February 13, 2024 • 19 mins
Unlock the secrets of transforming your kitchen scraps and garden waste into gold for your garden in our latest podcast episode, where we delve into the world of composting. Prepare to be empowered with knowledge as we guide you through the simplicity and multitude of benefits that composting brings to your backyard and the planet. From setting up the perfect compost bin or pile to mastering the delicate balance of nitrogen, carbon, water, and oxygen, we've got every base covered. Our conversation isn't just about the ‘how’, but also the impactful ‘why’—enriching your soil, slashing landfill contributions, and significantly cutting down on greenhouse gases.
We've also packed this episode with practical tips to keep your compost pile thriving in every season, even when the winter frost bites. Learn how to maintain that sponge-like moisture level and why tossing in a mix of greens and browns is essential. Our expert advice doesn't stop there; we tackle common composting quandaries like adding citrus peels and keeping unwanted odors at bay. And for those looking to add a little wriggle to their composting routine, we discuss how worms can magically accelerate the process. Tune in for an episode that's sure to nourish your eco-conscious spirit and help you give back to the earth, one compost heap at a time.
'How I Grow' is produced by The Seed Collection Pty Ltd.
Find out more about us here: www.theseedcollection.com.au
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Transcript
Episode Transcript
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Speaker 1 (00:00):
You're listening to how I Grow with the Seed
Collection, and today we'll betalking about composting.
This episode is packed full ofpractical information on how to
create and best manage a compostsystem at your home.
First, a brief rundown on whatcomposting is.
Composting is a process whichinvolves converting your kitchen
(00:22):
and garden waste into humus.
Humus is then added to yourgarden soil.
Humus is the organic componentof soil formed by the
decomposition of plant matter bysoil microorganisms.
It reintroduces vital nutrientsand builds soil structure,
which encourages better plantgrowth and better soil fertility
(00:43):
too.
It is very easy to do and canbe done at little or no cost at
all.
Just a few of the benefitsderived from composting include,
but are not limited to,improving the soil quality and
vitality of your garden.
This occurs by the compostreleasing rich nutrients into
the soil and helping to buildsoil structure, preventing
(01:05):
greenhouse gas emissions byencouraging aerobic breakdown of
organic material, reducing thevolume of garden and kitchen
waste which would otherwise goto landfill, recycling valuable
nutrients without the use ofartificial fertilizers.
The microscopic organismswithin compost help to prevent
plant disease and aerate thesoil.
(01:27):
All of this and you can save afew dollars by not having to buy
fertilizers.
So how does composting actuallywork?
Within a composting system,organic material is confined.
This accelerates decompositionand releases nutrients into the
soil at a faster rate.
There are two main types of homecomposts, and these are bin
(01:50):
composts and pile composts.
With bin composting, the methodinvolves using a designated
container or bin with lids,optional, to hold and manage
compost materials.
Bins can be purchased orcreated from various recycled
materials like wood, plastic ormetal.
Composting this way helpscontain the materials, making
(02:12):
the process that bit neater andmore organized.
It also facilitates bettercontrol over factors like
moisture, aeration and turning.
Then we have pile composting.
This method is more informaland cost effective, requiring no
special containers at all.
It is best suited for largerquantities of material and it's
(02:32):
a straightforward option forthose who prefer a less
structured approach.
This is where organic materialsare heaped into a mound or pile
directly on the earth.
Some people who use this methodalso choose to frame or
allocate a general area usingsomething informal and removable
like chicken wire, or even justa specific corner of the yard.
(02:53):
This helps to ensure that thepile won't fall and spread out
along the ground.
Now, while pile composts lackthe structure of a bin, they
allow for good aeration and thecomposting process occurs more
naturally.
Both bin and pile compostingsystems will effectively break
down organic matter intonutrient rich compost.
(03:13):
The choice between the twooften depends on personal
preference, available space andthe amount of compostable
material that your householdgenerates.
An effective composting system,of either variety, involves the
following components, allworking together Nitrogen these
are the green ingredients.
Your compost heat must have agenerous supply of nitrogen.
(03:36):
This stimulates the growth andreproduction of organisms that
oxidize the carbon components.
These are considered the greenand wet components in any
compost system and includekitchen scraps, fresh lawn
clippings and even weeds pulledfrom your garden.
