildlife.
The sprays are safe for use onfood crops with no withholding
(08:11):
period.
The bacteria are derived fromnatural sources and the spray is
classed as organic.
Dipole spray works as a toxin,killing the caterpillars two or
three days after they consumetreated leaves.
It is only effective againstlarvae in their active feeding
stage, so several treatments maybe needed to clear an
infestation.
To use this, mix the powderwith water according to the
(08:37):
instructions and spray acrossthe whole plant you wish to be
protected.
Reapply after rain and alsoevery few days as the bacteria
break down in sunlight.
Even though dipole is organic,safe and effective, you may
prefer a more homemade spraythat's completely free of
chemicals.
To make a quick and easy spray,simply mix equal quantities of
(08:58):
white flour and boiling waterinto a smooth paste, dilute with
enough cold water to make theliquid sprayable and then spray
the affected plant.
As the mixture dries, the flourglues the caterpillar in place
and suffocates them.
While this homemade spray ischemically safe, it can also
spell trouble for beneficialinsects, so please use this with
(09:19):
great care.
Attacking a caterpillar problemon all fronts is the best
approach for long-term success,so try as many of these tactics
as possible.
Be sure to include things likeattracting predator wasps and
other insects to your garden bygrowing plenty of blooming herbs
and flowers.
Continue digging over yourveggie beds throughout winter,
(09:42):
exposing dormant pupae to hungrybirds.
Plant a living mulch, such aswhite clover, around the plants.
The white flowers act on thesame territorial principle as
plastic decoys, while thefragrance masks the attractive
brusic ascent.
Adult butterflies and moths aregenerally benign and beneficial
in a garden.
Unfortunately, the same can'tbe said for their hungry
(10:04):
youngsters.
If you value your brusicas.
It pays to treat cabbagemouthcaterpillars with a firm hand
and keep their numbers in check.
Now I'd like to go over some ofthe questions we hear asked on
this topic.
Are cabbagemoths more of aproblem in certain areas?
Yes, the prevalence andseverity of cabbagemouth
(10:26):
problems can vary in differentregions.
Several factors contribute tothe distribution and impact of
cabbagemoths in specific areas.
For example, cabbagemouthsthrive in moderate to warm
climates.
Regions with consistenttemperatures and suitable
humidity levels provide a morefavorable condition for their
development, and areas wherebrusica vegetables are
(10:49):
extensively cultivated are muchmore likely to experience
cabbagemouth issues.
Large-scale monoculture, whichis the planting of a large crop
of the one variety, can createan ideal habitat for these pests
.
Overwintering is another factor.
Cabbagemoths often overwinteras pupae in the soil.
This means that warmer regionsmay have more continuous
(11:11):
breeding cycles, leading to ahigher population of moths.
We also need to consider thingslike natural predators.
The presence of naturalpredators, such as parasitic
wasps, spiders and birds can allaffect cabbagemouth populations
.
Regions with a diverseecosystem supporting these
predators may experience lowercabbagemouth problems.
(11:33):
And then this human activity.
This includes the physicaltransportation via people of
infested plants or soil.
This can certainly contributeto the spread of cabbagemoths to
new areas.
It's important for farmers andgardeners to be aware of local
conditions and adopt appropriatepest management strategies to
(11:53):
mitigate these problems.
Thank you for watching.
Monitoring, early detection andthe use of integrated pest
management techniques arecrucial for effective control in
any given region.
What is the complete life cycleof cabbage moths?
The entire life cycle of acabbage moth, from egg to death,
can vary depending onenvironmental conditions like
(12:15):
temperature and foodavailability.
On average, though, thecomplete life cycle takes around
four to six weeks.
This cycle consists of fourstages Egg, larvae, which is the
caterpillar, pupa and adult.
Here's a brief overview of eachstage the egg Adult female
(12:37):
cabbage moths lay small,spherical eggs on leaves of host
plants, which are usuallymembers of the Brassica family.
Lavae the caterpillar.
The eggs hatch into larvae.
These caterpillars feed on theleaves, stems and sometimes the
developing heads of yourvegetables, causing damage to
the plants.
Pupa After a period of feedingand growth, the caterpillar
(12:59):
enters the pupil stage.