While these components arecritical to the process, your
heap shouldn't be comprisedsolely of this material, or it
(03:57):
will become sloppy and not makeeffective compost.
Another is carbon.
These elements supply the heatof your compost pile.
Things containing carbon aregenerally brown and dry products
like autumn leaves, branchesand straw, and excess of these
components is not good for thecompost heap either, because the
carbon itself will take a verylong time to break down.
(04:20):
Next we have water.
Your compost pile should bemoist, without ever being
soaking.
Wet Moisture enables andencourages decomposition, but
too much of this can lead towater logging or your compost
becoming anaerobic, which iswithout air.
And lastly, oxygen.
This component facilitates thedecomposition of all other
(04:40):
components.
To introduce oxygen into yourheap, all you need to do is turn
over the componentsperiodically.
Weekly should be plenty.
You can do this with apitchfork or, if you have a
tumbler compost, simply byturning the handle to rotate the
barrel.
So what ingredients are best forcompost?
Well, as mentioned, the vitalingredients are the green and
(05:02):
brown ingredients.
To go a little more in depth onthese, this can include things
like fruit and vegetable scraps,grass clippings, garden weeds,
flowers, even seaweed and kelp.
You can also include greenfleshy, garden trimmings and
coffee grounds, not to forgetthings like dead plants and
prunings.
Just be sure not to put anydiseased plants in there.
(05:24):
Straw, hay, pine needles, evenwood ash can be added.
There are also things likeshredded newspaper, cardboard,
dry lint and sawdust that can bereally beneficial too.
Just be sure that any newspaperor magazine material isn't of
the glossy variety.
It's also helpful to cut up allof your compost deposits into
(05:45):
small pieces wherever practical.
This encourages decompositionto occur faster and in a more
uniform manner.
Try to remove any seeds fromweeds or prunings before you add
these to your compost, andadding aggressive type plants or
weeds like blackberries orcooch grass, which spreads via
runners, is best avoided.
Adding large chunks of materialshould be steered clear of, too
(06:08):
.
Items that are too bulky willtake too long to break down.
More specific things thatshouldn't be added to your
compost include dairy products,meats, bones, fish or bread.
Also, be sure to exclude anynon-organic materials, things
like plastic, glass or metal.
Composting in four simple steps.
(06:28):
Step one is choosing yourcompost site.
Your compost pile should besituated in an area that's well
drained and also receives somedaily shade.
The reason for this is that toomuch sun will dry out your
compost pile.
This will mean that morefrequent watering is required to
keep all the components activeand moist.
If you are starting yourcompost in a large bin, make
(06:52):
sure it has good drainage in itsbase, so that water doesn't
accumulate at the bottom.
It is also a good idea to avoidplacing your compost bin too
far out of your way.
Aim for an area that you willactually take your kitchen
scraps to, so they don't end upin the household bin.
Step two choose your compostcomponents.
(07:14):
Make sure that you have a goodmixture of the components we've
just talked about the green andbrown ingredients.
Along with moisture too, it'salso beneficial to add some
mature compost or actual gardensoil to your new compost as well
.
This will introducemicroorganisms, which will help
accelerate the process.
Step three establish layers inyour pile.
(07:36):
Start with the thickest, mostcoarse material at the bottom of
your compost heap, around 10 to15 centimetres thick.
This will include things liketwigs and small branches and
facilitate draining.
The next layer should becomprised of garden clippings
and kitchen scraps, the greeningredients, followed by the
drier brown ingredients, likeleaves and straw, with each
(08:00):
layer added, make sure toinclude enough water to keep the
heat moist but never wet.
Continue alternating betweengreen and brown layers until you
have used all your ingredientsor filled your bin.
Finally, add some garden soilor mature compost to the top of
the pile to introduce somemicroorganisms.
Adding in some worms is a greatidea too.
(08:22):
Step four now you just need tomaintain your compost pile.
Each week or so, use a gardenfork to turn all the components
over.
This will make sure that yourcompost heap stays well aerated,
allowing oxygen to do its workin facilitating decomposition.
Water your compost heap asrequired, being careful not to
overwater.
(08:42):
The compost heap should be keptmoist, but never soggy or wet.
While composts are fairly easycare, there are a few problems
that can develop.
A good time to check on yourpile is during periodic watering
or turning, so that if you spotany of these issues, you can
correct them promptly.
There are six main things tolook out for here.
Number one is a compost thatemits a really foul odour.
(09:05):
One reason for this may be thatyour heap is too wet or that
not enough oxygen has beenintroduced into the pile.
Another common cause is havingtoo many green ingredients and
not enough brown.
This can be corrected by addingin dry leaves, garden lime or
ash to reduce the acidity.
Turning the heap more oftenwill help too, as can providing
(09:26):
a floor of wooden planks toimprove drainage.
Number two is pests.
If you follow all of theinstructions provided, it's very
unlikely that mice or rats willbe attracted to your compost
heap, but some additionalpreventative measures can't hurt
.
These include turning thecompost frequently to discourage
habitation, including a layerof fine wire under the compost
(09:47):
bin or heap and immediatelycovering any food that is added
to the pile.
You can do this with othergarden waste or soil.
Alternatively, if pets are aparticular and already present
issue in your garden.
It's recommended to use anenclosed compost bin with the
lid.
Number three a slow maturingcompost heap.
Sometimes this means that oneof the key components is missing
(10:11):
or is present in insufficientquantity, like oxygen or water.
It could also mean that thecompost pile is not hot enough.
This can be corrected by addingnitrogen-rich material like
kitchen scraps or garden waste,turning the heap frequently to
add oxygen and adding a littlemore water to help.
Number four components mattingtogether.
(10:32):
This generally happens when wetmaterials are introduced to the
pile.
The problem is that mattedmaterials inhibit aeration, so
they should either be broken upwith a pitchfork or set aside
altogether until they dry out.
Number five if you see anyinsects or flies buzzing over
the pile, this is a naturaloccurrence, but it can be
(10:53):
discouraged by covering anyorganic materials which may be
attracting them.
A layer of grass clippings isgreat for this, and so is lime
or calcium.
And the last one, number six,is actually something that you
do want to see Steam from yourcompost pile.
This is not a bad thing.
This is exactly what you wantto see.
(11:13):
It indicates that themicroorganisms are doing their
job and decomposition isunderway.
Now let's go over identifyingwhen your compost is ready.
The amount of time it takes toconvert your kitchen or garden
waste into usable compost variessignificantly for each
household.
Anywhere from three weeks tosix months is generally
(11:34):
considered average.
It all depends on things likeweather, the ingredients you
have added and your compostingmethod.
As a general rule of thumb, youcan expect your compost to
mature much faster in the springand summer than it does in
autumn and winter.
This is primarily due to thewarmer weather.
Identifying when it's ready foruse is rather easy.
(11:55):
Simply inspect your compostheap regularly.
To begin with, your compostwill look and smell like a mix
of garden and kitchen scraps.
Over time, though, you'llnotice it beginning to change.
You should start to notice itsmell reducing alongside the
texture of the compost changing,and toward the end your compost
heap should look and smell likedark rich soil and be crumbly
(12:17):
in its texture.
When you have compost like this, it's ready to use.
It's completely normal to havesome uncomposted material left
in your mature compost.
These are generally larger orwoody items that need a little
longer to break down Things likesticks, corn cobs, fruit pips
and nut shells.
Generally speaking, a few straysticks or shells in your
(12:39):
compost aren't a problem, but ifyou have an excess of these
materials, it is best to removethem.
They can be picked out by handor screened through using a
garden sieve.
However you do, this is fine.
Then all removed items cansimply be added back into your
next compost.
Next, I'd like to go over someof the most commonly asked
questions we hear aroundcomposting why can't I put meat
(13:03):
into my home compost?
There are several reasons foravoiding this, the main of which
is that it poses a potentialhealth risk.
Meats can become infected withbacteria like E coli, salmonella
or Listeria.
If infected meat contaminatesyour compost pile, it risks the
bacteria transferring to laterbe spread by you or throughout
(13:23):
your garden.
Although this is more likely tooccur with raw meat, avoiding
composting meat of any sort issafest.
Second to this, rotting meatwill also quickly attract the
attention of household pests androdents, as well as disrupt the
nutrient ratios and slow thedecomposition of your compost.
What is the ideal moisture levelfor compost?
(13:45):
The ideal moisture level foryour compost is similar to a
rung-out sponge.
It should be damp but neverwaterlogged.