Pupation often occurs in thesoil or in nearby vegetation.
The pupa is a non-feedingtransformative stage, and adult
the adult cabbage moth emergesfrom the pupa.
The moths are nocturnal andtypically have a brownish or
grayish appearance with mottledpatterns on their wings.
Adult moths are responsible formating and laying eggs,
(13:22):
completing the life cycle.
This life cycle can varysomewhat depending on
environmental conditions and thespecific species of cabbage
moth.
How long does it take forcabbage moth eggs to hatch into
larvae?
The time it takes for this tooccur can vary based on
temperature and environmentalconditions.
(13:43):
Generally speaking, though, ittakes around three to seven days
.
Warmer temperatures oftenaccelerate the hatching process,
while cooler temperatures mayprolong it.
After hatching, the larvaebegin feeding on the host plant,
continuing their growth anddevelopment through subsequent
instas before entering the pupilstage.
How many eggs does one cabbagemoth lay?
(14:07):
Cabbage moths are prolificbreeders, with females capable
of laying hundreds of eggsduring their short adult
lifespan.
This reproductive capabilitycontributes to their potential
as agricultural pests.
What do cabbage moth eggs looklike?
Cabbage moth eggs are tiny andtypically spherical or oval in
(14:30):
shape.
They are most commonly laid inclusters on the underneath of
leaves, but can be laid as asingular egg too.
The colour of these eggs canvary, but they are often light,
yellow or cream coloured.
They are small, measuringaround 0.5 to 1mm in diameter,
so they are very hard to spot.
The female cabbage moth willoften choose the underside of
(14:52):
leaves to attach her eggs.
This provides some protectionfor the developing eggs.
Due to their small size andcolouration, these eggs can be
challenging to spot, especiallywhen scattered amongst the
foliage.
If you suspect the presence ofcabbage moth eggs in your plants
, carefully inspect theunderneath of leaves for small
round structures attached to thesurface.
(15:14):
Early detection of eggs can becrucial for effective pest
management and prevent extensivedamage from the hatching larvae
.
If you have any questions orwould like to discuss this topic
, or any other garden relatedtopic for that matter, please
connect with us and many othergarden enthusiasts in our group
on Facebook, the Seed CollectionCommunity.
(15:36):
You've been listening to how IGrow, produced by the Seed
Collection in Melbourne,australia.
It is our aim to make gardeningmore accessible to more people,
and this podcast is one of themany ways in which we're doing
that.
If you don't already know whowe are, jump online and visit
wwwtheseedcollectioncomau.
(15:58):
You'll find a treasure trove ofgardening information, as well
as a huge range of seeds andgarden supplies and accessories.
That address, again, iswwwtheseedcollectioncomau.
Thanks for listening.
You're listening to how I Grow with the Seed
Collection, and today we'll betalking about how to best manage
cabbage moths, butterflies andcaterpillars in your garden.
In this episode, we'll delveinto how to identify, deal with
and deter these produce thieves.
This is especially helpful forthose of you who love your
brassicas and leafy greens.
Cast an eye over almost anyvegetable patch and you're sure
(00:24):
to see a brassica or two.
This family of veggies ishugely popular with home growers
thanks to its wide variety andrelatively easy cultivation.
Brassicas include plants likecabbage broccoli, rocket
cauliflower, kale, bok choy andBrussels sprouts, just to name a
few.
Unfortunately, it's not onlygardeners who appreciate the
(00:47):
many possibilities thatbrassicas offer.
Cabbage moths and cabbagebutterflies make a beeline for
them and if left to their owndevices, they'll they waste to
your precious crop in next to notime.
So what are cabbage moths andbutterflies?
Here in Australia, there aretwo main species of
brassica-loving insect pests.
Namely, these are cabbage mothsPlutella Zioastella and cabbage
(01:11):
white butterflies, pierrasRapae.
These two insects aren'tactually closely related and
they look very different, butthey do share similar habits,
cause similar problems and aredealt with in similar ways too.
Adult cabbage moths are roughly10 millimeters long and mottled
gray with a diamond pattern ontheir wings.