Regularly check the moisture inyour compost and add water if
it feels too dry, or more brownmaterials if it feels too wet.
Proper moisture ensures themicrobes responsible for
decomposition are active.
Do I need to compost in layersor can I mix everything together
(14:08):
?
Mixing everything all togetheris perfectly fine.
The key is to maintain a goodbalance of green and brown
materials throughout the pile.
Turning the compost pileregularly will aid in even and
more timely decomposition.
Can I compost in the winter orduring cold weather?
You certainly can.
You may just need to adjustyour composting routine during
(14:29):
these months.
This is because microbialactivity tends to slow down in
colder temperatures.
The less activity paired withcolder temps means slower
decomposition.
While we've established thatturning the compost helps to
aerate it, turning toofrequently in winter can lead to
heat loss.
Here are some generalguidelines for composting during
winter.
(14:50):
Aim to turn your pile everythree to five weeks rather than
the weekly turning recommendedduring the warmer months.
This will allow your compost toretain heat, which is essential
for many reasons.
Some of these reasons includeassisting with the speed at
which materials break down,eliminating pathogens and
breaking down complex organiccompounds into readily available
(15:12):
nutrients.
Consider some winter insulationfor your compost with materials
like straw, hay or leaves.
A thick layer about six toeight inches can help trap heat
within the pile and protect itfrom the extreme cold.
Do be careful to make sure thatyou maintain a healthy moisture
balance when doing this, though.
Too much dry material and notenough wet ones will dry out
(15:33):
your compost and dramaticallyslow decomposition.
It's particularly importantduring the colder months to be
sure your choppy materials intosmaller pieces before adding
them.
Smaller particles decomposemore quickly, which can help
maintain some level of activityin the pile.
Winter conditions, includingthe severity of temperatures,
will vary in different climatesand areas.
(15:55):
Monitoring your composttemperature, moisture and
overall appearance will give youinsights into how well it's
decomposing during these months,and it will be the best
indicator of any necessarychanges you need to make.
Why is composting better for theenvironment?
Don't food scraps do the samething in landfill?
Not quite.
Composting reduces greenhousegas emissions, and proper
(16:16):
composting can help mitigatethese.
What happens in your homecompost is actually a world away
from what occurs in landfill.
There's no aeration inlandfills, and when organic
matter breaks down withoutproper aeration, it produces
methane, a potent greenhouse gas.
On the other hand, compostingin an aerobic, oxygen rich
(16:39):
environment generates carbondioxide instead.
By diverting organic waste awayfrom landfills, we not only
contribute to reducing theenvironmental impact of methane
emissions, but we provide ahealthy boost for our garden,
become more self-sufficient andsave space in the household bins
too.
Are there any negative impactsfrom using compost before it's
(17:01):
ready?
Unfortunately, there are.
Compost that is underdevelopedcan cause a range of issues,
including nutrient imbalance andthe introduction of pathogens
and weeds.
Immature compost may not have abalanced nutrient profile.
If the composting process isn'tcomplete, certain nutrients can
be tied up in the organicmatter and not readily available
(17:23):
to your plants.
This can lead to nutrientimbalances later, and it's
particularly undesirable ifyou're wanting to use the
compost in lieu of any storebought enhancers.
Using compost too early alsoincreases the likelihood of
introducing pathogens and weedsto your freshly prepared garden
bed.
These pathogens and unwantedguests would have otherwise been
(17:43):
left to reach high enoughtemperatures and die off with
the natural and complete cycleof a fully matured compost.
Can I compost citrus peels?
The short answer is yes, but itis important not to add too
much of these or a large amountat any one time.
Citrus peels are very acidic,so it's advisable to not only
add small amounts at a time, butbreak it up into smaller
(18:06):
portions as well.
These will spread them out moreevenly when you turn your
compost.
How can I prevent my compostpile from smelling bad?
The answer to this isessentially the same as,
following the practices we'vegone over, ensure a good balance
of green and brown materials,turn the pile regularly, manage
moisture levels and avoid addingmeat, dairy and greasy
(18:29):
materials.
Then I add worms to a regularcompost bin.
Most certainly, adding worms toyour home compost bin can
create a more dynamic andefficient system, but it's
entirely optional.
Traditional composting withoutadding worms can still yield
successful results.