(01:32):
The more familiar cabbagebutterfly is a little larger, at
around 40 millimeters, and haswhite wings with small black
spots on the corners.
Despite the visual andbiological differences, the
terms cabbage moth and cabbagebutterfly are both widely used
to refer to either species and,as the name suggests, these
(01:54):
pests love to feast on a growingcabbage, but, as if our
cabbages aren't enough for them,they'll actually feast on the
entire brassica family.
The adults are harmless inthemselves, but if given a
chance to lay eggs, an army ofhungry caterpillars will soon
follow.
Cabbage moths produce lightgreenish brown caterpillars with
(02:14):
a darker head, while butterflylarvae are a smooth greenish
blue.
However, it's not necessary topositively identify a species,
because, when it comes to foodcrops, no caterpillars are
particularly welcome.
If they're allowed to feeduninterrupted, the larvae will
chew a network of holes, oftenleading to leaf loss and the
eventual skeletonization anddeath of the plant.
(02:38):
There are some deterrentstechniques, though.
There are three main ways ofdeterring moths from laying eggs
on your brassicas, and theseare netting, companion planting
and decoys.
If you're opting for netting toform a physical barrier, be
sure that it's very fine, sothat it works in stopping the
moths from reaching your plants.
(02:59):
Ensure the net's fully enclosedeach plant, but don't allow the
net to physically touch it.
If the netting is resting onthe brassica, a moth can too,
and you can buy dedicatedbutterfly protection nets.
But if you'd rather reuse orrecycle which is a great option
an old mozzie net will do thetrick, or even a flywire from
(03:20):
window or door screens if youhave some laying around.
It is important to note, though, that netting has a drawback of
preventing more useful access,like that of the moths' natural
predators.
If eggs have already been laid,the caterpillars will have free
rain to feed, safe from birdsand other predators.
So it's best to net prior to aninfestation.
(03:43):
Another option, and this is myfavourite, is companion planting
.
As is often the case, companionplanting can provide a range of
solutions to a caterpillarproblem.
Isn't it fantastic that asolution to a plant problem can
actually be more plants.
First up is planting some whiteclover, which is like a living
(04:04):
mulch.
The white flowers blowing inthe breeze also give the moths
the idea that this spot isalready taken, and they're sent
masks that of the brassicas.
Strong smelling herbs likelavender, sage and rosemary seem
to deter cabbage moths fromsettling in laying eggs.
Try planting them around theedges of your patch to form an
odor barrier that doesn'trestrict your own access.
(04:26):
The extra bonus is that notonly will your brassicas be
afforded some more protection,but you'll get to enjoy the
benefits of these lovely herbstoo.
And if this doesn't work, youcould grow landcress as a dead
end decoy.
Adult moths are strongly drawnto this plant, but the leaves
contain toxins which are lethalto caterpillars.
Any eggs laid on landcress willbe the last in their family
(04:50):
line.
If you've exhausted theseoptions, you could try growing
some decoy plants that the mothslove, like nasturtiums, dill
and mustard.
These will draw the egg layersaway from your main crops as
well as look lovely in yourgarden, but it does risk
encouraging them to hang around.
And finally, we have decoy mothscarecrow.
(05:14):
Surprisingly, cabbage moths areincredibly territorial and
they'll avoid laying eggs wherethere's already competition for
caterpillar food.
Take advantage of this by usingmoth scarecrow to encourage
real moths to find less crowdedareas.
You can buy plastic moth-shapeddecoys to place around your
brassica patch, but it's asimple and fun job to make your
(05:35):
own if you like to get creativenow and then.
To do this, simply cut whiteplastic sheeting or old shopping
bags into roughly moth-shapedpieces of around 40mm across.
Fix these to the end of twigs,skewers or canes and plant them
next to the target plants.
To butterfly eyes, the plasticfluttering in the breeze is a
(05:57):
convincing impression of a rival.
So what if you already have aninfestation?
Unfortunately, cabbage mothsare determined and plentiful,
and even the best deterrentstactics can sometimes fail.
If you're facing an infestation,fast action is important to
save your plants.
Manual methods are the simplestand quickest way to make an
(06:22):
impact.
Pick your brassicas forcaterpillars, particularly on
the undersides of the leaves,but also deeper within the plant
hearts.