If you have any questions orwould like to discuss this topic
(18:50):
or any other garden-relatedtopic, please connect with us
and many other gardenenthusiasts in our group on
Facebook, the Seed CollectionCommunity.
You've been listening to how IGrow, produced by the Seed
Collection in Melbourne,australia.
It's our aim to make gardeningmore accessible to more people,
and this podcast is one of themany ways in which we're doing
(19:11):
that.
If you don't already know whowe are, jump online and visit
wwwtheseedcollectioncomau.
You'll find a treasure trove ofgardening information, as well
as a huge range of seeds, gardensupplies and accessories.
That had us again iswwwtheseedcollectioncomau.
(19:34):
Thanks for listening.
You're listening to how I Grow with the Seed
Collection, and today we'll betalking about composting.
This episode is packed full ofpractical information on how to
create and best manage a compostsystem at your home.
First, a brief rundown on whatcomposting is.
Composting is a process whichinvolves converting your kitchen
(00:22):
and garden waste into humus.
Humus is then added to yourgarden soil.
Humus is the organic componentof soil formed by the
decomposition of plant matter bysoil microorganisms.
It reintroduces vital nutrientsand builds soil structure,
which encourages better plantgrowth and better soil fertility
(00:43):
too.
It is very easy to do and canbe done at little or no cost at
all.
Just a few of the benefitsderived from composting include,
but are not limited to,improving the soil quality and
vitality of your garden.
This occurs by the compostreleasing rich nutrients into
the soil and helping to buildsoil structure, preventing
(01:05):
greenhouse gas emissions byencouraging aerobic breakdown of
organic material, reducing thevolume of garden and kitchen
waste which would otherwise goto landfill, recycling valuable
nutrients without the use ofartificial fertilizers.
The microscopic organismswithin compost help to prevent
plant disease and aerate thesoil.
(01:27):
All of this and you can save afew dollars by not having to buy
fertilizers.
So how does composting actuallywork?
Within a composting system,organic material is confined.
This accelerates decompositionand releases nutrients into the
soil at a faster rate.
There are two main types of homecomposts, and these are bin
(01:50):
composts and pile composts.
With bin composting, the methodinvolves using a designated
container or bin with lids,optional, to hold and manage
compost materials.
Bins can be purchased orcreated from various recycled
materials like wood, plastic ormetal.
Composting this way helpscontain the materials, making
(02:12):
the process that bit neater andmore organized.
It also facilitates bettercontrol over factors like
moisture, aeration and turning.
Then we have pile composting.
This method is more informaland cost effective, requiring no
special containers at all.
It is best suited for largerquantities of material and it's
(02:32):
a straightforward option forthose who prefer a less
structured approach.
This is where organic materialsare heaped into a mound or pile
directly on the earth.
Some people who use this methodalso choose to frame or
allocate a general area usingsomething informal and removable
like chicken wire, or even justa specific corner of the yard.
(02:53):
This helps to ensure that thepile won't fall and spread out
along the ground.
Now, while pile composts lackthe structure of a bin, they
allow for good aeration and thecomposting process occurs more
naturally.
Both bin and pile compostingsystems will effectively break
down organic matter intonutrient rich compost.
(03:13):
The choice between the twooften depends on personal
preference, available space andthe amount of compostable
material that your householdgenerates.
An effective composting system,of either variety, involves the
following components, allworking together Nitrogen these
are the green ingredients.
Your compost heat must have agenerous supply of nitrogen.
(03:36):
This stimulates the growth andreproduction of organisms that
oxidize the carbon components.
These are considered the greenand wet components in any
compost system and includekitchen scraps, fresh lawn
clippings and even weeds pulledfrom your garden.
While these components arecritical to the process, your
heap shouldn't be comprisedsolely of this material, or it
(03:57):
will become sloppy and not makeeffective compost.
Another is carbon.
These elements supply the heatof your compost pile.
Things containing carbon aregenerally brown and dry products
like autumn leaves, branchesand straw, and excess of these
components is not good for thecompost heap either, because the
carbon itself will take a verylong time to break down.
(04:20):
Next we have water.
Your compost pile should bemoist, without ever being
soaking.
Wet Moisture enables andencourages decomposition, but
too much of this can lead towater logging or your compost
becoming anaerobic, which iswithout air.
And lastly, oxygen.