Pick off any larvae you findand dispose of them in whichever
permanent way you prefer.
This requires a little bit oftime in the now, but will save
you lots of it in the future.
Repeat this hunt every day andyou can quickly get on top of
(06:44):
the larvae population beforeyour crop is depleted.
To be thorough, also remove anyclutches of eggs to prevent new
larvae from hatching.
If you'd rather not touch them,use a light hose or powerful
garden sprayer to knock them tothe ground.
Once on the soil, they'll beeasy targets for birds, beetles
and other predators.
(07:04):
This method isn't the mostreliable, though, so if you can
opt for picking them off first,these manual methods are
effective when your patch isn'ttoo big or the infestation isn't
too severe.
More serious problems requiresomething a little more drastic,
like anti-caterpillar sprays.
There are plenty of commercialinsecticide sprays for
(07:26):
controlling caterpillars, someorganic and eco-friendly, others
less so Many are based on anatural pesticide called
pyrethrum, which works againstcaterpillars, aphids and many
other pests.
Unfortunately, these can alsocause problems for beneficial
insects like ladybirds.
Because of this, sprays basedon a bacterium called bacillus
(07:50):
thuringiensis are oftenpreferred instead.
These products are mostcommonly sold under the dipole
brand.
These sprays have severalstrong advantages.
They're highly selective, onlyaffecting leaf-eating
caterpillars among insects.
They're harmless for birds andother wildlife.
The sprays are safe for use onfood crops with no withholding
(08:11):
period.
The bacteria are derived fromnatural sources and the spray is
classed as organic.
Dipole spray works as a toxin,killing the caterpillars two or
three days after they consumetreated leaves.
It is only effective againstlarvae in their active feeding
stage, so several treatments maybe needed to clear an
infestation.
To use this, mix the powderwith water according to the
(08:37):
instructions and spray acrossthe whole plant you wish to be
protected.
Reapply after rain and alsoevery few days as the bacteria
break down in sunlight.
Even though dipole is organic,safe and effective, you may
prefer a more homemade spraythat's completely free of
chemicals.
To make a quick and easy spray,simply mix equal quantities of
(08:58):
white flour and boiling waterinto a smooth paste, dilute with
enough cold water to make theliquid sprayable and then spray
the affected plant.
As the mixture dries, the flourglues the caterpillar in place
and suffocates them.
While this homemade spray ischemically safe, it can also
spell trouble for beneficialinsects, so please use this with
(09:19):
great care.
Attacking a caterpillar problemon all fronts is the best
approach for long-term success,so try as many of these tactics
as possible.
Be sure to include things likeattracting predator wasps and
other insects to your garden bygrowing plenty of blooming herbs
and flowers.
Continue digging over yourveggie beds throughout winter,
(09:42):
exposing dormant pupae to hungrybirds.
Plant a living mulch, such aswhite clover, around the plants.
The white flowers act on thesame territorial principle as
plastic decoys, while thefragrance masks the attractive
brusic ascent.
Adult butterflies and moths aregenerally benign and beneficial
in a garden.
Unfortunately, the same can'tbe said for their hungry
(10:04):
youngsters.
If you value your brusicas.
It pays to treat cabbagemouthcaterpillars with a firm hand
and keep their numbers in check.
Now I'd like to go over some ofthe questions we hear asked on
this topic.
Are cabbagemoths more of aproblem in certain areas?
Yes, the prevalence andseverity of cabbagemouth
(10:26):
problems can vary in differentregions.
Several factors contribute tothe distribution and impact of
cabbagemoths in specific areas.
For example, cabbagemouthsthrive in moderate to warm
climates.
Regions with consistenttemperatures and suitable
humidity levels provide a morefavorable condition for their
development, and areas wherebrusica vegetables are
(10:49):
extensively cultivated are muchmore likely to experience
cabbagemouth issues.
Large-scale monoculture, whichis the planting of a large crop
of the one variety, can createan ideal habitat for these pests
.
Overwintering is another factor.
Cabbagemoths often overwinteras pupae in the soil.
This means that warmer regionsmay have more continuous
(11:11):
breeding cycles, leading to ahigher population of moths.