This component facilitates thedecomposition of all other
(04:40):
components.
To introduce oxygen into yourheap, all you need to do is turn
over the componentsperiodically.
Weekly should be plenty.
You can do this with apitchfork or, if you have a
tumbler compost, simply byturning the handle to rotate the
barrel.
So what ingredients are best forcompost?
Well, as mentioned, the vitalingredients are the green and
(05:02):
brown ingredients.
To go a little more in depth onthese, this can include things
like fruit and vegetable scraps,grass clippings, garden weeds,
flowers, even seaweed and kelp.
You can also include greenfleshy, garden trimmings and
coffee grounds, not to forgetthings like dead plants and
prunings.
Just be sure not to put anydiseased plants in there.
(05:24):
Straw, hay, pine needles, evenwood ash can be added.
There are also things likeshredded newspaper, cardboard,
dry lint and sawdust that can bereally beneficial too.
Just be sure that any newspaperor magazine material isn't of
the glossy variety.
It's also helpful to cut up allof your compost deposits into
(05:45):
small pieces wherever practical.
This encourages decompositionto occur faster and in a more
uniform manner.
Try to remove any seeds fromweeds or prunings before you add
these to your compost, andadding aggressive type plants or
weeds like blackberries orcooch grass, which spreads via
runners, is best avoided.
Adding large chunks of materialshould be steered clear of, too
(06:08):
.
Items that are too bulky willtake too long to break down.
More specific things thatshouldn't be added to your
compost include dairy products,meats, bones, fish or bread.
Also, be sure to exclude anynon-organic materials, things
like plastic, glass or metal.
Composting in four simple steps.
(06:28):
Step one is choosing yourcompost site.
Your compost pile should besituated in an area that's well
drained and also receives somedaily shade.
The reason for this is that toomuch sun will dry out your
compost pile.
This will mean that morefrequent watering is required to
keep all the components activeand moist.
If you are starting yourcompost in a large bin, make
(06:52):
sure it has good drainage in itsbase, so that water doesn't
accumulate at the bottom.
It is also a good idea to avoidplacing your compost bin too
far out of your way.
Aim for an area that you willactually take your kitchen
scraps to, so they don't end upin the household bin.
Step two choose your compostcomponents.
(07:14):
Make sure that you have a goodmixture of the components we've
just talked about the green andbrown ingredients.
Along with moisture too, it'salso beneficial to add some
mature compost or actual gardensoil to your new compost as well
.
This will introducemicroorganisms, which will help
accelerate the process.
Step three establish layers inyour pile.
(07:36):
Start with the thickest, mostcoarse material at the bottom of
your compost heap, around 10 to15 centimetres thick.
This will include things liketwigs and small branches and
facilitate draining.
The next layer should becomprised of garden clippings
and kitchen scraps, the greeningredients, followed by the
drier brown ingredients, likeleaves and straw, with each
(08:00):
layer added, make sure toinclude enough water to keep the
heat moist but never wet.
Continue alternating betweengreen and brown layers until you
have used all your ingredientsor filled your bin.
Finally, add some garden soilor mature compost to the top of
the pile to introduce somemicroorganisms.
Adding in some worms is a greatidea too.
(08:22):
Step four now you just need tomaintain your compost pile.
Each week or so, use a gardenfork to turn all the components
over.
This will make sure that yourcompost heap stays well aerated,
allowing oxygen to do its workin facilitating decomposition.
Water your compost heap asrequired, being careful not to
overwater.
(08:42):
The compost heap should be keptmoist, but never soggy or wet.
While composts are fairly easycare, there are a few problems
that can develop.
A good time to check on yourpile is during periodic watering
or turning, so that if you spotany of these issues, you can
correct them promptly.
There are six main things tolook out for here.
Number one is a compost thatemits a really foul odour.
(09:05):
One reason for this may be thatyour heap is too wet or that
not enough oxygen has beenintroduced into the pile.
Another common cause is havingtoo many green ingredients and
not enough brown.
This can be corrected by addingin dry leaves, garden lime or
ash to reduce the acidity.
Turning the heap more oftenwill help too, as can providing
(09:26):
a floor of wooden planks toimprove drainage.
Number two is pests.
If you follow all of theinstructions provided, it's very
unlikely that mice or rats willbe attracted to your compost
heap, but some additionalpreventative measures can't hurt
.