We also need to consider thingslike natural predators.
The presence of naturalpredators, such as parasitic
wasps, spiders and birds can allaffect cabbagemouth populations
.
Regions with a diverseecosystem supporting these
predators may experience lowercabbagemouth problems.
(11:33):
And then this human activity.
This includes the physicaltransportation via people of
infested plants or soil.
This can certainly contributeto the spread of cabbagemoths to
new areas.
It's important for farmers andgardeners to be aware of local
conditions and adopt appropriatepest management strategies to
(11:53):
mitigate these problems.
Thank you for watching.
Monitoring, early detection andthe use of integrated pest
management techniques arecrucial for effective control in
any given region.
What is the complete life cycleof cabbage moths?
The entire life cycle of acabbage moth, from egg to death,
can vary depending onenvironmental conditions like
(12:15):
temperature and foodavailability.
On average, though, thecomplete life cycle takes around
four to six weeks.
This cycle consists of fourstages Egg, larvae, which is the
caterpillar, pupa and adult.
Here's a brief overview of eachstage the egg Adult female
(12:37):
cabbage moths lay small,spherical eggs on leaves of host
plants, which are usuallymembers of the Brassica family.
Lavae the caterpillar.
The eggs hatch into larvae.
These caterpillars feed on theleaves, stems and sometimes the
developing heads of yourvegetables, causing damage to
the plants.
Pupa After a period of feedingand growth, the caterpillar
(12:59):
enters the pupil stage.
Pupation often occurs in thesoil or in nearby vegetation.
The pupa is a non-feedingtransformative stage, and adult
the adult cabbage moth emergesfrom the pupa.
The moths are nocturnal andtypically have a brownish or
grayish appearance with mottledpatterns on their wings.
Adult moths are responsible formating and laying eggs,
(13:22):
completing the life cycle.
This life cycle can varysomewhat depending on
environmental conditions and thespecific species of cabbage
moth.
How long does it take forcabbage moth eggs to hatch into
larvae?
The time it takes for this tooccur can vary based on
temperature and environmentalconditions.
(13:43):
Generally speaking, though, ittakes around three to seven days
.
Warmer temperatures oftenaccelerate the hatching process,
while cooler temperatures mayprolong it.
After hatching, the larvaebegin feeding on the host plant,
continuing their growth anddevelopment through subsequent
instas before entering the pupilstage.
How many eggs does one cabbagemoth lay?
(14:07):
Cabbage moths are prolificbreeders, with females capable
of laying hundreds of eggsduring their short adult
lifespan.
This reproductive capabilitycontributes to their potential
as agricultural pests.
What do cabbage moth eggs looklike?
Cabbage moth eggs are tiny andtypically spherical or oval in
(14:30):
shape.
They are most commonly laid inclusters on the underneath of
leaves, but can be laid as asingular egg too.
The colour of these eggs canvary, but they are often light,
yellow or cream coloured.
They are small, measuringaround 0.5 to 1mm in diameter,
so they are very hard to spot.
The female cabbage moth willoften choose the underside of
(14:52):
leaves to attach her eggs.
This provides some protectionfor the developing eggs.
Due to their small size andcolouration, these eggs can be
challenging to spot, especiallywhen scattered amongst the
foliage.
If you suspect the presence ofcabbage moth eggs in your plants
, carefully inspect theunderneath of leaves for small
round structures attached to thesurface.
(15:14):
Early detection of eggs can becrucial for effective pest
management and prevent extensivedamage from the hatching larvae
.
If you have any questions orwould like to discuss this topic
, or any other garden relatedtopic for that matter, please
connect with us and many othergarden enthusiasts in our group
on Facebook, the Seed CollectionCommunity.
(15:36):
You've been listening to how IGrow, produced by the Seed
Collection in Melbourne,australia.
It is our aim to make gardeningmore accessible to more people,
and this podcast is one of themany ways in which we're doing
that.
If you don't already know whowe are, jump online and visit
wwwtheseedcollectioncomau.
(15:58):
You'll find a treasure trove ofgardening information, as well
as a huge range of seeds andgarden supplies and accessories.
That address, again, iswwwtheseedcollectioncomau.
Thanks for listening.
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