These include turning thecompost frequently to discourage
habitation, including a layerof fine wire under the compost
(09:47):
bin or heap and immediatelycovering any food that is added
to the pile.
You can do this with othergarden waste or soil.
Alternatively, if pets are aparticular and already present
issue in your garden.
It's recommended to use anenclosed compost bin with the
lid.
Number three a slow maturingcompost heap.
Sometimes this means that oneof the key components is missing
(10:11):
or is present in insufficientquantity, like oxygen or water.
It could also mean that thecompost pile is not hot enough.
This can be corrected by addingnitrogen-rich material like
kitchen scraps or garden waste,turning the heap frequently to
add oxygen and adding a littlemore water to help.
Number four components mattingtogether.
(10:32):
This generally happens when wetmaterials are introduced to the
pile.
The problem is that mattedmaterials inhibit aeration, so
they should either be broken upwith a pitchfork or set aside
altogether until they dry out.
Number five if you see anyinsects or flies buzzing over
the pile, this is a naturaloccurrence, but it can be
(10:53):
discouraged by covering anyorganic materials which may be
attracting them.
A layer of grass clippings isgreat for this, and so is lime
or calcium.
And the last one, number six,is actually something that you
do want to see Steam from yourcompost pile.
This is not a bad thing.
This is exactly what you wantto see.
(11:13):
It indicates that themicroorganisms are doing their
job and decomposition isunderway.
Now let's go over identifyingwhen your compost is ready.
The amount of time it takes toconvert your kitchen or garden
waste into usable compost variessignificantly for each
household.
Anywhere from three weeks tosix months is generally
(11:34):
considered average.
It all depends on things likeweather, the ingredients you
have added and your compostingmethod.
As a general rule of thumb, youcan expect your compost to
mature much faster in the springand summer than it does in
autumn and winter.
This is primarily due to thewarmer weather.
Identifying when it's ready foruse is rather easy.
(11:55):
Simply inspect your compostheap regularly.
To begin with, your compostwill look and smell like a mix
of garden and kitchen scraps.
Over time, though, you'llnotice it beginning to change.
You should start to notice itsmell reducing alongside the
texture of the compost changing,and toward the end your compost
heap should look and smell likedark rich soil and be crumbly
(12:17):
in its texture.
When you have compost like this, it's ready to use.
It's completely normal to havesome uncomposted material left
in your mature compost.
These are generally larger orwoody items that need a little
longer to break down Things likesticks, corn cobs, fruit pips
and nut shells.
Generally speaking, a few straysticks or shells in your
(12:39):
compost aren't a problem, but ifyou have an excess of these
materials, it is best to removethem.
They can be picked out by handor screened through using a
garden sieve.
However you do, this is fine.
Then all removed items cansimply be added back into your
next compost.
Next, I'd like to go over someof the most commonly asked
questions we hear aroundcomposting why can't I put meat
(13:03):
into my home compost?
There are several reasons foravoiding this, the main of which
is that it poses a potentialhealth risk.
Meats can become infected withbacteria like E coli, salmonella
or Listeria.
If infected meat contaminatesyour compost pile, it risks the
bacteria transferring to laterbe spread by you or throughout
(13:23):
your garden.
Although this is more likely tooccur with raw meat, avoiding
composting meat of any sort issafest.
Second to this, rotting meatwill also quickly attract the
attention of household pests androdents, as well as disrupt the
nutrient ratios and slow thedecomposition of your compost.
What is the ideal moisture levelfor compost?
(13:45):
The ideal moisture level foryour compost is similar to a
rung-out sponge.
It should be damp but neverwaterlogged.
Regularly check the moisture inyour compost and add water if
it feels too dry, or more brownmaterials if it feels too wet.
Proper moisture ensures themicrobes responsible for
decomposition are active.
Do I need to compost in layersor can I mix everything together
(14:08):
?
Mixing everything all togetheris perfectly fine.
The key is to maintain a goodbalance of green and brown
materials throughout the pile.
Turning the compost pileregularly will aid in even and
more timely decomposition.
Can I compost in the winter orduring cold weather?
You certainly can.
You may just need to adjustyour composting routine during
(14:29):
these months.
This is because microbialactivity tends to slow down in
colder temperatures.
The less activity paired withcolder temps means slower
decomposition.
While we've established thatturning the compost helps to
aerate it, turning toofrequently in winter can lead to
heat loss.
Here are some generalguidelines for composting during
winter.
(14:50):
Aim to turn your pile everythree to five weeks rather than
the weekly turning recommendedduring the warmer months.
This will allow your compost toretain heat, which is essential
for many reasons.
Some of these reasons includeassisting with the speed at
which materials break down,eliminating pathogens and
breaking down complex organiccompounds into readily available
(15:12):
nutrients.
Consider some winter insulationfor your compost with materials
like straw, hay or leaves.
A thick layer about six toeight inches can help trap heat
within the pile and protect itfrom the extreme cold.
Do be careful to make sure thatyou maintain a healthy moisture
balance when doing this, though.
Too much dry material and notenough wet ones will dry out
(15:33):
your compost and dramaticallyslow decomposition.
It's particularly importantduring the colder months to be
sure your choppy materials intosmaller pieces before adding
them.
Smaller particles decomposemore quickly, which can help
maintain some level of activityin the pile.
Winter conditions, includingthe severity of temperatures,
will vary in different climatesand areas.
(15:55):
Monitoring your composttemperature, moisture and
overall appearance will give youinsights into how well it's
decomposing during these months,and it will be the best
indicator of any necessarychanges you need to make.
Why is composting better for theenvironment?
Don't food scraps do the samething in landfill?
Not quite.
Composting reduces greenhousegas emissions, and proper
(16:16):
composting can help mitigatethese.
What happens in your homecompost is actually a world away
from what occurs in landfill.
There's no aeration inlandfills, and when organic
matter breaks down withoutproper aeration, it produces
methane, a potent greenhouse gas.
On the other hand, compostingin an aerobic, oxygen rich
(16:39):
environment generates carbondioxide instead.
By diverting organic waste awayfrom landfills, we not only
contribute to reducing theenvironmental impact of methane
emissions, but we provide ahealthy boost for our garden,
become more self-sufficient andsave space in the household bins
too.
Are there any negative impactsfrom using compost before it's
(17:01):
ready?
Unfortunately, there are.
Compost that is underdevelopedcan cause a range of issues,
including nutrient imbalance andthe introduction of pathogens
and weeds.
Immature compost may not have abalanced nutrient profile.
If the composting process isn'tcomplete, certain nutrients can
be tied up in the organicmatter and not readily available
(17:23):
to your plants.
This can lead to nutrientimbalances later, and it's
particularly undesirable ifyou're wanting to use the
compost in lieu of any storebought enhancers.
Using compost too early alsoincreases the likelihood of
introducing pathogens and weedsto your freshly prepared garden
bed.
These pathogens and unwantedguests would have otherwise been
(17:43):
left to reach high enoughtemperatures and die off with
the natural and complete cycleof a fully matured compost.
Can I compost citrus peels?
The short answer is yes, but itis important not to add too
much of these or a large amountat any one time.
Citrus peels are very acidic,so it's advisable to not only
add small amounts at a time, butbreak it up into smaller
(18:06):
portions as well.
These will spread them out moreevenly when you turn your
compost.
How can I prevent my compostpile from smelling bad?
The answer to this isessentially the same as,
following the practices we'vegone over, ensure a good balance
of green and brown materials,turn the pile regularly, manage
moisture levels and avoid addingmeat, dairy and greasy
(18:29):
materials.
Then I add worms to a regularcompost bin.
Most certainly, adding worms toyour home compost bin can
create a more dynamic andefficient system, but it's
entirely optional.
Traditional composting withoutadding worms can still yield
successful results.
If you have any questions orwould like to discuss this topic
(18:50):
or any other garden-relatedtopic, please connect with us
and many other gardenenthusiasts in our group on
Facebook, the Seed CollectionCommunity.
You've been listening to how IGrow, produced by the Seed
Collection in Melbourne,australia.
It's our aim to make gardeningmore accessible to more people,
and this podcast is one of themany ways in which we're doing
(19:11):
that.
If you don't already know whowe are, jump online and visit
wwwtheseedcollectioncomau.
You'll find a treasure trove ofgardening information, as well
as a huge range of seeds, gardensupplies and accessories.
That had us again iswwwtheseedcollectioncomau.
(19:34):
Thanks for listening.
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